Arch and partitions made of drywall. Interroom plasterboard partition with an arch. Features of drywall arches in the interior

How to make a drywall partition? This question is asked not only by beginners in construction, who are afraid to spoil the materials, but by quite experienced workers. Indeed, in this area there are so many subtleties that without a detailed study of the topic, it is not worth making plasterboard partitions.

But why is there a need to use such partitions at all? The fact is that with the right approach, you can build additional walls, partitions and much more in a short time. At the same time, the walls are very even, strong enough and very light. This allows you to make redevelopment indoors without additional foundations.

Characteristics of materials allow to build partitions of any thickness and shape. The materials are easily combined with each other. It is easy to make a partition with open parts. Can be made with flower stands, books, TV and more. The partition is easily supplemented with sound insulation. To avoid resonating vibrations and other sounds, a layer of special noise insulation is laid.

The separation of the premises can be partial or complete. It is possible to make sure that the partition does not reach the ceiling or the floor. You can make it so that it does not adjoin the side walls.

Types of material used

Depending on the purpose, there are several types of drywall that are suitable for different rooms:

Wall. Designed for the construction of partitions in ordinary rooms. Such material is durable, easily withstands pressure from touching. Thickness 12.5 mm.
Ceiling. Used to create waves and other curves, as well as for a flat ceiling. Unlike wall, this type bends well because of its thickness of only 9 mm.
Moisture resistant. Apply in the bathroom and toilet, near the bathrooms and window frames and other places with high humidity. It differs in color from the wall. It has in its structure antiseptic agents that prevent the development of the fungus. Such drywall can be tiled with tiles and mosaics.
Fire resistant. This is wall plasterboard, which is reinforced with fiberglass. Differs in the best resistance to burning.
Arched. Used for curved surfaces. Used for ceiling cladding, partitions of complex shape. The most flexible type of drywall. The thickness of the sheet is 6 mm.
Acoustic. It is used for soundproofing a room. Used for both wall cladding and partitions. In its structure, such a sheet has perforation, and a special canvas that dampens noise.

No need to use one type of this material instead of another.

By type of design, there are many options for plasterboard partitions. We will consider the construction of the simplest partition with even walls.

Frame erection

The construction of a plasterboard partition begins with the installation of a frame. It is attached to the ceiling and to the floor. Therefore, work on their installation must be completed before the construction of the partition begins.

For the frame, we need metal profiles that will be lined with drywall sheets, as well as a wooden beam, which is used to reinforce parts of the frame.

For the construction of the frame, you can use a profile of 60x27 mm. Before starting partition planning, measure wall deflections bearing walls in the building relative to the water level and plumb. This will be needed to retreat the place in the right direction and put the vertical parts of the frame evenly. It is also necessary to measure the level of the floor to which the bottom of the frame and the level of the ceiling will be screwed. You also need to measure the distance from the ceiling to the floor at the extreme points of the location of the partition frame and diagonally from opposite points. If the diagonals match, there are no deviations in the water level and the distance from the ceiling to the floor is the same, then we proceed to the layout of the frame.

It is necessary to plan in advance where and what will be attached to the wall to strengthen the frame at the assembly stage. The fact is that the frame can play, despite the fact that it is hard and strong. However, the frame can bend if you hang a TV on it or install a shelf with books. To prevent this from happening, plan the location of all attachments in advance.

After that, we proceed to the marking of metal profiles. We expose the bottom profile and fasten it to the floor with self-tapping screws. Next, we outline the holes on the ceiling and wall into which the dowel nails will be placed. We drill holes with a drill or puncher. We put the metal profile and fasten it to the ceiling, we do the same for the profile on the wall. In this case, the corners of the guide profiles are inserted into each other.

If the length of the profile is not enough, then take two identical profiles and insert one into the other to get an overlap of 30-40 cm and fix it in the right place. If necessary, the profiles can be twisted with self-tapping screws on the sides.

After you have fixed the lower, upper and outer side profiles, install one vertical profile in the middle of the partition, which is 1 cm shorter in length than the distance from the floor to the ceiling. If it is normal, then proceed to the further installation of the frame.

