Good time everyone!

In this post I want to share with you the process of creating a laser engraver based on a diode laser from China.

A few years ago I had a desire to buy myself ready-made option engraver from Aliexpress with a budget of 15 thousand, but after a long search I came to the conclusion that all the presented options are too simple and are essentially toys. But I wanted something tabletop and at the same time quite serious. After a month of research, it was decided to make this device with our own hands, and away we go...

At that moment I did not yet have a 3D printer and 3D modeling experience, but everything was fine with drawing)

Here is actually one of those ready-made engravers from China.

Having looked at the options possible designs mechanics, the first sketches of the future machine were made on a piece of paper..))

It was decided that the engraving area should be no smaller than an A3 sheet.

The laser module itself was one of the first to be purchased. Power 2W, since it was the most the best option for reasonable money.

Here is the laser module itself.

And so, it was decided that the X axis would travel along the Y axis and its design began. And it all started with the carriage...
The entire frame of the machine was made from aluminum profiles of various shapes, purchased from Leroy.

At this stage, sketches no longer appeared on notebook paper; everything was drawn and invented in the Compass.

Having bought 2 meters of a square profile 40x40 mm to build the frame of the machine, in the end only the carriage itself was made from it..))

Motors, linear bearings, belts, shafts and all electronics were ordered from Aliexpress during the development process and plans for how the motors would be mounted and what the control board would be changed along the way.

After a few days of drawing in Compass, a more or less clear version of the machine design was determined.

And so the X axis was born..))

Sidewalls of the Y axis (sorry for the photo quality).

Fitting.

And finally the first launch!

A simple 3D model was built general view machine in order to accurately determine its appearance and dimensions.

And off we go... Plexiglas... Painting, wiring and other little things.

And finally, when everything was adjusted and the last part was painted black, the finish line came!

Now some beautiful photos))

To make a laser engraver or CNC (computer numerical control) machine we will need:

DVD-ROM or CD-ROM
- Plywood 10 mm thick (6mm can be used)
- Wood screws 2.5 x 25 mm, 2.5 x 10 mm
- Arduino Uno (compatible boards can be used)
- Motor driver L9110S 2 pcs.
- Laser 1000 MW 405nm Blueviolet
- Analog joystick
- Button
- 5V power supply (I will use an old one, but it works computer unit food)
- Transistor TIP120 or TIP122
- Resistor 2.2 kOhm, 0.25 W
- Connecting wires
- Electric jigsaw
- Drill
- Wood drill bits 2mm, 3mm, 4mm
- Screw 4 mm x 20 mm
- Nuts and washers 4 mm
- Soldering iron
- Solder, rosin

Step 1 Disassemble the drives.
Any CD or DVD drive is suitable for the engraver. It is necessary to disassemble it and remove the internal mechanism, they come in different sizes:

It is necessary to remove all optics and the circuit board located on the mechanism:

You need to glue a table to one of the mechanisms. You can make a table from the same plywood by cutting out a square with a side of 80 mm. Or cut the same square from the CD/DVD-ROM case. Then the part you plan to engrave can be pressed with a magnet. After cutting out the square, glue it on:

To the second mechanism you need to glue a plate to which the laser will subsequently be attached. There are a lot of manufacturing options and it depends on what you have on hand. I used a plastic model plate. In my opinion, this is the most convenient option. I got the following:

Step 2 Making the body.
To make the body of our engraver we will use 10 mm thick plywood. If you don’t have it, you can take plywood of a smaller thickness, for example 6 mm, or replace the plywood with plastic. You need to print out the following photos and use these templates to cut out one bottom part, one top part and two side parts. In the places marked with a circle, make holes for self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3 mm.

After cutting you should get the following:

In the upper and lower parts you need to make 4 mm holes for fastening your drive parts. I can’t immediately mark these holes, as they are different:

When assembling, you must use 2.5 x 25 mm wood screws. In places where screws are screwed in, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a 2 mm drill. Otherwise the plywood may crack. If you intend to assemble the case from plastic, it is necessary to provide for connecting the parts with metal corners and use screws with a diameter of 3 mm. To give it an aesthetic appearance, our engraver should sand all the parts with fine sandpaper; if desired, they can be painted. I like black, I spray painted all the parts black.

Step 3 Prepare the power supply.
To power the engraver, you need a 5 volt power supply with a current of at least 1.5 amperes. I will use an old computer power supply. Cut off all the pads. To start the power supply, you need to short-circuit the green (PC_ON) and black (GND) wires. You can put a switch between these wires for convenience, or you can simply twist them together and use the power supply switch, if there is one.

To connect the load, we output red (+5), yellow (+12) and black (GND) wires. Purple (standby +5) can output a maximum of 2 amps or less, depending on the power supply. There is voltage on it even with the green and black wires open.

For convenience, we glue the engraver to the power supply with double-sided tape.

Step 4 Joystick for manual control.
To set the initial engraving position we will use the analog joystick and button. We place everything on the circuit board and bring out the wires to connect to the Arduino. Screw it to the body:

We connect according to the following diagram:

Out X - pin A4 Arduino Out Y - pin A5 Arduino Out Sw – pin 3 Arduino Vcc - +5 Power supply Gnd – Gnd Arduino

Step 5 Place the electrics.
We will place all the electrics behind our engraver. We fasten the Arduino Uno and the motor driver with 2.5 x 10 mm self-tapping screws. We connect as follows:

We connect the wires from the stepper motor along the X axis (table) to the outputs of the L9110S motor driver. Further like this:
B-IA – pin 7 B-IB – pin 6 A-IA – pin 5 A-IB – pin 4 Vcc - +5 from power supply GND - GND

We connect the wires from the stepper motor along the Y axis (laser) to the outputs of the L9110S motor driver. Further like this:
B-IA – pin 12 B-IB – pin 11 A-IA – pin 10 A-IB – pin 9 Vcc - +5 from power supply GND – GND

If, upon first start-up, the engines hum but do not move, it is worth swapping the screwed wires from the engines.

