Water pipes      07.03.2020

Warming the steam room from the inside step by step instructions brick wall. We warm the brick bath correctly. Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Choosing which bath to build - wooden or brick on suburban area, you must first decide and understand some of the nuances of these building materials. A feature of the brick is thorough insulation brick bath internally due to its high thermal conductivity.

A wooden bath during construction requires additional measures such as the application of fire protection agents, as well as waterproofing load-bearing elements buildings.

In contrast to wood, brick buildings have fireproof and moisture-proof properties. However, in order to improve comfortable conditions when taking hygiene procedures, warming a brick bath from the inside helps to increase the efficiency of heating the building by about 2-3 times. Next, it will be considered how and in what rooms to insulate brick bath, as well as what materials are best used for these purposes.

Features of internal insulation of a brick bath

When building a bath, it is important to know how and where, if possible, to insulate a brick bath from the inside with your own hands.

The main elements of the structure that require insulation or thermal insulation from the inside of the bath are:

  1. Foundation around the entire perimeter of the building.
  2. The floor in all rooms is also around the perimeter.
  3. The ceiling, that is, the roof.
  4. both external and internal (partitions).

At the same time, the insulation of a brick bath from the inside, its scheme as a whole does not represent any complex and particularly time-consuming process.

Most often, internal wall insulation is carried out according to two common options:

  1. The creation of an additional second wall along the main one, that is, along the entire perimeter of the main brick wall and indoors.
  2. The recommended heat resistance inside the brick building is also achieved by installing a double layer of insulation.

As for the insulation of other components of the bath fragments, here, as a rule, everything is almost standard, that is, today most heat-insulating materials are quite suitable for these purposes.

Bath insulation materials

In order to insulate a brick bath, you will need to purchase certain materials that in a classic way insulate one or another of its constituent elements from the inside - the foundation, floor, ceiling or walls.

So, for thermal insulation of the horizontal part of the foundation, as a rule, either expanded clay is used, since these materials are the most affordable and have all the necessary qualities to cover this bath element with them. Vertical insulation of the foundation of a brick bath, for example, with foam or polyurethane foam, is recommended to be carried out with the help of specialists, since their independent application will cost the owner of the future bath more than calling a master with a ready-made arsenal of everything necessary for such procedures.

The floor in rooms such as the dressing room and the washing room is recommended to be covered with ceramic tiles with thermal insulation underneath, respectively. Schematically, this procedure can be briefly described as follows: a cranial bar is sewn to the beams, on which a draft floor of boards is mounted, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid, then heat-insulating material (expanded polystyrene or expanded clay) is laid on top, and finally a reinforced mesh is laid on the resulting cake, and all this is then poured with cement-concrete mortar.

However, after drying concrete screed the floor in a brick bath is covered with a waterproofing layer, followed by application to it ceramic tiles. In the steam room and the rest room flooring without fail it is necessary to issue a wooden flooring in order to avoid the so-called thermal shock from the floor heated by steam.

In a brick bath, they are produced using basalt insulation, which is covered with special foil for baths on top. The boundaries of the joints in foil insulation and the foil itself are glued with a wide aluminum tape specially designed for this purpose.

As for the ceiling, it is insulated on top with mineral wool with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Ceiling insulation of a brick bath from the inside can also be done using fiberglass, 2 clay-sand layers (one layer of sawdust, and the other layer of vermiculite or its analogue), as well as foam plastic - laid on top of all these layers.

At the same time, in the steam room, it is again desirable to cover the ceiling with foiled fiberglass, since polystyrene foam emits substances hazardous to human health when heated strongly.


Other recommendations for warming the bath

If the insulation of a brick bath, tested over the years and recommended by specialists, is mainly produced inside with materials such as mineral wool, expanded clay, vermiculite, foam plastic, polyurethane foam, basalt insulation, fiberglass, and so on, then you should not forget that there are other bottlenecks in which small but heat losses also occur.

Of course, these places are mainly either door or window openings, as a rule, external ones. In this regard, it is not advisable during the construction of baths to lay big windows facing the street or courtyard, as well as very high doors. At the same time, window openings are recommended to be located as low as possible, and Entrance door must be equipped with a threshold.

In order to make the insulation of the brick bath inside more reliable, it is preferable to install triple-glazed windows on the windows, and choose the doors from wood already with insulation inside, or from heat-resistant, shock-proof, durable glass.

Another small nuance that should not be neglected when building a brick bath is the implementation of local protective impregnation of the brick from the effects of harmful bacteria. It is recommended to perform this procedure mainly in rooms such as a steam room and a shower room.

It is equally useful to know several reasons why it is not recommended to make external insulation of a brick bath. One of them is an unwanted and very expensive cake of insulation on both sides of the brick. By insulating the walls of the bath from the outside, the consumption increases not only in building material, but also in fuel. The other is significant losses for warming up cold bricks in winter.

A simple calculation based on the laws of physics will help to avoid the formation of condensate on the ceiling in the steam room: the thermal insulation for the ceiling must always be proportionately thicker than for the walls.

Summarizing

Since a private bath, whether it is made of brick or wood, is operated periodically, it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature in it. Therefore, as a win-win option, if the bath has a brick frame, it is recommended to carry out all measures for warming the premises inside.

Thus, competent installation of insulation of brick walls with layers of insulation from the inside will give good savings in the cost of heating the premises. In turn, this means that the thermal insulation material must work according to the rule of retaining warm air in a closed space.

If all the measures for warming the surfaces of the building were carried out correctly, then such a brick bath during operation will retain the maximum heat received from the burned firewood inside, and its visitors will eventually receive incomparable pleasure from staying in it.

Novice builders mistakenly assume that the construction of a bath ends with the construction of walls and the installation of a stove. But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated. Many claim that brick building does not need additional sealing due to the wonderful properties of brick, but this is nothing more than a myth. A well-insulated bathhouse is much warmer from the inside.

The whole process consists of three main phases of insulation:

It is in this sequence that we will consider all the insulation of a steam room in a brick bath.

We warm the floor

To make the floor warm, it is necessary to carry out heat, steam, and waterproofing. Here it is important to observe two fundamental rules:

  1. When choosing a heater, pay attention to its properties. It must pass steam, and not create a greenhouse effect. In such a bath will be very uncomfortable.
  2. Lay all layers of insulation tightly to each other, avoiding the appearance of even minor gaps and holes.

