Well      06/11/2019

How to fasten sheets of plywood together. Types of glue for plywood and features of its use. How much glue is needed to lay plywood on a concrete surface

Plywood - building material, active use required by furniture, packaging and even the automotive industry. Wood veneer is used to manufacture this multilayer material. coniferous trees. Result - solid construction, which can be fastened with screws, nails and bolts, but most convenient option is glue.

Plywood laying methods

How to glue plywood to plywood? The most environmentally friendly is water-based glue. It is completely odorless, it can be diluted with water and used instead of a primer. Such styling requires additional fastening, and the main disadvantage is long drying.

The adhesive, which is based on a solvent, dries a little less - 3-5 days. In this case, it is necessary to pre-impregnate the concrete screed with a special primer. The downside is the strong smell.

How to glue plywood to plywood and save time at the same time? This desire can be maximally satisfied by using it. It dries for about 24 hours and does not need dowel nails.

How to choose glue for plywood

Solving the question of how plywood is better to plywood, depends on the type of connection and further operating conditions. The process can be presented self-assembly plywood screed or carry additional function, for example, to strengthen the structure.

If you plan to use uncoated plywood, then you can purchase any glue. The main requirement is a dry and clean surface. To apply the composition on both surfaces to be glued, it is better to use a roller or brush. After that, you can strengthen the plywood connection with nails, screws or clamps. Finally, you need to remove the excess mixture.

How to glue plywood to plywood if solid sheets are to be used? You just need to cover the surfaces with a mixture, and then press them with temporary dowel-nails.

It is not recommended to glue a laminated surface covered with a film, therefore, before applying the epoxy composition, the sheets must be cleaned with sandpaper.

How to glue plywood to plywood so as not to disturb the texture of the material and not cause discoloration, but at the same time get a high-strength structure? For internal works PVA glue is ideal, and for outdoor - phenol or

The level of reliability of the connection is affected not only by the applied mixture, but also by strict adherence to the recommendations, since if the latter are violated, the properties of the adhesive may not fully open.

Glue composition

At the heart of almost any glue for gluing plywood are the following components:

  • main adhesive ingredient;
  • solvent;
  • filler, which is usually used as wood dust or flour;
  • additives, on which the curing rate and maximum adhesion directly depend;
  • plasticizer;
  • antiseptic.

The hardener is usually some kind of acid or ammonium chloride, and resistance to wetting is guaranteed by the presence of tannins (formalin, copper salts, etc.).

Adhesive Requirements

Glue for plywood should have the following positive qualities:

  • reliable fastening of materials;
  • ease of use at home;
  • good moisture resistance;
  • not susceptible to the destructive effects of bacteria and fungi.

It is equally important that the adhesive does not destroy the wood veneer and does not change its color.

Which glue is better: "KS" or "Tarbikol"?

When deciding how to glue plywood to plywood, people most often opt for "KS" or "Tabrikol".

A little more about their properties and features:


Influence of plywood brand on the choice of adhesive composition

The brand of suitable glue for plywood directly depends on the level of strength required and on how high the humidity is in the room in which the structure is planned to be used.

What kind of glue to glue plywood to plywood, if ready product will be in a well ventilated area? PVA, protein or synthetic is well suited.

If you plan to make country furniture, which will be both indoors and outdoors, then it is better to use one of the synthetic compositions.

Once the choice has been made in favor of a moisture-resistant material for the interior, it is necessary to determine how to glue the plywood to the plywood. Reviews indicate that the connection is best done with compounds based on the use of unlined sheets makes it possible to glue plywood with any type of glue.

How much glue do you need to lay plywood on a concrete surface?

The amount of consumption depends on the number of irregularities, the presence or absence of porosity and the quality of the screed. It should be based on the recommended consumption of 1.2-1.5 kg / m 2, but do not forget that the plywood must be laid on the base without voids. Only uniform pressing of the plywood to the base can ensure optimal distribution of the adhesive over the entire surface.

Tools and materials necessary for work

Before you start working with plywood, you should stock up on the following tools:

  • foam roller;
  • clamps;
  • hammer.

You also need to prepare the necessary materials:

  • blanks;
  • sanding paper;
  • nails.

Plywood gluing sequence

Before you get started, you should figure out how to glue plywood to plywood. The instructions below explain in as much detail as possible all the subtleties of this process:

  1. At the beginning plywood sheets need to be cleaned from dust and various kinds of contaminants. To remove the laminated layer, you will need
  2. Then the plywood should be thoroughly dried.
  3. The distribution of glue to obtain an even layer is recommended to be carried out using a roller.
  4. Now you need to press the plywood parts together with clamps. It is recommended to remove protruding excess with a knife and rags.
  5. If there are large parts, then they will need to be connected with nails.
  6. Finally, when the adhesive mass is completely dry, the product must be released from the clamps.

Coffee table from plywood scraps

Much has been said about how to glue plywood to plywood, but how to make something useful from this material?

After various repair work there are a lot of plywood scraps that just go to the trash can.

But it is these pieces that are ideal, for example, for creating an unusual and beautiful coffee table.

List of materials and tools needed for work:

  • a whole piece of thick cardboard small size for template;
  • many plywood pieces of the same thickness, from which the main structure will be made;
  • moisture resistant glue for wooden surfaces;
  • jigsaw;
  • pencil;
  • vise;
  • a circular saw;
  • Sander;

Gluing plywood: a practical example

How to quickly make a plywood table? First you need to make a paper template for cutting the legs of the product. Coffee table will look good on openwork or curved legs.

You need to take a large sheet of paper and draw legs on it on a scale of 1: 1. When transferring the pattern to cardboard, remember that the finished design should be located on symmetrical legs.

After completing the work with the template, you can proceed to gluing the plywood pieces. The manufacture of the structure must be carried out so that the shape resembles the future legs of the table. The gluing of each 2 parts must be accompanied by the removal of excess mortar and tight compression of the plywood pieces. At the end of the work, the legs should be placed on a flat surface, put a template on top of them and circle its outline with a pencil. To trim the excess structure, you will need a jigsaw. Place a worktop on top of the product and connect the parts together.

Plywood is used for decoration and construction. If you know how to work with plywood correctly, it will help to avoid chips, cracks and the cost of buying additional materials.

When buying plywood in a supermarket, you can order a cut of the board on the spot. The cost of the service depends on the complexity of the parts and the sawing footage. If you decide to cut plywood yourself, use our recommendations.

Features of cutting plywood

Cutting plywood sheet is of three types:

  • Rectilinear - sawing vertically and horizontally at right angles.
  • Curvilinear - cutting according to patterns - along a curve.
  • Combined - the two previous types are used.

When using these methods, consider the grain direction of the veneer.

For cutting plywood at home, it is best to use a band or circular saw. A smooth edge at the site of the cut is obtained if you follow these rules:

  1. First of all, they cut across the fibers, and then along. In this case, the corners do not split.
  2. If the cut comes with front side, use a tape or hand saw. WITH inside use a circular or contour saw.
  3. When sawing with a circular saw, keep the blade speed high and the plywood sheet feed slow.
  4. For any sawing, use a saw with short teeth - the penetration should be small.
  5. Guide the saw with light pressure until it kicks back slightly - this way you will reduce the possibility of creases.
  6. To avoid chips and creases when cutting, you can stick construction tape along the line of the future cut.

drilling

In order to get holes with smooth edges, choose a sharp drill with a front cutter. Start drilling from the front side. Fix the plywood part before drilling.

To avoid chips and splits on the reverse side, place another sheet of plywood under the part.