Don't forget to connect:
+5 from Arduino - +5 power supply GND Arduino – GND Power supply

Step 6 Install the laser.
The Internet is full of diagrams and instructions for making a laser from a laser diode from a DVD-Rom writer. This process is long and complicated. Therefore, I bought a ready-made laser with a driver and a cooling radiator. This greatly simplifies the laser engraver manufacturing process. The laser consumes up to 500 mA, so it cannot be connected directly to the Arduino. We will connect the laser through a TIP120 or TIP122 transistor.

A 2.2 kOm resistor must be included in the gap between the Base of the transistor and pin 2 of the Arduino.

Base – R 2.2 kOm – pin 2 Arduino Collector – GND Laser (black wire) Emitter – GND (Common power supply) +5 laser (red wire) - +5 power supply

There are not many connections here, so we solder everything by weight, insulate it and screw the transistor to the back of the case:

To firmly fix the laser, it is necessary to cut another plate from the same plastic as the plate glued to the Y axis. We fasten the laser cooling radiator to it with the screws included in the laser kit:

We insert the laser inside the radiator and secure it with the screws also included in the laser kit:

And we screw this whole structure onto our engraver:

Step 7 Wednesday Arduino programming IDE.
You should download and install the Arduino IDE. The best way to do this is from the official project.

The latest version at the time of writing the instructions is ARDUINO 1.8.5. No additional libraries are required. You should connect the Arduino Uno to your computer and upload the following sketch into it:

After filling in the sketch, you should check that the engraver is working as it should.

Attention! A laser is not a toy! A laser beam, even unfocused, even reflected, damages the retina when it enters the eye. I highly recommend purchasing safety glasses! And all testing and adjustment work is carried out only in protective glasses. You should also not watch the laser during the engraving process without glasses.

Turn on the power. When the position of the joystick changes forward or backward, the table should move, and the Y axis, that is, the laser, should move left to right. When you press the button, the laser should turn on.

Next, you need to adjust the laser focus. We put on safety glasses! Place a small sheet of paper on the table and press the button. By changing the position of the lens (we rotate the lens), we find the position at which the laser point on the sheet is minimal.

Step 8 Preparing Processing.
To transfer the image to the engraver we will use the Processing programming environment. Need to download from official

Our ancestors were engaged in stone processing in ancient times. This culture has survived to this day, but working with this material has become much easier and more convenient, thanks to innovations and modern machines. A desktop laser engraver for stone makes your work easier and allows you to make clear drawings on any type of stone.

A laser machine is a convenient and quick way apply any image to the stone, thanks to which you can make a pattern of any complexity, even those that you cannot create with your own hands. With the help of an engraving printer you can open your own profitable business. But how much does such a machine cost, and what models are popular?

Stone engraving machine

Today, many companies produce good quality laser machines. Each of them has its pros and cons. The table describes the models the best manufacturers and prices.

These are the most popular models that allow you to start your own business providing services related to stone engraving. But not everyone has the opportunity to purchase such equipment right away; in this case, you can start your own business with a machine made by yourself. Laser engraver, made from a printer with your own hands - this is The best way start a business with minimal investment.

How to make an engraver from a printer?

Make engraving machine from an old printer is not difficult at all. detailed instructions will help you figure everything out. But first you need to prepare all the necessary details:

• 3 studs from a hardware store;
• aluminum U-profile;
• 2 bearings;
• a piece of plexiglass;
• nuts of regular size and long;
• 3 stepper motors, they can be borrowed from an old printer.

In addition to this, you need to have the following tools on hand: a hacksaw, drill, jigsaw, bolts, screws, screwdrivers and other tools. The only thing that will need to be done outside the house is to weld the base for the machine, although it can also be made with a bolt-on mounting. Instructions on how to make a laser printer at home with your own hands are described in the table below.

No.	Stages of machine manufacturing
1.	The manufacture of the machine begins with fastening the lead screw and profile. The latter is used as a kind of sled.
	The bearings are fixed using heat shrink, and soft plastic - an ordinary paper folder - is perfect for tightening. TO lead screw attach a plate in the shape of the letter “P” with a bolt; it is necessary for fastening the X-axis plane.
	The motor on the X-axis is attached with lengths of studs. The axle is fixed with an adapter and a piece of rubber hose. It is screwed onto the running axle on one side, and the other end is fixed in the adapter.
4.	It is also very convenient and easy to mount the engine to the frame.
5.	We make the platform from plexiglass, on which it is necessary to place a limiter made of a profile and a pressure roller. The area should be the size of the working area of ​​the machine.
6.	The Y axis is assembled identically to the X axis, the only difference is in the motor mounting, it must be attached to the X axis.
	Correctly assembling the Y axis is not difficult, because it almost follows all the contours of the X axis, but only the pressure rollers must be fixed in front. The self-made engraving machine in this model can be an ordinary household Dremel. You can attach it using plexiglass.

So the DIY desktop laser engraving machine is ready. Now all that remains is to connect it using limit switches. This homemade device allows you to carve stone at home, but does not allow you to cut it.

What stones can be engraved on?

Not every stone can be processed with an engraving machine; dark ones are best suited for engraving. natural materials, such as:

• granite;
• marble;
• white marble.

Engraving on snow-white marble looks especially beautiful, since the machine is capable of producing a continuous white stone inscription or pattern, and the result is very beautiful. Laser engraving can be compared to glass frosting. After all, using such a machine it will not be possible to make a deep inscription, since the beam is capable of melting the material, and in the end result the work is almost invisible. The best effect of the machine is obtained on surfaces in shades of gray.

But as soon as you manage to earn money for a good machine, it’s worth purchasing it if you have the prospect of continuing to work in this field. Professional machines allow you to create an image quickly, accurately and accurately, this even applies to the smallest details. Thanks to the laser engraver professional level it is possible to achieve excellent resemblance to the photographic source. A professional machine, even a desktop one, is capable of applying an inscription of any font and size, so it is convenient and practical.

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Starting your own business with a homemade engraver is convenient and inexpensive, but in the future, in order to satisfy all the needs and desires of your clients, you will still have to purchase modern model engraver, albeit inexpensive. This way, your business will flourish and pay for itself in a short time. By learning to create masterpieces on stone with your own hands, you will make a good reputation for yourself, and clients will come to you with orders.

