Proper insulation of the attic from the inside allows you to use the room all year round In addition, this helps to significantly save on heating and energy costs for heating the building as a whole.

Options for attic insulation depend on the stage of construction of the house. In the article we will figure out how to properly perform thermal insulation, the best way to insulate the premises, and offer step-by-step instructions on how to insulate an attic from the inside with your own hands.

How to insulate an attic floor

How to properly insulate a reinforced concrete floor

To insulate the floor, first we clean the slab of debris and dust, and seal the cracks and uneven areas with cement-sand mortar. Next, we waterproof the slab using the coating method. bitumen mastic on 2 layers, or lay roofing felt, the joints should overlap and hermetically glued blowtorch– this will protect the insulation from condensation.

We lay insulation on the floor, it can be mineral or basalt wool, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, etc. Insulation is laid on the insulation, then a reinforcing mesh with a cell of 600*600 mm or more, made of reinforcement with a cross-section of up to 6 mm.

The fittings are poured cement screed, after this you can begin finishing the floor; the material is selected depending on the design of the attic.

Photo of floor insulation in the attic, the insulation layer should fit snugly against the joists

How to make floor insulation over a wooden floor

Before insulating a wooden floor in the attic, be sure to treat the old coating with a fire-resistant compound and antiseptics. Next, for insulation, logs are made of 100*100 mm timber, in increments of 500-600 mm. The joists are sheathed with a waterproofing membrane, and on top of it, between the beams, insulation is laid very tightly; all gaps should be sealed with polyurethane foam. The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, always with an overlap of 150 mm. Sheet material can be mounted on top: plywood, chipboard, OSB, on which it is laid fine finishing, or cover it with a floorboard for painting.

How to insulate an attic ceiling

Hemming is extremely rare, since this is already a low room. But if such a need arose due to severe frosts, or the features require it, then, first of all, it is necessary to stretch a vapor barrier membrane along the perimeter of the future ceiling. Next, install a crate of wooden bars or metal profiles, with a cell 600*600 mm. Inside the crate we place a heater, mineral wool. The lathing is covered with another layer of vapor barrier, then you can line the ceiling with facing materials.

Crate for insulation of the attic ceiling

Advice: If the attic is planned to be insulated slab materials, then they are mounted on top of the crate. The frame should be reinforced with stiffeners so that the sheathing does not sag due to the weight of the insulation.

Which insulation to choose for the attic

The question of what is the best way to insulate an attic from the inside is a very pressing one, and reviews on forums vary radically; each material has its undoubted advantages, as well as disadvantages.

Styrofoam

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is the most cost-effective option to keep the room warm. To insulate the attic space, you will need a layer of foam plastic with a thickness of at least 100 mm. This is an almost weightless material, easy to install, suitable for insulation and. But it burns, becomes infected with mold, and in addition, rodents use it to organize their passages throughout the house. Despite the fact that this method of insulation has stood the test of time, the question of whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam, reviews vary from “in no case” to “only polystyrene foam,” remains open. We invite you to watch the instructions, which tell you in detail how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam; the video clearly demonstrates all the advantages and disadvantages of working with this material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Insulation of the attic floor with extruded polystyrene foam is usually carried out from the outside of the building. Although many people think of this material as foam, their chemical composition is very different. Expanded polystyrene tolerates chemical influences well, has a thermal conductivity lower than that of polystyrene foam, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through. Even if water has penetrated the surface of the insulation, the material will retain its properties during freezing and thawing. thermal insulation characteristics. Expanded polystyrene has different densities; the higher this indicator, the heavier the insulation; the lower the density, the better the heat and sound insulation properties. But extruded polystyrene foam is destroyed upon contact with complex carbohydrates, and it is also deformed from ultraviolet rays, therefore, it is not recommended to use nitro-based paints.

Watch the video on how to insulate an attic with your own hands using extruded polystyrene foam

Penofol

Insulating the attic with penofol is financially expensive compared to polystyrene foam. This is a new roll insulation that is a competitor to mineral wool. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, a good thermal insulator, and is resistant to moisture. A huge advantage of penofol is that it protects the room from the effects of radioactive substances, but does not tolerate mechanical loads well, and requires skills when laying the thermal insulation layer; violation of the technology leads to a deterioration in the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation.

Spraying polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation made by spraying polyurethane foam has no joints and, therefore, cold bridges. Such insulation does not require the cost of preliminary preparation of the attic for thermal insulation; the material is poured to the thickness of the attic rafters or more. The insulation is sprayed directly on the walls, floor, ceiling with special equipment. Polyurethane foam is resistant to fungi, and practically does not allow moisture to pass through, but does not tolerate the effects of esters and concentrated acids.

Ecowool

Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose, and 20% antiseptics and fire retardant additives. Applying this material To insulate the attic, you need to take into account the volume, since the insulation is greatly loosened. To perform high-quality insulation of the attic with ecowool, you should apply a layer about 200 mm thick. This is an environmentally friendly insulation material, it is applied to surfaces like papier-mâché, manually or mechanically, and does not form joints. It has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, is resistant to fungi and bacteria, and practically does not burn. Installation of the thermal insulation layer requires knowledge of application technology and professional skills.

Insulation with ecowool, this method of thermal protection requires skills and knowledge of the technology of applying material to surfaces

Mineral wool

Using mineral wool for insulation is the most popular way to keep heat in the attic. Depending on the composition and density of the wool, it can be placed in a spacer or in special frame. Mineral wool does not rot, but absorbs moisture, because of this its thermal insulation characteristics are reduced, and the insulation saturated with moisture becomes noticeably heavier, which puts significant loads on the rafters and roof of the attic. When insulated with mineral wool, there is practically no waste left, it is easy to cut. To insulate the attic floor, a layer 100-200 mm thick is required, depending on the design features of the structure. When working with mineral wool, wear a protective suit and goggles.

Insulation of the attic, video instructions on how to properly lay a thermal insulation layer of mineral wool

Sawdust

I would like not to abandon the old, old-fashioned and almost free method of insulation. Construction of a thermal insulation cake using sawdust. This is an environmentally friendly, time-tested method of insulation. Sawdust is mixed with lime and an insulating layer 100 mm thick is laid. Such thermal insulation is several times inferior to modern insulation; in addition, it is a fire hazardous insulation method. But if this is a country house, and according to the design the attic is a cold, unheated room, then this method of insulation is completely justified.

To insulate the attic, you can use both traditional materials and modern insulation materials, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation layer

Now the market is represented by a huge selection of insulation: rockwool stone wool, slab foam, backfill, plates, mats, etc. Which insulation is better for an attic depends on what room should be insulated: if it is a warm attic, then basalt wool, PPU, and if it’s cold - polystyrene foam and sawdust. The second criterion for choosing insulation is how much you are willing to spend on thermal insulation. It is believed that in principle there cannot be universal insulation materials; each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. We tried to select for you as much as possible useful tips How to insulate an attic, video materials will help you understand the intricacies of thermal insulation with each specific material.