We will not torment you with long discussions about possible heaters, let's say right away that the foam - perfect option to insulate the foundation. It is durable and allows you to increase the life and characteristics of the base. Expanded clay is most often used to protect against high humidity. This material perfectly copes with its "duties" and significantly reduces costs. Conscientious waterproofing cannot be thin, the thickness of the layer should be 1.5-2 times greater than the wall.

The procedure for performing thermal insulation:

  • we lay the gyro-insulating layer;
  • we lay thick foam sheets, strictly observing the dimensions;
  • we reinforce and tighten the floor with a fill;
  • lay the floor.

Now it remains only to wait until the solution seizes and you can proceed to the next step.

We heat-insulate the walls

To make the process not troublesome and enjoyable, you need to take care of this at the construction stage. A cobbled crate is installed in the steam room, on which the heat material is fixed. Thus, you protect the insulation from deformation and slipping during operation. If you decide to opt for loose version, then do not forget to fill up the cracks.

In order for the bath to be really warm, carry out thermal insulation in several passes, allowing the limestone mortar to grab and dry. If you opted for slabs, then put them between the finish and the wall. Most often, foam is used for insulation inside. One of its sides is covered with foil, which reflects heat and warms up the bath much faster. In addition, foil insulation has undeniable advantages. It withstands high temperatures and does not collapse from sudden changes, does not allow moisture to pass through.

If finances are limited or you could not find this material, then you can stop at mineral wool. But the savings here are false, since in addition to cotton wool, you will have to spend money on the purchase of waterproofing material.

After that, we produce wall cladding inside the bath. Natural material - wood - is used as a cladding.

We insulate the ceiling

Physical processes make it necessary to carefully approach the thermal insulation of the ceiling. Since hot air is lighter and rises to the top, it must not be allowed to escape through the ceiling cracks. There is no strong difference between the insulation of the ceiling and the walls, the only thing that needs to be done more carefully and used together is both loose and tiled material. For sheathing, use the same material as for the walls. Uniform style rooms will create a cozy atmosphere.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: thermal insulation of a brick bath


But in order for the steam room to be warm, heat up quickly and cool down slowly, it needs to be modernized - insulated.

How to insulate the steam room in the bath with your own hands?

Everyone understands perfectly well what a steam room in a bath is. This is a room with high temperature and humidity. And, therefore, its insulation will have to present large and stringent requirements. And it doesn’t matter if a bathhouse is built from timber, bricks, foam blocks or wireframe. Warming of the entire structure, and especially the steam room, is a prerequisite.

But when it comes to thermal insulation from the inside, the material from which the building is erected comes to the fore. The point is that different Construction Materials have different thermal conductivity, because it is possible to save on some additional materials. This will be discussed in this article.

Where to begin

So, first of all, the thermal conductivity of the material from which the walls of the bath are built is determined. Most often it is wood in the form of timber (logs) or block material: foam blocks, cinder blocks or bricks:


Advice! Rooms in which there is high humidity and temperature are best insulated from the inside. This is especially true for the steam bath. The thing is that this building is rarely heated, so at the moment when the heating is turned off, it freezes to the interior. And it doesn’t matter if it is built from foam blocks or from a bar.

Choosing a heater

Now the main question is, what kind of insulation is best for thermal insulation of the steam room? Everything will depend on what budget is allocated for these works. But it is better not to save on them. Although acceptable and inexpensive options are always there.

Experts recommend using inexpensive mineral wool for these purposes in slabs with a thickness of at least 70 mm. This thickness is the best option that will withstand any low temperatures from the street. Some believe that for a log house made of timber and for a structure made of foam blocks, the thickness of the heat insulator can be reduced.

You should not be led by someone, the difference in thickness will be noticeable, but the price range will practically not change. So it would be right to take a heater with a margin.

Mineral wool has one drawback - it is afraid of moisture. With constant exposure, the heat insulator loses its characteristics. It turns yellow, begins to crumble, bald spots appear, entire sections crumble. Therefore, it is worth taking care of vapor barrier.

Unfortunately, not all vapor barrier materials will perform well in conditions of high temperatures and high humidity. For example, synthetic membranes will simply begin to burst under the influence of repeated heating and cooling. Therefore, there is only one choice - aluminium foil.

Foil is thin roll material from aluminum with a thickness of 30-300 microns. As mentioned above, its main purpose is a vapor barrier, therefore, laid on a heater, it should create a monolithic surface that cuts off interior from the heat insulator.

The maximum roll width is 1.5 m. Of course, this size cannot cover the entire surface of the insulated wall or ceiling with one strip, so the foil strips are overlapped (with an offset of 20 cm), and the joints are closed with special aluminum tape.

Advice! Foil manufacturers today offer self-adhesive tape immediately in the kit. It is worth giving preference to this particular tandem. In this case, it will be guaranteed full compatibility two materials.

It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the aluminum foil used to insulate the sauna steam room from the inside is also a heat-insulating layer. How? It reflects up to 97% of thermal radiation. So the foil performs its functions over 100%.

Warming technology

Immediately make a reservation that mineral wool is laid only on the crate. And, it doesn’t matter if it’s a bathhouse made of timber, foam blocks or bricks. But there is also a difference:

  1. Insulation of a log cabin from a bar from the inside is carried out without applying waterproofing.
  2. But the structure of brickwork or foam blocks from the inside must be insulated. The easiest option is to apply bituminous mastic.

Mounting sequence

  • The first step is waterproofing. For brick and block masonry - this is a prerequisite.
  • The elements of the crate are installed. The best option is a vertical frame made of timber with dimensions of 70x70 mm. Thus, the insulation will completely occupy the space from the wall to the edges of the crate.
  • Installation of aluminum foil.
  • Clapboard trim.

As you can see, in order to properly insulate the steam room from the inside in the bath, you just need to choose the right installation technology and the insulation itself. Everything else is almost the same with slight differences, both for a log house made of timber, and for a bath made of brickwork or foam blocks.

How to insulate a steam room in a bath with your own hands and correctly


The choice of options for how to insulate a steam room in a bath is not so great. The best option is aluminum foil or foil materials. The laying technology is simple.

Do-it-yourself warming of a steam room in a brick bath

Building your own bath from aerated concrete or timber is currently not so widespread. Modern builders and developers prefer to use ordinary building bricks for the construction of bath walls.

Especially popular for these purposes was the double silicate brick M 150, which in its parameters is practically not inferior to wood.