To do this, you need to mark the drywall sheet so that the distance between the profiles is the same. And so that the edge of the sheet falls on the profile. The recommended distance between the profiles is 30 -40 cm. At the joints of the drywall sheets, it is necessary to twist two profiles with self-tapping screws. This will give solidity and additional rigidity to the frame. So sheets of drywall will not walk separately and break the outer cladding.

After installing the vertical profiles, you need to further strengthen the frame. To do this, we take pieces of the profile, and cut them along the length between the vertical profiles. But the front part is left 45 mm longer on each side. On them, these pieces will be screwed to the vertical profiles.

Before fixing horizontal profiles, it is necessary to measure the height drywall sheet. We fasten the first 3-5 pieces of profiles closer to the ceiling at a height that corresponds to the height of the drywall sheet. Next, we measure the same distance from the ceiling profile down and fix 3-5 profiles at this height. This is done to get a stronger wall.

Next, we outline the places where the shelves, TV, etc. will be attached. In these places, you need to insert horizontal pieces of the profile, but first they need to be strengthened. We take a wooden beam, which is tightly inserted into the profile and almost does not play in different directions. We fasten with two self-tapping screws to the profile, from the side of the profile. It is also desirable to reinforce the vertical parts of the profiles to which the reinforced horizontal piece is attached. Here it is desirable to fasten the horizontal profile to the vertical one with two self-tapping screws on each side. Such reinforcement and additional self-tapping screws will prevent the frame from twisting and wall deformation.

Now it's time to install the drywall boards on our frame. Previously, we have already marked out the plates with the attachment points for all vertical profiles. We mark with a marker or pencil the centers of the profiles on the floor and on the ceiling. We make marks at least two centimeters in length, strictly perpendicular to the frame. Next, try on the marked sheet of drywall. If the lines on the drywall coincide with the marks from the profiles on the floor and ceiling, then we begin to attach the sheet to the frame. Fasten with metal screws. Depending on the number of layers of gypsum boards, self-tapping screws 25 or 35 mm long are used. They begin to mount along the extreme profiles, along the floor and ceiling. Self-tapping screws are screwed on the marked lines in a checkerboard pattern. On the central part, fewer screws are used.

Next, you need to dock the top sheet to the already screwed one. But, this must be done in such a way that in the future there will be no cracks in the joints of the sheets. To do this, chamfers are removed on both sheets. Next, install a piece of sheet on the frame and screw it. Sheets of drywall should fit snugly together.

The following sheets are also placed along the lines, joined to the ceiling or to the floor. It depends on the place of fastening of horizontal profiles in a checkerboard pattern.

After you have screwed all the sheets on one side, we perform the same operation on the reverse side.

The side parts of the drywall partition are sheathed with residual drywall sheet scraps. Just cut off a piece of the desired width with a tolerance of 5 mm and install it, fixing it on the metal profile.

If you are making a solid partition, dividing the room tightly. Then you will need to make a doorway with a door, or with an arch.

Doorway in the partition

At the stage of erecting the frame, it is necessary to strengthen its profiles wooden beam, which will be almost the same size as the profile. It is also necessary to install a partition above the door. If you want, you can strengthen it with a bar as well.

If there was no beam, that is Alternative option amplification. You can put an additional profile on top of each side of the opening and fasten them together with self-tapping screws. So you will achieve the desired rigidity.

And most simple option there will be an installation of a profile made of thicker metal than other profiles on the partition.

All these operations are necessary for more convenient installation. door frame, for greater stability of this design during operation and to prevent cracks on the partition.

Placing drywall sheets correctly in the doorway is also an important part. If this is not done, then cracks will appear on the lining very quickly. Despite the strengthening of the frame. We take the sheets and place them so that the joint is closer to the center of the opening, but not in the very center. We fasten the sheets, cut out doorway by frame. On the other side of the partition, we do the same, but the place of the seam should not coincide with the already mounted side of the partition.

How to make an arch in a partition?

To do this, we need to make a frame, like for a door. Next, there are two options:

We perform all the steps that we did for a regular door in a partition. Then we take a piece of the sheet, mark it out and cut out an arc with the desired rounding.
A simpler but more accurate method is used when drywall sheets are joined. Then screw them on. After that, make an accurate markup with inside and cut out the shape of the arch on it. The same operation is done on the other side of the wall.

