When starting an apartment or house renovation, people strive to make their home as comfortable, stylish and elegant as possible. One of the most popular design ideas is the design of the doorway in the form of a semicircular arch. Having studied the technology, it is quite possible to make an arch from gypsum plasterboard with your own hands.
Using an arched structure, you can influence the design of the entire environment and set the tone for the arrangement of the entire interior.
Arched structures are used not only for the design of doorways, but also for zonal division of the corridor. In this article you will learn how to make an arch from gypsum plasterboard with your own hands.
Necessary tools and material
The tools you will need are a screwdriver, a tape measure, a construction square, a pencil, a spatula, a grater, a container, a knife, a sponge, a drill, a jigsaw, and metal scissors.
Draw the outline of the arch on the drywall. To draw the top of the arched structure, use homemade compass from a self-tapping screw screwed into drywall and a thread and a pencil tied to it
The longer the thread is, the larger the arc radius will be. Here you have the opportunity to experiment until you get the arch shape you want.
The blade of the tool must cut through the material strictly according to the markings - the quality of the arch directly depends on this. Next, start creating the arched frame. It can be metal or wood. Both options have their advantages: aluminum profile characterized by evenness and lightness, and wood is distinguished by great strength.
If you have a concrete wall, then you first need to make holes using a drill, insert dowels into them and only then screw in the screws.
Then, after attaching all the profiles to the wall, begin installing the gypsum board. The sheets are installed using a screwdriver. The size of the screws depends on the thickness of the drywall.
Secure the curved aluminum profile along the edge of the gypsum board. This will increase the rigidity of the structure. First, attach both ends of the curved track to the metal frame, and then screw the plasterboard sheets to it. You need to screw in the screws in increments of 0.1-0.15 m.
Mount perpendicular pieces of profile to connect the side walls of the arched structure to each other.
Secure the lower arc-shaped arch section. Using a tape measure, measure the length and width of the arc. Cut out the appropriate piece from the gypsum board. Attach it to the bottom of the arch, carefully bending it to give the desired shape.
The edges of the plasterboard rectangle should be flush with the walls of the arch. Secure the section with self-tapping screws on both sides of the arc. Start from the center of the arch.
Inspect the resulting structure and eliminate minor defects. Proceed to finishing. Cover the edges of the gypsum board with fiberglass mesh or paper tape.
Apply putty (at least 3 layers). Sand thoroughly with a float. The arch is ready. All that remains is to paint it.
Types of arches
Exist different types plasterboard arches. They usually differ in the configuration of the top, and in some cases, in the method of connection to the vertical segments.
The photo of plasterboard arches shows that they are usually divided into six types:
- Classic.
- Modern.
- Romance.
- Ellipse.
- Trapezoid.
- Portal.
The semi-arch is also distinguished separately.
Making and installing an arched structure yourself is not that difficult. You just need to study the technology and choose the appropriate design for a plasterboard arch. We wish you success.
Photo of a plasterboard arch
Arches for doorways have been used since ancient times. The arch is very aesthetic, today it is not only beautiful, but also allows you to save space, complement the interior and carry out the work yourself, with your own hands.
As a rule, plasterboard is used, it is not expensive, it is easy to work with and you can make any arched opening. The frame of the arches can be anything, you can install a platband and a variety of finishing materials.
Shape selection
The type of arch can be any, even from several levels, with different nearby and functionality, the correct measurement of the door opening is initially made. The main types of arches are presented in the table:
| Arch type: | Description: |
|---|---|
| Parabolic arch: | A beautiful and easy-to-make arch. Made from flexible plastic, for example, a threshold. A mark is made in the middle, which will be the top point of the arch. Next, the material is bent in the form of an arc. The arch is placed on a plaster or other sheet and a template is made, at which point the arch blank will be ready. |
| Circular arch: | IN wood material(bar), you need to screw the self-tapping screw and tie the twine to make a compass. They can be used to make an arch template. Next, using a compass, you need to draw a circle of the arch on a sheet of paper. |
Once the contours of the arch have been drawn, cut out the shape using a jigsaw or regular knife. All cuts are made exactly along the lines; the quality of the arched opening depends on this. The classic version of arches is made according to the following principle:
- You need to measure the doorway and calculate the material.
- The instrument is being prepared.
- A template of arches, semicircular, round, oval and others is cut out.
- The frame is mounted in the opening using a metal profile or wood.
- Polyurethane, plasterboard, plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, foam plastic or other selected material are installed.
- The bottom of the arch is cut out and screwed to the side parts.
- The arch is being puttyed, finished and decorated.
Important! When deciding on the type of arches, you need to pay attention to the height of the ceiling and the width of the door opening. Some types are suitable for a wide but low opening, while others are the opposite.
The main forms are as follows:
- Portal - U-shaped arch, according to the design it can be in the form of waves or with many angles, one of the most popular types of opening.
- Classic arch - recommended for use for ceilings over 3 m, with a passage width of 90 cm.
- Romance - it is recommended to install it if the width of the opening is large, but the height to the ceiling is small.
- Modern is an alternative to any type of arches; it can be used in Khrushchev, where every centimeter of space is important. The corners of the arch are made sharp or rounded.
- A semi-arch is an ideal arch for zoning rooms.
- Straight arch - suitable for loft, hi-tech, modern style.
The photo shows ready-made false arches from the Leroy Merlin company, which do not need to be framed:
Knowing what types of ready-made arches for doorways exist, you need to decide on the materials and start working with your own hands.
DIY plasterboard arch (video)
Materials for work
You can’t just build an arch; you need to choose the material and prepare all the equipment. More often used plasterboard sheet, it is easy to use, you can remake the arch if desired, and its cost is low. Therefore, an example of working with gypsum boards will be described step by step below. An arched interior opening requires:
- GKL 9.5 mm.
- Profiles 27x28 mm and 60x27 mm.
- Self-tapping screws for attaching 3.5x25 mm drywall.
- Dowels to secure the frame in a 6x60 mm opening. Used for brick or concrete.
- Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2x12 mm.
- If the doorway is made of timber, then you need wood screws.
- Putties for gypsum boards.
- Needle roller.
- Perforated corners.
- Spatula.
- Pencil and tape measure for measuring and drawing.
- Screwdriver.
Having prepared the material, you need to mark and measure everything.
Measurements
Before , how to make an arch from plasterboard, measurements are taken in the doorways. The size of the opening itself is taken in height and width. When there is width, it is divided in two to create a perfect semicircle arch. The shape of the arch is determined for classic version You will need to additionally level the walls using putty and beacons. Naturally, the opening needs to be completely disassembled, prepared by removing dirt and dust from it, and if necessary, seal the cracks and voids with mortar. When the opening is ready, you can proceed to the next steps.
