The modern market is saturated various kinds construction tools and fixtures. Take, for example, a hole drill: today you can easily find a device whose cost is quite affordable, and the declared characteristics completely satisfy the buyer. It would seem that there is nothing simpler: buy and use. But you shouldn’t always rush into such an acquisition. The fact is that budget equipment in practice does not always meet the needs of the buyer, or is even not at all capable of performing the functions assigned to it: the drill is in no hurry to enter the ground even with strong pressure, engine speed drops due to heavy load, etc.
Buy a powerful and expensive device for a small volume of construction or gardening work– not always advisable. Renting is also not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, craftsmen strive to use the equipment they already have at their disposal to create compact drilling rigs.
Earth drill from a drill
In most cases, a mechanized hole drill is a power plant ( powerful drill or gasoline engine), which is connected to a conventional hand drill using a simple mechanical drive. You can make a drill yourself.
DIY drill bit.
You can find a ready-made serial drill for sale.
skyle User FORUMHOUSE
Many people say that they simply bought such an auger and secured it to it a powerful low-speed electric drill.
Engine Specifications
Recommendations regarding the number of revolutions of the power plant and its other characteristics deserve separate consideration. Let's start with the fact that the power plant can be connected to the drill either directly or through an additional gearbox. Everyone determines the need to use a reducer for himself. As practice shows, if the rated power of the drill is 2 kW, then there is no need to use a gearbox (especially if the installation does not have a special frame, and you have to hold it with your hands during operation).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
At first, a gearbox was planned, but after field tests with the “drill - auger” scheme, it was decided to abandon the gearbox. The moment is such that she does not notice the operator at all (if you drill with your hands).
The power indicator - 2 kW - was not chosen by chance. These are the drills most often used by our forum participants in the manufacture of mechanized hole drills.
Tri.Dr.E User FORUMHOUSE
There is experience in constructing a columnar foundation with a grillage. I used a 2 kW drill and an auger designed for a hole diameter of 30 cm (the diameter of the drill is somewhere around 29.3 cm). For deeper drilling, I used an extension cord from a regular steel pipe. The soil in that place is not sugar: earth, then clay, then some kind of lens with beach sand, then again clay with sand, and then blue clay (at a depth - 1.8 - 1.9 m).
In order to make holes of the required depth in the ground, the user had to build a compact drilling rig (with a frame, a winch and other accessories).
But now we are talking about the power of the power unit, and from the description presented it is easy to understand what a drill with a rated power of 2 kW (even without a gearbox) is capable of.
A little theory
If we consider the relationship between the power of a drill (or gasoline engine) and the torque on the drill shaft, it is determined by the following relationship:
- N - power (W).
- M is torque (Nm).
- n is the number of revolutions (rpm).
- 9549 – special coefficient.
Theoretically, the torque on the working shaft of such an installation at a speed of 500 rpm should be 38 Nm (64 Nm at 300 rpm). But to calculate torque, it is always necessary to take into account losses, which are determined by the efficiency of the device. The thing is that most power tool manufacturers indicate only the power consumption of their devices, and the output power (on the working shaft) is 1/3...1/4 less than the consumed power. Accordingly, the torque is less. A 2 kW drill at 300 rpm will create a torque on the spindle that is not 64 Nm, but approximately 48 Nm.
When choosing a power unit for your pit drill, you can consider devices with a power consumption of less than 2 kW. But then you will have to seriously think about introducing a reduction gear into the design of the drilling rig.
uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE
Regarding the gearbox: a gearbox is good because it allows you to proportionally change the speed and torque without changing the power. That is, by reducing the number of revolutions through the gearbox, we proportionally increase the torque. And power in this case remains a generalized characteristic (constant).
Based on the torque created by a 2 kW drill (without an additional gearbox), you can choose a suitable device for your hole drill. In other words, knowing the power of the drill, the number of revolutions of its spindle and gear ratio gearbox used, you can calculate the torque value that you will receive at the output of the power plant. But it should be understood that the speed of the drill cannot be greatly reduced.
uvl77 User FORUMHOUSE
The optimal speed during drilling is from 60...100 to 200...300 rpm. Modedepends on the type of soil, drilling method, type of drill bits, well diameter, etc.
