If you have at least once been involved in the installation of plasterboard structures on the ceiling, then you probably know how difficult it is to attach plasterboard sheets to the frame even together. There is a whole series of special lifts, which, to a large extent, facilitate the work. But why spend money if you can make a drywall lift with your own hands and spend several times less money?
Lift for drywall ( allowable height- 3.5 m)
Lifts - types, classification, design solutions
Builders-finishers, who constantly perform installation work on plasterboard ceiling structures, know how difficult it is to keep the GKL on weight. At the same time, the sheets need to be fixed. And what is most interesting, in the end, the sheet should lie evenly and beautifully on the ceiling surface, and the fastening should be reliable.
It is almost impossible for one person to perform such manipulations, therefore even professionals constantly take someone as their partner. If you do not have an assistant and even a worthy candidate for this position, then experts recommend purchasing a special drywall lifter. Upon arrival at the specialty store, we recommend that you turn your attention to labels such as Levpano and Roger Mondelin. These are the highest quality and most reliable samples tested in practice.
The main task of the GKL lift is to lift drywall to the place of attachment. Lifts are most in demand when fixing plasterboard ceilings, since only with their help you can press the drywall sheet to the frame as evenly as possible.
Attention! Sheets of drywall on the lift can be kept indefinitely, until you finish installing the entire ceiling structure.
As for the height, there are both mechanical and electric lifts for drywall, so you can always adjust the height of the lift. If you do not have extra money for a drywall lift, then you can design it yourself.
Lifts - types and designs
In general, there are several types of lifts. They are classified according to the types of work performed.
Reference! GKL lifts are not only for ceilings, but also for walls.
If we talk about all types briefly, it turns out something like this:
- wall unit ( from the name it is clear that the device is intended for fastening the GKL to vertical surfaces);
Wall lift
- ceiling lift(designed for fastening GKL on ceiling structures);
ceiling lift
- universal lift(suitable for both ceilings and walls).
To ensure maximum results in production, each type of lift has its own characteristics and individual operating requirements. Simply put, using the lift in your own way, you will not be able to organize the workflow as efficiently as possible, which, in the end, can lead to a breakdown of the unit.
Note! Lifts are made by two methods - at specialized enterprises and in a handicraft way (with your own hands).
We make a lift with our own hands
If you look closely at the drawings, then the drywall spacer lifter does not require any special costs. Let's look at the main fixtures and materials that we may need in our work:
- profiled pipes, with the help of which the proper rigidity of the frame is ensured;
- pipe trimmings do not need to be thrown away - they will be used to make the legs of the future unit;
- do not forget about the wheels - with their help it will be much easier to move the structure;
- if you are a fan of complex structures, then you should stock up on cables and rollers.
Before starting work, you need to acquire a drawing in advance (see photo). Also, do not forget about the correct calculation of the load on the structure, because an incorrect calculation will lead to a breakdown of the unit.
All components of the structure are fastened to each other with bolts. The role of the lifting mechanism is performed by a mechanical device or an electric motor (this is where cables come in handy). If you are building a lift with a "manual" drive, then you need to add "legs" to the design for greater stability.
Making a retainer - as an alternative to a lift
Not all of us have free time to make a lift. After all, if you are working with plasterboard ceiling structures only once every few years, then you do not need to have a bulky device. As an alternative solution, we suggest paying attention to the retainer.
It is much easier (and faster) to make it, and at the same time you will spend money at a minimum.
Here is a short guide:
- You will need a long beam (to the height of your ceiling). The horizontal part of the structure and the width must be at least 90 cm. It turns out that two beams form the letter "T". They are fastened with nails, which, when hammered, need to be drowned a little.
- Now let's start making scarves. They are located between the horizontal and vertical parts of the latch.
Attention! If there is no 90˚ angle between the scarves, then the design of your latch is not suitable for work, since fixing the plasterboard at a slight angle to the ceiling is simply unacceptable.
- Now that the fit is complete and everything is in place, we attach the scarves to the structure with the same nails. As last stage can be called the installation of a retainer at the place of work.
At its core, the latch is an ordinary stand for GKL in a strictly horizontal position. If you are not going to constantly work with drywall, then this design for you - simply irreplaceable!
Summarize
It turns out that the drywall lift consists of only three parts: chassis, turntable And telescopic rack. On average, if you have your own welding machine and locksmith skills, then the final price will be about 3000-4500 rubles (it all depends on the quality of the material used in the construction). As for the assembly time, all work will take about 3-5 days (it all depends on the degree of your employment).
