I'm building a model that simulates a real mini jet engine, even if my version is electric. In fact, everything is simple and anyone can build a jet engine with their own hands at home.

The way I designed and built a homemade jet engine is not... The best way do it. I can imagine a million ways and schemes how to create best model, more realistic, more reliable and easier to manufacture. But now I've put together one.

Main parts of model jet engine:

Engine direct current strong enough and at least 12 volts
A DC source of at least 12 volts (depending on what kind of DC motor you have).
A rheostat, the same one sold for adjusting the brightness of light bulbs.
A gearbox with a flywheel is found in many car toys. It's best if the gear housing is made of metal because plastic can melt at such high speeds.
A sheet of metal that can be cut to make fan blades.
Ammeter or voltmeter.
Potentiometer at approximately 50K.
Electromagnet coil from a solenoid or any other source.
4 diodes.
2 or 4 permanent magnet.
Cardboard to assemble a body similar to a jet engine body.
Filler for car bodies, to create an exterior.
Rigid wire to support everything. I usually use wires from cheap hangers. They are strong enough and flexible enough to be molded into the desired shape.
Glue. I prefer hot glue for most parts, but pretty much any glue will do for now.
White, silver and black paint.

Step 1: Attach the DC Motor to the Transmission Flywheel

The basis of my jet engine model is very simple. Connect the DC motor to the gearbox. The idea is that the motor drives the part of the gearbox that was attached to the wheels toy car. Place the plastic lever so it hits the small flywheel gear and it makes noise. Some transmissions are already equipped with this device, and some are not.

Step 2: Connect the magnets and the sensor coil

Place 2 or 4 permanent magnets on the main shaft so that the coil can be near them when they rotate. Place them so that the polarity pattern is - + - +. The idea is that the magnets will pass close to the coil and generate a small amount of current, which we will use to move the sensor. But for this to work you need to put 4 diodes in a bridge configuration to convert alternating current, which we generate, into a constant.

Google "diode bridge" to find more information about it. Also, to calibrate the sensor to the desired sensitivity, you need to place a potentiometer between the coil and the sensor.

Step 3: Rheostat for speed control

We need to control the engine speed. To do this, place a rheostat between the outlet and the power source. If you don't know how to do this, Google how to connect a rheostat to light bulbs. But instead of a light bulb we will put a power supply.

Don't try this unless you are 100% sure. We are dealing with a large current and using an inappropriate power source can damage it. The simpler the power supply, the better. The alternative is to find a DC rheostat so that we can control the voltage after power is applied. I couldn't find one in any store, so I use a rheostat for light bulbs. But if you can find one that will work with a DC motor, then go for it. The idea is to simply control how much current is supplied to the motor, so this will be our inductor.

Step 4: Fan

You can make the fan the way you want. I cut each blade from thin metal sheet and glued them together. You can make them from cardboard and then paint them. Or, if you have access to a 3D printer, you can 3D print a fan. www.thingiverse.com has some great 3D models of fans.

Step 5: Body

You can make the body out of cardboard and then add external filler to give it shape. You'll have to do a lot of sanding, so it's hard and messy work. Once everything is smooth, paint the body with gloss white paint.

The inside of the engine should be painted black. The front of the engine usually has a silver edge that you can paint on if you wish.

Step 6: Starter Mechanism

The starter and fuel handles are mechanically connected. The starter has a switch that connects the engine to the power source. This switch can also be activated by the fuel control lever when it is in the operating position.

The starter spring must be loaded such that it wants to return to its normal position and will only lock the starting position if the fuel control lever is in the disengaged position.

The idea is that the starter will remain in the original position until you move the fuel lever to the run position, and the fuel control lever will now hold the switch engaged. Also the fuel lever is part of the rheostat base. The rheostat must be installed in such a way that it is possible to rotate not only the part of the handle that is supposed to rotate, but also the entire base of the rheostat. This base is what the fuel control moves to increase speed when it is in the running position. This is difficult to explain and therefore to better understand the concept you should watch the third part of the video.

Definition and technical description.

* - automatic translation of part of the book.

It's a curiolls fact that you won't find the term "turbine" in most physics books.

