How to provide fuchsia with proper care for successful growing. Fuchsia: growing and care at home

Fuchsia (Fuchsia) is a plant belonging to the fireweed family and numbering up to 100 species. The plant was named after the German botanist Fuchs. Under natural conditions, it is widespread in South and Central America.

Fuchsia, depending on the variety, is trees or small shrubs. In some species the leaves grow oppositely, in others - in whorls; Some types of Fuchsia shed their leaves after the end of the growing season. The leaves are lanceolate, elongated oval or ovoid; The edges of the leaves can be either whole or with small serrations. Flower calyxes are tubular and elongated, most often white or red with long stamens.

Even an amateur gardener can grow Fuchsia; the plant is quite easy to care for. Grow and how hanging plants, And How standard trees. One of important conditions caring for Fuchsia - the plant should overwinter in cool conditions. Another difficulty is that the plant sheds its leaves after flowering.

Fuchsia - care

Lighting

The optimal location for Fuchsia is considered to be windows on eastern and western windows, since the plant needs a lot of bright, but diffused light. Can tolerate direct sunlight in the morning and evening. If Fuchsia is on a south window, then the plant must be covered with a translucent cloth or paper to avoid burns. On the north side, a lack of lighting can lead to stretching of the plant and poor flowering (or lack thereof). When Fuchsia blooms, it should not be moved or rotated, as this may cause the plant to shed its buds and leaves. Fuchsia can be taken outside in the summer, but this must be done gradually, accustoming it to new conditions.

Temperature

Air temperature during the growing season can range from 18 to 24 degrees. Fuchsia should overwinter in a cool place (5 to 10 degrees above zero) with good lighting. At higher temperatures, Fuchsia sheds its leaves and the shoots become elongated. The plant needs an influx of fresh air, but it must be ventilated carefully, since drafts can destroy the plant. In summer, the plant can be taken out to the balcony, providing suitable conditions - no precipitation, drafts and direct sun rays.

Watering

Water Fuchsia with soft, settled water at room temperature. From March to September, water immediately after the top layer of soil has dried, since at this time the substrate should be constantly slightly moist. From October, the frequency of watering is reduced, and by the end of November it almost stops (this will contribute to more abundant flowering next year). When kept in winter at temperatures up to 10 degrees, water very rarely, and when wintering above 10 degrees - a little more often.

Humidity

Spray Fuchsia with soft water - you need to let the water sit for 24 hours before spraying. From May to August, spray twice a day - before 9 am and after 6 pm. In autumn, spray once every two to three days. There is no need to spray the plant in winter.

Top dressing

From April to September, the plant is fed every 2-3 weeks with complex mineral fertilizers for indoor plants. IN winter time the plant does not need feeding.

Bloom

Compliance with all conditions for keeping Fuchsia will give it the opportunity to bloom from May to November, and even produce berry-like juicy fruits. Withered flowers must be removed - this helps the plant form young buds. Moving Fuchsia to the balcony in July and pruning it three times over the summer will promote long-term flowering - right up to December.

Trimming

Wintering Fuchsia at room temperature leads to stretching of stems and falling of leaves. Since flowers are formed mainly on young shoots, in order to promote their development, old bare shoots need to be pruned (they can be used for propagation by cuttings). Throughout the growing season, Fuchsia is pruned and pinched. Pinch out young shoots after three pairs of leaves have formed.

To form a tree, one vertically growing shoot is attached to a vertical support and that’s it. side shoots cut until the trunk reaches the desired height. After this, the top is cut off and 3-5 side shoots are allowed to develop, which will form the crown of the tree. In three years, a beautiful lush crown will form.

Transfer

Fuchsias are transplanted annually in early March. Before transplanting, cut off old shoots by at least a third and slightly shorten the roots. In ampelous species, the shoots are not shortened, since the plant loses its decorative effect. Replant Fuchsia in slightly acidic soil consisting of deciduous soil, peat and sand (3: 2: 1). Another substrate option is 3 parts of clay-turf soil, 2 parts of greenhouse soil and 1 part. sand (and some peat chips). Drainage is poured into the bottom of the pot to one-fifth of its height. After transplantation, the plant is generously sprayed and watered, and placed in a place with bright, diffused light. In mid-summer, Fuchsia can be replanted into fresh soil.

Propagation by seeds

To obtain Fuchsia seeds, you need to artificially pollinate. During pollination different types Fuchsias with different shapes and shades of flowers, you can get a new hybrid.

Propagation by cuttings

When propagating by cuttings, cuttings of five to seven centimeters in length are needed. For rooting, the cuttings are placed in water or one end is buried in the sand. The cuttings will take root within 3-4 weeks. The cuttings are planted in 9-centimeter individual pots in a substrate of equal parts of humus, leaf and turf soil, and sand. To grow lush bushes, cuttings need to be planted several in one pot. Young Fuchsias should bloom this same year. Species that grow slowly are best propagated by cuttings in late summer.

Fuchsia – difficulties:

▪Fuchsias do not tolerate stagnant air well - during the growing season the room must be regularly ventilated or Fuchsia must be placed on the balcony.