In contact with

Sometimes you need to sign a gift beautifully, but it’s not clear how to do it. The paint spreads and wears off quickly, a marker is not an option. Engraving is best suited for this. You don’t even have to spend money on it, since anyone who knows how to solder can make a laser engraver from a printer with their own hands.

Design and principle of operation

The main element of the engraver is a semiconductor laser. It emits a focused and very bright beam of light that burns through the material being processed. By adjusting the radiation power, you can change the depth and speed of burning.

The laser diode is based on a semiconductor crystal, on top and bottom of which there are P and N regions. Electrodes are connected to them, through which current is supplied. Between these regions there is a P - N junction.

Compared to a regular laser diode, it looks like a giant: its crystal can be examined in detail with the naked eye.

The values ​​can be deciphered as follows:

1. P (positive) area.
2. P - N transition.
3. N (negative) area.

The ends of the crystal are polished to perfection, so it works as an optical resonator. Electrons, flowing from a positively charged region to a negative one, excite photons in the P-N junction. Reflecting from the walls of the crystal, each photon generates two similar ones, which, in turn, also divide, and so on ad infinitum. The chain reaction occurring in a semiconductor laser crystal is called the pumping process. The more energy is supplied to the crystal, the more it is pumped into laser ray. In theory, you can saturate it indefinitely, but in practice everything is different.

During operation, the diode heats up and must be cooled. If you constantly increase the power supplied to the crystal, sooner or later there will come a time when the cooling system can no longer cope with heat removal and the diode will burn out.

The power of laser diodes usually does not exceed 50 Watts. Above this value, it becomes difficult to make an effective cooling system, so high-power diodes are extremely expensive to produce.

There are semiconductor lasers of 10 kilowatts or more, but they are all composite. Their optical resonator is pumped by low-power diodes, the number of which can reach several hundred.

Compound lasers are not used in engravers because their power is too high.

Creating a laser engraver

For simple work, like burning patterns on wood, you don’t need complex and expensive devices. A homemade laser engraver powered by a battery will be sufficient.

Before making an engraver, you need to prepare the following parts for its assembly:

Remove the write head from the DVD drive.

Carefully remove the focusing lens and disassemble the head housing until you see 2 lasers hidden in heat-distributing casings.

One of them is infrared, for reading information from the disk. The second one, red, is the writing one. In order to distinguish them, apply a voltage of 3 volts to their terminals.

Pinout:

Be sure to wear dark glasses before testing. Never test the laser by looking at the diode window. You only need to look at the reflection of the beam.

You need to select the laser that lights up. You can throw away the rest if you don’t know where to use it. To protect against static, solder all leads of the diode together and set it aside. Saw off a 15 cm section from the profile. Drill a hole in it for the clock button. Make cutouts in the box for the profile, charging socket and switch.

The schematic diagram of a DIY DVD laser engraver looks like this:

Tin the contact pads on the charge control board and holder:

Using wires to pins B+ and B- of the charge controller, solder the battery compartment. Contacts + and - go to the socket, the remaining 2 go to the laser diode. First, solder the laser power supply circuit by surface mounting and insulate it well with tape.

Make sure that the terminals of the radio components do not short circuit with each other. Solder a laser diode and a button to the power supply circuit. Place the assembled device in the profile and glue the laser with heat-conducting glue. Secure the remaining parts with double-sided tape. Reinstall the tact button.

Insert the profile into the box, bring out the wires and secure it with hot glue. Solder the switch and install it. Do the same procedure with the charging socket. Using a hot glue gun, glue the battery compartment and charge controller into place. Insert the battery into the holder and close the box with the lid.

Before using it, you need to set up the laser. To do this, place a sheet of paper 10 centimeters from it, which will be a target for the laser beam. Place the focusing lens in front of the diode. By moving it further and closer, achieve a burn through the target. Glue the lens to the profile in the place where the greatest effect was achieved.

The assembled engraver is perfect for small jobs and entertainment purposes such as lighting matches and burning balloons.

Remember that the engraver is not a toy and should not be given to children. The laser beam, if it comes into contact with the eyes, causes irreversible consequences, so keep the device out of the reach of children.

CNC device manufacturing

For large volumes of work, a conventional engraver will not cope with the load. If you are going to use it frequently and a lot, you will need a CNC device.

Assembling the interior

You can even make a laser engraver at home. To do this, you need to remove the stepper motors and guides from the printer. They will drive the laser.

Full list necessary details as follows:

Connection diagram for all components:

View from above:

Explanation of symbols:

1. Semiconductor laser with heatsink.
2. Carriage.
3. X-axis guides.
4. Pressure rollers.
5. Stepper motor.
6. Drive gear.
7. Toothed belt.
8. Guide fastenings.
9. Gears.
10. Stepper motors.
11. Sheet metal base.
12. Y axis guides.
13. X-axis carriages.
14. Toothed belts.
15. Mounting supports.
16. Limit switches.

Measure the length of the guides and divide them into two groups. The first will contain 4 short ones, the second - 2 long ones. Guides from the same group must be the same length.

Add 10 centimeters to the length of each group of guides and cut the base to the resulting dimensions. Bend U-shaped supports for fastenings from scraps and weld them to the base. Mark and drill holes for the bolts.

Drill a hole in the radiator and glue the laser in there using heat-conducting glue. Solder the wires and transistor to it. Bolt the radiator to the carriage.

Install the guide rail mounts onto the two supports and secure them with bolts. Insert the Y-axis guides into the mounts, put the X-axis carriages on their free ends. Insert the remaining guides with the laser head installed on them. Place the fasteners on the Y-axis guides and screw them to the supports.

Drill holes in the places where the electric motors and gear axles are mounted. Reinstall the stepper motors and place the drive gears on their shafts. Insert pre-cut axles from a metal rod into the holes and secure them with epoxy glue. After it hardens, place the gears and pressure rollers with bearings inserted into them onto the axles.