Subtleties of insulation and hydro-vapor barrier of the attic

How to install insulation correctly?

When thinking about how to insulate the attic floor, we often lose sight of important things. For example, how correctly the material was laid plays a big role in the effectiveness of insulation.

• The material should be laid in two layers, with the second covering the seams and joints of the first.
• The thickness of the rafter legs and the first layer of insulation should be the same. Otherwise, the slabs of the second layer will get bent, which will lead to a loss of joint density.
• The width of the insulation should be equal to the distance between rafter legs. This way the slabs will lie flat, with complete abutment, and the insulation of the attic floor from the inside will be complete.

The second layer of insulation does not stay in place, what should I do?

There are usually no problems with insulating the attic with slab materials - they fit between the battens of the counter lathing at a loss. Rolled types are soft, they sag and, as a result, fall out of their place. A logical question arises: how to properly insulate an attic with your own hands so that everything is securely fixed? The problem is solved with nails and synthetic cord:

• We hammer small nails along the edges of the counter batten slats.
• The cord is tied to the topmost nail.
• The material is inserted into place and secured with a cord, overlapping from one rail to another.

We work like this until we finish insulating the attic with our own hands.

How to insulate walls under roof slopes?

If interior walls living attic under a sloping roof are made vertical, in addition to choosing how to insulate the walls of the attic from the inside, there is another task: the placement of insulating material. There is no need to do this directly along the roof slopes. The insulation is placed on the shields that will serve as the walls of the future room. And so that the material does not fall into the space under the roof, on the reverse side, the shields are hemmed with scraps of boards. Wall insulation from the inside, the photo of which you see below, is performed in this way.

Is it possible to replace floor vapor protection with moisture protection?

Usually, the attic floor insulation cake in the country house consists of a layer of waterproofing, insulation and vapor barrier. The idea of ​​installing moisture protection instead of vapor protection seems logical - protecting the floor from spilled water. Not so simple. The insulation works as long as it is dry. Thermal insulation values ​​decrease with increasing humidity levels.

If we fill the floor with a vapor barrier, the water will sooner or later evaporate, and the insulation will restore its properties. When moisture protection is on top, and water somehow gets inside the ceiling, there will be no way out for moisture. We get: the lack of floor insulation in the attic floor and the presence, over time, of mold under it.

How to properly install a vapor barrier?

Insulation of the attic floor from the inside is never complete without the installation of vapor barrier membranes. This process has its own nuances:

• Foil membranes are installed with the shiny side into the room.
• The positioning of conventional fiberglass sheets is determined by touch - the smooth side towards the insulation, the rough side towards the room.
• Installation of any vapor barrier sheets is carried out in strips, in a horizontal direction, from bottom to top.

These rules apply to the insulation of the attic floor both along the roof slopes and gables.

How wide should the ventilation gap be between the roof and the insulation layer?

The width of the ventilation gap depends on the type of roofing material, and not on what you are going to use to insulate the attic from the inside:

• Bituminous shingles, rolled materials, asbestos-cement sheets, galvanized steel - there must be at least 50 mm under them.
• Any corrugated sheets such as metal tiles, profiled galvanized steel - from the roofing material to the attic insulation layer from the inside, leave a gap of 25 mm.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating an attic with polystyrene foam?

• Do not use mushroom dowels when insulating the attic with polystyrene foam. Reviews usually do not reflect this, but multiple cold bridges resulting in the process increase heat loss.
• When thinking about how to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam, remember that for wooden surfaces this material is not suitable.
• Should be avoided polyurethane foam to eliminate gaps between foam boards. It is better to choose a material that has a tongue-and-groove connection. If you need to put the cut pieces together, just adjust them with a knife.

Which is better, basalt wool or slag wool?

Many people are at a loss as to which insulation is best for the attic. This is especially true for slag and basalt mineral wool - they are called in one word, they look similar. The latter is better because it has a lower thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.12. For slag wool this indicator is 0.48. Another advantage of basalt insulation is the absence of formaldehyde in the composition. Therefore, when deciding how best to insulate the attic from the inside, it is preferable to choose basalt wool.

What to do if the thickness of the insulation is greater than the height of the sheathing?

If, while insulating the attic gable from the inside, you find that the insulation is too thick and protrudes above the sheathing, under no circumstances should you press it down. The thermal properties of a material directly depend on its density: the lower it is, the greater the effect of the insulation.

By crushing, for example, slag wool, we compact it, worsening its properties. How to insulate the gable of an attic without redoing the sheathing? Simply increase its thickness by stuffing slats of the desired section on top. They do the same with roof slopes, increasing the rafters in width.

Is it possible to do without insulating the insulated attic floor?

Deciding how to insulate the attic for winter accommodation We often doubt whether it is necessary to take such care of the hydro- and vapor barrier of the floor. In theory, if the floor is well insulated and insulated along the walls and roof, this need not be done. However, do not forget that warm air tends to rise, and with it moisture rises. That is, the floor of the top floor receives moisture from the entire house. Therefore, in the winter version of the attic, the layers of insulation must be enclosed in water and vapor barrier membranes.

The size of suburban areas and the desire of their owners to use the fertile soil layer to the maximum convinces them to make decisions about expanding usable areas in the vertical rather than horizontal direction. It is easier and more profitable to equip an attic above the bathhouse than to attach it to it extra room rest or build a separate house. True, acceptable this option This will happen only if there is more than 50% of the useful under-roof space with a height of 2.5 m, and if the ceiling above the bathhouse is designed in such a way that you can walk on its upper plane without fear. If the above prerequisites are met, insulating the attic will allow you to turn it into an excellent living space.

• Let's start with the fact that the roof configuration is far from the shape of a classic cube. The insulation will have to be installed on inclined surfaces. And since we are considering insulating the attic from the inside, it is impossible not to take into account the complexity of installing soft and flexible rolled materials.
• Let us remember that the vast majority of the area of ​​the upper fence is a roof structure with a rafter system. Its coating is made of extremely light materials with high waterproofing qualities, but also with considerable thermal conductivity. The wooden elements of the sheathing of the rafter structure are laid with gaps that do not form a thermal barrier.

• Let's take into account that the attic floor has not only a roof surface, but also at least two gables and a valley. Leaving them without insulation or poorly insulating them means reducing all efforts to zero.
• Let's not forget that roofing material that does not allow atmospheric moisture to pass through also prevents the escape of fumes that are natural for a bathhouse and not only for it.
• We will ensure the safe use of living space by insulating the attic roof with materials with the environmental and hygienic characteristics required for home improvement.