The above quote mentions drilling methods. There are two of them: continuous drilling and drilling with constant soil removal. For continuous drilling, the rig must provide high torque.
During drilling with constant soil removal, an auger drilled into the soil to a certain depth rises to the surface. In this case, the loosened soil located on the working blades of the auger is also removed out.
The operation is repeated until the drilling rig reaches the specified depth. The process is labor-intensive, but does not require large torques.
As we have already said, when choosing a power unit for a drilling rig, it is better to focus on a low-speed drill with a power of 2 kW (that is, the torque that it transmits to the working shaft). Judging by the numerous reviews from FORUMHOUSE users, these devices have proven themselves quite well. Power gasoline engines must also correspond to the specified indicator.
Gearboxes for pit drills and their varieties
The assembly of any mechanism in most cases is characterized by the use of improvised materials, devices and components that have been lying idle for a long time because there was no worthy use for them. The experience of our users suggests that a mechanical reduction gear can be made from a wide variety of parts: from spare parts for an old moped, from a simple chain or worm gear, from a suitable gearbox of unknown origin, accidentally lying around old shelf in the garage, etc.
When equipping a drilling rig with a gearbox, the main thing is not to forget about the optimal speed of the drill and the fact that it is necessary to ensure sufficient torque on its working shaft.
Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE
I had a broken moped lying around, so I took it from rear gearbox. I sawed off the gearbox with a turbine (the back part aluminum body with a gearbox), then through the gear transmission fixed to this gearbox, an electric motor from an old electric saw with a power of 2 kW. The engine with the gearbox gave a ratio of 13:1 (the output turned out to be about 300 rpm).
About the chain drive: with a certain amount of ingenuity, you can, without much effort, build a completely reliable hole drill with sufficient power. The presented idea is not new, and many successfully apply it in practice (if necessary).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
There is no gearbox, although it was planned to be made from the VAZ 2101 timing chain and its own sprockets. The gear ratio is 1: 2. Tests have shown that it is not needed. Maybe use it on very hard soils, but we don’t have those.
The use of the above mechanisms requires a non-standard approach to the assembly of the drilling rig. If you have a small serial gearbox available (or the ability to purchase it inexpensively), then the task becomes much easier. Here, for example, is a photo of a gearbox posted by user melomandk.
Melomandk User FORUMHOUSE
I found such a gearbox. But the gear ratio is large - equal to or even slightly more than 1:40. Dimensions (according to the body) – about 15 x 15 cm.
As it turned out, the device has quite suitable parameters.
di griz User FORUMHOUSE
My hole drill is based on just such a gearbox. So far I'm very pleased. The engine is an angle grinder (3000 output rpm). The power of the grinder is 2 kW. I did not try to drill clay, but I took a hard rammed earth with inclusions of crushed stone and rotten roots. The diameter of the auger is 160 mm, the knives on it are homemade - made from springs.
bed
If there is a lot of work, if you need to drill deeply, and it is very difficult to hold the installation in your hands, then the existing equipment can be fixed in a special frame.
Design homemade beds, as well as for mechanical reduction gears, can be very diverse. But there are structural elements that are used in the vast majority of cases.
Lifting mechanism
Can be used as a lifting mechanism chain transmission installed inside the center pillar. Raising and lowering is carried out either with an additional electric motor or with a handle (as in the photo from the user jumper_at_home).
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
The maximum depth was 1.8 m (auger + extension). There was no need to go deeper. Homemade winch - 2 gears and a chain from a motorcycle.
In order for the plate with the main electric motor to move freely along the vertical pipe, four rollers can be installed on the carriage.
Another lift design involves the use of a steel cable and a winch with an additional electric motor.
Mechanic020 User FORUMHOUSE
The main electric motor of the drill travels up and down the square pipe. It moves thanks to a winch (which I already had). This winch is needed to pull the drill with soil out of the well.
For comfort Mechanic020 made a remote control that controls the winch and rotation of the drill during operation.
The drill, together with the soil adhering to it, can create quite large loads on the winch. At great depths, it will work on the principle of a piston, creating a vacuum underneath and aggravating the situation when rising upward. Therefore, the more powerful the winch used, the better.