Next, you need to take a metal profile and cut its side faces perpendicular to the central one. Then gently and evenly bend in the shape of an arch. Next, we fasten the curved profile to the drywall part of the arch along the cut line. We take another profile and do the same on the other side if the partition is too wide. If not, then we fasten the same profile to the sheet on the other side.

Then we cut a sheet of drywall along the width of the opening. Next, you need to bend this sheet in the shape of an arch. To do this, we make mirror cuts on this sheet. They need to be done every 4-5 centimeters until it adjoins tightly to the metal profile. The cuts must be made not deep, so as not to accidentally cut the sheet in half. When you have docked the sheet to the profile, you need to screw the sheet to it. Screw should be on each plane. Which were formed as a result of bending the sheet.

Finishing work of plasterboard partitions

After the completion of the main construction work, for the partition it is necessary to do a number of finishing works to give it an attractive look.

There are several options for finishing a plasterboard partition:

Paste with wallpaper;
paint;
Decorate with ceramic tiles.

Wallpapering

The easiest way to finish is wallpapering. Before proceeding with gluing, it is necessary to putty the partition. To do this, use tile adhesive. In the case of wallpapering, it is enough to go through the putty once. Then the surface is cleaned with sandpaper twice. Before gluing, it is not necessary to prime the partition. Any wallpaper will do. They will look great, because the plasterboard partition is ideal flat surface. This method is the least expensive. Work is carried out quickly.

Be sure to putty the places where there are caps of screws and self-tapping screws. The joints between the sheets also need to be removed.

Painting

Unlike wallpaper for painting, it is necessary to carefully prepare the surface of the partition. It should be putty in 2 layers. Beforehand, the joints must be smeared with a special putty for drywall, on which cracks do not appear when dried. If there are no errors on the surface of the partition, then proceed to painting. If there is, then carefully go through these places with fine-grained sandpaper.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

It is used in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet and other places where waterproof drywall is used. Before installing the tiles, it is necessary to prime the surface of the partition. The tile is then installed with tile adhesive.

Having understood the technology of erecting drywall partitions, you can independently build it yourself. Picking up the right materials and tools.

One way to increase living space is to remove doors. But it is not always possible or willing to destroy the walls. Then the former doorway is made out in the form of an arch. Another option for using arched openings is to divide a long corridor into zones, breaking up too simple geometry. When repairing on their own, drywall arches are most often made: they are the easiest to do with your own hands.

Types of arches

Interior or corridor arches can have a different shape. They differ mainly in the shape of the upper part and sometimes in the way they are connected to the vertical parts. Their main types are shown in the photo.

This group is missing one of the most popular in Lately- semi-arch. They have a rounded corner on one side only, on the other it remains straight. Hence the name - semi-arc. It looks good in modern interiors: minimalism, hi-tech, maybe in art deco.

The classic is distinguished by the correct shape of the top. This is strictly a semicircle, the radius of which is equal to half the width of the doorway. This view looks good with an opening height of at least 2.5 m. It fits well into any interior, but looks best in a long corridor, or instead front door to the kitchen.

The arched opening in the Modern style is distinguished by a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical components of the opening. It looks good if the walls and ceiling have more or less simple design. Looks great in place of the former balcony door, good at the entrance to the office.

The arch of the “Romance” style is rather just rounded corners (mostly masters call it that). It looks good with a large width and not the greatest height.

The "romantic" shape is good with a large width and small height

The shape of the "ellipse" is very close to the "romantic". It differs only in greater curvature in the middle part. Also suitable for low and wide openings. It just looks a little softer.

A trapezoid is a non-standard design consisting of broken lines. It is hard to play up in the interior, therefore it is used infrequently: for some non-standard designs.

One of the design options is a trapezoid

It is very similar to a regular opening, but it is, in fact, it is, only without door leaf. For greater originality, it is often accompanied by wooden carved elements in the form of columns on the sides. Good for this kind classic interiors, as well as ethnic style - Greek or Roman, depending on the type of columns.

For decoration in modern styles use another prim - next to the main arch, they have smaller portals. This technique allows you to "beat" a simple form.

Another version of the arch "portal"

Before you start making an arch, you need to decide on its parameters. select the type, and then the options: where it will start from, and what the radius of curvature will be. It can be a really sharp bend, or it can just be some rounding of the corners.