▪Fuchsia can bloom for a short period with abundant watering and maintenance warm conditions in winter; in case of insufficient lighting in spring and summer; with insufficient watering and fertilizing in summer.

▪If Fuchsia sheds its leaves in winter, the plant can be removed from bright light, and the emerging buds must be pinched.

▪Leaves may fall if humidity is too low, watering is poor and temperatures are too high.

▪Fuchsia's buds fall off when there is insufficient lighting and too warm air, as well as when watering is irregular.

The plant may develop spotting if the plant is watered too often in winter.

▪During flowering or the appearance of buds, the plant cannot be moved - it may drop the buds. The same consequences will occur if you place Fuchsia in a draft.

▪Most often, Fuchsia is bothered by whiteflies and spider mites.

Diseases and pests of fuchsia

Whitefly

The most common pest of fuchsias is the whitefly. These are small (up to 2mm) flies white. They got their generic name because both pairs of wings are covered with white pollen. Externally they look like a microscopic moth. Large colonies of these insects, adults and larvae, live on the lower surface of the leaf. They are easy to notice because... when shaking the foliage of the plant, the flies fly up en masse.

The larva has 4 instars. In the first, she is mobile, with legs and antennae. Her task is to find appropriate place for attaching to a sheet. In subsequent instars, the larva is no longer motionless: it firmly “sucks” to the leaf and sucks out the juice through a stylet immersed in the tissue. During this period, the larva resembles a transparent flat scale.

During mass reproduction, such scale larvae completely cover the leaves. The consequences of this lesion are yellowing of the leaves, shredding of flowers, and drying out of the shoots. Like other sucking insects, the whitefly secretes sweet honeydew on which sooty fungi develop. The whitefly is also dangerous as a carrier of viruses that cause plant diseases.

At the fourth instar, the larva turns into a pupa. It changes greatly, becomes convex, opaque, and is covered with waxy secretions on top. After molting, the pupa turns into an adult insect.

There are several types of whitefly: citrus, greenhouse, tobacco.

Citrus whitefly harms subtropical trees and shrubs in the south of the Krasnodar Territory and in greenhouses.

The greenhouse whitefly is a species of tropical origin. IN open ground does not overwinter. But in greenhouses it is harmful all year round. Gives 5-7 generations per year.

Tobacco (or cotton) - outwardly does not differ from the greenhouse one, but has some peculiarities in development. It is highly resistant to pesticides.

Control measures

Good results are obtained by watering all plants 3-4 times with the Aktara preparation (4 g of the drug per 5 liters of water). Plant sap becomes fatal to pests. Repeated treatment is necessary because after treatment only those stages of the pest that feed on the plant sap die.

It is better to alternate treatments with Aktara and Confidor. Since the use of only one drug can contribute to the emergence of a resistant generation of the pest.

Washing plants also complements insecticides well. soap solution. This solution should be left on the plant for about 1 hour, and then rinse the plant a little warm water by hand washing off the larvae on the undersides of the leaves.

To reduce the number of adult insects, you can use yellow glue strip traps, where insects fall when disturbed by shaking the foliage. But only the use of insecticides gives a guaranteed result.

Red spider mite

It's very small arthropod insect(0.25-0.4mm) reddish in color, found on the underside of leaves. The mite sucks the juices from the plant. The surface of the leaves is first covered with individual pale spots, gradually the area of ​​damage increases, the spots merge, the leaves turn yellow and die. A barely noticeable white web sometimes appears under the leaves. Very often, the mite becomes active in dry conditions at high plant temperatures.

Control measures

Treat (spray) the plant with the preparations “Agravertin”, “Fitoverm”, “Confidor”. Remove affected leaves.

Prevention: Frequently spray fuchsia with warm water.

Root rotting

Fuchsia loves abundant and regular watering, but sometimes fungal rotting of the roots occurs in fuchsia due to excessive waterlogging. The following symptoms indicate this: the leaves become limp and lose their shine, despite the moist soil. The plant dies quickly

Control measures

Unfortunately, the plant most often cannot be saved, either by adjusting watering or by replanting. Even cuttings from such plants, as a rule, no longer take root.

Yellowing of leaves

Fuchsia – foliage plant, therefore naturally loses some part yellow leaves at the base, but this should not be confused with leaf drop. Falling leaves can be caused by an attack by aphids, thrips or red spiders, but in this case the pests or their “marks” are easy to notice on the leaves.

If no signs of pests are noticeable, then there can be many reasons for leaf falling. All varieties of hybrid triphylla are famous for their tendency to "bald" at the base, mainly due to large fluctuations in temperature or, as was the case this year, due to improper watering. This especially happens after heavy watering following excessive drying of the soil. In ordinary varieties, yellowing of the leaves is most likely caused by overwatering or underwatering. Another reason is where you use tap water that is too hard, as fuchsias get offended by too much a large number of lime A very common but rarely identified cause of excessive yellowing is sunburn, which may caused by spraying foliage at first summer weeks without sufficient shading. In this case, the sun dries the moisture from the leaves, leaving yellow “striations” on them.

