Well      06/13/2019

Planting, care and pruning of fruit trees. Seasonal gardening: garden care in early spring and winter

Every gardener faces a problem every year. spring training garden after winter. Trees and shrubs require inspection, as well as the necessary procedures, so that in late summer or early autumn you can get the expected harvest, so we will discuss the main stages of garden preparation, as well as talk about problems and their solutions.

Where to start

In early spring, when the temperature is rapidly approaching zero or above zero, we need to do a lot of work to prepare fruit trees and shrubs. Let's start with snow removal. Many crops have fragile shoots, so sticking melting snow, the mass of which is not so small, can damage shoots and young branches. To prevent this from happening, you need to walk around the garden and carefully shake off the snow on the ground.

After you have removed snow from the above-ground parts of the plants, you should examine the skeletal branches of trees and tall bushes. If some of them bend, care should be taken to construct a support. As it you can use iron rods welded in the shape of the letter “Y” or find a branch like a slingshot of sufficient length.

If the lower branches bend, they can be tied to the upper ones. At the same time, it is worth understanding that it should be tied to thick skeletal branches that will definitely withstand the weight of the sagging shoot. If a similar problem arose with a small shrub, then for a while all the shoots can be tied into one bunch. When the snow melts, you can prune, or, if everything goes well, the shoot will remain in the position in which you secured it.

Next we need to take care of site humidity. If your garden is located on a slope, you need to create natural obstacles, otherwise melt water will drain into the lowlands, and trees and shrubs will be deprived of the necessary moisture.

Important! Melt water collected in a container will help you save on watering. Also, such water is soft and contains trace elements, so it is better to preserve it.

To prevent this from happening, create small banks of melting snow across the area. So that the flowing water collides with an obstacle, and does not continue its movement along the slope.

Next, you should make sure that if or appears, you have everything at hand. To do this, check stocks of poisons and other chemical substances , which you used last year to deal with uninvited guests. Many of them have a short shelf life, so you may automatically apply an expired chemical. The effectiveness of such a remedy, as you understand, will be close to zero.
After the snow melts, you need to start cleaning the area from plant debris. All leaves, branches, dry grass should be removed, and care should be taken to first weeds.

Inspection of fruit and berry crops

After the initial inspection, we begin to identify possible problems with plants planted in the garden. You cannot hesitate, as the lack of timely intervention will lead to a decrease in yield or death of the crop.

We start with the bark. We inspect the shoots and trunk of plants for the presence scratches, cracks, burns, lack of bark. If there is damage, you need to find out the cause of its occurrence. If they are caused by activity, then various poisons should be prepared in advance. If the problem is caused by sunburn, we perform whitewashing.
Cracks may appear on the branches and trunk. It is impossible to leave everything as is, since violating the integrity of the shoot or trunk leads to further damage by pests. To prevent this from happening, you need to properly seal the crack. To do this, you should first cut off the dead bark and then remove the dead wood. If you don't do this and simply seal the hole, the dead tissue will begin to decompose, causing rot. It is necessary to strip away dead tissue until living wood and bark are exposed.

After cleaning, you need to give it time to dry. This will take 1-2 days, after which the “wound” needs to be treated and closed. Treated with any copper-containing substance, it is best to take or. At the end, the problem area is covered with a liquid solution of clay or by special means for putty.

Video: cleaning and treating a wound on a fruit tree

Let's move on to problems with broken or dry shoots. If you notice that some shoots on the tree are too dry and there are no living buds on them, then you need to take care of their removal. Dry branches should be trimmed with a hacksaw or pruning shears. We cut until we see living tissue. The cut should be smooth. After pruning, be sure to cover all cuts so that the tree is not damaged.

Separately, it is worth talking about what to do with the hollows formed in the trunk. We will solve the problem in the same way as in the case of cracks. First, we clean the hollow from dead tissue, after which we treat it with copper-containing preparations and completely cover it cement mortar.

Did you know? Levens Hall, located in the north-west of England, is considered the oldest garden in the world. The garden was created in the 17th century, and the trees that were planted at the time of its foundation still grow in it.

Protection from spring frosts

Spring frosts are the most big problem, since they are capable of destroying the crop for even initial stage. Not only small gardens suffer from them, but also huge plantings, from which the products are supplied to many stores. Next we will figure out whether this is possible to do.