Installation of an interior arch
On the gypsum board, an arch design is made for a private house or apartment, the necessary picture is drawn, and then cut out with a knife, strictly along the lines. When one piece is cut correctly, a new side is drawn along its contours and another piece is cut out. Having prepared both pieces, you can mount them on the frame, but before that the correct frame is built. The work will look like this step by step:
- At the top of the opening, the profiles are fastened using dowels if the opening is brick. After this, the profile must be installed on the walls of the opening. The frame is mounted at two points of the door passage.
- Next, a profile is made in the form of an arc. Using scissors, you need to cut through the metal every 5-10 cm, after which the metal is bent to the desired shape. Previously cut pieces of drywall are used for the template. Installation is carried out with dowels, and the frame is covered with plasterboard using self-tapping screws. For arches you need 2 arcs.
- To make the frame strong, bars or pieces of profile are installed between the arches.
- The frame is ready, but the arch itself is not yet made. You will need to bend the drywall for installation at the bottom of the arch or make a composite element, the prefabricated bottom is made from pieces of drywall, and when bending you need to cut a piece, adding 10 cm to the sides. To prevent the material from cracking, it is wetted with a little water, passed with a needle roller and left for a couple of hours so that it is flexible. After this, you can bend the material and attach it to the frame, initially using tape and then self-tapping screws.
- After 12 hours, the beautiful arched opening will be ready and all that remains is to design and decorate the arch.
Here's how easy it is to install an arch in a doorway with your own hands. Using these tips, the production of arches will be fast. All voids in the arch can be left unchanged, or they can be used polyurethane foam, pouring it inside according to the instructions. Next, you need to cover your creation.
Doorway design
What to make arches from doorway is known, but how to decorate the arch in the doorways? You can decorate the finished structure different materials. Often the design is done using MDF, it can be finished modern material, For example, artificial stone, wood, wallpaper, paint and apply solid wood. When the arch opens into the kitchen, it is recommended to secure the curtain by immediately installing fasteners in the arch. Before sheathing and decorating the arch, you need to do a number of works, step-by-step instructions below:
- The surface of the arch is sanded with sandpaper, removing irregularities, creating a rounded edging.
- Seams, joints and places of self-tapping screws must be sealed using putty, but before this it is placed on a perforated corner plastic corner, you need to fix it directly into the putty.
- When the putty dries, sand everything again with sandpaper to remove any unevenness.
- The arch is coated with a primer and when it dries, it is applied finishing putty and sanded one last time.
The arrangement of the arch is completed, you need to select the finishing and place it on the finished opening. As you can see, it’s easy to make a homemade arched opening; anyone can assemble the frame and fix the drywall, not necessarily a master, even if they have little experience. It is recommended to make an arch, the same shape as the window, so that the interior is unified, although the opening itself can be modernized so that the house or cottage is transformed and functional. Finally, a video showing the work process, how much material is needed and how to make a rectangular arched opening with a rounded top:
Photo gallery of finished works
Related materials on the topic:
Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard arch with your own hands
Arches in an apartment: what are they, types, advantages
Interior arches for the kitchen: varieties and design
By removing swing doors, owners increase the usable area. Device instead plasterboard arch- the simplest and most affordable option.
Types of arched structures - choose for your apartment
Drywall arches are created in a variety of shapes, differing mainly in the upper part. Many styles have been developed - from the simplest to the complex. We will focus on those that even people without special skills can do. Having mastered the basics of creating arched openings, you can move on to more sophisticated designs.
One of the popular styles is classic with a strict top shape. This is a semicircle with a radius equal to half the width of the doorway. Looks good in an apartment of sufficient height, when the doorway is not lower than 2.5 m. Suitable for any interior, but best use– entrance to the kitchen or long corridor.
Close to classic style the portal only has a strict rectangular shape along its entire height. Ideal option for wooden houses, apartments with clear horizontal and vertical lines. Right angles in this design look elegant. Often add additional originality with wooden decorative elements threaded.
The style of the classic semicircular arch in the elliptical one is practically preserved. Its arch is made of different heights. Formula: the height of the arch is equal to half the width, does not apply. Ideal for apartments with low ceilings.
An even more simplified vault is characteristic of the romantic style. The craftsmen gave it the name “with rounded corners”. The shape allows you to create structures that are large and relatively low. Ideal for decorating a passage to a balcony connected to a room.
The top of the modern style arch has a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical parts. Looks good in rooms with simple design. Often installed instead of a door on a balcony or in an office.
The trapezoidal shape attracts supporters of non-standard design. The asymmetrical design also emphasizes the originality of the owners’ taste. interior arch. A popular form of recent times is the semi-arch. One side is semicircular, the other remains straight. Fits in modern styles minimalism, hi-tech, art decor.
The form and design must correspond overall design. The width of the arch and the height of the room are taken into account. Before making the arch, we determine the parameters, especially those related to the radius of curvature. Classic is suitable for apartments with ceilings of three meters or more. For arches in place of standard doorways, rounded corners are recommended. It is better to decorate a wide opening in Art Nouveau style.
Tip: to visually evaluate how door arch fits into the interior, we make a template and apply it to the doorway.
Preparation - design, materials, opening, installation of profiles
We start with a project that we draw to scale. We outline the location and type of the arch. We indicate the sizes and everything distinctive features. It’s even better to make a template that will help for further work, especially for a novice master.
The work will require tools: a hammer drill with a drill, a screwdriver or drill, a jigsaw, a drywall knife, and a hammer. For measurements you will need a tape measure and a level. We fasten everything with self-tapping screws, if the opening is brick - with dowels. We purchase UD and CD profiles from materials. For wooden frame You will need pieces of timber. We buy simple plasterboard for ordinary rooms, for places with high humidity– moisture resistant.
Next we prepare the doorway: dismantle the door leaf and frame. Depending on the intended size, you may have to expand the space. There is no need to plaster the sides: everything will be covered with sheets of drywall. We remove the peeling plaster and level the side parts. We do not achieve a perfectly vertical state: it is important that the sidewalls are more or less even for reliable fastening of the profile slats.
If we plan lighting, we install the wiring in advance. On uneven walls The depth of the arch is determined by the greatest thickness. We take all measurements in several places to avoid mistakes. An arched vault takes up to 15 cm, and the distance to the ceiling is required to be at least 20. Do not forget about this when calculating and marking the arch.
Cut two pieces according to the width of the arch metal profile. Four more will be needed for the sides. Their length is equal to the height minus the thickness of the profile rail. For installation on concrete or brick wall We make holes with a puncher, install dowels, and screw the profiles with self-tapping screws. For attachment to wooden walls we do without dowels, use self-tapping screws 50 mm long.