Install the timing belts as shown in the diagram. Pull them tight before fastening. Check the mobility of the X-axis and laser head. They should move with little effort, rotating all the rollers and gears through the belts.

Connect wires to the laser, motors and end switches and tie them together with zip ties. Place the resulting bundles in movable cable channels and secure them to the carriages.

Lead the ends of the wires out.

Case manufacturing

Drill holes in the base for the corners. Step back 2 centimeters from its edges and draw a rectangle.

Its width and length repeat the dimensions of the future body. The height of the case must be such that all internal mechanisms fit into it.

Explanation of symbols:

1. Loops.
2. Tact button (start/stop).
3. Arduino power switch.
4. Laser switch.
5. 2.1 x 5.5 mm socket for supplying 5 V power.
6. Protective box for DC-DC inverter.
7. Wires.
8. Arduino protective box.
9. Housing fastenings.
10. Corners.
11. Base.
12. Legs made of non-slip material.
13. Lid.

Cut out all the body parts from plywood and fasten them with corners. Using the hinges, install the cover on the body and screw it to the base. Cut a hole in the front wall and insert the wires through it.

Assemble from plywood protective covers and cut holes in them for buttons, switches and sockets. Place the Arduino in the housing so that the USB connector matches the hole provided for it. Set the DC-DC converter to a voltage of 3 V at a current of 2 A. Secure it in the housing.

Reinstall the button, power socket, switches and solder the electrical circuit of the engraver together. After soldering all the wires, install the casings on the case and screw them with self-tapping screws. For the engraver to work, you need to upload the firmware to the Arduino.

After flashing the firmware, turn on the engraver and press the “Start” button. Leave the laser turned off. Pressing the button will start the calibration process, during which the microcontroller will measure and remember the length of all axes and determine the position of the laser head. After its completion, the engraver will be completely ready for work.

Before you start working with the engraver, you need to convert the images into a format understandable for Arduino. This can be done using the Inkscape Laserengraver program. Move the selected image into it and click on Convert. Send the resulting file via cable to the Arduino and start the printing process, turning on the laser first.

Such an engraver can only process objects consisting of organic substances: wood, plastic, fabrics, paint and varnish coatings, and others. Metals, glass and ceramics cannot be engraved on it.

Never turn on the engraver with open lid. The laser beam, entering the eyes, concentrates on the retina, damaging it. Reflexively closing your eyelids will not save you - the laser will have time to burn out an area of ​​the retina even before they close. You may not feel anything, but over time the retina will begin to peel off, which can lead to complete or partial loss of vision.

If you catch a laser “bunny”, contact an ophthalmologist as soon as possible - this will help avoid serious problems in the future.

In this article we will look at how to assemble a laser engraver with your own hands. Of course, you can buy it at Chinese market, but this way we will save money and if something happens we will be able to repair such a device.

If you want to work with metals, then the laser must be more than 80 watts, but we will assemble a weaker version - 40 watts.

There are various laser tubes of this power available for sale, their length ranges from 70 to 160 centimeters.

We will also need a 40 Watt CO2 laser tube power source.

Green control board.

Laser engraver lenses and O-rings.

Stepper motors on X and Y axis

Infrared breaker board.

Pressed aluminum profile size 30x30 mm.

The required amount of aluminum profile.

900 mm x 4 pcs. = 3600 mm.

730 mm x 4 pieces = 2920 mm.

610 mm x 2 pieces = 1220 mm.

500 mm x 8 pcs = 4000 mm.

470 mm x 2 pieces = 940 mm.

200 mm x 2 pcs = 400 mm.

170 mm x 2 pieces = 340 mm.

120 mm x 2 pieces = 240 mm.

90 mm x 2 pcs = 180 mm.

As a result, we will need 13840 mm of aluminum profile for our laser machine.

Also don't forget to buy bolts for fastening.

In order for our engraving machine to move, we will need 4 wheels, measuring 20mm x 20mm x 640 mm.

For X axis 640 mm rail.

This is how the laser head will move along the Y axis

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DIY laser engraver: materials, assembly, software installation

Many of those home craftsmen who in their workshop are engaged in the manufacture and decorative design products made of wood and other materials, you have probably thought about how to make a laser engraver with your own hands. The presence of such equipment, the serial models of which are quite expensive, makes it possible not only to apply the most complex designs to the surface of the workpiece with high precision and detail, but also to carry out laser cutting various materials.

Homemade laser machine in the process of wood engraving

A homemade laser engraver, which will cost much less than a serial model, can be made even if you do not have in-depth knowledge of electronics and mechanics. The laser engraver of the proposed design is assembled on the Arduino hardware platform and has a power of 3 W, while for industrial models this parameter is at least 400 W. However, even such low power allows the use this device for cutting products made of polystyrene foam, cork sheets, plastic and cardboard, as well as performing high-quality laser engraving.

This engraver can also handle thin plastic.

Necessary materials

In order to make your own laser engraver using Arduino, you will need the following: Consumables, mechanisms and tools:

• hardware platform Arduino R3;
• Proto Board equipped with a display;
• stepper motors, which can be used as electric motors from a printer or DVD player;
• laser with a power of 3 W;
• laser cooling device;
• voltage regulator direct current DC-DC;
• MOSFET transistor;
• electronic boards that control the laser engraver motors;
• limit switches;
• a housing in which you can place all the structural elements of a homemade engraver;
• timing belts and pulleys for their installation;
• ball bearings of various sizes;
• four wooden boards(two of them with dimensions 135x10x2 cm, and the other two – 125x10x2 cm);
• four round metal rods with a diameter of 10 mm;
• bolts, nuts and screws;
• lubricant;
• clamps;
• computer;
• drills of various diameters;
• a circular saw;
• sandpaper;
• vice;
• standard set of locksmith tools.

The electronic part of the machine will require the greatest investment

Electrical part of a homemade laser engraver

The main element of the electrical circuit of the presented device is a laser emitter, the input of which must be supplied constant pressure with a value not exceeding the permissible parameters. If this requirement is not met, the laser may simply burn out. The laser emitter used in the engraving installation of the presented design is designed for a voltage of 5 V and a current not exceeding 2.4 A, therefore the DC-DC regulator must be configured for a current of 2 A and a voltage of up to 5 V.