Due to the fact that the text design features device will not be clear to everyone, we have prepared a small gift - a thematic video instruction. We wish you success in your inventions!
Many home craftsmen are not yet convinced of the usefulness of such a device as a drywall lift, and some have not even heard of it. In principle, if the work of installing sheets on the ceiling is done together, then you can do without such a device as a drywall lift, but you will have to make great physical efforts.
Drywall lift
There are situations when there is no assistant nearby and installation must be carried out alone, and then a drywall lift is needed. You can buy ready-made, or you can make a drywall lift with your own hands.
What is it needed for?
Factory models are usually made of metal, they are collapsible, which makes it convenient to carry them in a special case, the most popular manufacturer of such devices is Premos. At home, most often a do-it-yourself lift-strut for drywall is created with your own hands.
Using this device, you can not only install sheets on the ceiling, but also perform marking.
This is done as follows: take laser level(usually its tripod has a small height), fix it with clamps on the lift and raise it to the required height.
Considering that the lifting height of the sheets is 3-4 meters, this will be enough for marking work in almost any room.
It is only necessary to fix the laser level well so that it does not fall during operation, and you can mark the ceiling.
The main purpose of this device is to help in filing the ceiling with large sheets of drywall. With his help this work can be successfully performed without an assistant.
You can firmly lean the sheet exactly where you need it, you can do this as a home-made device, or, for example, using the Premos lift.
To do the work, you must first tilt the frame, lay a sheet of plasterboard on it. Since it is necessary to lift low, one worker can cope with this. Then the frame is transferred to a horizontal position and using a rack and pinion mechanism, you can raise the sheet to the required height.
Availability on support legs wheels allows you to move the device with the sheet to the place you need.
After you have installed the sheet in place and tightened it, it remains to take a screwdriver and secure it securely.
The Premos lift is the most popular, this is due to the fact that its price is small, and the operation scheme is simple, therefore reliable.
Another appointment this device is to facilitate the installation of profiles in places that are difficult to reach.
Using this device, you can fix the perforator, the edge of the roll web when working on the ceiling, it is also convenient to mount massive chandeliers, air ducts, air conditioners, fan coil units and other equipment with it.
How to make a device yourself?
There are several options for making homemade device, it can be wall-mounted, in-line or universal, the Premos company produces the entire list of these products.
The main difference is the type of location of the desktop, in the wall device the table is located vertically, and in the ceiling device it lies in a horizontal plane.
If the lift is universal, then the table can change its angle of inclination and be used for mounting sheets, both on the wall and on the floor, with one of the best options is a Premos product.
It is not difficult to make such a device yourself, the drawing can be found on the Internet, while the price of the lift will be less than when buying a factory product.
The main elements of such a device are:
- chassis, which, due to the presence of wheels, ensures the installation of the device in the right place. It is possible to adjust the position of the sheet during installation;
- telescopic stand, which can change its length;
- spacer table;
- winch.
Once you have decided on the type of construction that you will do with your own hands, you can begin to work.
Lift scheme For the manufacture of supports, you can use wooden bars or a metal profile, which are convenient and easy to work with, and they are inexpensive. Making a winch yourself is quite difficult, so it's easier to buy it in a store.
You can make a device that is designed to work only in a specific room, or you can make a universal lift.
It is clear that the first option is cheaper, and besides, it is easier to convert it to work in another room than to make a universal device. If you are not professionally engaged in the installation of drywall, then the first option will be enough for you.
Work order
Consider how to make the simplest construction step by step yourself:
- When choosing wooden beam, it must be borne in mind that its cross section should not be less than 50 mm, and the height should be equal to the distance from the ceiling to the floor. It will be necessary to have another beam 90-100 cm long. Between themselves, they are connected in the form of the letter "T".
- To ensure stability of the support, it is necessary to make scarves, they are also made of timber. It is necessary to control that the angle is straight, otherwise the device will turn out to be crooked, unstable and unreliable.
- If necessary, the horizontal surface can be expanded, the main thing is that all corners must be straight.
If you know how to work with a welding machine, then you can make a universal lift from metal pipes. To create such a design, you will need a square with a section of 80.60 and 40 mm with a wall thickness of 2 mm, they are inserted into each other like a nesting doll, the table is made of pipes 4x2.5 cm and 3x2 cm.
Racks are made, as in the variant described above, only from a metal square profile, kerchiefs are installed for reinforcement, right angles must be observed. Fastening is done with welding machine. A drum is installed on the largest pipe and a winch is mounted.