This frost protection technology came to us from the USA. Farmers buy there special installations that produce fog. It not only reduces visibility, but significantly increases the air temperature, which saves trees from a sharp drop in temperature. Of course, such installations are not cheap, but if you grow particularly valuable crops that will yield a lot of expensive products, then it makes sense to purchase such an installation in order to solve problems with unexpected frosts for ten years.
Fumigation of the garden. It’s worth saying right away that this method only saves from minor frosts. If the temperature drops below -5°C, smoking will not help your plants in the garden.

This is done as follows: at a distance of 4 meters from each bush or tree, a small “hut” is built, which consists of thick logs and thin twigs for lighting; wet leaves or straw are placed on top of the “hut”. After you set such a “structure” on fire, it will begin to smoke heavily, causing the garden to fill with smoke. Smoke increases the air temperature, so trees do not suffer from frost.

Video: fumigation from frost using grapes as an example

Of course, you will have to fumigate the area for almost 12 hours, since frosts most often occur at night and last until morning or noon. At the same time, fumigation will not bring pleasure to your neighbors, and especially timid ones may call the fire department. For this reason, fires should be used carefully, especially after the snow has completely melted.

Important! Smoke fires can be replaced with smoke bombs, which can also slightly increase the air temperature.

Bonfires. An open source of fire can increase the temperature, however, as you understand, this same source can cause many problems, because the trees themselves can suffer from fires if the flames reach them. At high temperatures branches and foliage dry out quickly and then begin to burn - as a result, you can simply burn your entire garden.
It makes sense to light fires only if you have collected a lot of plant debris that has nowhere to go. Then you can dispose of garbage and at the same time warm up the air a little. However, you should not assume that such a remedy can save you from severe frosts, especially in the presence of wind.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs

Pruning is carried out only before the sap begins to flow, that is, until the buds swell. If pruning is carried out later, the tree will suffer greatly, and tree sap will begin to ooze at the cut sites. It would seem that everything is clear, there are no problems, but sap flow begins at different times, even in the same region, so you need to know exactly when to prune so as not to cut the plants when the first unformed leaves begin to appear on them.

It is also worth noting that sap flow may begin earlier in some crops, and later in others, which causes serious difficulties in the case of working with a large garden.

Why pruning is done:

  1. To form the crown of a young plant.
  2. To remove old shoots that do not produce a good harvest.
  3. To remove diseased branches that were not cut at the first inspection.


Regarding the differences in pruning young and old trees.

Young trees need crown formation, since they need to be given the desired appearance every year in order to ultimately get an adult tree with a beautiful crown that is convenient for harvesting.

Mature and old trees need it, since their crown has already formed. Every year, old 2-3-year-old shoots that bear fruit poorly and cause thickening of the crown are removed. As a result, the plant accelerates the growth and formation of new shoots, which produce more buds, and as a result, more fruits are formed.

Separately, it is worth mentioning that the most productive branches are those that extend to the sides. Vertical shoots are not distinguished by good yield, and hanging shoots do not really bear fruit at all. It all has to do with the fact that horizontal branches receive more sunlight Therefore, they ripen more fruits, which have a better taste.

Tree pruning

Did you know? Those familiar to us can boast the longest life expectancy. garden trees. Homemade can live up to 120 years, and many varieties will grow for 2-3 centuries. Moreover, the life expectancy of the same is only 20 years.

We start by removing all old shoots in early spring. They will die anyway, so we don't need them. Removal should be carried out before young branches appear. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to shorten the upper part of the shoots, since the berries are formed on side branches, and upward growth of the main branches reduces the yield. Pinching is carried out after the shoots have reached a length of 90 cm.
Pruning is also carried out if the shoots fall to the ground under the weight of leaves and berries. In this case, the main shoot should be shortened, otherwise the product will begin to rot after contact with the soil.

Fertilizing garden crops

Let's move on to an important topic, which concerns feeding plants in the garden. We will talk about all crops, so we will consider those fertilizers that both shrubs and shrubs need various types and varieties.

Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “little ones” have always been considered more fashionable, the range of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it’s worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of prickliness, impact on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.