Electrical circuit of the engraver

The MOSFET transistor, which is the most important element of the electrical part of a laser engraver, is necessary in order to turn the laser emitter on and off when receiving a signal from the Arduino controller. The electrical signal generated by the controller is very weak, so only a MOSFET transistor can sense it and then unlock and close the laser power circuit. IN electrical diagram For a laser engraver, such a transistor is installed between the positive contact of the laser and the negative contact of the DC regulator.

The laser engraver's stepper motors are connected through one electronic control board, which ensures their synchronous operation. Thanks to this connection, timing belts driven by multiple motors do not sag and maintain a stable tension during operation, which ensures the quality and accuracy of the processing performed.

It should be kept in mind that the laser diode used in a homemade engraving machine should not overheat.

To do this, it is necessary to ensure its effective cooling. This problem can be solved quite simply: a regular one is installed next to the diode. computer fan. To prevent overheating of stepper motor control boards, computer coolers are also placed next to them, since conventional radiators cannot cope with this task.

Photos of the electrical circuit assembly process

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Build process

The homemade engraving machine of the proposed design is a shuttle-type device, one of the moving elements of which is responsible for movement along the Y axis, and the other two, paired, for movement along the X axis. For the Z axis, which is also specified in the parameters of such a 3D printer, the depth to which the material being processed is burned is taken. The depth of the holes into which the elements of the shuttle mechanism of the laser engraver are installed must be at least 12 mm.

Desk frame - dimensions and tolerances

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Aluminum rods with a diameter of at least 10 mm can act as guide elements along which the working head of a laser engraving device will move. If it is not possible to find aluminum rods, steel guides of the same diameter can be used for these purposes. The need to use rods of exactly this diameter is explained by the fact that in this case the working head of the laser engraving device will not sag.

Manufacturing of a movable carriage

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3

The surface of the rods that will be used as guide elements for the laser engraving device must be cleaned of factory grease and carefully ground to perfect smoothness. Then they should be coated with a lubricant based on white lithium, which will improve the sliding process.

Installation stepper motors on the body of a homemade engraving device is carried out using brackets made of sheet metal. To make such a bracket, a sheet of metal whose width approximately corresponds to the width of the engine itself, and the length of which is twice the length of its base, is bent at a right angle. On the surface of such a bracket, where the base of the electric motor will be located, 6 holes are drilled, 4 of which are necessary for fixing the engine itself, and the remaining two are for attaching the bracket to the body using ordinary self-tapping screws.

To install a drive mechanism consisting of two pulleys, a washer and a bolt on the electric motor shaft, a piece of metal sheet appropriate size. To mount such a unit, a U-shaped profile is formed from a metal sheet, in which holes are drilled for attaching it to the engraver body and for the output of the electric motor shaft. The pulleys on which the timing belts will be placed are mounted on the shaft of the drive electric motor and placed in the inner part of the U-shaped profile. Toothed belts mounted on pulleys, which should drive the shuttles of the engraving device, are connected to their wooden bases using self-tapping screws.

Installation of stepper motors

Photo-1 Photo-2 Photo-3
Photo-4 Photo-5 Photo-6

Software installation

Your laser grower, which must operate in automatic mode, will require not only installation, but also configuration of special software. The most important element of such support is a program that allows you to create the contours of the desired design and convert them into an extension that is understandable to the control elements of the laser engraver. This program is freely available and can be downloaded to your computer without any problems.

The program downloaded to the computer controlling the engraving device is unpacked from the archive and installed. In addition, you will need a library of contours, as well as a program that will send data on the created drawing or inscription to the Arduino controller. Such a library (as well as a program for transferring data to the controller) can also be found in the public domain. In order for your laser homemade product to work correctly, and for the engraving performed with its help to be of high quality, you will need to configure the controller itself to the parameters of the engraving device.

Features of using contours

If you have already figured out the question of how to make a hand-held laser engraver, then it is necessary to clarify the question of the parameters of the contours that can be applied using such a device. Such contours inner part which are not filled even if the original drawing is painted over, must be transferred to the engraver controller as files not in pixel (jpeg), but in vector format. This means that the image or inscription applied to the surface of the processed product using such an engraver will not consist of pixels, but of dots. Such images and inscriptions can be scaled as desired, focusing on the surface area on which they should be applied.

Using a laser engraver, almost any design and inscription can be applied to the surface of the workpiece, but to do this, their computer layouts must be converted into vector format. This procedure is not difficult to perform: special programs Inkscape or Adobe Illustrator are used for this. A file that has already been converted to vector format must be converted again so that it can be correctly processed by the engraving machine controller. For this conversion, the Inkscape Laserengraver program is used.

Final setup and preparation for work

Having made a laser engraving machine with your own hands and downloaded the necessary software into its control computer, do not start working right away: the equipment needs final configuration and adjustment. What is this adjustment? First of all, you need to make sure that the maximum movements of the machine's laser head along the X and Y axes coincide with the values ​​​​obtained when converting the vector file. In addition, depending on the thickness of the material from which the workpiece is made, it is necessary to adjust the parameters of the current supplied to the laser head. This should be done in order not to burn through the product on the surface of which you want to engrave.

A very important and responsible process is fine tuning (adjustment) of the laser head. Alignment is needed to adjust the power and resolution of the beam produced by the laser head of your engraver. On expensive serial models of laser engraving machines, adjustment is performed using an additional low-power laser installed in the main working head. However, in homemade engravers, as a rule, inexpensive laser heads are used, so this method of fine-tuning the beam is not suitable for them.

Test your DIY laser engraver on simple drawings first

Sufficiently high-quality adjustment of a homemade laser engraver can be performed using an LED extracted from laser pointer. The LED wires are connected to a 3 V power source, and the LED itself is fixed to the working end of a standard laser. By alternately turning on and adjusting the position of the beams emanating from the test LED and the laser head, they achieve their alignment at one point. The convenience of using an LED from a laser pointer is that adjustment can be performed with its help without the risk of harm to both the hands and eyes of the operator of the engraving machine.