To understand how your chosen shape will look, you can cut a template out of cardboard and attach it to the doorway. Rate the effect. If everything suits you, you can make a blank according to this template. But only one - for one of the sides of the opening. The second must be done in place, otherwise it will turn out crooked.

Step-by-step instructions with photos: the fastest way

Do-it-yourself drywall arches different ways. This takes the minimum amount of time. Having decided on the form, we proceed to installation. On the prepared opening - cleaned of peeling plaster and relatively leveled, we fix the frame according to the size of the future arch. It is made from a profile for drywall or a dry wooden block of a suitable size. Sometimes, if the wall is narrow, you can only pick up wood.

To begin with, we cut out a rectangle from drywall according to the size of the future arch, find its middle, mark it, and then temporarily screw it into place. We retreat from the edge of 12.5 mm - the thickness of the drywall sheet. If the adjacent walls are already plastered, add a couple more millimeters to the putty so that the surface can be leveled.

Now we take a piece of a profile or a hard corner, set aside half the width of the opening from one edge. At this place in the corner we make a hole, insert a carnation into it. We stick this nail into the middle of the doorway marked by us earlier on the sheet. It turns out a kind of compass, with which it is easy to draw a perfect line.

Arc delineator

By changing the height of the mount, you can get a more or less high arch. If you need a flatter curve, increase the length of the "compass".

Having removed the sheet, we cut out the arc along the outlined contour. This can be done with a special saw for drywall, a saw for metal - with small tooth for a smoother edge, with a jigsaw (there will be a lot of dust). If the cut turned out to be not very even, we level it with a grater fixed on a grater. sandpaper. With this device we achieve a perfectly even curve of the shape we need. The cut out fragment of the arch - the side wall - is again fixed in place.

If everything is even, there are no distortions or irregularities, on the other side of the opening we attach the same drywall sheet as a few steps earlier - a rectangle or a square - depending on the shape. It must be fixed strictly vertically. Now transfer the shape of the arch to it. We take a square, at a right angle and with one side we press against the drywall, on which we transfer the arch, with the other side - to the arch. Having set the square perpendicularly, we mark a point with a pencil. We make such points along the entire arc. The more often they are made, the easier it will be to draw a line and the match will be more accurate - there will be less grinding.

Why is it so difficult and not just to make a copy of the first sheet? Because few openings are symmetrical. As a result, it is very problematic to install the second sheet so that the lines of the arch coincide.

Having noted all the points, we remove the sheet, draw a line, cut it out along it. We mount in place. Now again we take a trowel with sandpaper and now we level both edges until they completely match. One point - the trowel should be wider than the opening so that both walls of the arch are captured in one pass.

We measure the length of the arc, cut out a piece of the profile of the same length, make notches on the walls every 3-4 cm. This tape will need to be fixed along the arch of the arch from one side and the other.

We fasten it to self-tapping screws, carefully, pressing the profile and holding it with a bar, and not with your fingers: it is elementary to get into your fingers with a self-tapping screw. By the way, you need to work with a cut profile with gloves. If not, you will cut your hands for sure.

By the way, the back of the profile can be set along the edge - it’s easier to work, and then the joint will still have to be sealed. Screw the strip to the other side in the same way.

This is a bottom view - profiles are attached to the sides

There is a second way to attach the profile - put it on a quick-setting universal glue, such as liquid nails. This method is acceptable if the width of the opening is small. With a large thickness of the arch, the adhesive may not withstand the mass of drywall, which will be attached from below.

The next step is to attach the jumpers. First, the depth of the arch is lost, 1-1.5 cm is subtracted from it. This will be the length of the jumpers. Cut pieces of a profile of this length.

Jumpers are cut from the same profile

In the places where the jumpers are attached, the “petals” are cut off, the prepared fragment is installed and fixed. It should not rest against the walls, it is located approximately 5 mm from the back. Jumpers are needed to make the design more rigid, otherwise it “walks” when pressed.

Next, from the drywall, you need to cut a rectangle that will cover the structure from below. Its width is determined simply - from the outer edge of one sheet of plasterboard, to the outer edge of the second sheet. The length is measured with a flexible tape (it can be tailor-made) or a tape measure with an assistant. We fasten this sheet with screws to the arch frame. The sheet has to be bent, and how to do this, read a little lower - towards the end of the article.