Mature plants two years old or older often turn yellow due to magnesium deficiency unless replanted in fresh compost. Usually our earthen mixtures contain a large supply of this important element. But when we grow plants in the same compost, we deplete it, causing magnesium deficiency, which results in the lower leaves turning a pale yellow color.

The important role of magnesium for a plant is that it is part of chlorophyll, the substance that makes the plant green. Chlorophyll is vital to plants because it is responsible for absorbing energy from the sun and converting it into chemical energy that causes plant growth.

Excessive magnesium deficiency is not common, but when it does occur, it may first be found in the greenhouse. Without this element, the plant cannot produce chlorophyll: pale yellow spots and streaks appear on lower leaves, which eventually fall off. A severe deficiency can cause plants to become completely “bald” by mid-summer, much like a widespread spider mite attack.

The “medicine” is very simple - when the first signs appear, water or spray with a solution of magnesium sulfate two or three times.

The lack of another element that causes yellowing of leaves is iron deficiency. In this case, spraying or fertilizing with iron-containing preparations will be required.

Plants outdoors can also turn yellow - usually they are victims of excessive changes in temperature. These are those plants that were not sufficiently hardened off before planting in open ground and especially those that were not transplanted into fresh soil before planting.

Caring for indoor fuchsia video

The beauty of fuchsia attracts many women. This plant can be grown both at home and in open ground. The Fuchsia flower is not a tall bush, which, when flowering, is strewn with various, pleasingly varied colors and shapes of flowers. Fuchsia grows in Mexico, South and Central America, mainly in mountainous areas. Some types of fuchsia are native to New Zealand. Conditions favorable for the growth of this flower are fog, partial shade and moist, cool air. You can grow fuchsia at home, you just need to follow the rules for the care and propagation of this unpretentious plant. Fuchsia. Growing and care

Temperature The favorable temperature for plant growth is considered to be 18 °C – 25 °C. In the summer, when it is up to 30 °C outside, fuchsia grows very well, and especially in August. If the temperature begins to rise, the flowering of fuchsia stops, the bush dries out and sheds its leaves. And direct sunlight, especially in the heat, will lead to the complete death of the plant. In order to prevent fuchsia roots, which are very sensitive, from overheating, it is planted in a large ceramic pot. If the pot is made of plastic, it heats up quickly and can damage the plant.

Lighting for fuchsia The light for this flower is bright enough, but a little diffused. Therefore, in open ground, fuchsia should be placed in partial shade, and at home - on a window facing east or west. Fuchsia tolerates morning or evening sun quite well, but the plant may not be able to withstand the heat that comes during the daytime and will wither away. When the bush blooms, you cannot turn it over or rearrange it anywhere, as it can immediately throw off all the flowers and even buds.

Watering Fuchsia should be watered abundantly when the soil begins to dry out. Winter watering should be moderate. For this purpose, soft water, previously settled, is used. Closer to winter, in the last months of autumn, watering is gradually reduced and increased to once or twice a month if the temperature drops below 0 °C.

Air humidity Fuchsia leaves need to be sprayed with water from a spray bottle twice a day, and they do not require this procedure in autumn and winter. In the spring and summer, to increase humidity, a container filled with pebbles and water is placed next to the fuchsia.

Top dressing In open ground, biological fertilizers are useful for fuchsia, and at home you can use ready-made fertilizers from specialized stores. It is necessary to choose fertilizers for indoor flowering plants. In winter, feeding fuchsia is not required, but during the rest of the period it is necessary to apply fertilizers quite often - once a week.

Fuchsia transplant Every year this flower needs spring transplant. The soil must be fertile (you can use special mixtures purchased at gardening stores) and there must be drainage in the pot. You can add humus, sand and loam to the soil to retain water.

Fuchsia propagation In order for fuchsia to grow thicker, it needs to be pruned more often. And you can plant it in ordinary or hanging pot. If you plant several varieties in one container, then when flowering begins, fuchsia will delight the eye with a riot of colors.

Fuchsia propagates by cuttings. This procedure is performed in February-March. If the bush grows slowly (this depends on the variety), then you can take cuttings in August or September. The resulting cuttings, 5 to 7 cm long, must be rooted in sand, water or loose soil. After 20-25 days, roots begin to appear on the cuttings, and the finished seedlings are transplanted into 7 or 9 cm pots. The soil for fuchsia should contain equal parts of sand, humus and soil (leaf and turf). To create a lush bush, you need to plant several cuttings in one pot. The young plant will bloom in the same season.

Fuchsia can also be propagated by seeds., but for the seeds to ripen, they require cross (artificial) pollination. If you mix several varieties, you can get hybrid plants, with new different shapes and colors of flowers.

Fuchsia can also be propagated by leaves.. To do this, the leaves, which are more developed, along with the stem are removed from mother plant and are laid in the ground, which should be soft, a centimeter deep and covered with glass or plastic on top. In order for the stems to grow well, they need to be sprayed every day with a spray bottle. The water for this must be boiled and warm. To transplant young plants into separate pots, you need to wait until small rosettes appear from the base of the stem.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom? If fuchsia does not bloom, then perhaps the plant was not properly cared for in winter. In winter, the temperature acceptable for fuchsia should be from 5 °C to 10 °C. In this case, the plant slows down its growth and is in a dormant state. If the temperature rises, then the duration and brightness of the lighting should also be increased.

