A hand drill for the earth is often required when arranging a site or building a summer house. The tool is simply indispensable if you need to drill holes for fence posts, for a gazebo, installing arches or other agricultural work. The drill is manual and automatic.
Build your own hand drill
Varieties of Boers
For different construction works are used different kinds Boers . Each of them has a special design:
- Auger drill. Its peculiarity lies in the elongated cutting part. It is used for making holes for poles. Since the design is longer, it can be taken out much less often, so the work is done faster when compared with a garden drill.
- Garden. As a rule, these are 2 blades welded to opposite sides of the pipe. They are placed at different angles. Basically, the drill is used to make holes for planting. Hence the specific name "garden". But it can also be used when building gazebos, installing fence posts, etc.
- For TISE piles. It is somewhat reminiscent of a garden one, but additionally has a spatula that leans back at the bottom of the pit for expansion.
The easiest to make are garden twirls. The design may have varieties, depending on the soil with which this tool will work. This is the advantage of a self-made tool. It can be made according to your needs. The point is not even in the diameter of the blades themselves, but in the fact that they can be made removable, bolted, etc.
In this video, consider a homemade earthen drill:
Although the price of the simplest drills in stores is low, such tools position themselves as "universal". For light soil, they will be useful, but on harder soil they are ineffective.
Self-production
Even without the practice of manufacturing such structures, it will not be difficult to make a garden and hand drill for the earth with your own hands. This is the simplest, but at the same time effective model.
Garden drill elements:
- Cutting part. As a rule, these are two blades in the shape of a semicircle, which are sharpened along the edges. One blade is fixed at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The second, on the opposite side, also has an angle of inclination of 20-30 degrees, but in the other direction. For ease of use, the cutting parts can not be welded to the pipe, but bolted. Also, the design will be disassembled. If desired, you can make several pairs of blades with different diameters.
- Rod (pipe). It can be either round or profiled. Alternatively, you can use a crowbar, but it is heavy and difficult to work with. The length of the rod must be made 40-50 cm more than the required depth of the pit. If at the same time the length of the pipe is more than one and a half meters, then it will be more convenient to make a collapsible structure. This can be done from two parts of the pipe. One part should be slightly smaller in diameter than the second. The design will be reminiscent of fishing spinning (telescopic connection).
- Pen. For this element, a transverse pipe is often welded on top of the structure. The length of such a handle is from 40 to 60 cm.
- Tip-drill. It is located on the pipe and is a continuation of the structure under the blades. Responsible for centering the drill on early stages- the first loosens the ground, which facilitates the work process.
This is the basic manual earthen drill. You can attach various gadgets to it.
Necessary materials
The pipe is the basis of the structure. The diameter should not exceed 5 cm. If you use a profiled pipe, then its cross section should be 20x20 or 30x30 cm.
Knives-blades can be made from various materials using:
- steel sheets 4 mm;
- cutting disc from a saw of the desired diameter.
The last option is more convenient and practical for production, since the cutting part is already ready. The disc must be cut in the middle and attached to the pipe. The side parts are also better to sharpen. So, the disc will cut the ground better when drilling.
The tip can be made in different shapes. You can simply sharpen a metal rod and attach it to a pipe or make a spear-shaped tip from a strip of steel. And you can combine both options.
Blade attachment
First you need to decide on the type of attachment of the blades - removable or welded "tightly". If the drill is collapsible, then small metal shelves are welded on both sides of the pipe from below. They need to drill 2-3 holes for the bolts. They should be welded to the pipe at an angle of 20-30 degrees, each in its own direction, just like cutting blades.
In addition, the holes made in the shelves must be duplicated in the blades. Their diameter must be at least 10 mm. In the blades in the center, you will have to cut holes for the pipe. This must be done both when bolting, and with a monolithic version. If a saw blade is used, then there is already such a hole. It only needs to be adjusted to the diameter of the rod.