Joining plywood sheets

Screws and nails are used to connect plywood parts.

Before screwing, the screw holes must be drilled. To prevent the screw head from damaging upper layer veneer, for it you need to cut a recess. To avoid damage to the sheet, do not overtighten the screws. The surface of the plywood can expand when exposed to moisture and crack near a screw that is too tight. For screws with a rounded (dome) cap, nuts are used for fastening from the inside.

Finishing and assembly plywood to metal structure fasten from the side of the structural beam so that the attachment point is not visible on the front side.

To mount the panels, special screws and threaded nails are used. The length of the nail is equal to two to three thicknesses of the plywood sheet. The frequency of hammering depends on the surface: for the floor, nails are hammered every 20 cm - 30 cm along the edge of the slab, and in the middle - every 40 cm. For wall and ceiling panels clogging frequency at the edges 10 cm - 20 cm, in the middle - 20 cm - 30 cm.

Connection types

The strength of the future structure depends on the strength of the connection and fastening of the plywood sheets to each other. There are many ways of joining (tongue, butt, tongue, etc.) plywood.

For mounting internal partitions(walls, roof) use butt joint, seam, open and strips. For outdoor installation, it is better to use aluminum profiles- they will protect the sheet from deformation. If plywood is mounted on the street open way. Then you need to process the edges of the sheets.

The most durable construction is obtained by attaching plywood to a stepped profile - in addition to reliability, it will provide additional protection from sheet deformation.

Always leave a gap between plywood sheets for expansion: 3mm - 6mm in butt joints and 2mm in other types of joints.

plywood finish

The finishing of plywood includes preparatory sanding, priming, edging and finishing.

Grind the sheet with coarse-grained sandpaper against the direction of the fibers. If you plan to paint or varnish plywood, then you should also sand it with fine-grained sandpaper in the direction of the fibers.

The edges of the plywood sheet (parts) should also be sanded. Grinding starts from the corners and moves towards the middle. If the edges are uneven after cutting, sharpen them and then grind. The ends are covered in several layers acrylic paint with special additives.

Plywood tends to expand under the influence of external factors and high-quality primer will protect the veneer from cracking. For finishing plywood, it is better to combine materials from one company with each other.

Before painting and varnishing, plywood is sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, and the sheet is thoroughly cleaned of dust.

For coatings, materials for wood are used: stains, paints, varnishes. You can mount plywood after complete drying.

If you need to cut a large number of sheets of plywood, it is better to contact companies that specialize in cutting and sawing wood - there the sheets will quickly be cut with laser marking and cut into professional equipment. The cost of sawing is calculated per linear meter.

The cross-layer arrangement in the plywood structure makes sheet material more resistant to warping compared to conventional wood panels. But these layers make it difficult to work with plywood - fastening parts end-to-end.

How to glue plywood sheets together

Let's consider proven ways to connect plywood blanks with your own hands.

Right angles - the main assembly rule

Homemade mounting brackets will help to set right angles.

The use of mounting brackets for connecting plywood parts.

Do-it-yourself from pieces of chipboard several different-sized sets of these simple fixtures and use them when assembling large and small products.

Details of the mounting bracket: 1 - corner; 2 - long bar; 3 - short strap.

Saw diagonally a square blank with dimensions of 290x290 mm.

Production of mounting brackets for connecting plywood parts.

Mark the cutouts for the clamps on the corners and cut out the excess material.

Prepare the side planks and make countersunk holes in them.

Fasten the corner to the workbench by placing pads of suitable thickness under it. Tighten the screws while drilling pilot holes.

Cut a right angle at the junction of the planks so that when assembling it does not interfere with the tight fit of the parts.

Ready-made mounting bracket for joining plywood parts.

You can also make a mounting bracket with your own hands from thick plywood. Side bars are not needed here, the strength of the material is enough to fix it with clamps directly to the end of the device.

Drawing of a plywood mounting bracket.

Four ways to fasten plywood parts

Various methods of joining plywood parts at a right angle differ in the complexity of manufacturing and in the reliability of the resulting joint.

Just end to end

Plywood sheets are easiest to fasten end-to-end with glue and screws. The strength of such a connection is sufficient for many furniture blocks, especially if the structure is reinforced with facade strapping or pressed against neighboring modules.

Fastening plywood parts end-to-end.

Groove according to the width of the part

Reliable and easy to manufacture, the connecting unit firmly fixes the parts thanks to three glued planes. Plywood products, fastened with high-quality fitted grooves, serve for decades.

Fastening plywood parts in a groove along the width.

To make a groove recess, a circular saw or milling machine on wood. In the corners, such a connection should be strengthened wooden frame or self-tapping screws.

Tongue and groove

A strong butt joint consisting of a groove in a vertical panel and a tongue in a horizontal plywood sheet. Ideal for corners, and maximum strength is achieved by placing the comb on the bottom of the shelf.

Fastening plywood parts "comb and groove".

Forming a ridge and cutting a groove is best done with a manual milling cutter.

Two grooves and a rail

The connection of plywood parts with a rail inserted into the grooves will best solution for fastening sheets of non-standard and uneven thickness.

Fastening plywood parts according to the “two grooves and a rail” scheme.

To ensure that the workpieces are firmly fastened, glue both grooves with glue.

How to drill pilot holes for screws

Learn how to prevent plywood from cracking by making proper holes for fasteners. Traditional screws with a tapered shank require drilling a mounting recess for the smooth part and a guide channel for the threaded part, plus you still need to bury the head. Perform these operations in one pass with a combination drill with a tapered tip and an adjustable countersink.

Drilling pattern for traditional screws.

Advice. Screw brass screws into the threads made in the pilot hole with a steel screw of the same size.

Modern screws have a straight shank and a thinner top than the thread, so they don't need a mounting recess. It is convenient to drill pilot holes with the same combined equipment, but with conventional drill selected for each screw caliber.

The scheme of drilling holes for modern screws.

Self-tapping screws with a drilling tip and countersinking ribs on the head, which make it possible to do without pre-drilling in soft wood, often split when twisted along plywood layers. Don't risk and waste time replacing a cracked workpiece - make holes even for screws with a drill bit at least half deep and especially near the edges and ends.

Advice. Calculate the tightening force by selecting the appropriate screwdriver mode. It is better to leave the hat a little sticking out above the surface and tighten it with a screwdriver.

It is not necessary to determine the size of the pilot hole with an accuracy of fractions of a millimeter - this can be done “by eye”.

The diameter is suitable if the attached drill covers the body of the screw and not the thread.

When making grooves for the caps near the edge of the plywood sheet, stick masking tape on the drilling site so as not to destroy the top veneer.

When drilling pilot holes, fix the parts, preventing the movement of the workpieces and, as a result, the breakage of the drill.

Any fastening of plywood parts will be accurate and reliable only if the workpieces are precisely fitted. Make strictly perpendicular cuts of blanks. Always start by making a groove, and then adjust the comb under it.

We work with plywood correctly

Home Instructions Repair and interior decoration Using tools Working with plywood correctly

We work with plywood correctly

Plywood can be processed in a variety of ways, both with standard hand and power woodworking tools. However, it should be noted that the adhesive in the plywood board causes rapid wear. cutting tools therefore it is recommended to use carbide tools. Plywood can also be cut with modern systems cutting laser beams And hydraulic systems at a pressure of 3500 bar.

