Clamps are used to tightly press certain surfaces against each other (pulling,). Accordingly, carpentry clamps are used when working with wood and wooden surfaces. For those found in retail trade, the frame is most often made of light metals, and such clamps often bend and become unusable. And the size of such clamps is no more than 2 meters. What if you need it to press large “surfaces”? After all, when gluing, say, dimensional sheets of plywood, the quality of the connection depends not only on the clamping force, but also on the uniformity of pressure over the entire plane.
Of course, you can use several clamps. But still, this does not guarantee an excellent result. Another option is to purchase a sliding model, but its cost makes you think about other options. But they exist. Let's consider two, since they are the simplest.
Making clamps and materials
To make a homemade clamp (universal, not just for carpentry), we need a channel. Its length depends on the maximum “dimensions” of the material to be worked with. You also need to think about the future if you have to use such a clamp often. Along the center line of the channel it is necessary to mark the locations for the holes. A bolt welded to a small piece of channel (stop) will be inserted into them. With help welding machine The holes are easy to cut. For a tighter “fit” of the stop, such a “nest” must be made teardrop-shaped (like a keyhole for old door locks).
A bolt is welded to a small section of the channel. The size of the bolt head must be such that it can be inserted into the socket. Everything, the emphasis is ready. Now you need to find a thick screw, weld some kind of “eye” for it at one end of the long channel, and the clamping device is ready.
This homemade clamp is convenient to use when working with large parts, for example, when making doors. However, you can use two small clamps for gluing large surfaces.
In this case, a flexible insert should be used. Its material should be quite rigid, and its plane should be slightly curved. Its ends are pressed with two small clamps to the sheets to be glued, and the plane of the insert itself evenly presses on the entire surface to be glued.
There are many options for self-clamps. They are made based on what they are needed for (for permanent work or “once”), as well as what size parts will have to be glued together.
Every craftsman who deals with products and parts made of metal or wood cannot do without homemade clamps. Previously, such a tool was produced in various modifications, from specialized to universal. The main task is to fix the workpiece for processing and joining operations. Let's figure out how it's made quick clamp with your own hands in various variations.
Angle clamp
This type of do-it-yourself metal clamp is designed to fix two objects at right angles and connect them to each other using any methods, however, the main purpose is as a jig for welding metal parts at the angle required for work. To make it properly , you will need the following components:
Corners should be welded at 90 degrees to metal or steel plates. We attach the worm-type structure by welding, and screw a pin-driver into the working nut in order to assemble a stop at the end. The stop must turn freely. Then with reverse side it is necessary to drill a hole where we insert a metal rod as a lever. Incredible simple design and practicality of use have become the key to the popularity of such a clamp among everyone who works with metal and products made from it.
Joiner's clamp
Such designs used in carpentry, are of the following types:
- Standard clamp, which is the most popular or simple;
- In the form of a caliper for small parts and quick fixation;
- Self-clamping clamp for milling processes and working with workpieces of various heights.
The first type is made from two pine blocks, a locking nut, rods, threaded wing nuts and thrust washers. The manufacturing process is very simple:
- We cut out the working pliers from the bars, drill holes for the studs, taking into account a small amount of play;
- We screw in the studs and lock them using appropriate methods;
- We ensure alignment with nuts, made either in the form of wings or standard nuts for improved tension.
The second option is used when prompt fixation of small parts is necessary. Production is carried out from small bars and thin-sheet plywood. Furniture nuts and collar pins act as a worm system. One stop is stationary; we attach it to the end of the guide rail, in which we cut out recesses to fix the moving mechanism.
There are both portable and stationary versions of this design, where grooves are cut for movement with the fastening of fixed stops. The clamp is a furniture nut, a hairpin and a knob. Due to this, you can work with workpieces of any size.
The self-clamping design has a lever with an eccentric at the rotating end. We turn it at a certain angle, a quick clamp is automatically obtained. The height is adjusted with a pin on the workbench. It is made individually for each matrix, depending on its purpose and the purpose of the work being carried out.
Pipe clamp
Welding metal pipes end to end is a complex operation. It is considered simpler to weld the pipe to the finished system. The design for such cases is made of a metal angle and steel plates. The halves of such a device should be fixed using the traditional method, namely with threaded rods. As a result, you can get a fairly simple and effective design, which will greatly facilitate the work when welding pipes with various designs.