We retreat from the plane of the wall to a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall. For plaster, add another 2 mm. After 50 cm, we install reinforcing crossbars that reach from below to the place where the upper arc-shaped piece of drywall will join the sidewalls. To attach the arcuate element, you will need to install additional profiles, but we will not install them at this stage. We now have a base to which we will attach the casing.
Installation of an arch is the main method for creating any structures
For some reason, many people have particular difficulty with the arched part. You can read many instructions on how to make it with calculations and formulas. Maybe math lovers use them, but in practice everything turns out much simpler; you don’t need to remember the school course.
We take a piece of plasterboard, equal in width to the doorway, from which we will cut an arc. You'll need a straight line, better wooden slats, at one end of which we drive a nail. Find the middle on the sheet and draw a line. For a classic arch, we also drive a nail from the second end of the rail at a length from the first, equal to half the width of the arch.
We step back along the center line from the top of the sheet so that the top nail is at its edge, and press the bottom nail into the drywall. We came up with a kind of compass. We take the top of the plank and draw a semicircle, leaving a mark from the top nail. We have outlined the dimensions of the top part of the classic arch. If you need an oval one, move the lower point along the axis downwards, as much as you want to reduce the height, and draw a cutting line.
We cut the arc along the intended contour. We do this using a drywall or metal saw. You can use a jigsaw, but it creates a lot of dust. We smooth out any uneven cut that may occur with sandpaper, ensuring that the curve comes out in an ideal shape.
We carry out further actions in the following sequence:
- 1. Use self-tapping screws to attach a rectangle with a cut out arc to the frame. Temporarily screw the same one on the opposite side.
- 2. Take a square, place it on an unmarked piece of paper and use a pencil to mark the points that correspond to the cut out arc. We make them larger so that we can draw the most accurate curve possible from them.
- 3. Remove a piece of sheet and draw a line at the points. We cut off the excess and install the second arc in its permanent place.
A copy of the first arc should not be made: asymmetry is possible, so installing a second sheet with an absolute coincidence of the contours is problematic.
We take a smoothing iron so that its width is enough for two sheets, and align them. Then we install profiles between them. They need to be bent. We make cuts in the sides with scissors, bend them, and adjust them to fit. We fasten it to the drywall with self-tapping screws, holding the strip with a block so as not to injure your fingers. We set the back of the profile rail at the same level with the edge of the arcuate element.
Having attached both strips, we install jumpers between them. We cut the profile into pieces with a length that is 1 cm less than the depth of the arch. In the places where the jumpers are attached to the installed profile, we cut out the sidewalls from the inside and install the prepared fragments. The jumpers provide the necessary rigidity.
Next, we attach the sidewalls on both sides. The arc also needs to be covered with plasterboard. To do this you will have to bend it. This may seem impossible to the ignorant, because they are convinced that standard gypsum board is both fragile and rigid - it does not want to bend and breaks. We'll talk about how to give it the desired bend ahead.
Technology of working with drywall - how bends are made
For surfaces with curved lines, thin drywall is available. You can buy a sheet and install the required length. But the logic kicks in: why buy a whole one if you only need a small piece, of which there are plenty of purchased sheets? standard thickness? In general, everything is correct: a thick piece of paper can also be bent.
Usually simple and quick way. We place the workpiece cut to size on flat surface front side up. Take a square and draw lines 10 cm across with a pencil. We make cuts along them, approximately ⅔ of the thickness. The angle is not required, but desirable: a parallel bend will be of better quality. For arches with large bends, this method is most suitable.
We turn the workpiece over with the cuts facing up and apply it to the arch. We fix the upper part with self-tapping screws. From the center we gradually move towards the end. We screw in the screws every 10 cm on both sides. Little effort is required, the sequence is mirror-image. We do everything gradually, slowly, then the gypsum board will bend almost perfectly.
For those who do not like or do not know how to plaster, another method is recommended. After all, more than one layer of plaster will have to be applied to drywall bent using the previous method. A very steep bend using the proposed method, which is called wet, is difficult to obtain, but possible. Its advantages are that the bent fragment remains intact; there is no need to mask the damage with plaster: a regular finishing layer is applied.
You'll have to buy a roller with needles and make a template for bending. No special skills are required, but the process is lengthy and technological breaks must be observed. We do it as follows:
- 1. Cut out semicircle templates from fairly hard material. We install them vertically and fasten them together.
- 2. Sheet of drywall required sizes lay it flat and roll it with a roller. Wet it with water, but not too much, so that it seems slightly damp.
- 3. After 10 minutes of exposure, place the workpiece on the template - the unrolled side is below. The workpiece itself begins to sag, we carefully help without applying excessive force.
- 4. We wait about half an hour until moisture is felt to the touch. There is no need to wait any longer, it may dry out and the fragility will return.
Plaster and design – we give the product a finished look
A frame covered with plasterboard is a semi-finished product; it would have been better not to start without a high-quality finish at the finish. Many people don’t like this stage - it’s better to cut, drill, and fasten than to deal with mortar and sandpaper. Yes, the work is not easy, but necessary, since we decided to do everything with our own hands.
First, apply the primer and let it dry. Those who ignore this stage, wanting to save money and time, are wrong. It is the primer layer that allows the plaster to reliably adhere to the surface and not be torn away over time. We use acrylic putty, but it is better to apply a special one for drywall joints on the seams. It is more durable and does not crack later.
We seal joints, possible defects on drywall and screw heads. We try not to apply a lot of putty, otherwise we will have to remove it later. We pass with a spatula, taking away the excess. To hide unevenness, add strength, and prevent cracking, we cover the joints with fiberglass mesh. Overlaying the segments required length onto fresh putty. Make sure there are no folds. If you can’t align it, it’s better to tear it off and try again.
We cover the bend of the arch with mesh. There will definitely be folds here. To eliminate them, we cut the mesh in these places and glue it. Immediately apply the second layer over the mesh. We wait until it dries: it will become completely white. Sandpaper smooth the surfaces. Do not overdo it: the mesh should not be exposed. If this happens in some places, it is undesirable, but not scary.
Clean off any dust and apply the next layer over the entire surface. Again, wait until it dries and sand, but with finer-grain paper. Apply the finishing coat to a thoroughly cleaned surface. We wait long enough for the putty to dry well. The next day we start sanding using the finest sandpaper.
Sometimes painting an arch is enough to give it a finished and elegant look. But many want to achieve originality using the following techniques:
- sheathed with wood or plastic;
- cover with wallpaper, veneer;
- we use artificial stone finishing;
- decorate with mirrors, mosaics;
- decorate with stucco molding, columns;
- we arrange lighting.
You can use any option, the main thing is harmony with the overall style.