If the fuchsia was pinched and trimmed late, then this can also affect the delay in the flowering period. You need to cut out broken, weak and diseased branches. And this procedure must be carried out in the spring, and then in the fall. If fuchsia overwinters in a cold room, then all branches must be cut by 1/3. If the plant overwinters in a warm place, then it is better to prune in February or March.

You can give fuchsia a variety of shapes, pinching shoots in certain places. To form an ampel, the fourth pair of leaves is usually pinched. And if the entire bush is to be formed, then only the third pair of leaves is removed. At the top of the plant, do not pinch more than 2 times, and at the bottom, remove excess shoots once so that flowering occurs quickly.

Avoid mistakes in growing fuchsia: hot place, insufficient lighting or direct sunlight. The whole plant suffers from this - the roots deteriorate, the buds are dropped, the plant becomes smaller. If you added a lot of nitrogen to the soil or, conversely, the plant did not have enough necessary substances (phosphorus or potassium) to develop buds, then all this negatively affects the plant. If the pot is chosen incorrectly, flowering does not occur. The fuchsia roots should wrap around the entire soil ball in the pot, so the container should be the size of the root system.

Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia) – evergreen perennial shrub, belonging to the fireweed family. This plant is pleasing to the eye bright flowers of all kinds of shades, which is why they so often like to place it on home windowsills. The homeland of fuchsias is New Zealand, South and Central America. The flower has been cultivated for more than 200 years. Below we will tell you in more detail about how to care for fuchsia, how often to water it, when to replant it, and what to do if it does not bloom.

In nature, fuchsia looks like a shrub with flexible branches and oval leaves, slightly jagged at the edges. Depending on the type of fuchsia indoor blooms V different time year, so you have every chance to have a flowerbed on your windowsill that will be colorful from early spring to late autumn. Varieties include simple (for example, Bon Accord, Winston Churchill), semi-double (Satellite, Snowcup), double (Fuchsia Margarita) and racemose (Leverkusen).

Temperature, lighting

Proper care of fuchsia at home begins with choosing the optimal location for placement. The flower needs partial shade or bright light, but without direct sunlight. Fuchsia feels good on eastern and northern windowsills. Delicately colored varieties are best kept in partial shade, while fuchsias with bright colors should be kept in a well-lit place.

The plant loves cool rooms, so in summer you should try to ensure the room temperature is up to 24°C, and in winter – up to 15°C. In the warm season, the flower can be taken out onto the balcony or street, choosing a well-lit place. The plant does not tolerate heat well and needs to be sprayed, but this must be done after sunset. You can place the pot with the plant on a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay. To make fuchsia less likely to overheat in summer, choose a light-colored pot.

Soil and watering

The fuchsia flower loves moist soil, but excessive watering can lead to rotting of the root system. Provide a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles at the bottom of the pot. In the warm season, fuchsia needs to be watered regularly, but at the same time make sure that it has time to dry. upper layer soil. Water must be settled or filtered. In winter, watering fuchsia needs to be reduced to a minimum. Provide the flower with a period of rest, but do not allow the earthen clod to dry out.

The plant loves loose, breathable soil. If you prepare the soil for fuchsia yourself, it is best to take 3 parts of turf soil, 3 parts of leaf humus, 1 part each of sand and peat. If you purchase ready soil in the store - choose universal or for flowering plants. You can add a little peat mixture to it.

It is necessary to fertilize fuchsia complex fertilizers for flowering plants during the growing season. Add fertilizer to the water for irrigation once every 1-2 weeks from the moment the first buds appear on the flower. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water for spraying, but only until the buds open. Stop feeding in September, when the shoots ripen. In winter, during the dormant period, there is no need to fertilize fuchsia.

Pruning and replanting

Thanks to the flexibility of fuchsia branches, it can be given an ampelous, bush or pyramidal shape. The plant is pruned before wintering and in spring. Before sending the fuchsia to rest, old branches are shortened by 2/3, and young ones by 1/3. All leaves, flowers and buds are removed. In the spring, you should shorten the branches by 2 more buds, remove dried ones and those that grow inside the crown.

If pruning was not done in the fall, double work needs to be done in the spring. To ensure a beautiful shape and prevent the plant from becoming bare, new branches must be pinched twice in the spring. The last pinching should be done in the last ten days of May so as not to delay flowering.

The indoor fuchsia plant requires annual replanting. It is necessary to take a pot 3-4 cm larger in diameter and height than the previous one. A container that is too large will provoke the growth of new shoots, but will slow down flowering. Bushes up to 3 years old are simply transferred to new pots, and in adult fuchsias the soil is partially changed or 3 cm of fresh soil is added on top.

Growing fuchsia in open ground

Fuchsias do well outdoors. Moreover, this significantly reduces the risk of pest infection - in a hot and dry room, fuchsia is much more often attacked by spider mites and aphids.

Planting

You need to transfer the flower to open ground in late spring - early summer. So that fuchsia can withstand winds and rains, a support is first dug into the ground. Fertilizing with biological fertilizers is effective.