Finished lift Now it remains to weld the table, make movable legs and assemble the entire structure. The best thing individual elements fasten together with bolts, which will allow you to disassemble the lift, this facilitates its transportation.
Prices for materials and lifts
Below is a table of the cost of materials that are needed to create a lift.
If you do not have the time, desire or ability to make such a device yourself, you can purchase ready-made models. In the table below you can see the prices of finished lifts.
In any case, you will purchase a ready-made hoist for drywall sheets or make it yourself, this will greatly facilitate and speed up the process of installing the plasterboard on the ceiling.
Hello everybody! If you have encountered such a problem as the installation of drywall sheets on the ceiling, and since this procedure is very difficult without an assistant, then you may be interested in this topic. So I had to solve this problem. The solution is quite simple - homemade lift drywall sheets. This lift is easy to manufacture, easy to disassemble for transportation, weight less than 20 kg. This homemade product can be made by almost anyone with a minimum of tools and available material.
For manufacturing you will need:
Welding machine
Bulgarian
Drill or screwdriver
Drill
Keys
Hand tool
Sandpaper
Paint, brush
Profile pipe (20*20, 20*40, 25*50)
Power window drive VAZ “classic”
Bolts and nuts - M10 and M6
furniture wheels
Steel wire 4 mm
A piece of pipe half an inch and a steel rod along the inside diameter of the pipe
Iron sheet 2 mm
At the initial stage, the question arose of what to make lifting mechanism. On the Internet there were many options with different winches, ratchet mechanisms etc. but all of them are bulky and difficult to perform or expensive.
Quite by accident, a mechanism from a manual window regulator of a domestic VAZ “classic” car turned out to be at hand. This mechanism is compact, inexpensive and, most importantly, has an automatic lock, namely, if you do not rotate the gear knob, the shaft with the cable remains locked, and when rotated in any direction, the lock is turned off - this is just what you need. But a little modification was still required. The essence of the alteration is that the standard mounting bolts are very short and unreliable.
For alteration, it was necessary to drill two fasteners and install bolts with a diameter of 6 mm desired length and fix with nuts to preserve the integrity of the mechanism body.
Next, I cut out a plate from sheet iron for mounting the lifting mechanism. The dimensions of the plate are approximately 11 by 8 cm and at least 2 mm thick.
I drilled two mounting holes and connected the plate to the gearbox with two nuts.
As you can see in the photo, the cutout made in the center serves for a tighter fit of the plate to the mechanism.
Next, I took a profile pipe 50 * 25 * 1.5 mm 155 cm long, which will be the main stand of the lift. Stepping back from the edge of the rack 25 cm, fixed the lifting mechanism with mounting plate by welding.
I decided to make the rack with removable and adjustable struts. To do this, cut out profile pipe 50 * 25 four pieces 11 cm long.
I drilled two holes with a diameter of 11 mm in each segment on one narrow side, stepping back from the edges by about 2 cm.
Installed 10 mm bolts with nuts in drilled holes, for centering and welded nuts to the profile. At this stage, I want to make an amendment - in this case, one hole with a nut on each segment of the profile will be enough. This was confirmed in practice after the complete assembly of the lift.
I welded two parallel guides for longer racks to the bottom of the rack, and welded the remaining two pieces of pipe perpendicularly above these guides. All this looks, to put it mildly, not aesthetically pleasing, but it makes it possible to adjust the distance of the spacers for each separately.
The spacers themselves were made from a profile pipe 20 * 40 * 1.5 mm. The spacers that will be located along the width of the sheet are enough sections of the profile pipe of 50 cm each, in my case 60 cm. For spacers along the length of the sheet, 70 cm long pipes are enough, I have 90 cm. Since the lift was made without any drawings and calculations and in this case, more is better than less, and it is easier to make a short one from a long pipe than vice versa.
Since the guides for the struts are at different levels, I welded pipe sections of the appropriate height to the struts of the upper level to align.
For the convenience of positioning drywall sheets, the lifter equipped with furniture wheels, which he screwed into nuts welded at the ends of the spacers to pre-drilled holes.
Further, for the operation of the retractable, telescopic mechanism, it also required a rotating fulcrum. This support consists of a roller for the cable from the power window mechanism, a dozen bolt with short thread nuts and a mounting plate with a thickness of at least 2 mm. All this is assembled into one whole as in the photo. During assembly, I lubricated the bolt and the inner hole of the roller with automotive grease (lithol).
