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Before considering the issue on the merits, it is necessary to understand the terminology. The fact is that many articles give fundamentally incorrect definitions of a wet facade, which causes confusion among inexperienced developers. Amateurs call a wet facade such insulation, for the installation of which water-based glue is used. Since this material is “wet”, then the facade, respectively, is also “wet”. For persuasiveness, they talk about the dew point (it, they say, in this case is taken out of the wall) and the information takes on a “scientific” look. What is real?

According to current building regulations, all buildings must meet the requirements for heat saving. It is impossible to achieve this without the use of heaters. For example, even wooden walls V middle lane our country must have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the desired thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of brick, then their thickness increases to 120 cm or more. Of course, no one puts up such houses, and to improve the heat saving indicators, effective heaters are used, most often mineral wool or polystyrene.

Warming can be done both internal and external surfaces of facade walls. Let's dwell on the outer surfaces, they are insulated in two ways.

As for the dew point, in all cases, without exception, it is taken out of the premises. The only exception is that the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled to the dew point. Such cases happen in old panel Khrushchevs.

We specifically took your time to explain the terminology, only knowing this, you can correctly understand the process of facade insulation using various technologies.

Technically correct, such facades should be called a heat-insulating composite system for insulating facade walls with external plaster layers. As heaters, slabs of foam or pressed mineral wool are used, the thickness is selected taking into account the climatic zone and the initial characteristics of the thermal conductivity of the facade walls. But in most cases, you need at least ten centimeters. Pressed mineral wool is used very rarely and only special types. The reason is insufficient indicators of physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers does the wet facade consist of?

1. The base is a facade wall. It can be brick, wood, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSB sheets. Requirement - the surface must be flat. Otherwise, air will circulate between the wall surface and the foam boards, because of this phenomenon, the insulation efficiency decreases significantly.
2. Thermal insulation layer. Expanded polystyrene of facade grades (non-combustible). It is fixed with glue and dish-shaped dowels.
3. Fiberglass. It is advisable to purchase nets that are resistant to alkalis.
4. Ordinary for painting or decorative plaster. It is allowed to finish the finish with light facing facade slabs.

Before proceeding to the description of the wet facade installation technology, we want to dwell on the requirements for facade plaster in more detail. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which the following will be preserved in their original form:

• facade integrity;
• its novelty.

So, it is best to opt for elastic facade plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, the new generation bark beetle plaster. Consider the main advantages of this facade coating.

Elasticity. Due to the presence of silicone in the composition, "Bark beetle" is flexible and elastic. Such properties of the coating prevent the formation of microscopic cracks on the dried plaster. This is an important quality, because any building after the completion of construction work is subjected to:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• expansion and contraction of the materials from which the building is made, with changes in temperature.

All of these circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on ordinary plaster. The elastic silicone composition can protect your facade from this trouble.

The texture of silicone plaster "Bark beetle", grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance. Another unique feature of the Farbe bark beetle plaster is its 100% resistance to moisture and full vapor permeability. For this, again, you can thank the unusual composition of the mixture. The finished plaster adheres tightly to every unevenness of the covered wall, and creates a protection through which water cannot seep through.

Long-term color retention. Farbe plaster contains silicone resins, which give the following effects:

• the surface does not burn out - protection from ultraviolet rays is provided;
• prevents the effect of any other phenomena that affect the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of mechanical action, the plaster was scratched or rubbed somewhere, you will not even notice it. The entire mass of plaster is tinted in color and no scratches or abrasions are visible on it.

Self cleaning. Thanks to the "clean facade" technology, the facing plaster "Bark beetle" is independently cleaned. This happens due to the following factors:

• during distribution and solidification, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
• in the presence of even a little rain, the dust that has settled on the facade is easily washed off without outside help.

In other words, if you are too lazy to independently monitor the appearance of the dwelling, and would like it to be “itself”, the Bark beetle plaster from the Farbe factory is your option.

Record service life. The service life of Bark beetle is on average five times higher than for similar products on the market today. If using ordinary plaster, you renew the facade coating every 5 years, with "Bark beetle" this should be done every quarter of a century.

Tinting. According to the manufacturer's statements, the bark beetle silicone plaster you are interested in is tinted in about 2,500 different shades. This diversity is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from the world's leading manufacturers.

Variants of shades of silicone plaster "Korooed" Farbe

Little expense. Dry plasters imply material consumption during cladding, equal to approximately 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the Farbe factory, due to the quality and high density of the composition, suggests using no more than 3 kilograms per unit area, which is enough to form an ideal coating.

The production of the considered silicone plaster for facades is certified according to the international standard. By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide the walls of your own home with reliable protection.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Video - How to apply silicone plaster "Bark beetle"

Prices for various types of decorative bark beetle plaster

Plaster decorative bark beetle

Wet facade installation technology

Count the amount of building materials with a margin of about 10%, prepare the tools. As a heater, we recommend using foam boards, this is the cheapest and very effective option. The disadvantage of polystyrene is the complete impermeability of moisture, but this will have to be put up with. Moreover, brick or concrete surfaces hardly breathe anyway.

To finish the facades, you will need scaffolding, it is better to use metal ones. If not, make your own from lumber. Pay great attention to safety, install them on stable surfaces. Check the position by level, if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical posts to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. During the installation of scaffolding, leave a gap between them and the wall, the size of the gap should ensure comfortable hand operation during plastering or painting the insulation layer. Otherwise, the scaffolding will have to be dismantled and re-installed, and this is an extra waste of time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the facade walls, irregularities of more than 1 cm must be cut down, all the rest can be trimmed with glue. Do not be afraid that the cost of work will increase. If you calculate the time for additional wall plastering, the price of materials, then the use of glue as a leveling mortar will be much more profitable.

Step 2 Beat off the lower horizontal line with a special rope with blue, do it in a strictly horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plates will slide down, then you need to fix a flat wooden or metal rail along the line. Fasten it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of the facade wall.

Practical advice. Dish-shaped dowels must match the base, they have differences for wooden, foam block and brick walls, keep this in mind when buying materials. Dowels can be screwed into a tree or driven into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the foam sheet and the adhesive, plus approximately 60 mm to fix it in the wall.

Step 3 Porous surfaces should be primed, use a deep penetration primer. Apply the solution liberally for maximum impregnation of porous substrates. On smooth cement or brick facade walls, spray with cement laitance. Such operations will increase the coefficient of adhesion of the adhesive to the surfaces.

Step 4 Measure the amount of deviation from the horizontal corners of the house and check the plane of the walls. This can be done with a plumb line and a rope.

1. In the corners of the house, install plumb lines along the entire height of the wall. At the top and bottom, tie the rope to specially installed metal bars, pull it well.
2. Attach a horizontal cord to the stretched ropes, do not tighten the knots.
3. Gradually pull the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

These data will make it possible to assess the condition of the wall. If deviations exceed a centimeter, then they will have to be repaired.

Step 5 Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. The amount depends on your productivity. During the preparation of the mixture, pour water into the container, and then pour in the dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the walls of the facade are covered with old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First, check the strength of adhesion to the base. To do this, cut a grid of grooves about 1 × 1 cm in size in the paint, stick masking tape to the surface and tear it off. If the paint remains on the wall - excellent, the insulation of the facade can be done on it. If not, you will have to remove it from the surface of the walls.

Step 6 Glue must be applied to the surface of the foam. If the wall is even (roughnesses do not exceed 5 mm), use a comb. But this happens very rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be applied with a trowel or spatula using the beacon method. On one sheet, you need up to eight beacons up to two centimeters high around the perimeter and in the center, with a diameter of about 10 cm. Due to this height, foam boards are easy to level. Glue must be applied at an angle along the edges of the slab to prevent it from getting into the seams.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural air convection between the insulation and facade wall, otherwise natural traction will appear and the insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, but inefficient, keep that in mind. To eliminate draft, the solution on these plates must be continuous along one line, the gap between the plates should be completely absent.

Step 7 Immediately after spreading, apply the plate to the surface. Press and level the foam with a long wooden trowel or rail, control the position with a level.

Important. Inexperienced builders can deviate vertically, it is difficult for them to control the position with a level. We recommend making a rope pattern for yourself. Stretch them at the desired distance from the wall and fix. Ropes will need to be installed at a distance of about 2-3 meters. Such simple devices will allow you to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets along the height of the facade wall.

The difference in height of the planes of two adjacent plates cannot exceed two millimeters. If deviations are found, then after the glue has cooled, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with a very sharp knife and the transition made invisible. If wide joints are obtained between the ends of the plates - it's okay, they will then be blown out with mounting foam. The second and subsequent rows are recommended to start from the inner corners and move to the outer ones, it is more difficult to adjust the inner ones.

Step 8 To increase the fire resistance of buildings between each floor, it is necessary to make fire jumpers. This requirement of the new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fire resistance of buildings. Fire cuts are made from pressed mineral wool of the same thickness as the foam boards. The width of the cuts is not less than twenty centimeters. Jumpers are installed around the entire perimeter of buildings and at window and door openings.

Step 9 Finishing window and door openings. Measure the slopes, cut out the slabs along them. Do not rush, all joints should be as even as possible. It is better to use mineral wool as a heater, but the choice is yours. If the finish is relatively massive, then take the foam. The insulation should cover the frame of the window and door, due to this, heat losses are reduced and the appearance of the facade wall is improved.

Important. In the place where the window tide will be installed, the foam must be cut at an angle to ensure an unobstructed stack of water. One more thing. The seams of the slabs should not be a continuation of the slopes. In these places, you need to use whole slabs and make appropriate cutouts in them to fit the size of the window. This method eliminates the accidental ingress of water into the gap between the facade wall and the foam. The minimum allowable distance from the seam to the slopes is 15 cm.

No glue is applied to the part of the plate adjacent to the window unit. In the future, the gap is foamed with construction foam.

Seal all the cracks with mounting foam, after it cools, carefully cut off the remnants. Fill the voids with foam to the full thickness of the plates; it is recommended to moisten the surfaces before foaming.

Step 10 After the final hardening of the adhesive, increase the fixation strength with special dowels with large heads. They need to be installed at the junction of corners and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends mounting insulation boards without dowels, no most expensive adhesive gives such a reliable fixation as dowels. There must be at least four pieces for each square meter of the slab.

This completes the insulation process, you can proceed to further finishing.

Insulation plastering

A very important process, not only the appearance of the facade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase the adhesion strength and protect the foam sheets from mechanical damage, it is necessary to use a plastic mesh, the mesh size is approximately 5 mm. Before starting work, check the surface of the wall with a long rule or rail.

First you need to trim the corners. Perforated metal profiles are used to strengthen the corners. Cut out strips of mesh about 30-40 cm wide. Apply glue to the corners of buildings of the same width, sink the reinforcing mesh into it, align it. Install a metal profile in the corners and again drown it in the solution. Level the surface. From above, the corners will be closed with a new mesh already during the finishing of the facade walls.

Step 1. With a smooth metal float or a wide spatula, apply a layer of mortar approximately 2-3 mm thick over the plates, level it immediately. There is no need to try very hard, the main thing is that it sticks well to the surface of the foam. Fiberglass mesh is easier to lay from top to bottom, the overlap must be done at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never apply the mesh to a dry wall, and then cover it with glue, only outright hacks do this. The fact is that this method of finishing significantly reduces the strength of gluing materials; in the future, cracks will certainly appear on the plaster. Pay attention to ready-made houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unscrupulous craftsmen.

Step 2 Carefully level the surface of the mesh, the fibers must be completely covered with glue. Check the plane of the wall with a long rail and smooth out any irregularities. To do this, carefully attach a flat rail to the wall and immediately take it away. The footprint will show areas that need alignment.

The surface must be as flat as possible.

Step 3 If the facade is planned to be painted, then a second layer of plaster should be applied, the thickness is within 2–3 mm. The main condition is the maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, do not be discouraged if traces remain after the spatula, then they can be gently rubbed with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for finishing, then it can be applied over the first layer. The same applies to gluing thin facade panels.

If the basement is insulated, then here it is necessary to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent. The surface of the plinth must be plastered, before gluing the boards, impregnate several times with a waterproofing solution. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will fall on the glue. And the foam eliminates the possibility of evaporation, water accumulates under it, expands during freezing and the plates fall off, they will only be held on dowels. If the base is then lined with rather heavy finishing materials, then with their weight they deform the foam plates. At best, the surfaces will become uneven, at worst, you will have to remove materials and repeat the insulation of the house from the beginning.

In the absence of experience in performing such work, it is difficult to find out whether the foam is firmly glued. We recommend doing a test patch. Apply the mortar around the perimeter and in the center, place the sheet against the facade wall and align its position. Remove the styrofoam immediately and look for traces of glue on the wall. They should be uniform over the entire area, and the total area should be at least 40% of the sheet size. Such a simple test will make it possible in the future to focus on the amount and place of application of glue. In addition, you will feel with what force the foam sheet should be pressed against the facade wall.

Always start the installation of a row from the corner and from the whole slab. If a whole slab does not fit at the opposite corner, then it must be cut to size and used as the penultimate one, and the last one must be intact. In extreme cases, the area of ​​​​gluing the foam should be twice the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe part protruding around the corner of the house. Do not forget that the slab should protrude beyond the corner of the building by its thickness, in this place the insulation from the two walls should overlap. It is better to make a ledge with a margin, the excess will then be cut off. The solution must not get on the protruding part of the plate. The next rows of foam on the previous ones are installed in gearing. The tighter they fit, the more secure the mount. In the outer corners, the biggest load, and you can’t insure yourself with dowels, remember this and carefully perform all operations. The plates on the wall should be placed apart, it is forbidden to match the vertical seams on the wall.

Especially carefully check the position of the first row, it is he who sets the level for the entire wall. It is recommended to lay subsequent rows only after the adhesive has completely cured on the first and fixed with dowels.

Do not allow glue to get into the joints between the plates. Why? Cement mixtures have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become noticeable on the facade walls in the form of wet stripes. There are cases when such flaws cannot be hidden even with decorative plaster. The stripes are not permanent, appearing or disappearing depending on climatic conditions.

The main task of the reinforcing mesh is to protect the foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know that it is impossible to clean the foam from dried high-quality glue without damaging the surface. This means that the role of the grid in holding the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, then repairs still cannot be avoided, the plaster will sag on the grid. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be done in those sections of the facade wall that can be damaged by mechanical stress, as a rule, not higher than 1.5 m from the base. Anything above is up to you.

You can cut foam boards with a hacksaw. fine teeth. But this is not the best option. A much smoother cut is obtained after cutting with heated nichrome wire. It can be bought in specialized stores, the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Stretch the wire in a convenient place and connect to the outlet. Uneven cut edges after a hacksaw can be polished with a special grater.

Video - Styrofoam cutting device

Extruded polystyrene foam has very low adhesion with adhesives. Before use, be sure to clean it on both sides with a grater until shallow furrows appear.

Video - Preparing polystyrene foam for gluing

Do not use this material as the main thermal insulation, it can only be used to finish the basement. And then only in those cases when the finishing of these surfaces is done with heavy materials.

Video - Wet facade installation technology

TYPICAL TECHNOLOGICAL CHART (TTK)

THERMAL INSULATION OF THE FACADE OF THE BUILDING WITH MINERAL COTTON PLATES "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D"

I. SCOPE

I. SCOPE

1.1. A typical technological map (hereinafter referred to as TTK) is a comprehensive organizational and technological document developed on the basis of methods of scientific organization of labor for performing a technological process and determining the composition production operations using the most modern means mechanization and methods of performing work according to a specific technology. TTK is intended for use in the development of the Project for the Production of Works (PPR) by construction departments and is its integral part in accordance with MDS 12-81.2007.

Fig.1. Wall insulation scheme

1 - insulated Brick wall; 2 - insulation plate; 3 - dowel plate type; 4 - base plaster layer; 5 - reinforcing fiberglass mesh; 6 - primer layer; 7 - finishing plaster; 8 - base rail with special dowels

1.2. This TTC provides instructions on the organization and technology of work on the thermal insulation of the facade of the building of the MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D", determines the composition of production operations, requirements for quality control and acceptance of work, planned labor intensity of work, labor, production and material resources, measures for industrial safety and labor protection.

1.3. The regulatory framework for the development of technological maps are:

- standard drawings;

- building codes and regulations (SNiP, SN, SP);

- factory instructions and specifications (TU);

- norms and prices for construction and installation works (GESN-2001 ENiR);

- production norms for the consumption of materials (NPRM);

- local progressive norms and prices, labor costs norms, material and technical resources consumption norms.

1.4. The purpose of the creation of the TC is to describe the solutions for the organization and technology of work on the thermal insulation of the facade of the MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D" building, time to ensure their high quality, as well as:

- cost reduction of works;

- reduction of construction time;

- ensuring the safety of work performed;

- organization of rhythmic work;

- rational use of labor resources and machines;

- unification of technological solutions.

1.5. On the basis of the TTC, as part of the PPR (as mandatory components of the Work Execution Project), Working Flow Charts (RTC) are being developed for the performance of certain types of work on the thermal insulation of the facade of the MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D" building.