The turbine jet produces axial pressure, accelerating the mass of air. When air masses are accelerated in a flow they create thrust. Forces are measured in Newtons, not kilograms and grams! A force of 1 Newton (denoted by the letter N) acts when a mass of 1 kg accelerates or decelerates by 1 m/s. The change in speed over a period of time is defined as acceleration and is measured in m/s.

In the encyclopedia, in the “turbine” section, it is written: “A POWERFUL ENGINE in which the energy of a moving medium
(water, steam, gas) is converted into useful energy; another name is turbojet engine.
The predecessors were windmills and water wheels, Specialist technical books on this subject explain the various tour escapes in some detail under the main heading jet engine jet.

In Dubbel Engineering you will find the definition: "a gas turbine is a machine that uses heat to transfer mechanical energy (shaft power) or thrust (for example, aircraft engines)", accordingly, the term gas turbines is a general term for all types of Turbo Jet engines.
Jet turbines and turboprop engines. They are all considered “gas turbines; from aircraft modeling systems such as JPX. F.D. micro turbines.
Turbomin and Pegasus, as well as KJ-66, .1-66 and TK-50 turbocharged engines featured in this book, and including
ING any such type of engine that either currently exists or has not yet been invented. They are all “gas turbines” to create thrust!

In fact, an alternative and more appropriate name for such devices is aircraft model engines with turbocharged air jets. I prefer the term that is often used by specialists: “jet turbines”, some people call them jet engines.
As you can see, we already have more than enough definition at our disposal. There is no need to come up with any new definitions. Unfortunately. technical experts they do not always speak a language that is logically correct and clear. Of course, to aid the understanding of readers who do not have specialized knowledge, it is necessary to always indicate what exactly is meant by the word wrbines. This turbojet engine drawings.

Not a big example, the engine draws in air at a speed of 0.25 kg/second and accelerates it at the same time to a speed of 400 m/s static axial pressure - 100 N *

Download drawings of an aircraft model turbojet engine.

Example of a page with drawings.

In the vastness of the World Wide Web you can find many forums and discussions that relate to this type of engine. However, before this it was impossible to find Russian-language instructions for making a pulsating air-breathing engine, since exclusively all videos and text materials were in English. Fortunately, our long search was crowned with success, and we present to you a material in which we review a Russian-language video on the manufacture of the Reinst engine.

We present to your attention a video from the author

What do we need for assembly:
- glass jar 400 ml;
- a can of condensed milk;
- copper wire;
- alcohol;
- scissors;
- compass;
- pliers;
- dremel;
- paper;
- pencil.

Let us immediately note that we only need a side tin from a can of condensed milk. Let us also clarify that if you don’t have a Dremel at hand, you can use a regular awl, since we need a hole with a small diameter. You can start assembling the engine.

First, we do it in the lid from glass jar hole with a diameter of approximately 12 mm. Why approximately? The fact is that there are simply no exact formulas for assembling such an engine.

After this we need to roll up the diffuser. To do this, take paper and draw a template on it, as shown in the figure below. You need to draw the template with a compass. Measure as follows: the near radius from the middle is approximately 6 cm, the far radius is 10.5 cm. After this, we measure 6 cm from the resulting sector. At the near radius, we cut it off.

We apply the resulting template to a tin from a can of condensed milk and trace it.

After this, we cut out the resulting part with scissors.

We bend it a millimeter from the two edges in different directions.

Now we form a cone and hook the bent parts together.

Our diffuser is ready.

Now we drill holes on four sides on the narrow part of the diffuser.

We do the same on the lid around the central hole.

Now, using wire, we hang our diffuser under the hole on the lid. The distance from the top edge should be approximately 5-7 mm.

The most difficult thing to manufacture and the most important for the operation of the turbine is the compressor stage. It usually requires precision CNC machining tools or manual drive. Luckily, the compressor operates at low temperatures and can be 3D printed.

Another thing that is usually very difficult to replicate at home is what is called a "nozzle vane" or simply NGV. Through trial and error, the author found a way to do this without using welding machine or other exotic instruments.