The Egyptians used mint as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils, which are highly volatile. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article we will look at the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began growing crocuses 500 years before our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the harbingers of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is dedicated to the earliest varieties of crocuses, which bloom in late March and early April.

Cabbage soup made from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage It cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as other vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.

Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it’s hard not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners He's annoying sometimes! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest groups of tomatoes to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been valued by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for their beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today is one of the brightest garden and indoor plants. It is not for nothing that they are considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are primarily looking for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes made of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs provides tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then water it apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.

A coniferous tree or shrub on a site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, released by plants, not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the canopy flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. Financial and academic year here it starts on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step by step recipe!

Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these most popular vegetables, we will tell you about three that are distinguished by their excellent taste and relatively unpretentious conditions growing. Characteristics of the eggplant varieties “Almaz”, “Black Beauty” and “Valentina”. All eggplants have medium-density pulp. In Almaz it is greenish, while in the other two it is yellowish-white. What unites them good germination and excellent yield, but in different time. Everyone's skin color and shape are different.

Fruit garden in spring

Caring for a garden in the spring is not only about taking care of fruit trees and other plants on the site. It is also necessary to pay attention to the lawn, soil, buildings and structures.

Spring garden inspection: what to look for

Even if there is still snow outside, already in the first weeks of March it is worth starting to take care of the garden and prepare for the new season. Much work must be done even before active sap flow begins and the kidneys awaken.

Inspection of the orchard

Every gardener should know where pests and plant diseases overwinter. Many of them come down from the trees in the fall and easily endure the cold under fallen leaves. These include weevils, bark beetles and some types of caterpillars. Raspberry beetles and moths go to hibernate in the soil to a depth of 6-8 cm. Therefore, it is advisable to dig up the soil when it has already thawed sufficiently, but not wait for warmer weather.

Last year's leaves remaining on the trees indicate the presence of spider mites in the garden. Codling moths and aphids overwinter on the surface of the bark and in its cracks; their eggs can be seen on the trunk and branches. Inspect the garden for ants; these insects can cause a lot of trouble and destroy the crop.

In last year's fallen leaves, causative agents of diseases such as scab, black rot, spotting and many others also tolerate cold well. Fungus and lichens can often be seen on tree bark and lawn grass.

Problems on the site after winter

With the arrival of spring, problems may arise not only with the plants, but also with the site itself. Most often they are associated with rapid melting of snow and stagnation of water.

  • spring flood: flooded area and washout of soil;
  • poor soil drainage: water has nowhere to go;
  • swampy soil due to elevation groundwater;
  • spring return frosts.

These are just the main and most common problems that you may encounter with the arrival of spring. Each of them requires surgical intervention. Caring for the garden in March and April is the most crucial period, which determines what the next season will be like.

Typical spring problems in the garden and methods for eliminating them

After inspecting the trees, you must immediately begin caring for them. Prepare tools and processing tools in advance.

Bark cracks and frost holes after winter, frozen branches

Carry out sanitary and restorative pruning: remove dead, frozen and damaged branches during the winter, treat cracks in the bark. When the snow in the area begins to melt, you need to remove the ice crust in the trunk circle.

Sunburn of the bark

It is necessary to whitewash tree trunks and thick branches to protect them from bright spring sun. Don't delay removal winter shelter from ornamental crops, since they can resist and die.

Hollow in a tree

If a hollow is discovered, the cavity should be cleaned, disinfected and sealed with cement mortar to prevent fracture.

Large amount of snow

When snow begins to melt quickly, floods are likely to form. In such cases, it is recommended to take measures to retain melt water: trample snow around the perimeter of the site, creating artificial barriers to streams (while there is still snow, do not forget to prepare melt water for watering seedlings).

Swampy terrain

If every spring there is water in your garden, or the soil is washed away due to uneven landscapes, you should organize drainage of the area: clean and repair drainage ditches and drainage well, dig new ones if necessary.

Spring frosts

You should prepare equipment to create artificial fog, or use special smoke bombs to protect your blooming garden from spring return frosts. You can also use the most cheap way- burn weeds and spruce trees, which were used to cover perennials for the winter.

These are just basic measures to protect your garden in the spring, which will help make it easier to care for in the future.