I cut a small groove in the upper part of the rack, into which a roller with a cable should partially enter to lift the inner pipe. The inner tube 20*40 has a length of 170 cm.
The plate with the roller is fastened by welding, but you must first install the inner pipe, which should not come into contact with the roller, and the gap between them should be minimal. This will reduce the play between the pipes.
In the inner tube, stepping back from the lower edge of 35 cm (the indent serves to prevent the complete departure of the inner tube when lifting), I drilled a hole with a diameter of 5 mm for the cable. I passed the cable from the power window through the hole inside the pipe, made a loop at the end of the cable and additionally clamped it with a bolt so that the cable could not be pulled back through the hole.
All retractable rack is ready.
This required three pieces of a half-inch pipe of 7 cm, a steel rod of 25 cm of suitable diameter, which fits snugly into the inside of the pipe segments. Two plates for the gap between the parts, a piece of a 25 * 50 profile pipe that will be put on a retractable rack and a main 25 * 50 profile pipe 80 cm long for a drywall sheet holder. The assembly process can be seen from the photo.
I divided the main pipe with jumpers at the ends and, stepping back from the edges of the pipe by 20 cm, drilled holes in the center, installed pieces of nails inside the pipe and fixed them by welding. This is done to eliminate the backlash of the two inner pipes 20 * 20 80 cm long, which will move inside. For fixing internal profiles on outer pipe along the edges I welded nuts onto pre-drilled holes, as described earlier. Similarly, I divided it with jumpers and welded the nuts to two segments of a 10 cm long profile pipe 25 * 50. Pipes 20 * 20 55 cm long will be fixed inside these profiles, all connections are independently adjustable.
After the assembly was completed, the profile pipes were cleaned sandpaper and painted with metal primer.
When assembled, it turned out as in the photo.
When carrying out wall cladding, and especially ceilings, with drywall, it is difficult to lift and hold fragments of material at a height, since its sheets have a weight of 7 to 9.5 kg. For this, a special mechanism is needed - a drywall lift. To purchase finished fixture, you need to know how to choose it, since making it yourself is possible only with certain skills.
Drywall lifter: main functions
the main task devices - to facilitate the work of the master when sheathing the ceiling with large sheets of plasterboard. With it, he can cope with the workflow alone, without an assistant, even if it is required to build a multi-level plasterboard ceiling. Considering that the lift lifts the sheets to a height of up to 4.5 meters, this is quite enough for medium and high rooms.
The design consists of a rack placed on supports, a special bar extends from it to the desired height. At the top is a fixed winch assembly (automatic or mechanical). In order to put drywall sheets edge, on the retractable part there is a swivel frame with latches. The principle of operation in most cases is based on a cable transmission.
However, this is not the only purpose homemade mechanism can help with other important work:
- by installing a laser level on it, there is the possibility of accurate, high-quality marking of the ceiling, corners;
- the lift is used to lift air conditioners, ventilation ducts, heavy chandeliers;
- the device helps with the installation of a frame made of metal profiles under the plasterboard in hard-to-reach places - it securely fixes the parts while they are being fixed.
In addition, using a lift, you can raise rolled covers and fix a puncher on it, which is extremely convenient when working at heights.
Thereby simple device it is possible to calmly fix the material without much difficulty, in addition, installation time is significantly saved.
Types of fixtures
The specific use depends on the type of structure.
There are three main types:
- Elevator with a vertically installed stand, designed for the assembly of wall coverings and partition cladding.
- Ceiling mechanism with a vertical table for fixing drywall to the ceiling.
- Universal design "Premos". It allows you to single-handedly assemble drywall for both walls and ceilings. If necessary, you can change the angle of inclination using the turntable.
The factory mechanism has the following advantages:
- With simple control one person can do it;
- the structure is not exposed to dust and pollution;
- lifts GKL plates at different angles, vertically and horizontally;
- the mechanism is prefabricated, has a small weight, in a compact form it is easy to transport.
If it is necessary to cover a small room, the device is folded, due to which the bearing area is reduced. At the same time, the supports are adjustable, so the use is relevant on an uneven floor base.
In some cases, a spacer lift is used. It is a structure consisting of two telescopic tubes, a rod for lifting, as well as a clamp and stops made of rubberized polymer. To disable the fixation of the rod, the equipment is equipped with a lever. The spacer allows you to hold drywall boards vertically. Among the advantages of the structure, one can single out low weight, a movable base, the ability to work with walls and ceilings.
The scope of the conventional design is living rooms , production shops, balconies and corridors. It is recommended to use this model with a ceiling height of more than 3 meters.