Bath made of silicate bricks

Thanks to the availability of information on the Internet, everyone can learn how to insulate a brick bath with their own hands, this is now not particularly difficult. The main requirement is to do everything neatly and correctly.

Thermal insulation of brick baths

Building bricks can easily absorb moisture, so when building a bath, it is necessary to avoid contact between bricks and the ground. Before you insulate a brick bath, you should decide on the option of insulation.

Modern baths are built today with several options for thermal insulation:

  • baths, lined with insulation in the form of plates;

Mineral wool insulation

Hollows in the wall

  • baths having a layer of thermal insulation between the outer and inner layers of the walls.

backfill wall

With slab insulation

Warming the walls of a brick bath from the inside is the most common way.

In this case, the order of work is as follows:

  • drill holes in the seams;
  • insert wooden plugs into the holes;

Some are even ready for sale.

  • a frame made of a metal profile or wooden slats impregnated with an antiseptic is attached to the prepared brick wall;
  • fasten on the rails of the insulation plate;
  • close the insulation with a layer of waterproofing overlap, avoiding gaps. Most often, various foil materials are used for these purposes;
  • perform the final finishing of the clapboard.

The insulation inside the steam room must be not only environmentally friendly, but also capable of withstanding high temperatures in the room.

Using the wrong material can lead to a complete loss of thermal insulation.

Basalt slab fits perfectly

With an air cushion in the wall

This type of insulation is done at the stage of wall construction. A gap of 4-6 cm is left between the inner and outer masonry. Reinforcement is performed every 4-6 rows by laying steel bars with curved edges.

With thermal insulation between walls

This method of insulation is based on the use of well brickwork and backfill.

Work instructions:

  • perform masonry, making transverse walls every 3 bricks;
  • as the masonry is raised, the voids between the walls are filled with expanded clay, fine slag or sand with lime and shavings;
  • after 10-15 cm of insulation filling, it is carefully rammed;
  • the last layer of backfill is reinforced with a metal mesh;
  • complete the laying, performing 3-4 rows of a continuous type of brickwork;
  • if in the future the wall will not be plastered, then all seams are completely filled with mortar. If the wall is to be plastered, then the seams should be left unfilled by 10-15 mm.

We make the seams even

If you have a lot of bricks with some kind of flaw, then you need to lay them with the good side out.

This will not only improve appearance masonry, but also keep the brick from moisture saturation.

Floor and ceiling insulation

Warming the brick walls of the bath from the inside is not the only problem. The floor and ceiling should be insulated in the same way.

To work with the ceiling, you will need the following materials:

by the most simple option to insulate the ceiling, a mixture of straw and clay will be used as a heater, which is applied in a thick layer. It should be remembered that the quality of insulation directly depends on the quality of the insulation, so it is not always cheap way the best.

Finishing

The inner lining of the steam room is usually performed wood materials. It is considered ideal lining made of linden or aspen. However, aspen lining loses its pleasant color over time, although it is famous for its healing properties.

More practical option is the use of pine lining. The price is much lower, and the aroma and benefits are almost the same.

Examples various kinds lining

If you have made the insulation of a brick bath from the inside correctly, then you will not have a draft or condensation, but only a pleasant aroma of wood and a feeling of comfort.

Everything is ready, you can steam!

By correctly and accurately completing all the stages of warming, you can get an excellent bath that will delight you and your friends for a long time.

Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, price, photo Warming of a steam room in a brick bath


Insulation of a steam room in a brick bath: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, price, photo

Insulation of a steam room made of wood and brick

The main task of the steam room in the bath is to achieve the effect of a thermos. And if the steam room "does not hold" steam, then all your efforts will be in vain. If in a wooden bath a good vapor barrier is already achieved due to the material, then the warming of a steam room in a brick bath is a serious process.

If you decide to build such a useful and pleasant building for a Russian person on your site, then the first thing you should think about is the insulation of walls, floors and ceilings, so that the microclimate in this room conformed to established standards.

The process of wall insulation in the steam room.

Steam room in a wooden bath

Although wooden house already in itself perfectly retains heat, additional insulation will not hurt here. In order to ensure complete thermal insulation of the steam room, a layer of insulating materials should be laid under the floor, in the gaps between the logs and in the space between the roof and the ceiling.

Choosing a heater

Insulation for a steam bath should be chosen carefully:

  1. The most common method of insulation using inexpensive and non-toxic substances - fiberglass or mineral basalt wool. In addition, such materials are absolutely non-combustible.

When carrying out work, protect the eyes and skin of the face, hands from the smallest particles of these substances, which can cause severe irritation.

  1. Some use expanded polystyrene for these purposes, which is distinguished by a low price.. In this case, it is undesirable to use it, since it is combustible, and we are dealing with a wooden structure.

This material can successfully carry out the insulation of the loggia, but in the case of wooden bath better to play it safe.

We warm the floor

Bath pit.

The average temperature in a Russian steam bath ranges from 65-90˚C. Moreover, this temperature level must be maintained for a long time. Therefore, first of all, you should achieve minimum losses heat through the floor in the bath, for which it should be insulated. It is the floor insulation in the steam room that is the first stage of work, since it is carried out even before the construction of the building.

Consider how to insulate the floor in the steam room.

The instruction consists of the following steps:

  • A pit should be dug under the bath, the depth of which should be about 50 cm.
  • First of all, we pour a layer of sand into the pit, about 5 cm thick.
  • Next, we lay the foam, which should have a thickness of at least 20 cm.
  • Next comes the cement mortar, which is mixed with foam chips in a 1: 1 ratio. Its thickness should be about 5 cm.
  • After pouring the cement solution mixed with vermiculite in a ratio of 1: 1, with a layer of 5 cm.
  • Lay on top reinforcing mesh with a cell of 10 by 10 cm.
  • The reinforcement should be poured with an ordinary concrete solution, the layer thickness of which is 5 cm.

When laying the last layer of concrete, achieve a slope of 5 degrees towards the future water flow.

The reinforcing mesh is poured with concrete.

  • Concrete floor ready. On top of it, it is already possible to lay a wooden floor, while leaving gaps through which water will drain and the room will be ventilated.

We insulate the ceiling

  1. We start internal work from the ceiling, covering it with a layer of clean paper.
  2. Bars should be strengthened on paper, which are slightly thicker than the layer of insulation for the bath.
  3. We put a heater, which we press with retaining strips.

Thermal insulation of the steam room: a schematic representation

We insulate the walls

Wall insulation is similar to previous ceiling insulation work.