Sawing

Best result sawing is obtained by using a tape or circular saw. To get a clean cut, sawing must be done correctly. First, sawing is done across the direction of the fibers of the front side, then along. This method avoids splitting corners. On the best, front side of plywood, sawing is done manually or band saw, on the reverse side - disk or contour. When sawing with a circular saw, a high speed and a low feed rate are recommended. The penetration limit of the saw blade teeth should be small.

drilling

Holes with smooth edges are obtained if the drill is sharp enough and equipped with a front cutter. Drilling should start from the front side. Splitting on the back of the board can be avoided by using a backing sheet.

Use of nails

For wall, ceiling and floor panels, threaded nails or special screws are best suited, preferably with a hidden or depressed head. For hidden nailing, ordinary wire nails are also suitable. Acid-resistant nails are recommended for nailing exterior cladding panels as they provide the best rust protection on the surface of the panel.

The length of the nails should be 2.5-3 panel thicknesses. Suitable spacing between nails for wall and ceiling panels is 10-20 cm along the edges, 20-30 cm in the middle, depending on the load and type of nails. In floor panels, the spacing should be 20-30 cm along the edges and 40-50 cm in the middle. Due to the structure of the plywood board being strips of cross-grain veneer, nails can be driven close to the edge. A suitable distance to the edge of the panel is 12-15 mm.

In load-bearing structures, important role for their integrity plays the strength and fixation of nails. Nails must be hammered in in the correct order, they must be long, with large hats. You can use screws. As noted above, the fixation of the structure can also be improved by using adhesive at the joints.

Screw connections

In many applications, plywood panels are fastened with screws. In finishing, in the manufacture of cabinet furniture, exhibition stands and shipbuilding, screws are preferred. Auxiliary holes can be pre-drilled, with the hole in the panel matching the diameter of the screw and the smaller hole in the frame; the diameter of the latter will be half of the previous one. The screw head must not penetrate into the face veneer. If domed nails are used, washers must be used. When attaching sheathing plywood to metal structural components, special screws can be used to fasten the plywood board from the back without damaging the front side.

Underfloor panels for cargo containers and trailers are usually attached to the metal chassis with self-tapping threaded screws. For example, 27 mm thick plywood boards can be fastened with M6x40 mm screws. The screw first penetrates the plywood board and then cuts a thread in the metal. This method is fast enough.

Thin plywood panels for transport engineering are also easily fastened to a metal structure using the aforementioned self-tapping screws. Plywood boards are easily fastened with bolts. Bolt hole should be 2mm larger diameter the bolt itself. There should be washers and nuts under the bolt heads to protect the panel surface. To avoid damaging the wood under the bolt, do not overtighten the bolt. Where plywood is used outdoors, an overtightened bolt may press into the surface of the board, causing it to swell with moisture. This will cause cracks in the plywood surface around the bolt.

Locks, hinges, shelves, etc.

3 ways to connect plywood parts

can be easily and securely attached to the plywood surface from either side or edge. The most durable is fastening with clamping fixtures. If it is necessary to place screws at the edges of the panels, the holes for them must be pre-drilled.

Installation

Plywood can be attached to the structure with glue, nails, staples, screws, rivets or bolts. When choosing a mounting method, it is important to take into account the operating conditions, the required strength and appearance. Before installation, the plywood board must be prepared in terms of end-use conditions, precautions must be taken to prevent possible expansion or contraction of the board due to exposure to moisture or temperature changes. A clearance at the joints of 2 mm is considered necessary. An elastic filler can be used, for example, between the edge of the panel and the steel frame of the structure. In heated constructions, the plywood board must be adequately ventilated.

Connection types

Joints and joints are important components of plywood structures. There are many types of joining plywood boards: tongue and groove, and others. When performed correctly, they provide structural integrity for walls, floors, and supporting members. The ends of a plywood board are usually the most sensitive part, so Special attention should be given to the processing of joints, especially if the plywood is intended for outdoor use.

In walls and ceilings, butt joints, open, tongue-and-groove, seam and strip joints are recommended. In outdoor applications, various connections stripes provide the best protection against external influences. Vertical and horizontal profiles made of aluminum effectively protect the edges of the plywood board. Rust resistance makes them suitable material for facades. However, if for architectural reasons an open joint is preferred in an outdoor application, the edges must be properly finished. Approximately 2 mm/m must be saved for panel expansion. In butt joints, this distance should be 3-6 mm. Tongue and groove joints are commonly used for floors and panels that go under roofs. It effectively prevents panel lifting and damage. roofing materials, capable of withstanding greater loads than a conventional butt joint. The panel is fastened with hidden nailing.

The best load-bearing capacity is achieved by using a stepped profile or similar special profile with flanges supporting the edges of adjacent panels. Such profiles are used, for example, in the construction of the floors of cargo containers or trailers.

Gluing

Unfaced plywood is usually glued with any wood glue. The choice of adhesive depends on the method of operation, the moisture content of the end-use process and the strength required. Common types of glue: PVA, phenol, epoxy resin, polyurethane, etc. PVA glue is suitable for indoor use. This adhesive is colorless and has good bonding strength. Phenol and epoxy adhesive have high bonding strength, able to withstand adverse environmental conditions. When bonding plywood to metal, an epoxy-type adhesive is recommended. Contact adhesives are commonly used for bonding large surfaces and for faced plywood intended for indoor use.

Not recommended for sticking laminated plywood. Film-coated plywood is not capable of long-term bonding. If film-coated plywood is attached with glue, the glued surface must first be cleaned to a layer of wood, for example, using sanding paper. It is desirable that the glue was epoxy. The surface to be bonded must be dry and clean.

The adhesive must be applied evenly to both surfaces to be bonded with a roller or brush. The desired pressure force is achieved with clamps, screws or nails. A suitable spacing between nails is 1 nail per 40 cm2. Any excess adhesive should be removed before it cures. Always read the adhesive manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Grinding

The surface of the plywood is usually sanded with relatively coarse abrasive paper (#80-100) perpendicular to the grain of the wood. If exceptionally smooth processing is required, for example for high-quality varnishing, sanding with fine-grained paper in the longitudinal direction of the wood grain is recommended.

Surface finish

polished, Smooth surface plywood is an excellent basis for subsequent finishing. Plywood can be laminated, laminated, painted, impregnated with special paint or mortar, etc. When choosing a paint or primer, it is important to consider the cracking tendency of the veneer. The surface can also be covered with laminate or fine wood veneer. It is possible to use a thin film. Plywood can also be covered with wallpaper. If plywood boards were stored under conditions high humidity before finishing, they must be dried to a normal moisture content. The surface should be thoroughly cleaned of dust resulting from previous processing. This procedure must be repeated before each stage of finishing. Depending on the required quality, 1-2 coats are applied.

Edge processing

To level the edges of the slab after sawing, they can be slightly trimmed. The best result is achieved if you cut in the direction from the corners to the middle, thereby avoiding splitting at the corners. Panel edges can also be sanded. The ends are painted 2-3 times with acrylic paint with special additives.

Primer

Wood is a natural material that expands and contracts depending on the complex effects of temperature and humidity. environment(despite the transverse layers of veneer inside the board). Cracks are observed on the inside of the face veneer, which expand and contract under the influence of moisture changes. For these reasons, a preliminary primer is necessary for subsequent painting. Elastic paints are used, and the correct combination of paints is important.

Painting paper base completely prevents the formation of cracks in the paint layer due to humidity In conditions of high humidity and outdoor use, plywood boards must also be painted on the reverse side. Under such conditions, end-face finishing is important and must be carried out especially carefully and several times. Plywood intended for outdoor use must be painted with special paints.