Use of sheet steel
To make a drill with your own hands using sheet steel, it is enough to cut out a template from paper under the blades, and a metal circle along it. A hole is drilled in the center into which the rod is inserted. Two parts are fastened by welding or bolts, depending on the chosen design.
The hole diameter should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter. It can be either round or square, if profiled is used. A spiral can be made in two ways - cut a circle from the edge to the center and unbend it in different directions (one up and the second down) or make a drill from two halves.
In the latter case, the metal circle is cut in half after making a hole and then fastened to the rod according to the chosen design model. In both the first and second versions, it is necessary to bend the edges at an angle of 20-30 degrees. The smaller the angle, the easier the work process will be. But with a large angle of inclination, the drilling process is much faster.
On hard ground, the blades can deform under heavy load. Therefore, to strengthen the tool, thick steel supports are welded. The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened. It is difficult to find a sheet of hardened steel, but even if there is such a material, then bend it under right angle Not sure it's going to happen.
Use an old saw blade to create a drill
Saw blade construction
Using an old saw blade to make a simple hand drill for earthworks- practically perfect option. It is made of hardened steel, and it is strong, sharp and resilient. But it is impossible to straighten hardened steel, since it can crack at the slightest deformation. In this case, the disk is cut in half and attached to the rod at the desired angle using welding or bolts. If you use bolts for fastening, then you must first weld the shelves for fastening parts of the disk from the saw.
Such structures are characterized by high performance and durability. In order for the drill to be even sharper, the edges (cut off side) are also sharpened. Semicircular sides already have good sharpening, which over time becomes sharper and more effective when working.
garden drill modifications
For harder soils garden drill useless. Therefore, the design can be modified. To do this, it is necessary to install several rows of cutting parts on the rod. Immediately after the tip, a blade of the smallest diameter is installed. Stepping back a few centimeters to the side, the blades are mounted bigger size. There can be no more than 4 such rows. The diameter of the largest blade should not exceed 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work.
If you need to make a do-it-yourself drill for poles, then this is ideal. The design is very light and easy to work with.
If it is necessary to make a hole under the pillars of small diameter, then the work looks something like this: make a few turns with a drill, pull it out and throw out the earth stuck between the blades. But if you need to make deep holes, then in this way the work will take a long and hard time. Therefore, a container for collecting soil is welded on top of the structure. If you can’t come up with modifications on your own, then you can use the drawings.
Screw structures
Working with an auger drill is much more difficult than with a garden drill. This is due to the large number of turns, which have serious resistance. . But, as a rule, screws are used together with electric drives. and no manual drilling is required. Often they make wells of great depth, etc.
In order to make an auger drill, it is necessary to prepare several discs of the same diameter. The number of discs corresponds to the number of turns of the screw. You also need to make holes in the disks for the rod.
The disks are cut from the center to the edge, a spiral is made from each part, pulling one end up and the other down. Each part is welded to the pipe in turn. And also it is necessary to weld the round parts together.
Piling drill
The classic version of the drill for TISE is blades with a container for collecting earth. There is also a wider knife, which is necessary to form an expansion at the bottom of the pile. It is not very convenient to use such a home-made drill for personal purposes, since an additional folding knife interferes greatly.
In this regard, such structures are often made collapsible, where the folding knife can be dismantled. In general, it is recommended to use an ordinary garden drill for making piles for personal purposes, and for expansion, make a separate knife with a container for collecting earth. The job is much easier in this case.
For this design, a cut from a shovel is used as a knife., and a container for collecting land can be made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed on the levers, and when lowered along the pile, it is in the uppermost position, as it is stretched with a cable. When the bottom is reached, the cable relaxes and the knife falls on the pile walls, starting to remove the earth and form an extension of the desired size.
As an alternative, a dredger can also be made from an old propane tank. In order to reduce friction, the well is constantly poured with water. You can work with such a tool on hard ground.
Alternative options for rotaries
For the purpose of planting vegetation, produce complex structure, even the simplest garden drill does not make sense. To do this, you can use a modernized shovel. It is necessary to prepare a stainless steel shovel and mark it for further modification.