What you will need:
1) 3D printer capable of working with PLA filament. If you have an expensive one like an Ultimaker that's great, but a cheaper one like a Prusa Anet will work too;
2) You must have enough PLA to print all the parts. ABS is not suitable for this project as it is too soft. You can probably use PETG, but this has not been tested, so do so at your own risk;
3) Can appropriate size (diameter 100 mm, length 145 mm). Preferably the jar should have a removable lid. You can use a regular jar (say, pineapple chunks), but then you'll need to make a metal lid for it;
4) Galvanized iron sheet. A thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal. You can choose a different thickness, but you may have difficulty bending or sanding, so be prepared. In any case, you will need at least a short strip of galvanized iron 0.5 mm thick to make a spacer for the turbine casing. 2 pieces will do. Size 200 x 30 mm;
5) Leaf of stainless steel for the manufacture of turbine wheel, NGV wheel and turbine casing. Again, a thickness of 0.5 mm is optimal.
6) Solid steel rod for making turbine shaft. Beware: mild steel just doesn't work here. You will need at least some carbon steel. Hard alloys will be even better. The shaft diameter is 6 mm. You can choose a different diameter, but then you will need to find suitable materials for making a hub;
7) 2 pcs. 6x22 bearings 626zz;
8) 1/2" pipes 150 mm long and two end fittings;
9) drilling machine;
10) Sharpener
11) Dremel (or something similar)
12) Metal hacksaw, pliers, screwdriver, M6 die, scissors, vice, etc.;
13) a piece of copper or stainless steel pipe for spraying fuel;
14) A set of bolts, nuts, clamps, vinyl tubes and other things;
15) propane or butane torch

If you want to start the engine, you will also need:

16) Propane tank. There are gasoline or kerosene engines, but getting them to run on these fuels is a bit difficult. It's better to start with propane and then decide if you want to switch to liquid fuel or if you're already happy gas fuel;
17) A pressure gauge capable of measuring pressure of several mm of water.
18) Digital tachometer for measuring turbine speed
19) Starter. To start a jet engine you can use:
Fan (100 W or more). Better centrifugal)
electric motor (100W or more, 15000rpm; you can use your Dremel here).

Making a hub

The hub will be made from:
1/2" pipe 150 mm long;
two 1/2" hose fittings;
and two bearings 626zz;
Using a hacksaw, cut off the herringbones from the fittings, and use a drill bit to enlarge the remaining holes. Insert the bearings into the nuts and screw the nuts onto the pipe. The hub is ready.

Making a shaft

Theory (and experience to some extent) says that it makes no difference whether you make a shaft from mild steel, hard steel or stainless steel. So choose the one that is more accessible to you.

If you expect to get decent thrust from the turbine, it is better to use a steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm (or larger). However, at the time of writing, the shaft was only 6 mm.

Cut an M6 thread on one side to a length of 35 mm. Next, you need to cut the thread from the other end of the rod so that when the rod is inserted into the hub (the bearings rest against the end of the pipe are tightened using the nuts that you made from hose fittings) and when the lock nuts are screwed to the end of the thread on both sides, between the nuts and bearings leave a small gap. This is a very complicated procedure. If the thread is too short and the longitudinal play is too large, you can cut the thread a little further. But if the thread seems too long (and there is no longitudinal play at all), it will be impossible to fix it.

As an option - shafts from laser printer, they are exactly 6mm in diameter. Their disadvantage is that their limit is 20-25000 rpm. If you want higher speeds, use thicker rods.

3D printing of turbine wheel and NGV dies

For the manufacture of a turbine wheel, or rather its blades, press dies are used.
The shape of the blade becomes smoother if you press the blade not to the final shape in one step (pass), but to some intermediate shape (1st pass) and only then to the final shape (2nd pass). Therefore, there is an STL for both types of press dies. For the 1st pass and for the second.

Here are the STL matrix files for the NGV wheel and the STL files for the turbine wheel matrices:

Manufacturing of impellers

This design uses 2 types of steel wheels. Namely: turbine wheel and NGV wheel. Stainless steel is used for their manufacture. If they were made of lightweight or galvanized material, they would barely be enough to show how the engine works.

You can cut the discs out of sheet metal and then drill a hole in the center, but most likely you won't hit the center. Therefore, drill a hole in a sheet of metal, and then glue the paper template so that the hole in the metal and the hole in the paper template coincide. Cut the metal according to the template.

Drill auxiliary holes. (Note that the center holes should already be drilled. Also note that the turbine wheel only has a center hole.)