DmitryEvg User FORUMHOUSE
My winch is designed for 250 kg (500 through the chain hoist). Power – 1 kW.
Bottom support for bed
The lower support of the frame can be equipped with two wheels (for convenient movement within the construction site). If everything is done correctly, the installation will be transferred from the transport position to the working position by simply tilting the bed.
It is advisable to install adjusting screws on the supporting elements of the frame, which will help you adjust the drill in accordance with the vertical level before starting work.
Materials for the manufacture of the frame are selected for reasons of strength. Not everyone can independently perform complex structural calculations, but anyone can benefit from the experience of the participants of our portal.
Yes, user Tri.Dr.E I made a frame from a corner 50*50*5. Vertical supports and top cross bar made of two corners of the specified size fastened together.
User jumper_at_home put different things into the design of the frame metallic profile with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm. The platform for the power plant was made by him from a steel sheet 10 mm thick.
And here is a photo of the installation that was created by the user PwrWW“from what was” (as he himself says).
PwrWW User FORUMHOUSE
The hardest thing was to find two smooth, solid three-meter pipes with a diameter of 60 mm. If they didn't exist, I would buy them profile pipe by 80 or 100 mm. Below I used a piece of 80 channel and a corner from scrap metal. Also among the scrap I found 4 U-shaped plates of suitable length.
Ideally, the carriage should be made in such a way that the drill operator can stand on it if necessary. It is especially important to comply with this condition on hard soils.
jumper_at_home User FORUMHOUSE
Here's what was used to protect the drill from turning: a steel stop angle - 6 mm, screwed to the hole for the handle, which is on the drill body. Everything is bolted together with sufficiently flat surfaces. If you want it even more securely, provide a clamp for the seat groove located on the end of the drill.
Mechanical drive
The design of the mechanical drive connecting the drill or other motor to the working shaft of the earth drill is not particularly complex. To create it, an adapter is enough, which is inserted into the drill chuck (Morse taper, etc.) and a cylindrical bushing, one end is welded to the adapter with bark, and the other is put on the drill shaft. In order to increase the depth of the hole being drilled, removable elbows made of the same material as the drill rod can be inserted between the drill and the drill.
In order to prevent damage when the working element jams, the drive and the drill should be connected using a special protective pin. The pin is made of a metal rod - 4...8 mm. It is better to test the installation with a pin having a minimum diameter (4 mm).
Almost a pro User FORUMHOUSE
Imagine if your drill hits a stone and jams. I use a 4mm nail as a shear pin and it has never been cut off. But if an obstacle is encountered, it doesn’t give too much away.
Homemade drill
As we have already said, the working part of the installation (drill) can be purchased at a specialized store, but it is quite possible to make it yourself. Here, for example, is a homemade drill with removable blades.
To make it, we need a thick-walled pipe of suitable diameter (30 mm), as well as material for the blades and for their base. The bases to which the blades will be screwed can be made of thick metal sheet(6…10 mm). The blades themselves should be made of high-strength spring steel (Article 65G). If you need a garden hole drill, don't large diameter, then you can use ordinary springs from a truck.
To make blades, you can use circular saw blades.
The diameter of the drill should be 5 mm larger than the diameter of the holes being drilled.
We present to your attention a sketch drawing of the product.
By discarding the top handle, we get exactly what we need.
The design of a homemade drill must meet the following parameters:
- The angle between the cutting blades (between the blades) can vary from 25° to 30°.
- The front edge of the blade is sharpened at an angle of 45°...60°.
- It is advisable to weld a thick metal drill to the lower end of the drill, which will make it easier for the installation to penetrate dense soil.
How garden auger secure in the drill.
Fans of fishing in the winter have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice drill. Both professional fisherman and beginners know very well how this device makes it easier to drill holes in the ice. Naturally, you can use an ice pick the old fashioned way to break through the ice, but an electric ice drill made at home will greatly facilitate the process. Moreover, if you have the drawings and the desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice drill from a screwdriver with your own hands.
Advantages of a homemade electric ice drill
Automated homemade device, made from a screwdriver, has many advantages over products purchased in a store. The main advantages include:
- connecting an electric drive yourself is much cheaper than purchasing a factory product;
- the manufacturing process requires a minimum Supplies and a standard set of tools;
- improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.