Painting

The application of paint gives the plywood a natural texture pattern. The surface of the slab can also be completely painted, without revealing the grain of the wood. The paint is applied with a brush or spray. Colored plywood is acceptable for both indoor and outdoor exterior finish. But before the final painting, the surface must be treated with a special solution to prevent the formation of blue and fungus, since the biological stability of transparent paints is limited due to the minimum content of the binder.

Varnishing

birch plywood with lacquered surface pleasing to the eye and easy to keep clean. Before varnishing, the surface of the panel must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Dust generated during sanding must be carefully removed and the surface covered with diluted varnish.

How to connect plywood?

What are the methods of joining plywood?

Wow question! This, dear friend, is not a complicated matter on the one hand, but on the other hand, depending on where this connection is established! If there are no special loads, then you can simply put the ends on glue and fix the sheets with screws with screws.

How to work with plywood

If the connection is where there will be loads, then there are a lot of options and they are very different plywood, like solid wood, are connected almost the same:

a) connections by ties, work in compression - with dowels and blocks; b) connections by bonds, work on bending - dowels-bolts, nails, screws, pins; c) connections by ties, work in tension - with bolts, screws, clamps; d) connections by shear bonds - adhesive seams.

Here are some types of connections most common in the construction of a house, as well as in the construction of motor plywood boats.

Plywood gluing technologies

The main technologies for gluing plywood are shown in the picture below:

These are not the only methods, you can come up with your own, but the figure shows the main ones, in addition to which you can also do this:

And you can make some "keys" with cloves:

and more detailed diagram:

From the above, I think everyone can choose the method that is most suitable for a particular situation.

In general, it all depends on what goals you are pursuing.

Plywood gluing algorithm

The planes that are planned to be glued must first be carefully treated with sandpaper or emery, so we will remove all irregularities for better gluing. Then you need to remove dust from the surface and, to ensure maximum adhesion, degrease it.

After this little preparatory phase you can apply glue on both planes (it is better to use special glue, and glues are very different, and dilute it according to the instructions). After application, the glue must be allowed to stand for some time, and then connect the two parts, pressing tightly against each other. It would be better to fix the pieces with clamps.

The drying process, as a rule, will take about a day, but it is often recommended that after removing the clamps, do not subject the plywood to any pressure for about a day.

The procedure for gluing plywood on your own is as follows:

  • Processing of joints and the bordering surface of the material in order to degrease and remove dust and dirt residues.
  • If you want to glue laminated sheets, then the next step is to sand the material in order to get rid of the slippery laminated surface over the entire joint area. Or make it rougher.
  • Before gluing, take care of the quality drying of the sheets.
  • Apply glue to the adhesive surface with a roller for greater uniformity of the product.
  • Apply special clamps to ensure a fixed and tight fit of the parts to be glued. Attention! When gluing big parts additional connection with self-tapping screws and/or nails is required.
  • Remove excess adhesive with a rag or knife.
  • After the adhesive has completely dried, remove the clamps.

Ready to get down to business?

Then cook the following materials and tools:

  • Nails and/or screws;
  • Sander with appropriate attachment or sanding paper;
  • clamps;
  • Hammer;
  • Rags;
  • Glue;
  • roller.

What glue to use?

To correctly answer this question, first decide how large pieces of plywood you want to connect and how to use after gluing.

For gluing construction (rough) plywood, which does not have a front layer, any adhesive composition. The main thing when connecting is to clean and degrease the glued surfaces of the sheets as efficiently as possible.

When gluing large sheets to each other, after applying the adhesive, the workpieces are pressed with temporary clamps.

If, when gluing plywood, it is important not to disturb the texture and color of the material, but to ensure a reliable connection, we recommend using PVA if the blanks will be used indoors in the future. If we are talking about outdoor use, then epoxy or phenol would be ideal.

To ensure a strong and reliable connection of workpieces, it is important not only to choose the right glue, but also to use it correctly. Because violation of the technical regulations is fraught with "non-operation" of all the qualities of the adhesive composition.

  • Easy to use, suitable for household use;
  • Provides reliable fastening;
  • Resistant to moisture;
  • Inert to the effects of fungus and mold;
  • Non-violating color and composition.

Which glue is better: based on liquid glass or polyurethane?

The universal composition of the adhesive, which is based on liquid glass guarantees high moisture resistance adhesive bond, as well as inertness to sudden temperature changes. Such a composition is ideal for gluing plywood to the floor, fiberboard or chipboard, as well as tile or glass.

Polyurethane-based glue is moisture resistant, does not collapse under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, provides excellent sound insulation, and dries quickly. Two-component polyurethane adhesive suitable for bonding laminated or varnished surfaces.

Choose glue by brand of plywood

Here it is important to proceed from the category of joint strength that must be obtained, as well as air humidity during the further operation of the structure.

If the product after gluing will be in a well-dry and ventilated area, then synthetic glue, PVA or protein-based glue is perfect.

For plywood products that are going to be used both inside and outside, use synthetic glue.

Moisture-resistant plywood is better connected by compounds based on carbamide resin.

How to properly connect plywood parts with your own hands

The cross-layering of the plywood structure makes the sheet material more resistant to buckling than conventional wood panels. But these layers make it difficult to work with plywood - fastening parts end-to-end. Let's consider proven ways to connect plywood blanks with your own hands.

Right angles - the main assembly rule

Homemade mounting brackets will help to set right angles.

The use of mounting brackets for connecting plywood parts.

Make with your own hands from pieces of chipboard several sets of these simple devices of different sizes and use them when assembling large and small products.

Details of the mounting bracket: 1 - corner; 2 - long bar; 3 - short strap.

Saw diagonally a square blank with dimensions of 290x290 mm.

Production of mounting brackets for connecting plywood parts.

Mark the cutouts for the clamps on the corners and cut out the excess material.

Prepare the side planks and make countersunk holes in them.

Fasten the corner to the workbench by placing pads of suitable thickness under it. Tighten the screws while drilling pilot holes.

Cut a right angle at the junction of the planks so that when assembling it does not interfere with the tight fit of the parts.

Ready-made mounting bracket for joining plywood parts.

You can also make a mounting bracket with your own hands from thick plywood. Side bars are not needed here, the strength of the material is enough to fix it with clamps directly to the end of the device.

Drawing of a plywood mounting bracket.

Four ways to fasten plywood parts

Various methods of joining plywood parts at a right angle differ in the complexity of manufacturing and in the reliability of the resulting joint.

Just end to end

Plywood sheets are easiest to fasten end-to-end with glue and screws. The strength of such a connection is sufficient for many furniture blocks, especially if the structure is reinforced with facade strapping or pressed against neighboring modules.

Fastening plywood parts end-to-end.

Groove according to the width of the part

Reliable and easy to manufacture, the connecting unit firmly fixes the parts thanks to three glued planes.

How to glue plywood together: rules and methods of adhesive bonding

Plywood products, fastened with high-quality fitted grooves, serve for decades.

Fastening plywood parts in a groove along the width.

To make a groove recess, a circular saw or a wood milling machine is used. In the corners, such a connection should be reinforced with a wooden frame or self-tapping screws.

Tongue and groove

A strong butt joint consisting of a groove in a vertical panel and a tongue in a horizontal plywood sheet. Ideal for corners, and maximum strength is achieved by placing the comb on the bottom of the shelf.

Fastening plywood parts "comb and groove".

Forming a ridge and cutting a groove is best done with a manual milling cutter.