It's also a good idea to leave a little allowance when cutting the metal and then sharpen the edge of the discs using a drill press and a sharpener.
At this point it may be better to make several backup drives. It will become clear why later.

Blade formation

Sliced discs are difficult to fit into the molding die. Use pliers to turn the blades slightly. Discs with pre-twisted blades are much easier to form with dies. Place the disk between the halves of the press and squeeze it in a vice. If the dies were pre-lubricated with machine oil, everything will go much easier.

The vice is a fairly weak press, so you'll likely need to hit the assembly with a hammer to compress it further. Use several wooden pads to avoid breaking the plastic dies.

Two-step shaping (using 1st pass matrices and 2nd pass matrices to finalize the shape) gives definitely better results.

Making a support

The document file with the template for the support is here:

Cut the part from a sheet of stainless steel, drill the necessary holes and bend the part as shown in the photographs.

Making a set of metal spacers

If you had lathe, you can make all the spacers on it. Another way to do this is to cut several flat disks from a sheet of metal, stack them on top of each other, and bolt them tightly together to create a three-dimensional piece.

Use a 1mm thick mild (or galvanized) steel sheet here.

Documents with templates for spacers are here:

You will need 2 small disks and 12 large ones. The quantity is given for a sheet of metal 1 mm thick. If you use a thinner or thicker one, you will need to adjust the number of discs to get the correct overall thickness.
Cut the discs and drill holes. Grind discs of the same diameter as described above.

Support washer

Since the backing washer holds the entire NGV assembly, you must use thicker material here. You can use a suitable steel washer or sheet (black) of at least 2mm thickness.

Template for support washer:

Assembling the NGV Interior

You now have all the parts to assemble the NGV. Install them onto the hub as shown in the photos.

The turbine needs some pressure to operate properly. And in order to prevent the free spread of hot gases, we need a so-called “turbine casing”. Otherwise, the gases will lose pressure immediately after passing through the NGV. For proper functioning, the casing must match the turbine + a small gap. Since our turbine wheel and NGV wheel are the same diameter, we need something to provide the necessary clearance. This something is a turbine casing spacer. It's simply a strip of metal that wraps around the NGV wheel. The thickness of this sheet determines the size of the gap. Use 0.5mm here.

Simply cut a strip 10 mm wide and 214 mm long from a sheet of any steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm.

The turbine casing itself will be a piece of metal, the diameter of the NGV wheel. Or better yet, a couple of pieces. Here you have more freedom in choosing the thickness. The casing is not just a strip because it has attachment tabs.

The documentation file with the template for the turbine casing is here:

Place the shroud spacer onto the NGV blades. Secure with steel wire. Find a way to secure the spacer so it doesn't move when the wire is removed. You can use soldering.

Then remove the wire and screw the turbine casing onto the spacer. Use the wire again to wrap tightly.

Do as shown in the photos. The only connection between the NGV and the hub is three M3 screws. This limits the heat flow from the hot NGV to the cold hub and prevents the bearings from overheating.

Check if the turbine can rotate freely. If not, align the NGV housing by changing the position of the adjusting nuts on the three M3 screws. Adjust the tilt of the NGV until the turbine can rotate freely.

Making a combustion chamber

Paste this template over the metal sheet. Drill holes and cut the shape. There is no need to use stainless steel here. Roll into a cone. To prevent it from unfolding, bend it.
The front of the camera is here:

Use this template again to make a cone. Use a chisel to make wedge slits and then roll into a cone. Secure the cone with a bend. Both parts are held together only by friction from the engine. Therefore, you don’t need to think about how to secure them at this stage.

Working wheel

The impeller consists of two parts:
disk with blades and casing

This is a Kurt Schreckling impeller that has been heavily modified by me to be more tolerant of longitudinal movement. Note the labyrinth that prevents air from returning due to back pressure. Print both parts and glue the cover onto the disc with the blades. Good results can be obtained using acrylic epoxy resin.

Compressor stator (diffuser)

This part has a very complex shape. And when other parts can (at least in theory) be made without the use of precision equipment, this is impossible. To make matters worse, this part has the greatest impact on the compressor's efficiency. This means that whether the entire engine will work or not is highly dependent on the quality and precision of the diffuser. That's why don't even try to do it manually. Do this on the printer.

