Everything can be done by our Russian Kulibins, so a home-made ice drill is not a problem for us, if the task were set.
To begin with, let's decide what manufacturing process we have to do, because each thing can be:
- make from scratch;
- finalize;
- retool.
Today's editorial task obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and refining existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.
What are we not talking about?
In this material, you will not read about the conversion of manual ice drills to electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual manufacturing here, but there is a connection of three parts: an auger, an adapter and a drill together.
Manufacturing from scratch
It is even scary to begin to describe this complex process. Without locksmith, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let's start.
To describe the manufacturing process, we have chosen several models:
- shoulder blade
- annular;
- framework;
- screw.
They have one thing in common - the upper part with handles, or a brace. So let's try to make it first.
Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:
- We select a pipe of a suitable diameter.
- On the ground or floor, we draw the bends of our rotation.
- Pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with corks so that it does not spill out. Bending without sand can damage the metal.
- We bend the pipe using gas burner or blowtorch.
- We weld a bracket to the bottom of the brace for connection with the auger.
- We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul storm.
- We grind and paint the workpiece.
- We buy in the store repair kit for the ice drill "Tonar".
- We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.
The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - the manufacture of the lower part of the mechanism.
shoulder blade
This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting piece cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the down tube. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.
Although such a drill can make a hole in the ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of shortcomings:
- dulls quickly;
- the absence of an auger makes it often necessary to scoop out sludge;
- slowly cuts ice;
- difficult to rotate.
Annular
At the base of such a drill is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. A strip of steel is twisted into a spiral and fixed pointwise to the frame. It appears to be a fully functional model.
Framework
This do-it-yourself ice screw is also easy to manufacture. Let's describe this process in detail:
- We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
- In the lower part, steel bars are welded to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
- At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis from the pipe. You should get two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately equal to eighty degrees.
- We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives with bolts and nuts.
- We adjust the angles of attack of the knives with the help of additional linings made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.
Sludge from the holes made by an ice drill of this design will also have to be scooped out with a scoop.
Auger
This one cannot be completely done at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. The main detail of such a mechanism is the base for knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.
Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:
- We weld a part to the pipe from above for connection with a brace.
- From below we also attach for welding seat for knives.
- From sheet metal cut circles.
- We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
- Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
- We grind and paint the resulting product.
- We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
- We screw the knives.
Motorization refinement
In this part of our story, we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.
An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Shtil, Hugsvarna or Chinese comrades, also require the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship no such modification is required.
Converting a trimmer to an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding bar. The adapter for connecting such a mechanism to the screw is the easiest to make.
Each of the chainsaw or trimmer models requires its own refinement, so there is no one universal prescription manufacturing. Best to find experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together with him make a decision and draw a diagram of the manufacture of the desired adapter.
No less important for working on winter fishing gearbox for ice drill. With its help, the parameters of the rotation of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.
If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some kind of operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.
An important task is right choice an auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.
It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and ready product will be used for a long time. It is important to make sure finished tool was easy to repair and maintain, parts were available and interchangeable.
To create a well or conduct another type earthworks not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists can be used. With a small scale and a sufficient amount of time, simpler equipment can be used.
One of these tools is an earthen drill - a device that appears in many variations and varieties. It is most in demand in garden and summer cottage work, it is also used in various industries.
1 Design and purpose of the drill
An earthmoving drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the ground (to be more precise, the upper layers of it are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), a handle and a drive. At the bottom of the rod is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of, or cutters.
All drills can be conditionally divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with engines.
2 Types of drills
Classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is performed into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.
Petrol drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline land drill (aka a motor drill) is the best option for domestic use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily opens soil layers up to 2-3 meters deep, in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the stem extension.
In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or earth with high content mountain patches.
The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transferred to the rock breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light ones - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel is usually gasoline mixed with oil 92.
The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:
- Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4-stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke ones;
- Handle for holding;
- Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
- Screws are usually used as a food-destroying element.