For planting in the ground, it is better to select varieties with powerful, straight shoots. It is better to choose a shaded place, since most fuchsias do not tolerate direct sunlight. But there is also hybrid varieties bred for growing in sunny areas - “Coral”, “Aloha”. It is better to plant ampelous compact varieties directly in pots, because the flowers will still have to be put indoors for the winter.

There are very few cold-resistant fuchsias that can withstand frosty winters in open ground (for example, fuchsia Magellan). Some gardeners have conducted successful experiments in wintering fuchsias on outdoors– with the onset of cold weather, the above-ground part of the plant was cut off at the root, and the area with the roots was insulated. If you want to be sure to preserve the plant, it is better to put it indoors or on a glassed-in loggia before winter, because fuchsias love a cool winter. At the same time, do not forget about pruning before the winter holidays.

Problems when growing fuchsias

Even if you are sure that you know how to care for a flower, no one is immune from periodic difficulties. Fuchsias rarely get sick, but are susceptible to attacks by whiteflies, aphids and spider mites.

Pests

• Whitefly. When whitefly infests fuchsia, spots appear on the leaves, they turn yellow and fall off. Sooty fungus appears on damaged areas.
• Spider mite. When a plant is infected with a spider mite, the leaves become discolored and fall off, and black dots are visible on their reverse side. The pest loves rooms with low air humidity.
• Aphid. When aphids are infested, you can notice colonies on the outer parts of the plant. The leaves curl, the stems bend, and the buds remain unopened.

If pests have just appeared, it can help fight them warm shower(with water temperature 36-38 °C). After the procedure, the plant must be allowed to dry and only then exposed to sunlight. If this does not help, you should apply the insecticide 3 times with an interval of 7 days. The solution is prepared according to the instructions, after which the crown is sprayed with it and covered with a plastic bag for half an hour, and the substrate is watered with a 2-fold diluted dose for spraying.

Other problems

• Falling of buds and leaves can be observed when the watering regime is violated, there is a lack of lighting, a sudden change in location in relation to the light, or hot air.
• A short flowering period for fuchsia can be caused by insufficient fertilizing, lack of light and humidity during the growth period, and insufficiently cool wintering.
• Brown spots and yellowing of leaves appear due to waterlogging of the soil during the cold season.

Fuchsia blossom

The plant blooms profusely and for a long time. The flowers consist of a tubular corolla with curved edges and a bright calyx. They somewhat resemble lanterns hanging from branches. Fuchsia blooms can be either monochromatic (pink, red, orange, white, purple, lilac) or contain several shades at once.

During the flowering period, it is important not to turn the plant with its other side towards the light source, otherwise it may drop its flowers. Wilted ones must be removed immediately so as not to stimulate the ripening of inflorescences, which shortens the flowering period. Typically, the flowering period of fuchsia does not provoke allergic reactions in others.

Fuchsia propagation

Fuchsia can be propagated at home using seeds or cuttings. It is best to start the growing process in the spring. Fuchsia loves cool weather, and in summer the cuttings often rot from high temperature air.

Cuttings

It is necessary to take young fuchsia cuttings 10-20 cm long, since woody ones will take longer to take root. Before placing the cuttings in water, you need to remove all the lower leaves and shorten the remaining ones so that the evaporation of moisture through them does not weaken the sprout. You can use regular filtered water.

To prevent moisture evaporation, you can build a greenhouse over a container of water by covering the cutting plastic bag. The first roots sometimes appear within 4 days, although the process usually takes 10-14 days. There is no need to wait for long roots to appear - the cuttings can be transplanted into the substrate as soon as they hatch.

There is another way to root cuttings - placing them directly into the substrate. In this case, placing a greenhouse is necessary, otherwise the leaves will lose turgor. The advantage of such rooting is that the cutting adapts to the soil faster. After rooting, the greenhouse can be removed. At first, there will be a loss of leaf turgor until the plant gets used to more low level room humidity than in a greenhouse.

Propagation by seeds

This method is complex, but interesting, since a plant grown from seeds rarely retains the properties of the original flower. To do this, you need to exclude self-pollination of fuchsia and pollination by insects. The anthers of the still unopened flower are removed, and the pollen of the paternal plant is applied to the stigma of the pistil.

After this, a fabric or paper cover is put on the flower to protect it from insects. When the fruit is ripe, it is carefully cut, the seeds are removed and dried for a couple of days. It is best to sow seeds in March-April on moist soil, then place the container in a greenhouse and provide good lighting and room temperature.

Shoots appear after 2 weeks, and after 1.5-2 months the seedlings can be planted more spaciously. After another two months, the young plants can be planted in separate pots. Seedlings gradually adapt to environment, periodically opening the greenhouse slightly. If this is done abruptly, young shoots may die.

If fuchsia doesn't bloom

The reason for the short flowering of fuchsia may be an insufficiently cool winter. If kept in a hot room, the plant may not bloom at all. The absence of flowers can also provoke:

• excessive or insufficient watering;
• poor lighting;
• lack of nutrients in the soil.