There are other types of designs, including cam mechanisms, tape and wire clamps, which can be useful for working with specific structures, including particularly fragile and thin ones. However, their production is the subject of separate master classes and articles on specialized resources.
Homemade clamps are indispensable assistants for any craftsman working with metal and wooden parts and products. Making them is quite simple and very exciting. Here it is important to follow the manufacturing technology, find the best instructions and videos. You can buy clamps, but they may ultimately not be suitable due to the specificity of the workpiece or work. This is why you should make your own clamps. Good luck working with various workpieces and making homemade quick-release clamps!
Hi all brains! In today's project we will make with your own hands wooden clamp.
All elements used have standard size and can be enlarged to make a clamp bigger size. This will give you a set of several clamps!
You may not have any special equipment like I do - don't worry about that! Almost any problem can be solved in one way or another, any craft can be improved. I made 3 prototypes before getting the perfect clamp for myself. Don't be afraid to experiment and make mistakes!
Step 2: Materials Used
In this project, a set of four clamps is made, but the volume of materials is indicated for one clamp. Just multiply by the number of clamps you require and get the amount of materials you need.
— Wood hard rocks wood 1.9 cm thick and at least 2.5 cm wide (I used pecan wood)
— 1/2 inch steel rod (12mm)
- 1/4 inch pin 20 threads per inch
— 1/2 inch nuts (12mm) x2 pcs.
- 3/32" spring pins (2.38mm) 3/4" (19mm) long x2 pcs.
You will also need a 1/4" 20 TPI tap for the barrel nuts, and a drill bit for a 13/64" (5mm) tap.
Step 3: Splitting the Wood Piece
The best way I have found to make something is to try to make all the required parts in one operation. So first, cut the material needed for the jaws and handles. The handles are made from a 3/4" by 3/4" (19x19mm) square piece, and the jaws will be 1" by 3/4" (25x19mm).
Step 4: Cutting the Handles
Set your machine to a 33 degree angle to cut the handle blank to the desired shape. You can use a 1/2 inch nut as a spacer to get the thickness you need.
I used my band cutter for this task. Just go around one side, then flip from one side to the other and make a second cut. This will ensure that one side you cut will have a hexagonal shape. Next, trim the second side in the same way.
When finished, move your machine back 90 degrees and cut the handle blank to 2 1/2 inches (64mm) long.
Step 5: Clamp jaw blanks
Now cut off a corner on the jaws. Cut as you wish. I cut my miter a little long and then used it to cut a 15 degree miter on one side for the other pieces.
For those of you who like to use a bevel to cut, consider that the slope of the line (steepness) is 2 inches (50mm) by 2 3/4 inches (70mm). The angle is installed at 1/2" (12mm) spacing or centered in a 1" (25.4mm) piece. I recommend cutting the corner first, then cutting the jaws to 4 inches (102mm). This way there is less chance of making a mistake.
When finished, mark A and B on the jaw halves.
Step 6: Drilling Jaw A
Start with Jaw A. Drill two 1/2" (12mm) holes through one side and two 1/4" (6mm) holes through the top.
The first 1/2" (12mm) diameter hole is located 3/4" (19mm) from the back and is centered in the jaw blank. The second hole is located 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back of jaw A. Two 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes are located in the center of the top of jaw, 3/8" (9.5mm) from each side and intersect with the centers of the 1/2 inch (12mm) diameter holes.
Step 7: Sponge B
Sponge B is slightly different from sponge A. It does not have drilled holes 1/2" (12mm) in diameter, and the 1/4" (6mm) diameter hole in the back is only 1/2" (12mm) deep.
Place Jaw B in the same manner as Jaw A previously, drill 1/4" (6mm) diameter holes 3/4" (19mm) and 1 3/4" (44mm) from the back. Be careful not to drill the entire passage through the back hole like I did. That's why I labeled the sponges A and B.
Step 8: Threaded Studs
Take good hacksaw metal and cut a 1/4 inch (6mm) threaded rod into the required length. You will need a 4 1/2" (114mm) blank and a 5" (127mm) blank for each clamp you make. Put them aside for now, we will return to them at the stage of making handles.