A slit of 5-8 cm is made from the bottom and in the center of the shovel. Each edge is folded in the opposite direction to each other. The sides of the shovel are also slightly bent, being a logical continuation of the lower blades.
If the ground is soft, then the usual rotation will be ineffective. For this, a mechanism with an elongated cutting part is used. It resembles a kind of glass with longitudinal slots in which hardened steel blades are fixed.
Making a hand drill for earthworks for personal use is easy. You just need to be able to use welding, a drill and other everyday construction tools many summer residents, as well as a little understanding of the drawings.
Decided to dig a well personal plot, but the budget does not allow you to buy a drill and hire workers? The question arises: how to make a drill for poles on your own at home from auxiliary tools? In the article we will talk about the methods of its manufacture and use when drilling a well.
Features of manual drilling
A home well means savings, water quality, and ease of maintenance. The services of drilling specialists are expensive, so many drill wells on their own. Sometimes this is the only way out of the situation if it is planned to loosen the earth in a place where special equipment cannot enter. Is it difficult to drill soil to water on your own? It all depends on the depth of water in the chosen place and on compliance with the rules of drilling. Following all the rules, with the help of a ready-made mechanism, you can easily punch a well.
Spiral hand drill
You can make a spiral or spoon-shaped drill yourself from the most simple materials. A spiral drill is similar to a large diameter drill, its main element is a cutting edge in the form of a spiral, which is a twisted and ground steel strip.
The most common hand tools are a shovel and a hand drill
The width of the cutting edge that loosens the ground depends on the size of the required well. During drilling, the earth is pushed up and remains on the edges of the drill, so the process will need to be stopped and the rod cleaned. This design universal, because a spiral drill can loosen any soil.
Spoon drill for hand drilling
This type of drill has a cylindrical work surface and a metal rod. A slot of a spiral or longitudinal shape is made in the lower part of the tool. The edge of the slot is one centimeter from the base and acts like a spoon, which helps to make the hole wider than the diameter of the cylinder. A spoon-shaped drill is used during loosening of loamy soils, which allows you to drill a well in stages with the installation of pipes.
Making a drill with your own hands
How to make a drill with your own hands? To make a spiral drill, you will need tools:
- steel rod;
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine;
- roulette;
- disk made of hard infusible material.
The basis of the design is the cutting part, or simply the drill Divide the latter into two identical parts and sharpen along the line of the circle and cut. The better the sharpening, the more effective will be further work with the drill. The rod is sharpened from one end and a notch is applied to the rod at a distance of 20 cm from the sharp tip, cutting edges are welded along it at an angle of 20 degrees to the central axis and 40 degrees to each other.
A similar homemade drill is made from steel tape. It is heated and turned into a spiral at a pouring angle of 45 degrees. The finished product is welded to the rod.
How to make a spoon drill?
A spoon-shaped drill will help dig a well more accurately. To make it, you will need a grinder, a metal drill, a welding machine, a metal rod and a hollow cylinder. First, you should cut through the cylindrical base from the side and make a special grip in the form of a spoon from below. If the soil is loose, then the cut is made larger. Earth gets inside the cylinder and needs to be cleaned. The dimensions of the drill depend on the required dimensions of the well.
You can make a drill for poles with your own hands from old pipe, balloon. A grinder should cut a hole in the lower part of the element and weld the workpiece along the longitudinal seam. To the end of the rod, weld a drill for metal or a pointed metal plate. Offset from the central axis - 1 cm. Use only hard materials capable of withstanding heavy loads.
The main advantages of such a device is that the hole in the ground is very neat and accurate. How to make a drill handle
The handle is welded on top of the split pipe. Rolled metal is an excellent choice in the manufacture of the handle. It is she who has the biggest load during construction work. The handle must be well fixed, it must not oscillate during rotation. Keep it smooth and easy to use to avoid injury.
Split drilling pipe
The drilling base is made in the form of a detachable pipe 150 cm long in order to loosen the earth to the required depth. It lengthens as the well deepens by adding sections, no more than 1 m in size.
