Nimfochka, Irina, weed everything carefully to the lawn. Everywhere they write that it is better to plant a lawn in early autumn or already in August-September. They planted this way and that and concluded that it was not necessary to plant the lawn in early autumn, because everything is activated at this time, the growing season and weeds climb ahead of the lawn. Our lucky experience was, oddly enough, in June and August. They prepared the soil (as I already wrote above, they carefully cut everything before planting the lawn), leveled it, it is necessary that the earth be drowned, and before planting, loosen it with a rake so that the seeds linger in the grooves. The seeds were mixed with sand and sown thickly. Then everyone covered the special. fabric, it is very, very thin, like a cobweb, it passes water well and prevents moisture from evaporating. When seeds germinate, they need to be watered frequently. It is good if you sow the seeds before precipitation. We guessed so often. Rains have a special energy of growth. How many times have I noticed that you water and water the plant, but it grows somehow, and when it rains, it starts to rage). But they also watered. Don't let the earth dry out. With good temperature and frequent watering, the seeds germinate in a week. Here we need to remove our fabric. And that's it, you will see a chic bristle lawn. Next care.
During the summer, water every other day in the evening or at night. We read that you can water the lawn in the morning until 10 am. Don't believe. The earth quickly dries out and the lawn does not have time to soak and turns yellow. That is, watering goes nowhere. We mow every week. This is also important. if you start and do not mow, then the lawn turns into green bumps and the carpet disappears. In the spring, the lawn grows faster and it happened that I had to mow twice a week. In summer, once is enough.
And the most interesting thing that we still do, every spring we thin out the roots of the lawn. Scientifically, this is called verticulation. Read about it on the Internet.
Everything in the complex gave us such a lawn) If you have any questions - ask) I will answer)
Saplings of fruit and berry crops Nursery My Tree
One of the best options for recreation, it is a walk and even work in your own garden. Flowers, trees and bushes that have been planted with my own hands and who have been carefully taken care of all the time - this is a great way to reconnect with nature and choose the best from it. A personal garden begins with a small one - with tree seedlings, thanks to which an adult plant grows.
Buy seedlings in Minsk you can in the online store, from the hands of private sellers and at gardening fairs. Purchase of future coniferous, deciduous, artisanal, fruit and berry trees in the store is profitable, because you are not only obliged to sell a quality product, but they can also advise the best technology planting, care and watering plants. Moreover, when buying in the online store, the seedling delivery service is connected, which is especially useful for bulk purchases. Buying plants "out of hand" is not always profitable, because there is a risk of falling for unscrupulous sellers who do not know what they are selling and how.
Find and Buy high-quality seedlings in Minsk exotic, common domestic plants are now easy. If you want to create your own "green corner", plant special varieties of berries or fruit trees- trust the professionals who select the best specimens among seedlings. The range of products will pleasantly surprise everyone, including not only fruit and berries, but also ornamental, shade-loving and other types of plants. Already looked after the required type? saw the new kind, which is not yet in the collection or which you have been looking for for a long time? Do you want to try something new and diversify the garden? We carry out sales that are profitable for the client at low prices with high level service. Delivery of seedlings is carried out in a short time.
You can buy seedlings from us both with a closed root system and with an open one. At closed system there is the possibility of a longer stay in a pot or container (as a rule, such plants grow in them or germinate to right size). We offer quality plant seedlings various types own production.
HYDENSIA proper planting and care in the open field PHOTO
We describe the planting and care of hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree-like, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Urals, Siberia and southern regions).
Planting hydrangeas in open ground: place, soil, distance and depth
- 1 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
- 1.1 Step-by-step instruction planting hydrangeas
- 1.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangeas? Spring or autumn?
- 1.3 Hydrangea care after planting
- 2 Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
- 2.1 Top dressing
- 2.2 Watering hydrangeas
- 3 Proper pruning hydrangeas: spring and autumn
- 3.1 Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
- 3.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
- 4 Caring for hydrangeas in the fall and preparing for winter
- 4.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
- 5 Diseases and pests
- 6 Why does the hydrangea not bloom in the garden? What to do?
- 6.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
- 7 Helpful Hints hydrangea care
The plant is heat-loving, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.
We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.
Landing place
Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in sunny and open space but strong sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she loves diffused light very much.
At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light penumbra, in this case it blooms later with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the afternoon. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west.
Soil and acidity
Hydrangea grows well in fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red soils, and sandy soils are contraindicated.
The optimum level of acidity is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of the inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.
Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by a light and pale color of the leaves.
Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with an iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron objects (nails, a can, a horseshoe).
