Pelargonium: cultivation, care, reproduction. Is this flower poisonous? Feeding and fertilizers for pelargonium

Beauty, long flowering, medicinal properties, easy care- this is all a description of the properties of one plant. Without a doubt, every lover of home flowers will want to see this combination on their windowsill. Pelargonium is so beloved by flower growers that it is difficult to imagine a home “flowerbed” without it.

Pelargonium is a herbaceous perennial from the geranium family. This flower is often called geranium, but geranium is a frost-resistant plant that is grown in the garden, pelargonium is a houseplant.

The history of this flower began with South Africa. It was from there that the plant was brought to Holland, and then to France and England. Very quickly, because of its beauty and ease of care, pelargonium became popular among gardeners. The name literally translates as “stork’s beak”, because the fruits of the plant are similar to the beak of this bird.

The aroma of pelargonium is considered antibacterial and soothing, and people believe that this flower brings mutual understanding to the family.

Caring for pelargonium at home

When purchasing pelargonium, you should pay attention to the condition of the bush and inflorescences. Even if the plant is free of diseases and pests, it needs to be quarantined at home. Pelargonium is not whimsical plant, but there are still some care features, which, if observed, will result in juicy and long-lasting flowering.

Do I need to replant pelargonium after purchase?

Since stores usually sell flowers in disposable containers and with unsuitable soil, it makes sense to replant the plant, but only if the pelargonium does not bloom. For planting, you should use a mixture of sand, turf and leaf soil, humus (1: 2: 2: 2).

If you don’t want to bother with preparing the soil, you can use a regular flower nutrient mixture, which is sold in stores. Subsequently, pelargonium should be replanted once a year in autumn or spring. If the pot becomes small, then it is changed. But it is important to know that pelargonium from a larger pot will go green and will not produce flowers.

Lighting for pelargoniums

For abundant flowering of pelargonium, good lighting is needed. Because in the shade it grows and does not throw out buds, or does not bloom for long. To provide the plant required amount light, choose sunny window sills, especially do not place the flower on the table in dark room. If you still want to decorate the interior, place the beauty next to the south window.

Content temperature

Almost all pelargoniums should undergo winter dormancy. The optimal temperature for this is 10°C. If during this period you do not adhere to temperature regime, then you can’t wait for the buds. During wintering, if brown edges of the leaves are found, this is a signal that the temperature is low. The pot should be moved away from the glass.

Pelargonium should not be overheated; if the summer sun hits it at lunchtime, the plant should be shaded. For healthy growth, the optimal temperature is from 18C to 25C. Outdoors, pelargonium tolerates sunny weather well.

Watering and air humidity

In summer, regular and abundant watering is needed, but it is important to ensure that the water does not stagnate. When planting, you need to pay attention to good drainage. These could be sea pebbles or broken brick. Expanded clay will also do an excellent job with this role. Pots must have drainage holes to allow excess water to drain away.

The signal for watering will be dry soil. In hot summers, water twice, early in the morning and in the evening. In winter, watering is reduced to once a week or even twice. You cannot moisten or spray the leaves, as this will damage the plant. Water the pelargonium at the root, being careful not to get it on the leaves. To ensure good aeration of the root system and prevent rotting, the soil should be loosened periodically. If watering pelargonium is incorrect, it will let you know about it with brown circles on the leaves.

Top dressing

Pelargonium needs constant feeding. The exception is winter, that is, a period of rest. In spring and summer, fertilizer should be applied once every two weeks.

Pelargonium is fed with minerals. For the healthy development of a plant, 3 components are needed - potassium, magnesium, nitrogen. There are ready-made complexes with additional additives on sale. If fertilizers are made independently, then the same parts of minerals are taken, but before flowering the nitrogen composition is reduced and the potassium content is increased.

To increase the number of buds, flower growers add iodine. To do this, you need to take 1 drop of iodine per 1 liter warm water. There is 50 ml of solution per bush. Water along the wall of the pot to avoid burns.

Fertilizers are a very important component in caring for pelargonium, but it is important not to overfeed the plant. If the leaves begin to turn yellow, the dose should be adjusted.

Growing pelargonium from seeds

• Considering that the seeds are quite large, it is best to plant one seed at a time in separate cups.
• Planting depth is 0.5-1 cm.
• Some gardeners still prefer to save space on the windowsill at first by planting pelargonium seeds in boxes or large containers in order to later plant the seedlings into separate containers. in this case the distance is at least 2 cm.
• The soil can be used universally for potted plants.
• Experienced gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in a growth stimulator for a couple of hours before planting. This will give an additional incentive: they will sprout faster, the seedlings will be more powerful.
• Seedlings are germinated at room temperature, in a well-lit room.

The sprouts should be cared for by periodically watering and monitoring the temperature at 20-25°C. When two or three true leaves appear, the pelargonium should be planted. It is believed that when propagated by seeds, pelargonium will bloom more abundantly; it will be able to produce up to 30 buds.

Seedlings are planted in a permanent pot when the plants have grown well, up to 10-12 cm in height.

Propagation of pelargonium by cuttings

Propagation by cuttings should begin in March.

• Cuttings with 2-3 internodes, approximately 5-7 cm long, are cut from the donor plant.
• You can soak the cut of the cutting in crushed charcoal, this will protect it from rotting.
• It is advisable to disinfect the soil to avoid the spread of fungal spores, especially if you take soil from the garden.
• After this, you should moisten the substrate and stick the cuttings into it.
• Cover with a jar on top, you can use plastic bottle, pre-cut in half.
• To avoid rotting, you should not overheat them, the temperature should be up to 22-23°C.
• We moisten the soil moderately and periodically.
• It takes about 1.5-3 weeks for good rooting.
• You can also place the cuttings in water, and when they sprout roots, transplant them into soil.