The cost of devices for domestic use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When buying, first of all, you should pay attention to manufacturers such as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.
Also exists a large number of firms where possible. In general, rent is great option if you only need the device for a few days. To date, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1,000 rubles per day, plus you will need to make a deposit of 5-10 thousand.
Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but also common and well-known.
The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is an electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and disadvantages to the device.
The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, an electric drive is practically inaudible.
The disadvantages are the following: electric motors they have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.
For domestic use, this is not particularly important, but in the case professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering that the device must be connected to the network, which somewhat narrows its portability, since any batteries have an unpleasant feature to sit down at the most inopportune moment..
The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent - from 1000 rubles per day.
Hydraulic drills - a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electrical devices- reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass problematic soil layers.
In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes the hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.
But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible shaft speed control, which allows you to choose optimal mode drilling on different layers of soil.
The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the "tenderness" of the drive. It is always necessary to keep it clean, as mechanical impurities inside the drive significantly reduce the service life of the device.
The hydraulic earthen drill, in comparison with analogs, differs in several times higher cost. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case one hour of time is paid. Such a rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.
2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?
If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earthen drill with your own hands.
To create homemade drill the following tools are needed:
- Welding machine;
- Bulgarian (with circles for metal);
- Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.
It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:
- For the stem - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
- For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
- For a cutter - a disk from a circular file, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
- For the "needle" (guide element) - a drill for metal with a diameter of 15 mm.
A homemade hand drill for earthworks is made as follows:
- We make cutters (blades) of the drill. If you take a disk from a circular for this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
- To make a cutter from such a disc, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades that the disc was originally equipped with. At first, it is not necessary to sharpen the edges of the cutters, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - sharpness is given after all connections are completed.
- In the case of using ordinary metal, make an approximate marking on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which a hand drill for earthworks will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
- If there is no clear goal, then the best option "for all occasions" are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
- We prepare the fittings for the stem. It is not recommended to make a stem from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will fall apart.
- A drill for metal is welded to the end of the rod, it acts as a home-made guide element (the optimal drill length is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
- We weld milling cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
- We take a grinder, we put it on abrasive wheel for metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
- We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicularly to the upper part of the rod.
You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for earthworks with an extendable stem. To do this, a bolt is welded to the handle of the drill, and a nut is welded to the upper part of the rod. A piece is used as an extension metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and stem.
2.2 Design and use of the drill (video)
As a fisherman, you have learned what it's like to carry a Russian ice drill to a bite when it's -20°C outside. As the owner, you experienced the feelings of a man who dug 20 holes with a shovel while building a fence.
Domestic ice screws no longer attract you with their availability and unproductiveness. You come to a store selling small-scale mechanization in order to buy imported products.
The numbers on the price tag are significant, but the amount of work on your site does not correspond to them. Buy expensive tools seasonal work- an irrational decision. And you once bought a chainsaw, but it turned out to be not so necessary.
This chainsaw can be turned into a presentable motor drill. Thanks to your ingenuity, you get two tools and save a lot of money.
Characteristics of motor drills
If you doubt whether a homemade tool is worth the time and effort, then you don’t know how much small earthwork can be done in just an hour.
You can drill holes for poles, lanterns, for planting trees, build foundations, decorate the site in accordance with your aesthetic taste and needs, without resorting to renting special equipment and manual digging.
If an earth drill can handle some hard types of ground, it will also overcome ice more than a meter thick. On ice fishing, you will be catching fish, not drilling holes.
Criteria that a good do-it-yourself motor drill has:
- Power. For household needs, at least 3 horsepower is enough. Engine power of some modifications reaches 6 liters. with., but it all depends on the operating conditions.
You can operate a compact and light drill yourself, a more powerful one will require the presence of another operator.
- Engine capacity plays the same role as power. The more cubic centimeters of the fuel mixture the engine holds, the wider the possibilities of the motor tool.
The main guideline when choosing a volume is the nature of the soil. Alumina, sand, frozen soil require different engine characteristics.