Almost any design can be transformed and made more interesting by using plaster arches. At first glance, it may seem that making an arch from plasterboard is the lot of craftsmen.
But it is not so. The technology for making arches from plasterboard is quite simple, you just need to follow the sequence of work and apply a little diligence.
The shapes of plasterboard arches come in a wide variety, as do styles. They can be classic, radius, double, modern, ellipsoidal, etc. (see). Types of plasterboard arches are limited only by the imagination of the owner of the room.
The most popular now are modern plaster arches. They are often used for zoning rooms. For example, to highlight working area for cooking in the kitchen or playroom in the nursery.
How to take measurements
One more important stage During the installation of plasterboard arches, measurements are taken. It depends on them:
- The amount of materials needed to implement the idea.
- How many Money will be needed to purchase raw materials for installing a plasterboard arch in the opening between rooms in a house or apartment.
- How correct the shape will be of the structure.
- Which frame to install under a plasterboard arch for maximum stability.
Measurements for installing a plasterboard arch are carried out as follows:
- First, the dimensions of the length and width of the vertical frame are determined.
- The next step is to measure the upper part of the arched opening.
- If the design is non-standard, then it is better to carry out the measurements step by step, carefully measuring each segment in which the arch will be located in the future.
Dimensions of arches depending on the width of doorways
Making an arch
How to make arches from plasterboard: instructions for use (see).
So:
- In order for the arch to be level, you need to take care of good lighting in the room.
- Wear gloves and safety glasses.
- Use a screwdriver to tighten the screws. The length of the screws should be 2–2.5 times thicker than the drywall.
- The walls that will be hidden by the panels must be treated with waterproofing and antifungal primers.
- Drywall arches in the hallway or where air humidity often rises should be made of waterproof plasterboard.
Installation of a metal frame for a plasterboard arch
So:
- We close up the surface of the vault. We measure its length with a tape measure and cut off a strip from the profile of exactly the same size, and then cut off the shelves with metal scissors, as shown in the photo.
The maximum length of segments can be up to 12 cm. We bend the profile into an arc.
Installation of a wooden frame for a plasterboard arch
If you decide to create a wooden frame for drywall, you need to prepare:
- plywood;
- wooden beams;
- screws or self-tapping screws.
Step by step steps:
- First you need to draw a sketch of the future arch on plywood.
- Then beams are fixed on plywood around the perimeter. This is done using screws or by placing the material on strong glue.
- After this, the prepared frame should be mounted on the wall; this can be done using long screws (15 centimeters).
- The distance between the screws should be no more than ten centimeters.
We fasten the arch
- We begin to attach it to one of the elements from the inside. We fasten with self-tapping screws from the drywall side. The connecting screw passes through the thickness of the slab and both profile flanges.
It is important! If it didn’t work out to pierce two shelves, repeat the connection. This stage is extremely important and can affect the efficiency of the entire work.
The great popularity of plasterboard arches (GKL) is explained by its properties. The article describes the types of arches, materials and tools used during installation. Preparatory operations are described. The main attention is paid to the question of how to make arches from plasterboard with your own hands, with video material attached. Installation tips are provided.
Drywall (gypsum plasterboard) – sheet composite material, consisting of two layers of cardboard and a layer of gypsum with fillers between them. The main advantages of the material, which determine its widespread use:
- possibility of bending;
- ease of processing;
- environmental friendliness, fire safety;
- low price.
Types of arches
Among the variety of arches we can highlight:
- classic arches with a constant radius - variants of a circular arc.
- elliptical arches - the arc of an ellipse.
- arch-portal and arch-romance – rectangular arches and etc.
The most popular are the first two types. Options of complex shapes are possible, it all depends on your imagination. Arches are arranged in interior openings as an alternative to interior doors (most often) or in wall niches.
Materials and tools
For the installation of arches, two types of gypsum boards are used - ceiling and arched. The second one is more expensive, but more convenient to use.
Tool:
- roulette;
- pencil;
- construction knife or jigsaw (preferably) - for cutting sheets;
- metal scissors – profile processing;
- screwdriver;
- perforator;
Supporting materials:
- Profile – special arched (for example PN 28/27), can be ceiling or guide;
- dowels 6×45 mm;
- self-tapping screws;
- serpyanka, putty “uniflot”, “fugenfüller”;
- a sheet of cardboard - as a future template (optional).
Everything about mineral wool - characteristics and application.
Preparation of material (cutting and bending)
The arch has three elements:
- 2 identical side walls;
- arc element - a rectangular strip that bends lengthwise.
Side sheet cutout defines arch profile. A profile with a constant radius can be easily made with a homemade compass. This is a lace of the required length with a fixed center (for example, a screwed-in screw) and a pencil on the other side. An ellipse profile can be made using any flexible strip. If you fix the ends along the width of the arch, then by changing the length of the slats you can obtain the required profile (ellipse arc). It is enough just to outline the contour of the slats with a pencil.
The sheets are cut using a jigsaw. The knife requires more effort and time, especially for a curved surface; the edges will have to be modified. Plasterboard thickness for installation:
- 6-10 mm– bendable sheet;
- 10-12 mm- side parts.
GCR bending
This is the most painstaking and responsible operation that can be performed in two ways:
- Dry bend– gradual bending of the sheet as it is attached to the profile. Recommended for beginners.
- Wet bend– wetting inner surface profile and giving the desired shape on the template. Before wetting, the sheet is perforated with a needle roller in two directions. Moisturizing is done with a spray bottle or sponge. The leaf gradually, under its weight, takes on the shape of a template. Drying time is at least 12 hours.
In both cases, it is necessary to keep in mind the thickness of the drywall, which affects the bending radius:
Installing a gypsum board arch with your own hands
Installation of arches various types and has forms general principles. As an example, the sequence of installing the arch in interior opening. Actions at any stage may vary somewhat at the discretion of the performer. The installation site must be prepared: wallpaper, paint, etc. must be removed.
- Determine the main dimensions of the arch using a tape measure.
- Draw the outline lines of the arch wall on the sheet. Draw a cut line using a compass or a flexible ruler.
- Cut out the side wall with a jigsaw or knife. Cut the second part according to the first (sample).
- Cut the guide profile with metal scissors: 2 pieces for the width of the opening and 4 pieces for the height of the arch.
- The frame is attached to dowels with self-tapping screws; the distance from the edge of the wall should correspond to the thickness of the plasterboard. Holes are drilled using a hammer drill - depth 5-7 cm, pitch 40 cm.
- Fasten the cut sheets to the frame with plasterboard/metal screws, pitch 10-15 mm. Sink the screw heads into the drywall.
- Measure the length of the circle (ellipse) with a tape measure and cut off the guide profile. It should be slightly shorter than the measurement, taking into account the installed side profiles.