The design features of their implementation are decided in each case by the Working Design. The composition and level of detail of materials developed in the RTC are established by the relevant contracting construction organization, based on the specifics and scope of work performed.

RTK are considered and approved as part of the PPR by the head of the General Contractor Construction Organization.

1.6. TTK can be tied to a specific object and construction conditions. This process consists in clarifying the scope of work, means of mechanization, the need for labor and material and technical resources.

The procedure for linking the TTK to local conditions:

- consideration of map materials and selection of the desired option;

- verification of the compliance of the initial data (volumes of work, time standards, brands and types of mechanisms, building materials used, composition of the worker link) to the accepted option;

- adjustment of the scope of work in accordance with the chosen option for the production of work and a specific design solution;

- recalculation of costing, technical and economic indicators, the need for machines, mechanisms, tools and material and technical resources in relation to the chosen option;

- design of the graphic part with a specific binding of mechanisms, equipment and fixtures in accordance with their actual dimensions.

1.7. A typical flow chart has been developed for engineering and technical workers (work foremen, foremen, foremen) and workers performing work in the III temperature zone, in order to familiarize (train) them with the rules for performing work on the thermal insulation of the facade of the building MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D ", using the most modern means of mechanization, progressive designs and materials, methods of performing work.

The technological map has been developed for the following scopes of work:

II. GENERAL PROVISIONS

2.1. The technological map was developed for a set of works on thermal insulation of the facade of the IVP building "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D".

2.2. Works on thermal insulation of the facade of the building of the MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D" are carried out in one shift, the working hours during the shift are:

Where - the duration of the work shift without a lunch break;

Coefficient of output reduction;

- conversion factor.

In calculating the norms of time and duration of work, a one-shift mode of operation was adopted with a working shift of 10 hours with a five-day working week. The net working time during the shift is taken, taking into account the coefficient of output reduction due to the increase in the duration of the shift compared to the 8-hour working shift, equal to 0,05 and conversion factor 1,25 total time for a 5-day working week ("Methodological recommendations for the organization of the rotational method of work in construction, M-2007").

where - preparatory and final time, 0.24 hours, incl.

Breaks related to the organization and technology of the process include the following breaks:

Getting the job at the beginning of the shift and handing over the work at the end 10 min=0.16 hour.

Preparation of the workplace, tools, etc. 5 min=0.08 hour.

2.3. The scope of work performed during the thermal insulation of the facade of the building of the MVP "ROCKWOOL FACADE BATTS D" includes:

- geodetic marking of the facade of the building;

- preparation of the building base;

- priming the base of the facade with an adhesive primer;

- installation of a basement ebb;

- installation of ebb window block;

- installation of external side frames of the window block;

- installation of a socle profile for installation of a heater;

- gluing heat-insulating plates to the base of the facade;

- mechanical fastening of heat-insulating plates to the facade;

- installation of reinforcing elements and profiles;

- creation of a protective reinforced plaster layer;

- anti-vandal protection measures;

- priming of the protective reinforced layer;

- application of a protective and decorative layer of facade plaster;

- priming of the decorative layer;

- Painting walls and slopes of the facade with acrylic paint.

2.4. For thermal insulation of the facade of the building, the following materials are used as the main materials: cement-lime mortar С22 (СЦС) according to GOST 7473-2010; deep penetrating primer "Weber.Рrim Contact"; adhesive composition "Weber.therm S 100"; reinforcing fiberglass mesh alkali-resistant (cell 5x5, 160 g/m); mineral wool boards ROCKWOOL Facade Butts D (size 1200x500x150 mm); primer acrylic tinting Weber.Pas UNI; silicate-silicone plaster Weber.Pas Extra Clean; acrylic facade paint Weber.Ton Akrylat; acrylic frost-resistant sealant MAKROFLEX FA131; sloping metal panels; aluminum plinth profile AL-150 (150x0.8x2500 mm); polyurethane foam MAKROFLEX; plate-type polymer anchor with a drive-in element (8/60x165 mm); PVC corner (20x20 mm) with fiberglass mesh (100x150 mm); PVC corner with dripper MAT D/05; PVC corner adjoining window, self-adhesive with reinforcing fiberglass mesh.

2.5. The technological map provides for the performance of work by an integrated mechanized unit consisting of: perforator RH2551 "STURM" (weight 2.8 kg, power 500 W, drilling 20 mm); drill driver Metabo Se 2800 (power 400 W); forced mortar mixer SO-46B (power 1.5 kW, loading volume 80 l); electric hand mixer ZMR-1350E-2 (weight 6.3 kg, power 1.35 kW); membrane spray gun electric Wagner DP-6830 (weight 30 kg, power 1.5 kW); Vacuum cleaner Karcher NT 14/1 And diesel power plant Atlas Copco QAS 125 (maximum power 111 kW) as a driving mechanism.

Fig.2. Diesel power plant Atlas Copco QAS 125

Fig.3. Airbrush Wagner DP-6830

Fig.4. Mortar mixer SO-46B

Fig.5. Perforator RH2551 "STURM"

Fig.6. Drill driver Metabo Se 2800

Fig.7. Hand mixer ZMR-1350E-2

Fig.8. Vacuum cleaner Karcher NT 14/1

2.6. Work on the installation of an insulated facade should be carried out, guided by the requirements of the following regulatory documents:

- SP 48.13330.2011. "SNiP 12-01-2004 Organization of construction. Updated edition";

- SNiP 3.01.03-84. Geodetic works in construction;

- Manual to SNiP 3.01.03-84. Production of geodetic works in construction;

- SNiP 3.03.01-87. Bearing and enclosing structures;

- SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings;

- SNiP 3.04.03-85. Protection of building structures against corrosion;

- STO NOSTROY 2.33.14-2011. Organization of construction production. General provisions;

- STO NOSTROY 2.33.51-2011. Organization of construction production. Preparation and production of construction and installation works;

- STO NOSTROY 2.14.7-2011. Facade heat-insulating composite systems with external plaster layers. Rules for the production of works. Requirements for the results and the system for monitoring the work performed;

- SNiP 12-03-2001. Labor safety in construction. Part 1. General requirements;

- SNiP 12-04-2002. Labor safety in construction. Part 2. Construction production;

- PB 10-14-92*. Rules for the construction and safe operation of cranes;
________________
* PB 10-14-92 are not valid. Instead, the Federal norms and rules in the field of industrial safety of November 12, 2013 N 533 apply hereinafter. - Database manufacturer's note.

- VSN 274-88. Safety regulations for the operation of self-propelled jib cranes;

- RD 11-02-2006. Requirements for the composition and procedure for maintaining as-built documentation during construction, reconstruction, overhaul of facilities capital construction and requirements for certificates of survey of works, structures, sections of engineering and technical support networks;

- RD 11-05-2007. The procedure for maintaining a general and (or) special journal for recording the performance of work during construction, reconstruction, overhaul of capital construction projects.

III. ORGANIZATION AND TECHNOLOGY OF WORK PERFORMANCE

3.1. In accordance with SP 48.13330.2001 "SNiP 12-01-2004. Organization of construction. Updated edition" prior to the commencement of construction and installation works at the facility, the Contractor is obliged to obtain from the Customer design documentation and permission to perform construction and installation works in the prescribed manner. Work without permission is prohibited.

3.2. Prior to the start of work on the installation of thermal insulation of the facade of the building, it is necessary to carry out a set of organizational and technical measures, including:

- develop RTK or PPR for thermal insulation of the facade of the building;

- appoint persons responsible for the safe performance of work, as well as their control and quality of performance;

- briefing the members of the safety team;

- establish temporary inventory household premises for the storage of building materials, tools, inventory, heating workers, eating, drying and storing work clothes, bathrooms, etc.;

- provide the site with working documentation approved for the production of work;

- prepare machines, mechanisms and equipment for the production of work and deliver them to the facility;

- provide workers manual machines, tools and personal protective equipment;

- provide the construction site with fire-fighting equipment and signaling equipment;

- prepare places for storing building materials, products and structures;

- fence the construction site and put up warning signs illuminated at night;

- provide communication for operational and dispatching control of the production of works;

- deliver to the work area necessary materials, fixtures, inventory, tools and means for the safe production of work;

- check quality certificates, passports for reinforcing steel, lumber, plywood;

- to test construction machines, means of mechanization of work and equipment according to the nomenclature provided for by the RTK or PPR;

- draw up an act of readiness of the object for the production of work;

- obtain permission from the technical supervision of the Customer to start work (clause 4.1.3.2 of RD 08-296-99*).
________________
* RD 08-296-99 is not valid. - Database manufacturer's note.


3.4. Prior to the start of work on the installation of insulation of the facade of the building, the provisions of the TTC must be completed preparatory work, including:

- accepted from the customer facade for finishing;

- roofing, cornice overhangs and canopies over the entrances were installed;

- installation of window and door blocks is completed;

- completed work on the installation of all floor structures, balconies and loggias;

- installed, tested for strength and accepted by the commission scaffolding mounted facade lift;

- around the building the blind area is made;

- installed all the fastenings of drainpipes and fire escapes;

- Passages for pedestrians are fenced.

3.4.1. For the installation of insulation, the facade of the building is transferred by the General Contractor / Customer to the Subcontractor Construction Organization, according to the Acceptance and Transfer Certificate of the facade for finishing, in accordance with Appendix A, STO NOSTROY 2.14.7-2011.

3.4.2. Installation technology roofing, window and door blocks, interior finishing works are considered in separate technological maps.

3.4.3. Geodetic marking of the facade of the building (vertical and horizontal axes under the structure) is carried out by a link of surveyors in the following sequence:

- checking the geometric parameters of buildings for compliance with their design values;

- drawing up a three-dimensional digital model of facades in the 3D AutoCAD environment;

- marking of horizontal and vertical axes of fastening of facade cladding structures;

- drawing up an executive drawing on the vertical planes of the building;

- drawing markup marks on the drawing of the facade of the building.

3.4.4. The work performed must be presented to the representative of the Customer's technical supervision for inspection and documentation by signing the Certificate of breakdown of the axes of the capital construction object on the ground in accordance with Appendix 2, RD 11-02-2006 and obtain permission to work on the installation of facade wall insulation.

3.4.5. The act of laying out the axes must be accompanied by an Executive scheme for setting out (laying out) the horizontal and vertical axes of fastening of the facade cladding structures in the accepted system of coordinates and heights.

3.4.6. The completion of the preparatory work is recorded in the General Work Log (The recommended form is given in RD 11-05-2007) and must be accepted according to the Act on the implementation of labor safety measures, drawn up in accordance with Appendix I, SNiP 12-03-2001.

3.5. Preparation of the building base

3.5.1. Surfaces before cladding must be cleaned of mortar, dirt and concrete, the plinth - from construction debris. Individual irregularities of more than 15 mm, as well as general deviations of the surface to be lined from the vertical of more than 15 mm, must be corrected by cutting down the bulges on the surface and applying a leveling layer of cement mortar, which is applied without smoothing and grouting. At the end of the leveling, the surfaces are checked for the building level, plumb line and rule. All cracks are cut and rubbed with cement-sand mortar.

3.5.2. Next, mechanized cleaning of wall surfaces contaminated with lubricants, oils and anti-adhesive agents is carried out using water, with the addition of detergents using industrial vacuum cleaner for dry and wet cleaning Karcher NT14/1 Eco Te Advanced.

3.5.3. The marking of the surface of the facade of the building is carried out in the following sequence:

- the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line along the flat part after 2-3 m, as well as at the break points of the facade;

- the position of the horizontal seams of the cladding is marked with paint along the cord or slats are installed - orders;

- the outer surface of the cladding is marked with a horizontal cord at the height of its first row;

- after hanging the wall, it is marked out for making holes for anchors.

3.5.4. Drilling holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels using a manual perforator RH2551 "STURM" . Holes are cleaned from drilling waste (dust) by blowing with compressed air or washing with water under pressure.

3.5.5. Driving screws 45 mm long with a manual drill driver Metabo Se 2800.

3.5.6. Leveling screw heads.

3.5.7. Installing plastic fasteners on screws.

3.5.8. Installation in fastenings of metal beacons.

3.5.9. Stretching the cord between the beacons.

Fig.9. Scheme for installing beacons for marking the wall

3.6. Priming the base of the facade with an adhesive primer

3.6.1. Preparation of cement-lime mortar in forced mortar mixer SO-46B.

3.6.2. Sealing of local damages and cracks of the surface of the facade, leveling of individual places with lime-cement mortar.

3.6.3. Preparation of the primer by mixing manual electric mixer ZMR-1350E-2.

3.6.4. Base processing deep penetration primer "Weber.prim contact" to eliminate the leakage of the surface of the walls.

3.6.5. Rust removal and treatment with an anti-corrosion primer for metal parts covered with a thermal insulation system.

3.6.6. The completed work on the priming of the facade must be presented to the representative of the technical supervision of the Customer for inspection and documentation by signing the Concealed Work Examination Certificate, in accordance with Appendix 3, RD 11-02-2006.

3.7. Installation of steel, galvanized, socle flashing

3.7.1. Drilling holes with a diameter of 8 mm for the support brackets using a manual perforator RH2551 "STURM"

3.7.2. Fastening of support brackets to the slope with fiberglass dowels at a distance of 50 mm from the edge of the slope.

3.7.3. Installation of a plaster screed with a hydraulic tape with a slope from the wall of the building.

3.7.4. Installation plinth flashing with powder coating according to RAL on the support brackets.

3.7.5. Fastening the ebb with dowel-nails using washers to the wall through a thermal break, inserting them into the prepared hole and knocking them out with a mounting hammer.

3.7.6. Establishment of overlays along the edges of the ebb, preventing the flow of water on the sides of the ebb.

3.7.7. The completed work on the installation of the basement ebb must be presented to the representative of the technical supervision of the Customer for inspection, and documenting by signing the Certificate of Inspection of Critical Structures, in accordance with Appendix 4, RD 11-02-2006.

Fig.10. Scheme of installation of a basement ebb

1 - basement ebb; 2 - base; 3 - polyurethane foam; 4 - sealant, sealant; 5 - house wall

3.8. Installation of a steel, galvanized window frame

3.8.1. Drilling holes with a diameter of 8 mm for the support brackets using a manual perforator RH2551 "STURM" . Holes are cleaned from drilling waste (dust) by blowing with compressed air or washing with water under pressure.

3.8.2. Fastening of support brackets to the slope with fiberglass dowels at a distance of 50 mm from the edge of the slope.

3.8.3. Laying a plaster screed with a hydraulic tape with a slope from the wall of the building.

3.8.4. Preliminary measurement of the width and depth of the opening.

3.8.5. Cut the ebb to a certain size using electric jigsaw Bosch PST 900 PEL.

3.8.6. Mounting the tide on the support brackets.

3.8.7. Fixing the tide to the window frame exactly along the edge with a step of 15 cm, with flat-head self-tapping screws using manual drill driver Metabo Se 2800 . Screw the self-tapping screws exactly into the center of the profile without tilting, visually controlling the fit of the corner to the frame, and close the cap with a decorative cap.

3.8.8. Establishment of overlays along the edges of the ebb, preventing the flow of water on the sides of the ebb.

3.8.9. Lubrication of the lower joint of the ebb with the wall with liquid sealant.

3.8.10. The completed work on the installation of window sills must be presented to the Customer's technical supervision representative for inspection and documentation by signing the Certificate of Inspection of Critical Structures, in accordance with Appendix 4, RD 11-02-2006.

Fig.11. Scheme of installation of the ebb with a bracket on a cement screed

1 - casting pad; 2 - window tide; 3 - support bracket; 4 - window box; 5 - galvanized screw; 6 - window sill; 7 - polyurethane foam; 8 - cement mortar; 9 - dowel; 10 - house wall

3.9. Installation of external steel, galvanized side frames of the window unit with powder coating according to RAL

3.9.1. Clearing the gaps between the installed PVC window unit and the wall, removing brown dry mounting foam.

3.9.2. Filling the gaps with acrylic sealant and leveling it with a spatula flush with the slope using foam gun "STANDARD" .

3.9.3. Preliminary measurement of the height (), width () and depth () of the opening.

3.9.4. Cutting sloping corners according to certain sizes (-2 pcs., - 1 pc.) using electric jigsaw Bosch PST 900 PEL .

3.9.5. Drilling holes in the wall of the opening 6 mm, 50 mm, two on top and two on the sides, at an angle and at a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the wall using a manual perforator RH2551 "STURM" .

3.9.6. Driving into the holes of plastic dowels.

3.9.7. Application of mounting adhesive to the reverse side of the sloping corners (panels).

3.9.8. Installation of the upper corner with size B, close to the upper quarter (the narrow shelf of the profile should face the windows, the wide one should face the wall of the opening).

3.9.9. Fastening the upper corner to the wall with dowels, and to the window frame exactly along the edge with a step of 15 cm with flat-head self-tapping screws using manual drill driver Metabo Se 2800 . Screw the screws exactly into the center of the profile without tilting, visually controlling the fit of the corner to the frame, and close the cap with a decorative cap and self-tapping screws.