For ease of 3D printing, the compressor stator is divided into several parts. Here are the STL files:

3D print and assemble as shown in the photos. Please note that the nut is pipe thread The 1/2" should be attached to the central compressor stator housing. This is used to hold the bushing in place. The nut is secured with 3 M3 screws.
Template for where to drill holes in the nut:

Also pay attention to the heat protection cone made of aluminum foil. It is used to prevent PLA parts from softening due to thermal radiation from the combustion liner. You can use any beer can as a source of aluminum foil here.

You will need a tin can that is 145mm long and 100mm in diameter. It's better if you can use a jar with a lid. Otherwise you will need to install the NGV with the hub in the bottom of the tin and you will have additional problems assembling the engine for servicing.

Cut off one bottom of the tin can. In another bottom (or better in the lid) cut round hole 52 mm. Then cut its edge into sectors as shown in the photographs.

Insert the NGV assembly into the hole. Wrap the sectors tightly with steel wire.

Make a ring out of copper tube(outer diameter 6 mm, inner diameter 3.7 mm). Or better you can use stainless steel tubes. The fuel ring should fit snugly against the internal components of your canner. Solder it.
Drill the fuel injectors. These are just 16 pieces of 0.5 mm holes, evenly distributed around the ring. The direction of the holes should be perpendicular to the air flow. Those. need to drill holes in inside rings.

Please note that the presence of so-called "hot spots" in the engine exhaust depends almost exclusively on the quality of the fuel ring. Dirty or uneven bores and you'll end up with an engine that simply destroys itself when you try to start it. The presence of hot spots depends much less on the quality of the liner than others try to say. But the fuel ring is very important.

Check the quality of fuel spray by igniting it. The flames should be equal to each other.

Once completed, install the fuel injector into the can body.

All you have to do at this stage is put all the pieces together. If things go well, this won't be a problem.

Seal the lid of the can with a heat-resistant sealant; you can use silicate glue with a heat-resistant filler. You can use graphite dust, steel powder and so on.

After the engine is assembled, check that the rotor rotates freely. If so, do a preliminary fire test. Use some one enough powerful fan to blow out the air intake or simply rotate the shaft with a dremel. Lightly turn on the fuel and ignite the flow at the rear of the engine. Adjust the rotation to allow the flame to enter the combustion chamber.

NOTE: At this stage you are not trying to start the engine! The only purpose of a fire test is to heat it up and see if it behaves well or not. At this point, you can use a butane cylinder, which is usually used for hand torches. If everything is fine you can move on to the next step. However, it is better to seal the engine with oven sealant (or silicate glue filled with a small amount of heat-resistant powder).

You can start the engine either by blowing air into it or by rotating its shaft with some kind of starter.
Be prepared to burn a few NGV drives (and possibly turbines) when attempting to start. (This is why it was recommended in step 4 to make some backups.) Once you get comfortable with the engine, you should be able to start it at any time without any problems.

Please note that the engine may currently serve primarily educational and entertainment purposes. But this is a fully functional turbojet engine, capable of spinning to any desired speed (including self-destructive speed). Feel free to improve and modify the design to suit your purposes. First of all, you will need a thicker shaft to achieve higher RPM and therefore traction. The second thing to try is to wrap the outside of the engine metal pipe- fuel line and use it as an evaporator for liquid fuel. This is where the hot wall motor design comes in handy. Another thing to think about is the lubrication system. In the simplest case, this might take the form of a small bottle with a small amount of oil and two pipes - one pipe to relieve the pressure from the compressor and direct it to the cylinder, and the other pipe to direct the oil from the pressurized cylinder and direct it to the rear beam. Without lubrication, the engine can only run for 1 to 5 minutes depending on the NGV temperature (the higher the temperature, the less time work). After this, you need to lubricate the bearings yourself. And with the added lubrication system, the engine can run for a long time.

Piloting airplanes has become a hobby that unites adults and children from all over the world. But with the development of this entertainment, propulsion systems for mini airplanes are also developing. The most common engine for aircraft of this type is electric. But recently, jet engines (JE) have appeared in the arena of engines for RC aircraft models.