Arched opening made of drywall: the second method (photo report)

This method is good if the thickness of the partition is small: try attaching the profiles if the gap between them is several centimeters, and then attach the jumpers. It all starts the same way: the first wall of the arch is cut out, fastened and transferred to the second sheet.

After the width of the gap between the two sheets, wooden crossbars are cut out, which are attached along the edge of the arch to self-tapping screws.

The cut-out strip of drywall is fixed, starting from one side. To make it more convenient, you can fix it with clamps, since the thickness of the wall is small. When attaching the strip, you can focus on the screws with which the bars were screwed. That way you'll hit the crossbar for sure.

Then it remains only to fix a special perforated corner along the corner and level the irregularities.

A corner is attached along the vault of the arch, everything is puttied

It is also more convenient to level the dried putty along the arch of the arch with the entire plane of sandpaper fixed on a grater. It is unpleasant that dust falls into the eyes, so it is almost impossible to work without glasses.

How to make an arch instead of a door: the third method - typesetting

Another way to make drywall arches with your own hands is stacking. The vault is broken into segments and assembled from pieces that create close to the required curvature.

They are attached to putty, diluted with a mixture of PVA and water. Such a batch dries quickly, so first we cut the plates and try them on. It can be folded on the table, only the vault will turn upside down, but it will allow you to evaluate how correctly the plates are assembled.

Then the plates begin to be attached to the opening, for reliability, periodically reinforcing with self-tapping screws. Washers are placed under the heads - so as not to push through the cardboard. Remove excess putty immediately. If it gets stuck, it's impossible to tear it off. The finished surface is primed to improve adhesion (adhesion), and then puttied, leveling the arch. To make it easier to display, you can use a template attached on both sides.

Making sharp bends using this technology is not easy, and for rounded corners and semi-arches it is a great way to do without profiles.

How to bend drywall

One important detail: standard wall drywall bends poorly. For curved surfaces, a thin one was specially invented - 6 and 6 mm thick. This bent part is easier to make from it. With a slight curvature thin sheet can be bent easily and without tricks. If there is no desire to buy thin GVL, there are two ways to bend the standard one.

First- take a needle roller and roll the cut segment well on one side. You need to roll with effort so that the plaster breaks. Then the leaf is wetted with water and left for two to three hours. After such procedures, it should bend well. Take it, fix it on one side, and gradually pressing it against the arch frame, bend it, screwing it gradually along the edges with self-tapping screws. The method is not bad, only with a lack of experience and insufficient processing of gypsum, the sheet may burst. You will either have to mask the gap later, or start over.

Second way to bend drywall: on one side, make notches with a knife about every 4-5 cm. The notches should cut the paper. Such a strip is also gradually fixed, breaking the gypsum as necessary. It bursts along the incision lines from a light pressure.

Forms of arched openings

Interroom door arches are selected not only based on taste preferences, but also depending on certain parameters: ceiling height and. The structures are made of drywall, wood, MDF, PVC. Drywall is the easiest to work with as it is the most flexible material.

Currently there are a large number of different types arches that vary in shape. The most common are:

Arched openings also have various designs and on the basis of this are divided into several varieties:

After looking closely at your interior and choosing the right arch model, you can start phased implementation work.

Step-by-step instructions for self-production

To avoid wasting money on finished goods, finishing the arched opening can be done by yourself. To do this, you need to follow a well-established scheme.

Making the necessary measurements

Any construction process requires accuracy, which is achieved by preliminary measurements. You need to start from the opening itself, so first measure its width and height. The size of the span between the walls of the opening is equal to the width of the arch. In order to make a semicircle as accurately as possible, this indicator must be divided by two.

Before making the arch, you need to decide on its future configuration. If you are going to do it in classical style, then pre-align the walls. Otherwise, the design will look ugly. You can remove all defects from a vertical surface with putty or plaster using beacons.