3.9.10. Filling the gap between the corner and the slope with acrylic sealant, followed by leveling it with a spatula flush with the slope.

3.9.11. Cutting the lower ends of the side corners (panels) at an angle of inclination of the ebb.

3.9.12. Fastening the side corners to the window frame exactly along the edge with a step of 15 cm, using self-tapping screws with a flat head (screw the self-tapping screws exactly into the center of the profile without tilt, visually controlling the fit of the corner to the frame), close the hat with a decorative cap and self-tapping screws to the wall in dowels.

3.9.13. Lubrication of the upper joints of the corners with the wall and the lower joints of the corners with a low tide with liquid sealant.

3.9.14. The completed work on the installation of side window frames must be presented to the Customer's technical supervision representative for inspection and documentation by signing the Certificate of Inspection of Critical Structures, in accordance with Appendix 4, RD 11-02-2006.

Fig.12. Scheme of installation of window frames

3.10. Installation of a basement profile for the installation of insulation

3.10.1. Fixing the aluminum plinth profile AL150 to the base of the facade with dowels at a height of 0.40 m strictly horizontally, ensuring its tight connection to the base of the facade, using special washers of appropriate thickness, leaving a gap between adjacent profiles of 2-3 mm for joining with plastic connecting elements. The distance between the dowels during installation should not exceed 300 mm.

3.10.2. Connecting the base profile with connecting elements. It is forbidden to connect the plinth profile when installing with an overlap.

3.10.3. Installation of compensators for leveling the base profile in the plane. In places where the plinth profile is attached, it is necessary to ensure its tight connection to the base of the facade, using special washers of appropriate thickness.

3.10.4. Formation of a basement profile at the corners of the facade of the building by means of two oblique cuts of the protruding horizontal profile and its subsequent bend.

Fig.13. Installation diagram of the base profile with connecting elements

3.10.5. Stabilization of the profile crate with fiberglass with a width of at least 0.3 m by gluing it to the wall with glue "Weber.therm S 100" with access to the basement profile.

Fig.14. Stabilization of the plinth profile with fiberglass

Any housing needs high-quality thermal insulation. And it's not just about creating comfortable conditions human habitation, although, of course, this is one of the determining factors. Uninsulated building structures deteriorate faster, become saturated with moisture, erode during temperature fluctuations, and are affected by mold and fungus. In a word, the durability of the whole house as a whole is sharply reduced.

Facade insulation with expanded polystyrene technology

The largest structures in terms of area in contact with outdoor conditions are the walls of the house. That is, if they are left without thermal insulation, enormous heat losses are inevitable. There are many ways to solve this problem. And in this publication, the insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam will be considered, the technology of which is quite understandable and accessible for independent work.

We will try to give a detailed picture, from the properties of this insulation material, to the necessary calculations and step by step instructions for the implementation of all technological operations.

We get acquainted with the material - extruded polystyrene foam brand "PENOPLEKS"

To be honest, expanded polystyrene is generally not the best option for external thermal insulation of the walls of a residential building. He has several shortcomings that should alert the owners - this will be mentioned below. However, rigid insulation of the polystyrene group attracts with an affordable price, high thermal insulation qualities, and very great ease of use. Therefore, they remain at the peak of popularity.

But if a decision has already been made in favor of expanded polystyrene, then it is better not to use its extruded variety, but to stop at a cheaper and more affordable white foam. However, numerous requests on the topic of wall insulation with foam plastic still force us to consider this issue, although the author himself is not a supporter of this method.

So, if we consider the options for extruded polystyrene foam, then, perhaps, nothing better than PENOPLEX brand products is worth looking for. By the way, the name of this product has already become a household name, and has turned into "foam", as plates of such material are now called, even those produced by other companies. But we will still talk about branded products.

Penoplex plates (hereinafter we will focus on just such a “folk” name) are rigid insulating panels of clear geometric dimensions. Branded products are distinguished by a characteristic orange color. Along the edges of the plates, docking edges are provided according to the "quarter" principle - it is very convenient during installation, and the surface is almost seamless.

By its structure, the material is a homogeneous rigid porous structure - these are microscopic closed (not communicating with each other) cells filled with gas. It is this "airiness" that gives the penoplex its outstanding insulating capabilities.

The product line is quite diverse. But for our case, that is, for wall insulation, it is best to use two varieties. Their names are eloquent - "Comfort" and "Facade". These products are best adapted for this use.

The main characteristics of these plates can be found in the proposed table:

Density	kg/m³	from 25 to 35	from 25 to 35
Compressive strength at 10% linear deformation, not less than	MPa	0.18	0.2
Bending strength of the material	MPa	0.25	0.25
Water absorption for the first day, no more	% of volume	0.4	0,5
Water absorption for the first month, no more	% of volume	0.5	0,55
fire resistance category	group	G4	G3
Thermal conductivity coefficient at (25±5) °С	W/(m×°С)	0,030	0,030
Estimated coefficient of thermal conductivity under operating conditions "A" (normal)	W/(m×°С)	0,031	0,031
Estimated coefficient of thermal conductivity under operating conditions "B" ( high humidity)	W/(m×°С)	0,032	0,032
Partition soundproofing (GKL-PENOPLEKS® 50 mm-GKL), Rw	dB	41	41
Structural noise insulation improvement index in floor construction	dB	23	23
Standard sizes:
width	mm	600	600
length	mm	1200	1200
thickness	mm		20; 30; 40; 50; 60; 80; 100; 120; 150
Operating temperature range	°С	-100 to +75	-100 to +75

To make "dry numbers" become "more talkative" and understandable, it makes sense to list the main advantages and disadvantages of this material.

• Insulating ability is very high. The thermal conductivity coefficient even for the most unfavorable operating conditions is not higher than 0.032 W/m×K. Perhaps only polyurethane foam can argue with such characteristics, but there is already a completely different degree of complexity in performing thermal insulation, and the price level is completely different.
• The material practically does not absorb moisture. In direct contact with water, during the first day, it can “take in” up to 0.5% of its volume, and this is where everything stops, regardless of the duration of operation in such conditions. And half a percent is only a thin surface layer, while the rest of the material will be completely dry. And this, in turn, suggests that even under the most adverse conditions, foam plastic will not lose its thermal insulation qualities. For example, it is used for underground insulation of foundations, and it does not care about contact with wet soil.

• Penoplex is an obstacle in the way of water vapor - it is practically impenetrable for them. This, by the way, is not always a virtue. In particular, for external wall insulation, it would be better to provide vapor permeability so that the walls, so to speak, “breathe”. Penoplex will not provide such an opportunity, unlike polystyrene (although even this ability is not particularly pronounced). This means that you will have to focus on the internal vapor barrier of the walls, or very effective ventilation of the premises so that the walls do not get damp. And even then it is very difficult to completely avoid the possibility of such a phenomenon.
• One of the most important advantages of penoplex is its mechanical strength. And this along with a very low density. The material is not afraid of high loads (within reason, of course) for compression and fracture. At the same time, penoplex is easy to cut with the simplest tools.

Penoplex also has certain flaws to consider when deciding whether to use it:

• The main one, of course, is that the material cannot be attributed to non-combustible. Yes, the use of flame retardants at the production stage reduces its flammability and makes it self-extinguishing. This, by the way, is more pronounced in the "Facade" - it belongs to the flammability class "G3", while "Comfort" belongs to the lower "G4". On the Internet, there are any number of examples of burnt buildings insulated with polystyrene foam. But burning is not the worst thing. During thermal decomposition, extremely toxic gaseous products are released, which, without exaggeration, are a mortal danger. So these circumstances should at least alert the owners of the house.

Trust no one - penoplex is not a non-combustible material. And during combustion, extremely toxic gases are formed, which often become the main cause of tragedies during fires.

• Not everything is fine with penoplex with resistance to chemically active substances. Yes, with most mortars it shows inertness. However, there is a list of materials, contact with which is contraindicated for him. These include:

Petroleum products: gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, motor oils;

Acetone and other solvents of the ketone group;

Polyester compounds often used as hardeners in epoxy based formulations;

Toluene, benzene, formaldehyde, formalin;

Wood and coal tar;

All types of oil paints.

It can be important to know this, since often the insulation and waterproofing of building structures is carried out in a complex. And for waterproofing, a very wide range of materials is used, and it is necessary to select it taking into account compatibility.

• Requires expanded polystyrene and mandatory protection from exposure to ultraviolet rays.

So, the owner of the house must himself evaluate what, in his opinion, outweighs - the advantages or disadvantages of the material. And if the choice is made in favor of penoplex, then really branded products should be purchased. The fact is that under this “collective image”, sellers in stores can present plates of completely unknown origin to the buyer. Alas, in this area of ​​production of building materials, the percentage of base fakes is more than we would like.

General information about wall insulation using the "wet facade" technology

The structure of the insulation structure

Yes, this is the name of the technology that will be discussed further. She, of course, is not the only one, but one of the most popular and fairly simple for independent work.

The word "wet" in the title, apparently, is used because the insulation layer itself is glued to the "wet" mortar, and again covered with a "wet" plaster layer from above.

Schematically it looks like this:

Scheme of wall insulation using the "wet facade" technology

The outer wall of the house will be insulated (pos. 1). From the inside, from the side of the room, it certainly has or will have some kind of finish (pos. 2).

Outside, foam boards (pos. 4) of the required thickness are mounted on a layer of special adhesive composition (pos. 3) on the wall. Then this layer of thermal insulation is completely covered with a thin, up to 5 mm, layer of plaster (pos. 5) with mandatory reinforcement. And, finally, everything is crowned by the chosen facade finish (pos. 6) - it can be decorative plaster or, say, facade paint. There may be other finishes - it already depends on the preferences of the owners.

Important - the insulation boards are glued to the load-bearing wall. True, then, for greater tenderness, mechanical fastening is also carried out with special devices. This will be discussed below.

Consider briefly the general sequence of work and some important nuances.

Briefly - about the sequence of work

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to carefully prepare the surface of the wall.

It must be cleaned of old paint, if any, of peeling or “bumping” plaster. Remove dirt or oil stains.

If traces of mold or fungus damage are detected, the wall will have to be “treated” with a special antiseptic composition beforehand. And only after a positive result - move on.

A wall with signs of damage by a fungus, mold, lichen, moss must be “treated” with a special potent agent. The order of application is indicated on the package.

By and large, such processing on old walls will be useful in any case. Signs of "illness" may be hidden for now, and it is better to protect yourself.

It is necessary to get rid of all the irregularities to the maximum - knock down the protrusions, repair the potholes. It is unacceptable to leave cracks and crevices - they should first be cut deep and wide, and then, after priming, tightly filled with a cement-based repair compound. You can also use special repair putties.

Leaving unsealed cracks and cracks under the insulation layer is unacceptable!

If the irregularities are extensive, if there is a significant fracture in the plane of the wall, then it will have to be completely rough plastered. The goal is not a perfectly smooth surface, but evenness must be observed (difference no more than 10 mm per running meter- such a defect can already be leveled with glue when installing the plates).

There may be metal structures on the facade of the house, for example, brackets for external units of air conditioners or for satellite dishes. All of them must also be prepared - cleaned of rust and treated with anti-corrosion paint. A good tool for such processing is red lead.

All metal parts located on the facade are recommended to be treated with iron minium after cleaning.

And, finally, the preparatory work is crowned by careful priming of the surface of the walls. This is necessary both to strengthen their surface and to achieve high adhesion with the adhesive composition.

The specific type of primer is selected depending on the material of the capital wall

For any absorbent walls, a deep penetration composition is suitable, which is applied at least in two passes, with the second layer after the first is completely absorbed and dried. But for smooth concrete surfaces it is better to use soil from the "concrete contact" category, which has a fine-grained sand filling and creates surface roughness.

After the last layer of the applied primer has dried, you can proceed to the installation of insulation boards.

The nuances of installing foam boards

This stage begins with the installation of the starting (otherwise it is also called the basement) profile. This design element performs two important functions. Firstly, it becomes a support for the bottom row of slabs and sets the evenness of the masonry. Secondly, the profile will become a protection for the foam boards from below, that is, from the side where they will not be covered with plaster.

To mount the profile, a perfectly horizontal line is first beaten off. Even a slight skew will lead to an increase in errors and a violation of the evenness of the laying of the slabs as it rises up.

The width of the starting profile shelf must exactly match the thickness of the insulation boards.

The principle of mounting the profile is shown in the diagram:

The scheme of fastening the base profile and joining its adjacent parts

The plinth profile (pos. 1) is fixed to the wall using dowel fasteners (pos. 2). This "shelf" should encircle the house (or walls where insulation is carried out), of course, with the exception of doorways. In order for adjacent profiles to follow each other exactly, special plastic inserts (pos. 3) can be used to allow alignment within a small range. Between the profiles, a deformation gap is necessarily left - about 3 mm. And between themselves, the horizontal shelves of the profiles are joined using special connecting elements (pos. 4). There can be one or two such inserts, depending on the thickness of the plates used, that is, on the width of the shelf.

Difficulties can be when attaching the profile at the corners. How this is done is shown in the video below.

Video: How to mount the plinth profile

Gluing of plates should be carried out only on a special compound intended for thermal insulation work. No other, cheaper "analogues", such as tile adhesive, are allowed. And the dilution of the mixture should also be carried out without "amateur" - only in strict accordance with the attached instructions.

One of the examples of special mixtures for thermal insulation work using the “wet facade” technology

Glue consumption at this stage will be considerable - about 5 kg / m². But there is no getting away from this.

Approximate scheme for applying glue to foam boards

A continuous strip of glue about 100 mm wide is laid out around the perimeter of the slab. And in the central region there are rounded hills with a diameter of about 200 mm. Their number will already depend on the size of the glued fragment. The height of both the strips and the slides is about 20 mm, but it can be a little more if you need to eliminate small surface irregularities.

If the wall is perfectly even, then it is allowed to apply and spread the adhesive over the entire surface of the slab with a notched trowel with a comb height of 10 mm.

Before applying the adhesive, it is recommended to treat both sides of the plate with a coarse grater, a metal brush, or even the teeth of a hacksaw. After such processing, all small sawdust and dust should be swept away. And many craftsmen, in addition, recommend a complete processing of the ground slabs "Betonokontakt". Penoplex adhesion with mortars is, to put it mildly, unimportant, and without such preparatory measures, everything can “go to waste”.

Now - about the location of the plates on the wall and the rules for filling some sections.

• The plates are joined as closely as possible to each other. Lock connections make this task easier. Where the locks have to be cut, or when using trimmings, when fitting fragments, they try to minimize gaps.
• When gluing the plate, it is very tightly pressed against the surface, so that the glue is distributed as evenly as possible over the back surface, so that the maximum possible contact with the wall is ensured. Excess glue that has come out around the perimeter is immediately removed.
• At the corners, the principle of “bandaging” of the plates must be observed, that is, their connection with a “toothed lock”.
• Rows of slabs are laid out according to the principle of brickwork with a displacement of vertical joints by at least 200 mm. In this case, it is necessary to immediately “estimate” in advance so that there are no unfilled fragments less than 200 mm long.

Wherever the smallest infill fragment is located, it should not be shorter than 200 mm.

• Many mistakes are made when installing plates around window and door openings. It is absolutely unacceptable that the seam line of the surrounding slabs coincide with the imaginary line of continuation of the opening vertically or horizontally. In these areas, the greatest stresses are observed, and if the approach is not correct, the plaster will subsequently crack.

It is understandable to want to save as much as possible. But only facade decoration in these areas will not be durable.

The correct approach, excluding the appearance of cracks, is shown in the diagram below.

The right approach to framing window and door openings.

On each of the corners should be a whole piece of pita, with a corner cut out. Moreover, the length of the "wings" of this corner should be at least 200 mm.

• When framing openings, an allowance of plates is made inside the opening, for subsequent docking with slope insulation. Usually this is 50 mm.
• If there is an expansion joint or joint of wall panels on the main wall, it must be completely covered with slabs. In this case, the displacement of the nearest seam should be at least 200 mm.

Glue should be the main material for fixing the plates to the wall. And only after it has set, additional fixation is carried out with the help of “fungi” dowels. The length of these elements is chosen so that the working expansion part of the dowel is immersed in the wall material by at least 45 mm.

"Fungi" are usually installed at the corners of the plates, and one - in the center. In order to save money, it is recommended to place them at the intersection of the seams - then one dowel will support several adjacent plates at once.

After the final fixation, the remaining gaps and gaps between the plates are filled in order to exclude cold bridges. This can be done with mounting foam. After the expansion and solidification of the foam, its excess is cut off flush with the common surface of the mounted insulation layer.

Application of a protective plaster reinforced layer

It is not recommended to delay this stage after the installation of insulation. The impact of ultraviolet radiation on penoplex and polyurethane foam should be minimal. And from precipitation with wind, it is advisable to close the thermal insulation as soon as possible.