They are constantly updated with all sorts of innovations and ideas from designers. The task they face is quite difficult, but possible. After the creation of one of the first downsized engine models that became significant for aircraft modeling, a lot changed in the 1990s. The first turbojet engine was 30 cm in length, about 10 cm in diameter and weighed 1.8 kg, but over decades, designers were able to create a more compact model. If you thoroughly consider their structure, you can reduce the difficulties and consider the option of creating your own masterpiece.

RD device

Turbojet engines (TREs) operate by expanding heated gas. These are the most efficient engines for aviation, even mini ones running on carbon fuel. Since the emergence of the idea of creating an airplane without a propeller, the idea of a turbine began to develop throughout the entire community of engineers and designers. The turbojet engine consists of the following components:

Diffuser;
Turbine wheel;
The combustion chamber;
Compressor;
Stator;
Nozzle cone;
Guide apparatus;
Bearings;
Air intake nozzle;
Fuel pipe and much more.

Principle of operation

The structure of a turbocharged engine is based on a shaft that rotates with the help of a compressor thrust and pumps air with rapid rotation, compressing it and directing it out of the stator. Once in a freer space, the air immediately begins to expand, trying to regain its usual pressure, but in the internal combustion chamber it is heated by fuel, which causes it to expand even more.

The only way for pressurized air to escape is from the impeller. With tremendous speed, it strives for freedom, heading in the opposite direction from the compressor, towards the impeller, which spins up with a powerful flow, and begins to rotate quickly, imparting traction force to the entire engine. Part of the resulting energy begins to rotate the turbine, driving the compressor with greater force, and the residual pressure is released through the engine nozzle with a powerful impulse directed to the tail section.

The more air is heated and compressed, the greater the pressure generated and the temperature inside the chambers. The generated exhaust gases spin the impeller, rotate the shaft and enable the compressor to constantly receive fresh air flows.

Types of turbojet engine control

There are three types of motor control:

Types of engines for aircraft models

Model aircraft jet engines come in several main types and two classes: air-jet and missile. Some of them are outdated, others are too expensive, but enthusiastic fans of controllable model aircraft are trying to try out the new engine in action. Co average speed flying at 100 km/h, model aircraft only become more interesting for the viewer and the pilot. The most popular engine types differ for controlled and bench models due to different efficiency, weight and thrust. There are only a few types in aircraft modeling:

Missile;
Ramjet (PRJ);
Pulsating air-jet (PurVD);
Turbojet (TRD);

Missile used only on bench models, and then quite rarely. Its operating principle is different from an air-jet. The main parameter here is specific impulse. Popular due to the lack of need to interact with oxygen and the ability to work in zero gravity.

Direct flow burns the air out environment, which is sucked from the inlet diffuser into the combustion chamber. The air intake in this case directs oxygen into the engine, which, thanks to internal structure causes the fresh air flow to build up pressure. During operation, the air approaches the air intake at flight speed, but in the inlet nozzle it sharply decreases several times. Due to confined space pressure is built up, which, when mixed with fuel, splashes out of reverse side exhaust at high speed.

Throbbing It works identically to direct-flow, but in its case the combustion of fuel is not constant, but periodic. With the help of valves, fuel is supplied only at the necessary moments, when the pressure in the combustion chamber begins to drop. Most jet pulsating engines perform between 180 and 270 fuel injection cycles per second. To stabilize the pressure state (3.5 kg/cm2), forced air supply is used using pumps.

Turbojet engine, The device you discussed above has the most modest fuel consumption, which is why it is valued. Their only downside is their low weight to thrust ratio. Turbine taxiways allow the model to reach speeds of up to 350 km/h, while idling The engine is kept at 35,000 rpm.

Specifications

An important parameter that makes model airplanes fly is thrust. It provides good power, capable of lifting large loads into the air. The thrust of old and new engines is different, but for models created according to drawings from the 1960s, running on modern fuel, and modernized with modern devices, efficiency and power increase significantly.

Depending on the type of taxiway, the characteristics, as well as the principle of operation, may differ, but for all of them to start, you need to create optimal conditions. The engines are started using a starter - other motors, mainly electric, which are attached to the engine shaft in front of the input diffuser, or the start occurs by spinning the shaft using compressed air supplied to the impeller.