How to choose?
picking up the right technique, it always makes sense to familiarize yourself with the capabilities of the equipment.
The following criteria come first:
- the weight with which the mechanism works, it can be from 30 to 50 kg;
- given the size of the ceilings, you should ask what height the drywall sheets are delivered to.
You need to know that such devices work only for lifting and cannot move loads.
The strength and solidity of the structure itself are important:
- parts of the internal mechanism and components must be made of strong and durable materials, so it is always better to choose models made of steel without polymer additions;
- a reliable configuration of the base is a guarantee of the stability of the lift, in this respect the stand in the form of the letter “H” is considered the most worthy.
Inexpensive models that lift drywall above 4 meters may well be suitable for ordinary housing. If it is required to fix the coating in hard-to-reach areas, it is provided different direction fasteners, and the best option will become a lift-strut. He has more complex structure and thanks to this it can be configured for diverse tasks. True, such functional models are much more expensive than standard ones.
In addition, you need to take into account auxiliary options that are not always needed when mounting the GKL. But if they are available, the price of the device increases significantly.
Since there are manual and electric models, it makes sense to choose electrical equipment for large amounts of work. It helps to increase assembly speed, but at the same time it costs more. According to professionals, for irregular construction works it is better to choose manual structures, especially since they do not fail so often.
Self-manufacturing
On average, standard lifting equipment costs about 15 thousand rubles, and many prefer to assemble the device with their own hands. However, this will require detailed drawings, on the basis of which it is really possible to mount any type of lift at home. Also, in addition to metal profiles, you will have to purchase a winch and fasteners.
Professionals advise making a one-time option, which can later be easily adapted to other rooms. On the other hand, you can also make a reusable design yourself, which will be suitable for different heights of rooms.
A carefully drawn up scheme is the key to a high-quality assembly of the lift, because it is on it that you will have to mount the supports from metal profiles and other work.
Mounting process:
- The bases are made from metal profile 6x6 cm in size. A pair of segments is supplied with turntables, the third profile is fixed to the rack using a welding machine. For ease of movement, the structure is equipped with rollers or wheels.
- For greater stability, three or four pipes are welded in the form of sawn legs.
- A telescopic tripod or tripod is made of three cut profiles with cross-sectional dimensions of 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 cm. To insert the stoppers, they are perforated, which must match. The bar is fixed on the rack.
- The top of the tripod is equipped with clamps for quick attachment of the stand. A metal "H" shaped frame is welded on the top of the tripod for further mounting of the retractable device.
- The table is placed on the platform, side supports are additionally mounted, increasing the rigidity of the structure. Lastly, the winch, blocks and cables are attached.
This wall material alone is quite problematic - its weight is to blame. Like it or not, it is impossible to raise it to a height, set it in the right position and even fix a sheet weighing 30 kg with at least a dozen self-tapping screws by the efforts of one person. To help such desperate workaholics, a drywall lift was created, which will be discussed in this article. Together with the site, we will study its design and capabilities, and also consider options for its self-production.
The principle of operation of the drywall lift photo
Drywall lift: principle of operation, main components and mechanisms
In fact, a drywall lifting mechanism can be called a type of jack that can lift drywall to a great height - these modern devices allow you to mount ceilings at a height of up to 4.5 m alone.
If we deal in detail with the design of such lifts, then this mechanism can be divided into four main parts.
- Roller base - as a rule, this is a tripod with wheels, which allows you to move the device empty and loaded with drywall to any distance and in any direction. This does not mean that the drywall lift can be used as a transporter of large loads - it is designed to handle weights up to 50kg and not a gram more. So if you do not want to break your new assistant, use it for its intended purpose and do not carry more than one sheet.
- Telescopic tripod. It is thanks to him that it becomes possible to raise drywall to a height. In most cases, the tripod has two knees made in the form of tubes.
- The lifting winch is in almost all cases manual. By rotating the lifting winch knob, you can easily extend and retract the upper knee of the telescope.
- Cargo area. As a rule, it is a hollow tubular frame, made in the form of the letter "H", which supports the drywall sheet over the entire plane. Some models of lifts are equipped with a sliding platform for cargo, which allows it to be used for lifting both whole sheets of drywall and its segments. The most interesting thing is that such a platform almost always has a tilt function. This is done for convenience and expansion of the mechanism. The slope of the site allows you to lift drywall from a standing position on the end. This facilitates the work, because a person practically does not need to strain even in order to fix the plaster on the site. In addition, such a tilt-and-turn design of the platform allows using a lifting mechanism to sheathe not only ceilings, but also walls at a great height.