Two grooves and a rail

The connection of plywood parts with a rail inserted into the grooves will be the best solution for fastening sheets of non-standard and uneven thickness.

Fastening plywood parts according to the “two grooves and a rail” scheme.

To ensure that the workpieces are firmly fastened, glue both grooves with glue.

How to drill pilot holes for screws

Learn how to prevent plywood from cracking by making proper holes for fasteners. Traditional screws with a tapered shank require drilling a mounting recess for the smooth part and a guide channel for the threaded part, plus you still need to bury the head. Perform these operations in one pass with a combination drill with a tapered tip and an adjustable countersink.

Drilling pattern for traditional screws.

Advice.Screw brass screws into the threads made in the pilot hole with a steel screw of the same size.

Modern screws have a straight shank and a thinner top than the thread, so they don't need a mounting recess. It is convenient to drill pilot holes with the same combined equipment, but with a conventional drill, selected for each screw caliber.

The scheme of drilling holes for modern screws.

Self-tapping screws with a drilling tip and countersinking ribs on the head, which make it possible to do without pre-drilling in soft wood, often split when twisted along plywood layers. Don't risk and waste time replacing a cracked workpiece - make holes even for screws with a drill bit at least half deep and especially near the edges and ends.

Advice.Calculate the tightening force by selecting the appropriate screwdriver mode. It is better to leave the hat a little sticking out above the surface and tighten it with a screwdriver.

It is not necessary to determine the size of the pilot hole with an accuracy of fractions of a millimeter - this can be done “by eye”.

The diameter is suitable if the attached drill covers the body of the screw and not the thread.

When making grooves for the caps near the edge of the plywood sheet, stick masking tape on the drilling site so as not to destroy the top veneer.

When drilling pilot holes, fix the parts, preventing the movement of the workpieces and, as a result, the breakage of the drill.

Any fastening of plywood parts will be accurate and reliable only if the workpieces are precisely fitted. Make strictly perpendicular cuts of blanks. Always start by making a groove, and then adjust the comb under it.

It is very important that the floor in the apartment is warm and comfortable. Therefore, its installation begins with the laying of plywood, which will play the role of a base and will be able to ensure its stability and strength. This material, consisting of several layers of veneer made from coniferous wood, is predisposed to various types of fastening. It can be mounted with screws, nails or bolts.

How to glue plywood sheets together

But if you choose glue for this purpose, then the work will be much simpler and the result will be of high quality.

General issues

To the question of whether plywood can be glued, today there is a definite positive answer. Since developed different kinds glue, choosing the right one, you can glue plywood to any base. It will firmly connect with concrete, wood, as well as plastic and even metal. Bonding is a fairly easy manipulation that anyone with no prior skills can handle. Such a floor will be resistant to moisture and will not undergo aging. Also, this technology can be used in the arrangement of underfloor heating.

Dispersion adhesive

There are several types of different adhesives on the market today. In order to figure out which one is suitable in a particular case, you need to consider their characteristics.

When deciding which plywood adhesive to use, you can opt for an environmentally friendly, odorless and fumes-free dispersion adhesive. People call it PVA glue. It consists of a white suspension containing crushed polyvinyl acetate particles and water.

It qualitatively connects plywood with the base. But, despite all the above advantages, it also has a number of disadvantages. These include:

  • mandatory additional fastening with dowels and self-tapping screws;
  • curing for at least 1 week.

Before use, it is diluted with water or a special primer is added to it. For gluing 1 sq. m of plywood need a little more than one kilogram.

To the question of whether it can be used in children's institutions, offices, apartments - the answer is definitely positive.

alcohol glue

If you need to do the work quickly, then one-component glue is used for laying, which is also called alcohol. It is based on artificial resins and solvents, so it has a strong pungent odor that requires the use of a respirator during work and long-term ventilation of the room. Before applying it concrete screed must be primed. Additional bracing required. But at the same time, this glue has a number of advantages:

  • under normal conditions, it dries out after three days;
  • due to its consistency, it fills the cracks and does not leave voids, thereby compacting the rough base;
  • does not crack during operation, due to its high elasticity in the frozen form.

Has a higher cost square meter than dispersion. You need about one and a half kilograms.

Two-component adhesive

Laying plywood on a two-component adhesive will be quick and hassle-free. Having a higher cost than analogues, it has a number of advantages, including:

  • plywood does not need to be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws;

  • the glue hardens in just two days;
  • has the highest strength.

This adhesive for plywood flooring is sold as two separate components - a resin and a special hardener, which must be mixed in the correct proportions and immediately before use. It is recommended to work with the material using personal protective equipment.

Glue laying plywood technology

To provide proper styling and fixing the material on the screed from the solution, it is necessary to glue it. This ensures the coupling of two various surfaces, which guarantees good quality laying the preparatory floor layer (this process is shown in the video).

Installation should be carried out in the following sequence:

  1. An adhesive composition is applied to a previously prepared even surface, about 2 mm.
  2. Next, the wood adhesive material cut into squares, pre-numbered, is laid, each in its place. To eliminate air, you need to pass the roller over the squares, pressing them.
  3. We carry out the final fixing by placing self-tapping screws around the perimeter of each tile, which should be much longer than the thickness of the sheet (see photo).

After surface treatment grinder we glue the tiles on plywood, having previously cleaned it of debris, primed it, smeared it with adhesive and prepared the tiles directly for laying. We glue the parquet in the same way.

What are the methods of joining plywood?

Wow question! This, dear friend, is not a complicated matter on the one hand, but on the other hand, depending on where this connection is established! If there are no special loads, then you can simply put the ends on glue and fix the sheets with screws with screws. If the connection is where there will be loads, then there are a lot of options and they are very different plywood, like solid wood, are connected almost the same:

a) connections by ties, work in compression - with dowels and blocks; b) connections by bonds, work on bending - dowels-bolts, nails, screws, pins; c) connections by ties, work in tension - with bolts, screws, clamps; d) connections by shear bonds - adhesive seams.

Here are some types of connections most common in the construction of a house, as well as in the construction of motor plywood boats.

Plywood gluing technologies

The main technologies for gluing plywood are shown in the picture below:

These are not the only methods, you can come up with your own, but the figure shows the main ones, in addition to which you can also do this:

And you can make some "keys" with cloves:

and more detailed diagram:

From the above, I think everyone can choose the method that is most suitable for a particular situation.

In general, it all depends on what goals you are pursuing.

Plywood gluing algorithm

The planes that are planned to be glued must first be carefully treated with sandpaper or emery, so we will remove all irregularities for better gluing. Then you need to remove dust from the surface and, to ensure maximum adhesion, degrease it.

After this small preparatory stage, you can apply glue on both planes (it is better to use special glue, and glues are very different, and dilute it according to the instructions). After application, the glue must be allowed to stand for some time, and then connect the two parts, pressing tightly against each other. It would be better to fix the pieces with clamps.

The drying process, as a rule, will take about a day, but it is often recommended that after removing the clamps, do not subject the plywood to any pressure for about a day.

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Spike connection of parts. How to make a high-quality tenon joint in wooden furniture yourself.

Chapter: Country construction and landscaping

When making homemade wooden furniture the master is faced with the need to make high-quality spiked joints.

Spike connection of parts is the highest quality and most reliable. And although in Lately more and more furniture is made and assembled using metal corners, the spike does not give up its position. Not many people can just make high-quality spikes. If a person can make them, we can say that he has already become a carpenter.