- To bend the U-shaped profile, make slots on the edges in increments of 1.5-5 cm.
- Bend the profile and attach it to the plasterboard walls from the inside.
- Cut a strip of drywall according to the measured length of the cutout and the width of the arch (opening).
- Bend the strip dry (transverse slits) or wet. As a template for wet method you can use any suitable material, it should have the shape of an arch. For example, fragments (see picture) after cutting out the side walls or the walls themselves, then this must be done before installing them (the order of this instruction changes slightly). If the radius is large, you can simply install the strip by sequentially screwing it to the profile.
- After drying (about half a day), attach the strip to the guides.
The arch is ready. All that remains is to putty it; before that, you can paste over the joints and corners with sickle tape. After final finishing Place a plastic corner on the edges of the room (optional).
Detailed guide to installing plastic windows.
Conclusion
Despite the variety of types of arches, the general installation order does not change; only small deviations in the sequence, the use of templates, etc. are possible.
When using the dry method with cuts, the surface of the arch takes on a broken appearance (not smooth, as with other methods). This makes the design more original. The number of breaks depends on the pitch of the cuts.
With the wet method, it is necessary to completely dry the plasterboard.
Do not forget about the permissible radius of curvature of the arch.
You can watch a film about the installation of arches here:
The doorway will look more aesthetically pleasing if you design it in the form of a semicircular arch. You can make it from plasterboard yourself, without resorting to the services of professional builders.
Arch markings
A significant disadvantage of this design is the reduction in the size of the doorway. To see whether the arch will fit well into a specific doorway, it is better to first cut a blank from paper or cardboard and secure it above the door. If the opening height is less than 2.5 m, it may be necessary to reduce the bend of the arch or make small bends only at the corners of the arch.
Installation of an arch with a small bending radius
To draw the upper part of the arch on the workpiece, we will use compass. You can make it from available materials: a self-tapping screw or an awl fixed in the center of a circle, thread and a pencil. By evenly pulling the thread, we draw the required arc. The longer the thread, the flatter the arch will be.
Constructing a circle
You can also make a compass from a scrap metal profile.
Drywall cutting
1. First, cut through the first layer of cardboard and the gypsum core. To do this, apply a ruler to the intended line and draw along it several times. sharp knife or metal file.
Cutting through the first two layers
2. To finally break the gypsum core, place the drywall on its edge and lightly tap the cut area. If the part being cut has a small width, you can break the plaster by simply pressing on the edge of the sheet.
Cutting the second layer
4. To remove roughness along the edge of the cut, it is processed sandpaper or rasp.
Important! For perfect joining of sheets along the edges of the drywall, use a sharp knife to remove 45° chamfer.
Chamfering
Cutting blanks for the upper arch of the arch
It is most convenient to work with jigsaw or a special plane for drywall. Using them you can cut out any shapes from drywall. Moreover, with this method, gypsum practically does not generate dust, and the resulting edges require almost no additional processing.
Cutting with a jigsaw
You can trim curly edges using drywall knife saw-shaped or metal files with fine teeth. However, this will require some skill. A knife or file is drawn along the intended line so that the blade penetrates as deeply as possible into the sheet. In this case, the tool must go strictly perpendicular to the surface. Next, tap the cut area with a hammer and, if necessary, run the knife over it several more times.
Cutting with a drywall saw
Then it cuts through reverse side of the sheet, on which traces of pressure from the knife are already visible. Then the excess pieces are cut off and the edges of the sheet are trimmed with sandpaper. If the cut line is large enough, it is better to cut the sheet inside the outline into segments.
For getting holes(for example, to install lamps or sockets), you can use an electric drill with a crown-shaped attachment.
Drill bit
Cutting and bending metal guides
Aluminum guides are cut using conventional metal scissors. To attach the upper part of the arch you will need a special arched profile. You can buy it in a store or make it yourself.
To bend the profile, they are made on it cuts. The distance between them depends on the bending radius - the larger it is, the more often notches should be made. For bending, it is better to choose an L-shaped profile - it will be much easier to work with it, and the cuts will have to be made only on one side.
Profile bending
Drywall bending
For arch construction you can purchase arched plasterboard. It is more plastic and, since its thickness is less than ordinary sheets, it bends easily. However, buying a whole sheet is quite expensive. Some stores sell this material not in sheets, but in pieces, which is very convenient. If it is not possible to purchase a small piece, you can also bend a regular sheet of drywall.
Thin arched drywall bends easily, but costs more
To do this, you can use two methods: wet and dry. In the first case, in order for moisture to better penetrate deep into the sheet, the plasterboard blank should be rolled before bending. needle roller.
Before bending, the workpiece is rolled with a needle roller
Next the sheet is evenly moistened with water and placed on a curved surface that follows the shape of the arch, pressing down with a weight. A device for drying the workpiece can be cut from the remains of drywall or plywood.
Wet bending
Important! With any bending method, it should be taken into account that drywall bends well only along the length of the sheet.
At dry bending cuts are made along the entire length of the fold. Moreover, the larger the bending radius, the more often such notches should be applied. This can be done quickly with a grinder, however, since this creates a lot of gypsum dust, it is better to do the work outside.
Dry bending of plasterboard
Frame installation
Mounted at the top of the doorway two curved profiles. If necessary, they are also connected to each other by jumpers.
Fastening the upper part of the profile
Fastening the profile with jumpers
The profile sections are fastened together with self-tapping screws
Fastening drywall
Drywall installation
Fastening the corners
Important! To prevent the screws from protruding above the surface, they should be recessed into the sheet a couple of millimeters. Subsequently, the holes from them are covered with putty.
The finished structure is plastered with a wide spatula first starting, and then finishing putty. The solution is applied to inner side arches, and then, after it has completely dried, onto the side walls. At the joints of drywall, to protect the solution from cracking, it is attached with putty. painting mesh.
After installation is completed, the arch is covered with putty
Attaching the painting mesh
Related video: DIY plasterboard arch
Do-it-yourself plasterboard arch: step-by-step instructions
Once upon a time, only a professional could make an arch. This was before the advent of drywall. Now even a beginner can make an arch from plasterboard. You don’t need a special tool for this, the technology itself is simple and straightforward - just follow our instructions.
Where to begin
The most common arches simple shapes- parts of a circle or oval. They are best suited for most traditional interior styles, where correct forms and symmetry. In addition, they are easiest to make with your own hands.
1. Classic round arch. 2. Modern. 3. Romance. 4. Ellipse. 5. Trapezoid. 6. Half-arch
But first you need to decide whether the height of the arch will be sufficient. And if for a niche in the wall the dimensions do not play a special role, then for the passage between rooms the ratio of the width of the arch and the distance from the floor to the point where the arch meets the wall of the opening matters a lot.