Purchase Features

Fuchsia can be purchased at a specialized flower shop or greenhouse. When choosing a seedling, pay attention to the appearance of the plant - the roots should not protrude above the substrate, the leaves should not have spots or dry areas. The top of the central shoot should not be damaged or pinched. The plant must be accompanied by a certificate indicating the variety, bush shape and a photograph of flowering. The cost of a young rooted fuchsia cutting is 200 rubles.

Fuchsia is indoor plant with bright flowers, which can be planted even in open ground. With proper care, it will delight you with long-lasting flowering. Fuchsias are easily propagated by cuttings, which makes it easy to expand the collection.

Luxurious, spectacular, bright fuchsia, without a shadow of exaggeration, can be called a real “precious decoration” of any home and garden. People first learned about this plant more than 300 years ago, and since that time several thousand varieties of fuchsia have been bred. various forms and shades that many amateur gardeners happily grow in their greenhouses and gardens.

Fuchsia in the garden and in the house

According to its biological description, fuchsia is a small, compact tree with flexible shoots of a reddish hue, medium-sized lancet-shaped leaves, green or red, and numerous flowers of various shades and types.

Fuchsia flowers consist of two parts: a bowl and a tubular corolla, under which there are bright, long stamens. Often the corolla and calyx of the flower have different shades. And in appearance, these inflorescences are very reminiscent of miniature dancers in elegant fluffy or flowing skirts.

The flowering period of this plant is very long. With proper care, it can last from early spring and almost until winter. This made fuchsia very attractive to gardeners. Over the three centuries, during which active selection of this flower was carried out, a huge number of plant varieties were bred. Among them there are fuchsias various types, including erect and ampelous, larger and more compact, as well as very spectacular varieties with flowering shoots collected in racemose inflorescences, etc. Fuchsia is an excellent decoration for windows, winter gardens and loggias. In addition, in the summer it can be placed on open terraces and in the garden. How Dahlias are grown can be understood by reading this

Description of varieties and their features

There is a wide variety of fuchsia species found in nature, the most famous of which are:

• trifoliate. It is a medium-sized shrub with highly branched branches and small bright fiery red tassels-inflorescences. Blooms from May to September. It is afraid of frost, but is resistant to high temperatures;

Fuchsia trifoliata

• shining or shiny. Grows up to 2 m. It has reddish shoots with large heart-shaped leaves. Flowers with a red calyx with yellow tips and a crimson corolla;

Fuchsia radiant

• Splendence. Produces large fruits with a lemon flavor and a tart aroma of spices;

Fuchsia splendence

• Bolivian. Differs in high growth. It has pleasant to the touch, velvety foliage and large inflorescences of white and red colors.

Fuchsia boliviana

For growing in room conditions Mostly, hybrid varieties are used, differing in their type of growth. These include:

• bush fuchsias having smooth shoots growing in a vertical direction;
• ampel-type varieties, the distinctive feature of which is flexible stems of small thickness, freely falling down;
• ampel-bush type, with a long stem that requires tying to a support;
• Quite often, fuchsias are grown in floor-type containers and other suitable containers.

The following are best suited for growing in containers:

1. Allison Bell. It has spectacular semi-double flowers of a purple-red hue.
2. Armbrough Campbell. Prized for its beautiful double-type inflorescences with bright red narrow sepals and soft pink petals that open in winter.
3. Waist. Distinctive feature varieties - bright orange color.
4. Anabel. It is presented in a hanging and bush form, has white flowers of a double type, large in size. But how to plant such a flower as Wisteria can be understood from this

No less popular among flower growers are fuchsias of ampelous shapes, the graceful, curly shoots of which are distinguished by their attractive appearance. appearance and decorativeness:

• Prince of Peace– with simple flowers with white sepals surrounded by a red skirt;

Prince of Peace

• Hollies Beauty– with double inflorescences of white and pink shade;

Hollies Beauty

• Blue Angel– blooming with beautiful lilac-violet flowers with a white frame, etc.

Reproduction methods

When growing fuchsia for own home or garden, several basic methods of its propagation are used. These include:

• Cuttings;
• Reproduction using seed material;
• Propagation using leaves.

Cuttings of fuchsias are most often carried out in February-March, less often - in the second half of August - September (this is how slow-growing varieties reproduce). For this purpose, cuttings with a length ranging from 5 to 7 cm are used, which are rooted in sand or water. Three weeks after the roots appear, they are moved to pots with a soil substrate consisting of rotted humus, leaf, turf soil and sand, taken in equal proportions.

To get beautiful, large plants with a lush crown, several seedlings should be placed in one container at a time. Young shoots will begin to bloom in the year of planting.

It is very convenient to germinate fuchsia cuttings in peat tablets, which can be purchased in specialized stores. In this case, they are slightly moistened with water, and after soaking, the cuttings are placed in their central part, making a small depression there. Tablets with cuttings should be covered and placed in a warm place (greenhouse). Rooting of plants planted in this way will occur in approximately 7-10 days. Then the cuttings along with the tablet can be planted in a suitable container with a prepared substrate for an adult plant.