When planting, a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers is prepared.
soil mix
Compound: humus, turf land, leaf land and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (chernozem), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. As well as nutrients: 20-25 grams (table + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).
If spruces and pines grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.
A complete ban - lime, chalk and wood ash.
landing distance
Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between the bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant a hydrangea in a row ( hedge, "mixborder"), then you can dig a trench 90-110 cm wide.
If you want to achieve earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years thin out the bushes if necessary.
landing pit
Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.
planting depth
The root neck should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm below, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.
Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or autumn?
Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in a cold climate is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.
Hydrangea care after planting
Preparing for flowering
For the first two years, cut off the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its efforts to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.
- Watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.
Caring for garden hydrangea: the secrets of growing
Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to mulch trunk circle for more moisture retention. Scatter sawdust, peat, needles or wood chips in a 7-8 cm layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.
top dressing
When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you can not feed them for the first two years. General rule fertilizing until July acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus (bone meal, superphosphate).
The plant's need for nutrients is high as it grows quickly and blooms powerfully.
Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: mullein infusion or bird droppings- 1:10. Repeat top dressing after 13-16 days.
- Not recommended for feeding wood ash. Fertilizers are well suited for heather species and rhododendron.
- Do not allow an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April-May.
- Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.
Watering hydrangeas
The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of sufficient moisture leads to impaired development.
In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is every 13-16 days 15-25 liters of water, and if it is rainy in summer, then 4-5 times per season.
The lack of moisture in autumn reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in autumn, then additional watering is required.
Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water is best for irrigation.
Watering better in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is desirable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.
Proper hydrangea pruning: spring and autumn
All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can be carried out only from 3-4 summer age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.
Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oak-leaved, Sargent and petiolate)
These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is that as soon as the buds swell a little, there is no active movement of juices, plus such pruned shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of garden hydrangea.
Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophila) cannot be cut, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch older than 3 years, especially growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems under the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving more decorative form improves flowering.
Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)
Exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.
- Petiole hydrangea is lightly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.
Group No. 2 (tree-like and paniculate)
These species that bloom on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. best moment: mid - end of March (as soon as the snow melted). Annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.
Adviсe
- To thin out the bush, completely remove old, weak and inward-growing shoots annually.
- Cut frozen stems to the first living bud.
Bush rejuvenation
It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from the ground level (“under the stump”) or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.
Should I prune hydrangeas for the winter?
In autumn, faded inflorescences are cut off from the hydrangea without fail so that the branches do not break under the weight of snow.
stamp form
Panicle hydrangea has the ability to grow in the form of a tree - a low trunk. Choose one of the most developed shoots on a biennial plant grown from apical cutting and cut off the rest. Then prune this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring until it reaches 100 cm in height.
To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are pruned annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.
An example of a standard form of paniculate hydrangea
Hydrangea care in autumn and preparation for winter
After flowering, autumn care for hydrangeas consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.
- Tree-like hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
- In the conditions of the Middle Strip, the Moscow Region, the North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig out the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
Since this species can be grown in those parts where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties, mentioned in the section - "cropping". - In more southern and warmer regions, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.
Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and decay.
Because leaves and flowers large-leaved hydrangea perish from small frosts at night, preparation for winter begins in the middle - end of October (after the first frosts).
- Hydrangea garden paniculata and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.
Preparing hydrangeas for winter 
Hydrangea shelter for the winter 
Upper layer winter shelter for hydrangeas
In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.
Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region
Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea
Young seedlings are not pruned, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or spud with earth and additionally cover 11-16 cm for the winter with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust.
When can I open hydrangea after winter?
In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.
Approximate terms for the Moscow region are indicated.
Winter hardiness of hydrangea
Now large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in conditions middle lane Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to different microclimates.
The plant withstands up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are tree-like, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.
The winter hardiness of the plant increases if it received enough water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus top dressing.
Diseases and pests
Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes everything affects it. powdery mildew, spider mite and aphids (often indoors).
Why is the hydrangea not blooming in the garden? What to do?
We list the most common reasons for the lack of flowering.
How to speed up the flowering of hydrangeas?
To make the bush bloom faster, spray it as soon as the inflorescences are 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.
How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil, and the ability to accumulate aluminum.
Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to carry out 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, they begin to water 50-70 days before flowering.
After that, white or pink flowers(weakly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to carefully use them. The price of 100 grams of alum is about 30-50 rubles.
- If you want to dry the hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after the blooming of all the flowers. Tie in small bundles and hang down with flowers in a dark place to dry.
- Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In autumn, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out on open air and leave until September.
- Experts advise planting ground cover species in the trunk circle: stonecrop, saxifrage moss and others.
ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:
1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HYDROANGIA: ALL WAYS!
2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDENSIA WITH PHOTOS AND NAMES!
We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!
So, you have purchased a paniculate hydrangea. When planting, be sure to keep in mind that this is a fairly large plant that can be grown as a shrub or small tree. The panicled hydrangea, formed in the form of a trunk, is also very effective.
In the year of planting, you should not cut the plant at all - let it take root in a new place. A year after planting, before the start of the growing season, take a closer look at your pet and decide how you will form it.
In order to get a two to three meter bush, select 3-5 of the strongest shoots directed in different directions, cut off the rest of the shoots. How many branches you leave and how they are located will depend appearance your plant. If you want a big, lush bush, you don't need to shorten the shoots until the plant is the right size. After that, shortening the shoots by one third annually will help the hydrangea form larger caps of flowers.
If small size your garden and the desire to have a lot different varieties paniculate hydrangea do not allow you to allocate enough space for each bush, you can form a hydrangea with a small bush. To do this, in the second year after planting (when planting in the fall - in the third year) in the spring, before the start of the growing season, make a low pruning, leaving 2 buds from the ground. It encourages education a large number new shoots growing from the ground itself. During the season, remove all weak shoots, as well as shoots growing inside the bush. You can leave 6-12 skeletal shoots on the plant. In the future, every spring, cut the branches by one third. In addition, with this method of plant formation, you will have compact shape bush, inflorescences will be much larger.
To form a paniculate hydrangea with a tree, choose one strong shoot, directed vertically. Cut out the rest of the shoots. Pinch off the side shoots coming from the main trunk throughout the season. At a height of 0.5 - 1 meter, select several (3-4) strong side shoots directed in different directions, in the form of a bowl. Carry out pruning of skeletal shoots for more lush flowering you can start when the tree reaches the desired shape.
When pruning hydrangeas, there is a lot of material for cuttings. Spring cuttings take root well and allow you to train in the formation of plants of various shapes.
Try to form one of the rooted cuttings in a standard form, and you will get a charming plant that catches the eye during flowering. True, it will take several years, but the result is worth it!
Choose the strongest and tallest rooted cutting. All shoots, except for the main one, are pinched several times for half the length during the first two years. Such shoots contribute to the formation of a strong central shoot. After two years, they need to be cut out completely. The main shoot is pruned annually to a well-developed bud.
When the main shoot reaches the desired height, they begin to form the crown. Having cut off the trunk, and form skeletal branches from the underlying 4-6 buds. In the early years, the trunk needs a strong support. Before winter, remove all inflorescences, in order to avoid breakage of branches under the weight of snow.
Standard plants in the garden have always attracted increased attention, as something extraordinary. It would seem that a completely standard rose or currant, but it grows in a completely different way than it should. And it is already difficult to call it a bush. Imagine: on a perfectly even high trunk there is a dense crown-cap or a cascade of falling branches. The most interesting thing is that a similar effect was achieved not by breeding new variety groups, but with the help of proper formation or grafting. Usually specialists are engaged in the cultivation of stems, and amateur gardeners acquire them already formed in nurseries. However, you can try and create a standard culture yourself - it's not too difficult if you know some of the nuances. We will talk about them now.
Of course, the most luxurious standard plants are flowering species: roses, hydrangeas, Japanese chaenomeles, budley. In the form of a trunk, Hungarian lilac and viburnum Buldonezh are also grown. If desired, and with a certain amount of perseverance, plants can also be turned into a neat tree, giving active root shoots, which will have to be removed regularly. Among such difficult species, the common lilac and mock orange are the most preferred.
Some ornamental leafy plants can also look very impressive in the form of a bole. For example, goat willow has a luxurious weeping crown, which in early spring covered with fluffy flowers-earrings. The Japanese willow with a variegated crown tending upwards will also unusually decorate the garden. Mountain ash, maple, ash, gooseberry, currant and many other species are grown as stems.
An alley of standard lindens in autumn is an incredible sight
So far, standard forms are not very common. coniferous plants- spruce, pine, arborvitae, larch, cypress. Therefore, if you want to be original - choose to decorate Alpine slide or their front garden.
Obtaining a stem with the help of shaping
The easiest way, if you are a person who is far from gardening delights, is to try to create a trunk by forming a trunk and cutting off the crown. This method will require a significant amount of time, but the result will meet the wildest expectations.