The wider the opening in which the arch is formed, the larger the bending radius will be required so that the shape of the arch is proportionate
Usually they are guided by the simple ratio of a standard interior door - 80–100 cm width by 200 cm height. That is, a rectangle of this size must be inscribed in a “pure form” in the plane of the opening, taking into account the arch. Following this rule, you can determine that the width of the opening is:
- 100 cm corresponds to the height of the lower points of the arch about two meters;
- 200 cm - about 180 cm;
- 300 cm - about 160 cm.
It follows from this that if an arch is made where the standard one stood interior door, then the height of the opening will have to be increased.
The easiest way is to arrange an arch in a new place during redevelopment, when they are re-installing interior partitions. And here we must remember the recommended distance from the top point of the arch to the ceiling - usually it is 40–60 cm. Often the height of the ceilings does not allow the arch to be “fitted” in accordance with this rule, and this point is raised a little higher. But even in this case, you should not reduce the clearance to a ceiling level of less than 30 cm.
Once the approximate values for the points of connection with the opening and for the height of the arch have been established, the arch in the opening can be modeled using available means and make sure that it corresponds to the general design.
It is convenient to use a special plastic corner for arches, which will ultimately be used when finishing the opening
One of simple ways modeling is the use of a long strip of flexible material as a pattern, for example, plastic skirting board with hard edges. The plinth is applied with its edges at the lower points of the arched opening, bent to the height of the arch, and, if necessary, the shape of the arch is changed, adjusting the degree of bending. Mark the points at which the arch meets the opening and place corresponding marks on the plinth.
Plasterboard blanks
For the walls of the arch, you need to cut out two rectangles from plasterboard. The dimensions of the workpiece are the width of the opening and the distance from the junction point of the arch in the opening to the ceiling of the opening itself (or to the ceiling for new partitions).
Then, on one of the blanks, using a plinth, the shape of the arch is modeled. To do this, align one of the marks on the plinth with the corner of the workpiece and bend it until the second mark is aligned in the corner of the workpiece opposite in width. Draw an arc on the workpiece with a pencil and cut out the first wall. And it will serve as a template for cutting out the second wall.
To obtain a sector along the radius, it is better to use an awl, a nail and a pencil tied with thread or rope. The length of the thread from the pencil to the nail will determine the radius of the sector.
L - width of the opening, H - height of the arch, R - radius of the sector, D - supply of material equal to the thickness of the finishing of the ends of the opening
If an ellipse is needed, then two nails are fixed on the arch blank along the long side, departing the same distance from both sides by about 10–15 cm. A thread is tied to the nails so that it hangs freely, and when pulled along the edge of the sheet, it reaches its edge . The pencil is wound by the thread and the shape of the arch is outlined.
For the vault of the arch, you can use a strip of ceiling plasterboard (it is thinner, only 9.5 mm), but the remainder of a standard sheet is also suitable, since with a small width of the strip it is not difficult to give it the required shape. The size of the blank for the vault is equal in length to the distance between the marks on the plinth, and in width - the thickness of the wall in the opening. The narrow sides of the workpiece are cut at the ends along one side of the corner so that the arch fits more tightly at the ends of the walls of the opening.
Formation of the arch frame
The supporting frame for the walls is usually made of a metal rack profile. Depending on the materials of the partition and its thickness, the width of the profile may vary.
So, if the arch is mounted in an opening where the walls are made of gypsum plasterboard, then they use the same CW rack profiles that are in the supporting structure. In this case, the profiles are secured in the opening with metal screws.
For walls made of bricks, building blocks (gas or foam concrete, gypsum), monolithic concrete The width of the rack profile is selected individually. It is often easier to use a double frame (one for each wall of the arch) from a narrow CW profile with a back of 50 mm than to select a wide profile for a single frame. Dowels are used for fastening to the wall, and a different type of fastener is selected for each material. If the frame is mounted from a narrow profile, the holes for the dowel are drilled at an angle to prevent the edge of the opening from crumbling.
For side racks, the profiles must have a length equal to the distance from the ceiling of the opening to the points of connection with the arch. Since the arch “fits” in the opening to the partition at an angle of less than 90°, the lower corners of the profile are trimmed so that they do not protrude beyond the edge of the walls of the arch.
If the frame is mounted in a gypsum board partition, then you can clearly see how it needs to be secured so that the arch is flush with the wall surface.
For partitions made of other materials, when attaching the frame, you need to step back from the edge of the wall at a distance equal to the thickness of the plasterboard plus the thickness of the finish (which is at least 1–2 mm per layer of putty for wallpapering or painting).
If the wall has a layer decorative plaster or lined wall panels, then the fastening of the frame should go to the main material of the wall so that the walls of the arch are in the same plane with the surface of the partition itself, and not its decorative finishing. This rule is followed on each side of the arch.
Arch installation
The walls of the arch are fastened with self-tapping screws with a distance between fastening points of 15 to 25 cm, but not less than three points on each side. The distance from the corner to each extreme fastening point should be within 5–10 cm, and the fastening line should be 15–20 mm from the edge of the arch wall.
If the arch has built-in lighting, then the wires should be laid in advance, leaving leads or loops at least 15 cm long
After both walls are secured, two strips of an arched profile are screwed to them from the inside through drywall to secure the vault. If there is no arched profile, then it is made from a CD profile, symmetrically cutting wedges on the sides at a distance of 4–5 cm from each other.
To bend a strip of workpiece into an arc, it is moistened with a sponge on both sides before installation. Then they roll it on one side with a needle roller (another way is to prick it with an awl over the entire surface by 1/3 of the sheet thickness) and wet it again only along the perforated side. Place it on the floor at an angle to it and the wall. When the workpiece begins to bend under its own weight, it is screwed into place to the arched profiles.
Finishing work
The final stage begins when the vault is dry:
- the surface of the drywall is primed;
- seams and joints with the wall are reinforced with serpyanka, and the ribs of the vault are reinforced with a plastic perforated corner;
- putty, rubbing the attachment points, seams and joints;
- “bring out” the corners of the ribs;
- dried and polished.
The arch is ready. You can start decorating.
Do-it-yourself plasterboard arch: step-by-step instructions
Using plasterboard, you can make vaults of any configuration - oval, semicircular, arched, trapezoidal, lancet. Interior arches can visually expand the space and divide it into separate functional areas, as well as give the living space a designer personality. Any average person would be able to install a plasterboard arch with their own hands if they wanted to. In order to resolve all the questions that may arise during work, below are detailed instructions.
Preparation of material and tools
We begin work by preparing tools and materials. You will need:
We will prepare the following tools:
- level;
- tape measure, marker or pencil;
- screwdriver or drill;
- jigsaw;
- construction knife and metal scissors.