Both methods of germinating pelargonium cuttings are widely used; the first is convenient in that the plants immediately take root, which gives a certain advantage. The second method can be called “lazy”: the plants do not need to be watered for a long time; it is enough to simply change the water every few days.

However, when planting cuttings with formed roots in the ground, the plants do not experience any particular discomfort and are quickly accepted.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

Overgrown bushes can be divided without damage and several plants can be obtained. In turn, dividing the bush is a rejuvenating procedure that can be carried out in conjunction with pruning.

• To divide the bush, water it well.
• After an hour, carefully remove the lump of earth from the pot.
• Inspect the root and carefully separate it into parts with a knife to preserve several growth points for each new bush.
• Trim long branches, shortening them to a height of 5-10 cm.
• Plant in nutritious soil, maintaining the same level of the root collar, and water abundantly.
• At first the bushes will wilt and shed their leaves, don’t worry, this is normal. After 7-10 days, when turgor (leaf tone) is restored, feed the pelargonium to further stimulate the growth of green mass.
• After 3-4 months the plants will be able to bloom.

Pelargonium pruning and rejuvenating bush transplantation

Pruning pelargonium photo How to prune pelargonium

All pelargoniums grow in height very quickly. And over time, the stems “go bald”. Therefore, the flower needs constant pruning. Without this, it will lose its decorative properties and may stop throwing out buds. Pruning is also used to rejuvenate the bush. The right time for this is autumn.

Not only the top is cut off, but also the edges of the earthen clod along with the roots. In the spring, during transplantation, it is also advisable to prune pelargonium.

But it should be noted that pruning delays flowering by 3-4 months. In order to form a low and fluffy bush with large inflorescences, you need to cut it short, leaving small stumps, about 5 cm. Cut a suitable branch just above the internode. The cut should be oblique. It is also important to ensure that after pruning there are buds that do not grow deep into the bush. To form a dense crown, pelargonium is pinched.

Possible problems in care

• Yellowing of leaf blades. Most likely, this is due to root rot; in this case, replanting the plant in another soil will help.
• Yellowing of fox edges. Guilty Not proper care: heat air, insufficient watering, lack of air due to soil compaction. Perhaps the plant does not have enough fertilizer, so it needs fertilizing.
• Stem rot, leaf wilting. It is necessary to remove damaged stems and reduce watering.
• Pelargonium does not bloom. If this happens, then most likely the reason is stagnation of water - reduce watering and make sure that the water does not stagnate, there is not enough light - move the plant to the south side, but make sure that the air temperature does not rise above 25C.
• Stunted growth, limp leaves. If these signs are present, then first you should check the soil for acidity, it should not exceed 5.5 pH, it can also be caused by a lack of nitrogen.
• If the pot becomes small, the plant may stop growing.

Pelargonium diseases

Diseases of pelargonium photo and description In the photo: oedema

Oedema, edema. It manifests itself in the formation of tubercles and growths on the leaves. The disease is caused by excessive waterlogging of the soil. The solution is to reduce watering and cut off all diseased leaves.

Verticillium wilt of pelargonium photo What to do

Verticillium wilt. A very dangerous disease, almost fatal for pelargoniums. The solution is to destroy diseased plants and all shoots with signs of disease. Treatment of plants with the biofungidide trichodermin, 2 g of the drug for each bush. Foundationazole 50 SP 0.1% and Topsin M 70 SP 0.1% performed well.

Gray rot . It appears as brown spots along the entire base of the plant. Leaves also respond to the disease by yellowing and wilting. A gray fungus appears in the foci of the disease.
Gray rot in pelargonium occurs from excess moisture. A large amount of nitrogen in fertilizing can also cause this phenomenon.

To combat gray rot, I prune the affected parts of the plant. The flower is transplanted into new soil and pot. Pelargonium is treated with systemic fungicides.

Stem and root rot . With this disease, the root collar becomes black and begins to rot. The leaves lose their rich color, turn pale, and over time, even turn yellow and wither. The disease appears due to increased moisture and low acidity of the soil. To combat rot, plants are treated with drugs such as Fitolavin, Biporam.

Stem and root late blight. When pelargonium is infected by the late blight fungus, it withers and rots very quickly. In most cases, the spore is soilborne, but can be carried by drafts from one plant to another. The impetus for the development of the disease is high humidity. The disease begins from the roots, covering them with spots of rot.

At this time, the growth of the plant slows down and the color of the leaves turns pale, the signs of the disease become similar to a lack of moisture. But when watering increases, the fungus gains momentum, multiplying and affecting all branches very quickly. Late blight is also characterized by white fluff in the area of ​​rot. Late blight can be treated in the early stages. For treatment, the flower is processed Bordeaux mixture, the affected parts are removed, and charcoal is poured onto the cut. Be sure to replant the plant in sterile soil and pot.

Types of pelargonium with photos and descriptions

To all the advantages of pelargonium, you can also add a variety of species, of which there are more than 250 in nature. The entire genus of pelargonium is divided into 7 groups.

Zonal pelargoniums

The largest group in terms of number of varieties. Includes thousands of varieties. The leaves have a small soft fluff and wavy edges of the plate, densely distributed throughout the base of the stem. If you rub a leaf of zonal pelargonium, a specific sharp effect will appear. The stems of the flower are straight.

Flowers, collected in large and bright brushes, depending on the variety, can be:

• simple (variety Blanca with snow-white flowers, variety Yitka with delicate salmon-pink flowers) - up to 5 petals
• semi-double (variety A.M. Mayne with beet-fuchsia flowers) - up to 8 petals
• double (variety Ada Suterby with pink flowers) - more than 8 petals

The shape of the bud may also differ:

• tulips (variety Carmen Andrea - bright red, almost burgundy petals, slightly wavy edges, variety Emma fran Bengtsbo - noble elongated buds with milky white petals) - buds look like a tulip, do not open completely.
• cactus - petals are twisted.
• star-shaped (Borthwood Stellar variety with intense pink flowers, Aunty Pam-Stellar variety - neon pink petals) - inflorescences look like stars.
• rosebuds (Apple Blossom Rosebud variety - the most luxurious variety zonal pelargoniums with white buds and pink edging) - inflorescences like roses.