For work, the same composition is usually used, which was used to glue the plates. The stage is carried out approximately in the following sequence:

Work is recommended to start from the corners of the walls and from the corners of the door and window openings. For this, special plaster profiles are used - plastic corners with mesh "wings". At the same time, the slopes are also insulated - this can be done with strips of the same foam 50 mm thick, which are also fixed with glue.

Stucco profile for reinforcing corners

A thin, approximately 2 mm thick, layer of plaster-adhesive mortar is applied to a section of the wall covered with foam plastic (it does not matter, on a corner or on a straight surface). For convenience, you can use a notched trowel when distributing the composition - this will make the reinforcement operation easier.

Directly on the raw, just applied material, a fiberglass mesh is “heated” in it. In the corners - this is a profile with “wings”, on a flat area - a strip cut off from the roll (usually it has a width of 1000 mm). The strip is rolled vertically from top to bottom and sunk into the solution with a wide spatula or trowel. Important - the entire mesh must be completely immersed in the applied layer. From below, the mesh is cut exactly along the basement profile. After that, they move on to the next section.

"Sinking" of the plaster reinforcing mesh in the layer of the applied adhesive solution

All adjacent strips of the grid (including along the lines of transition from plaster profiles to straight sections of the wall) must overlap by at least 100 mm. If a horizontal overlap of two strips located one above the other is required, then it must be at least 150 mm.

After the reinforcement is completed, the mortar is allowed to set. This can take from several hours to a day - depending on the weather outside and on the characteristics of the mixture used. After that, another coating layer of the same composition is applied, which simultaneously performs the necessary leveling of the surface. The thickness of the application is about 2 mm, if in the future it is supposed to be finished with decorative plaster, or a little thicker - 3 mm, if facade paint is used.

It is clear that when finishing with decorative plaster, there is no need to smooth the applied coating layer to the ideal. But if painting is planned, then, of course, you will have to tinker more, producing the cleanest possible grout and surface polishing.

But this is already a matter of finishing. And as for, in fact, the insulation using the “wet facade” technology, then at this stage it ends.

What needs to be considered before starting work?

There are two main questions:

• What thickness should the foam boards be in order to ensure complete thermal insulation of the walls.
• How many materials will be required for work.

We will try to give an answer, moreover, in the form of online calculators.

Calculator for calculating the required thickness of insulation

Thermal insulation should be such that the total thermal resistance of the wall is not less than the value established for the given region.

Required to know:

Normalized value of thermal resistance (m²×K/W). You can find it on the map below. The value is taken "for walls".

Map-scheme of the territory of the Russian Federation indicating the normalized values ​​of thermal resistance of building structures

The thickness and material of the wall of the house.

If desired, you can take into account the planned external and internal wall decoration. Some materials can enhance its thermal insulation qualities, which can affect the thickness of the insulation. However, the influence is often not so great, and if you do not want to go into subtleties, you can skip this step.

If all the data is available, you can “go” into the calculator. The result will be shown in millimeters. This is the minimum value, which is then rounded up to standard thicknesses polystyrene boards.

Specify the requested parameters and click
"CALCULATE THE THICKNESS OF THE POLYSTYRENE FOAM FOR THE WALL"

Choose insulation material:

The value of the required resistance to heat transfer FOR WALLS (purple numbers, e.g. 3.25)

SPECIFY THE PARAMETERS OF THE WALL TO BE INSULATED

1000 - to convert to meters

Will it be taken into account exterior finish walls?

Will it be taken into account interior decoration premises?

Specify interior finish material

We figured out the thickness of the plates. Now you need to find out their number. Well, along the way, the necessary volumes of acquisition of other materials.

Calculator for calculating materials for insulation using the "wet facade" technology

Here - everything is simple, the calculation is carried out from the planned area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation. All materials have a traditional margin of 10%.

The calculator lacks only a basement profile and plaster corners for framing corners and openings. But this will have to be measured locally, since each house has its own configuration, and the consumption of these materials does not depend on the surface area of ​​the walls.

An example of wall insulation using the "wet facade" technology - step by step, with comments

Just a small disclaimer. Above, it was mainly about penoplex. An example of insulation using white foam blocks will also be shown here. Let this not confuse the reader - this does not significantly affect the "wet facade" technology. With penoplex, due to the presence of locking edges, it can even be somewhat easier to evenly join the plates during their installation.

But on the other hand, the foam plastic still has some kind of vapor permeability, that is, the risk of getting a damp wall is much lower than when using foam plastic. So there is something to think about.

	Start by preparing the wall. All protrusions and influxes of masonry mortar are removed. Nothing should prevent the insulation board from being pressed tightly against the wall with its entire area.
	Dips, on the contrary, are sealed flush with the common surface. Repair (expansion and subsequent sealing) of cracks and crevices is carried out. Then you have to wait for the solution to dry in the repair areas.
	The surface of the wall must be cleaned of adhering dirt and dust. Old paint is also removed - everything that can harm good adhesion when gluing boards.
	The next step is priming the wall. In this example, a deep penetration primer is used.
	For the first layer on an absorbent surface, it is recommended to dilute the primer with water, approximately 30÷35%. So it is absorbed deeper into the base.
	On large areas, it is convenient to use a sprayer during the initial application of the primer. It turns out much faster. If not, you will have to use a brush or roller.
	With primary priming, it makes little sense to save on a diluted solution. Everything should be moistened abundantly, without leaving gaps. Increased attention, as always, to difficult areas, and in particular to the inner corners.
	After the primary layer is completely absorbed and dried, a second one is applied, but already with a primer in normal concentration. Here it is better to use a wide brush-brush, literally rubbing the composition into the surface of the wall.
	The priming is finished, and after the walls have dried, the basement profile can be fixed. To do this, a perfectly horizontal line must be drawn at the planned height.
	How the base (starting) profile is attached has already been shown and described above. We will not repeat.
	It is recommended to “shuffle” the foam plex plates on both sides a little - walk on them with a special needle roller, a metal brush or a coarse grater. All small sawdust formed in this case must be shaken off.
	Preparing adhesive for plates. It usually has a good “life”, but it still costs as much to knead as it is guaranteed to be used up within about an hour. If it began to seize in a container - that's it, the end, it can no longer be "revive" by any addition of water. And you have to throw away the unspent balance.
	The glue is mixed in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. In this case, the dry mixture is added to the measured amount of water, but not vice versa.
	Mixing is carried out with a construction mixer. A completely homogeneous consistency is achieved, then a pause is given for 5 minutes for ripening, then another vigorous kneading - and the composition is ready to go.
	Glue is applied to the plate. According to what scheme this is done - it was said earlier. The truth is one caveat. Note that the strips along the perimeter are laid out so that their peak height is closer to the middle of the slab. This “trick” will give, after pressing the plate, less solution squeezed out along the edges, which will have to be removed one way or another.
	The slab smeared with glue is put in place and pressed tightly against the wall surface. The illustration shows the installation not on the starting profile, but on the previously made insulation belt of the basement part of the foundation. But this is a particular, not affecting the "general course of events." But a stretched cord for precise control over the horizontality of the laid out row can be a very useful tool.
	Each slab must also be checked for evenness in the vertical plane. If necessary, you have to apply force by tapping on the plate through the gasket - for example, a piece of board.
	The masonry scheme has already been mentioned, so only a few nuances. The illustration shows the interlocking of slabs on the outer corner. How is this done in practice?
	One plate is already glued, and its end exactly coincides with the line of the corner of the building. The second is applied on the adjacent wall with a small protrusion beyond the level of the already mounted plate.
	After the glue has hardened, this protrusion will be easy to cut off with a hacksaw. The next row in this section will be mounted in the opposite sequence.
	An important point - in the area where adjacent plates are joined together (shown in blue shading), there should in no case be glue! And in general, for the future - glue should never be used either to connect adjacent plates, or to fill possible gaps between them. And the plates themselves should only be pressed as tightly as possible to each other.
	And this is the obligatory locking of the plates in the inner corner.
	Do not forget about the rules for framing window and door openings.
	The plates in the example shown are thick. Therefore, where the window tide will be located, the master prudently made a cut at a slight angle.
	Work continues in the same order until the entire area of ​​​​insulated walls is closed. If the height of the walls is large, scaffolding or long tall goats will have to be provided. From the stepladder here - you won’t earn ...
	After mounting the plates, all cracks and gaps are sealed with mounting foam ...
	... the excess of which, after expansion and solidification, is cut off flush with the surface.
	You can immediately check the surface for the presence of small steps, bumps, etc. The attached rule will immediately detect them.
	And they are quite easily eliminated with a grater with coarse-grained sandpaper put on it.
	The entire wall is covered with thermal insulation boards. We are waiting for the glue to dry.
	The next stage is additional mechanical fixation of the plates with dowels - "fungi". A drill of the required diameter is installed on the puncher, a drilling depth limiter is set - the length of the "fungus" plus about 15 mm more.
	A hole is drilled right through the insulation in the wall in the right place - until the limiter stops against the slab.
	A “fungus” is inserted into the hole and slumped by hand until it stops firmly in the slab.
	Then, depending on the design of the "fungus", a central expansion screw is screwed into it or ...
	... or a spacer pin is driven in. If a thermal head (plug of the central hole) is provided, then it is immediately installed in place.
	This is continued over the entire area of ​​​​the wall until all the plates receive the final fixation. You can proceed to plastering.
	The same plaster-adhesive solution is being prepared again. The proportions of cooking are unchanged.
	An important nuance. Remember, there was a conversation about the maximum voltage at the corners of window and door openings? So, so that the finish here does not go cracked, it is recommended not only to lay a solid fragment of the slab, but also to perform additional reinforcement with such diagonal kerchiefs made of fiberglass mesh. The adhesive composition is applied with a layer of 2-3 mm, and pieces of the stack are sunk into it with a trowel, located at an angle of 45 degrees. The edge of the mesh should go along the top of the corner of the opening. This is done on all four corners of window openings, on two - at the door.
	The edges of the slopes are reinforced. First, the master works on the upper side, using a plaster profile with mesh "wings" ...
	... and then, in a similar way - with the rest of the sides along the perimeter of the opening.
	It is recommended to glue an additional reinforcing lining from a piece of mesh into the mortar at the inner corners of the openings.
	Having finished with the openings, go to the corners of the building. The same plaster profile is also used here.
	Next, the reinforcement of the insulated wall surfaces begins. First, a thin, 2 mm, layer of plaster and adhesive is applied. Distributed over the surface. It is not worth capturing too large an area - after all, it will be necessary to glue the grid into it even before setting. Usually they work from top to bottom in strips, based on gluing one or two meter mesh sheets into them (depending on the height of the wall, and on personal experience carrying out such an operation).
	Further, furrows are applied with a notched trowel (trowel). Their direction does not matter - as it will be more convenient. But usually they “plow” them vertically.
	A strip of mesh of the required length is cut off. Its gluing will be carried out from top to bottom. To begin with, the mesh is temporarily fixed in place by simply pressing it against the solution.
	Then, with a wide trowel (spatula), they are pressed into the adhesive layer with force. In no case should there be missing sections.
	The entire mesh must be completely "drown" in the solution, the surface of which will be simultaneously leveled with a trowel. In this case, folds or wrinkles of the mesh should be categorically excluded.
	Having finished with one vertical strip, stick the next one. In this case, the overlap of the strips should be at least 100 mm. On many reinforcing meshes, the boundary of this mandatory overlap is applied. Further - everything is the same: applying a layer of glue, "ploughing" the furrows, fixing the mesh, sinking, etc.
	Reinforcing the inner corners of the walls will not require special profiles. Just about 100 mm of mesh from one wall starts to the second.
	And when the mesh strip is glued to the second wall, then 100 mm starts on the first. Such "counter" reinforcement gives a very good result. The main thing is that jams and bubbles do not form.
	Here is such a neat angle should learn in the end.
	Work continues in the same order. Along window and door openings, mesh strips should overlap with mesh "wings" of previously glued plaster profiles.
	The reinforcing plaster layer must be given time to dry, but usually not more than a day - it is dangerous to tighten. And so that it does not crack, especially in hot weather, it should be periodically moistened with water, for example, from a spray bottle or garden sprayer, which gives very small drops.
	After a day, you can check the quality of the resulting surface. If there are small sagging, protruding irregularities, then they can be carefully removed. But not with an abrasive grater (it is so easy to damage the mesh), but simply with a spatula, acting like a scraper.
	You can check the surface for the presence of "dips" - using the proposed rule.
	If such are found, then it is easy, if necessary, to bring them to the general level with a small portion of the solution, ironed by the rule.
	Next, they begin to apply the last, leveling layer of the same plaster and adhesive composition. And again, it is better to start with slopes, having finally given them a neat appearance.
	Next, move on to the walls. As already mentioned, a layer of approximately 2 mm should be applied for further decorative plastering. For coloring, a little more is better - 3 ÷ 4 mm.
	Naturally, when applying this layer, they try to smooth the surface as much as possible, to prepare it for the subsequent “decoration”. But to be honest, this is already a transition to the field of decoration, that is, it is beyond the scope of our consideration.

So, in the article, the principles of insulation of external walls using the “wet facade” technology were considered. The task is not easy, but still feasible even for the one who undertakes it for the first time. The main thing is strict adherence to the recommendations and a full study of each technological operation.

But we repeat once again: external wall insulation with polystyrene foam is very far from optimal and fraught with many risks. You should think ten times before making such a decision. A much more reliable material for a wet facade is basalt wool - special blocks of increased density, which are also easily glued to the wall surface, and then plastered.

To make the warning clearer, watch a short video. And be sure to check out the comments as well. There are many opinions, but the general meaning will probably become clear.

Video: Is it worth using penoplex on the facade?

Works of this stage:

• from material (Glue)

Works of this stage:

Works of this stage:

• Glue the insulation to the wall.

Works of this stage:

• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• Finish off the metal nails in the dowels.

• controlled parameters (design position, horizontal fastening, thickness and cohesion of the adhesive layer in accordance with the normative and technical documentation and this map). Layer thickness - 10-15 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Finish off metal nails or bolts in dowels.

• from the material (Insulation mineral wool board, glue, dowel, metal nails)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• Finish off the metal nails in the dowels.

• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the end and outer plane of the mineral wool board.
• Remove excess mixture

• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• Remove excess mixture

• from a tool (Spatulas, brushes, trowels, trowels, a grinding bar with a pressure device, rule rails)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the plane of the insulation boards.
• Remove excess adhesive mass.

• control method (Visual)

Works of this stage:

• control method (Visual)

Works of this stage:

• Applying plaster.

• material (Paint)
• control method (Visual)

Works of this stage:

• control method (Visual)

Works of this stage:

Facade insulation with foam plastic

• Advantages and disadvantages of foam
• Facade wall preparation
• Mounting the plinth profile
• Installation of insulation boards
• How to glue insulation on the walls?
• Fixing the insulation with dowels
• Waterproof reinforced layer and its device
• Installation of perforated corners
• Creation of the main reinforcing layer
• Tips & Tricks
• Facade painting
• How to determine the cost of materials for the insulation of facades with foam plastic

This article will tell you in detail about how to perform facade insulation, what nuances and materials you need to choose. Here you will find a description of the stages of work when performing external thermal insulation Houses. We will tell you about the pros and cons of polystyrene foam, how to properly prepare the surface in order to get an excellent result. This article describes in an accessible and understandable way the process of properly fixing the basement profile, the beginning of installation work on the insulation of the house. We took into account all the possible nuances so that you can easily learn how to work on thermal insulation of the room.

Specialists in the development of thermal insulation structures have long been working on the question of how to minimize the possibility of heat loss during the construction of buildings. Solving this problem will lead to a significant reduction in economic costs.

Technologies are constantly developing, thanks to which the optimal solution to the issue of building insulation has now been found. The method of bonded thermal insulation has been used for a long time. This technology is constantly being improved. Specialists conduct research, create new manuals and technological maps. Many countries have developed and launched energy saving programs. They are based on the idea of ​​"wet" external insulation of houses that were built earlier.

For the bonded thermal insulation method, materials with high thermal performance are used. They are made in the form of mats and plates. For example, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, mineral wool. The works performed using these materials are identical. Only slightly different installation technology.

More often than others, foam is used for insulation. This is due to the low cost of the material, low thermal conductivity, good performance characteristics. Due to the fact that the material has a low weight, it is possible to effectively and inexpensively insulate any buildings. When using polystyrene foam, there is no need to strengthen the supporting structures and strengthen the foundation.

Problems with the insulation of the external facade can only arise with the wrong choice of materials or gross technological errors. Consider the step-by-step process of warming a house with foam.

Using foam: advantages and disadvantages

Experience shows that there are no materials that do not have drawbacks. Polyfoam is no exception. Along with a lot of positive qualities, it also has negative ones. Let's consider both.

styrofoam is a good insulator

Advantages when insulating the facade with foam plastic:

• profitability when using the material in comparison with other heat insulators;
• good thermal conductivity;
• when using foam, vapor barrier is not required;
• the material does not absorb moisture;
• polystyrene is durable in use;
• material is not affected by microorganisms
• The heater is easy to install.