Creating a Structural Frame

To make the installation of the frame, you must perform a series of sequential steps:

Along the opening lines with dowels, a contour of metal profile. Vertical guides are set indented from the surface of the interior wall. The size of the indent is equal to the thickness of the drywall sheet and the plaster layer (about 0.2 cm).
We install two such profiles parallel to each other on each side.
For the frame device, two profiles are installed in parallel
Having finished working with the profiles, we take up the installation of the first sheet of drywall. If its thickness is 1.25 cm, then it is recommended to fasten it with 3.5x35 self-tapping screws. If the GKL thickness is not more than 0.95 cm, use smaller screws.
Drywall fixed with self-tapping screws
Sheathe the second side of the frame with drywall.
Make a metal profile in the shape of an arc. To do this, cut with special scissors side walls profile every 7 centimeters. As a result of these actions, it is easier for him to give the required shape. For an arched structure, two such blanks are required.
An arched arc is made from the profile
Install and fasten the arcuate profiles to the main part of the frame.
The arcuate profile is attached to the main part of the frame
In order for the arcs to be securely fixed, they are attached with suspensions to a straight guide located on top. The number of hangers depends on the width of the opening. Usually three pairs are enough.
In increments of 0.4-0.6 m, attach reinforcing crossbars along the perimeter of the frame, fixing them on the guides of the two contours.
As a result of the above actions, a reliable metal structure in the form of an arch from the profile. In the future, it will be covered with plasterboard or plywood.

If it is assumed that the columns of the arches will not be too large in thickness, then it is permissible to change 2 arcs to a wide profile. Cutting and bending is done in exactly the same way. Only in this case, the installation of crossbars is not required.

Sometimes instead of a metal profile they use wooden slats. The technology of mounting the frame does not change significantly.

Bending drywall sheet

After installing the frame, they are accepted for bending the GKL. Experts recommend using drywall, designed specifically for arched structures. He easily accepts desired shape if the material is washed in the longitudinal direction.

If you decide to use ordinary drywall, then you will have to tinker with it. Mounting element cut out right size in the form of a rectangle. Bend it in two ways: wet and dry.

Scheme for manufacturing a bend

The wet method takes a lot of time and is not rushed. So that the material does not crack when bent, it is moistened with water and punctures are made. In this form, the drywall sheet is left to lie for some time, and then it is bent on a template of the desired configuration.

The dry method refers to the application to wrong side GCR cuts parallel to each other. The cut goes deep into the sheet, affecting the outer cardboard layer and gypsum. The cardboard layer on the front side remains intact.

With the dry method, the bend of the installation element takes the correct shape. At the same time, it is important to know that sawing GKL is best done with a jigsaw, and not with a hacksaw. Then the edges will not be torn.

Rough frame trim

If the bend was carried out by the wet method, then first of all it is necessary to wait until the drywall sheet is completely dry. The material is fixed first with adhesive tape, and then with self-tapping screws. The minimum step between them should be from 5 to 6 centimeters.

Perforated corner prevents edge chipping

After fixing the sheathing, the edges of the drywall sheet are cleaned. And in order to prevent chipping of the curved edge, a perforated plastic corner.

Leveling with putty

To make the surface even, you need to finish the arched structure. To begin with, a primer is applied, and after it dries, putty. Fiberglass mesh is used to reinforce the second layer and strengthen the corners..

Fiberglass mesh reinforces the corners of the arch

The last third layer of putty is applied to the grid. After about 10 hours, it dries up, after which you can start cleaning up the bumps with sandpaper. With a quality work done, the surface will be without roughness, irregularities, and the caps of the self-tapping screws will not be visible in it.

Ways to finish arches

Those who wish to finish the arches on their own will have to work hard, cutting out each detail separately. However, many do not look for difficulties and choose a simple path - they acquire factory structures from prefabricated elements.

Ready-made and prefabricated linings

There are two types of factory-made overlay: wooden and foam.

Styrofoam elements

Foam arches are often preferred as an alternative to plaster products. The advantages of such structures are as follows:

Fast installation. The installation speed is much higher than arched structures made of plywood or plasterboard.
Low price.
Easy transportation. Styrofoam is a fairly light material, so you do not need to hire movers to deliver the product to your home.
Light weight. Arches of this type can be installed even on very weak structures.
Various forms.

Foam arches are assembled from prefabricated elements and cut in place to fit the size of the opening

The negative sides of the arched foam structure are: fragility, toxicity, rapid flammability.

Wood elements

Wooden arched structures do not require advertising. They look rich and rarely do not fit any interior style. However, it should be understood that the word "wooden" does not mean that all components are made of pine, oak or other wood.