Deciduous wood paneling is most often used as wall and ceiling cladding, since this material does not emit resin under the influence of high temperatures.

Insulation of a brick bath

Despite the fact that brick is not very popular in the construction bath rooms, however, such a building can be an excellent alternative to a traditional log cabin. You can insulate a brick bath well with your own hands, while the result of the work will meet all expectations.

In this case, special attention should be paid to the steam room, because it is this room that is the “holy of holies” of the traditional Russian bath.

The main stages of thermal insulation of a brick bath

The procedure for warming the floor in a brick steam room is similar to the complex of works carried out for wooden buildings.

Wall insulation in a brick steam room is carried out already at the stage of their laying.

Since the brick tends to absorb water well, the walls laid out from this material should not touch the ground.

To do this, the base is pasted over with roofing material, or coated with mastic, which consists of talc, bitumen, asbestos and lime.

  1. Walls should be laid out with well masonry. It is made in half a brick in two rows. Such a wall should be no more than 40 cm thick.
  2. The gap between the rows should be provided for about 15 cm, it is thanks to him that thermal insulation will be provided.
  3. In between should be placed a layer of light insulation. Great option will become expanded clay, slag, sawdust etc.

Nowadays, the insulation of the walls of the steam room by this method is increasingly being done using modern materials, which include mineral wool and polystyrene. They can be glued or installed by surprise, precisely fitting the dimensions of the cavity to be filled.

The photo shows the insulation of the well masonry with ecowool.

Walls insulated with this method are not completely protected from heat loss. To do this, it is necessary to make wall cladding from the inside.

Sheathing the walls from the inside

If you are interested in how to properly insulate a steam room, then you should know that without inner lining walls it is impossible to achieve really high-quality insulation of the bath.

Internal thermal insulation of the walls in the bath

  1. Using self-tapping screws on a brick wall should be fixed wooden slats with a step of 50 cm. It is on them that the lining will be attached.
  2. We lay the gaps between the slats with a thin layer of sheet or roll insulation. It is best to use mineral wool for this purpose.
  3. The insulation should be covered with foil, the main purpose of which is to ensure the proper level of waterproofing.
  4. After that, the walls are sheathed with clapboard.

Ceiling insulation with foam.

The insulation of the ceiling in the steam room should be more dense than in the case of walls. The fact is that warm air tends to constantly strive upward, which means that heat loss through the ceiling can be very large. Therefore, here the heater should not be spared.

Scheme: thermal insulation of the bath ceiling

Advice! In order to insulate the ceiling of the bath from the side of the roof, the easiest way is to use a 15-cm layer of mineral wool covering the entire ceiling surface.

Consider how to properly insulate the ceiling in the steam room from the inside:

  1. We lay vapor barrier foil on the floor boards. Carefully glue it with aluminum tape. Ideally, there should not be even the smallest gap between the ceiling surface and the foil.
  2. Styrofoam plates should be laid on the foil, the gaps between which should be sealed with mounting foam.
  3. We mount sheets of facing material.

Conclusion

In this article, you learned how to insulate a steam room from the inside. As you can see, with the right approach, this procedure is not difficult, but you should approach the warming of the steam room with all consciousness, since negligence in work will significantly affect the properties of this room.

Proper thermal insulation of the steam room is no less important than insulation plastic windows in an apartment, when poor-quality work becomes very noticeable with the advent of cold weather.

Steam room insulation: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of work in a brick bath, how to properly insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, price, photo


Steam room insulation: do-it-yourself video installation instructions, features of work in a brick bath, how to properly insulate the floor, walls, ceiling, price,

How to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath

We do the finishing of the steam room in a brick bath with our own hands

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of the steam room for maintaining health, vitality, and good mood. Pleasant steam and heat that affect the human body contribute to the removal of toxins and slags from it, an oak or birch broom provides the highest quality of all types of massage, saturates the body with natural herbal medicinal substances. Such a struggle with various ailments, of course, is much more pleasant than bitter pills and physiotherapy procedures carried out in a hospital physical room. Therefore, almost every owner country house seeks to build a bath with a steam room on his site.

The dimensions of the sauna house and the layout of the steam room

Although the dimensions of the bath may be different, the dimensions of the steam room, the methods of its construction and decoration must fully comply with the canons of the bath. Building a steam room that is too large in the face of rising fuel prices is unlikely to be advisable: inside a large room it will be quite difficult to maintain an optimal temperature and humidity regime.

  • if several people are supposed to stay in the steam room at the same time, then each of them should have 2-3 sq.m of space
  • ceiling height should be planned about 2.1 m - 2.3 m.

Windows in the steam room should not be made - a space unprotected by thermal insulation will require an increase in the amount of heat given off by the stove, and therefore an increase in fuel costs. In addition, a window as a ventilation element, as it was in the old days, is also not required - the room will be heated in white, i.e. soot and smoke will be removed from it through the ventilation ducts.

The layout of the rooms in the bath should be well thought out, it should provide for the possibility of heating this bath house using a stove installed in the steam room. Rational option the following location can be considered:

  • the locker room should follow the vestibule,
  • next can be a rest room,
  • from it it is necessary to equip the door to the washing room, then to the steam room.

In this case, the steam room will be a room adjacent to the washing room and the rest room.

Experts say that only such an arrangement of the premises will make it possible to select an advantageous model of a heating unit, for example, with an external fuel channel that allows you to melt the stove from the rest room or a portable heat sink that provides hot water washing block.

How to insulate a steam room

Although traditional material for the construction of a bath with a steam room is wood, a brick structure with proper wall construction and high-quality thermal insulation can be an excellent alternative to the traditional option. It is quite possible to carry out a high-quality installation of a thermal insulation system on your own, while you should pay attention Special attention warming the most important bath room - a steam room. All will be subject to insulation. structural elements: walls and ceilings, floors and roof.

we warm the floors

Floor insulation is carried out in the same way as in wooden structure. Under the bath house, you should dig a pit about half a meter deep. Sand (5 cm) is poured into it, then foam is laid, the layer thickness is 20 cm. Then the structure is poured with a five-centimeter layer cement mortar, including foam plastic, then - a five-centimeter layer of cement mortar with vermiculite. After laying the reinforcing layer with a cell of 10x10 cm, a layer of concrete prepared according to the usual recipe is poured. When pouring the last layer, a slope of about 5 degrees should be made to the side where the water outlet will be located.

how to properly insulate the walls of the steam room

Wall insulation is carried out in two stages - when laying the wall, well masonry is used, between the rows of bricks there should be a gap of about 15 cm. Its filling with expanded clay, slag or sawdust, mineral wool or foam plastic will create a good thermal insulation system. But to place a steam room, it will not be enough - you will need to perform additional lining of the inner surface of the walls. First, rails are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws (50 cm step), the gaps between them are filled with a layer of rolled or sheet heat-insulating material. Felt and cork are considered ideal from the point of view of environmental friendliness. For their manufacture, natural raw materials are used; under the influence of high temperature, they do not emit toxic substances. Often mineral wool is used for the purpose of thermal insulation.