According to the color of the petals, zonal pelargoniums can be:

• two-color
• tricolor
• speckled (variety Confetti Red - bright orange petals with specks and red strokes)
• bird's egg color

Zonal pelargoniums vary in size:

• microminiature – 10cm
• miniature – 10-13cm
• dwarf (variety Pac Jana-2 - dark pink flower with a white spot, variety Frou Frou with bright pink flowers) - 13-20cm
• normal – 25-60cm
• airines – up to 80cm

Royal pelargoniums description and care conditions

This is a gorgeous group that is distinguished by its large, bright flowers. In some varieties, the bud reaches 8 cm. But in order to achieve flowering, you need to make a lot of effort and create certain conditions in order for royal pelargonium threw away the buds. The most important period for them is winter.

• At this time, it is necessary to observe 2 modes, temperature and watering mode.
• Watering in winter should be minimal, frequent watering will lead to rapid growth without further flowering, the optimal amount of watering is 2 times a month.

Temperature for wintering – maximum +15C, but preferably below, +8C is the ideal environment for planting buds. There are exceptions for which a warmer wintering, at +20-+25C, is possible - these are the Imperial and Sally Munro varieties. The flowering of this group of pelargoniums is short-lived, until summer.

The most popular varieties are Askham Fringed Aztec, Burghi, Elegance Jeanette, PAC Aristo Salmon, Rose Pope.

Angels Angeline

This group of pelargoniums took its name from the Angeline variety, which participated in the creation of these hybrids. The angels are similar to the royal group, but smaller in size. The flowers resemble violets, with the upper petals usually larger than the lower ones.

Flowering is abundant and long lasting. Leaves with rounded teeth. The flower is not at all whimsical, but it tolerates wintering well at low temperatures. The shape of the bush is upright good lighting, in the shade it can go into an ampel, so angels are common for decorating terraces. The leaves are fragrant with a mint-lemon aroma.

Spectacular varieties - Eskay Saar, PAC Angeleyes Bicolor, PAC Angeleyes Light, Quantock May, Swedish Angel, PAC Angeleyes Randy, PAC Angeleyes Blueberry, PAC Angeleyes Viola.

Pelargonium peltatum

They got their name from the leaves, which are similar to ivy leaves. The peculiarity of this group is that the branches of the bush grow downward. It is ivy-leaved pelargoniums that decorate balconies and verandas. In the flowerbed, ivy-leaved pelargoniums cover the ground like a carpet.

The flowers are varied, depending on the variety, simple, double or semi-double. The shades are also completely different. May be variegated. The leaves are slightly shiny, in some varieties they are matte. A special feature of the care is the creation of cool air temperatures in winter. The group is resistant to fungal diseases. Favorite varieties are Ice Rose, PAC Kate, PAC Tomgirl, SIL Stellena, PAC Vicky, PAC Lilac Rose, Mozaic Sugar Baby.

Succulent pelargoniums

The most exotic group among all pelargoniums. It has an unusual stem shape. They will look great in compositions such as alpine slide, bonsai. The leaves and flowers are small. Succulent pelargoniums grow slowly.

Types of succulent pelargonium:

• angular
• fleshy
• humpback
• another
• cortusifolia
• thick-stemmed
• fuzzy-leaved

Unicums - hybrid pelargoniums

This group is over 150 years old. It was bred by crossing royal and brilliant pelargonium. The leaves are fragrant, dark green. Petals are two-colored. The bush is quite large, grows up to 50 cm, periodically it needs to be trimmed and pinched.

Fragrant pelargonium

The spiciest group. The smell appears if you rub the leaf, but many varieties smell fragrant even with the slightest draft. The leaves of plants can have the most varied and unusual smells, such as the smell of lilac, pineapple, rose, coconut, ginger.

The bush grows large, more than a meter. not always used as a decorative element. Most often for the production of geranium oil. Interesting varieties are Ardwick Cinnamon (cinnamon scent), Lady Plymouth (menthol scent), P. laevigatum, Both*s Snowflake, P. tomentozum (menthol scent), Eucament, Orange Fizz (lemon scent).

Pelargonium zonalis is familiar to everyone. It is often mistakenly called geranium. A popular plant can often be found on the windowsills of clinics and other social institutions. Flower growers love pelargonium for its unpretentiousness and almost year-round flowering. Its large spherical inflorescences of delicate tones decorate open flower beds and indoor flowerpots, verandas and balconies. The stems of zonal pelargonium branch well, so the bushes look lush and beautiful.

The many thousands of species, many of which feel great at home, attract the attention of florists, flower decorators, breeders and simply indoor floriculture enthusiasts to pelargonium, especially since growing and caring for this charming flower is very simple if you follow simple rules.

Below you will get acquainted with the amazing variety of species and varieties of zonal pelargonium. Their bright photos are mesmerizing, and the descriptions help you navigate. You will also find useful tips on watering, replanting and propagating flowers.

The genus Pelargonium, or Pelargonium, includes over three hundred species. The plant got its name from the characteristic structure of the fruit. It is a narrow box pointed towards the top. Its bizarre shape is associated with the beak of a stork. This similarity is reflected in the name of the species: pelargos is translated from Greek as “stork”.

Pelargonium was brought to Europe at the end of the 17th century from the expanses of South Africa, where it is found in the wild. Europeans immediately appreciated the beauty and splendor exotic flower, as well as its undemanding conditions of detention. Very soon the plant settled on literally every windowsill, garden bed, and greenhouse. It even began to be considered a symbol of the Victorian style and a mandatory attribute of the luxurious home interiors of the British nobility.