GR-180 engine

Using the example of data from the technical passport of a serial turbojet GR-180 engine you can see the actual characteristics of the working model:
Traction: 180N at 120,000 rpm, 10N at 25,000 rpm
RPM range: 25,000 - 120,000 rpm
Exhaust gas temperature: up to 750 C°
Jet exhaust speed: 1658 km/h
Fuel consumption: 585ml/min (under load), 120ml/min (idle)
Weight: 1.2kg
Diameter: 107mm
length: 240mm

Usage

The main area of application has been and remains aviation focus. Quantity and size different types Airplane turbojet engines are staggering, but each one is special and is used when needed. Even in radio-controlled aircraft models From time to time, new turbojet systems appear and are presented for public viewing to spectators at exhibitions and competitions. Attention to its use allows you to significantly develop the capabilities of engines, complementing the operating principle with fresh ideas.
In the last decade, skydivers and wingsuit extreme sports athletes have been integrating mini Turbojet engine as a source of thrust for flight using a wing suit from wingsuit fabric, in which case the engines are attached to the legs, or hard wing, worn like a backpack on the back, to which the engines are attached.
Another promising area of use is combat drones for the military, on this moment they are actively used in the US Army.

The most promising area for using mini turbojet engines is drones for transportation goods between cities and around the world.

Installation and connection

Installing a jet engine and connecting it to the system is a complex process. It is necessary to connect the fuel pump, bypass and control valves, tank and temperature sensors into a single circuit. Due to the impact high temperatures, joints and fuel pipes with a fire-resistant coating are usually used. Everything is secured with homemade fittings, a soldering iron and seals. Since the tube can be as large as the head of a needle, the connection must be tight and insulated. Incorrect connection may result in motor destruction or explosion. The principle of connecting the circuit on bench and flying models is different and must be carried out in accordance with the working drawings.

Advantages and disadvantages of RD

There are many advantages to all types of jet engines. Each type of turbine is used for specific purposes, which are not affected by its features. In aircraft modeling, the use of a jet engine opens the door to high speeds and the ability to maneuver independently of many external stimuli. Unlike electric and internal combustion engines, jet models are more powerful and allow the aircraft to spend more time in the air.
conclusions
Jet engines for aircraft models can have different thrust, weight, structure and appearance. For aircraft modeling they will always remain indispensable because high performance and the ability to use a turbine using different fuels and operating principles. By choosing certain goals, the designer can adjust the rated power, the principle of thrust generation, etc., using different types turbines to different models. The operation of the engine on fuel combustion and oxygen pressure makes it as efficient and economical as possible from 0.145 kg/l to 0.67 kg/l, which is what aircraft designers have always strived for.

What to do? Buy or make it yourself

This question is not simple. Since turbojet engines, whether they are full-scale or smaller models, are technically complex devices. Making it is not an easy task. On the other hand, mini turbojet engines are produced exclusively in the USA or European countries, so their price is on average $3,000, plus or minus 100 bucks. So, buying a ready-made turbojet engine will cost you $3,500, including shipping and all the associated pipes and systems. You can see the price for yourself, just google “P180-RX turbojet engine”

Therefore, in modern realities, it is better to approach this matter in the following way - what is called do-it-yourself. But this is not an entirely correct interpretation; it would be more likely to outsource the work to contractors. The engine consists of a mechanical and electronic part. We buy components for the electronic part of the propulsion system in China, we order the mechanical part from local turners, but this requires drawings or 3D models and, in principle, the mechanical part is in your pocket.

Electronic part

The engine mode maintenance controller can be assembled using Arduino. To do this, you need a chip stitched with Arduino, sensors - a speed sensor and a temperature sensor and actuators, an electronically controlled fuel supply valve. You can flash the chip yourself if you know programming languages, or go to the Arduino forum for a service.

Mechanical part

With mechanics, all the spare parts in theory can be made for you by lathes and millers, the problem is that for this you need to specifically look for them. It’s not a problem to find a turner who will make the shaft and shaft sleeve, but everything else. The most difficult part to manufacture is the centrifugal compressor wheel. It is made either by casting. or on 5 coordinate milling machine. The easiest way to get an impeller centrifugal pump This is to buy it as a spare part for an internal combustion engine turbocharger of a car. And then align all the other details with it.