Summarizing the above criteria, we will create a unique formula of the requirements that the thermal insulation system being constructed must meet. According to the tasks set for insulation, we will select the material and find out everything technological nuances. For thermal insulation to work effectively, it is necessary that:

• the insulation layer completely covered the internal surfaces without “gaps” in a kind of carpet, so that there were no weak points in the thermal insulation system in the form of an unprotected ridge and pediments not covered with insulation;
• the insulating material, resisting the attacks of a cold atmospheric front from the outside and a warm, humid front from the inside, was protected from condensation formed as a result of their confrontation;
• moisture did not accumulate on the outer surface of the heat-insulating layer, which was not allowed out by the waterproofing roofing coating, so that excess moisture was removed through the ventilation ducts;
• lightweight roofing insulation was equipped with wind protection, preventing heat from blowing out of the attic on windy days;
• the material is suitable in terms of technical, technological and sanitary-hygienic parameters.

The listed requirements are a detailed answer to the question “how to properly insulate an attic.” If the thermal insulation system meets all conditions, then it will serve for a long time and work efficiently.

Choosing the right insulation

From a technological point of view, slabs are best suited for creating a thermal insulation system from the inside. Using a material that holds its shape, it is easier, faster and more convenient to insulate the attic with your own hands minimum quantity additional fixing devices. For their correct installation nailed to the rafters longitudinal bars with dimensions allowing for a ventilation gap. The outer plane of the bars must coincide with the outer plane of the elements rafter system, the internal plane of the heat-insulating material must coincide with the internal plane of the rafters.

Note. If the power of the selected insulation is greater than the width of the rafter, each of the elements of the rafter system will have to be nailed or installed on the screws with an additional beam. Wooden additions must be treated with an antiseptic before installation.

In any case, both with sufficient and insufficient width of the rafters, the ventilation space between the insulation and the roofing material must be left.

Indicators of the thermal properties of the material determine the climatic characteristics of the region. The collection of building regulations numbered 02/23/2003 will help you find them out. According to the indicator specified in SNiP, the material must be selected.

• Polystyrene foam is a budget material and a convenient way of insulation. Lightweight slabs will not be difficult to install; the thermal insulation system will not significantly increase the weight of the roof. However, the weak ability to conduct steam and its attractiveness as a tasty dish for mice make us think about whether it is worth insulating the attic with polystyrene foam.
• Mineral wool is also a convenient and democratic option. The slabs, cut to a size a couple of centimeters larger than the gap between the rafters, are easy to install. Before installation, the insulation element must be slightly compressed and placed in the required location. Having straightened out, the elastic mineral wool will “sit” firmly in its nest. Glass wool can be used as an almost equivalent alternative.

• Expanded polystyrene is usually laid on top of the rafter system, forming a ventilation gap by installing a counter batten between the insulation boards and the roofing. It is not suitable for insulating a roofing system from the inside, but can be used for insulating gables.
• Polyurethane foam - easily applied to surfaces of any complexity by spraying. A contractor with a portable installation that supplies foamed insulating material under pressure can work on planes with any slope. Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam will create a monolithic layer without the slightest gaps. In addition, there will be no need for a vapor barrier layer to protect the interior from condensation.
• Ecowool is a heat insulator from the category of sprayed materials. Its properties are similar to wood; it contains an antiseptic that prevents damage to the insulating layer and the wood in contact with it. Just like the previous analogue, it creates a continuous cover that does not sag during many years of use. To insulate with ecowool, it will be necessary to mount a false ceiling and install a sheathing to attach a vapor barrier material to it.
• Foil materials that work not only as insulation, but also as a mirror reflector of heat tending to escape. In order for the foil heat insulator to perform its job perfectly, during installation you need to unfold it with the aluminum layer inside the room and leave a distance of 5 cm between it and the vapor barrier layer.

The list is quite sufficient so that there is something to focus on, but the most popular materials for insulation from the inside are mineral wool. Spraying with polyurethane foam is popular, but not available to everyone due to the lack of equipment, which, however, can be rented for a while from a construction organization. All that remains is to figure out how to insulate the attic with your own hands and get excellent results.

What should a proper constructive pie look like?

Exaggeratedly, the thermal insulation system represents the following constructive pie, if you start listing the layers from the side of the space being developed:

• Cladding made of plasterboard slabs.
• Vapor barrier layer, preferably a membrane type option. It is a continuous shell created from strips laid with a 10-centimeter overlap roll material. The canvases are secured at horizontal and vertical joints with special adhesive tape.
• A sheathing that performs three functions. The slats attached across the rafters hold the insulation, serve as the basis for fixing the vapor barrier and form a ventilation space, which is especially necessary when using foil material.
• Insulation laid in one or several layers depending on the thermal effect created. When insulating the attic from the room side, it is mounted between the rafters.
• A waterproofing layer that protects the insulation from getting wet, which results in a decrease in thermal properties.

Note. Builders who thoroughly know how to insulate the attic are strongly advised to leave a ventilation gap between the heat-insulating material and waterproofing. According to technological standards, its absence is considered a grave mistake.

• Another counter-lattice that creates a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the roofing material. Ventilation in this case is necessary to remove moisture accumulating on the waterproofing membrane. To remove moisture, holes are provided at the base of the slopes and in the valley area. The width of the gap for ventilation is determined by the roofing material. If the roof is covered with tiles, slate, corrugated sheets or corrugated ondulin, it is enough to leave 25 mm, if with flat material without profile relief you need to leave 50 mm.
• Windproof vapor barrier equipping the ventilation space. It is needed to retain heat in the event of active ventilation in the ventilation gap. It is laid above the rafter legs, fastened with rails, on top of which the roofing is mounted.

By doing the attic insulation with your own hands, observing all the subtleties, the owner of a bath with an attic will provide himself with a comfortable living space that eliminates the need to build on summer cottage house. To equip a mansard roof for housing, you do not need to obtain permits and seek the consent of neighbors. But the benefit and economic effect is obvious.

For a private house, insulation would be a very reasonable solution. mansard roof. Firstly, you use the area more rationally - thanks to the insulation of the roof, the attic does not turn into a large refrigerator for the winter.

There you can arrange an office, a workshop, a children's playroom, or whatever your heart desires. Secondly, you save fuel - through a cold attic, the house loses up to a quarter of all heat, and, naturally, it needs to be heated more and more often. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate an attic roof occupies many homeowners.

If you decide to insulate the roof at the project stage, so much the better - then the insulation technology is determined already during the construction of the house, and thus you get “room for maneuver”. In this case, you will have the opportunity to think in advance what suits you more - insulating the attic roof from the inside or outside - and choose exactly those methods and materials that are optimal for this.