The result of efforts home handyman will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable assistant to the fisherman on winter fishing.
In order for a home-made ice drilling product to cope with the assigned tasks, it is important to choose the right screwdriver model with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will lead to problems when drilling a hole in a thick layer of ice.
Considering that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shocks and other troubles that happen while fishing.
A power tool for a homemade ice drill must meet the following characteristics:
An excellent product is a powerful screwdriver for an ice drill from the Bosch brand. You can also use a good Japanese power tool trademark Makita. Although it all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the fisherman. The main thing is that the product is suitable in terms of power and battery capacity.
Types of battery
Today, a stand-alone electric screwdriver that can be used for self-made Electric ice drill, equipped with different batteries. The following batteries are popular:
- The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, has a high charging speed, but is susceptible to low temperatures. Plus, such a battery has a high cost.
- The nickel-cadmium battery is heavy, but can operate at extremely low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.
Experienced fishermen always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from discharging quickly, it is better to store it under your jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries allows you to significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.
Replacements for electric screwdrivers
Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable . Home craftsmen can easily adapt other tools:
- electric drill;
- electric impact wrench;
- chainsaw.
The last option is convenient because it runs on gasoline rather than a battery. However, without a special tool and a lathe, it is very difficult to make an ice drill from a chainsaw at home.
It is important to understand that not every model of ice auger can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of unwinding of the power tool chuck. This causes a lot of inconvenience during winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.
Therefore, when making an automatic ice auger, it is better to give preference to imported models. Any models from the Mora company, which easily adapt to electric tools, are ideal. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought in the store, which will allow you to efficiently connect the cartridge to the auger.
The Tonar model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company produces removable augers with cutting heads that can be easily connected to a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can use an extension cord purchased at the store.
Features of the manufacture of the screw part
Most fishermen are accustomed to making various accessories themselves. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a high-quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. To manufacture such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:
- Metal pipe of suitable diameter.
- Metal plates for the manufacture of auger.
- Quality steel knives.
To connect everyone individual elements electric welding is required. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted for corrosion protection. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore it is better to buy ready product in the shop.
Cutting part
Every fisherman dreams of comfort while fishing.. It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:
- Blade hardening. Modern drill models use blades with hardness ratings from 30 to 70 units.
- The quality of the cutting blade. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.
The choice of steel when making an electric ice drill with your own hands is important if all its parts, except the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy a ready-made model in a store, you don’t have to pay attention to this parameter. For the manufacture of the cutting part is used following materials:
- Hard special steel grade P18 or similar. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of sharpening.
- Titanium plated metal. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.
Preparing the adapter yourself
It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If you are using a Swedish Mora drill, then an adapter for an ice drill for the following type of screwdriver is suitable:
- for the standard model you will need a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm;
- if the Mora Nova model is used, the diameter of the adapter should be 2.2 cm.
To prevent the auger from turning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal work surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.
There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use when drilling ice. The adapter model with a diameter of 1.8 cm from the Higashi company fits perfectly with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.
Assembly of individual elements
Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can start assembling an ice auger with your own hands at home. This is a simple process if the previously discussed elements are prepared:
- auger part of the drill;
- electric screwdriver;
- adapter of the appropriate diameter.
The cartridge is connected to the auger using an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated drill for drilling ice.
Instrument care rules
Whatever ice drill based on a screwdriver is made, so that it works as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:
As you can see, making an ice drill with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to choose the right adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single structure, you get indispensable assistant on winter fishing. Such a tool will allow you to drill a hole in the ice of any thickness in a few minutes.
When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but larger diameter and depths required when installing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.
Designs and Applications
Garden earth drills that are easier to make. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.
Making a garden drill
A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:
This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.
Materials
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.
Blade knives can be made from:
It's easier to make blades from saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.
The spear-drill is made from different materials - there are many different designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.
Pike - one of the tip options
And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and fastening method
First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.
After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.
One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters
You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.
Sheet steel
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.
From a saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.
Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows quite high performance. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.
Modifications
In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.
If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.
And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.
Auger drill
Auger drill from behind large quantity turns creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, devices for underground probes for heat pump and so on.