To obtain fuchsia from seeds, artificial pollination is used to ripen them. Thus, mixing various varieties, you can get new hybrids with external signs, different from the source material. Seed material is obtained from fully ripened fruits of the plant, collected in dry, warm weather.
The collected seeds must be well dried to prevent them from rotting and maintain germination.

Foliar propagation of fuchsias is carried out according to the following method:

1. The stems, along with several full leaves, are torn from the mother plant and placed in soil of a loose consistency, buried no more than 1 cm.
2. They are covered with a glass or plastic lid.
3. Every day, remove the lid and spray the planted leaves from a spray bottle with boiled water, cooled to a warm state.
4. After the root shoots appear at the base of the stem, the plants are moved to small pots for further rooting.

Caring for fuchsia is quite simple, so almost anyone can grow this magnificent plant in their home. But in order for the “dancing flower” to delight you with its flowering for a long time when growing it at home, it is important to pay attention to the following points.

Temperature selection

During the period of growth and active flowering in the spring-summer period, the flower should be placed indoors (or outdoors) with temperature conditions 18-25 degrees. The plant does not like heat very much, so if you keep it on a terrace or balcony, keep in mind that when the air temperature increases above these limits, the fuchsia may become capricious, stopping blooming and dropping its leaves. So in the summer, during the daytime, it is better to cover it from the sun. In winter, fuchsia can be placed in rooms with a temperature within 8-10 degrees.

Light

Fuchsias of all types prefer to “live” in conditions with good lighting. But too intense, blinding light is viewed negatively. Therefore, they will be very grateful to you if you place them on the windowsill of an east or west window in your apartment or light partial shade in the garden. During the daytime, it must be protected from heat and sun, but this flower will perceive its morning and evening rays very well.
After the start of flowering, the fuchsia is not moved to another place or rotated. This will lead to the fall of its flowers and blooming buds

Watering rules

When growing fuchsia, it is of great importance proper watering. In spring, summer and autumn (until October) it should be abundant, in winter - moderate. Starting from mid-autumn, the frequency and amount of watering is reduced to a minimum. When advancing negative temperatures fuchsias are watered 1-2 times a month.

Top dressing

For this purpose, balanced liquid fertilizers for flowering plants. From the end of March until the onset of autumn, fuchsia is fertilized once a week. In autumn, the amount of feeding is reduced to once every three weeks, and in winter the flower is not fed.

It is necessary to replant fuchsia as it grows, when the container in which it is located becomes too small for it.. This will be indicated by the appearance of roots from the drainage hole. To plant plants, use a soil mixture consisting of humus, peat, compost soil, taken in equal quantities, with the addition of washed coarse river sand.

For better growth and development, fuchsia is regularly pinched. The first time - after rooting, and then - every spring, before flowering.

Winter care and pruning

Some inexperienced gardeners are afraid to grow a “dancing ballerina” at home, because they do not know how to properly care for fuchsia in winter. First of all, at this time you need to make correct pruning plants. This procedure is performed twice a year:

1. In October, after termination active growth and flowering, its faded shoots are cut to a height of about 2 cm from the dormant buds located in the axils of the flower. This also removes seed pods and wilted flower stalks.
2. In January. At this time, the final formation of the flower crown occurs.

To prepare fuchsia for the dormant period in winter, the amount of watering and fertilizing is gradually reduced, after which the pot with the plant is moved to a room with moderate humidity and a temperature of 8 to 10 degrees. For this purpose it is convenient to use glass balcony, loggia or even cellar.

To create more comfortable conditions a flower pot can be placed in a box with sawdust or insulated with polystyrene foam.

Keep in mind: if you decide to leave fuchsia for “wintering” on a window in a room with a working central heating, don't expect from her good growth and spectacular flowering in spring and summer. In winter, she needs peace and coolness.

Video

You can learn about the intricacies of fuchsia care from this video

Pest and disease control measures

Despite its unpretentiousness and endurance, the “dancing flower” has its natural enemies and pests. These include:

• Rust, manifested in the appearance of round brown spots at the bottom of the leaf blades. Diseased leaves must be removed to prevent damage to healthy shoots. After this, the plant is sprayed with Topaz.

fuchsia rust

• Chlorosis. Leads to yellowing of leaves. Occurs as a result of excessive waterlogging and lack of magnesium and nitrogen.“Treated” by adding appropriate minerals and reducing the amount of watering.

Fuchsia chlorosis

• Whitefly, which sucks nutritious juices from the leaves of the flower, causing them to turn yellow and fall off. In this case, the plants are washed with soap (if the leaves are still green) or treated with Actellik, Aktara, etc.

Whitefly infestation

• Spider mite. Appears during dry and hot periods. It manifests itself in the form of a slight yellowness that appears on the surface of the leaves. At the same time, their reverse side is covered with a yellow-white coating with small black and white dots. To combat the problem, the drugs “Fufanon”, “Fitoverm”, “Agravertin”, etc. are used.

The ancestors of fuchsia are exotic trees and bushes that grew exclusively in New Zealand and Central America. There are many varieties, but the encyclopedia gives only one Fuchsia hybrid or, in Russian, hybrid fuchsia.