The video shows the process of connecting the engraver to the computer, setting up the software and preparing the machine for work.

Nice things with your own hands

As a high school student with an engineering background, I was tasked with creating an independent project. I decided to design and make a laser engraver with my own hands. See for yourself what came of it.

Using the Inverntor program, I created the design of the engraver, and subsequently all the parts that I later printed on a 3-D printer.

This was my first time using a 3D printer and I was surprised at how well it worked. I used to think that 3D printing was useless, but this turned out not to be the case.

The metal rods serve as the y-axis, while the entire structure slides along the x-axis. Metal bearings are lubricated with oil to reduce friction.

I made a laser heatsink by hand from aluminum and cooling fins from an old computer. This part contains the laser diode and slides along the y-axis.

I purchased a 2W 440nM laser diode, and I also need a driver and lens. The total cost was $100.

We install the stepper motor and belt to move along the y-axis.

Before mounting, make sure that the carriage slides smoothly along the x and y axis.

In this photo you can see the stepper motor responsible for moving along the x-axis. To keep the design simple, I only used 2 motors and 2 belts.

I wasn't sure if the belt and motor alone would be enough to move the x-axis, but luckily it was enough.

Having connected the motors to the Arduino controller, I checked the movement on each axis.

I tried engraving "Hello World!"

The walls of the engraver are made of white board; the holes were cut out using a laser cutter. To extract smoke from the engraver body, I installed a computer fan.

The scheme is quite formidable. In this photo, from left to right, the Arduino controller, voltage regulator, driver for the laser and stepper motor, and power supply are connected.

This wooden platform covers the electronics and also serves as a stand for the material to be engraved on.

All that remains is a protective case to protect the user from harmful laser radiation.

The flip-up lid is made of orange acrylic, which is designed to block ultraviolet light. I found that acrylic was able to block the blue laser beam.

The finished engraver looks quite professional.

Laser engraver at work.

View the engraving process through a fan.

Here is the result compared to the original. The engraver works much better with solid colors.

The most successful engraving.

You can cut out parts from balsa wood and paper, I think this will be useful when modeling airplanes, ships, and the like. The cutting process occurs at lower speeds compared to engraving.

Finished gear. Thank you for your attention!

DIY laser engraver - an affordable solution for the home workshop

Lasers have long been part of our everyday life. Guides use light pointers, builders use a beam to set the levels. The ability of a laser to heat materials (up to thermal destruction) is used for cutting and decorative design.

One application is laser engraving. On various materials You can get fine patterns with virtually no restrictions on complexity.

Wooden surfaces are great for burning. Engravings on backlit plexiglass are especially appreciated.


There is a wide selection of engraving machines on sale, mostly made in China. The equipment is not too expensive, however, buying just for fun is not advisable. It is much more interesting to make a laser engraver with your own hands.

It is only necessary to obtain a laser with a power of several W and create a frame system of movement in two coordinate axes.

DIY laser engraving machine

Laser gun - not the best complex element designs, and there are options. Depending on the tasks, you can choose different power (according to the cost, up to free purchase). Craftsmen from the Middle Kingdom offer various ready-made designs, sometimes made with high quality.


With such a 2W gun you can even cut plywood. The ability to focus at the required distance allows you to control both the width of the engraving and the depth of penetration (for 3D drawings).

Price similar device about 5-6 thousand rubles. If high power is not needed, use a low-power laser from a DVD burner, which can be purchased for pennies on the radio market.

There are quite workable solutions, production will take one day off

There is no need to explain how to remove the laser semiconductor from the drive, if you know how to “do things” with your hands, it is not difficult. The main thing is to choose a durable and comfortable case. In addition, a “combat” laser, albeit low-power, requires cooling. In the case of a DVD drive, a passive heatsink is sufficient.

The body-handle can be made from two brass cartridges from a pistol. Spent cartridges from TT and PM are suitable. They have a slight difference in caliber and fit together perfectly.

We drill out the capsules and install a laser diode in place of one of them. The brass sleeve will serve as an excellent radiator.


All that remains is to connect 12 volt power, for example, from the USB port of your computer. There is enough power, the drive in the computer is powered from the same power supply. That's all, do-it-yourself laser engraving at home from practically trash.


If you need coordinate machine– you can attach the burning element to the finished positioning device.

A laser engraver from a printer with a dried out ink head is a great way to bring life back to a broken unit.

Work a little with feeding the workpiece instead of paper (for flat plywood or a metal plate is not a problem), and you practically have a factory engraver. Software may not be needed - the driver from the printer is used.

Once you have the circuit, you simply connect the ink signal to the laser input and “print” on solid materials.

Homemade laser engraver for working with large areas

Any drawing for assembling the so-called KIT sets from the same Chinese friends.


Finding an aluminum profile is not a problem; making carriages with wheels is also not a problem. A ready-made laser module is installed on one of them, the other pair of carriages will move the guide truss. The movement is set by stepper motors, the torque is transmitted using toothed belts.


It is better to assemble the structure inside a box with active ventilation. The acrid smoke released during engraving is harmful to health. When used indoors, exhaust to the street is required.

Important! When operating a laser of this power, safety precautions must be observed.

Short-term exposure to human skin causes severe burns.

If you are working with metal plates, the reflected glare from the beam can damage the retina. The best protection red plexiglass will serve. This will neutralize the blue laser beam and allow you to monitor the process in real time.


The control circuit is assembled on any programmable controller. The most popular Arduino systems UNO, sold on the same Chinese electronics websites. The solution is inexpensive, but effective and almost universal.


The most common option is connecting to a personal computer. The creation of a design and engraving parameters takes place using any standard graphics editor.

Important! Please remember that most controllers are Arduino based work only with vector images.

If your image is raster, you should trace it.

By connecting and programming the USB controller, you will be able to output an engraving task directly from digital media (flash drive), having previously created a file on the computer.
Result:

A laser head engraving machine is so affordable that it can be purchased not only for commercial use but also for personal use.