The plant came to Russia much later, when in Europe they began to forget about it, classifying it as a bourgeois tastelessness. For a long time, our grandmothers kept their devotion to red and pink geraniums. Fortunately, European breeders brought the South African guest back from oblivion and developed about 10 thousand varieties. Naturally, florists and flower growers could not ignore such diversity, and pelargonium again became the most popular plant garden beds and hanging flowerpots.

Species richness determined the diversity of geraniums. The species differ in the shape and color of the flowers, the height of the bush, the shape of the leaves and other characteristics. Some of the species are suitable for cultivation only in greenhouses and botanical gardens. Essential oil is extracted from some, popular in soap making and perfumery. And only a few varieties are grown at home, most often zonal pelargonium, or garden geranium.

Varieties of zonal pelargonium

Zonal pelargonium, or Pelargonium zonale, is the most common species, which is unpretentious and durable (does not lose its decorative effect for up to 20 years). In the wild, as well as in open ground and southern climates, bushes can be quite tall, up to one and a half meters. In room conditions - a little more than half a meter. They lend themselves well to shaping and can be grown as trees or lush bushes. As they grow, the shoots become woodier.

On the rounded pubescent leaves there are concentric circles in the form of a horseshoe or ball. They differ in color from the rest of the leaf plate: they can be a tone darker or lighter, or in contrasting shades. This division into zones is why the species got its name. Depending on the variety, the leaves differ in size, shape and color.

Beautifully flowering varieties have abundant and long flowering from spring to autumn. They can bloom all year round if provided with proper care. Zonal pelargonium flowers are collected in large spherical inflorescences; they can be double or non-double. Their color is very diverse: there are varieties with flowers of white, red, pink, purple and even two-color. The petals may have spots, streaks or a colored border.

For ease of orientation in the abundant catalog of zonal pelargonium varieties, a conditional classification has been adopted:

1. Based on stem growth, plants are divided into:
   • tall - from 42 cm in height;
   • medium height - no higher than 40 cm;
   • low-growing (dwarf) - bushes up to 20 cm in height;
   • miniature - grow no more than 12.5 cm (varieties White Butterfly, Dwarf Nano Violet from the Biotechnika agricultural company).
2. By number of petals:
   • simple - up to 5 petals (varieties: Chandelier Bicolor, Blanca, Pelargonium Pavel f1, Southern Night, Moulin Rouge);
   • semi-double – number of petals from 5 to 8 (varieties: Multibloom Lavender, Violet Star, Rafaella, Toscana);
   • double - lush flowers with more than 8 petals (varieties: Pink, Grandiflora Mix, Colorama, Chandelier Scarlet, variegated variety Wilhelm Langguth).
3. According to the shape and color of the petals, varieties are divided into:
   • bouquet - a varietal group with simple flowers that form large umbrella inflorescences;
   • star-shaped - flowers with pointed serrated petals, leaves are strongly dissected, look like palms with widely spread fingers;
   • cactus-flowered - the petals are narrow, often twisted lengthwise, arranged horizontally, the flowers look like cactus-shaped dahlias;
   • phlox flowers - two-color flowers in the center are white, and the edges of the petals are crimson;
   • tulip-flowered - the buds of these varieties of zonal pelargonium do not open completely, their shape resembles half-closed flowers of the buds;
   • rosebuds - breeders call this varietal group Rosebuds (from the English Rosebud), it includes varieties with flowers whose shape is similar to small roses, the flowers are double, lush, the petals do not open completely, curling inward and forming something like pink buds;
   • carnation-flowered - dissected petals wavy along the edges resemble carnation flowers.
4. By leaf shape and color:
   • green varieties - green leaves with darker or lighter circles in the shape of a horseshoe;
   • variegated varieties of zonal pelargonium - grown mainly for the beauty of the leaves. The flowers are small and inconspicuous, but the leaves are amazingly beautiful, bizarre in shape and color. Zones can be located not only in the form of concentric patterns, but also sectorally. The combinations of shades are unusual; there are varieties with shades of pink, bronze, brown, yellow, white, silver, and even combinations of two or three shades. Plants are more demanding to care for than conventional varieties.

Almost all pelargoniums of this species are distinguished by a strongly pronounced tart odor of the leaves, although not everyone finds this smell pleasant, but its properties to repel moths and insects are valued by housewives. The aroma of geranium is also used in herbal medicine for the prevention and treatment of insomnia, neuroses and other consequences of stress.

Therapeutic aromatherapy can be done at home. It is enough to sit at a short distance (0.5 meters) from a flowerpot with pelargonium or plants in the garden, move the leaves to enhance the release of the smell, take 2-3 deep breaths, and then breathe for 10 minutes at a normal rhythm. Improvement in well-being occurs after two weeks of such therapy.

Caring for zonal pelargoniums

Fortunately for new gardeners, these plants are very easy to care for. They are not as capricious as other residents flower pots(like anthurium or calla lilies). Proper watering and bright light are sufficient conditions for your pet to thank you with long, lush flowering.

Lighting and temperature

The lack of light has a detrimental effect on the condition of the green darling. Small leaves, half-naked stems and lack of flowering - you are unlikely to be satisfied with this type of pelargonium. In order for the bush to branch well and form a luxurious head of inflorescences, it needs to be provided with bright lighting. A south sunny window is the ideal place. Here the plant will receive its necessary 4-8 hours of bright sun.

If the sun has left yellowish spots on the leaves, it is better to shade the plant a little. This is true for the hottest summer days. In winter, to prevent the shoots from stretching, you can illuminate the plant with lamps.

In summer optimal temperature– 20-23 degrees during the day and 12-15 at night. In the summer heat of thirty degrees, the plant stops blooming and withers. In winter, plants are kept at a temperature of 12-20 degrees. Blooming geraniums are afraid of drafts and the touch of cold glass with their delicate leaves.