It is not recommended to use foam plastic for insulating the inner surface of walls - when heated to a temperature higher than +60 degrees, destructive processes begin in it, causing rapid aging of the material. In addition, the destruction of macromolecules occurs with the release of phenol, a substance that is toxic to humans.

Foil can be used as a vapor barrier. It is able to protect the insulation layer from excessive moisture. It is not recommended to use polyethylene film as a vapor barrier for steam room walls. After mounting the foil layer, decorative trim clapboard wigs.

thermal and waterproofing of ceilings

Of no small importance for maintaining heat in the steam room is the ceiling: the warm air that is in the room tends to rise. Since heat loss through the ceiling can be very large, it is carefully insulated. The installation of a layer of insulation, which is mineral wool, is carried out from the side of the attic, with a layer of about 15 cm over the entire ceiling surface. For thermal insulation of the ceiling, glass wool or expanded clay can also be used. Sometimes they use the old method of warming - a mixture of clay with sawdust.

When laying the heat-insulating layer, special attention is paid to the junction of materials with the chimney - it should be coated with fire-retardant mastic or insulated with non-combustible asbestos materials. From the side of the room, the ceiling must be subjected to vapor barrier - it will protect the wooden fragments from moisture. Ideally, even the smallest gaps should not remain between the ceiling and the surface of the foil. Aluminum tape is used to fasten the foil. On top of the layer, you can install finishing materials.

Do-it-yourself steam room - we create a cozy and sincere atmosphere

To get charged positive energy from visiting the steam room, you should create an atmosphere comfortable for a person in it, ennoble its interior, using only environmentally friendly and safe materials for humans. The most common and suitable of these is natural wood. Here it should be clarified that the masters in the construction of baths with a steam room emphasize that not every tree can be used as a finish. Preference is given to wood varieties with high density, low thermal conductivity, resistance to moisture. The wood of coniferous trees is not used for finishing the steam room - it contains a lot of resins, which, when the air is heated, will form spots on the surface of the finishing material.

The most suitable for finishing the steam room will be:

  • linden wood, which is an accumulator of positive and useful energy for humans, has a delicate and pleasant smell, has a beautiful texture and is easy to process;
  • aspen board, characterized by high quality characteristics, removing negative energies from the room, having a slight smell;
  • abachi wood, with low thermal conductivity, attractive core pattern and neutral energy.

To create a special healing aroma in the steam room, sometimes overlays are attached to the walls of the steam room - boards conifers, for example - cedar. If such an air freshener gets tired of it, you can remove it or change it to another one.

What should be the doors of the steam room

Like any other room, the steam room should be equipped with a door. Since the room is supposed to have a special temperature and humidity regime, the door will also need to be not quite ordinary. It should not heat up with temperature changes or change dimensions with increasing humidity. environment, ensure the safety of heat in the room, be an interior decoration. The door to the steam room is usually made deaf, made of linden, alder, aspen wood.

If desired, it can be made one or two-leaf, its dimensions should be smaller than that of a conventional door. The following dimensions of the door leaf will be sufficient:

  • width 0.7 - 0.7 m
  • height 1.5 - 1.7 m
  • the threshold between the washing room and the steam room is not set, and the gap between the door and the floor should be 0.05 m.

Furnace in the steam room and its decoration

In a modern steam room, the stove, in addition to its immediate functions, plays the role of a decorative element. Often, instead of a steel sheet that is very simple in appearance, the screen for the stove is constructed from masonry or brickwork.

Metal stoves have a fairly attractive high-tech design. A wide variety of options for heating units will allow you to choose the best option for a room of any size. The brazier can also be placed in different ways - in the center of the room or one of its corners, in a niche or opening.

Bath furniture

Since the steam room is a relaxation room, it should have an aesthetic appearance. Well-thought-out design, special placement of shelves in the steam room: like a fan, steps or compartments, elimination of corners in furniture and wall boxes allow you to visually expand the room, make it more spacious and voluminous.

Scoops and tubs placed on the shelves in the steam room, stands for the head or feet made of natural wood will serve as an excellent addition to emphasize the style.

The bath shelves themselves must be built in accordance with the rules to ensure sufficient comfort for users. Often bath shelves are called varnishes, in fact they are. Shelves have different heights and are arranged in accordance with a special scheme. According to the design of the shelves, it is a frame of racks connected by transverse jumpers. Sometimes the frame is made without supports, fastening it to the wall according to the principle of shelves in a railway car. The flooring is made from polished aspen or linden boards, attached to the frame or separate ladders are built. It is more convenient to have loose floorings - they can be ventilated and dried on outdoors. According to the same principle, the side parts of the shelves, seat backs, and bath pillows are built.

Since steam rooms are often built without windows, an option should be provided quality lighting. To create a pleasant atmosphere, you can choose the option of subdued lighting with illuminated seats and wall sconces, with a luminous ceiling (starry sky), etc. With the goal of creating a safe and aesthetic lighting option, it is best to focus on fiber optic systems.

How to extend the “life” of the steam room

Because the natural materials, including wood, often do not withstand long-term operation in extreme conditions, then in order to extend the life of the steam room, some simple rules her equipment and care.

  1. All wooden components must be treated with a special impregnation made on natural oils. It prevents active absorption of moisture, fatty substances, dirt.
  2. Periodically, the steam room should be carefully cleaned, ventilated, removing portable furniture from it.
  3. The room must be equipped with high-quality ventilation, allowing the supply of fresh air in sufficient quantities to the room.

We do the finishing of the steam room in a brick bath with our own hands


How to properly insulate a steam room in a brick bath We do the finishing of a steam room in a brick bath with our own hands It is difficult to overestimate the importance of a steam room for maintaining

Often, brick is used as a structural material for the construction of a bath. Many believe that a brick building does not need additional sealing, but this is nothing more than a myth. This material has a high thermal conductivity, which makes the bath poorly protected from the penetration of cold air, so warming a brick bath is a must.