Making crafts for children, saving on advertising materials for your own company, design items for your home - this is an incomplete list of uses for the machine.

And a self-made installation will delight you at minimal cost.

DIY laser engraver from a DVD drive - video instructions

The goal of the project: to create a low-power laser engraver (presumably 5 watts) using improvised means.

An example of a similar project:

Available means are expected to be used:

— guides from an inkjet printer. Epson R220 printer. There is another scanner and another inkjet printer on the way. So there should be enough motors, guides, harnesses, etc.

— motors and harnesses/belts are also from an inkjet printer.

— a metal base and other parts to create the frame of the engraver (some from computer cases, some from leftovers from printers/scanners).

— various radiators for cooling boards (in assortment).

— coolers for cooling/exhaust, etc. (in assortment).

— a netbook with software for transferring images to the machine.

- power supply from a regular computer. There is also a cable from the laptop with a 12 volt/5 ampere power supply. Will the built-in power supply from the printer work?

— clamps, cogs, bolts and other small items for fasteners.

Purchased parts are expected to be used:

- brains. Most likely an Ardruino UNO with A3967 or TB6560 drivers (some recommended the TB6560 board, like it has better software (I don’t know)).

— laser. Perhaps 5 watts on aliexpress or more if the design allows.

Project stage: collection of information and components.

Total hardware needed:

1. 2(3?) motors from an inkjet printer with belts and guides.

2. 3 light alloy profiles for X axis design.

3. 4 profiles for the base frame and Y-axis mounting.

4. 2 drivers A3967 or TB6560.

5. one Ardruino NANO or UNO board.

6. Power supply from a computer or laptop (12v/5a).

7. 3 cooling radiators - 2 for drivers, 1 for board.

8. synchronization cable with the computer.

9. laser with cooling (radiator + cooler).

Need advice on motor power and how to make their work easier. Although if he moves a carriage with a whole set of ink vigorously, then why can’t he cope (along the X axis) with a laser and its radiator? The question here is rather whether the engines can cope with the Y axis. Maybe it would be better to take the engines from the scanner for Y? And in general, how powerful should the engines be (inside and out) for normal movement along the axes?

Also need some electrical advice. Are the “brains” I listed powered by 12 volts? Will the power supply from the computer be enough for them? Where will the laser be connected for power supply? Yes, there will be a lot of clarifications, for sure. I will add/duplicate the main post as the project progresses.

P.S. Please do not write off-topic stuff like “this won’t fly.” Does the engraver work in the video? It means someone took off.

P.S.S. I'll add it as the play progresses if I forgot something.

At this rate efficient And very useful advice and criticism will have time to come up with another similar printer and scanner, and there are already boards and other things there, if you order them from China, and by Russian post.

Knowledge of electronics will allow you to create a simple circuit yourself and more experience in soldering. If I knew everything about engines, and about which ardruino would be better to install, then I wouldn’t even register here, because why would I need advice. Logical? I have no experience with Ardruino or the like, because until now I didn’t see much point in them, because... most of the DIY projects were either quadcopters or dancing robots, which I'm not particularly interested in.

And now to the point:

1. “Not from but for.” The essence of the project is just the opposite (well, this is so, I’ll explain, for those who don’t read well). Those. to prove in practice that something useful can be assembled from scrap old equipment. So exactly FROM and FOR!

2. If not Ardruino, then what? Can you describe in more detail what to take in terms of filling?

3. There are different sets and Nema 17 sounds like “that chick over there, but not that one, but the one on the left.” The parts have their own designations, names, and articles. The same Nema 17 is not one position, as I understand it. There are 0.6 amperes, and there are 1.7.

I described everything that seemed necessary for an engraver above and even asked me to add to the list if I missed anything.

ABOUT! Invented! If the concept is so difficult to understand, then you can full list(slats, guides, dumb 17ths, “brains”, harnesses, etc.). But only detailed list. If there is a link to such a topic, then it can be a link. Then I will remove everything I already have from this list and draw up a general price list.

P.S. Yes. I forgot to take a photo of the power supply from the computer, but I hope everyone knows what it looks like. And regarding the size of the surface being treated. Well, in theory A4 would not be bad. I think that the scanner sets the size here.

3. And why is TB6560 better than A3967?

Find the datasheets for both and compare - they’ll google right away, especially since the TB6560DRV2 is in Russian, although I took these trinkets for experiments with children (I myself am a supporter of normal drivers, not cheap ones) I didn’t need the startup instructions, because everything important is on the drivers themselves. At least for the latter, the operating current is only up to 750 mA (the peak is a little more), and for the former - up to 3 A, there is a difference in the maximum operating power.

You didn't mention your level of knowledge. If you have a low level of understanding of electronics, you should not take on this project.

Mentioned and precisely stated:

how many amperes should they be in power?

Absolutely zero if the power is in amperes. So soon the distance will be measured in liters. Although such a parameter as power is NOT a characteristic of stepper motors at all. The level of understanding of electronics is two meters below the baseboard. Another writer, not a reader.

Arduino ftopka. Forever.

It’s far from a fact - such as in the first video post, “devices” are made on an Arduino, especially since there is software for it, and ready-made solutions, even here on the forum a similar thing on the Arduino was presented and even breathed, but again the AFFtor is too lazy to look for it - he’s a writer. It's easier for him to ask.

Knowledge of electronics will allow you to create a simple circuit yourself and more experience in soldering. If I knew everything about engines, and about which ardruino would be better to install, then I wouldn’t even register here, because why would I need advice. Logical?