Watering and air humidity

The second important parameter in care is rational watering. It must be very dosed: if there is a lack of moisture, the leaves of pelargonium turn yellow and wither; if there is too much, the root system rots (especially those that suffer from this are dwarf varieties). It is correct to water abundantly, but only when it dries out. upper layer soil. In winter, watering is reduced to once every 1.5-2 weeks.

Plants do not need spraying. If water gets on hairy leaves, it can leave stains. In general, pelargonium is calm about air humidity, and only in the cold season, when the heating is turned on, can dry air harm the green bushes. Therefore, in winter it is better to place a flowerpot with a flower on a tray with expanded clay. Moisten expanded clay regularly.

Replanting and feeding with fertilizers

Pelargonium zonalis grows quickly, its roots tightly entwine the earthen ball and appear from the drainage holes. It can be replanted at any time from spring to autumn. If the plants are kept in the garden, at the beginning of autumn they are transplanted into flower pots, where they continue to develop. In summer they are planted again in open ground.

For young bushes, take a pot of almost the same volume as the previous one (the difference is only 1-1.5 cm), adults are transplanted into a pot of the same volume, changing only the substrate. The latter should be quite loose: this can be achieved by a combination of peat, loamy soil, sand, perlite and charcoal.

Feed plants during the flowering period with diluted complex fertilizers for pelargoniums (fertilizers for tomatoes or universal fertilizers for flowering plants are also suitable). The fertilizer should contain an increased amount of phosphorus and potassium, and a reduced amount of nitrogen. Do not fertilize the plants after transplantation, waiting at least a month and a half. In winter, fertilizing is carried out no more than once every 4-5 weeks.

Trimming

Peduncles appear only on young shoots, so it is important to form the bushes correctly. If this is not done, the stems will stretch out and the bush will lose decorative form, and flowers will become rare. Zonal pelargonium is characterized by extremely rapid growth, so it must be trimmed and pinched. The first pinching of young plants is done by removing the growing point above the 5-6th leaf.

Diseases and pests

Can spoil the plant spider mites, aphids, thrips, mealybug. If signs of damage occur, it is important to promptly treat the bush with special preparations.

Most often, pelargoniums are affected by whitefly. Small white butterflies and their larvae are easy to spot on the undersides of leaves. You can fight this pest with soapy water. The bush is thoroughly washed with soap and covered with polyethylene for several days. In case of extensive damage, the bushes are treated with actara (according to the instructions).

One of the most dangerous diseases of pelargonium is blackleg. In this case, cuttings of young plants are most often affected. The development of this disease is always associated with errors in care: excessive watering, low air temperature, and a spacious pot.

Mold also causes trouble for flower growers. It forms in the form of a gray coating on the leaves, while the leaves turn yellow and brownish spots appear on them. Treatment with fungicides helps to cope with the fungus. It is important to remove wilted leaves and flowers in a timely manner so as not to spread the infection.

Reproduction of zonal pelargonium

In home floriculture, two methods of propagating this plant are practiced: cuttings and sowing seeds.

Propagation by cuttings

This is the simplest and, accordingly, popular method. Cuttings preserve the characteristics of the variety. What does it mean? When propagating, you get new plants with absolutely the same varietal characteristics as the mother specimen. In addition, dividing by cuttings is a great way to rejuvenate an elongated old plant.

On the cuttings, cut off the top of the shoot (5-15 cm), half a centimeter below the leaf node. Peduncles and lower leaves are cut from the cuttings, and the cut is dried in air for a couple of hours. If the remaining leaves on the cutting are very large, they can be cut in half. You can root in a glass of water, but it’s faster and more reliable in a mixture of peat with sand or perlite.

The substrate with cuttings is moistened as it dries, avoiding stagnation of water (otherwise a black leg will develop). At warm temperatures and diffused light, roots appear within two weeks. The strengthened sprouts are fertilized with complex fertilizers, and after some time they are transferred to small pots.

Growing from seeds

Unlike propagation by cuttings, this method does not guarantee that new plants will retain the characteristics of the mother variety. This remark, however, applies only to hybrid species. Thus, most often found on sale is a hybrid mixture of seeds of the first (F1) and second (F2) generations. On the bag with such a mixture it will be written: “Pelargonium zonal F1” followed by the name of the variety.

Varieties are obtained by crossing two copies. different varieties. Plants from such seeds are popular among beginners in floriculture, although they do not have a variety of colors. In contrast, zonal species pelargoniums are of great value to breeders and are no less successfully propagated by seeds.

It is best to sow the seeds of zonal pelargonium at the end of winter - then in the spring the seedlings will gain strength and will produce buds in the summer, but you can propagate this way at other times of the year. The seed is sown on the surface of a sterile mixture of perlite and peat, and a thin layer of several millimeters is sprinkled on top. You can also sow in separate cups - in this case, picking is not necessary. Some gardeners advise pre-soaking the seeds in wet paper towels. If they have a thick skin, you can rub it sandpaper fine grain.

For rooting, containers with seedlings are kept warm (20-25 degrees), usually without covering from above, in diffused lighting. Regularly moisten the substrate. Green sprouts appear a few weeks after sowing. When they form two pairs of leaves, the seedlings, which grow in a common container, dive into individual cups or pots. These pelargoniums bloom earlier and more abundantly than those propagated by cuttings.

For almost a century, breeders all over the world have been breeding new varieties of pelargonium. Thanks to their efforts, an incredibly large number of different varieties and varieties of this ornamental plant were obtained. The culture is not overly demanding in terms of growing conditions and, with proper care, will definitely respond with lush, luxurious flowering. We bring to your attention detailed information about zonal pelargonium, as well as its best varieties (photos with names and descriptions are attached).