If you are dealing with a finished building that you have decided to improve, the only option left is to insulate the attic roof from the inside. And here the question naturally arises, how best to do this. Of course, a good professional for whom the thermal insulation of an attic roof is regular work, will do everything quickly and without problems.

But if you hire a specialist without recommendations, then you cannot be completely confident in the highest possible quality of the result. In addition, using the services of hired workers is too expensive for many. And finally, the last argument in favor of insulating the attic roof from the inside yourself is that doing something with your own hands is simply very pleasant.

Where to begin?

How to properly insulate an attic roof? First of all, avoiding negligence and not succumbing to illusions - this work is complex, time-consuming and requires certain costs. Therefore, it is better to spend more time preparing the project and drawing up a detailed estimate than to somehow insulate the attic roof, and then suffer in a cold or damp room and endlessly repair your house due to condensation that destroys wooden structures.

When preparing for insulation work, it should be taken into account that the configuration sloping roof in terms of arranging a residential attic, it provides great opportunities compared to a gable roof, since with such a roof contour, the useful volume of the room increases significantly.

How to choose insulation?

The first step should be the proper selection of materials. Choosing roof insulation is not as simple a task as it might seem. The choice of thermal insulation on the market is huge, but you need to choose one for the attic that will ensure a stable level of humidity in the room and no sudden temperature changes.

The best insulation should have the following qualities:

• low thermal conductivity, that is, high heat retention;
• low hygroscopicity, that is, resistance to moisture absorption - wet insulation significantly loses quality;
• the absence of toxic components and environmental friendliness - after all, we are talking about a residential area;
• Fire safety.

Wherein thermal insulation material for the roof it must be vapor-permeable, that is, not interfere with the free exit of water vapor from the room. If this requirement is neglected, the result will be an accumulation of condensation and a “bathroom” atmosphere in the room. This in itself is not very pleasant, not to mention the dangers of dampness for the attic walls and ceiling.

Another important condition– the material for insulating the attic roof must adhere well to inclined surfaces and not deform over time. Finally, it must also meet the requirements of sound insulation - if this point is left unattended, then during heavy rain or, especially, hail, the top floor will be unusable.

Considering that metal tiles or metal corrugated sheets, which are now most often used as roofing, not only perfectly conduct sound, but even amplify it, you will not be able to sleep, talk or watch TV when something is knocking on the roof.

To choose insulation for an attic roof, you will have to study the many materials that the modern market offers. Almost all insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages - for example, ordinary polystyrene foam, valued by many for its low cost and ease of processing, is bad because it is not “transparent” enough for moisture rising from the room along with the air. In other words, it is better not to use it for rooms where you plan to stay for a long time, for example, bedrooms.

Glass wool is traditionally used as insulation, but at the same time it cakes quite quickly and loses its shape, and with it its thermal insulation qualities. The main disadvantage of polyurethane foam, which is becoming increasingly popular, is its inability to withstand fire, as well as its rather low vapor permeability. In addition, this material requires meticulous preliminary calculations– the fact is that when it hardens, its structure expands, which is why the entire structure can “crawl.” It is necessary to take into account the strength of load-bearing elements with utmost precision.

The best way to insulate an attic roof is something everyone decides for themselves, based on their capabilities and the intended purpose of the room. From the point of view of many experts, one of the best roofing thermal insulation can be called basalt slabs - this material is durable and elastic, retains heat well, does not lose its qualities during operation and is not prone to moisture accumulation. Another undoubted advantage is ease of installation. This is due to the fact that basalt slabs have an optimal width for fastening between the rafters and do not have to be cut to the required size.

The main rule

Even if you have already decided which insulation is best for you, it is too early to start the work itself. First, you need to understand the sequence of these works, and for this you need to get a general idea of ​​the structure of the insulated roof. Or, as the professionals put it, a roofing “pie”.

From top to bottom, the components of the pie are:

• the roof itself (corrugated sheeting, tiles, slate);
• sheathing;
• counter-lattice;
• waterproofing material;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• ceiling finishing.

That is, when installing thermal insulation, the main rule should be taken into account first of all - the insulation must be protected both from external (atmospheric) moisture and from internal moisture rising from the room. Otherwise, condensation will inevitably accumulate, which will ultimately lead to the most disastrous consequences not only for the roof space, but also for the entire house.

If you decide to insulate a finished attic roof from the inside, then, as can be seen from the list above, you already have all the layers of the “pie”, up to and including waterproofing. All that remains is to lay the insulation, cover it with a vapor barrier membrane - and you can finish the ceiling. It would seem that everything is simple. But here we must strictly follow established rules, otherwise all your efforts will be in vain.

Work order

Even before purchasing materials, you will need to calculate the area of ​​the attic roof that you want to insulate. When calculating, the area of ​​the gables must also be taken into account - even the most carefully insulated roof will not have an effect if the cold comes from the ends.

Only when the measurements are completed and everything necessary has been purchased in the required volume, you can begin installation work. Carefully study the instructions for all materials - how to roll them out, how to attach them, etc. To fix insulating films and insulation, stock up on the required number of wooden slats or a construction stapler in advance.

Waterproofing

If you start with waterproofing (let's say you haven't installed it yet), the most important point, which is worth paying attention to, is that between it and the roofing material there must be an air gap of at least three centimeters. More is possible, less is not possible.

This is necessary for proper ventilation of the under-roof space - if air flows do not pass freely between the waterproofing film and the inside of the covering, this will lead to the accumulation of condensation. As a result, the insulation, when wet, will lose its beneficial features, the wooden parts of the structure will begin to rot, the metal parts will begin to rust, and in the end, such negligence will shorten the life of your home.

For the same reasons, it is strictly not recommended to use polyethylene and other “non-breathable” materials as waterproofing. Nowadays, the construction products market offers a wide selection of special hydro- and vapor barrier membranes designed specifically for this purpose and providing an optimal balance between moisture permeability from the inside and impermeability from the outside.

Thermal insulation

Next, the insulation is installed. It should be attached strictly according to the instructions. If you use basalt, keep in mind that it holds well between the rafters due to its elasticity, but over time the elasticity of the material will decrease somewhat. Therefore, it does not seem advisable to place it without fixing it at all.

Vapor barrier

A vapor barrier membrane is applied to the insulation, and only after that the ceiling covering is installed.

Conclusion

How to insulate an attic roof is generally clear. The main rules here, as with any construction work, are thoroughness, accuracy, and accuracy. Follow the correct sequence during installation, follow the rules for working with materials, buy insulation and membranes only from trusted sellers and manufacturers. And then your warm attic will delight you for many years to come.