For making homemade auger drill You will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.
The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
Drill for TISE piles
In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.
Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options
A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.
The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.
The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.
Blueprints
A self-made drill is good because its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary; they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.
There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).
If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.
This drawing shows an interesting handle design - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.
Basic drawings of auger and garden auger
Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.
Garden auger drawing
Video materials
During pouring concrete mortar each layer is compacted. This is done manually by punching the mixture laid in layers with rods made of different materials (metal, wood). All work can be done much faster with the help of special devices - vibrators. But the factory vibrating plate purchased for home use, is not always an economically viable option because it is expensive. It makes no sense to work on it several times and then leave it to just lie there. In this case, you can make a vibrator for concrete from a hammer drill with your own hands. A homemade product will speed up the compaction process and improve the quality of the work.
To implement the project in practice, you will need the following: materials and tools:
- metal (steel) plate of the required dimensions, thickness from 50 to 70 mm;
- an iron rod or reinforcement (rectangular or round) of such length that it is possible to reach the bottom of the exposed formwork structure when pouring concrete;
- perforator;
- an old drill or a pick, a shovel, a chisel, even a crown;
- grinder with metal discs;
- welding machine with electrodes;
- ruler or tape measure;
- marker.
The minimum power of the hammer drill should be 1.5 kW - only such a tool will provide the required performance without overheating.
One side of the rod with a cross-section of 15-20 mm is processed so that it can be inserted into a punch chuck. A stainless steel plate is welded to the second side. For this you will need special electrodes.
It is better that the rod is also made of of stainless steel. Concrete is an aggressive environment. Ordinary metal is highly susceptible to chemical substances, and also wears out faster mechanically.
The sequence of manufacturing the tamping nozzle is as follows:
- using a grinder, cut a rectangle of the required size from a steel sheet, and a piece from a round or rectangular rod required length;
- weld the plate to either end of the rod;
- cut with a small margin seat borax;
- weld it to the rod.
If you do not use an old drill, you will need to make a special adapter for the hammer drill chuck, or use machine tools to grind out a seat at the free end of the rod. The easiest way is to immediately use a drill of the required length. On the basis of a hammer drill, you can make more complex devices, for example, with a flexible shaft, which will additionally mix the working solution.
Homemade concrete tamper small sizes(the simplest manufacturing option) is presented in the video.
Owners of dachas or private houses are often faced with the need to dig holes for fence posts or pile supports. For drilling the earth it is used as hand tool, and equipped with an electric or fuel drive (for example, gasoline). In the first case, the work will take longer and also require greater labor costs. Buying or renting powerful devices is expensive, so craftsmen have figured out how to make a homemade hole drill from a hammer drill.
But homemade devices, compared to factory-made analogues, have the following disadvantages:
- they can only drill relatively shallow holes of small diameter;
- They are not suitable for working on hard soils.
Structurally homemade devices consist of three parts:
- hammer drill;
- conventional earthen auger;
- adapter or gearbox.
The last 2 parts of the device can be made with your own hands. Even for sale special attachment (auger) for drilling, which is attached to a powerful hammer drill or drill. A working tool made in this way is shown in the photo below.
An important point is the amount of power and the number of revolutions of the hammer drill, which will be used in conjunction with the drilling device. Optimal value first parameter for hand model homemade pit drill is 2 kW. It should be taken into account that, depending on the number of revolutions, the drill can be connected directly to the hammer drill chuck or through a gearbox. For 2 kW models the latter is not needed.
The optimal number of revolutions of the working nozzle for drilling is from 60 to 300 per minute. This value depends on the properties of the soil in the area.
Drilling is performed in two ways:
- continuous;
- with periodic removal of soil.
In the first case, you will need a more powerful tool (with more torque).
Algorithm for making a homemade drill
To make a drill for holes with your own hands, you will need, in addition to a hammer drill, the following tools and materials:
- angle grinder;
- a welding machine with the appropriate grade of electrodes for the metal used;
- electric drill;
- unnecessary hammer drill;
- metal fittings or rod for making a rod;
- material for the cutting part;
- cable and sockets to make a simple extension cord.