Step 9: Roll Nuts
Cylinder nuts are drilled steel round blanks with 90 degree threads inside them.
I made mine by cutting 1/2" (12mm) long stock into 3/4" (19mm) long pieces, then drilled the holes and tapped the threads with a 1/4" (20 thread) tap.
Step 10: Creating Chamfers on the Clamp Handles
All handles will have a chamfer on one end. It makes them appearance more attractive, removes sharp edges, and makes them easier to hold in the hand.
If you have strong hands, then use a sharp chisel to create chamfers. Simply clamp the handles as shown in the photo and trim the edges to 1/8 inch (3mm).
Step 11: Continue finishing the handles
In order for the handles to accept a 1/2" nut, they must be cut to a diameter slightly larger than the hole in the nut so that the threads of the nut will engage securely with the wood surface and create a secure connection. This is where it would come in handy lathe on wood, but in the absence of one, you will have to do it manually.
Press the fence block against the saw guard and use a 1/2-inch nut to adjust the depth of cut to ensure the desired distance from the fence. Next, take a piece of wood and make the necessary cuts.
As a result, you should end up with a design that looks a little like the Jewish Star of David. After this, cut off the excess protrusions.
Step 12: Handles and Corner Removal
The 1/2 inch nuts will not fit on the handles unless you file the corners on them. On at this stage Practice on some unnecessary workpiece, and only after that use a real pen.
Clamp the handles and grind until you get a perfect round shape.
Next, screw the nut onto the tip of the handle. Do this carefully.
Step 13: Finishing the Handles
Thread two 1/4 inch (6mm) nuts onto the threaded rod until it is securely seated in the jig. Next, round off the ends using a metal file so that the handle moves smoothly. Make sure that at least one inch of material protrudes from clamping device, then screw the wooden handle as far as possible. Use wrench for tightening to the base and alignment with the handle. Do not overtighten, lower the nut until it stops, and then align it with the handle.
Finally, you need to insert the pin into the handle. Drill a 3/32-inch (2.38mm) hole in the center of the nut, threaded rod, and tap the pin in with a hammer.
Step 14: Shutdown
Well, that's almost all. You have made all the necessary preparations. Now they need to be connected all together to get a completed product. We just need to sand the surfaces to remove sharp edges, edges and apply finishing coat. This is the most enjoyable simple step to follow.
Put on rubber gloves and rub some drying oil into the surface, then complete the process by rubbing wooden surface wax, and enjoy the result!
I hope you enjoyed this project. You can also upgrade a manufactured clamp to clamp different sized items.
The corner clamp and other models of this device belong to the assistant tools that are necessary for fixing parts during processing or for tightly compressing parts together, for example, during the gluing process.
Carpentry clamps are made from metal and wood. Some elements for non-stationary fastenings may also be called clamps, but this is incorrect. Meat grinders have a similar fixation, desk lamp, vices and the like. The main difference between the clamp is that, having installed it on the surface, you can work with both hands, although Lately Models have appeared that allow you to use only one hand.
There is a type of these devices called lever ones. They differ in that they are based not only on a system of axes, but also on levers. They are often called clamps or clamps, as well as quick-clamping devices, systems for quick fixation. All you need to do is apply a little force, and a decent clamping force is instantly created. In order to quickly secure a part, you only need to perform one movement - move the clamping handle. The simplest manual clamp consists of a main frame or bracket and moving elements with clamps; this can be either a screw or a lever. Its purpose is not only to fix the moving part, but also to adjust the compression force.
The main difference between different models of clamps is their mechanism. Therefore, the following classes are often distinguished:
- screw;
- installation;
- corner;
- quick-release;
- manual.
When choosing this tool, you need to pay attention to the working stroke, as well as the distance to which the locking elements can move apart. The most practical devices are those that have the highest listed indicators. With larger parameters, larger parts can be used in the work; dimensions may vary different models from 20 to 350 mm. Now let's say a few words about each type of clamp.
Screw-type devices are distinguished by the fact that they have a screw and the handle is T-shaped. When turning the handle, the jaws begin to compress, and when rotating in the opposite direction, they begin to unclench. Such clamps are often used to secure pipes when working with plumbing fixtures. Angle clamp used to support product blanks at right angles. This can be a variety of locksmith work. They are considered very durable because duralumin is used for their production, and they are convenient for metalwork because they have special mounting holes so that it is possible.