Well, yes - a consumer approach that is logical for today’s young people: I have an itch, and here on the forum everyone is obliged to help me, otherwise what is it created for, otherwise all the goats and so on, so on, including “revolution, blah”, because to me I’m too lazy to search, and if I knew, then why would I need a forum, because sharing knowledge myself is fig. And in fact:

Why does everyone so sacredly believe that rays of bright knowledge should emanate from old-timers, penetrating completely black heads? Whoever searches will find. Whoever correctly formulates the question will receive either an answer or a link to the answer (if it was discussed before). And reproaching everyone for “beating an amateur” is a situation discussed in the immortal work of Ilf and Petrov. And it’s not a matter of boredom or the notorious trolling. It's up to each person asking. And note. from many of the “trolls” gloating here, answers very regularly pop up that cost MONEY. Read the forum carefully. There are very, very competent thoughts on organization and on methods, methods, repairs, equipment. The whole question is what someone sees It’s just shit, but someone understands irony. So these are also internal problems of the readers. Therefore, there is no need to act offended and go into someone else’s monastery with your own rules. It has its own atmosphere. If you understand, come. If not, come on in.

To begin with, I would recommend that you read this. or more full cycle articles by this author “One step, two steps. “, but there are “many letters”. Then after this the questions about steppers and their drivers will not be so stupid, and if you understand the article/articles, they will become to the point.

motors and harnesses/belts are also from an inkjet printer.

From what is right here and now there is a printer:

And in the photo there is an Epson photoR220, which has NOT a stepper on the carriage drive, but brushed motor, which, together with an encoder strip, operates in server mode (photo of the engine here) - I googled it in flight.

This means you are even the type of engine appearance You can't identify. which confirms qualifications in radio engineering.

Such an engine is past the cash register. those.:

Those. to prove in practice that something useful can be assembled from scrap old equipment. So exactly FROM and FOR

in your case it does NOT work, well, perhaps the motor from the pump will be a stepper, even less likely - the material pulling motor. It was very old printers with a print speed of no more than 4 sheets per minute that had steppers (for example, the ancient Epson PhotoPaint 800, which was produced in the late 90s - everything there had steppers). And in general, in order to do such projects in the style of “making candy out of shit - I picked everything up from a landfill”, you need to have knowledge at the level of a service technician for such equipment, then you know which engines will work, and ready-made modules from boards with drivers for these engines can be use and all that, but NOT with a complete lack of knowledge, which you have already confirmed many times in your posts.

ABOUT! Invented! If the concept is so difficult to understand, then you can have a complete list (slats, guides, dumb 17ths, “brains”, harnesses, etc.). But only a detailed list. If there is a link to such a topic, then it can be a link. Then I will remove everything I already have from this list and draw up a general price list.

Or maybe, in addition to the list, you can also add drawings for assembly? Or maybe do full detailing right away and Assembly drawing with a set of firmware? Or should I immediately send you the assembled sample? and then you will do a heroic act and remove from the list you have compiled everything that is not necessary for this.

Hmmm. Super design. At least I was glad that you write competently, otherwise, usually, topics with such megaprojects are created by figures who make up to five mistakes in a word. So, if you understand my epistolary quirks, you have a chance, although you can find and read enough literature to actually implement such a project, it will take a lot of persistent searching and serious work, and correctly composed questions can be answered in essence, but don't do everything for you. And regarding modeling from shit and sticks, it makes sense to read “this project” and “this,” then it will become clear why there is such an attitude towards projectors. And why for such projects they created a section “The circus went here.”

So, I made an introductory note for the project. I recommend that you find a topic here on the forum with a similar in meaning already made project by a similar engraver and study it, and, for starters, read the above recommended article by Ridico, so as to start a dialogue. Well, wish you good luck.

If I knew everything about engines, and about which ardruino would be better to install, then I wouldn’t even register here, because why would I need advice.

I haven’t worked with Arduino, BUT if I needed to get information on this circuit design, I would register on sites about Arduino. And to read and get advice, you don’t need to register.

I looked at the photo. I thought a lot.

Here's what I came up with:

— The guides are flimsy and short (the working field is A4 format - not that)

With such details, I wouldn’t dare to use a laser printer (well, it wouldn’t be interesting), but you can try a 3D printer. pile.

Not more than 3-4 months ago. here one comrade reported on his work. I also built lasers. if he didn’t lie to sell, he spanked very good ones. The design is very simple, spartan. but functional. So what am I talking about. If I'm not mistaken, he also used an Arduino. The most important thing is no fuss with soldering and re-soldering. everything is on the bars and clamps (a little welding on the frame).

I don’t know how ethical it will be to roll out someone else’s work as obvious plagiarism in the future, but if I have already posted it for public viewing. This means that this option was provided for. I'll rummage around now. If I find it, I’ll point it with my finger (nose).

found. read see. easier. there seems to be nowhere else.

The same project, and a working one at that.

Gentlemen, I’m assembling CNC machines from scanners. everything works, but there is a problem.

There are several stepper motors from the scanner. a regular tablet. motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

I'm building something like a plotter.
I connect to CNC v3 + A4988 + arduino uno. 12 volts. for cnc v3 12V is the minimum.

The motors get very hot. I tried adjusting the A4988 current to a minimum. The motors squeak and still get hot.

what to do? I ask for help.
I couldn't find the engine specifications. can you tell me? at least approximately.
Can these A4988 drivers be used with such engines?
What is the easiest way to solve the problem of engine overheating? otherwise I’m sure that after an hour of work they will melt%)

motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

IMHO: the engines are bullshit. just make nanorobots.

similar ones (in appearance) seemed to be in cheap cassette players.

Well, honestly. even just to play - too small

The motors squeak and still get hot.

as long as I remember. For a stepper, 80 degrees is still normal. grab it with your hand, it seems to be boiling. but no.

When using the gearbox included in the motor, a simple laser module moves normally. without skipping steps.

Probably 5 volts is enough for them. I made this assumption from the fact that some scanners simply work from USB.

I'll try to leave it at work for a couple of hours.

but still, there are ideas to use for other purposes also these 3-5 volt ones bipolar engines:

How and what to manage. Maybe it's possible directly from the Arduino? if possible, help with a diagram, for example

Gentlemen, I’m assembling CNC machines from scanners. everything works, but there is a problem. There are several stepper motors from the scanner. a regular tablet. motor thickness 7-9mm, diameter 35mm.

Another project of assembling a “super megadrive” from something worn in the trash. If you really want to know the engine parameters, then take and restore its power supply circuit in the scanner, and then, based on the datasheet of its power supply driver, calculate the operating current.