About zonal pelargonium

This is one of the most common groups of plants, represented by a large number of species and varieties. Varieties belonging to the group of the same name are considered zonal because they have a certain zone on the leaves, colored in a different color (most often in the form of a small ring-shaped or rounded spot). Pelargonium zonalis is perfect for growing not only indoors, but also in open areas.

The variety is represented by an erect, fairly branched and powerful bush, densely covered with foliage. The bush is covered with small lush umbrella flowers. The leaves are heavily pubescent and have a specific odor. Zonal pelargoniums are also divided into several varieties depending on the number of petals on the flowers. So, they come with 5-8 petals (sometimes more).

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant

Zonal pelargonium is a rather unpretentious plant in terms of growing conditions, but quite demanding in terms of care. It is necessary to provide it with the right amount solar heat and light, nutritious and regular fertilizing, saturate with moisture, etc.

Advice. In winter, it is necessary to provide the plant with sufficient access to cool air. If this is not possible, remove as many bare shoots from the plant as possible in the spring.

Basic classification of zonal pelargonium

Zonal pelargoniums, in turn, can be divided into several subgroups:

• Rosaceae. All varieties presented in this category have luxurious double flowers that look very reminiscent of classic roses.

Rosaceous pelargonium

• Tulip-shaped. The flowers of varieties from this group are small flowers collected in inflorescences. Outwardly they resemble small unopened tulip-shaped buds. The petals of tulip-shaped pelargoniums are distinguished by a rather unusual appearance: they are slightly inclined inward and drooping, as if they have already begun to wither. This in no way means that the plants are actually withering. In fact, the sluggish appearance of the petals is specific feature varieties.

Tulip pelargonium

• Star-shaped. Star pelargoniums are completely different from their “compatriots”: data flowers dwarf plants have unusual shape pointed star. Moreover, quite often the two largest petals have an elongated shape with a sharp end, which makes them different from the rest.

star pelargonium

• Dianthus. The varieties presented in this category are very similar in appearance to garden carnations: they are just as large, with carved petals of a fairly bright shade.

Carnation pelargonium

• Cactus-like. A rather rare variety of zonal pelargonium, which is represented by a fairly large, heavily leafy bush. The leaves are wide, bright green. Flowers of cactus-shaped varieties look quite unusual: their petals seem to be rolled into narrow tubes. Quite often they have a slightly “disheveled” appearance.

cactus pelargonium

• Deacons. Quite young hybrids that appeared on the world flower market less than 50 years ago. They are represented by a very compact, abundantly flowering bush with a small rosette of flowers in a soft peach, pink or red hue.

Pelargonium deacon

Let's take a closer look at several of the best representatives in each category of zonal varieties of pelargonium. Among the most popular pink varieties Several can be distinguished:

• April Snow - a neat dwarf plant with small double flowers Pink colour in the form of roses.
• Denise is a powerful plant that every year is covered with a large terry cap of pink or peach color.
• Monseruds Rosen is not easy to grow - it is quite difficult to form the required shape, it is distinguished by luxurious burgundy flowering.

Among the most popular star varieties Pelargoniums can be distinguished as follows:

• Aunty Pam – Stellar. The variety is represented by a fairly compact, well-branched bush, densely covered with luxurious bright pink flower rosettes. Externally, the flower petals resemble a small terry carnation.
• Borthwood – Stellar. Another excellent star variety, this is a heavily flowering dwarf shrub whose leaves are shaped slightly like frogs' legs.
• Fandango. A rather unusual variety, the flowers of which look slightly “shabby”: the shape of the petals is a little torn, with fuzzy edges. The plants bloom abundantly and lushly; the flowers have a pleasant soft coral hue.

Pelargonium Fandango

Among cactus varieties Pelargoniums can be noted as follows.

Geranium is a predominantly perennial (usually herbaceous) plant belonging to the Geranium family. There are also shrub species. It is characterized by large (usually 5 petal) flowers of varying colors. Each leaf is a separate plate with smooth edges or dissected like individual fingers. The shape of the fruit is a capsule, reminiscent of the long nose of a crane.

Growing geranium is so easy that you can say: “Geranium is the most unpretentious culture" Moreover, it does not matter whether it grows in your garden, being a real geranium, recognized according to botanical classifications, or is located in an apartment on the windowsill. In the second case, home flower It can only be conditionally called geranium, since most likely it will belong to another genus of the same family - pelargonium.

Pelargoniums differ from geraniums in the irregular symmetry of the flower petals, the presence of a special narrow strip with nectar at one of the petals, and the number of flowers collected together into one bright inflorescence. And, of course, frost resistance. Since Africa is the birthplace of pelargonium, this indoor plant can tolerate winter time only in the warmth. Real geranium, which came from the alpine meadows of Europe, from North America will easily overwinter in the temperate climate of the northern hemisphere, even in wild conditions.

Planting geraniums

Planting methods

When planting geraniums outdoors, it is best to use seedlings purchased or grown in advance. In this case, it is necessary to plant, choosing soils that are not too light. Geranium is a plant that loves loose, but rather heavy soils. It is not recommended to thicken plantings in a flower garden. 12-15 plants per square meter are enough for them to feel good.

When planting in an apartment, choose sunny places, and do not be afraid of the brightest rays. Pelargonium in as a last resort It may discolor the leaves a little, but then it will calmly recover. Choose a flower pot that is not too small, with good drainage. Water thoroughly during the first week. This also applies street species geraniums and domestic pelargoniums.

Optimal time for planting

In order for geraniums to delight you on your site, it is better to plant them in open ground after the threat of night frosts, which for central Russia means the beginning of June.

If desired, put new flower on the windowsill, do this any time except autumn. Spring, summer and even the end of winter are the right time to plant pelargoniums. They will have time to absorb solar energy for further wintering.

Soil for the plant

When choosing soil for pelargoniums, you can use ready-made mixtures from their stores, or you can make them yourself in the following proportion:

• turf soil - 2 parts;
• leaf humus - 2 parts;
• sand - 1 part;
• peat - 1 part.