Cons when insulating the facade with foam:

• flammability;
• when burning, it emits acrid smoke, which is very toxic;
• easily spoiled by small rodents.

As you can see from the above list, there are many more positives than negatives. Therefore, insulating the facade with foam, you make the right choice.

The process of thermal insulation using foam is not complicated. It is necessary to study the main stages, select the necessary tools and Consumables. Please note that they should be designed specifically for external finishing work.

First of all, you need to find out the amount of foam required to insulate the house. It's easy to find out, you just need to measure the outer area of ​​the building. It is important to correctly calculate the zero point for each specific case.

If the goal is to insulate a residential building, then experts advise buying foam sheets with a thickness of 25-45 mm. With thermal insulation industrial facilities for walls, you need to use a heater with a thickness of at least 60 mm, for roofs - 80 mm.

Important point! If you incorrectly calculated the zero point, then dampness may accumulate inside the room. It can cause mold bad smell and high humidity. Pay attention to the density of the material when insulating the facade. Use the recommendations of experts.

warming pie

The main stages in the insulation of walls with foam:

1. Wall to be insulated.
2. Glue (adhesive material).
3. Socle profile.
4. Polystyrene boards.
5. Mesh and dowels.
6. Primer layer.
7. decorative layer.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the facade with foam plastic occurs in the following order:

• walls need to be prepared;
• mount the base profile;
• perform the installation of foam;
• seal the seams;
• carry out plastering of the facade;
• apply a leveling layer.

For fast and high-quality work, prepare all materials and tools in advance.

You need the following materials:

1. polystyrene or polystyrene foam;
2. primer for outdoor work;
3. glue for foam;
4. plinth profile;
5. building polyurethane foam;
6. putty;
7. reinforced mesh;
8. notched and smooth spatula;
9. hammer;
10. dish-shaped dowels;
11. perforator;
12. plastic grater for grouting.

Facade wall preparation stage

Due to how well the preparation of the walls will be performed, the functionality and durability of the thermal insulation produced depends. This is one of the most time-consuming and painstaking stages in the work. But without doing it, you are not insulating the building properly.

Start by freeing the wall from all protruding objects: window sills, air conditioning units, ventilation grills, storm gutters, lighting fixtures, etc. If communications fall into the wall plane, they should also be removed. When insulating old buildings, the front side often has decorative elements. For high-quality insulation, they will have to be eliminated.

Check the strength of the exterior finish if the walls have been previously plastered. Tap her. Determine if there are vertical deviations in the surface. To do this, use a plumb line or cord. If there are any, then mark them with chalk. Often at this stage, significant level differences and weaknesses in the plaster are revealed. If such problems are found, then they need to be fixed. At least to dismantle a bad layer of plaster. Concrete sags can be removed with a chisel.

Cracks and potholes on the wall are primed using compounds penetrating deep inside. This is done with the help of macros. After the mortar dries, it must be puttied with a cement-based mixture. Cracks, the width of which does not exceed 2 mm, can be left unsealed. Local depressions on the wall must be eliminated by gluing a piece of wall insulation to them.

Important point! The base, which has an unevenness of more than 15 mm, must be primed, then leveled with a plaster composition.

After it has been carried out preliminary preparation walls, the surfaces are leveled and dried, the outer brackets are lengthened, plastering, pouring screeds, waterproofing are done - you can proceed to the final priming of the surface and start insulating the facade with foam plastic with your own hands.

Important point! If you plan to place communications under the foam plastic, then in order to avoid possible damage during further doweling of the insulation, mark their paths. You can also take photos by attaching an expanded tape measure to the building envelope.

We fix the base profiles, the starting bar

we fix the base profile - the starting bar

Based on the project, it is necessary to determine the lower point of the plane that you are insulating. Then, using the hydraulic level, you need to transfer this mark to all corners of the structure, both external and internal. Connect them with coated thread or cord. You will have a starting line. By marking, start installing the base profile. With it, the first row of foam boards will be held, since they can easily move on wet glue. Choose the size of the starting bar, it should be the same as the width of the insulation. Attach it to six-millimeter dowels at intervals of 250-350 mm. It is recommended to put washers on a hammered “quick nail”. Join the corners of the starting bar using the method of oblique cuts, you can use the corner connector. Put between the parts of the base profiles connecting elements from plastic. They compensate for thermal expansion.

Important point! Never overlap the plinth profile.

Installation of foam on the walls

First, prepare the adhesive composition. It must be used immediately. Already 2 hours after kneading, the prepared mass will thicken. Therefore, prepare the glue in the amount that is necessary for the work at the moment. Use a large plastic bucket or basin. Pour the amount of water specified in the instructions into it. Slowly pour in the dry mixture, constantly stirring with a drill equipped with special nozzles at low speed. The mixed solution should stand for 5 minutes. Then use the drill with the nozzle again. If the mixture thickens during operation, then just stir it well.

Important point! Do not use water to thin thickened adhesive. Read the adhesive manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Applying adhesive to foam boards

Apply glue to foam boards

A certain method of applying glue is chosen, depending on which difference on the plane needs to be compensated. With unevenness up to 15 mm, the adhesive is applied along the perimeter of the plate, retreating 20 mm from the edge. The width of the applied strip is about 20 mm. In the middle of the slab, pointwise apply 5-7 beacons 100 mm in diameter.

Glue is applied around the perimeter and in the middle of the slab if the base defects are 10 mm or less. The width of the strip is 25-45 mm. Glue during installation should cover a little more than half of the foam sheet. Remember that at the moment of pressing, the adhesive mixture will be distributed between the wall and the insulation.

If the insulation plate is installed on a flat surface, the difference of which is not more than 5 mm, then the insulation can be smeared with a continuous layer. Use a notched trowel-comb for this (tooth 10 * 10 mm).

Important point! Apply intermittent strips of glue. This is necessary to prevent the formation of closed air pockets.

How to glue insulation on the walls?

We glue the insulation

Within 20 minutes after you have applied the mixture, the slab must be glued. Attach the sheet to the desired location with a slight offset (20-30 mm). Then press with a long trowel or a rule into the plane of adjacent plates. Excess adhesive from the surface of the foam base must be removed immediately. Check with a level each glued sheet. Using a thread, it is convenient to control the direction of the plane. Press the sheets tightly against each other, 2 mm is the maximum distance between the plates. If during installation gaps greater than this value were formed, then they must be sealed with strips of insulation and foam should be used. The difference at the joints can be no more than 3 mm in thickness.

Important point! Do not move the board after gluing. Otherwise, you risk breaking the strength of the connection with the wall surface. If you need to re-glue the sheet, then remove it, peel off the glue, apply a new layer of the mixture and re-glue.

Start installing the foam from the bottom up. Sheets of the first row should rest against the basement profile. Therefore, it must be set perfectly evenly relative to the wall surface. Usually, it is most convenient to start with the installation of the first and last rows of plates, and pull a control thread along their outer upper edge, which will help to glue the remaining sheets.

The next row of slabs should have vertical joints tied up. Their offset must be in relation to the previous one with a value of at least 200 mm. It is best to use the "chess" order of laying foam sheets. This will provide them with additional reliability.

align the foam using a level or rule

Make sure that the joints located near the doors and windows do not fall in line with the slopes on the sides. Try to make the connection under the opening or above it, with an offset of at least 200 mm. Elements that have L-shape, do a good job of preventing the formation of cracks that go from the corners to the opening.

If there are junctions of different materials on the wall (for example, a brick wall turns into a wooden one), then the foam plates should not have joints in this place. Move the seam at least 100 mm. The same rule must be followed when insulating areas in places where recessed or protruding parts of the facade are located under one plane.

Produce scalloped joining of slabs at façade corners, both internal and external. There will be no formation of a long vertical seam if the insulation of the extreme rows wedges into the plane of adjacent surfaces. Mount the plates of external corners and slopes with an outlet, the size of which will be sufficient for dressing. After the corner is formed, the foam can be cut and sanded. Trim the material using a metal ruler and a square. Use a knife with a wide blade or a saw with a thin blade and small teeth. So you can cut the foam exactly.

Proper fastening of insulation near window and door openings

When insulating slopes, join the plates with door and window frames. Use an adjoining profile or polyurethane foam sealing tape. Glue it to the box, squeeze it with insulation to half its thickness. At the window, which is located in the plane of the facade, the heat-insulating material should go slightly beyond the frame (at least 20 mm). Also seal the box with sealing tape.

Mount the foam with a gap of 10-12 mm if the wall has a seam with deformation. After that, put a tourniquet of polyethylene foam into it, having a circular cross section. Squeeze 30% of the original diameter. When performing facade insulation with foam plastic with your own hands, it is convenient to have seals of various thicknesses.

The stage of fixing heat-insulating plates with dowels

After the glue has completely set (usually at least 3 days), you can proceed to the stage of fixing the foam with dowels. For this purpose, special fasteners are used.

Proper fastening of the foam to the facade using dowels

scheme for fixing the insulation with dowels, 4/6/8 it all depends on the size of the plate

made of high strength flexible plastic. Such dowels have a wide hat made in the form of an umbrella, perforation and a driven nail made of plastic. Depending on the thickness of the foam sheet and the characteristics of the base, they select desired length fasteners. The umbrella should go into a brick by 90 mm, into concrete - 50 mm, into a block with a cellular structure - 120 mm.

Most often, fastening is performed in the center of the plate and at its corners. The calculation is 6-8 fasteners per 1 m2. Additional dowels are installed near door slopes, window openings, at the corners of the building, in the basement area. Place them 200 mm from the edge of the sheet. The number of additional fasteners depends on the dimensions of the building, the dimensions of the foam boards, and the characteristics of the dowel.

Using a puncher, drill a hole. Remove dust from it. Experts advise making recesses longer than the fastener rod itself by 10-15 mm. Insert the dowel and hammer it into the hole rubber mallet. Or screw the pin with a screwdriver. The head of the fastener should be flush with the surface of the insulation sheet. The maximum protrusion is no more than 1 mm.

Important point! Do not use dowels with a metal shank. They can lead to the formation of cold bridges. If during clogging the head of the rod is damaged, then drown it completely in the insulation, seal the top with sealant. Next to the damaged mount, make another one. Install umbrellas strictly perpendicular to the plane of the wall surface. Check the tensile strength of the fastening.

Waterproof reinforced layer and its device

Perform auxiliary mesh layers that will enhance the reliability of the structure.

With the help of reinforcing patches of reinforcing mesh, it is necessary to glue the corners of window and door openings. Make patches of at least 200x300 mm. Performing this procedure will avoid cracks that occur at the inner corner of the opening. The installation of the main reinforcing layer is no different from the installation of the mesh reinforcement.

Installation stage of perforated corners

Installation of perforated corners on insulation

It is necessary to strengthen all the outer corners of the building, slopes, protruding decorative elements. For this, plastic or aluminum perforated corners are used. They come with mesh strips already attached to them. Glue is applied to both sides of the corner. The width of the strip must touch the mesh so that it also sticks. After that, the perforated corner trimmed as necessary is pressed against the insulation sheet with a spatula. Using the level, the angle is set horizontally and vertically. The glue that has come out of the holes in the grid cells is smoothed over the surface of the wall. It is necessary to connect the perforated corners end-to-end, while cutting off part of the shelf and the grid from the edge of the profile at an angle of 45 °. If necessary, the corner can be fixed, aligned, stretched. To do this, insert nails into the insulation through the holes. After gluing, they can be removed.

The stage of creating the main reinforcing layer

After the additional layers have dried, and all the reinforcement elements have been fixed, you can begin the installation of the main mesh.

The reinforcing mesh is glued with an overlap of about 10 cm

In order to strengthen the heat-insulating material, a special mesh is used, designed to work with the facade. It is made of fiberglass, low stretch and alkali resistant, which is able to withstand a load of about 1.25 kN per strip 50 mm wide.

The mixture used to protect the insulation and mount the reinforcing mesh is different from the one used to glue the plates. But the principle of preparing the solution remains the same. You must slowly pour the dry matter into the water. Then mix the solution thoroughly using a drill with special tips.

Sand the glued sheets using hand graters with sandpaper. This will eliminate the differences at the joints of the plates. Before applying the mortar, make sure that the surface is properly cleaned of dirt, dust and sanding residues.

Cut the mesh into strips of the same height. On the surface of the wall, carefully apply the adhesive solution with a layer, the thickness of which should be about 2 mm. Use a metal trowel or grater for this. The prepared mesh must be unwound over the entire length of the surface smeared with glue, applied to the solution, pressed using a grater or a nasty metal staple. Smooth out the fabric, starting from the middle. Move carefully towards the edges. Smooth out excess glue on the surface of the walls.

Important point! Do not press the mesh against the insulation, place it in the middle of the layer.

Apply a second coat of mortar to the newly bonded wire mesh. The thickness of the mixture must be at least 2 mm. It is necessary to leave an edge 100 mm thick in order to be able to apply the next strip of mesh. Carefully level the new layer of adhesive. If you did everything correctly, then the grid should not be visible through it in the finished form. Apply the mixture to the surface next to the glued reinforced fabric. The next strip of mesh should cover the previous one by 100 mm. Next, continue to apply glue to the surface and apply a reinforced mesh to it.

We strengthen the reinforcing mesh near windows and doors

The next day after laying the reinforced canvas, it should not dry out completely. It was then that it must be sanded using sandpaper. If it is necessary to re-align, additional adhesive mass can be used. But you should wait until the first layer of reinforced mesh coated with glue is completely dry.

After three days, the reinforced walls should dry completely. They need to be treated with a soil mixture that contains quartz sand. It will provide a high degree of adhesion for the layers that will be applied in the future. In addition, it will be easier to apply decorative plaster. How to do this correctly will be discussed in the following articles.

• Carry out work on wall insulation in the described way at a temperature of +5 to +25 degrees. Humidity should not exceed 80%. Protect work surfaces from exposure to precipitation, sunlight, wind. Use solid curtains from scaffolding or thick mesh stretched over the top.
• Install scaffolding securely. Leave a distance from the building of 200-300 mm. Such structures provide access to any section of the wall and several meters of surfaces adjacent to it. Scaffolding is erected in such a way that an unhindered opportunity to carry out any technological work is provided.
• Using masking tape, perform work on gluing door and window frames. Note also polyethylene film. Cover the blind areas and the porch of the building with it or with pieces of cardboard. After finishing painting work, remove the tape immediately.
• Thermal insulation material must not be stored under the sun. Also, keep it away from snow and rain.
• If you covered the wall with foam and do not apply a reinforced layer for a long time, then the insulation boards may turn yellow. If this happens, then use sandpaper to clean up the yellow surface.
• Start warming from the wall, which is the least noticeable. If any defects occur, they can be corrected without compromising the appearance of the building. You will also be able to work out the procedure and process technology.
• If it so happened that the work must be left for the winter, protect the insulation. Be sure to apply a reinforcing layer, cover with a primer containing quartz sand. To protect horizontal planes, install window sills and all necessary metal elements.
• Try not to interrupt work on one wall, or at least complete the "wet" steps of the process. Especially when it comes to reinforcement and finishing.
• When applying the bonded thermal insulation method, use only specialized consumables. Choose foam designed specifically for outdoor use. It has a certain density index - 25kg / m3. Insulation for the facade has different vapor permeability and fire resistance values ​​than other types of thermal insulation material. Mortars for installation must not be replaced by mixtures for ceramic tiles. Alkali-resistant mesh should be specially designed to perform external works. To fix the insulation, buy only high-quality dowels. Experts advise using all consumables from one manufacturer. Don't forget to read the instructions for use.

Performing facade painting

After the finish layer has dried, you can paint the surface. Use for this any paint that is designed for outdoor work. It is convenient and economical to use a soft foam roller for work.

By insulating the building in this way, you get the effect of a thermos. That is, in cold weather, the house will always remain warm.

How to determine the cost of materials for the insulation of facades with foam plastic

Well, the most interesting in the end. Of course, it is difficult to say how much the materials will cost you. It all depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200binsulation and the region of residence.

As an example, I can give an approximate price for the cost of thermal insulation of a wall of 50 sq.m. for Moscow and the Moscow region. Considering the cost of the insulation itself, glue, profiles, etc., the average amount will be $ 1,100.

If you want to know the price, I advise you to take a newspaper with ads and call a couple. I'm sure prices won't differ much. For one and talk to experts live, get additional information and calculate the budget.

This article will help you do the insulation of the facade with foam plastic with your own hands and avoid additional costs. Now you can handle these tasks on your own.

1. The first step in the facade insulation technology is the preparation of the surface of the walls of the facade itself.

For step 1 you will need the following:

• from a tool (metal brushes, a vacuum cleaner, a scraper, a high pressure with heated water, trowels, graters and semi-graters, trowels, rollers, paint sprayers, slats, rules, plumb lines).
• from materials (polymer cement and cement-sand mortars grades 100-150, penetrating primer).
• control methods (visual, measuring - rail, plumb, level).
• controlled parameters (Surface evenness, absence of cracks, shells. Uniformity of surface priming, conformity of the choice of primer to the type of base). Thickness of layers - in 1 layer no more than 0,5 mm. Drying time - at least 3 hours.