The design of such clamps is good for holding frame elements or corners, as well as other similar parts while gluing them.
The mounting clamp is designed to fasten and clamp reinforced concrete slabs and other materials that are used in the construction of buildings or structures. For this work, clamps are made from special durable metals. This allows them to be used for securing structures with heavy weight during construction or repair work. Although it performs complex and responsible work, the design of such a clamp is very simple, the drawing clearly indicates this. It is considered the most reliable.
Workers without special qualifications can easily handle its use and repair. This type of device is also used to secure pipes and other communication elements. With their help, you can securely secure round or oval parts with different diameters. The main difference between this type of clamp is that there are several attachment points, so working with them will ensure a reliable connection of the pipeline pieces, and the structure will be well prepared for welding work.
Quick-release clamps are called the most effective. Often when working with parts there are cases of their displacement due to force.. It’s good if the reaction is immediate, and you can move the clamp handle with your hand and lock it more securely. Therefore, quick-release clamps have linings attached, and the system of axes and levers allows you to operate the clamp with only one hand.
A hand clamp is also called a spring clamp. It has two handles, and if you move them apart, the main clamping parts will also instantly move apart, and when performing the reverse actions, they will close together and fix any object. Due to the existing spring mechanism, the user's efforts are greatly reduced. This type of clamp is used when it is necessary to glue small parts or hold small objects made of non-solid materials: cardboard, wood, plastic. In addition to the main types of clamps, there are also unique or highly specialized ones. There are also a lot of them, the following options are often found: cam, wedge, corner, with deep grooves, special for chairs.
How to make a clamp - we create the tool ourselves
If you want your own clamp to help you in your work, we will try to make an option with our own hands that has the simplest design.
Step 1: Selecting the details
Before you start assembling this device, you need to see if your home pantry has everything you need. For manufacturing you need: a pair of studs, where the thread is about two hundred millimeters long and the diameter is about five millimeters; a pair of studs, where the cross-section is the same as the first ones, and the length is about 120 mm; nuts of suitable size; a pair of plywood boards measuring 15x150x200 mm; a pair of slats measuring 20x40x240 mm (it is advisable to use blocks made of non-soft wood).
Step 2: Assembling the base
Homemade clamps are usually attached to the surface of the desktop. Therefore, bars are taken that are prepared for fastening. A pair of holes are drilled on them so that the nuts and studs are pressed very tightly against each other. In order for the device to be stable and durable, the lower beam must be placed tightly on a horizontal plane, that is, flat, and the upper beam must be placed on the contrary with its edge towards the table top. Then you need to install plywood boards and attach a block to them, which will be attached to the surface of the table. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the bottom edge of the boards is at least 3 cm below the block. All these elements, and there are three of them, are drilled through. They will be needed to insert the studs a little later.
Step 3: Making the Clamp
One plank must be firmly fixed to the bottom bar. The second board will act as a clamp. This design will carry out the grip using a movable plywood strip, and with the help of short pins the clamp will be attached to the table surface. Long pins are needed to determine the working stroke, and nuts are needed to fix the moving part and adjust the clamping force. Their role in this design is to be levers. You have learned how to make a clamp, but you should understand that homemade tools have low level strength. But for doing simple housework they will be good helpers.
The clamp is an auxiliary tool , which is used to fix the boards when they are connected in a given position. The clamp is also suitable for holding boards while sawing them, for routing the hacksaw blade, and connecting various elements. Parts that require machining can be inserted into the tool. Then, using a movable element, they are clamped with jaws and begin to work. To securely hold parts in the desired position, it is recommended to use two or more clamps.
Homemade clamps are often made of metal or wood, and in terms of their characteristics they are not much inferior to purchased, factory-assembled ones. Since the design of the clamping device is simple, it will not be difficult to understand the principle of its operation in order to make it yourself.
Making a metal screw clamp
Before starting work, you will need to prepare necessary materials. For the base of the structure, a steel sheet one centimeter thick, or any even trim of the same thickness, is suitable. The length of the workpiece is arbitrary, but they try to choose it taking into account the working distance of the clamp.