Fastening split pipe sections
Fastening can be done in several ways:
- welded sleeve;
- threaded coupling;
- fastening with nuts or bolts.
The coupling should be welded to the base or to additional sections of the drill. The coupling is attached with a nut to the lower section. The drill must sometimes be lifted out of the ground and cleaned by disassembling and assembling.
The second option is thread attachment. To prevent the elements from separating, a cotter pin is installed.
Bolts and nuts are best used in drilling narrow wells, they are attached specifically to the sections of the pipe. The method is not entirely reliable, so do not use it when working with dry soil.
For do-it-yourself assembly, you will need either a welding machine, or bolts with nuts and a drill to drill holes for them Percussion drilling
Another way to dig a well in a private area with your own hands. You will need tools: a tripod, a winch, a cable and the drill itself. The height of the tripod should be on average 2.5 meters, a block with a cable is attached to its upper part. The winch is located near the supports. The working tool is a part of a pipe with thick walls and a welded seam.
A metal strip is welded horizontally to the upper part, on which a cable loop is made, where the base is suspended. The soil is removed thanks to a slot 75 percent of the length of the base. Sharpen the lower edge of the pipe and make a special grip of a petal or ball type inside. The earth will remain in the grip, so its height from the bottom edge of the pipe should be about 6 cm.
A hand drill is an indispensable thing on a personal plot. Drill holes for installing fence posts or bored piles under the foundation, make holes in the garden soil for planting. This hand tool will always find a use. Users of our portal know how to make this tool on their own, whether it is possible to somehow improve factory-made devices.
Before you buy or make your own hand drill, you need to ask yourself questions:
- For what purposes and work do you need it;
- What type of soil is to be drilled on the site.
Sand, rocky soil, abandoned garden soil, hard-plastic clays, loam, soil with a lot of roots. Drilling a pit for the installation of fence posts and posts of small diameter, drilling out "heavy" soil for powerful bored piles for the foundation under the house. All these factors have a significant impact on the design of a hand drill.
Sukhanov Mikhail FORUMHOUSE User
In my opinion, the best hand drill is the one that is "sharpened" for work on a particular site, taking into account the characteristics of the soil and its layers. Those. earthy the drill must be made under certain tasks: installation of poles, piles, etc.
The user of our portal offers the following mechanical design of the drill. How it is made can be clearly seen in this photo.
Two knives are used for preliminary loosening of the soil, which simplifies the penetration into the soil of the main blades, set at an angle. Moreover, the main blades can be made interchangeable by attaching them to bolts and nuts. Thanks to this, it is possible, using one rod, to drill holes of different diameters.
Although outwardly purchased and home-made drills are in many ways similar, it is home-made hand drills that show top scores. They are stronger, it is more convenient to work with them, because. they are made for themselves.
Sukhanov Mikhail
My neighbor and I once conducted such an experiment: we decided to compare the performance of my homemade drill (blade diameter 25 cm) and its purchased one (blade diameter 14 cm).
The soil on the site of the forum member is as follows:
- 0.7-0.8 m - "fertility";
- 0.2-0.4 m - coarse limestone;
- then a layer of marl (yellow, into fine crumbs of limestone).
During the competition, the drillers almost simultaneously sank to 0.8 m. Further, the purchased tool stumbled on marl, while, working with a home-made garden dredge, Michael continued to drill, as if nothing had happened. The neighbor had to loosen the marl with a crowbar and only then drill further.
The result of the experiment: in order to drill a hole under a stub with a depth of 1 meter, Michael it took a little over 5 minutes, and he was not at all tired. The neighbor, on the last 0.2 m, was hopelessly behind.
so-called. universal drill, as if suitable for working on different soils may be ineffective.
Therefore, among the users of our portal, home-made designs of hand drills are so popular. To do this, it is enough waste materials and basic welding skills.