Works of this stage:

• Mechanical cleaning threw. brushes from dirt and dust. In the case of concrete walls, the removal of concrete and cement laitance smudges. Leveling surface irregularities, sealing cracks, depressions, sinks, recesses with polymer cement mortar M-100, 150. In the case of repair and restoration work, old (convex) plaster or tiles are removed, the facade is plastered with cement-sand mortar M-100.
• Priming the surface with a primer.
• Dilution with water penetrating primer 1:7

2. The second stage is the preparation of the adhesive mass.

For step 2 you will need the following:

• from material (Glue)
• from the tool (Container with a volume of at least 10 liters. Mixer, drill and special nozzles, buckets)
• control method (Visual, laboratory)
• controlled parameters (dosage of components, compliance of adhesive masses, (uniformity, mobility, adhesive strength, etc.) requirements of technical specifications).

Works of this stage:

• Open a standard 25 kg bag of dry mix.
• - In a clean container, the volume of which is at least 10 liters, pour 5 liters of water (from +15 to +20 ° C) and, adding the dry mixture in small portions to the water, mix it with a low-speed drill with a special nozzle until a homogeneous creamy mass is obtained.
• - After a 5-minute break, mix the finished adhesive mass again.
• - Preparation of the adhesive mass is carried out at an air temperature of +5°C and above.

3. The third stage is the installation of the first row of insulation using a basement profile

For step 3 you will need the following:

• from the material (basement profile, anchors, mineral wool insulation
• glue metal nails, bolts, dowels)
• from a tool (Electric wrenches, hammers, plumb lines, theodolite - level, knives, metal rulers, serrated and smooth spatulas, a device for cutting plates, hammers, tape measures, plumb lines, theodolite - level)
• control method (Visual, measuring optical (by level))
• controlled parameters (Design position, horizontal fastening, layer thickness in accordance with the Technical Certificate). The layer thickness is 10-15 mm, drying time is 24 hours.

Works of this stage:

• Set the base profile horizontal to zero.
• The profile should be fastened with anchors or dowels in accordance with the Technical Certificate.
• Alignment of the wall to produce special plastic gaskets.
• The profile is connected using special gaskets that are part of the system.
• Cut mineral wool boards (insulation) into strips of 300 mm to install the first row of insulation.
• Apply the adhesive mass with a notched trowel in a continuous layer on a strip of mineral wool board.
• Glue the insulation to the wall.
• After 48-72 hours, drill a hole in the wall for the dowel through the insulation strip and install it (the distance from the edge of the strip to the dowel is 100 mm, and between the dowels is not more than 300 mm).
• Finish off the metal nails in the dowels.
• Caulk the seams between the strips of mineral wool boards with scraps of insulation

4. Installation of a standard range of insulation from PSB-S-25F

For step 4 you will need the following:

• from material (Glue "Thermomax 100K", insulation, PSB-S-25F, dowel, metal nails)
• from the tool (See above, Grinding stones, with a pressure device)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (design position, thickness of the adhesive layer, absence of gaps of more than two mm between the insulation boards, gear ligation, adhesive strength of the adhesive layer to the base surface and to the surface of the insulation, the number of dowels per 1 sq.m, the fixation strength of the dowels, the depth .). Layer thickness - 10-15 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the adhesive mass on the PSB-S-25F slab in one of three ways, which are indicated in the instructions for use, depending on the curvature of the walls.
• Glue the PSB-S25F slab to the wall (with dressing for ½ of the slab relative to the bottom row of insulation).
• After 48-72 hours, drill a hole in the wall for the dowel through the PSB-S-25F slab and install it depending on the number of storeys of the building and the type of foundation.
• Finish off metal nails or bolts in dowels.
• Caulk the seams between the insulation boards with insulation scraps.
• Make sanding of the installed plates PSB-S-25

Stage 4.1: Installation of cuts from a mineral wool board between floors

For step 4.1 you will need the following:

• from the material (Insulation mineral wool board, glue, dowel, metal nails)
• from the tool (Tapes, plumb lines, level, knives, metal rulers, notched and smooth spatulas, electric wrenches, hammers, tape measures)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (design position, horizontal fastening, thickness and cohesion of the adhesive layer in accordance with the normative and technical documentation and this map). Layer thickness - 10-15 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Cut the mineral wool board into 200mm strips.
• Apply the adhesive mass to the entire plane of the insulation strip with a notched trowel.
• Glue the insulation to the wall at the level of the upper slope of the window of each floor with a continuous strip.
• After 48-72 hours, drill a hole in the wall for the dowel through the insulation strip and install it (the number of dowels is 3 pcs per one strip, the distance from the edge of the strip to the dowel is 100 mm and between the dowels is not more than 300 mm).
• Finish off the metal nails in the dowels.
• To caulk the seams between the PSB-S-25F mineral wool boards with scraps of insulation.

Stage 4.2: Installation of a standard range of mineral wool insulation

For step 4.2 you will need the following:

• from the material (Insulation mineral wool board, glue, dowel, metal nails, bolts)
• from the tool (Tapes, plumb lines, level, knives, metal rulers, notched and smooth spatulas, electric wrenches, hammers, tape measures)
• control method (Visual, measuring)
• controlled parameters (design position, horizontal fastening, thickness and cohesion of the adhesive layer in accordance with the normative and technical documentation and this map). Layer thickness - 10-15 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the adhesive mass to the mineral wool board in one of the three ways indicated in the instructions, depending on the unevenness of the walls.
• Glue the mineral wool slab to the wall (with ligation of the slabs relative to the lower row of insulation).
• After 48-72 hours, drill a hole in the wall for the dowel through the insulation plate and install it, depending on the number of storeys of the building and the type of foundation.
• Finish off metal nails or bolts in dowels.

Stage 5 Installation of fire breaks around window and door openings.

For step 5 you will need the following:

• from the material (Insulation mineral wool board, glue, dowel, metal nails)
• from a tool (Metal rulers, notched and smooth spatulas, a tool for cutting insulation boards)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (design position, continuity and thickness of the adhesive layer, the width of the cuts, the absence of gaps of more than two mm between the insulation plates, the installation scheme of the insulation at the tops of the corners of the openings (“boots”), the number of dowels, the anchoring depth of the dowel in the base, the strength of fixation in the base) . Layer thickness - 10-15 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Cut the insulation into strips with a width equal to or more than 150 mm
• Apply the adhesive mass in a continuous layer on a strip of mineral wool board with a notched trowel.
• Install strips of mineral wool board around the perimeter of the window according to the typical system assembly.
• After 48-72 hours, drill a hole in the wall through the strips of mineral wool board under the dowel and install it (the number of dowels is 3 pcs. per one strip, the distance from the edge of the strip to the dowel is 100mm and between the dowels is not more than 300mm).
• Finish off the metal nails in the dowels.
• Caulk the seams between the plates and trimmings of the insulation

Stage 6 Reinforcement of building corners, window and door openings

For step 6 you will need the following:

• material (Universal elastic compound, plastic corner)
• from a tool (Metal rulers, notched and smooth spatulas, a tool for cutting plates and insulation)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters ( Appearance, straightness of the surface). Layer thickness - 3-5 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the end and outer plane of the mineral wool board.
• Install plastic corner on the insulation at the corners of the building, window and door openings.

Stage 7. Application of a reinforcing layer on window and door slopes

For step 7 you will need the following:

• material (universal elastic mixture, reinforcing mesh)
• from a tool (Spatulas, trowels, brushes, trowels, a grinding bar with a pressure device, rule rails)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (appearance, availability of additional mesh layers). Layer thickness - 3-5 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the end and outer plane of the mineral wool board.
• Drown the previously glued corner reinforcing mesh into the freshly applied mixture.
• Remove excess mixture
• After the first layer has dried, glue additional strips of diagonal reinforcing mesh (kerchiefs) at the corners of window, door and other openings

Stage 8. Installation of an anti-vandal base layer for the first floors of a building

For step 8 you will need the following:

• made of material (universal elastic mixture, shell mesh)
• from a tool (Spatulas, brushes, trowels, trowels, a grinding bar with a pressure device, rule rails)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (total thickness of the reinforcing layer in accordance with the technical certificate, the width of the overlap, the presence of additional diagonal overlays at the tops of the corners of the openings). Layer thickness - 3 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the plane of the insulation boards.
• Drown the armored mesh without gaps in the freshly laid mixture. The connection of the panzer mesh web is mounted end-to-end, without overlap.
• Remove excess mixture

Stage 9 Applying a reinforcing layer on the plane of the insulation

For step 9 you will need the following:

• from material (Universal elastic mixture, ordinary reinforcing mesh)
• from a tool (Spatulas, brushes, trowels, trowels, a grinding bar with a pressure device, rule rails)
• method of control (Visual, measuring, input control of materials)
• controlled parameters (Total thickness of the reinforcing layer in accordance with the Technical Certificate, overlap width, the presence of additional diagonal overlays at the tops of the corners of the openings). Layer thickness - 4 mm. Drying time - 1 day.

Works of this stage:

• Apply the mixture to the plane of the insulation boards.
• Drown into the freshly laid adhesive mass an ordinary reinforcing mesh without gaps, with an overlap of sheets of at least 100 mm at vertical and horizontal joints.
• Remove excess adhesive mass.
• Apply adhesive mass for leveling on the dried surface of the reinforcing layer, completely covering the reinforcing mesh and creating a smooth surface.
• After the leveling layer has dried, smooth out the irregularities with sandpaper.

10 stage. Primer for decorative finishing

For step 10 you will need the following:

• from material (Quartz primer)
• from a tool (roller, spray guns, compressor, paint gun)
• control method (Visual)
• controlled parameters (primer uniformity, primer conformity). Layer thickness - 0.5 mm. Drying time - at least 3 hours.

Works of this stage:

• Prepare the primer composition for work.
• Dust off the plastered surface.
• Apply the primer manually by roller or mechanically over the entire surface without gaps in one coat.

Stage 11: Applying decorative plaster

For step 11 you will need the following:

• from material (decorative mixture)
• from a tool (Stainless steel grater, plastic grater)
• control method (Visual)
• controlled parameters (no transitions, uniform smoothing, crumb). Layer thickness - 2.5-3 mm. Drying time - 7 days.

Works of this stage:

• Preparation of mortar mixture. (see item 2).
• Applying plaster.

Stage 11.1: Painting the decorative protective layer

For step 11.1 you will need the following:

• material (Paint)
• from the tool (Rollers, paint installations)
• control method (Visual)
• controlled parameters (Uniformity of color, uniformity, docking of sections). Layer thickness - 2 layers no more than 0.5 mm. Drying time - 5 hours.

Works of this stage:

Prepare the paint composition for work.

Apply the paint composition manually with a roller or mechanically, twice covering the entire primed surface.

Stage 12: Sealing the joints between the insulation system and the building structure

For step 12 you will need the following:

• of material (sealing cord, sealant)
• from the tool (Spatulas, sealant gun)
• control method (Visual)
• controlled parameters (no cracks, coating thickness)

Works of this stage:

• The gaps between the insulation system and the building structure are filled with a sealing cord along the entire length of the seam, and sealed with polyurethane sealant.

Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation

State educational institution of higher professional education

"ROSTOV STATE CONSTRUCTION UNIVERSITY"

Department of Construction Technology

course project

according to the technology of building production

"Development of a technological map for the insulation of the facade surfaces of the walls of buildings in operation with the installation of a protective and finishing coating of reinforced plasters"

Completed:

student group EUN -320

Emelyanova O. A.

Accepted by teacher:

Associate Professor, Candidate of Technical Sciences Dukhanin P.V.

Rostov-on-Don

2 Organization and technology of the construction process 6

2.1 Preparation of the object and requirements for the readiness of previous work 6

2.5 Working methods and techniques of workers 17

2.5.1 Inspection and surface preparation 17

Installers using a rail and a plumb line determine the deviation of the base from the vertical and indicate the direction of the slopes. 17

2.5.2 Preparing the workplace 17

2.6 Duration of storage and stock of materials and structures 17

Dowels and others fasteners are located in the utility room. Thermal insulation boards are brought in and stored in the utility room. It is necessary to provide a supply of materials for 2 days. 17

2.7 Features of processing openings, corners and other junctions 17

2.7.1 Basement of building 17

2.7.2 Corner edges 18

2.7.3 Adjacency to parapets, cornices 18

2.7.4 Machining openings 19

3. Quality control of works 19

4. Material and technical resources 21

4.1 Need for materials and products 21

4.2 Machinery, fixtures, inventory, tools 22

5.1 Safety requirements for the operation of scaffolding (excerpt from SNiP 12.03.2001 part 1) 25

5.2 Safety requirements for the use of electrical appliances (excerpt from SNiP 12.03.2001 part 1) 33

6.4.1 The device and operation of electrical installations must be carried out in accordance with the requirements of the rules for the installation of electrical installations, intersectoral labor protection rules for the operation of electrical installations of consumers, the rules for the operation of electrical installations of consumers.

6.4.2 The installation and maintenance of temporary and permanent electrical networks in the production area should be carried out by electrical personnel with the appropriate qualification group for electrical safety.

6.4.3 Wiring of temporary power networks up to 1000 V used for power supply construction objects, must be made with insulated wires or cables on supports or structures designed for mechanical strength when laying wires and cables over them, at a height above ground level, flooring not less than, m:

3.5 - over the aisles;

6.0 - over driveways;

2.5 - over jobs.

6.4.4 Lamps for general lighting with a voltage of 127 and 220 V must be installed at a height of at least 2.5 m from the level of the ground, floor, decking.
With a suspension height of less than 2.5 m, it is necessary to use lamps of a special design or use a voltage not higher than 42 V. The supply of lamps with voltage up to 42 V must be carried out from step-down transformers, machine converters, batteries.
It is forbidden to use autotransformers, chokes and rheostats for these purposes. Cases of step-down transformers and their secondary windings must be grounded.
It is forbidden to use stationary lamps as hand lamps. Only commercially manufactured hand lamps should be used.

6.4.5 Switches, knife switches and other electrical switching devices used on outdoors or in wet shops, must be in a protected design in accordance with the requirements of state standards.

6.4.6 All electric starting devices must be placed so that the possibility of starting machines, mechanisms and equipment by unauthorized persons is excluded. It is forbidden to turn on several pantographs with one starting device.
Switchboards and circuit breakers must have locking devices.

6.4.7 Plug sockets for rated currents up to 20 A, located outdoors, as well as similar plug sockets located indoors, but intended to power portable electrical equipment and hand tools used outdoors, must be protected by residual current devices (RCD) with operation current not more than 30 mA, or each socket must be powered by an individual isolating transformer with a secondary winding voltage of not more than 42 V.

6.4.8 Sockets and plugs used in networks with voltage up to 42 V must have a design different from the design of sockets and plugs with voltage over 42 V.

6.4.9 Metal scaffolding, metal fencing of the work site, shelves and trays for laying cables and wires, rail tracks for cranes and Vehicle with an electric drive, housings of equipment, machines and mechanisms with an electric drive must be grounded (grounded) in accordance with applicable standards immediately after they are installed in place, before any work is started.

6.4.10 Current-carrying parts of electrical installations must be isolated, fenced or placed in places inaccessible to accidental contact with them.

6.4.11 Protection electrical networks and electrical installations in the production area from overcurrents should be provided by fuses with calibrated fuses or circuit breakers in accordance with the rules for electrical installations.

6.4.12 The admission of personnel of construction and installation organizations to work in existing installations and a security power line must be carried out in accordance with intersectoral rules on labor protection during the operation of consumer electrical installations.

The preparation of the workplace and the admission to work of seconded personnel are carried out in all cases by the electrical personnel of the operating organization.
34

1 area of ​​use

1.1 Characteristics of the building and its structures

The technological map was developed for the performance of work on the insulation of the outer walls of a 7-storey residential building with dimensions in terms of 32.1 * 11 and a height of 27.5 m. The work is carried out in cramped conditions without resettling the residents of the house. The project provides for the location of thermal insulation on the outside without an air gap. URSA XPS N-V-L boards are used as a heat-insulating material, the protective and finishing coating is made of Sertolit facade plaster and TiM 43 putty.

1.2 Scope of work covered by the map

The scope of work covered in the map includes:

Inventory fencing device from ready-made links

Installation of inventory frame scaffolding

Lifting a manual winch to the 7th floor

Installation of handling equipment manual winch

Cleaning the surface from protruding cement-sand mortar, dust and dirt with electric brushes with compressed air blowing.

1. Lifting of thermal insulation boards

   Lifting the mesh and fasteners

   Drilling holes in the wall with a hammer drill for setting anchors

   Installation of thermal insulation boards

   Reinforcing mesh installation

   Installation of anchors

   Preparation of plaster

   Lifting mortar

   Putty preparation

   Surface putty

   Removing the hand winch

   Scaffolding

   Dismantling of the temporary fence.