Some recipes mention clay as a component of the substrate. In this case, you need to take a share of clay and sand and add 3 shares of compost soil.

Location and lighting for the plant

Geranium is a very sun-loving plant. It can withstand both bright sun without any shading (in this case it blooms profusely and luxuriantly), and the usual light from windows facing north. But in this case, additional lighting will be necessary for flowering. When in the spring (already in April) daytime air temperatures begin to exceed 10 degrees, geraniums can (and should) be taken outside. And once the likelihood of frost subsides, you can completely move the pots of geraniums to fresh air.

Air humidity

Air humidity is not particularly important for geraniums. But what you definitely shouldn’t do is spray the plant on the leaves. It will do more harm than good. But what

Temperature regime for a flower

Pelargonium prefers moderate temperatures. In summer it is about 20 degrees, in winter – about 15. Do not overcool the flower with temperatures below 10 degrees. This can lead to irreversible consequences and loss of the plant.

How to water correctly

Pelargonium should be watered like any other house flower. In moderation, avoiding constant waterlogging of the soil. Usually in summer they water once or twice a week. Ideally, you should not set a fixed watering schedule. The main thing you need to ensure is that the lump of earth on top has time to dry out during the period from watering to the next watering. Since it is always better to underwater than to overwater, you can also water the pan, allowing the soil to absorb the required amount of moisture and draining the excess water after a few hours.

But you shouldn’t dry it either. In winter, water on average once every 10 days.
How many types of pelargoniums there are, so many different options soil moisture. After all, royal pelargonium loves watering very much, while zonal pelargonium loves watering much less.

Feeding and fertilizing the flower

If you want to achieve good and abundant flowering of pelargonium, feed it once a week. IN mineral fertilizers give predominance to potassium and phosphorus components.

In winter, it is better to either stop fertilizing completely or do it no more than once a month.

Trimming

Pruning geraniums (pelargoniums) is simply necessary:

• a compact decorative appearance is formed;
• the process of future flowering is more powerful;
• using pruning, cuttings are obtained for propagating new plants

Trimming methods

Trimmed either selectively or completely mother plant. The instruments are taken clean and disinfected. The knife, pruning shears, and razor must be sharp enough.

Transplanting geraniums

You only need to replant geraniums when you see that the pot is becoming too small for the plant. This may happen when you purchase finished flower in the store or when growing. Young plants are replanted once or twice a year. Then you don't have to do this.

Transplant methods

Since geranium takes root well and does not require much effort, replanting can be done using the transfer method (when the whole lump of earth is carefully rearranged into a larger pot and filled with soil). If the roots are damaged by the disease, then it is better to clean the roots from the previous filler and plant them in a new pot with new soil.

Geranium propagation

Geraniums are propagated to produce new plants that will eventually replace the old ones. This is much easier and faster to do than representatives of many other families.

Of course, there are exceptions here too. So rarer varieties bred in Lately breeders require specific conditions and effort. But basically, pelargonium reproduces without difficulty.

Reproduction methods

If the geranium is ampelous, then you can cut off individual branches-cuttings for propagation. In order for your bush pelargonium (low, compact) to remain as attractive, all stems are usually cut off, leaving 2-3 cm.

Sequencing:

• the stalk is cut at an angle;
• cut off all buds and leaves, leaving 3-4 buds;
• dry the cutting (5-7 cm long) in air (can be treated with coal dust);
• plant in water or small cups with well-drained and disinfected soil;
• ensure constant maintenance of humidity and temperature of about 20 degrees.

In some cases, geraniums are propagated by seeds. In this case, the optimal time for planting seeds is spring. To facilitate the process, you can use peat tablets.

Flowering period, flower shape

It is impossible to give specific flowering dates for geraniums. Depending on the variety and even on the conditions of detention, it can bloom all year round. The flowers are also incredibly varied in both color and shape.

There are flowers that are similar to roses in size and size, and sometimes they look like stars or tulips. But the usual flowering time is spring, summer and early autumn.

Plant care after flowering

In autumn, when the growing season and flowering period is over, it is recommended to prepare geraniums for winter rest. To do this, the plant is pruned (optional), the flower stalks are necessarily removed to avoid rotting, watered and put in a cooler place, limiting watering and fertilizing for the dormant period.

Problems, diseases and pests of a flower

Geraniums have virtually no pests in nature. Flower diseases can be divided into two categories: viral and fungal. Fungal infections usually spread quite slowly and are much easier to treat. Viral (bacterial) ones are almost impossible to treat; it is easier to get another plant specimen, destroying the suddenly ill one along with the infection.

In indoor conditions, the plant can get sick:

• root or stem rot;
• leaf spotting;
• Botrytis fungus;
• bacteriosis;
• leaf rust.

Root (stem) rot is caused by the fungus Pythium or Rhizoctonia. This disease is characterized by stems and leaves that first turn brown and then turn black. Subsequently, the entire flower rots and dies.

Control measures: control of soil and air humidity, use of antifungal drugs.

Spotting is caused by the Alternaria fungus (leaf damage in the form of brown spots with yellow spots), or the Cercospora fungus (leaf defects in the form of pale spots turning into a grayish coating).

Prevention of the disease is similar to all antifungals. Namely: removing excess moisture, preventing the green mass from becoming thicker for faster drying.

Botrytis fungus begins with spots on the leaves with a grayish coating, on the stems - Brown. Sometimes the disease comes from high humidity, sometimes because falling flowers are not removed in time and remain on the leaves, creating wet areas.

Prevention methods– watering without touching the leaves, timely collection of wilted flowers. It is recommended to water in the morning so that the water has time to dry before the cool night time. In case of disease, it is necessary to fight by removing infected parts and whole plants.

Bacteriosis can be very difficult to diagnose because its symptoms vary depending on the different varieties. But the disease develops quickly. Viruses destroy the plant with brown spots, deformed veins, etc.