The tool is made like this: a round or square pipe, its length is selected depending on the estimated depth of the pit. In the case of mechanical drilling of deep wells, the pipe can be extended by increasing it with an additional rod. The diameter of the blades is selected depending on the expected diameter of the pit and the planned work.
Large-diameter circular saw blades have proven themselves as blades. Such a disk is sawn by a grinder into two parts. The halves are welded to the pipe, and the blades must be parted at a certain angle (approximately 25-30 °). This way they sink into the ground better. A spike or a “killed” drill of large diameter is welded to the end of the pipe. The tip is needed to center the drill at the beginning of drilling. Due to the saw teeth on the blades, such a tool, when rotated, cuts the roots well.
The main thing when working with a hand drill is to stop in time and lift it out of the pit in order to dump the rock.
Boston FORUMHOUSE user, Moscow.
I made to start holiday season two diggers. The first - with a diameter of 210 mm, the second - 160 mm. The discs from the circular went to the blades. The rest was made from what lay literally underfoot. Also made a collapsible extension bar. For everything about everything, I spent 200 rubles, as they say, cheap and cheerful.
If not at hand welding machine, then such a tool can only be assembled on bolts and nuts. Also, as a drill for light soil and for drilling holes of small diameter, you can use a second-hand auger ice drill (because buying a new one is an economically unjustified undertaking). For the convenience of working at the ice device, you need to cut off the handle-brace and attach a standard T-shaped gate.
In addition to the tools described above, an interesting approach to making a homemade drill for drilling wells in the land of a forum member with the nickname VyacheslavK.
For drilling to a depth of 2.5 m, an ordinary earth drill was made. The forum member cut the blades with a grinder from a piece sheet metal 3 mm thick, on which a paper template has been previously pasted.
Then, a hole with a diameter of 20 mm was drilled in the resulting workpiece.
A cut was made along the radius of the circle.
The pin has been sharpened.
The result is such a drilling device.
In the course of the work, the following shortcomings were identified and eliminated:
- The blades converge during drilling, which significantly reduces the efficiency of drilling. To prevent the blades from collapsing, extension partitions were welded between them and to the pipe.
- When drilling holes for installing a fence, the tool, if it ran into stones or roots, was taken to the side. To eliminate this drawback, one blade, starting from the bend of the circle, was welded on an arcuate rim 30x10 cm.
- Low efficiency when passing greasy clay. For work on clay, a so-called. frame drill designed by the user of our site with a nickname KND.
Such a device is best suited precisely when working on lamellar clays. It has a minimum coefficient of friction on the rock. It is easy to remove it from the hole (there is no “piston effect” like auger drill). After lifting the drill, the clay is simply shaken out of the frame.
Although such a tool is most often used when drilling self-made wells "for water", its design turned out to be so successful that it is worth focusing on it.
VyacheslavK did like this:
From a strip of metal 5 cm wide, he cut off two identical strips and made corner bevels, stepping back from the end of the strip by 2 cm. For the strips, you can use old car springs.
Cut and sharpened knives.
I welded the knives to the drill, pointing the sharpened sides in opposite directions.
I spread the knives to the sides with the help of a corner so that the distance between the ends was 25 cm.
With a gas wrench VyacheslavK turned the knives at an angle.
Assembled and welded the entire structure.
It is worth noting that the drill quickly broke off. That's why VyacheslavK sharpened the chip, as shown in the following photo.
In the manufacture of a frame drill, it should be noted that it is not suitable for working in loose, loose soil, because. it is not framed.
Also of interest are the structures intended for the manufacture of a broadening - the "heel" - during the construction of the TISE foundation.
subarist FORUMHOUSE User
I modified the purchased drill, put a second folding shovel on it. To make it convenient to work, I made a T-handle 1 m long. Thus, I increased the effort on the lever. The length of the rod is 3 meters. Now you can drill holes with a depth of 2 meters, standing in full height, not karachkah. I cut off the teeth from the land receiver, because. they make little sense.