To bring this idea to life, it is important to choose the right young seedling. planting material should be as even as possible, without knots. Immediately after landing, its trunk is tied to a vertical support - a wooden or metal peg driven into the ground.
Further, as it grows, it is necessary to tie the growing top to the support, and all side shoots ruthlessly delete. This procedure continues until the trunk reaches the desired height. Only then can you pinch the apical shoot so that the crown begins to grow. Very quickly, young shoots will begin to appear near the pinching point, which, as they grow, also need to be pinched. Then the crown will turn out thick and fluffy.
Vaccination is another opportunity to get a beautiful bole
In this case, a scion is grafted onto the stock, which will serve as a trunk, - the future crown. First you need to decide on the stock. Usually this is a plant of the same botanical genus as the cultivated part, but genetically stronger. For example, a rose is traditionally grafted onto a wild rose, a weeping elm is grafted onto a rough elm, etc. You can go a more complicated way, "crossing" related plants different types, for example, a scion of a pear easily takes root on a mountain ash trunk, and a scion of a Siberian cedar - on a pine. Such mixes can enter the fruiting period much earlier, for example, a pear on a mountain ash trunk bears fruit already 2-3 years after planting.
In order to get a beautiful stem plant by grafting, a stem is first grown. They do this in the same way as with the shaping method, that is, the seedling is tied to a support, the side shoots are removed and they wait until it grows to the required height. After that comes the time of grafting using a suitable cutting. cultivated plant, on which there are 3-4 living kidneys. It is best to carry out this process in early to mid-April. To do this, cut off the top of the bole trunk with a sharp knife, and then on this cut in the middle they make another vertical incision - a split.
At this time, an oblique cut is made on the scion handle above the upper kidney, and a wedge is formed from the lower part with two oblique cuts. The resulting wedge, carefully so as not to damage the trunk, is inserted into the split and the junction is tied with plastic tape. In order for the top of the cutting not to start to rot, the cut is treated with garden pitch.
After a month, the buds should awaken on the accustomed cuttings, from which young shoots will go. They need to be monitored and pinched in time to form a beautiful crown. Already at the end of the second season, if the seedling is properly cared for, you will receive a well-formed bole that you can be proud of.
In fact, creating such a miracle is not difficult, but it takes time and patience. If you have all this, try growing a standard plant and it will definitely become a precious pearl in your garden.
Hydrangea is a real decoration of our garden. But rarely does anyone have a charming standard tree in their garden. I always wanted to grow such a miracle with my own hands. The most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties of hydrangeas are paniculate and tree-like. Proven to be the best tree hydrangea. With minimal care, it grows, winters without shelter, blooms profusely every year. Beautiful inflorescences reach 30 cm in diameter, creamy white, pink-burgundy. Hydrangea paniculata reaches 2 meters in height. Blooms in July-September, inflorescences resemble lilac inflorescences. At the beginning of flowering they are white, and closer to autumn they acquire a pink-raspberry hue. Some varieties smell. 
We choose a seedling and plant it separately. For 3-4 years we have been paying increased attention to it - we are engaged in pinching and trimming the selected hydrangea. 
To nurture the stem of the selected plant, the main shoot goes from the base, which will be the stem. We pinch the remaining shoots in the summer 1-2 times. This method increases the diameter of the hydrangea trunk, so such branches are called thickening shoots. And when they fulfill their role, they are then cut into a ring in June. Every year, at the beginning of a new hydrangea growth, the "leader" shoot is shortened to a well-developed bud. At a height of 1-1.5 m, a crown of standard hydrangea is laid. To do this, the stem is cut off, and skeletal branches develop from several buds (4-5) located below the cut.
The crown is formed the following year. For this leave
on all obtained annual shoots of the plant, pr 2-5 pairs of eyes. Repeat this operation for the next 1-2 years, until a "tree" with a strong stem and a beautiful crown is obtained from the selected hydrangea seedling. After landing on permanent place branches should still be deleted regularly. It is necessary to follow not only
In my pruning lectures ornamental plants I talk in some detail about the formation of a tree hydrangea, which has long become popular and beloved among our gardeners. Lately, however, gardeners have increasingly become interested in the formation of another hydrangea - paniculate, so I think it's time to talk about it.
Paniculata hydrangeas have long been known in culture. The very first garden cultivarGrandiflorabegan its march through countries and continents in 1860. It is not surprising that it is he who is the most common. It has many advantages - it is frost-resistant, unpretentious, grows quickly, blooms beautifully, multiplies easily, lives long.