We draw a sketch and cut the blanks
We begin work on making an arch with our own hands from plasterboard by drawing a sketch and preparing blanks:
1. We measure the existing opening, from the top point to the place where the arch will end.
2. From gypsum board we cut out two rectangular elements corresponding to our previous measurements.
Advice: Cutting the material is very simple; to do this, you need to apply markings using a simple pencil or a marker, cut through the markings with a stationery knife with strong pressure upper layer material, then slightly break the sheet along the cut, connect it, turn it over and reverse side cut it completely.
3. On the cut-out workpiece we find the center and, stepping back from the bottom edge of about 1 cm, screw in a self-tapping screw, tie a fishing line or cord with a loop at the end to the self-tapping screw, insert a pencil into the loop, determine the required radius of curvature, tighten the fishing line and draw a semicircle with a pencil.
4. Using a jigsaw, we clearly cut out the arch arch blank along the drawn line. Then we combine the resulting blank with the second sheet, draw markings on it with a pencil and cut out a semicircle.
Arch installation
After preparing the blanks, you can proceed directly to installing the arch with your own hands from plasterboard:
Step 1. According to the dimensions of the prepared workpiece, we cut the required amount of U-shaped profile 60*27. You should end up with 4 vertical and 2 horizontal elements equal in height and width to our workpiece.
Step 3. We attach both plasterboard blanks to the prepared frame. For more reliable fastening, we keep the interval between the screws at 15 cm, screw the screws to the surface without pressing them into the base, otherwise we will have to fill the depressions with putty, which will add unnecessary work.
Important: To install gypsum boards with a thickness of 12.5 mm, craftsmen recommend using wood screws measuring 3.5 * 35, for more thin sheets For gypsum boards, you can use smaller self-tapping screws.
Step 4. To impart rigidity to the entire structure and secure the lower part of the arch, a curved profile 28*27 must be installed along the edges of the fixed sheets. This is done like this: carefully measure the arch and cut off the required section of the profile using metal scissors, then make cuts on the side edges of the profile every 10 cm and give it a bend in accordance with the contour of the arch. then we attach its edges to the frame and screw it to the walls of the gypsum board every 10 cm.
Step 5. We fasten the lower part of the arch. For this purpose, we will need a curved strip of drywall in order to bend the gypsum board, as we need to do the following: measure the length and width of the arch, cut out the appropriate taken sizes strip of gypsum plasterboard, mark vertical lines with a pencil every 10 cm, it is very important that the markings are perfectly even, and along the marked lines with a stationery knife we cut through the paper layer of gypsum board.
Next, we combine the incised strip, with the cuts upward, with the edge of the arch, moving towards the opposite edge, we give the gypsum board the desired bend. Then we fasten it in the middle with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles and, moving from the center to the edges, secure the entire remaining strip with self-tapping screws. The interval between fastenings is maintained at 10 cm. Carefully cut off the protruding edges with a stationery knife.
In principle, at this point, assembling a do-it-yourself arch from plasterboard can be considered complete; the question remains only about its finishing, but this topic is too broad and we will talk about it in the next publication.
Video on the topic “DIY plasterboard arch”:
Drywall arches - do-it-yourself replacement of standard rectangular doors with an original design
By removing swing doors, owners increase the usable area. Installing a plasterboard arch instead is the simplest and most affordable option.
Drywall arches are created in a variety of shapes, differing mainly in the upper part. Many styles have been developed - from the simplest to the complex. We will focus on those that even people without special skills can do. Having mastered the basics of creating arched openings, you can move on to more sophisticated designs.
One of the popular styles is classic with a strict top shape. This is a semicircle with a radius equal to half the width of the doorway. It looks good in an apartment of sufficient height, when the doorway is not lower than 2.5 m. Suitable for any interior, but the best use is the entrance to the kitchen or a long corridor.
The portal is close to the classical style, but has a strict rectangular shape along its entire height. The option is ideal for wooden houses and apartments with clear horizontal and vertical lines. Right angles in this design look elegant. Often they add additional originality with wooden decorative elements with carvings.
The style of the classic semicircular arch in the elliptical one is practically preserved. Its arch is made of different heights. Formula: the height of the arch is equal to half the width, does not apply. Ideal for apartments with low ceilings.
An even more simplified vault is characteristic of the romantic style. The craftsmen gave it the name “with rounded corners”. The shape allows you to create structures that are large and relatively low. Ideal for decorating a passage to a balcony connected to a room.
The top of the modern style arch has a small radius of curvature and a sharp transition at the junction with the vertical parts. Looks good in rooms with a simple design. Often installed instead of a door on a balcony or in an office.
The trapezoidal shape attracts supporters of non-standard design. The asymmetrical interior arch also emphasizes the originality of the owners’ taste. A popular form of recent times is the semi-arch. One side is semicircular, the other remains straight. Fits into modern styles of minimalism, hi-tech, art decor.
The shape and design must be consistent with the overall design. The width of the arch and the height of the room are taken into account. Before making the arch, we determine the parameters, especially those related to the radius of curvature. Classic is suitable for apartments with ceilings of three meters or more. For arches in place of standard doorways, rounded corners are recommended. It is better to decorate a wide opening in Art Nouveau style.
Tip: to visually assess how the door arch will fit into the interior, we make a template and apply it to the doorway.
We start with a project that we draw to scale. We outline the location and type of the arch. We indicate the dimensions and all distinctive features. It’s even better to make a template that will help for further work, especially for a novice master.
The work will require tools: a hammer drill with a drill, a screwdriver or drill, a jigsaw, a drywall knife, and a hammer. For measurements you will need a tape measure and a level. We fasten everything with self-tapping screws, if the opening is brick - with dowels. We purchase UD and CD profiles from materials. For a wooden frame you will need pieces of timber. We buy simple plasterboard for ordinary rooms, and moisture-resistant one for places with high humidity.
Next we prepare the doorway: dismantle the door leaf and frame. Depending on the intended size, you may have to expand the space. There is no need to plaster the sides: everything will be covered with sheets of drywall. We remove the peeling plaster and level the side parts. We do not achieve a perfectly vertical state: it is important that the sidewalls are more or less even for reliable fastening of the profile slats.
If we plan lighting, we install the wiring in advance. On uneven walls, the depth of the arch is determined by its greatest thickness. We take all measurements in several places to avoid mistakes. An arched vault takes up to 15 cm, and the distance to the ceiling is required to be at least 20. Do not forget about this when calculating and marking the arch.
We cut two pieces of metal profile according to the width of the arch. Four more will be needed for the sides. Their length is equal to the height minus the thickness of the profile rail. To install on a concrete or brick wall, we make holes with a puncher, install dowels, and screw the profiles with self-tapping screws. To attach to wooden walls, we do without dowels and use self-tapping screws 50 mm long.