The work of converting a hammer drill into a device that can be used to drill holes in the ground involves directly in creating nozzles. All work is performed in the following sequence:
- cut a piece of the required length from a rod or tube using a grinder (about a meter is enough if the power of the tool is 2 kW);
- knives are attached to the lower end (connection methods and design features of the cutting part are discussed below);
- cut off its base from the drill, intended for installing this attachment in the hammer drill chuck;
- weld the cut piece to the tube.
The simplest version is ready for use in work. If you do not use the base from an old hammer drill, you will need to grind a seat from a rod for the tool chuck or for the adapter you are using.
In addition to the manual model, you can make similar to a stationary drilling rig, possible variant which is shown in the photo below.
To provide power to a homemade pit drill, you will need to purchase or make your own extension cord.
The operation of the created device is shown in the video.
Manufacturing of the cutting part
The following are used as knives:
- drives from circular saws suitable diameter;
- ready-made augers from factory motorized drills or agricultural machinery;
- a metal sheet from which circles of the required diameter are cut, sharpening them and bending them as required.
The cutting part can be made removable (with a bolted connection) or non-removable (welded to the rod). Both options are shown in the photos below.
Cutting part design must meet the following parameters:
- be larger in diameter (5 mm is sufficient) than given parameter at the holes being created;
- the angle between the blades needs to be 25-30 degrees;
- The front (cutting) part of the knives should be sharpened at an angle of 45°-60°.
It is advisable to make the tip of the drill from a drill designed for drilling metal, so that the tool penetrates the soil mass more easily.
At its core, converting a hammer drill into a vibrator or earth drill consists of manufacturing an attachment that is appropriate in functionality and size. Difficulties can only arise if you independently prepare a seat for a cartridge or adapter on the rods. In general, the production of the considered options will not require much time and effort.
A hard-working person always has a lot to do, both at home, in the workshop, and in the garden. But you never know where a completely simple device may be needed - a modern embodiment in metal of the “Archimedean screw” principle!
Of course, like many other things, the designated tool, even on a gasoline engine, can today be bought in a specialized store. But for a real master who also knows how to count his money, there is no problem in how to make a drill with your own hands.
It is enough to assemble this device of high quality and easy to use in order to understand how much the horizon of possibilities of a person who wants to make his living space as comfortable and functional as possible will expand.
Hand drill for earth, its design and purpose
As already mentioned, a drill is perhaps the simplest mechanism that converts a person’s muscular effort or engine impulse (if we are talking about a motorized version) into a rotational-translational movement of a large “drill” (Fig. 1).
The simplicity and reliability of this device is emphasized by the minimal number of its components.
Figure 1. Earth drill - a device designed for drilling holes in the ground.
If you do not take into account some additional details, then conceptually it consists of only three elements - a metal (sometimes wooden, which is worse) pole (stand) or pipe attached to it at one end of the auger and a rotary handle (lever) attached to the other sides.
The auger, which forms a classic Archimedes screw, can have a number of additional blades for improved penetration of a particular soil mass, and the handle-lever can be made in the form of a T-shaped crossbar, a cross-shaped design, or in any other form that seems most acceptable to the customer For efficient work with a drill.
This device is widely used in geological exploration and construction work, in gardening and during men's leisure, which is winter ice fishing. It will greatly help a person who needs to dig several planting holes in the garden and make drainage wells, make a number of recesses for mounting piles, etc.
Depending on these and other purposes for using the tool, all drills may differ from each other in size and have different auger configurations. However, they all operate on the same principle.
Materials and tools necessary for the manufacture of the drill
Before proceeding directly to work, you should stock up on all necessary materials and tools. The master will need:
- line segment gas pipe(for the manufacture of a vertical rack);
- a fragment of sheet steel of high strength (for the production of propeller blades);
- a piece of smooth reinforcement (metal rod) with a diameter of 16-20 mm (for making a handle);
- welding machine;
- welding clamp;
- lathe;
- emery wheel;
- electric drill;
- set of metal drills;
- angle grinder (grinder) with a metal disc;
- gas key;
- assembly vice.