The arch can be made from natural wood, MDF, chipboard or plywood

Arched elements are also made from inexpensive MDF, laminated chipboard, plywood, veneered. Desired option is selected individually based on the taste and thickness of the wallet.

wooden elements ordered from a catalog and then cut to length before installation

Installation wooden structures simple to do. IN construction stores arches are sold both assembled and disassembled. The first option is considered more reliable, since the work was performed by a specialist.

Decorating with finishing materials

Currently, there are many ways to beautifully and neatly. The decor is selected so that it is in harmony in color, texture, material with the home environment. The most popular options are:

Simple staining. The arch will look elegant and complete if it is simply painted white, Brown color or to match the walls. This finish is often complemented decorative elements, backlit.
Monochrome painting looks advantageous in combination with backlighting
Wallpapering. This is the fastest, most affordable and easy process. For these purposes, vinyl or non-woven options are best suited.
Slopes highlighted with wallpaper - a very stylish design move
Finishing with wooden, plastic clapboard. The method guarantees not only a beautiful aesthetic appearance, but also ensures the durability of the structure, its protection from moisture and mechanical damage.
The clapboard option is great for interiors with wall decoration from the same material.
Decorative plaster. The surface of the arch is beautiful, embossed and durable. True, such a finish needs to be restored sometimes, and it requires some care.
This method looks especially advantageous in deep arches.
Stone. Arch in a house made of natural or artificial stone installed only with the help of a professional. Finishing fascinates the eye, makes the interior unusual.
The ragged edges of the arch can be the highlight of any interior.
Cork- it is quite expensive, but environmentally friendly material. He lends himself easily mechanical damage, therefore, to prolong its service life, it is recommended to cover the cork with wax.
Cork finish brings a sense of environmental friendliness and comfort to the interior
Clinker tiles. This finish will last for years. It does not attract dirt and does not require special care.
Finishing with clinker tiles - unlimited space for interesting solutions

Once upon a time, only a professional could make an arch. This was before the advent of drywall. Now a beginner can make an arch from drywall. You don't need a special tool for this, the technology itself is simple and straightforward - just follow our instructions.

Where to begin

The most common arches simple forms- part of a circle or oval. They are best suited for most traditional interior styles, where correct forms and symmetry. In addition, they are the easiest to make with your own hands.

1. Classic rounded arch. 2. Modern. 3. Romance. 4. Ellipse. 5. Trapeze. 6. Semiarca

But first you need to decide whether the height of the vault will be sufficient. And if for a niche in the wall the dimensions do not play a special role, then for the passage between the rooms the ratio of the width of the arch and the distance from the floor to the point of junction of the arch with the wall of the opening means a lot.

The wider the opening in which the arch is formed, the greater the bending radius will be required so that the shape of the arch is proportionate

Usually they are guided by a simple ratio of a standard interior door - 80-100 cm wide by 200 cm high. That is, a rectangle of such dimensions should be inscribed in a “pure form” in the plane of the opening, taking into account the arch. Following this rule, you can determine that the width of the opening:

100 cm corresponds to the height of the lower points of the arch about two meters;
200 cm - about 180 cm;
300 cm - about 160 cm.

It follows from this that if the arch is made where the standard interior door, then the height of the opening will have to be increased.

The easiest way is to arrange an arch in a new place during redevelopment, when interior partitions are re-installed. And here we must already remember the recommended distance from the top point of the arch to the ceiling - usually it is 40-60 cm. Often the height of the ceilings does not allow the arch to be “fitted” in accordance with this rule, and this point is raised a little higher. But even in this case, you should not reduce the clearance to the ceiling level of less than 30 cm.

Once the indicative values for the junction points with the opening and for the height of the vault are set, the arch in the opening can be modeled from improvised means and make sure that it corresponds to the general plan.

It is convenient to use a special plastic corner for arches, which will ultimately be used when finishing the opening.

One of simple ways modeling is the use of a long strip of flexible material as a pattern, for example, plastic plinth with hard edges. The plinth is applied with edges at the lowest points archway, arched to the height of the arch, if necessary, change the shape of the arch by adjusting the degree of bending. They mark the junction points of the arch with the opening and put the corresponding marks on the plinth.

Drywall blanks

For the walls of the arch, you need to cut out two rectangles from the plasterboard. The dimensions of the blank are the width of the opening and the distance from the junction point of the arch in the opening to the overlap of the opening itself (or to the ceiling for new partitions).