Attics are most often equipped to provide additional living space. At the same time, it is not necessary to live in the attic - all work on the insulation of the upper room is carried out with the expectation of high-quality thermal insulation of the house in order to save energy. In addition, being in a warm attic is much more comfortable than in an uninsulated room.

Peculiarities

Residential attic- has long been not a rare occurrence when constructing a private house on two floors. More and more attention is paid to the functional qualities of each centimeter of the attic area. Therefore, it is important to carry out repairs or design a house in such a way that, if necessary, it is possible to use separate rooms, make them functional and more suitable for living. In order to feel warm and cozy under the roof at any time of the year, insulation work is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the attic. For example, special insulation is important when the roof is already covered.

There are certain standards for carrying out such work from the inside in the attic under the finished roof. It is worth considering that the attic as such is not equivalent to the attic space. The attic always has a characteristic slope, and the highest point of height is usually at a level of 2.5 m. To insulate such a room, you can use different materials. The most common ones include mineral wool and polystyrene foam. When carrying out work on insulating the attic, it is necessary to take into account what the room will look like in appearance and whether it will lose “extra” meters.

For high-quality insulation of the attic from the inside, if the roof is already covered, the right technology is important. So, when insulating walls and ceilings, one or another method of performing the work is used. For example, to insulate an attic roof, a multi-layer structure is used (for example, 5 layers of screed with foam glue).

All work on interior decoration Attic insulation is carried out in five stages.

• The roof is insulated and the rafter system is treated. Rafters made of wooden beams can be seen under the roofs of houses built using old construction technologies. Typically, the roof of such houses is covered with tiles or slate. The materials have very high thermal conductivity. In such cases, they say that the roof is simply protected from wind and external weather influences.

• Waterproofing quality– another important criterion for ensuring the reliability of the roofing structure as a whole. Waterproofing is simply necessary in the attic space. For this purpose, membrane films are usually used, which can allow steam to pass through, but do not allow moisture to pass through. In old houses, instead of a special film, you can often see a simple roofing material with similar properties. The main feature of insulating materials is optimal protection of the roof at the joints, preventing moisture from entering the heat-insulating material. Waterproofing coatings today are characterized by vapor conductivity.
• Insulation materials. Among modern means, those characterized by low thermal conductivity are used. Insulation parameters between 0.03-0.04 Vi/μ are comparable in quality and durability to reinforced foam. Mineral wool or extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex, penoizol) are also actively used to insulate the attic from the inside. In terms of efficiency, penoplex is rated higher than others, but is more expensive. The selected materials must meet the main requirements - ensure heat exchange in winter, protect against overheating in summer.

• Vapor barrier materials. Usually we are talking about a membrane film that will help preserve the original properties of the insulation. The material should not provoke the formation of condensation, which is a disaster for thermal insulation materials.
• Decorative properties. An insulated attic must meet the design requirements of the room and comply with the overall design concept of the house. That's why so much attention is paid to cladding. As decorative finishing Often plasterboard, OSB boards or other types of materials are used that can be laid on the ceiling, walls, and floor of the attic.

Roof structures

The reliability of a house is determined, among other things, by the roof structure. The roof can be gable, sloping, or have a different slope. Due to the design features of the attic, it is possible to obtain additional usable space. To do this, it is necessary to properly manage the attic space of the house, especially for low-rise buildings. An important role in this case is played by the characteristics of the roof. Traditionally, pentagonal gable structures with slopes of different sizes were suitable for organizing an attic space. A convex fracture on such roofs was formed due to the difference in slopes.

Many schemes country houses correspond to the definitions of a “broken” roof. Today, the configuration of such mansard roofs has undergone many modifications. Now it's not just a pentagon and more gable roof. But their main technological features are saved.

Externally, the shape of the attic structure can be assessed using several parameters.

By slope and roof configuration:

• a triangular roof with a multi-level slope of the lower and upper parts in the form of a gable structure without kinks;
• pentagonal variations on the theme of a roof with slopes at convex corners (two joined parts clearly appear in the design).

Attic roofs have a multi-tiered rafter system. In the lower tier there is a usable area 2-2.5 m high (a diagram must be prepared in advance). The height parameters are indicated for ease of movement inside. The second tier is the shape of the top of the roof, which can have an arbitrary height. Although here you can experiment with the height to get the optimally comfortable roof shape. In this aspect, it is more advantageous to use a pentagonal attic, in which the corners seem to run along an imaginary circle. It is worth considering that the attic can be equipped not only if there are two pitched roof. Using basic technologies, it is possible to arrange and insulate the attic in shed or hipped roof structures.

So, the main feature of the mansard roof should be recognized as two adjacent truss structures that are connected into a triangle or pentagon, thereby creating the desired shape of the roof of the house.

Basic technologies for constructing a pitched roof known today.

• Inclined. The lower tier of the attic is built, then the upper part is equipped.
• Hanging. Depending on the technical features of the roof structure, the upper part is equipped. With a schematic section of the attic roof, you can see that at the bottom it looks like a trapezoid, and at the top it looks like a triangle.

If nothing needs to be done with the shape of the attic, then you can proceed directly to work on warming the room from the inside by choosing the appropriate quality material.

Types of insulation

When choosing the best insulating material for the attic, one should take into account the main characteristics of the material, its valuable properties, the pros and cons for a particular structure.

The main criteria for selecting insulation are the following:

• good thermal insulation (for example, foil material, insulation with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basalt material);
• economical use (rational insulation);

• strength and durability;
• moisture-repellent properties;
• sound insulation;
• ease of installation.

It is important to remember that the main value of the material will be its ability to retain heat, that is, the thermal conductivity of thermal insulation materials.

Best qualities possesses the insulation, in which the coefficient of thermal conductivity will be lower. For example, less than 0.04 W/mS. This takes into account the thickness of the material and climatic conditions. The question still remains about the possibility of using the same heat-insulating material for cladding walls and floors. The more universal qualities of the material will allow it to work on any surface (walls, floors, ceilings). Typically, walls, gables and floors are “wrapped” with this material. This allows you to achieve equal insulation around the entire perimeter of the room.

When choosing insulation materials, one should not forget about the sound-absorbing properties of the material. To understand this issue, it is worth imagining the noise on a steel roof even from a little rain, especially if we are talking about a residential attic. Calmness and comfort are the most important criteria when arranging a home. Also, when choosing insulation, you need to check the supporting structure, what materials it is made of (metal, wood, reinforced concrete). Combustible materials (rafters) will not allow the use of some types of insulation. But, basically, today safe and environmentally friendly facing materials are used. Among them there are both traditional (glass wool) and more technological ones (eco wool, foil board). Let's look at some of them.