This “improvement” did not end there. To increase the efficiency of the earth drill when drilling out widening, subarist arched the shoulder blades - the straight ones did not cut the ground well. The future plans of the forum member include putting alloy steel blades, because. ordinary ones quickly become dull on stones.
For homeowners, a garden drill is essential tool. Wells of different depths are made with a circle. It is far from possible to drill the soil everywhere - where there is rocky soil with large inclusions hard rock, the drill cannot be used. In soft soils, a do-it-yourself hand-made earth drill effectively copes with excavation of a fairly large depth.
The erection of fences, supports for greenhouses, foundations of small buildings is carried out with the help of a dredger. In places where there is no central water supply, hand drill reach the aquifer. Homemade tools develop cavities in the ground for the construction of reinforced concrete piles. The dug wells are filled with reinforcement and liquid concrete, receiving columnar wells for structures on a personal plot.
Design
Many options are published in the media improvised designs hand tool. They are united by one idea - to excavate a certain diameter and depth using physical strength person.
A hand drill consists of several main parts:
- holder (handle);
- shaft (rod);
- extension cords;
- cutting head (screw);
- scrap (peak).
Holder
The handle of the tool is a power lever, which, with the help of the hands of the worker, imparts rotational movement through the shaft to the cutting body of the drill. The steel holder is made of the same diameter as the shaft pipe. It usually looks like a "T". The handle is welded perpendicular to the bar. There are models where the handle is attached coaxially to the shaft with several bends. Tubes are put on the vertical parts of the holder so that the hands of the worker are not subjected to friction of the handle.
Shaft
The bar is made from water pipe. The rod diameter is from ½ to 1 inch. Making the shaft thicker does not make sense - it will require more effort to rotate the drill. A holder is welded on one end of the axis, and on the other side a cutting head is attached, ending in a pointed drill (spike).
Extension cords
Additional shaft sections allow you to increase the depth of the cutting head up to 10–15 m. The sections are equipped with screw connections. The length of the shaft is increased by installing additional sections of the rod.
cutting head
The main working body of the drill is designed to loosen the soil and push it up. The planes of the blades, cutting off the layers of soil, accumulate earth on their surface. The soil is removed at the next pull of the device from the well to the surface.
Scrap
The shaft guide can be made in the form large drill or a sharpened blade. The peak enters strictly vertically into the ground, thereby fixing the direction of the passage of the drill. The scrap produces a preliminary loosening of the soil in the center of the well, which makes it easier for the cutters to cut the soil layer.
The design of the yamobur can be somewhat different, equipped with additional devices - this does not change the structure of the tool.
Popular homemade drill designs
From the whole mass of homemade products, the most popular models of drills can be distinguished:
- Bladed.
- Screw.
- Spoon.
- Shock.
- Shovel-drill.
- Bur TISE.
vane
The design of the cutting block of the bladed hole drill consists of two blades welded to the shaft, the edges of the planes of which are separated from each other by an angle of 300.
In order to make a pit drill with your own hands, you will need the following tools and materials:
Tools
- electric welding machine;
- corner machine;
- electric drill;
- ticks;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- compass;
- vise;
- whetstone.
materials
- inch steel pipe;
- steel sheet;
- inch couplings;
- inch nuts;
- old drill ø 30 mm or steel strip;
- welding electrodes.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a bladed drill
Having prepared tools and materials, perform the following steps:
- An abrasive wheel cuts the pipe into segments 400 mm and 1200 mm long.
- On metal sheet draw a circle with a compass ø 300 mm.
- The circle is cut out with an angle grinder.
- A hole is drilled in the center of the circle, which is then bored to ø 33.5 mm.
- The circle is put on a shaft (pipe 1200 mm long) at a distance of 50 mm from the lower end of the rod.
- The disk is welded to the shaft.
- An angle machine cuts the disk into two halves.
- The shaft is clamped in a vice and the edges of the circle are bred with tongs at an angle of 300.
- I sharpen the edges of the disk on a grinder.
- The middle of the pipe, 400 mm long, is welded to the upper end of the rod.