However, there are still disadvantages. And the main one is strongly decumbent, fast-growing young shoots that are not able to stay right under the weight of large and heavy inflorescences. In winter, young shoots may not withstand the weight of snow and ice and break. As a result, many gardeners have come to the conclusion that it is better to spend several years on the formation of a bush than to correct its sloppy shape all the time.
FOR PROFESSIONAL FLOWERING
Hydrangea paniculata forms inflorescences on the branches of the first order. In order for such shoots to become more, before the start of the growing season, the bushes must be severely cut annually. This stimulates branching, and therefore abundant flowering.
Prune early in spring, before buds open. If you are late with this, then the plant develops poorly and sometimes does not even bloom. If everything is done correctly, then the hydrangea blooms this year, forming lush inflorescences up to 40 cm long at the end of each shoot.
First of all, weak and thickening shoots should be completely removed. Do not be afraid to cut off frozen shoots. If cut back to healthy wood, they will flower the same year. The remaining annual shoots are shortened, leaving 3-5 pairs of buds.
The number of inflorescences increases every year. So, at 5 years old, a hydrangea will have about 30 inflorescences, at 6 years old - 60, at 13 years old already 375! The inflorescences preserved on the bush should be cut in late autumn so that the branches are not broken by snow. However, some gardeners prefer to leave everything as it is, as they believe that the hydrangea then hibernates better.
The shrub reproduces well by cuttings that remain after spring pruning. Of these, cuttings are harvested with 4 - 5 buds, put for 2 days in a weak solution of a root formation stimulator, and planted in a nursery in a looseacidic soil to a depth of two buds.
BUSH FORM
If you prefer to grow hydrangea paniculata in the form of a bush, then you should not waste time and let it get neglected. Correcting such bushes is quite difficult. It is best to form a bush while it is young.
Usually panicled hydrangea, propagated by cuttings, goes on sale either after the first or after the second wintering. It is better not to touch the one-year-old, but to let it take root and prove itself. The following year, she may already have leading shoots. Depending on their nature, you need to decide whether you can do the shaping or not.
To begin with, you should choose from 3 to 5 shoots growing at an angle of about 30 ° to the vertical. All others should be cut for the first few years until your leading shoots are thick and hard enough to withstand any snow.
The size of the bush boles can be different. It depends on the size of the growth of lateral branches. After all, the main task in the formation of the bush form is to raise the flowering part of the bush above the ground. So, if the annual growth of branches is about one meter, then the trunk should also be about the same - otherwise the inflorescences will lie on the ground. In order to point these stems in the direction you choose, straight without bending, you can attach them to supports driven in at the desired angle.
After you have completed the formation of boles, you can already allow the bush to begin branching. In the future, all side branches should be shortened to 2 - 4 buds every spring and cut off all root shoots. Old bushes can be rejuvenated by pruning on perennial wood or on a stump. After that, the decorativeness of the bush is restored in the second year.
STAMP FORM
A very decorative hydrangea is paniculate, grown on a trunk in the form of a tree. Perennial shoots become woody, covered with a thick layer of bark and are no longer able to form new shoots. This is the basis for the idea of forming paniculate hydrangea into a tree. The formed stem part ceases to give lateral shoots, and only the top continues its development - branching and growth.
The tree is grown in the following way. Among the rooted cuttings, the strongest and tallest are chosen, planted separately, and for 3-4 years they are engaged in the upbringing of the bole.
Hydrangea Grandiflora, grown in standard form in the Botanical Garden of St. Petersburg
In addition to the main shoot coming from the base, all the rest should be pinched in the summer in one or two doses. This contributes to an increase in the diameter of the stem, so such branches are called thickening shoots. When they fulfill their function, they should be cut out in June "on the ring." Annually, at the beginning of the growing season, the leading shoot is shortened to a well-developed bud.
At a height of 1 - 1.5 m, a crown is laid. Choose 4 - 5 buds, from which they form skeletal branches. The stem is now pruned annually, and the branches below begin to shorten each spring to create a dense crown. In subsequent years, do not forget to clean the bole from the lower newly formed side shoots so that the energy of the plant in the future is directed only to the upper branches that form the crown.
We can clearly distinguish the skeleton of a standard hydrangea tree
Different varieties differ in the nature and speed of growth of branches. Therefore, depending on what kind of paniculate hydrangea you are forming, you must choose either a weeping or upright tree shape. For weeping varieties, the trunk is made higher - 1.3 - 1.5 m, to make room for falling branches. For upright varieties such as Kuishu or Tardiva, the main trunk is usually cut at a height of 0.9 - 1.0 m.
Sergei Tarnuev