Then, on one of the blanks, with the help of a plinth, the shape of the arch is modeled. To do this, aligning one of the marks on the plinth with the corner of the workpiece, it is bent until the second mark is aligned in the corner of the workpiece opposite in width. Draw an arc on the workpiece with a pencil and cut out the first wall. And already it will serve as a pattern for cutting the second wall.

To get a sector along the radius, it is better to use an awl, a nail and a pencil tied with a thread or rope. The length of the thread from the pencil to the nail will determine the radius of the sector.

L is the width of the opening, H is the height of the arch, R is the radius of the sector, D is the stock of material equal to the thickness of the finish of the ends of the opening

If an ellipse is needed, then two nails are fixed on the blank under the arch along the long side, stepping back the same distance from both sides by about 10-15 cm. A thread is tied to the nails so that it sags freely, and when pulled along the edge of the sheet, reaches its edge . The pencil is wound up by the thread and the shape of the arch is outlined.

For the vault of the arch, you can use a strip of ceiling plasterboard (it is thinner, only 9.5 mm), but the remainder of the standard sheet is also suitable, since with a small strip width it is easy to give it the necessary shape. The size of the blank for the vault is equal in length to the distance between the marks on the plinth, and in width to the thickness of the wall in the opening. The narrow sides of the workpiece are cut at the ends along one side of the corner so that the vault fits snugly at the ends of the walls of the opening.

Arch frame formation

The supporting frame for the walls is usually made from a metal rack profile. Depending on the materials of the partition and its thickness, the width of the profile may vary.

So if the arch is mounted in an opening where the walls are made of gypsum board, then use the same CW rack profiles that are in the supporting structure. In this case, the profiles are fixed in the opening with metal screws.

For walls made of bricks, building blocks (gas or foam concrete, gypsum), monolithic concrete the width of the rack profile is selected individually. It is often easier to use a double frame (one for each wall of the arch) from a narrow CW profile with a 50 mm back than to select a wide profile for a single frame. For fastening to the wall, dowels are used, and for each material they select their own type of fastener. If the frame is mounted from a narrow profile, the holes for the dowel are drilled at an angle so that the edge of the opening does not crumble.

For side posts, the profiles must have a length equal to the distance from the opening overlap to the junction points with the arch. Since the arch “fits” in the opening to the partition at an angle of less than 90 °, the lower corners of the profile are cut so that they do not protrude beyond the edge of the arch walls.

If the frame is mounted in a plasterboard partition, then it is clearly visible how it should be fixed so that the arch is flush with the wall surface.

For partitions made of other materials, when attaching the frame, it is necessary to retreat from the edge of the wall by a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard plus the thickness of the finish (and this is at least 1-2 mm per putty layer for wallpapering or painting).

If the wall has a layer decorative plaster or lined wall panels, then the fastening of the frame should go to the main material of the wall so that the walls of the arch are in the same plane with the surface of the partition itself, and not its decorative finishes. This rule is performed on each side of the arch.

Arch installation

The walls of the arch are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance between the attachment points of 15 to 25 cm, but not less than three points on each side. The distance from the corner to each extreme attachment point should be within 5-10 cm, and the attachment line should be at a distance of 15-20 mm from the edge of the arch wall.

If the arch has built-in lighting, then the wires should be laid in advance, leaving leads or loops at least 15 cm long

After both walls are fixed, two strips of an arched profile are screwed to them from the inside through drywall to fasten the arch. If there is no arched profile, then it is made from a CD profile, symmetrically cutting wedges on the sides at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other.

To bend the strip of the workpiece in an arc, it is moistened with a sponge on both sides before installation. Then, on the one hand, it is rolled with a needle roller (another way is to prick with an awl over the entire surface by 1/3 of the sheet thickness) and once again moisten only on the perforated side. They put it on the floor at an angle to it and the wall. When the workpiece begins to bend under its own weight, it is screwed into place to the arched profiles.

Finishing work

The final stage begins when the vault dries:

the surface of drywall is primed;
seams and joints with the wall are reinforced with sickle, and the ribs of the vault are reinforced with a plastic perforated corner;
putty, rubbing attachment points, seams and joints;
"bring out" the corners at the ribs;
dry and grind.