- If an old drill of a suitable diameter is not found, a steel strip of 50 x 30 x 3 mm is taken.
- One end of the strip is sharpened in the form of a peak, and the other side is welded to the bottom of the shaft.
- If it is required to drill wells with a depth of 2 meters or more, extension cords are prepared from pipe segments 1200 mm long.
- A water coupling is welded to one side of the segment so that half internal thread was free.
- At the other end of the segment, a thread is cut. It is better not to do this yourself, but to order work from a turner.
- A nut is put on and welded onto the pipe so that the thread remains outside.
- I cut the drill shaft in the middle, and also arrange threaded connections.
In the manufacture of another version of the bladed drill, they go in a simpler way. take saw blade from circular saw and cut it in half. Two parts of the disk are welded with a 300 blade spacing.
The drill will do its job much more efficiently thanks to the sharp serrated edges of the cutters.
Auger
There is a sample auger in every kitchen. This is the internal screw in any meat grinder. An auger drill is also arranged. The cutting head is a stretched helix of solid section. The screw may consist of 2 or more turns. The design of the cutting block is greater productivity than the paddle model.
Circles from a steel sheet are cut to the center. The edges are bent at an angle of 300. Then the cut discs are welded into a single spiral, the turns are welded to the shaft.
spoon
A drill spoon is used to develop soft soils. The principle of operation of the spoon device is based on the accumulation of worked-out soil in the cylindrical body of the device. A spoon drill is made from a thick-walled pipe.
What will be its diameter, such will be the diameter of the well. The spoon during the rotation of the shaft accumulates in itself the output, which is knocked out of the cylinder during the next extraction of the device from the well.
To manufacture the device, you will need a set of locksmith tools and an electric welding machine.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling a spoon drill:
- A longitudinal cut is made in the pipe with an oval top and bottom.
- The edges of the cut are sharpened.
- The upper and lower openings of the pipe are welded with circles of steel.
- The top of the pipe is welded to the rod.
- The axes of the shaft and the spoon should be shifted by 1 - 1.5 cm relative to each other. This is necessary so that during rotation the spoon performs a rowing motion.
- A thick drill or a pike is welded to the bottom plug, as in the previous version of the drill.
- The split shaft is made with threaded connections(see paddle drill).
- Also make additional sections of the rod.
- All cutting surfaces must be hardened - this will ensure long term drill service.
Shock
The type of construction is used only for the development of wells in soft soil. The principle of operation of the drill is that a sleeve from a pipe with sharpened edges is driven into the soil by impact force or under its own weight.
The captured soil is compacted in the body of the sleeve. The soil is then knocked out of the pipe and work continues until the desired depth of the well is reached. The drilling method is used to obtain a shallow depth working.
Step-by-step instructions for making an impact drill
- A piece of pipe is sharpened on one side.
- Another hole is tightly welded with a circle of steel.
- A loop is welded to the top of the sleeve.
- Above the site of the future well, a tripod made of a metal profile or a wooden beam is installed.
- A cable block is attached to the top of the tripod.
- Near the structure, a horizontal drum with a cable is installed on supports.
- The end of the cable is led through the block and connected to the loop of the shock sleeve.
Rotating the handle of the drum, the sleeve is raised to the maximum height. The released handle creates a condition for the sleeve to fall into the well. The operation is repeated until the desired working depth is reached.
Shovel-drill
In the garden business, a shovel-drill brings significant benefits. Such a device is convenient to use for the device seats under various saplings of trees and plants.
The shovel is cut with scissors for metal in several places - to form blades. The incised planes are bent in the right direction to obtain a weather vane design.
Bur TISE
A special type of drilling device is TISE drills. The abbreviation TISE stands for "Technology individual construction and Ecology. The design was invented by the Soviet engineer Yakovlev R.N.
The drill is intended for the development of cavities in the ground - for the subsequent formation of monolithic columnar foundations with an expanded base.