In the industry, spikes are said to be "cut" on special precision equipment. At home, it is, of course, not available. Therefore, many craftsmen who make simple garden and country furniture sacrifice quality in favor of simplicity. Let me also remind you that in the vast majority of cases, spikes are cut only along the wood fibers. If the spike is made narrow and across the fibers, it will definitely chip. So that it does not chip, the width of the spike must be at least 15-20 of the thickness of the part. This requirement does not apply to plywood. In plywood, you can cut spikes of any width, but it is desirable that the outer layers be oriented along the spike in the same way.

Meanwhile, for a long time there has been a fairly simple method that allows you to quickly and efficiently make spiked joints. wooden parts even for a beginner carpenter. This method was proposed by Yu.A. Egorov. The essence of the method is quite simple and understandable.

Let's say we need to make a spike connection of two parts. For convenience in the drawings, I painted them in different colors.

Prerequisite for quality workmanship spike connection is the fact that each saw has a certain cutting width. It is determined by the size of the tooth setting. It can be measured by making several cuts in a piece of wood. And you can directly use the saw to take measurements in the manufacture of spikes.

On each part we apply a risk to the depth of cut, it is equal to the thickness of the parts. If the parts are the same in thickness, then the depth of cut in each part will be the same. If the parts have different thicknesses, then the depths of the cuts will be different. In a thin part, the cuts are deeper (equal to the thickness of a thick part), in a thick part - smaller.

The parts are folded with faces to each other so that the ends coincide, and relative to each other along the side faces they are shifted by the width of the saw cut, with which we will make spikes. (Not the thickness of the saw blade, but the width of the cut!). We fix the parts in a vice or workbench and make arbitrary cuts evenly over the entire width of the parts. If the parts are of different thickness, we make cuts to a depth equal to the thickness of the thin part. (In a thin detail, then we finish it separately). We try to make cuts as much as possible along the axis of the part, avoiding the taper of the spikes.

After this, we release the parts and again shift them relative to each other by the width of the cut, but only in the other direction. By the way, if we now make a shift a little less than the width of the cut, then we will subsequently get a tight tenon joint, which is important for furniture. And if we shift the parts a little more than the width of the cut, we get a free spike connection. The spikes of the parts will freely fit into the grooves of the other part. This circumstance is important in the manufacture of detachable connections (on a stud) or swivel connections.

Ignoring the old cuts, we make new ones, approximately in the middle of the existing spikes. At the same time, we also observe the depth of the cuts and especially carefully their longitudinal.

After that, we release the parts, bring the depth of cuts to the required value (for a thin part, if the parts are of different thicknesses). With a chisel, carefully remove the extra spikes (look carefully and do not remove the ones you need!), We clean the ends in the grooves.

After that, the parts can be joined.

Permanent connections are usually made with glue.

We work with plywood correctly

For wooden parts, wood glue or PVA glue is perfect. They will maintain the reliability of the connection even if the parts get wet or the moisture content of the wood increases. If the parts will be operated in a dry room, epoxy resins (adhesives) can also be used.

After the glue has hardened, the junction is cleaned, polished and processed in the same way as the entire product.

If the connection is planned to be detachable or rotatable (for example, you are making blinds or an accordion door from boards or shields), then before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to round the ends of the spikes so that their corners do not rest against the grooves when turning. In fixed, but detachable connections, this is, of course, not necessary.

Having connected the parts, all the spikes are simultaneously drilled with a long thin drill. Its diameter should be equal to the diameter of the stud (nail) that you will use as an axis or fastener.

Using this method of making a spike connection, you can quickly, easily and most importantly, produce spikes on the details of your garden furniture with high quality.

Konstantin Timoshenko.

3 ways to connect plywood parts


Plywood is popular building material, possessing such qualities as environmental friendliness and plasticity. Furniture and decorative items are made from its sheets, it is used in interior decoration. When creating structures, both gluing plywood and fastening the material with bolts or nails are used.

How to connect plywood?

When choosing a method for fastening plywood products, one should take into account the characteristics of the material and the method of its operation.

Plywood pieces can be bolted, nailed or glued together.

Lineups

For gluing plywood parts, you can use different types glue. For interior work, PVA-composition is used, which is an aqueous emulsion of polyvinyl acetate. Protein variants of adhesives are created on the basis of products of animal origin. These are casein, albumin, albumin-casein types of glue. For the manufacture of synthetic adhesives, urea-formaldehyde and phenol-formaldehyde artificial resins are used. The urea-formaldehyde base creates a colorless seam, phenol-formaldehyde resins are water resistant.

The brand of glue for plywood must be selected taking into account the required strength, as well as the degree of humidity of the room in which the structure will be operated:

The choice of adhesives depends on the brand of plywood.

  1. Products that are installed in ventilated rooms can be joined using PVA, protein or synthetic glue.
  2. In the manufacture country furniture, which is planned to be transferred from the room to the air, synthetic compounds are used to connect the parts.

Moisture resistant plywood (FK brand) for interior spaces glued together with compounds based on carbamide resins. Sheets of material of increased moisture resistance (FSF grade) and bakelized plywood (FB) are combined with compounds containing phenol-formaldehyde resins. If unlined sheets of material are used, then plywood can be glued with any type of glue. The surface of laminated sheets with a film coating must be cleaned to a wood layer before joining. Plywood should be sanded in a direction perpendicular to the wood texture.

Operating Instructions

Before gluing plywood, you need to prepare the following tools:

Before gluing, the plywood parts are sanded.

  • foam roller;
  • clamps;
  • hammer.

Materials:

  • blanks;
  • sanding paper;
  • nails.

Glue plywood, working in this order:

  1. The surface of plywood sheets is cleaned of dust and dirt is washed off from it. With a laminated material, a layer of laminate is removed using sanding paper.
  2. Leaves are thoroughly dried.
  3. Use a roller to distribute the adhesive in an even layer on the surface to be glued.
  4. With the help of clamps, the plywood parts are pressed tightly against one another. Excess glue that has come out, carefully so that they do not fall on the front side of the product, is removed with a knife and rags.
  5. Details large sizes if necessary, they are additionally connected with nails, evenly distributing them over the surface in increments of 40-50 cm.
  6. After the adhesive mass has dried, the clamps are carefully removed.

If you want to glue plywood to a metal part, then the use of epoxy glue is recommended. Tools required:

Materials:

Types of gluing plywood.

  • plywood and metal parts;
  • epoxy adhesive.

They work in the following order:

  1. The blanks are sanded, then the parts are freed from sawdust and dust.
  2. On clean and dry surfaces with a brush, evenly apply the epoxy mass.
  3. The blanks are combined and fixed with clamps, excess glue is removed.
  4. After the seam dries, the parts are released from the clamps. If a plywood sheet is delaminated, then its layers can be glued, laying them with paper.

If it is required to glue plywood, then a channel (U-shaped profile) can be used as a clamp.

Threaded holes are made in its upper and lower parts and the workpieces to be glued are fixed point-blank with bolts through the gasket. The bolt pitch must correspond to 10 workpiece thicknesses. Spacers between bolts and plywood should be 3 times the thickness of the pieces. The edges of the channels are connected with bolts through the bosses. Pressing is done evenly, with a medium tightening, so that enough glue remains in the seam.

//moyafanera.ru/youtu.be/LNAXQmNeaxE

Plywood can be used in interior decoration, to create objects for home or country interior. To work, you need to know how to connect plywood parts. Before gluing plywood, you should carefully study the instructions, select the adhesive composition, and prepare everything you need to work with the material. With a well-made seam, self-made products will look attractive and retain strength for a long time.