Plates and mats

For internal insulation of an attic in the presence of a roof, fireproof and moisture-repellent materials such as mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, penofol, polystyrene foam, cake made from sawdust boards, and extruded polystyrene foam are used. Insulating material in the form of slabs and mats is suitable for single- or multi-slope roofs. The lathing is done according to a similar pattern. The slabs are convenient for transportation and installation.

Rolled

Many people find it more convenient to use materials in rolls. You can easily cut a piece to the desired length. Rolled insulation from traditional materials suitable for roofs where the rafters are at a standard distance from each other. If necessary, the remaining free space can be filled with material.

Sprayable

The so-called sprayed materials for cladding the attic do not leave joints and areas for cold penetration. For example, you can use the polyurethane foam spraying method. This type of insulation does not require pre-training attics. The material is simply poured onto a certain thickness(usually the thickness of the rafters). These materials are distinguished by the fact that they are resistant to the development of fungus and mold. Spraying is convenient for both walls and ceilings.

How to choose?

The quality and durability of the material depends on the manufacturer, operating conditions and the characteristics of the material. The insulation should be as resistant to mechanical loads as possible, so you should always choose the one that is better for specific indicators. The construction market today is replete with modern insulation materials of different brands, differing in weight, color, and installation features.

A small mass of insulation allows you to use it between the rafters of the attic structure. With a stronger frame, it is possible to use heavier material (plates). They are mounted on the lathing or on the rafter structure. Depending on the frequent load on the roof (snow), you can decide on a soft or hard insulation. If it is too soft it will have to be repaired. If it is too hard, it may lose its thermal insulation properties, for example, when insulating a ceiling. And, of course, the insulating material for the attic should not crack, deform or change over time. It is not always possible to immediately decide on the choice of material for insulating the attic from the inside, even when there is no need to cover the roof.

All thermal insulation materials have their advantages and disadvantages. Having unique characteristics, such materials are assessed according to universal criteria.

• Even a budget option for insulation (for example, polystyrene foam) should keep the house warm. Therefore, it is necessary to use a material with a thickness of at least 10 cm. Plates from the same foam are practically weightless, no special installation is required, they are suitable for any type of attic space. However, Styrofoam is flammable. Therefore, when choosing a heater, one should not always give preference to cheap analogues.
• Extruded polystyrene foam can be used as insulation both inside and outside the premises. Do not confuse it with foam, the latter has a different structure. Expanded polystyrene does not react to chemical reagents, has a low thermal conductivity, does not absorb moisture. Slabs of material can have different densities, but can be highly deformed.

• Penofol is used as more modern remedy as a heater, but also as a more expensive one. Insulation in the form of a rolled material can easily replace mineral wool. It is not affected by moisture. This material is believed to have properties that can protect against radioactive waves.
• Spraying with liquid polyurethane foam will achieve the required resistance to drafts. Or rather, there won’t be any, since insulation can be used to cover joints and gaps on any surface. When using the material, there is no need for additional installation of thermal insulation material.

• Ecowool for the attic is used relatively recently. This material consists of 80 percent cellulose. The rest is antiseptic additives. When using ecowool, the shrinkage of the material during operation is taken into account. Modern material resistant to fire, does not get wet, does not collect bacteria.
• Almost everything is covered with mineral wool attic structures country houses. This material is very popular due to the qualities of heat and sound insulation. It can be laid on the crate or on the frame. Mineral wool is not subject to rotting, but you need to remember that the material is able to absorb moisture and due to this increase in size. And this gives additional weight to the structure.

Thickness calculation

A material with universal parameters - modern insulation, allows you to create the most comfortable conditions and the right microclimate in the upper part of the house, protecting it from heat loss. Installation of insulation depends on its technical characteristics. Consumption is determined by its thickness. Eat different variants installation, since almost everything is used in the construction business today - from mineral wool to polystyrene. It is possible to calculate the required thickness of the insulating material according to a certain scheme and based on the main parameters of SNiP. When calculating the thickness, craftsmen are guided by regulatory requirements. The characteristics of both the heat insulator itself and the attic structure are taken into account.

Rules for calculations.

• When choosing a heater for an attic room, the operational density of the material is taken into account. The heat insulator is selected in such a way as to ensure the overall thermal conductivity of the wall materials.

• The load on the structure must be taken into account when installing insulation. Thermal insulating materials vary in weight - it is greater with a higher insulator density. So, if the structure is stone or made of brick, this will allow the use of any material for cladding. For wooden frame insulation will do lower density.
• Determination of dew point. According to this parameter, when calculating the choice of heat insulator, the quality of wall finishing is taken into account both inside and outside. The presence of dense plaster, for example, allows you to “save” on insulation. Incorrectly selected insulation thickness will lead to condensation accumulation, which will negatively affect the performance characteristics of the entire structure.

• P – indicator of material thickness;
• K is the value of the thermal conductivity coefficient.

Arranging a living space in place of an attic has long ceased to be a rare occurrence. More and more home owners are interested in how to properly carry out renovations so that life “under the roof” is no less comfortable than in the house itself. Let's consider how to insulate an attic if the roof is already covered, what materials are best suited for this purpose and what nuances you should pay attention to.

The attic is not just a habitable attic. There are some norms that distinguish these two rooms from each other. First of all, the attic roof must necessarily have a slope. In addition, the height of the room established by the norm must be at least 2.5 m.

Focusing on attractive appearance, many decide to equip the attic. But in reality, you have to deal with some nuances, which it is advisable to familiarize yourself with before starting work:

• the materials that were used to build the attic directly determine further heat loss in this room. Therefore, their choice should be approached very responsibly;
• Properly selected engineering solutions, which make it possible to provide all the necessary communications on the upper floor, have no less influence;
• The shape of the roof plays a significant role. It can be single-pitch, gable or broken;
• in order to hide the load-bearing elements of the roof, you will have to use your imagination;
• the attic can be located not only on the territory of the house, but also extend beyond its boundaries, supported by columns.

Each of these aspects has its own influence on the approach that will be required for high-quality roof insulation. But the main role still belongs to two main materials - heat and water insulation. On the one hand, the space under the roof is in the coldest zone of the building. On the other hand, a strong difference between the temperature inside and outside often causes condensation to appear, which has a destructive effect on materials.

The best materials for do-it-yourself attic insulation

There are many suitable options for internal insulation of the attic. But your choice must be made based on the characteristics of the region of residence, as well as the design features of the specific roof with which you will be working. Let's look at what options exist today and what features are typical for them.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam: the pros and cons of the material

Polystyrene foam is one of the most famous insulation materials, which occupies its niche among inexpensive thermal insulation materials. Its price is indeed significantly lower than many others, but this is far from its only advantage:

• Styrofoam does not absorb moisture at all. If the material is pre-treated with an impregnation specially designed for this purpose, then the water will simply flow down over the surface;
• light weight is another advantage, which greatly facilitates transportation and installation, and also reduces the load on the roof;
• the thermal conductivity of polystyrene foam is very low, so it copes with its direct functions more than fully;
• Styrofoam is easy to cut and fasten. This allows you to work with it without any problems even if you lack any experience.