Removing the winch is carried out by a link of two riggers, together with them a link of installers dismantle the scaffolding. The dismantling of the temporary fence is carried out by a team of carpenters of three people. All works are linked in time, which is reflected in the work schedule (the work schedule is shown in the drawing).

1.3 Characteristics of the conditions for the production of work

Work on the insulation of the facade surfaces of the walls of the building is carried out on the basis of working drawings (terms of reference) in accordance with the rules for the production and acceptance of work on the installation of insulating and finishing coatings (SNiP 3.04.01-87) and safety regulations in construction (SNiP 12-03- 2001, 12-04-2002).

Works are carried out in the summer season at an average outdoor temperature of +20°C in one shift.

2 Organization and technology of the construction process

2.1 Preparation of the object and requirements for the readiness of previous work

Before the start of insulation work, the following types of work must be performed: installation of temporary fences and canopies over the entrances to the building, cleaning the territory ( bushes, trees, etc..), the necessary building materials and products and their storage, installation of scaffolding (scaffolding), installation of handling equipment must be delivered to the work area.

2.2 Organization and technology of work performance

The production of external thermal insulation should be started only after the survey and collection of information about the building, the development of design estimates and the execution of the appropriate work permit signed by the customer and the organization performing thermal insulation work.

The device of each subsequent element of the heat-insulating layer should be carried out after checking the quality of the performance of the corresponding underlying element and drawing up an act of examination of hidden works.

2.3 Labor costing

Before calculating labor costs, it is necessary to calculate the volume of work.

Calculation of the scope of work

Dimensions of the building: Residential building with plan dimensions of 45.1 * 10.8 m and a height of 20.5 m.

1 Definition of working area:

Ok 2 1.2 × 0.6 S ok 2 \u003d 1.2 × 0.6 \u003d 0.72 m 2

Ok 3 1.8 × 1.8 S ok 3 \u003d 1.8 × 1.8 \u003d 3.24 m 2

Ok 4 1.2 × 1.5 S ok 4 \u003d l.2 × l.5 \u003d 1.8 m 2

Ok 5 1.5 × 1.5 S ok 5 \u003d 1.5 × 1.5 \u003d 2.25 m 2

Ok 6 1.5 × 0.9 S ok 6 \u003d 1.5 × 0.9 \u003d 1.35 m 2

Door 2.2 × 1.2 S dv = 2.2 × 1.2 = 2.64 m 2

Scaffolding installation is defined as the area of ​​all facades.

The area of ​​one facade of the building with openings and a plinth:

S A (1) \u003d 32.1 × 27.5 \u003d 882.75 m 2

The area of ​​the second facade with openings and a plinth:

S A (2) \u003d S A (1) \u003d 882.75 m 2

The area of ​​the end facade with openings and a plinth:

S (B1) \u003d 11 × 27.5 \u003d 302.5 m 2

S (B2) \u003d S (B1) \u003d 302.5 m 2

Total area of ​​all facades with openings and plinth:

S \u003d S A (1) + S A (2) + S (B1) + S (B2) \u003d 2 * (882.75 + 302.5) \u003d 2370.5 m 2 - scaffolding installation area

Base area:

S C (A) \u003d 32.1 * 1.2 \u003d 38.52 m 2

S C (B) \u003d 11 * 1.2 \u003d 13.2 m 2

Façade surface cleaning = total area without openings and plinth:

Facade A (1) \u003d 882.75 - (2.64 + 4.32 + 15.75 + 12.6 + 22.68 + 22.68) -38.52 \u003d 763.56 m 2

Facade A (2) \u003d 882.75 - (22.68 + 12.6 + 22.68 + 15.75) -38.52 \u003d 770.52 m 2

Facade B (1) \u003d 302.5 - (5.4 + 5.4) - 13.2 \u003d 278.5 m 2

Facade B (2) \u003d 302.5 - (5.4 + 5.4) - 13.2 \u003d 278.5 m 2

We add the resulting values ​​763.56 + 770.52 + 278.5 + 278.5 = 2091.08 m²

Insulation area - 2091.08 m²

fence perimeter:

P \u003d (a + b) * 2 \u003d (32.1 + 11 + 7.95 * 4) * 2 \u003d 149.8 - gate (4.5 m) \u003d 145.3 m.

Determining the number of plates: S plates \u003d 0.6 * 1.2 \u003d 0.72

(2091.08 m 2 / 0.72) × 1.1 \u003d 3196 pcs.

Determining the number of fasteners:

The number of dowels for 1 heat-insulating plate - 6 pieces

N dub \u003d 6 * 3196 \u003d 19176 pcs.

The number of anchors is equal to the number of dowels: N anchor = 19176 pcs.

inventory fencing:

The size of the danger zone (with a building height of 27.5 m) in accordance with SNiP 12.03-20011 H=5.2 (the minimum height of the load when falling according to RD 11-06-2007). Therefore, the size of the danger zone is 6.7 m.

The calculation of labor costs is given in table 1.

Table 1 - Calculation of labor costs.
Justification according to ENiR	Naming works	Units	Scope of work	Norm of time	Labor costs in man*h	Labor costs in person*d	The composition of the link according to ENiR
	1. Installation of the fence
	a) with a visor
	b) without a visor
	2. Dismantling the fence						Carpenters of the 1st category - 1 person; Carpenters II category - 1 person; Utility 1 person I category.
	a) with a visor
	b) without a visor
	3. Installation of scaffolding
	4. Scaffolding						Installer IV category - 1 person; Installer III category - 2 people; Installer II category - 1 person;
ESN 26-01-045-01	5. Preparation of the base, insulation installation, the installation of a reinforcing mesh, the application of plaster and the application of a decorative layer						Medium rank 4.4

2.4 Methods and sequence of work

Works on the insulation of the facade surfaces of the walls of buildings in operation with the installation of a protective and finishing coating of reinforced plasters should be carried out in the warm season.

Works are carried out by grips, in-line method. The size of the grip is selected depending on the scaffolding used. On the gripper, technological processes are carried out according to a horizontally descending scheme.

Works on the insulation of the facade surfaces of the walls of buildings in operation can be divided into preparatory And main.

TO preparatory works include: the installation of temporary fences and canopies over the entrances to the building; pruning trees; delivery of building materials and structures to the construction site and their storage; installation of scaffolding means; installation of handling equipment; cleaning of facades from dust and dirt.

Scaffolding means are selected depending on the size of the building and the permissible load. With a building height of up to 5 floors, self-propelled and attached scaffolding and suspended cradles can be used, for 5-9 floors -

attached scaffolding and suspended cradles, and with a building height of more than 9 floors - suspended cradles or combined scaffolding. The labor intensity of installation from self-propelled scaffolding and hanging cradles is 30-40% lower than from attached scaffolding. The maximum front and intensity of work is achieved when using attached scaffolding shown in figure 1.

Picture 1 - Attached frame scaffolding

2.4.1 Scaffold installation

We used light attached frame scaffolding. The main characteristics of these forests are presented below in table 2.

Table 2 - Main characteristics of frame scaffolding

Dismantling and erection of scaffolding must be carried out under the supervision of a responsible foreman, who must:
a) study the design of scaffolding;
b) draw up a scheme for the installation of scaffolding for a specific object;
c) make a list of necessary elements;
d) to accept a set of scaffolding from the warehouse in accordance with
list with the rejection of damaged items.
The workers who mount the scaffolding must first be familiar with the design and instructed about the installation procedure and methods for attaching the scaffolding to the wall (an example of attaching the scaffolding to the display wall on figure 2).

Figure 2 - Scheme of fastening scaffolding to the wall

(X - attachment point)

Scaffolding must be mounted on a planned and compacted site, from which water drainage must be provided. The platform for scaffolding must be horizontal in the transverse and longitudinal directions. Lifting and lowering of scaffold elements must be carried out by lifts or other lifting mechanisms.

Scaffolding is erected in tiers for the entire length of the scaffold section to be mounted, according to the mounting scheme:

Stage 1:
On the prepared site, install wooden linings and shoes, if necessary, install screw supports. The supporting surfaces of the scaffolding frames must be strictly in the same horizontal plane, as shown in figure 3.

Figure 3 - Installation of scaffolding at stage 1

Install two adjacent frames of the first tier into the shoes, and connect them with horizontal and diagonal ties, as shown in figure 4. After a step of 3 meters, install two adjacent frames and also connect them with ties and repeat this operation to set the required length of the scaffolding. Install fencing frames along the edges of the required length of the scaffolding, and the next frame should be with a ladder.

Picture 4 - Installation of scaffolding at stage 2

Install the frames of the second tier, connect them with ties, and arrange the diagonal ties in such a way that they are installed in a checkerboard pattern (shown in figure 5). For installation, you need to use crossbars, on which wooden flooring is laid.

Figure 5 - Installation of scaffolding at stage 3

For the ascent and descent of people, the scaffolding is equipped with inclined ladders (shown in figure 6), which are installed in the places reserved for hatches.

Figure 6 - Installation of scaffolding at stage 4

5th stage:
Fastening the scaffolding to the wall with plugs or using hooks with bushings through brackets or clamps fixed to the racks of the scaffolding frames (see anchoring elements on figure 7), after 4m in a checkerboard pattern.

Figure 7 - Anchoring elements

with hook and sleevewith cork

6th stage:
By repeating steps 3,4,5, gain the required height of the scaffolding. Fences, intermediate elements and diagonals must be installed according to the general scaffold assembly scheme.
7th stage:
On the working and safety tiers of the scaffolding, install end and longitudinal braces of the fences. In places where workers rise to the working tier, where diagonal braces are not installed, install longitudinal braces of the fences. Fix two adjacent frames vertically with an M8x55 bolt or a pin (at the request of the customer).

Install scaffolding frames plumb. Installation of frames and fixing scaffolding to the wall should be carried out simultaneously with the installation of scaffolding. Laying of decking and installation of fence connections should be done simultaneously. Dismantling of scaffolding is allowed only after cleaning the remnants of materials, inventory and tools from the decking. Prior to the dismantling of scaffolding, the foreman is obliged to inspect them and instruct the workers on the sequence and methods of dismantling, as well as on measures to ensure the safety of work. Dismantling of scaffolding should be started from the upper tier, in the reverse order of installation. Before transportation, sort the dismantled elements, tie large-sized elements into bags, and put small-sized and standard products in boxes.

Main work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Lifting of thermal insulation boards

2. Lifting mesh and fasteners

3. Drilling holes in the wall with a puncher for setting anchors

4. Installation of thermal insulation boards

5. Installation of reinforcing mesh

6. Installation of anchors

7. Preparation of plaster

8. Raising the plaster

Plastering with 5 mm thick façade plaster by hand

grouting the wall surface by hand

Putty preparation

Surface putty

Dismantling and moving the scaffolding to the next grip.

Plastering is carried out with facade cement-lime plaster "Sertolit". This is a special dry mix of improved composition. Differs in good coupling with the basis and plasticity. It is used to perform traditional plasters on brick, concrete, aerated concrete, masonry, DSP, primed surfaces. When preparing foundations on gypsum and concrete, it is recommended to apply grooves in the form of an “oblique grid” with a sharp chisel.

Preparing the mixture:

Add water to the dry mixture at the rate of 0.2–0.22 liters per 1 kg of the mixture and mix thoroughly. Leave for 10-15 minutes and mix for 1 minute, if necessary, add water to the desired consistency.

For putty, putty Tim No. 43 is used. All components that make up the mixture are environmentally friendly. The mixture is fire and explosion proof. It is used for external and internal works.

The field of application is: leveling of plastered facades, external surfaces of wall panels or monolithic walls, as well as sealing cracks and damage in structures made of heavy and light concrete, brick and asbestos cement. The base for puttying must be flat and dust-free.

Preparing the mixture:

Add the dry mixture to the water at the rate of 0.24-0.26 liters of water per 1 kg of the mixture (6-6.5 liters per bag), mix with an electric drill with a mixer nozzle until smooth (mixing time 2-4 minutes). Mixing manually with high intensity is allowed. After 10-12 minutes, mix again for 2-3 minutes, after which the mixture is ready for use.

The increased plasticity of the solution allows it to be applied to the base with a layer 0.8-3 mm thick. The solution is applied with a spatula in one or more layers. The second layer is applied if necessary after sufficient hardening of the previous one. If necessary, the applied putty layer can be smoothed out with a damp sponge, or sanded after its initial hardening. Water-based painting can be done after 1-2 days, other types of painting - not earlier than 5 days after applying the putty, depending on the temperature and humidity conditions and the type of paint.

Consumption: per 1 sq. m. surface requires 1 - 3.75 kg of dry mix with a layer thickness of 0.8 - 3 mm, respectively.

Putty from low-shrink compositions with polymer additives must be leveled immediately after application with grinding of individual sections; when applying other types of putty compositions, the surface of the putty should be sanded after it dries. The putty coating after drying should be even, without bubbles, cracks and mechanical inclusions.

2.5 Working methods and techniques

2.5.1 Inspection and surface preparation

Installers using a rail and a plumb line determine the deviation of the base from the vertical and indicate the direction of the slopes.

2.5.2 Workplace preparation

Installers check the reliability of scaffolding. Pick up the required material.

2.6 Duration of storage and stock of materials and structures

Dowels and other fasteners are located in the utility room. Thermal insulation boards are brought in and stored in the utility room. It is necessary to provide a supply of materials for 2 days.

2.7 Features of processing openings, corners and other junctions

2.7.1 Basement of the building

External thermal insulation of the building usually begins at a height of 65-70 cm from the ground. If it is also necessary to insulate the lower part of the wall and its recessed part, you should: apply the same insulation as for the entire system, waterproof the basement of the building, for example, on the basis of a bitumen emulsion without the presence of polystyrene solvents.

2.7.2 Corner edges

To protect the edges of the corners from chipping, they are protected by installing a perforated corner profile made of aluminum or galvanized steel.

The corners are planted on the adhesive composition directly on the insulation along the entire height of the wall (except for the lower part). In the lower part of the wall, the corners should be seated on the adhesive over the reinforced reinforcement, after which they are overlapped with conventional reinforcement. Fastening corners to the wall surface with dowels (nails) is not allowed. In places where the insulation is adjacent to the structural elements of the building, its vertical and horizontal edges are protected from the side by perforated profiles made in the form of a channel. This profile is pre-attached to the wall using screw-in dowels. Insulation plates are inserted into the fixed profile. All other technological operations are carried out according to the standard scheme. The perforated profile into which the insulation boards are inserted is also used as a support at the bottom of the wall or on balconies. It is installed so that the lower edge of the insulation is 10-15 cm from the floor. This gap is covered with a protective plate (ceramic plate) glued to the surface after finishing the insulation layer.

2.7.3 Adjacency to parapets, cornices

The upper part of the heat-insulating coating and its adjoining to the parapets and cornices should be carried out according to the following schemes. The upper edge of the insulation on the pediment, made according to the usual technology, is either covered with a metal protective visor fixed to the wall with screws with sealing washers, or protected by edge tiles. In the presence of a cornice, the upper edge of the insulation at the junction is protected by perforated profiles, which are previously attached to the wall using screw-in dowels. The gap between the cornice and the insulation is filled with waterproof mastic.

2.7.4 Machining openings

The processing of openings (windows, doors) is one of the most important operations and must be performed before starting work on the installation of the main thermal insulation coating. The most common way to arrange a window opening is the “with a quarter” option. Before proceeding with the insulation sticker, the window opening around the perimeter is framed with a metal box. To do this, the upper and two side metal L-shaped profiles are installed in the opening, which form a frame for the insulation. The window block remains in the same place. Insulation plates are inserted into the metal profile when affixed. If windows are opened outward, metal profiles should not interfere with their opening.

These processes are carried out with such tools as: puncher and metalwork hammer, drill.

3. Quality control of work

Quality control is given below in table 3.

Table 3 - Quality control of wall insulation

Controlled	Requirements		Ways and means of control	Who and when controls	Who is involved to control
parameter
Cleaning the surface from dust and dirt
Surface preparation	No dust and exfoliated finishing coatings		Visually	foreman, master, producer	Inspector,
					representative
					customer
Humidity mate	No more than 8%		visually, moisture meter	Master, laboratory assistant
rial wall
Flatness			plumb line, cord,	foreman,
surfaces
Fastening of thermal insulation material
Fixing parts to the wall of the building	By project		Visually.	Master, manufacturer	Inspector,
			measurement,		representative
					customer
Number and location of dowels	Center (between rails), every 600 mm		Measurements, tape measure, meter.
Deviation from the vertical surface of the plates	1 mm per 1 m, but not more than 5 mm for the entire height of the wall		Plumb, rail, theodolite, level
The difference between two adjacent plates	Not more than 1 mm		Measurements, ruler, meter, probe
The presence of gaps between the heat-insulating plates	no more than 3 mm
Grid installation
Table 3 continued
Attaching the grid to the surface		By project	Visually
Grid cell dimensions and its diameter			visual, measure, ruler
Roll overlap
		Surface plastering
Layer thickness
Surface evenness		No more than two bumps 3 mm deep	Rule 2m, probe	Master, work maker	Inspector, representative customer
Surface verticality		Deviation 1 mm per 1 m of height, but not more than 10 mm for the entire height	Plumb. rail, level
Surface putty
Layer thickness		By project	Visually
		Not allowed
Surface coloring
Humidity of the wall surface			Sampling, visual
The presence of spots, stripes, swelling, cracks		Not allowed	Visually
Table 3 continued
Contamination of non-paintable surfaces

4. Material and technical resources

4.1 Need for materials and products

The need for materials and products is given below in table 4.