We work with plywood correctly

home — Instructions — Repair and interior decoration — Using tools — Working with plywood correctly

We work with plywood correctly

Plywood can be processed in a variety of ways, both with standard hand and power woodworking tools. However, it should be noted that the adhesive in the plywood board causes rapid wear of the cutting tools, so it is recommended to use tungsten carbide tools. Plywood can also be cut with modern laser beam cutting systems and hydraulic systems at a pressure of 3500 bar.

Sawing

The best sawing result is obtained when using a band saw or a circular saw. To get a clean cut, sawing must be done correctly. First, sawing is done across the direction of the fibers of the front side, then along. This method avoids splitting corners. On the best, front side of plywood, sawing is done with a hand or band saw, on the reverse side - with a circular or contour saw. When sawing with a circular saw, a high speed and a low feed rate are recommended. The penetration limit of the saw blade teeth should be small.

drilling

Holes with smooth edges are obtained if the drill is sharp enough and equipped with a front cutter. Drilling should start from the front side. Splitting on the back of the board can be avoided by using a backing sheet.

Use of nails

For wall, ceiling and floor panels, threaded nails or special screws are best suited, preferably with a hidden or depressed head. For hidden nailing, ordinary wire nails are also suitable. Acid-resistant nails are recommended for nailing exterior cladding panels as they provide the best rust protection on the surface of the panel.

The length of the nails should be 2.5-3 panel thicknesses. Suitable spacing between nails for wall and ceiling panels is 10-20 cm along the edges, 20-30 cm in the middle, depending on the load and type of nails. In floor panels, the spacing should be 20-30 cm along the edges and 40-50 cm in the middle. Due to the structure of the plywood board being strips of cross-grain veneer, nails can be driven close to the edge. A suitable distance to the edge of the panel is 12-15 mm.

In load-bearing structures, strength and nail retention play an important role in their integrity. Nails must be hammered in in the correct order, they must be long, with large hats. You can use screws. As noted above, the fixation of the structure can also be improved by using adhesive at the joints.

Screw connections

In many applications, plywood panels are fastened with screws. In finishing, in the manufacture of cabinet furniture, exhibition stands and shipbuilding, screws are preferred. Auxiliary holes can be pre-drilled, with the hole in the panel matching the diameter of the screw and the smaller hole in the frame; the diameter of the latter will be half of the previous one. The screw head must not penetrate into the face veneer. If domed nails are used, washers must be used. When attaching sheathing plywood to metal structural components, special screws can be used to fasten the plywood board from the back without damaging the front side.

Underfloor panels for cargo containers and trailers are usually attached to the metal chassis with self-tapping threaded screws. For example, 27 mm thick plywood boards can be fastened with M6x40 mm screws. The screw first penetrates the plywood board and then cuts a thread in the metal. This method is fast enough.

Thin plywood panels for transport engineering are also easily fastened to a metal structure using the aforementioned self-tapping screws. Plywood boards are easily fastened with bolts. The hole for the bolt should be 2 mm larger than the diameter of the bolt itself. There should be washers and nuts under the bolt heads to protect the panel surface. To avoid damaging the wood under the bolt, do not overtighten the bolt. Where plywood is used outdoors, an overtightened bolt may press into the surface of the board, causing it to swell with moisture. This will cause cracks in the plywood surface around the bolt.

Locks, hinges, shelves, etc. can be easily and securely attached to the plywood surface from either side or edge. The most durable is the fastening with clamping devices. If it is necessary to place screws at the edges of the panels, the holes for them must be pre-drilled.

Installation

Plywood can be attached to the structure with glue, nails, staples, screws, rivets or bolts. When choosing a mounting method, it is important to consider the operating conditions, the required strength and appearance. Before installation, the plywood board must be prepared in terms of end-use conditions, precautions must be taken to prevent possible expansion or contraction of the board due to exposure to moisture or temperature changes. A clearance at the joints of 2 mm is considered necessary. An elastic filler can be used, for example, between the edge of the panel and the steel frame of the structure. In heated constructions, the plywood board must be adequately ventilated.

Connection types

Joints and joints are important components of plywood structures. There are many types of joining plywood boards: tongue and groove, and others. When performed correctly, they provide structural integrity for walls, floors, and supporting members. The ends of a plywood board are usually the most sensitive part, so special attention must be paid to the processing of the joints, especially if the plywood is intended for outdoor use.

In walls and ceilings, butt joints, open, tongue-and-groove, seam and strip joints are recommended. In outdoor applications, various stripe connections provide the best protection against external influences. Vertical and horizontal profiles made of aluminum effectively protect the edges of the plywood board. Their resistance to rust makes them a suitable material for facades. However, if for architectural reasons an open joint is preferred in an outdoor application, the edges must be properly finished. Approximately 2 mm/m must be saved for panel expansion. In butt joints, this distance should be 3-6 mm. Tongue and groove joints are commonly used for floors and panels that go under roofs.

How to glue plywood together: rules and methods of adhesive bonding

It effectively prevents panels from lifting and damage to roofing materials, and is able to withstand greater loads than a conventional butt joint. The panel is fastened with hidden nailing.

The best load-bearing capacity is achieved by using a stepped profile or similar special profile with flanges supporting the edges of adjacent panels. Such profiles are used, for example, in the construction of the floors of cargo containers or trailers.

Gluing

Uncoated plywood is usually glued with any wood glue. The choice of adhesive depends on the method of operation, the moisture content of the end-use process and the strength required. Common types of glue: PVA, phenol, epoxy, polyurethane, etc. PVA glue is suitable for indoor use. This adhesive is colorless and has good bonding strength. Phenol and epoxy adhesive have high bonding strength, able to withstand adverse environmental conditions. When bonding plywood to metal, an epoxy-type adhesive is recommended. Contact adhesives are commonly used for bonding large surfaces and for faced plywood intended for indoor use.

It is not recommended to glue laminated plywood. Film-coated plywood is not capable of long-term bonding. If film-coated plywood is attached with adhesive, the surface to be bonded must first be sanded down to a layer of wood, for example with sanding paper. It is desirable that the glue was epoxy. The surface to be bonded must be dry and clean.

The adhesive must be applied evenly to both surfaces to be bonded with a roller or brush. The desired pressure force is achieved with clamps, screws or nails. A suitable spacing between nails is 1 nail per 40 cm2. Any excess adhesive should be removed before it cures. Always read the adhesive manufacturer's instructions carefully.

Grinding

The surface of the plywood is usually sanded with relatively coarse abrasive paper (#80-100) perpendicular to the grain of the wood. If exceptionally smooth processing is required, for example for high-quality varnishing, sanding with fine-grained paper in the longitudinal direction of the wood grain is recommended.

Surface finish

The sanded, even surface of plywood is an excellent basis for subsequent finishing. Plywood can be laminated, laminated, painted, impregnated with special paint or mortar, etc. When choosing a paint or primer, it is important to consider the cracking tendency of the veneer. The surface can also be covered with laminate or fine wood veneer. It is possible to use a thin film. Plywood can also be covered with wallpaper. If plywood boards have been stored in high humidity conditions, they must be dried to a normal moisture content before finishing. The surface should be thoroughly cleaned of dust resulting from previous processing. This procedure must be repeated before each stage of finishing. Depending on the required quality, 1-2 coats are applied.

Edge processing

To level the edges of the slab after sawing, they can be slightly trimmed. The best result is achieved if you cut in the direction from the corners to the middle, thereby avoiding splitting at the corners. Panel edges can also be sanded. The ends are painted 2-3 times with acrylic paint with special additives.