- Functionality, drilling ability. Which auger will "pull" the engine? What is the diameter of the auger in millimeters? Is it easy to pick up an auger in the store, or are there difficulties with delivery?
Does the auger package include an extension, is it provided for specific model? By answering these questions, the user will be able to determine which tool he needs.
If you are interested in making a high-quality motor drill yourself, you need to add that the fruit of your efforts will not depend on talent at all. The process will require knowledge of turning and awareness of the principles of operation of simple mechanisms.
There is nothing difficult in making a motor drill with your own hands. If you understand gearboxes, you can bore the bushing of the desired diameter and build a high-quality mount.
Some abilities are indispensable here. Enlist the help of a familiar locksmith if you do not have practical skills in working with parts.
Chainsaw drill
Faced with a similar question for the first time, you may be surprised that a chainsaw is used not only for sawing wood. This is just one of the areas of application.
From a chainsaw you can get a chic gas cutter, a winch, a drill, a motor for a boat, a debarker, a device for dissolving logs on boards, etc.
Functionality provided design features chainsaws:
- unpretentious and reliable engine;
- sealed supply of the fuel mixture, the leakage of which is possible only if the chainsaw is turned over;
- the main thing is a power take-off system that is understandable to everyone. The output shaft of the chainsaw allows you to attach any nozzle.
Therefore, it is advisable to take a chainsaw as the basis for a new device. You don’t need to sacrifice it for the sake of a motor drill: you will disconnect the drilling nozzle, put the saw in and saw the logs.
The chainsaw engine is designed for long-term and intensive use, so you don’t have to worry about a breakdown or poor-quality performance of the task.
Theoretically, you can make a similar motor tool from a trimmer, lawn mower or grinder.
In practice, this is quite difficult due to the unusual design of the gearbox. Problems can arise due to insufficient power take-off or improper rotation of the auger.
Progress
So, how to make a motor drill with your own hands from a chainsaw?
Prepare the chainsaw. In most cases, the Soviet Stihl saw is used.
The auger should rotate at low speed. We need to find a way to reduce the speed so that the output is as much as necessary for safe work with a motor drill. Therefore, in order to make a motor drill with your own hands, you will need a gearbox.
V-belt and worm gearboxes perform the same role, despite the design differences. But in this case, worm gear is preferable.
Note: The efficiency of a worm gear is lower than that of a V-belt. The worm gearbox heats up faster, but it can be mounted directly on the base mechanism shaft. None couplings or mechanical gears are not needed.
The large gear of the V-belt gearbox must drive the auger!
You have dealt with the gearbox. But where to get it? Better to buy. On the net you can find stories about daredevils who, armed with a grinder, a screwdriver and a hammer, take apart old tools and remove gearboxes from them. Also an option, but unreliable and barbaric.
The chainsaw gearbox and motor must be fastened. At this stage, you may need the help of a locksmith. Usually a sleeve of the required diameter is bored - it serves as a connecting link.
Needs additional fasteners. You can't buy it anywhere. This handmade, for each device, the mount is selected individually.
Left pick up drill and knives to it. The drill and auger must match in the direction of rotation if the device is prefabricated. The most popular are Tonnar, Mora, Hitachi. The cost usually does not exceed 5000 r.
It is advisable to choose knives that are “native” and not made in China, especially if you use a motor drill for drilling holes in winter fishing.
Chinese ones burst, fall off, crack and cannot always be restored by welding.
With a homemade motor tool, you can drill a well with a maximum diameter of 150 mm. What, how and with what to drill, practice will best tell. Everyone chooses for himself best option operation.
Drill from a drill
It is much easier to build a similar device from a drill. High power is a mandatory characteristic of a drill. It is better to use a perforator.
The process will be less laborious, because there is no need to look for a gearbox - it is included in the design of the puncher. In addition, drills are among those devices that are aggregated with a drill without additional parts.
The safety clutch is installed between the output shaft and the shaft of the driven drill. It prevents additional load on the gearbox and auger, so it will not get stuck.