Table 4 - Need for materials and products

Name of material, brand (GOST)	measurements	Need for materials
Thermal insulation material URSA XPS N-V-L
Steel anchor d=100 mm
Reinforcing mesh
inventory fencing
Facade plaster "Sertolit"

The main characteristics of Sertolit plaster are presented below in table 5.

Table 5 - Main technical characteristics of Sertolit plaster

Characteristic	Meaning
Layer thickness (mm)
Application temperature (deg. С)
Water consumption (kg/l)
Pot life (h)
Curing time (days)
Table 5 continued
Consumption (kg/sq.m/mm)
Filler fraction (mm)
Name
Mobility brand
Compressive strength grade

4.2 Machinery, fixtures, inventory, tools

The main machines, fixtures, inventory, tools used during facade insulation are given in table 6.

Table 6 - Main machines, fixtures, inventory, tools

Name	Brand, technical characteristics	Qty	Purpose
	Frame LRSP-40		Carrying out work at height
			Lifting and lowering loads to a height
Perforator			Drilling holes in the wall for the anchor
Bench hammer	GOST 2310-77		Driving insulation dowels
Respirator			Work safety
			Work safety
Gloves			Work safety
Construction helmet	GOST 12.4.087-84		Work safety
	10 - meter		Measuring the distance between framing elements
			Surface leveling
			Applying plaster to the surface
Drill with nozzle	Bosch GSR-12 SD		Preparation of plaster mortar; wall surface cleaning
mixer and steel

5 Occupational safety in construction

The organization and performance of work in the construction industry must be carried out in compliance with the requirements of SNiP 12-04.2002 "Labor safety in construction" Part 2 "Construction production" and other regulatory legal acts, as well as these rules and regulations.

On the site where installation work is being carried out, other work and the presence of unauthorized persons are not allowed.

It is not allowed to find people under the mounted elements of structures and equipment until they are installed in the design position.

If it is necessary to find workers under the mounted equipment (structures), special measures must be taken to ensure the safety of workers.

To protect the worker's head from mechanical damage from objects falling from above or from impact with structural and other elements, to protect against water, electric shock when working at height on construction, installation, dismantling, repair, adjustment and other work, helmets must be used that comply with requirements of GOST 12.4.087 - 84.

At work sites, in rooms where insulation work is being carried out, other work and the presence of unauthorized persons are not allowed.

Workplaces for finishing work at height must be equipped with scaffolding and ladders for climbing them that meet the requirements of SNiP 12-04-2002 Labor safety in construction Part 2 "Construction production",

During dry cleaning of surfaces and other works associated with the release of dust and gases, it is necessary to use respirators and goggles.

When performing thermal insulation work, it is necessary to provide for measures to prevent exposure of workers to the following hazardous and harmful production factors related to the nature of work:

increased dust and gas content in the air working area;

increased or decreased temperature of surfaces of equipment, materials and air of the working area; location of the workplace near a height difference of 1.3 m or more;

sharp edges, burrs and roughness on the surfaces of equipment, materials.

In the presence of hazardous and harmful production factors mentioned above, the safety of insulation work must be ensured on the basis of

implementation of the following decisions on labor protection contained in the organizational and technological documentation:

organization of workplaces with indication of methods and means for providing ventilation, fire extinguishing, protection against thermal burns, lighting, performance of work at height; o special security measures when working in closed

premises, apparatus and containers; o safety measures in the preparation and transportation of hot mastics and materials.

At work sites where insulation work is carried out with the release of harmful and flammable substances, other work and the presence of unauthorized persons are not allowed.

Workplaces for performing insulation work at height must be equipped with scaffolding with fences and ladders for climbing them that meet the requirements of SNiP 12-04-2002 Occupational safety in construction Part 2 "Construction production".

5.1 Safety requirements for the operation of scaffolding (excerpt from SNiP 12.03.2001 part 1)

Before starting work, personnel operating mechanization equipment, equipment, fixtures and manual machines must be trained in safe methods and techniques of work with their use in accordance with the requirements of the manufacturer's instructions and labor protection instructions.

7.4.6 The surface of the soil, on which the scaffolding means are installed, must be planned (leveled and compacted) to ensure the removal of surface water from it. In cases where it is impossible to meet these requirements, the scaffolding means must be equipped with adjustable supports (jacks) to ensure the horizontal installation or temporary support structures are installed to ensure the horizontal installation of the scaffolding.

7.4.7 Scaffolding - scaffolding that does not have its own design stability must be attached to the building by the methods specified in the technical documentation of the manufacturer (for inventory scaffolding) or in the organizational and technological documentation for the work.

Attachment points are indicated in the organizational and technological documentation. In the absence of special instructions in the project or the manufacturer's instructions, the scaffolding should be fixed to the walls of buildings at least through one tier for the extreme racks, through two spans for the upper tier and one fastening for every 50 m 2 of the projection of the scaffolding surface onto the facade of the building.

It is not allowed to attach scaffolding to parapets, cornices, balconies and other protruding parts of buildings and structures.

7.4.8 Scaffolding facilities located near the passages of vehicles must be fenced with fenders so that they are at a distance not closer than 0.6 m from the dimensions of the vehicles.

7.4.9 The impact of loads on the scaffolding during the production of works should not exceed the calculated ones for the project or technical conditions. If it is necessary to transfer additional loads to scaffolds and scaffolds (from machines for lifting materials, lifting platforms, etc.), their design must be checked for these loads.

7.4.10 In places where people are lifted onto scaffolding and scaffolding, posters should be placed indicating the layout and values ​​​​of permissible loads, as well as the scheme for evacuating workers in the event of an emergency.

For the ascent and descent of people, the means of scaffolding must be equipped with ladders.

7.4.11 The means of scaffolding must have smooth working platforms with a gap between the boards of not more than 5 mm, and when the flooring is located at a height of 1.3 m or more, fences and side elements.

The height of the fence should be at least 1.1 m, the side element - at least 0.15 m, the distance between the horizontal elements of the fence - no more than 0.5 m.

7.4.12 Scaffolding used in plastering or painting work, in places under which other work is being carried out or there is a passage, must have flooring without gaps.

7.4.13 Overlapping of decking boards is allowed only along their length, and the ends of the joined elements must be located on the support and overlap it by at least 0.2 m in each direction.

7.4.14 Scaffolding and scaffolding up to 4 m high are allowed to be put into operation only after they are accepted by the manufacturer of work or foreman and registered in the work log, and above 4 m - after acceptance by the commission appointed by the person responsible for ensuring labor protection in the organization and registration by an act.

When accepting scaffolding and scaffolding, the following should be checked: the presence of ties and fasteners that ensure stability, the attachment points of individual elements, working platforms and fences, the verticality of the racks, the reliability of the support platforms and grounding (for metal scaffolding).

7.4.15 When performing work from scaffolding with a height of 6 m or more, there must be at least two decks: working (upper) and protective (lower), and each workplace on scaffolds adjacent to a building or structure, it must, in addition, be protected from above by a deck located at a height distance of not more than 2 m from the working deck.

In cases where the performance of work, the movement of people or vehicles under and near scaffolding is not provided, the installation of a protective (lower) flooring is optional.

7.4.16 When organizing a mass passage of people in the immediate vicinity of the scaffolding, the places for the passage of people must be equipped with a continuous protective canopy, and the facade of the scaffolding is covered with a protective mesh with a mesh size of not more than 5 × 5 mm.

7.4.17 Scaffolding during operation must be inspected by a foreman or foreman at least every 10 days with an entry in the work log.

Scaffolding means, from which work has not been carried out for a month or more, should be taken before the resumption of work in the manner provided for in clause 7.4.14.

Additional inspection is subject to scaffolding after rain, wind, thaw, earthquake, which can affect the bearing capacity of the base under them, as well as the deformation of its supporting elements. If violations are found regarding the bearing capacity of the base or deformation of the scaffolding, these violations must be eliminated and the scaffolding must be re-accepted in the manner prescribed by clause 7.4.14.

7.4.18 During the dismantling of scaffolding adjacent to the building, all doorways of the first floor and exits to the balconies of all floors (within the area being dismantled) must be closed.

7.4.19 When operating mobile scaffolding, the following requirements must be met:

the slope of the surface along which the scaffolding means are moved in the transverse and longitudinal directions should not exceed the values ​​\u200b\u200bspecified in the passport and the manufacturer's instructions for operating a particular type of scaffolding means;

the movement of scaffolding means with wind speeds of more than 10 m/s is not allowed;

before moving, the scaffolding means must be freed from materials and containers and there must be no people on them;

the doors in the scaffold enclosure must open inwards and have a double-acting locking device that prevents them from opening spontaneously.

7.4.20 Suspended scaffolding and scaffolding after their installation can be allowed for operation only after they pass the test for 1 hour with a static load exceeding the standard by 20%.

Lifting scaffolds, in addition, must be tested for a dynamic load exceeding the standard by 10%.

The results of tests of suspended scaffolding and scaffolding must be reflected in the act of acceptance or in the general work log.

In cases of repeated use of suspended scaffolding or scaffolding, they can be allowed for operation after their examination without testing, provided that the structure on which the scaffolding (scaffolding) is suspended has been checked for a load that is at least twice the calculated one, and the scaffolding has been fixed typical units (devices) that have passed the necessary tests.

7.4.21 Suspended ladders and platforms used for working on structures must be equipped with special hooks that ensure their strong fastening to the structure. Install and fix them on the mounted structures should be before lifting the latter.

7.4.22 The design of lifting scaffolds (cradles) used during construction and installation work must comply with the requirements of the relevant state standards.

7.4.23 Lifting scaffolds must be lowered to the ground during work breaks. Passing from the lifting platform to the building or structure and back is not allowed.

7.4.24 Non-inventory scaffolding (stairs, ladders, ladders and bridges) must be made of metal or softwood lumber of the 1st and 2nd grades.

7.4.25 The length of wooden ladders must be no more than 5 m. The construction of ladders must comply with the requirements of the relevant state standards.

7.4.26 The slope of the stairs when climbing the scaffolding must not exceed 60°.

7.4.27 Before operation, the stairs must be tested with a static load of 1200 N (120 kgf) applied to one of the steps in the middle of the flight of the stairs, which is in the operational position.

During operation, wooden stairs must be tested every six months, and metal stairs once a year.

7.4.28 Ladders without working platforms may be used only for transition between individual tiers of a building under construction and for performing work that does not require the contractor to rest on the building structures of the building.

Ladders and ladders must be equipped with devices that prevent them from shifting and overturning during operation. At the lower ends of ladders and step-ladders there must be fittings with sharp tips for installation on the ground, and when using ladders on smooth surfaces (parquet, metal, tile, concrete, etc.), they must have shoes made of non-slip material.

7.4.29 The dimensions of the ladder should provide the worker with the opportunity to work in a standing position on a step located at a distance of at least 1 m from the upper end of the ladder.

When working with a ladder at a height of more than 1.3 m, a safety belt attached to the structure of the structure or to the ladder, provided it is fixed to the building structure, should be used.

7.4.30 Places for the installation of ladders in the areas of movement of vehicles or people must be fenced or guarded for the duration of the work.

7.4.31 It is not allowed to perform work:

on portable ladders and ladders near and above rotating working machines, conveyors;

using manual machines and gunpowder tools;

gas and electric welding;

tensioning wires and holding heavy parts aloft.

To perform such work, scaffolding, scaffolding and stairs with platforms fenced with railings should be used.

Tools used in construction, the building materials industry and the construction industry must be inspected at least once every 10 days, and immediately before use. A defective tool that does not meet safety requirements must be removed.

When carrying or transporting the tool, its sharp parts should be covered with covers. The handles of axes, hammers, picks and other percussion instruments must be made of hard and tough wood (young oak, hornbeam, maple, ash, beech, mountain ash, dogwood, etc.) and have the shape of an oval section with a thickening towards the free end. The end of the handle, on which the percussion instrument is mounted, must be wedged.

Equipment, machinery, small-scale mechanization, hand tools (mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic, electric) used when working at height must:

a) meet the safety requirements in terms of their technical parameters, and newly acquired ones must have a certificate of compliance with safety requirements;

c) be used for its intended purpose (for the types of work for which they are intended). Use other than the main purpose must be authorized by a competent person (responsible worker);

d) be used by employees who have the appropriate training and permission to work with them;

e) be equipped with protective devices (guards, covers, etc.).

Requirements for the safe operation of equipment, mechanisms, small-scale mechanization, hand tools should be contained in the instructions for labor protection.

Machinery and equipment with a mechanical drive must have spontaneous start interlocks, easily accessible and clearly recognizable to the operator, emergency stop devices. Hazardous moving parts must be guarded.

Equipment, mechanisms, small-scale mechanization, hand tools with a variable speed of rotation of the working body, when turned on, must be started at the minimum rotation speed

Equipment, mechanisms, small-scale mechanization, manual mechanized and other tools used when performing work at heights must be used with security measures that prevent them from falling (fastening, slinging, placing at a sufficient distance from the height difference boundary or securing through halyards to a safety worker's belt, etc.).

After completing work at height, equipment, mechanisms, small-scale mechanization, hand tools must be removed from a height.

5.2 Safety requirements for the use of electrical appliances (excerpt from SNiP 12.03.2001 part 1)

6.4.1 The device and operation of electrical installations must be carried out in accordance with the requirements rules for the installation of electrical installations, intersectoral rules for labor protection during the operation of electrical installations of consumers, rules for the operation of electrical installations of consumers.

6.4.2 The installation and maintenance of temporary and permanent electrical networks in the production area should be carried out by electrical personnel with the appropriate qualification group for electrical safety.

6.4.3 The wiring of temporary power networks with voltage up to 1000 V used in the power supply of construction sites must be made with insulated wires or cables on supports or structures designed for mechanical strength when laying wires and cables over them, at a height above ground level, flooring of at least , m:

3.5 - over the aisles;

6.0 - over driveways;

2.5 - over jobs.

6.4.4 Lamps for general lighting with a voltage of 127 and 220 V must be installed at a height of at least 2.5 m from the level of the ground, floor, decking.
With a suspension height of less than 2.5 m, it is necessary to use lamps of a special design or use a voltage not higher than 42 V. The supply of lamps with voltage up to 42 V must be carried out from step-down transformers, machine converters, batteries.
It is forbidden to use autotransformers, chokes and rheostats for these purposes. Cases of step-down transformers and their secondary windings must be grounded.
It is forbidden to use stationary lamps as hand lamps. Only commercially manufactured hand lamps should be used.

6.4.5 Switches, circuit breakers and other electrical switching devices used outdoors or in wet shops must be protected in accordance with the requirements of state standards.

6.4.6 All electric starting devices must be placed so that the possibility of starting machines, mechanisms and equipment by unauthorized persons is excluded. It is forbidden to turn on several pantographs with one starting device.
Switchboards and circuit breakers must have locking devices.

6.4.7 Plug sockets for rated currents up to 20 A, located outdoors, as well as similar plug sockets located indoors, but intended to power portable electrical equipment and hand tools used outdoors, must be protected by residual current devices (RCD) with operation current not more than 30 mA, or each socket must be powered by an individual isolating transformer with a secondary winding voltage of not more than 42 V.

6.4.8 Sockets and plugs used in networks with voltage up to 42 V must have a design different from the design of sockets and plugs with voltage over 42 V.

6.4.9 Metal scaffolding, metal fencing of the work site, shelves and trays for laying cables and wires, rail tracks of cranes and vehicles with electric drive, equipment cases, machines and mechanisms with electric drive must be grounded (zeroed) in accordance with applicable standards immediately after they are installed in place, before any work begins.

6.4.10 Current-carrying parts of electrical installations must be isolated, fenced or placed in places inaccessible to accidental contact with them.

6.4.11 Protection of electrical networks and electrical installations in the production area from overcurrents should be ensured by means of fuses with calibrated fuses or circuit breakers in accordance with the rules for electrical installations.

6.4.12 The admission of personnel of construction and installation organizations to work in existing installations and a security power line must be carried out in accordance with intersectoral rules on labor protection during the operation of consumer electrical installations.

The preparation of the workplace and the admission to work of seconded personnel are carried out in all cases by the electrical personnel of the operating organization.

List of used literature

1. SNiP 03/12/2001 part 1 (Section 6.4 - Ensuring electrical safety, section 7.4 - Safety requirements for the operation of scaffolding, equipment, hand-held machines and tools)