There are two ways to insulate a bath, like any brick structure:

  • From within
  • Outside

Each method is good for something. In construction, it just doesn't exist. ideal solutions. Therefore, we will consider in detail each of the options so that any owner can choose what is best for him.

From within

It is clear that insulation from the inside involves attaching insulation to structural material indoors.

The advantages of this method:

  • From the inside, you can insulate the bath in the process of reconstruction or repair
  • No dependence on weather conditions. Internal insulation can be produced at any free time for the builder.
  • The outwardly aesthetic appearance of brickwork is preserved.

The method also has a number of disadvantages:

  • Significantly reduced interior space
  • Internal insulation always works worse than external insulation, ceteris paribus
  • For internal insulation, you will have to more carefully choose thermal insulation materials. Outside air absolutely does not care what substances or particles are released into it. But no one wants to breathe phenols, which emit mineral wool insulation on a glass basis.

It is also worth noting that the inside of the bath is insulated much more often than the outside.

Outside

Outside, insulation is always more efficient, but this method involves the arrangement of a ventilated facade. A ventilated facade means that the house is covered with siding, which does not always suit the owner.

If we are talking about a bath, then the interior space will still have to be insulated and waterproofed in order to protect the brick from the aggressive environment of the steam room. A constant cycle of heating and cooling will simply destroy the brick in 2-3 years. Therefore, protection is essential. For the combination of these reasons, most of owners prefer to insulate the bath from the inside.

Of course, you can take care of the combined insulation of the complex. That's just it means double the cost with a minimum of real benefit. And any insulation should be as cheap as possible. Because few people want to spend huge sums when the main part of the building has already been built.

The choice of material for insulation

Special requirements are imposed on the materials for warming the bath, including:

  • Fire resistance. The temperature in the steam room is always elevated, so it is desirable that the heaters have the ability to withstand temperatures up to 100 degrees. Of course, in the steam room the temperature rarely rises above 70, but it's better to play it safe.
  • Environmental friendliness. Some heaters, when exposed to elevated temperatures, do not burn, but emit harmful substances. This is unacceptable for any interior, and not just for a bath.
  • Moisture resistance. In addition to high temperatures, the bath is constantly high humidity. This is a problem that is often solved with different kind protective films. But ideally, the insulation itself should also be calm about high humidity.
  • Undemanding for operation. There are heaters that become unusable during operation on an accelerated cycle. This refers to constant heating and cooling. For a bath, several such cycles can take place in a day, and therefore the insulating materials must be stable.

You also need to focus on price and ease of installation. Any insulation should be as cheap as possible. Consider the specific materials that are used for internal insulation of the bath:

  • Foam glass. Good material which does not require additional vapor barrier. On the contrary, when using foam glass, it is necessary to solve the issue of ventilation of the inner surface of the brickwork in order to prevent the appearance of fungus on the brick.
  • Basalt mineral wool. The most popular material for warming any structures. Of course, basalt mineral wool requires additional hydro and vapor barrier, but it is easy to install and has a reasonable price tag.
  • Ecowool. This is a new generation advertising hit. Advertising often uses the prefix eco-friendly to push the product to a new level. In fact, ecowool is a foamed cellulose with various kinds of impregnations, which should minimize the risk of fire and exposure to pests. The fire hazard can be reduced as a result of processing to the G2 grade, and yet, it is highly recommended not to use ecowool to insulate the bath.
  • organic heaters. The most common organic heater for a bath: sawdust. Their use is justified by low cost and absolute environmental friendliness. But insulation with sawdust is an extremely lengthy process. In addition, there is the possibility of fire, so it is better to refrain from using organic matter.

Foam glass - material for warming a brick bath

DIY thermal insulation technology

Let's talk about the thermal insulation of each individual section of the bath.

Wall insulation

Wall insulation always begins with waterproofing. Water must not get on the inner surface brickwork, otherwise the brick will begin to collapse. Therefore, first of all, waterproof the surface. The next step is the crate device. It is made from boards that are installed on an edge parallel to the floor. It is desirable to select the width of the board taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Separately, we will tell you why a board is used for the crate, and not metal? Metallic profile it is just as easy to install, and it may be even easier for someone to work with metal guides. Everything is really so, only for a steam room every saved percentage of heat is important, and every piece of metal is a possibility of leakage of thermal energy. These are the so-called cold bridges through which Vata flows out. Therefore, it is better to use wood for the crate, which has a much lower coefficient of thermal conductivity.

The next step is laying the insulation. The insulation must be laid tightly, leaving no gaps between the board and the mats. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, which is then closed with clapboard or any other facing material. There must be a ventilation gap between the cladding and the vapor barrier; without it, the vapor barrier becomes simply useless.

Hot air escapes through the ceiling, rising above the cold air. The main danger for the ceiling is the soaking of the insulation. After the rough surface is filled, the process of arranging thermal protection begins.


Logs are carefully wrapped with a waterproof film. You can put the film joint to joint using a special tape. Mineral wool mats are laid on top. For the ceiling, it is better to use a double layer of mats, blocking the gaps between the two mats. top layer. This will reduce heat loss and create a small ventilation gap between the two layers of insulation. Instead of mineral wool boards, you can cover the entire space with rolls. In this case, you need to ensure that there are no joints between the rolls.

The insulation is closed with a vapor barrier membrane, and then boarded up with boards. This completes the insulation of the ceiling, but we must not forget that when the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to separately equip the cutting with insulation, and a protective screen is required on the wall.

Floor thermal protection

A brick bath is usually built on strip foundation. This means that there will be cold ground under the floor. Therefore, insulation must be started even before the construction of the rough floor surface. First, level the ground. Ideally, this should be done in layers:

  • large stone
  • rubble
  • Sand

But most often just sand is used, from which a leveling pad 20 cm thick is formed. After that, the sand is covered with a cut-off film. Special attention should be paid to the edges of the film: they should go 20-30 cm onto the wall. The next step: backfilling of expanded clay and a floor screed device.

Logs are installed directly on the screed, which are covered with waterproofing. The space between the lags is laid with insulation plates.

The hydro and vapor barrier film is re-layed, which is covered with a rough wooden floor surface.

The floor arranged in this way will not let in moisture and will not cause huge heat losses.