Primer

Wood is a natural material that expands and contracts depending on the complex effect of temperature and humidity of the environment (despite the transverse layers of veneer inside the board). Cracks are observed on the inside of the face veneer, which expand and contract under the influence of moisture changes. For these reasons, a preliminary primer is necessary for subsequent painting. Elastic paints are used, and the correct combination of paints is important.

The painting of the paper backing completely prevents the formation of cracks in the paint layer due to moisture. In conditions of high humidity and outdoor use, plywood boards must also be painted on the reverse side. Under such conditions, end-face finishing is important and must be carried out especially carefully and several times. Plywood intended for outdoor use must be painted with special paints.

Painting

The application of paint gives the plywood a natural texture pattern. The surface of the slab can also be completely painted, without revealing the grain of the wood. The paint is applied with a brush or spray. Colored plywood is acceptable for both interior and exterior decoration. But before the final painting, the surface must be treated with a special solution to prevent the formation of blue and fungus, since the biological stability of transparent paints is limited due to the minimum content of the binder.

Varnishing

The lacquered birch plywood is pleasing to the eye and easy to keep clean. Before varnishing, the surface of the panel must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. Dust generated during sanding must be carefully removed and the surface covered with diluted varnish.

S. Vetrov

Pioneer shipyard

File from Alexei Nesenenko's bookshelf
OCR: Nesenenko Alexey February 2004

The “preparation shop” also continued to work.

Here they made blanks of three parts outer skin. Since the length of the dinghy exceeded the dimensions of a standard sheet of plywood (most often 1.5X1.5 m), it became necessary to connect - join - the sheets. Zhores Ivanovich explained that the most reliable option for plywood butt jointing would be gluing "on the mustache" and showed how this operation can be performed simply and accurately.

- The strength in this case will depend on the length of the "bar" - the bevel of the edge at the junction. Usually it is 12 - 20 sheet thicknesses. We have a thickness of 6 mm. So, 80 mm will be enough.

The chief foreman examined both surfaces of the sheets to be joined, selected those with fewer knots for the outer side of the skin, and marked them. I laid one of the sheets on the workbench with the marked side up and drew a line parallel to the edge to be processed at a distance of 80 mm from the edge. The second sheet was placed on top of the first with the marked side down, aligning its processed edge with this line. Then, 80 mm from the edge, a line was drawn on it, limiting the strip of the "bar".

Now, having adjusted the planer to the thinnest shavings, Zhores Ivanovich began to plane both edges of the sheet at once "in one pass." A wooden plank, which he fastened with four nails to the workbench, kept the sheets from shifting and gave the planer the correct slope. It turned out one inclined plane 160 mm wide; all layers of plywood were indicated on it in the form of straight and parallel lines. When later the sheets were put on top of one another with joined edges, the joint turned out to be tight and even.

A wide board was placed under the joint, covering it with paper so that it would not stick to the plywood. Lubricating the surfaces to be joined with glue, Zhores Ivanovich put them together, and immediately hammered two small nails along the edges so that the sheets would not move relative to each other during pressing. A second board was laid on top, also laying paper between it and plywood. On this board, the guys began to stack different weights to provide the required pressure.

The blanks of both transoms were cut out of a sheet 12 mm thick, they were put on the outside in their places and outlined with a pencil along the contour of the frames. Zhores Ivanovich made of thin plywood a small template that helped already when filing the bow transom with a hacksaw to a clean size, simultaneously remove the bevels from its bottom and side edges. So when the transoms were put (with glue and screws) in place, it remained only to cleanly cut their edges flush with the surfaces of the frames.

The guys then proceeded to install the cladding.

We started from the side. The workpiece was placed on the set, secured with a pair of clamps to the fender in the bow and stern. From the side of the set, the outer edges of the fender, cheekbone stringer and transoms were outlined. In addition, the position of both edges of all top-timbers and the inner edges of the transom frames was drawn. This was necessary in order to know where to pre-drill holes for the screws and apply glue.

The workpiece was removed from the set and cut around the perimeter, leaving an allowance of 3-4 mm for the final gouging. Guided by the lines showing the position of the transverse set, we marked the double-row checkerboard seams and drilled small holes for the screws. Having smeared with glue the edges of the set adjacent to the skin and the corresponding strips on the sheet itself, it was again put in place, pressed against the set (going from the middle to the bow and stern) and secured with several nails to the frame and transoms.

“Now, guys,” said Zhores Ivanovich, “we need a thickness gauge. Install 8 mm on it and draw a line of the first row of nails along the upper and lower edges of the sheet. We outline the line of the second row at a distance from the edge equal to 17 mm. So, being staggered, the fasteners will more evenly press the sheet against the rails of the set. However, we have already talked about this. And do not forget: we must have time to completely fix the board to the set until the glue gets up!

Further work went very quickly. One of the guys went with a drill and drilled holes - through 75 mm alternately in each row. His partner inserted 2.5X20 nails into these holes and, holding the set rail on the inside with a steel blank, hammered them into place with a hammer. Immediately, with the help of a punch, the nail heads were sunk about 0.5 mm into the wood and, at the same time, the glue protruding from under the plywood along the cheekbone and the fender was removed with a cloth (otherwise, when the glue hardens, the tool will quickly become dull during subsequent gouging).

Nails were hammered along the longitudinal set, moving from the frame to the bow and stern, alternately along the cheekbone and fender. If you start from the transoms, then a bulge may form in the middle of the boat - the skin will not pull up to the set. On the "Optimist" there is not enough transverse set, so drilling the holes and installing the screws did not take much time. On the same day, they managed to put the second side, and the installation of the bottom was taken up the next morning, giving the glue time to gain strength.

We started by removing the bevel from the bottom edge of the zygomatic stringer along with the lower edge of the sides.

- A little subtlety, - said Zhores Ivanovich, taking a planer in his hands, - you need to plan, holding the planer at an angle to the cheekbone and so that the blade begins to cut the plywood sheathing first, as if pressing it to the stringer. If you do the opposite, you can easily chip off the outer layer of plywood.


When the sheet was laid on the hull and the bottom set began to be outlined, at the same time the risks of the beginning and end of the centerboard well were taken out onto plywood. This made it possible in a convenient position, when the sheet is removed, to mark and cut a slot for the passage of the centerboard. The lines for installing nails along the cheekbone were marked out using the same simple raimus as when mounting the sides. When the nails were driven in, one of the guys had to climb inside the boat and support the rails of the longitudinal set under the place where the next nail was driven in with a massive blank.

When the edges of the bottom sheet were cut - now flush with the surface of the sides and transoms, Zhores Ivanovich said that the boat could be removed from the slipway. They quickly pulled out the nails with which the racks - toptimbers were attached to the slipway, removed the braces, and now the hull of the future "Optimist", unanimously picked up by all participants in its construction, was turned over and placed on an even keel - the way it is supposed to sail. Some of the guys had already tried to get into the boat, but the voice of Zhores Ivanovich stopped him:

— Eh, no! Let's do everything like in a real shipyard! To begin with, we will put the boat on a keel block, otherwise we will spoil the bottom.

Zhores Ivanovich sketched out a sketch of a square box without a bottom, which the guys immediately knocked together from four boards, reinforcing the corners with pieces of plywood.

How to glue plywood sheets together

Pieces of felt were nailed along the upper edges of the transverse supports of the keel block so that the bottom would not rub against the tree. Four blocks nailed to the ends of the supports securely fixed the hull of the boat from shifting to the side.