We retreat from the plane of the wall to a distance equal to the thickness of the drywall. For plaster, add another 2 mm. After 50 cm, we install reinforcing crossbars that reach from below to the place where the upper arc-shaped piece of drywall will join the sidewalls. To attach the arcuate element, you will need to install additional profiles, but we will not install them at this stage. We now have a base to which we will attach the casing.
For some reason, many people have particular difficulty with the arched part. You can read many instructions on how to make it with calculations and formulas. Maybe math lovers use them, but in practice everything turns out much simpler; you don’t need to remember the school course.
We take a piece of plasterboard, equal in width to the doorway, from which we will cut an arc. You will need a straight, preferably a wooden strip, at one end of which we drive a nail. Find the middle on the sheet and draw a line. For a classic arch, we also drive a nail from the second end of the rail at a length from the first, equal to half the width of the arch.
We step back along the center line from the top of the sheet so that the top nail is at its edge, and press the bottom nail into the drywall. We came up with a kind of compass. We take the top of the plank and draw a semicircle, leaving a mark from the top nail. We have outlined the dimensions of the top part of the classic arch. If you need an oval one, move the lower point along the axis downwards, as much as you want to reduce the height, and draw a cutting line.
We cut the arc along the intended contour. We do this using a drywall or metal saw. You can use a jigsaw, but it creates a lot of dust. We smooth out any uneven cut that may occur with sandpaper, ensuring that the curve comes out in an ideal shape.
We carry out further actions in the following sequence:
- 1. Use self-tapping screws to attach a rectangle with a cut out arc to the frame. Temporarily screw the same one on the opposite side.
- 2. Take a square, place it on an unmarked piece of paper and use a pencil to mark the points that correspond to the cut out arc. We make them larger so that we can draw the most accurate curve possible from them.
- 3. Remove a piece of sheet and draw a line at the points. We cut off the excess and install the second arc in its permanent place.
A copy of the first arc should not be made: asymmetry is possible, so installing a second sheet with an absolute coincidence of the contours is problematic.
We take a smoothing iron so that its width is enough for two sheets, and align them. Then we install profiles between them. They need to be bent. We make cuts in the sides with scissors, bend them, and adjust them to fit. We fasten it to the drywall with self-tapping screws, holding the strip with a block so as not to injure your fingers. We set the back of the profile rail at the same level with the edge of the arcuate element.
Having attached both strips, we install jumpers between them. We cut the profile into pieces with a length that is 1 cm less than the depth of the arch. In the places where the jumpers are attached to the installed profile, we cut out the sidewalls from the inside and install the prepared fragments. The jumpers provide the necessary rigidity.
Next, we attach the sidewalls on both sides. The arc also needs to be covered with plasterboard. To do this you will have to bend it. This may seem impossible to the ignorant, because they are convinced that standard gypsum board is both fragile and rigid - it does not want to bend and breaks. We'll talk about how to give it the desired bend ahead.
For surfaces with curved lines, thin drywall is available. You can buy a sheet and install the required length. But the logic kicks in: why buy a whole one if you only need a small piece, which is full of purchased sheets of standard thickness? In general, everything is correct: a thick piece of paper can also be bent.
Usually a simple and fast method is used. Place the piece cut to size on a flat surface, face up. Take a square and draw lines 10 cm across with a pencil. We make cuts along them, approximately ⅔ of the thickness. The angle is not required, but desirable: a parallel bend will be of better quality. For arches with large bends, this method is most suitable.
We turn the workpiece over with the cuts facing up and apply it to the arch. We fix the upper part with self-tapping screws. From the center we gradually move towards the end. We screw in the screws every 10 cm on both sides. Little effort is required, the sequence is mirror-image. We do everything gradually, slowly, then the gypsum board will bend almost perfectly.
For those who do not like or do not know how to plaster, another method is recommended. After all, more than one layer of plaster will have to be applied to drywall bent using the previous method. A very steep bend using the proposed method, which is called wet, is difficult to obtain, but possible. Its advantages are that the bent fragment remains intact; there is no need to mask the damage with plaster: a regular finishing layer is applied.
You'll have to buy a roller with needles and make a template for bending. No special skills are required, but the process is lengthy and technological breaks must be observed. We do it as follows:
- 1. Cut out semicircle templates from fairly hard material. We install them vertically and fasten them together.
- 2. Lay a sheet of drywall of the required size on a plane and roll it with a roller. Wet it with water, but not too much, so that it seems slightly damp.
- 3. After 10 minutes of exposure, place the workpiece on the template - the unrolled side is below. The workpiece itself begins to sag, we carefully help without applying excessive force.
- 4. We wait about half an hour until moisture is felt to the touch. There is no need to wait any longer, it may dry out and the fragility will return.
A frame covered with plasterboard is a semi-finished product; it would have been better not to start without a high-quality finish at the finish. Many people don’t like this stage - it’s better to cut, drill, and fasten than to deal with mortar and sandpaper. Yes, the work is not easy, but necessary, since we decided to do everything with our own hands.
First, apply the primer and let it dry. Those who ignore this stage, wanting to save money and time, are wrong. It is the primer layer that allows the plaster to reliably adhere to the surface and not be torn away over time. We use acrylic putty, but it is better to apply a special one for drywall joints on the seams. It is more durable and does not crack later.
We seal joints, possible defects on drywall and screw heads. We try not to apply a lot of putty, otherwise we will have to remove it later. We pass with a spatula, taking away the excess. To hide unevenness, add strength, and prevent cracking, we cover the joints with fiberglass mesh. We apply pieces of the required length onto fresh putty. Make sure there are no folds. If you can’t align it, it’s better to tear it off and try again.
We cover the bend of the arch with mesh. There will definitely be folds here. To eliminate them, we cut the mesh in these places and glue it. Immediately apply the second layer over the mesh. We wait until it dries: it will become completely white. We smooth the surfaces with sandpaper. Do not overdo it: the mesh should not be exposed. If this happens in some places, it is undesirable, but not scary.
Clean off any dust and apply the next layer over the entire surface. Again, wait until it dries and sand, but with finer-grain paper. Apply the finishing coat to a thoroughly cleaned surface. We wait long enough for the putty to dry well. The next day we start sanding using the finest sandpaper.
Sometimes painting an arch is enough to give it a finished and elegant look. But many want to achieve originality using the following techniques:
- sheathed with wood or plastic;
- cover with wallpaper, veneer;
- we use artificial stone finishing;
- decorate with mirrors, mosaics;
- decorate with stucco molding, columns;
- we arrange lighting.
You can use any option, the main thing is harmony with the overall style.
Induction heating: do it yourself