The TISE drill is equipped with a wide soil receiver; worked-out soil with small stone inclusions accumulates in it. When the drill reaches the bottom of the well, a folding blade is switched on, which, as it lowers, expands side surface workings.
Making a TISE drill with your own hands
- Along the entire length of the rod and additional sections, metal tubes of small diameter are welded to pass the cable.
- A hinge is welded to the bar above the cutting blade, to which the folding blade is attached.
- Closer to the edge of the blade, a loop is welded into which the cable is inserted. It is removed from the guide tube.
- The cable at the top ends with a loop, the size for a worker's hand to grip, or a special lever is made.
- As the base of the well expands, the cable is gradually released.
- A ground receiver rim made of steel strip is installed around the blades.
- At the end of the expansion of the base of the columnar foundation, the drill removes and removes the soil from the drive.
Conclusion
In the manufacture of a hand drill, the masters proceed from their experience, the availability of this or that equipment, materials, the characteristics of the soil base and the need for the size and depth of the wells. Anyway, homemade device It will be much cheaper than purchasing a factory product.
A hand drill is required for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or in the garden. With the help of this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for mounting supports in the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced by any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that you can make a hand drill for poles yourself, while saving a significant amount of money. Everything you need to make this indispensable tool, - This detailed instructions describing how to make a drill, the presence necessary materials, tools and of course patience.
With a hand drill, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for poles or plant trees.
It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loam base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made of high quality materials. In this case, the period of its operation can be unlimited.
Materials and tools
Before starting work, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do, you need to have:
- welding machine;
- welding clamps;
- grinders with a cutting disc for iron;
- electric drills;
- pairs of gas keys;
- dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
- die holder;
- vise.
Materials for the manufacture of a drill: a disk from a grinder, a drill, pipes.
As practice shows, the use in this case of simple cutting inserts that have enough large diameter, the desired effect is unable to give. A hand drill made from such material will take your time and effort in the process of drilling earthen holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made hand drill will turn out to be much more efficient, and it will take much less time to work with it.
Back to index
Device
The hand drill consists of such elements as:
- Pen.
- Insert.
- Cutting attachment.
- Coupling.
- Bolt with nut.
- Cutting plates.
- Guide rod.
- Blade.
Back to index
Production of pre-rippers
As for the worm version of the tool, it is quite difficult to make it yourself. With this in mind, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of effort applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.
The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crush dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the pit and feed the already loosened soil to the surface of the disc ripper.
The disc ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil up. In one such process, the depth of a dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, it will be quite difficult to work with a hand drill.
A good material for the manufacture of pre-rippers can be automotive spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.
To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, a certain angle must be observed. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can proceed to welding the next section of the rod. The next step to it (butt) is to attach the second element of the pre-ripper. In conclusion, it remains to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise play may occur.
As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, it is recommended to use a machined circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid the displacement of forces, due to which dug holes can turn out to be curves.
Back to index
Threading
At the opposite end of the rod, it is necessary to cut a thread onto which it will subsequently be wound coupling. For this purpose, you will need a vise and a special die. Clamp the rod (end up) in a powerful vise, while maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, absolutely undesirable shock absorption may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end so that you get a cone. This will ensure that the die sits correctly and evenly on the bar. After that, you can start cutting work.
There is nothing difficult in the process of threading. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die is stuck during operation, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After that, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The thread is considered the most optimal, the length of which is 10 cm.
The next step is to screw the sleeve onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of the butt joint. On this, you can safely assume that you have coped with the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.
Back to index
Making a pen
The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at a right angle in a T-shaped way. The main bar itself can be 40 to 50 cm long. The recommended handle width should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the resistance of the rod to the rotating force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand drill for poles will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the earth in moderate parts.
Before welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, while keeping the corners straight. Thus, you will not only save right angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not lead to the side. The welding seam should be on the end side of the main rod. On this stage should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and duration of the life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on the entire load of efforts, do not spare the electrodes for its implementation.
The irregularities of the joint are turned with a grinder, this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get during the operation of a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod, similarly to the previous one.