Interesting! In terms of cost, this method can only be compared with insulating the ceiling with expanded clay, although now this method is used less and less.

Based on these characteristics, we can conclude that polystyrene foam is an almost win-win option when it comes to insulating the attic from the inside. But insulating walls with foam plastic from the inside also has disadvantages, and sometimes they turn out to be much more significant than the advantages:

• the vapor permeability of the foam is at a very low level. As a result, the room is often stuffy and hot. This also leads to increased humidity, which causes the development of fungi and mold on wooden roofing elements;
• despite its artificial origin, this material is often damaged by rodents;
• Over time, wood tends to shrink, which leads to the formation of gaps between the foam elements. It is impossible to fix this, and the only way to solve the problem is to completely replace the thermal insulation material.

Many believe that the listed disadvantages outweigh the advantages and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam is not justified. But it must be admitted that this is one of the most budget options, which causes a minimum of hassle, and if the installation technology is followed, it may well become an alternative to more expensive solutions.

Attic insulation with polystyrene foam: advantages, disadvantages and features

Extruded polystyrene foam is very similar to polystyrene foam. Their technical characteristics are almost identical, with the exception of one significant aspect - installation technology. If polystyrene foam needs to be laid between the rafters, then polystyrene foam is placed on top, which eliminates the risk of cracks and gaps.

Helpful advice! Some manufacturers offer customers slabs with stepped joints, which makes the joints even stronger and more reliable. This fixation of elements together is an ideal option for insulating an attic roof.

Among other advantages of roof insulation with polystyrene foam, one cannot fail to note its low weight, which is perfectly combined with high strength and resistance to external influences. In addition, the service life of this material is quite long, subject to the entire attic insulation technology with foam.

Expanded polystyrene is not prone to rotting or decomposition processes, which is also important in the case of roof work. It can be topped with any topcoat that will give an attractive appearance and provide additional protection.

Working with expanded polystyrene on your own is simple: a variety of adhesive mixtures and mastics are suitable for fixing it. And in some cases, even a construction stapler is used. So for installation there is no need to purchase any expensive additional elements.

But behind all these positive characteristics, one should not forget about the only, but rather serious, drawback of polystyrene foam insulation from the inside of walls and roofs - the material has an increased level of combustibility. For owners, this means the need for a more careful and thoughtful summing up of all communications, in particular, electricity.

Of course, manufacturers are trying to minimize this drawback, but today we can say with confidence that this issue remains open, and every owner who has made a choice in favor of insulating the walls from the inside with foam plastic is obliged to take care of his safety.

Interesting! It is no coincidence that this material is most often chosen for insulating balconies. Expanded polystyrene has a very low thermal conductivity, and at the same time on the balcony it practically does not have to come into contact with electricity.

Insulating the attic from the inside with mineral wool: a worthy alternative to penoplex

Mineral wool is another thermal insulation material that is used everywhere and is widely known for its properties. It got its name because of its fibrous structure, similar to medical cotton wool. You can buy it in rolls, which makes transportation and installation even more convenient.

Low thermal conductivity goes well with the ability to not absorb moisture. Although, if this happens, the material dries quickly without losing its appearance and technical characteristics.

Mineral wool belongs to the category of environmentally friendly and safe materials, which becomes noticeable even if the upper part of the roof is covered with metal tiles, which are prone to strong heating when exposed to sunlight. In addition, mineral wool also serves as a sound-absorbing barrier, and unlike polystyrene foam, it is not at all of interest to rodents and various insects.

Insulation of the roof from the inside with mineral wool must be done taking into account the fact that this is a fairly elastic material, even despite its soft fibrous structure. It is quite capable of being held between the rafters, provided it is properly fixed.

Helpful advice! In the process of cutting mineral wool for laying sheets between the rafters, it is necessary to leave a margin of approximately 2 cm. This will allow them to be held and not fall out even if there is no additional elements fastenings

Insulating the roof from the inside with glass wool: is it worth using this material?

In terms of its characteristics, glass wool is similar to mineral wool, but in this case, the fibers that make up the material are longer, which generally increases the elasticity of the material. Strength indicators and soundproofing abilities are also slightly higher. But when in contact with moisture, glass wool is inferior to mineral wool, absorbing more water.

The use of glass wool for insulation of residential premises does not lead to any negative consequences for the health of residents. No toxic substances are used in the production process. In addition, glass wool is characterized by low flammability.

When working with the material, safety regulations must be followed to avoid glass wool fibers getting into the air. Its small particles can cause irritation of mucous membranes, and therefore the use of a respirator and safety glasses is a must.

Helpful advice! Sometimes glass wool fibers can cause skin irritation, so it is recommended to wear closed clothing and even gloves when working with it.

Do-it-yourself insulation of an attic roof from the inside using stone wool

Stone wool is the most expensive option among similar materials. But at the same time, it is the safest for human health and, in terms of reliability, significantly exceeds all other options. Here are some of its main advantages:

• the thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is one of the lowest;
• stone wool remains completely environmentally friendly even when heated;
• the layer of this heat insulator is also an excellent noise-absorbing barrier;
• the level of vapor permeability is very high;

• the material practically does not burn;
• no mechanical loads can deform stone wool or affect its characteristics;
• the material is different long term operation;
• You can purchase stone wool in the form of slabs, which are easily cut into pieces of the required length and attached to the ceiling surface.

Due to the high cost of stone wool, they often try to replace it with mineral wool or glass wool. But such a replacement cannot be called complete, since this affects the quality of insulation quite seriously. Many users claim that the price of the material is quite justified, and provided that the installation technology is followed, it very quickly pays off the incurred costs.

Related article:

Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for roofs. Insulation of the attic roof.

In addition, it is quite possible to carry out all the work on insulating the attic roof from the inside with your own hands. Video instructions can demonstrate the procedure for carrying out the work, and recommendations from specialists will help you avoid common mistakes.

Insulating the attic with ecowool is one of the most effective ways to combat the cold

Ecowool is a pre-crushed material that is first blown into the cracks, and then, using the same method, a layer is placed between the ceiling and the rafters, using a device specially designed for this. This is an expensive procedure, but it allows you to completely eliminate all risks of drafts and ensure the most effective insulation.