We warm the steam room

Separately, we note the warming of the steam room. In fact, most often it is not required to separate the steam room into a separate thermal protection circuit. It is enough to create the same insulation around the entire perimeter of the bath. But this applies only to small baths about 4x4 meters in size. If the bath has big sizes, additional steps need to be taken:

  1. Hydro and vapor barrier is laid in a double layer
  2. When installing the floor between the draft and draft surfaces, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid.
  3. It is better to lay the insulation in 2 layers of the same thickness as throughout the bath. That is, a plate is taken half the thickness and is laid in two layers.

Separately, it should be noted the need for ventilation in the steam room. As a rule, an inflow is arranged at the bottom of the stove, and an exhaust hood under the ceiling. The most primitive version of the exhaust and inflow is a pipe in the wall with a duct section regulator. However, the use of bricks makes it possible to equip the hood on the roof, which will reduce heat loss with outgoing air.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in warming a brick bath. The main thing is to purchase the required material in advance and try to do all the work in one stage, without being distracted by anything else. Otherwise, there are practically no difficulties, the main thing is patience and attentiveness.

A brick bath outperforms a wooden one in that the walls do not require special waterproofing and fire protection. The brick is absolutely not afraid of fire, and it absorbs little moisture. But he has a “weak spot” - high thermal conductivity, which prevents bath rooms from warming up quickly and retaining heat as much as possible. Insulation of a brick bath helps to increase the thermal insulation properties of the steam room and other rooms. Without it, the heating time of the building increases by about 3 times, and the cooling rate is high. Consider how to insulate a brick bath and all its structural elements using materials that are safe for health.

A private bath is used periodically, so it makes no sense to maintain a constant positive temperature inside it. True, a cold brick will freeze through in winter, and if you start heating, then most of the heat will be spent on heating it. And what is the point of heating the stone? If the walls are insulated from the outside, then the entire brick will be inside the pie, covered only by the clapboard. And you have to spend money on heating it, whether you like it or not.

With internal insulation, the brick box will remain outside the cake, and a layer of insulation will insulate it. In this case, your expenses for heating the premises will decrease, because the insulation will not let hot air out and, with proper installation, will give most of it back into the premises.

Internal insulation of the walls of the bath

Consider options for how to insulate a brick bath from the inside.

Option 1. Create a second wall

Most often, second walls are erected inside a brick box. The material is a bar-ten, which in itself warm material and when heated does not emit harmful components.

Mount the cake as follows:

  • A crate is stuffed onto the brick.
  • A waterproofing film is fixed along the crate.
  • Install timber walls.
  • A second crate is stuffed over them.
  • Close the beam with fiberglass, fixing it to the crate with a stapler. Between the bars of the crate, the fiberglass is not stretched, but an overlap is made, so that later it is easy to place a heater.
  • Insulation plates are inserted into the spans between the crate.
  • To protect the heat insulator from internal steam, it is covered with foil or vapor barrier film on top.
  • The lining is stuffed last.

The foil is attached to the crate construction stapler without pulling too hard

Regardless of the type of insulation, its thickness must be at least 10 cm. harmful substances. For this, basalt or fiberglass heaters are optimally suited, which are not afraid of moisture. If there is a desire to close the timber with polystyrene foam materials, then it is better to choose penoplex. It has a higher resistance to high temperatures than foam, and in the event of a fire, this insulation tends to self-extinguish. But still do not do the warming of the steam room in a brick bath with polystyrenes. With strong heating (over 100 degrees), they will begin to char and release toxins. For the steam room, it is worth taking only basalt materials.

Option 2. Double layer of insulation

Considering options for how to insulate a brick bath, you can focus on creating a double layer of insulation. Its difference from the 1st is that instead of timber walls, an additional 10-centimeter insulation is laid in the crate.

The wall cake will look like this:

  • Brick.
  • Waterproofing.
  • Crate.
  • Insulation.
  • Waterproofing.
  • Second crate.
  • Fiberglass.
  • Insulation.
  • Vapor barrier.
  • Clapboard.

The thickness of the internal insulation pie will be about 22 cm.

When choosing a heater, line the first layer (closer to the brick) with extruded polystyrene foam. He is not afraid of moisture, so external vapors that have got through the brick are not dangerous for him. Choose the second, inner layer of insulation, taking into account the room in which you will lay. In all rooms, except for the steam room, it is worth closing with foil foam. This foam material is covered on one side with a thin layer of foil, which will simultaneously reflect IR rays and become a barrier to internal vapors.

For a steam room, it is better to choose a basalt insulation, and close it with a special foil for baths on top. So you will avoid the release of harmful substances during strong heating of the room. Joints in foil insulation and foil are sealed with special aluminum tape.

Foundation insulation

A powerful conductor of cold in the bath is the foundation, because concrete materials are chosen for it, which are not characteristic of thermal insulation characteristics. Even before the erection of brick walls, the upper part of the foundation is waterproofed with roofing felt or roofing paper in order to prevent moisture from the soil from entering the brick. But this is not enough. It is necessary to carry out external insulation of the entire surface of the walls of the base in order to increase the level of heat saving of the floors and to exclude movements and shrinkage of the foundation. On Russian lands, many soils are heaving, i.e. in winter, when freezing, they expand their volume. As a result, the pressure on the foundation increases, and this leads to distortions and cracks in the foundation. If you lay a layer of insulation between the soil and the walls, it will soften the pressure and make the structure stable.

For insulation, it is better to choose from two options for insulation: foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. In fact, both materials have approximately equal specifications:

  • not afraid of ground movements;
  • have increased compressive strength;
  • waterproof;
  • high quality thermal insulators.

You will have to choose based on your construction skills and the state of finances. So, spraying with polyurethane foam will cost significantly more than foam plastic, but craftsmen will do it for you in a day. At the same time, the main advantage of such a heater will be a continuous, durable coating in which there are no joints. Those. moisture and frost will not be able to find loopholes to penetrate deep into foundation slab.

Penoplex is produced in plates, and they are fixed to the walls of the foundation with special mastic or adhesive composition. Any owner who has an idea about construction will cope with this. But for the day to mount the insulation will not work. This is a slow process, because the plates must be tightly joined, all seams must be sealed, and the corners must be blown out mounting foam.