Drywall lift photo
In addition to the main parts described above, without which the drywall spacer lift cannot function normally, they are equipped with additional devices. These include the following.
- Platform for work. As a rule, it is mounted on a roller tripod - it allows you to refuse to use a ladder or goats.
- Electric drive. Such a lift is the dream of every drywall worker. It is controlled from the remote remote control. The operator of the device only needs to move the lift to the right place and fix the plaster on the site - all the rest is done by electric motors.
Lift for mounting drywall photo
As you can see, the device for lifting drywall is not particularly difficult - unless, of course, we talk about manual control lift. The whole snag lies elsewhere - not every master is ready to fork out and purchase similar device. It is much easier and cheaper to get a helper. But here, too, a person can fail - it is not so easy to find intelligent apprentices. Therefore, nothing else remains but to fork out and mechanize their work. There is another option - you can make a drywall lift with your own hands. This will not only be cheaper, but will also be an interesting activity while waiting for a new order.
Lift spacer for drywall photo
How to make your own drywall lift
As mentioned above, the drywall lifting mechanism consists of four main mechanisms - they will have to be assembled separately and subsequently combined into one product. Let's make a reservation right away, a drywall worker is like a migratory bird - today he is here, and tomorrow there, therefore, it is necessary to make a lift with the expectation of convenient transportation. Each of its parts must be removable or at least foldable. So, let's start, we will act in order.
- Tripod. Perhaps this is the easiest part to make (if you have no problems with). In essence, you will need to make a fixture for attaching a telescopic tripod and weld three or four legs equipped with wheels with stoppers to it. If we analyze this issue in detail, then here we need a reference to the size of the tripod - it is more expedient to make its base from a profile pipe measuring 80 by 80 mm. Therefore, the support for it should be a little wider (it is difficult to pick up a pipe for such a caliber). Most likely, the rectangle into which the tripod will be inserted will also have to be welded from two corners - fitting them to the required section is quite simple, here the grinder solves all the problems. When the support is ready, we weld the legs on all its four sides, which it is desirable to equip with braces for rigidity. It is still the foundation, and all the burden falls on it. By the way, about compactness. You can think of a mechanism that allows you to detach or fold the tripod legs.
How to make a drywall lift with your own hands photo
- Now telescopic tripod. There is nothing complicated here either - you will need three pieces of a profile pipe. The lower one, as mentioned above, has a section of 80 by 80 mm, the middle one is 60 by 60 mm in size and the upper (shortest) 40 by 40 mm. The pipes are inserted into each other - so that they do not fall down, they will need to be drowned out on one side. At the very top of the telescope, at the end of its thin tube, you need to make a mount for the turntable - here you can go the same way as when connecting a tripod to a tripod.
- Rotary table. To begin with, we boil out the letter “H” - but we make it in such a way that the middle jumper has a through passage. Subsequently, retractable supports will be inserted into it from both sides, which will ensure that the drywall does not break from bending. They will need to be dealt with after you deal with the letter "H". The props are the letter “T” with an elongated vertical leg - to ensure the rigidity of these retractable props in the tube into which they will be inserted, a hole should be drilled, a nut welded over it and a bolt screwed into it (it will act as a retainer). Now, in order to finally solve the question of how to make a drywall lift, all that remains is to come up with a tilt-and-turn mechanism. Alternatively, you can stop only on an inclined one, and turn the drywall along with the entire lift. The easiest way to tilt the platform is to weld a piece of pipe to it and use a stud or bolt to connect it to the fork mounted on top of the telescope. This method is simple, but in operation such a mechanism will not be very convenient - with its help it will take a lot of effort to tilt and at the same time fix the table in the required position. It is better to think over some kind of quick-clamping mechanism - for example, an eccentric, similar to how it is installed on the casing for its quick rotation.
Homemade drywall lift photo
- The last part, the manufacture of which involves a homemade drywall lift, is a winch. You need to buy it and adapt it to your needs. By the way, you will have to make a mount for it - as a rule, this is a remote beam with a brace. It is also better to make it collapsible, and all parts must be bolted together.
This is how things are with the device for lifting and transporting drywall. As you can see, this mechanism is simple, and it is quite possible to make it yourself. In my practice, I had to meet people who managed to assemble a drywall lift right at the work site from improvised trash - everything went in, but mostly old door frames. The view of such a lift, of course, is unsightly, but it performed its function perfectly!