Ecowool consists of 80% completely natural material- paper whose properties are very similar to those characteristic of wood. Given its natural origin, ecowool reduces the level of heat loss no less effectively than other materials.

One of the components that is part of ecowool is borax. According to its characteristics, it is an antiseptic of natural origin, which allows it to provide wooden roof elements with effective protection from the formation of fungus and mold.

Ecowool is applied in a thin layer, but at the same time it provides a decent level of not only heat but also sound insulation. The material retains its characteristics even after decades of use. So the not too low cost is the only drawback of this material, which is fully justified by its excellent properties.

Insulating the attic with polyurethane foam: basic technology and material features

Foamed polyurethane foam is the most modern of all the listed methods for insulating an attic. Its main difference is the complete absence of joints or gaps that could become a source of cold air. In addition, the service life of this material is one of the longest, up to 30 years.

Foamed polyurethane foam is not subject to shrinkage, even if the wooden roof of the house begins to gradually deform over time. Its solid structure completely eliminates the risk of moisture absorption, which eliminates the need to install an additional vapor barrier layer.

But there are also aspects that significantly complicate the process of using polyurethane foam as roof insulation from the inside. This primarily concerns the application procedure, which requires complex and expensive equipment. Its purchase is almost never justified, so it is usually rented.

Another aspect is the complex application technology, which requires certain experience in this field and does not allow beginners to independently cope with the task efficiently.

Helpful advice! Perfect option– invite a team of workers who will come with their own equipment and in just a few hours will do high-quality insulation of the attic of your house.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands using penofol

Penofol is a kind of foamed polyethylene - a technology that occupies its niche among the methods of modern insulation of walls and houses. Along with high sound insulation rates, it is also worth noting the fact that penofol has high-quality coating made of aluminum, which can be applied on one or two sides.

Here are a few more arguments in favor of using penofol for attic insulation:

• the material does not pose any threat to human health or the environment;
• its thermal conductivity is extremely low;
• the closed system of air bubbles characteristic of this material serves as an excellent barrier to steam penetration.

This method is also not cheap and requires significant financial investments to implement. But, as practice shows, it is better to spend money once on high-quality material and thereby ensure comfortable living conditions for many years to come.

Combining materials is not at all uncommon. Materials with compatible characteristics can be used together for insulation. For example, mineral wool and polystyrene foam go well together. The first is placed between the rafters, and the second is placed closer to the edge of the roof. This combination will allow you to achieve the desired effect and significantly save on the purchase of materials.

Can provide reliable thermal insulation in combination with other materials

As you can see from the descriptions, each insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages. The only question is to choose the most suitable option, which will satisfy the idea of ​​correspondence between price and quality of the material.

One of the most common mistakes that owners make is a rash choice in favor of the cheapest option for attic insulation. Videos and articles can demonstrate the positive aspects of a particular solution, but the choice must be taken into account all the nuances and characteristics. Attempts to save on thermal insulation material may lead to the fact that after some time of operation, you will have to carry out renovation work or even completely replace all the material.

Insulating the attic from the inside with your own hands: video and stages of work

Each material has its own fastening characteristics and should be used exclusively in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations. But if we talk about the general procedure for carrying out work, then there are mandatory stages that are carried out almost always, regardless of the material chosen.

The first layer of waterproofing material is laid out, which should protect the insulation from the destructive effects of moisture. The film is overlapped so that one layer overlaps the other by 10-15 cm. The material is secured using construction stapler, and the joints are additionally taped with tape.

Then, if necessary, a sheathing is created. For it, you can use wooden slats, the width of which is 8-10 cm. They need to be attached to the rafters, positioned parallel to each other at a distance of 50-60 cm. It is very important to check each element separately using building level. This will prevent any roof defects from occurring in the future.

A heat insulator is placed on the rafters or sheathing and secured in a suitable manner. For example, if we are talking about using any type of cotton wool sold in the form of rolls, then the material is cut into pieces the right size to lay them between the rafters. In this case, the thickness of the insulation should be such as to correspond to the width of the log. It is especially important if you decide to insulate the walls from the inside with mineral wool plus drywall. In this case, all free space must be filled with insulation.

The top layer of this “pie” is a layer of vapor barrier material, which can be used as polyethylene film, glassine or roofing felt. As in the case of waterproofing, the selected material is overlapped. True, in this case it is better to fasten it using thin wooden slats, placing them in increments of 40-50 cm. All joints must be taped.

Helpful advice! If you need to lay several layers of thermal insulation material, you need to lay a vapor barrier film between each of them. This is especially true for cold regions.

As a final step, it remains only to take care of a suitable finishing coating, which can be attached to the sheathing or, in the absence of it, directly to the bars. Consideration should be given to the weight of the decorative panels, since the installation of the heaviest of them may require pre-installation metal profile frame.

The main mistakes made in the process of insulating the attic

The final result of the work, which is done by hand, directly depends on how accurately the technology and all the prescribed rules are followed. It is worth paying particular attention to the procedure for laying the waterproofing layer, since materials that are capable of absorbing moisture subsequently dry out, which often causes cold in the room.

• if the roof slope does not exceed 13°, this will cause precipitation to remain on the surface. The result is rust and leaks. All this can negatively affect the condition of the insulation, so it is important to make sure that the angle of inclination is large enough before starting work;
• installation of thermal insulation material on walls and roof is not all necessary work. It is also necessary to take care of the insulation of windows (according to Swedish technology). To do this, it is best to invite specialists to ensure that leaks are avoided. Especially if it is necessary to install windows at an angle;

• in order to provide the thermal insulation material with ventilation and the ability to dry out if it gets wet, it is advisable to leave a gap of approximately 2-3 cm between the material and the roof;
• it is strictly forbidden to skip at least one of the necessary layers of vapor or waterproofing materials;
• If the thermal insulation material is thicker than the rafters, then their height can be increased by filling additional slats yourself.

These simple recommendations can help in the work process, significantly increasing the quality of insulation. However, if for any reason there are doubts about the strength and experience, it would be better to invite a specialist. Of course, you will have to pay for this, but in this case you will not have to redo everything twice.

Insulating the attic gable from the inside is far from the most difficult task that a home owner may face. Often, owners want to place a balcony on the top floor, the insulation technology of which also has its own characteristics.

As with walls, a wide variety of materials can be used to insulate the ceiling on a balcony, although it is worth noting that loggia insulation technology is often used here, which has not been mentioned before. The step-by-step instructions “Insulating a balcony from the inside with your own hands” will help you understand in detail the features of this process.

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside with mineral wool: video instructions

As clear example It is recommended to watch a training video where the technology of insulating walls from the inside with mineral wool is presented in detail. This will allow you to familiarize yourself in detail with all the nuances and avoid the previously mentioned common mistakes.