Leaf rust manifests itself in the form of yellow spots, first on the upper surface of the leaf, then moving to its lower side. Clots with spores form on the lower surfaces, which open and form a rim in the form of rusty stitches. As they spread, the spores infect the entire leaf, leading to its death.

Ways to protect the plant are to prevent the accumulation of water on the leaves, avoid high air humidity at low temperatures, inspect the flower from time to time and remove infected parts, and then treat with fungicides.

Popular types (varieties)

Among the varieties of street geranium are:

• swamp;

• blood red;

• Himalayan

Pelargoniums can be divided into:

• a huge assortment of zonal pelargoniums (due to the specially colored zone in the middle of the flower);

• ivy-leaved pelargoniums (ampeloid) with whip-like flexible stems;

• variety options " royal (large-flowered) »;

• several types of pelargoniums at once, united by the common name “Angel type”;

• fragrant pelargoniums;
• some others.

Very interesting are the varieties bred by breeders with heterogeneous leaf color - the so-called variegated varieties.

A separate type of pelargonium is very different in appearance and growth conditions - succulent pelargonium. This exotic plants, having woody trunks, and in some cases even with thorns.

Some gardeners practice a noteworthy way to get abundant flowering for geraniums: watering with water with added iodine. This is done like this: one drop of 5% iodine is dissolved in a liter of water. alcohol tincture and onto each plant (trying to pour not on the roots in the middle, but closer to the walls of the pot) pour 50 ml of this mixture.

It is also useful to remember that geranium loves fresh air and until late autumn, pots of pelargonium can grow on balconies, loggias and even in the garden.

Answers to readers' questions

Plant lifespan

Perennial bush varieties geraniums can grow in one place for up to 20 years. But in the case of growing heat-loving pelargonium at home, it makes sense to completely replace the flower with a completely renewed one every 5 years. After all, decorative properties deteriorate after 2-3 years of growth. Therefore, targeted formation of the bush is very important.

Is it possible to keep this plant at home?

Indoor geranium (pelargonium) remains one of the most common and beloved inhabitants of our homes. Although easy to care for, this flower has a very beautiful appearance and is distinguished by a huge variety of varieties.

Even people who are not interested in Feng Shui and horoscopes claim that geranium creates a special comfort in the house and, as it were, calms, improves the atmosphere of the apartment, and relieves stress.

Is this flower poisonous?

Some types of pelargonium are so rich essential oils that the word “fragrant” is even added to their name. This smell basically plays a very positive role in our lives. The air is disinfected and introduced into our atmosphere. confined spaces healing aromas. Even the fact that pets are unlikely to eat a strong-smelling plant will benefit both the plant and the animal.

The exception is for allergy sufferers. But this is a special article. And even such people may develop allergies, or vice versa, it may ease breathing and the condition of the body. The question is very individual. The only thing is that, in general, geranium (pelargonium) is not toxic.

Why don't geraniums bloom?

When a plant decorates itself with flowers, it means that it is completely comfortable and has enough of everything: moisture, light, useful substances. Usually geraniums (pelargoniums) bloom profusely and for a long time. But if even such a low-maintenance flower is upset by the lack of flowering, then it needs to be given more. Feed (in moderation). You can try adding additional lighting.
Remember that in winter a flower may simply request rest and not bloom for some time (usually until spring) for physiological reasons. But after a period of dormancy it will bloom brightly and luxuriantly. But if you did not provide him with this rest and the winter was not cool and calm for him, then in the summer you can quite naturally lose this flowering.

There is another interesting point: when the container for the flower is too spacious, the plant will most likely increase its leaf mass. And only when the roots fill the pot in a normal way will the growth of greenery stop or slow down and the time for flowering will come.

Why does geranium turn yellow and dry out?

There is no clear answer to this question. First of all, it is necessary to distinguish between the natural process of dying off of old (necessarily lower) leaves and the more alarming yellowing with loss of turgor of the upper leaves.
If the leaves begin to turn yellow en masse, then reconsider the watering regime. Most likely the plant is drying out. But it also happens that brown spots will be added to the yellowing. This is already a sign of waterlogging, and maybe even a disease, and the plant needs to be treated, or even more correctly, to replant it and grow a healthy flower again.

Plants stretched upward with thin bare stems make it clear that they do not have enough light. Add artificial lighting or move it to sunnier windows.

Caring for geraniums in winter.

We will again divide the topic for indoor pelargoniums and for those geranium bushes that grew in the garden in the summer, and now it’s time to protect them from the coming cold.

• Dig up the geranium completely, carefully shake off the roots from the ground and hang it, tying it in bunches with other dug specimens, ensuring high humidity (at least 80%) and coolness (from 2 to 8 degrees). Once every two weeks, it is recommended to additionally moisten the roots by dipping them in water. Such soilless (dry) storage will allow the flower to hibernate and rest, gather strength for new seasons of growth and flowering, before which you should not forget to cut off the roots and branches by a third.
• The plants are dug up, the roots are significantly shortened and planted in prepared pots in a cool place. At the same time, they look very carefully at the moisture entering the plant. It is equally harmful to overwater or dry a flower. Lighting is greatly reduced. The conditions for winter exposure of geraniums can be described as twilight.

For indoor plant it is also necessary to change care in winter:

• move from heating appliances that dry out the air to a cooler place;
• reduce watering;
• reduce or stop feeding altogether.

In winter, flower growers are faced with the phenomenon of pelargonium leaves turning a reddish-reddish color.

Why do geranium leaves turn red?

The reason is that the plant freezes. Check if it is close to the cold glass of the window or if there is a draft directed directly at the plant. By “warming” the flower, you will get rid of this phenomenon. It will be useful to place the pot of geraniums in advance on a stand that does not conduct heat well (wood, foam) and move the leaves away from the icy touch of the window panes.