How to make a drill: sequence of operations
The manufacture of a drill (Fig. 2) begins with the production of its blade. For this purpose, a steel sheet is taken from which round blanks are cut. They are made in such a way that the diameter of the circle is approximately 5-6 mm larger than the diameter of the planned hole in the ground. Enough for a standard drill minimum quantity in 2 disks.
Figure 2. Drawing of an earth drill.
Then in round blanks The central holes are drilled. For convenient mounting on a rack, their diameter must exceed the diameter metal pipe– future rack – by about 1-2 mm.
At the next stage, the points at which the disks will be attached to the rack are designated. Holes should be drilled in the pipe at these points. For mounting disks on lathe metal bushings are manufactured. They also have radial threaded holes. Bushings bolted to the post will attach the removable auger blades to it.
Next, using a grinder with a cutting wheel, small sectors are cut from the edge to the center in the blade blanks. After this, using a vice and gas wrenches, the edges of the cuts are carefully stretched in opposite directions. As a result, each circle should have a spiral appearance. To complete the preparation stage of the blades, the lower edges of their cutouts are sharpened at an angle of 50-60 degrees.
Let's move on to the counter. So that the drill can easily enter the processed mass, a metal drill is welded at its end, where the auger will be formed. For this purpose, the tip itself is sharpened at a sharpening angle of 20-30 degrees.
The final phase of manufacturing a hand drill is the installation of a handle-lever, which will carry out axial rotation of the entire device. To fix it on the stand, a special bushing is used, previously turned on a lathe. The handle should be removable, since when drilling to great depths, you will probably need to extend the stand more than once with additional elbows. The manufacture of these elbows should be taken care of separately.
DIY drill: other design options
Figure 3. A - diagram of a drill with an auger from a recycled combine harvester, B - diagram of a drill with a pan-shaped container, C - diagram of a drill with auger blades from used disks.
Along with the described standard drill, we can offer some other options for manufacturing a hand-held drilling device, which use elements of well-known designs that have already been in use.
In particular, you can make a drill that uses an auger that was once installed on a recycled grain harvester (Fig. 3, a). At the bottom of the auger, the diameter of which is approximately 130-150 mm, an auxiliary blade made up of two old cultivator paws is mounted near the end of the stand. They should be welded to the rack so that the angle between them and the plane perpendicular to the axis of the rack is 25-30 degrees.
It is possible to make a drill using a container shaped like a pan (Fig. 3, b). This element is attached to the stand through a hole drilled in the center of the bottom of the container. The stand at the bottom ends with a drill with a diameter of up to 25-30 mm. Two knives are attached to the container body on opposite sides. In front of both knives, slots up to 40 mm wide are made in the bottom of the pan - through them, when the drill rotates, waste soil will flow into the container and accumulate there. When the container is filled, the drill is removed from the recess, the contents are poured out and lowered into the well again.
The third option, the simplest, is a drill, the auger blades of which will be used disks, previously cut into two equal hemispheres (Fig. 3, c). These parts are welded to a metal stand at their central point. Moreover, improvised blades must be attached to the stand in the same place, at a distance of at least 900 mm from the lever handle.
To give these semicircles the properties of an effective drill screw, their planes must be inclined in directions opposite to each other, and the angle between both planes is set to at least 30 degrees. This option, despite all its simplicity, it is distinguished by a very high operating efficiency - such a drill can drill a meter-long well with a diameter of about 15 cm in 10 minutes.
A few points to consider when making a drill
To make a drill not only high-quality, but also practical in the widest possible range of applications, a clear understanding of a number of important factors and following the appropriate recommendations will help. In conclusion, they deserve special attention.
For example, when producing a universal hand drill, which can be used to perform operations of various purposes and volumes, it is recommended to ensure that the auger blades are not tightly welded to the stand, but are removable. This circumstance, as well as the presence of a whole set of round blades of different diameters and configurations, will certainly make this tool a truly multifunctional device, useful in many cases in life.
It is known from practice that 9- and 12-centimeter drill blades are best suited for drilling holes for fertilizing and planting seedlings, wells for determining the level groundwater, holes for the installation of greenhouses and installation of tunnels for underground communications. The blades, whose diameter is 17 and 25 cm, are best suited for those who plant plants with tap roots, fill the supports of all kinds of fences, fences and other small outbuildings, arrange compost pits, builds wells.