Floor insulation

The floors in the bath have to withstand both high humidity and the temperature difference between the ground and the premises. Therefore, before the installation of concrete floor slabs, the entire subfloor should be covered with expanded clay or slag. Moreover, the layer of the insulating pillow is calculated based on the thickness of the walls. If the walls are 20 cm, then expanded clay should be 40 cm. The subfloor is not used in the baths, so fill the entire internal space of the foundation with insulation. This will provide additional dryness to concrete or logs.

How to insulate a concrete floor

  • If the floors are concrete, then the insulation of the brick bath from the inside begins with the waterproofing of the floor slabs. They are coated with water-repellent mastics (for example, rubber), and a rolled waterproofing agent is laid on top - roofing material or a special film.
  • Foam or foam plastic is laid on top of the waterproofing.
  • From above it is reinforced with a metal mesh and poured with a layer of concrete.
  • The last stage is pasting with floor tiles.

Expanded clay pillow improves the quality of thermal insulation of floors in the bath, regardless of the material of the walls

wood flooring technology

It should be borne in mind that for baths, wooden floors are not too a good option because wood is afraid of high humidity. But if you have conceived just such a floor, then first of all take care of the quality of ventilation in the underground. Without it, the logs and beams will instantly rot.

  • The expanded clay pillow, which was mentioned earlier, must also be created in this case.
  • Beams and logs treated with antiseptics are laid along the top.
  • They are covered with a vapor barrier film.
  • Lay rough floors from edged board.
  • Lay foam.
  • Close the insulation with a waterproofing film.
  • Lay wooden finishing floors.

Insulated ceiling: not afraid of heat and steam

If we consider how to insulate a brick bath in a complex way, then we must definitely pay attention to the ceilings. Most of the hot air escapes through them, so a blockade is simply necessary here. But the climate of the bath, especially in the steam room, is very different. high temperatures in the upper part of the structure, because both heat and vapor, according to the laws of physics, rush to the ceiling. So its design must be resistant to moisture and hot air. We immediately exclude polystyrene foam materials, because in such heat they will harm human health.

If you study the insulation of a brick bath from the inside on the video, then most experts recommend insulating the ceiling with mineral wool, but with mandatory double-sided waterproofing. Also a good option is to lay fiberglass on the ceiling, two clay-sand layers (one with sawdust, the second with vermiculite) and on top of all this - foam. But again, for a steam room it is better to take not polystyrene foam, but foil-coated fiberglass.

Fiberglass is laid with foil inside the steam room so that it beats maximum amount heat and steam

With proper insulation of a brick bath, you will significantly speed up its heating and reduce the cost of maintaining the desired temperature while soaring.

Comparing a brick bath with a wooden one, you understand that it wins several times over in terms of quality. First, the brick does not burn. Secondly, it is not at all afraid of moisture, so there is no need to cover brick walls with moisture-resistant and antiseptic compounds.

But this material has decent thermal conductivity, which makes brick baths poorly protected from the penetration of cold air. Therefore, such a process as warming a brick bath is a prerequisite for the construction of this building.

The best option is insulation from the outside. But there are situations when thermal insulation measures can only be carried out from the inside. For example, if the bath is built right next to some other building. Or Brick wall fulfills the role facade decoration. But there is another explanation why it is better to insulate from the inside than from the outside.

The bath is heated intermittently, so in winter its walls freeze through. And if you start to heat it, then all the heat will go to warm the walls, and only after that to the interior. So, in this article we will consider the second option - warming a brick bath from the inside.

Insulation options

Let us immediately state that there is a large number of different ways, where different heat-insulating, and not only, materials are used. Consider the main options that you can do with your own hands.

Option number 1

This method is considered by the masters to be the simplest, so it will not be possible to carry it out with your own hands. big problem. It is based on the process of wall insulation with heat-insulating materials, which are placed in the crate or without it. Here is the sequence of this process:

  • The internal surfaces of the walls must be waterproofed. To do this, it is necessary to level them with plaster or putty, and after drying, apply coating waterproofing. We recommend using bitumen-based mastics. It is rare that rolled material is used for these purposes.
  • Next, a crate of wooden beams, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.
  • Now insulation is laid between the elements of the crate.

Advice! Optimal Thickness heat insulator for bath rooms - 200 mm. It is necessary to lay the insulation between the beams in an interference fit so that there are no gaps that will become cold bridges. Please note that in this case, the thickness of the insulation and the width of the beam must be the same.

  • After that, a vapor barrier membrane is stretched directly along the crate. She is attached to wooden elements with metal staples. Therefore, you will have to purchase a stapler.
  • And already on the crate itself, the lining is mounted.
  • Now a waterproofing membrane is stretched and fastened along the crate.
  • Next, a second wall is built. It is most often erected from wooden beams with a section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. Please note that the elements of the new wall must fit tightly to each other. This thickness wooden wall is already an excellent indicator of thermal insulation.
  • And now you need to decide whether to use additional insulation or not. If "yes", then new wall the crate is assembled, where the heat insulator is laid. A vapor barrier or foil roll material is installed on top of the crate. If there is no need for insulation, then the crate is mounted anyway, only from rails of small thickness. A waterproofing material is stretched on top of the frame.

Advice! In the bath there is a fairly large number of different rooms that carry their purely purpose. So in all rooms except the steam room, you can use any heat-insulating materials as a heater. In a steam room, insulation with a foil layer cannot be used.

Insulation of other building elements

In addition to walls in a brick bath, insulation of other structures is also required. Those who carry out these construction operations for the first time with their own hands make one important mistake. They do not insulate the foundation. But in vain. Thermal insulation of the floor is not the final stage when it comes to the compliance of the lower structures of the building with thermal insulation standards. Just like walls, floors and foundations freeze through in winter if they were built from concrete mortar. Insulation of both building elements is the basis for reducing fuel consumption and heat loss. Therefore, the foundation will have to be insulated.

The easiest option is to stick to it internal surfaces foam boards. Their thickness of 5-7 cm is the best option. It is important here that there are no gaps between the panels. Although this trouble can be corrected by foaming the slots with mounting foam.
Do not forget to insulate the ceiling, and if possible, the roof. The more investments in thermal insulation, the less heat loss, which means savings on fuel consumption, which is used to heat the bath and heat hot water for washing.

So, only two options were proposed, answering the question of how to insulate a brick bath. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in these methods; even a beginner can do them with their own hands. Here it is important to accurately follow the stages of ongoing construction operations, plus be able to use simple construction tools. But do not forget that both methods are associated with wooden products that must be treated with antiseptics.