Flowers homemade fuchsia They have the shape of small bells or, as flower growers say, Chinese lanterns. This variety of varieties can be divided into double and semi-double hybrids, the difference being the number of petals on the corolla.

Fuchsias are rich in many color range their colors: white, purple, ruby, red. There is still the possibility of observing a carpal hybrid - this is when the inflorescences of fuchsia flowers are collected in loose form.

Plant watering mode

Fuchsias, when grown at home, are a completely unpretentious plant. It is very easy to care for.

Watering seasonally:

1. Autumn-spring - abundant watering.
2. Winter - moderate watering. It is recommended to use settled water, as it is softer and healthier.
3. October-November - stop watering. At low air temperatures - no more than 2 times a month.

Lighting requirements

Any fuchsia requires bright diffused light. Location - East or West. Does not tolerate hot daylight, but is content with the morning rays of the sun. When the plant is flowering, it is better not to touch the plant, because the lovely flowers may fall off.

Temperature requirement

During the growing season, 18-25 degrees is enough. In the summer, especially in August, open ground will work well, but it will not be able to withstand more than 30 degrees (leaves and flowers may fall off or begin to dry out). Perfect solution- this is a balcony, terrace, loggia or something like that. To protect the roots from overheating, it is advisable to use large ceramic pots.

Fertilizer and top dressing for fuchsia

Spraying will have a very beneficial effect, especially during growth. This procedure should be done in the evening or in the morning. They also use a vessel filled with pebbles and water, which is placed next to the plants, thereby creating additional moisture.

Biofertilizers are very effective if the plant is in open ground. If the plant is indoors, then any additives or fertilizers for feeding will do. There is no need to feed the plants, more than once a week, this will be quite enough. In winter, the plant should not be fertilized; generally, the first fertilizing occurs around the end of March.

Fuchsia transplant

A houseplant needs to be replanted once a year and this is done in the spring. Any fertile soil is suitable for fuchsia, which, if you don’t have it at home, can be purchased at the store.

At best, it should include:

1. Drainage. Prevents the plant from gaining too much moisture.
2. Humus or sand. Used as an additional, useful additive.
3. Loam. Used if fuchsia is ground outdoors. Retains moisture.

When transplanting, shoots are cut off - 1/3 of the total length. Be sure to replant the fuchsia into a larger pot.

What is it for? This will give the plant an additional supply of oxygen and is also used as a method of propagation.

Reproduction:

1. Propagation using leaves;
2. Reproduction by seeds;
3. Propagation using cuttings.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

The main suitable period for such breeding is February-March, sometimes August-September. Length - 5-7 cm. For rooting, use a loose medium: water or sand. After approximately 20-25 days, the first, small roots appear, which means the time for transplanting into pots is 7-9 cm.

Compound: leaf and turf soil, humus and sand. Everything is combined 1:1. In order to get a lush bush, several cuttings are planted in one pot at once, so it is possible to get the first flowers already in the same year.

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds

For seed propagation, artificial pollination is used. By mixing several varieties at the same time, you can get many hybrids.

Propagation of fuchsia by leaves

This propagation occurs as follows: You need to carefully tear off the most developed leaves and place them in loose soil no more than 1 cm, then cover with a glass or plastic lid. With all this, in order to achieve good growth, it is necessary to spray them every day; for this procedure, use a spray bottle with boiled and warm water. Transplanting into pots begins as soon as the first rosettes appear.

The purpose of reproduction is to increase the number of plants.

Fuchsia - diseases and pests

Diseases, in the case of fuchsia, are very rare. At high humidity, dewdrops form on the leaves. If the leaves are covered with powdery spots, it is worth spraying the plant with a prepared composition: mix the foundation with water in equal parts.

Healthy leaves are always green leaves without any damage.

Yellow leaves are chlorosis, it occurs from an excess of water saturation or from a lack of magnesium and nitrogen.

Yellowness between the veins of the leaves - manganese is needed.

If the plant has suffered from the appearance of dry, brown spots, then molybdenum is needed.

Like a person - internal organs, so the roots of plants can say a lot about any diseases.

Healthy plants should have short and white roots. If I intertwine the roots with an earthen ball, it means that it needs to be transplanted into a larger pot than the previous one. If the roots are brown or any other dark color, almost black, then the whole point is that the fuchsia is suffering from root rot. Root rot appears if the plant constantly received a huge amount of water, most likely such a plant will not recover.

It’s strange to say, but fuchsia has a chance of getting so-called rust. You can recognize it by the brown circles on the leaf at the very bottom. Such leaves should be removed immediately to prevent further dissemination infections. Such a disease is infectious and can easily spread to healthy plants.

After removing infected leaves, it is imperative to disinfect the equipment that was used, as well as your hands. Be sure to spray 2-3 times every 10 days. For spraying the following are used: cuproxate, Bordeaux mixture, Vectra, Topaz, Strobi.

No less great harm can be caused by small, white flies, about 2 mm. Such flies are nothing more than moths. These flies lay eggs on the lower leaves, where larvae then form and suck out all the juices from the plants, leaving a sugary secretion.

Very badly damaged leaves turn yellow and fall off.