Main materials of manufacture:
- steel sheet;
- long bolts;
- nuts.
A drawing is being drawn up. The future body of the tool is marked on the workpiece material, which in appearance resembles the letter “C”. Instead of a steel sheet, you can use a section of profiled pipe, bent in the shape of the letter “C”. There are no special requirements for the thickness of the workpiece, but the design must be reliable. The choice of length is made taking into account the dimensions working area, processed parts.
After marking is applied, the part is cut out of metal. At home preparations small sizes can be cut using a grinder. But when making clamps of large dimensions, it is recommended to use cutting torch, acetylene torch. The next stage is processing and polishing the workpiece. All sharp edges, sags formed when working with gas welding equipment are knocked off with a file, and the surface is polished sandpaper. This must be done so that when clamping the workpieces, you do not cut yourself on sharp edges.
Having prepared long bolts M 8, M 10, proceed to fastening the moving element. Why are nuts welded on one side of the workpiece under the selected bolts? If there are no bolts, you can select hexagons or steel rods required length with pre-cut threads.
At the inner working end of the screw, a flat, even part is welded, on which the function of the jaws is assigned. On the reverse side of the screw, a lever is attached by welding from scraps of a stud. Its presence will speed up the process of clamping workpieces , further reducing the amount of effort applied. This completes the assembly of the clamp with your own hands.
Corner clamp device
When making corner tools for furniture assembly, it is important to accurately maintain a right angle of 90°. Main available materials are corners with steel strips. To work you will need:
- 40 mm steel angle 3-4 mm thick;
- steel plates 40-50 mm;
- threaded studs;
- rods for gates;
- nuts;
- welding machine;
- electric drill, taps.
The corner clamp is the most difficult to manufacture, but when carrying out some types of work you cannot do without it. On initial stage Corners are welded to the steel plates at right angles, and nuts are attached to each corner, which will serve to create a worm-type structure. Another option is to drill a hole in the corner and cut it using a tap. internal thread. The width of the working gap is selected taking into account the size of potential workpieces, but too large a stroke of the clamping wheel reduces the strength of their fixation.
To process parts of different sizes, it is recommended to prepare several clamps!
The stud is screwed into the welded nut. At its end, a stop is assembled from metal washers of various diameters, which should rotate freely when the pin rotates. On the back side of the knob, a hole is drilled for a metal rod. Used as a lever, it will transmit more force, so it will hold workpieces more reliably.
Wooden clamp - made from leftover boards
The most popular is a wooden quick-release clamp, but a tool of a similar design can also be made of metal. Despite the simplicity of the design, it is very convenient when performing various tasks.
The presence of two identical clamps expands the scope of their application!
For assembly you will need to prepare the following materials:
- pieces of boards;
- studs with pre-cut threads;
- nuts and wings corresponding to the threads of the studs;
- slats.
First, two studs of the same diameter with threaded threads are prepared. They must be 200 mm long. The nuts are matched to the threads of the studs. Two slats are prepared, preferably from hardwood. Best choice there will be oak, beech, birch, ash. The slats are adjusted to the same size. To do this, the excess length is sawed off and the cut is sanded. After this, two holes are drilled in each of the slats with a small tolerance. Moreover, the locations of the holes on each of the workpieces must match perfectly, and their diameter must correspond to the diameter of the studs.
Strips of plywood can be glued to the surface of the slats. They are adjusted to the size of the wooden blanks and holes are drilled. The studs are inserted into the resulting holes and securely fixed with nuts on one of the rails on both sides. To prevent material from pushing through, washers are placed under the nuts. This bar will always be stationary, but the other one will be able to move freely along the guides in the form of pins.
Another bar is installed. To do this, thread it through the studs and push it into place. The clamping is carried out using ordinary nuts and an open-end wrench, but for convenience and increased performance it is necessary to install wing nuts. Check the movement of the fastener; if it is difficult or additional adjustment of parts is required, or other defects are found, then they are eliminated. The work on assembling the wooden clamping device can be considered completed; all that remains is to test it in action.
Properly assembled clamping devices allow secure fastening wooden parts when carrying out carpentry work. The designs of the listed types of fasteners are popular and are so simple that they can be made independently from scrap materials using minimum quantity tools.