Rotary hammers are always equipped with a reverse, unlike a drill.
Making a motor drill with your own hands from a drill is a little more difficult:
- Need to pick up a drill with a power of at least 2 kW having a receiver. The brand and year of manufacture do not matter.
- Buy a worm gearbox (you can use it) with gear ratio 1:25 . You can purchase coaxial, but its use can be inconvenient.
- Auger - either buy or weld yourself.
- Fasten all the elements into a technologically complete design. You may need to ask for help at this point, although with the tools, materials, and logic, you can design your own fasteners.
The main thing is that it is durable, neat and does not interfere with the normal operation of the drill.
The advantage of a chainsaw over a drill is its autonomy. The drill is powered by a network, which narrows the scope of its application, and a “chainsaw” motor drill can be used in winter fishing conditions.
Drill Advantage: fuel mixture it is missing, oil too. The drill can work with sub-zero temperature and the chainsaw freezes. It takes time to warm it up.
Driller's memo
Creative inventors can mount a motor-, electric drill on a trolley. If the tool is often used on the farm, it will be convenient.
Before self-manufacturing motor tools, calculate the possible costs (reducer, drill, auger, knives).
Compare with the cost of a new auger. If the difference in favor of homemade is significant, it makes sense to make efforts to make it.
The gearbox is not in vain considered the most important element of a motor drill. The number of revolutions at the output must meet the requirements for comfortable operation.
The high RPM will keep the driller on their toes and the auger will continue to rotate even after the unit is turned off. Is it dangerous.
On the other hand, low speeds lead to a lengthening of the time period required to complete specific task. Arms and back will get tired.
Properly selected gearbox is the key to your “friendship” with a motor drill.
Do you know how to choose a two-row according to three criteria?
From you can learn interesting specifications tower crane KB-403.
An article has been prepared for you at the following address, allowing you to make a choice. manual cultivator for giving.
Do not lean on the tool while drilling. It can be hard to control it, especially when the auger hits a stone. Be prepared for this and keep your distance.
Failure to comply with safety precautions threatens with the same consequences, regardless of whether with factory or homemade tool you are working.
Before work, stretch your hands - you will be more resistant to the vagaries of the motor drill.
If old chainsaws, hand drills, drills, grinders are lying around in your attic, do not rush to get rid of them.
These tools will help you craft a new expensive device that will open up a lot of opportunities for you.
The information obtained when watching the video can be put into practice - when creating a motor drill with your own hands:
If you have ever tried to dig holes under, for example, fence pegs, then you know what a tedious and tedious task it is. So I recently had the same need in my country house. Only the pits had to be made not under the fence, but for the piles, on which the foundation would subsequently rest. frame house. According to the project, there should be a lot of these piles, it is simply unrealistic to drill so many recesses by hand. Accordingly, I became interested in ways to automate / mechanize the process of soil drilling.
It immediately turned out that such tasks had already been set before mankind and, therefore, such cool things as earthen motor-drills were invented. As a rule, this is a frame with two handles (so that two people can hold it), on which is fixed Gas engine with gear to increase torque. Rotation from the gearbox shaft is transmitted to a special earth drill, it is also called auger. Such devices are not cheap - from 10 to 100 kilo rubles.
You can also rent a tractor-based pit drill. This is provided that you can drive close to the drilling site. There are modifications with a special long manipulator, which is very convenient. Such a hole drill drives up to the desired area, fixes itself there, and immediately drills a whole bunch of holes within a radius of up to 8 meters. But I liked this option least of all, because I wanted my own earth drill: I wanted it - I woke up at night and went to drill holes!
In general, I was almost about to buy a Hitachi gas drill for my earthworks, but then fate presented me with an amazing surprise in the person of my neighbor, who for no reason started talking about his earthen electric drill which he did not know where to put. The drill is electric earth drill, i.e. this dredger is mains powered. In addition, it has a built-in battery, which, however, does not last long, but nonetheless.