Disease and pest control, preventive measures

Plants awaken quite quickly after winter, which is why it is necessary to have time to protect them from insects and diseases. Before the buds open and the first leaves appear, many pests and pathogens are still sleeping. Some of them overwinter in the soil, others directly on plants.

Plant protection

It is worth remembering that the leaves remaining on the branches are a breeding ground for diseases; such branches must be cut off and burned. The tree bark is carefully cleaned of fungi and lichens and treated lime mortar or special paste. This will also help burn off insect eggs on and under the bark.

Further care gardening in the spring consists of spraying plants with insecticides. These drugs are able to fight diseases such as: black cancer, scab, moniliosis, and pests: codling moth, caterpillar, spider mite, soil insects. This spraying should be carried out before flowering begins, so as not to damage the buds.

Already blooming garden processed only to enhance the protective functions of plants. There are preparations that are used to treat the soil with insects sleeping in it. All further spraying is preventive, since aggressive preparations can harm the flowers, leaves and fruits.

Ants in the garden

Ants in the garden can destroy all berry crops, especially raspberries and strawberries. You can fight them folk remedies, so as not to upset the ecological balance, or more aggressive, but fast-acting chemical solutions.

Protecting your lawn from diseases

Lawn grass exposed to diseases as often as trees and shrubs. With the arrival of spring, you may encounter rotting of the lawn and crowding out of the grass by various weeds and moss. Such problems can be solved, but in the future it is necessary to apply preventive measures so that diseases do not return and the green lawn always looks healthy and well-groomed.

If you find mold and rotten spots on the lawn, you need to carefully cut them out. It is advisable to burn the turf so that the disease does not spread to cultivated plants. After this, the soil is treated with a 3% iodine solution and left for a day. Before proceeding, carefully inspect the turf cut for mold or mildew. If it remains or has grown, it is necessary to cut out a larger piece of lawn covering.

The resulting hole should be filled with a mixture of sand and black soil, and then sowed with fresh grass. The soil may settle a little and will need to be added again in a couple of days, but not compacted, which is why the seeds are left almost on the surface, deepening them only 0.5 cm.

Fertilizing garden crops in spring

After winter, the plants in the garden are exhausted and need good feeding. It is recommended to monitor the condition of the soil and select fertilizers individually for each crop and tree, based on its age, variety and condition.

Soil fertilization

Organic fertilizers such as manure, compost, bird droppings or green manure infusion is introduced into the tree trunk circle and dug up along with the ground. Mineral supplements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements) are also used in the same way.

Foliar feeding

Foliar feeding of the garden is carried out by spraying the crowns of trees with nutrients. Apple, pear and stone fruit trees are treated with a urea solution of varying dosages.

Pruning fruit crops and shrubs

Garden care also includes correct pruning trees in spring. Each culture has its own developmental characteristics, so the approach must be individual. First of all, it is carried out restorative pruning garden in spring.

  • The apple tree is the main fruit crop in any country house, so every gardener should be able to care for both young and mature trees.
  • A fast-growing plum also needs spring pruning, it is necessary to restore the trees and thin out the dense branches. The health of the trees and their fruiting depend on the correctness of the procedure.
  • Apricot needs special care and individual formation of branches, since the ripening of fruits requires access to a large amount of light.

Bottom line

Caring for a garden in the spring includes not only pruning plants, fertilizing and fighting pathogens, but also measures to protect the soil from leaching and waterlogging, while preserving moisture for plant development. It is necessary to conduct a thorough inspection and cleaning of the site, treat the plants and prune. All your efforts will ultimately be rewarded with a bountiful and healthy harvest.

Gardeners often have a situation when plant seedlings have already been purchased, but for one reason or another they cannot be planted. For example, early frosts hit in the fall and planting has to be postponed until spring. Fortunately, there are ways to preserve seedlings until planting. This material is dedicated to the peculiarities of storing seedlings.

Where to store seedlings before planting

The method of storing seedlings is determined by various factors: the required shelf life of planting material before planting, climatic conditions, availability suitable premises and so on. Let's take a closer look at these methods.

Did you know? One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the famous Hanging Gardens of Babylon, should actually be called gardens« Amitis» named after the Median princess Amytis, for whom the Babylonian king Nebuchadnezzar II ordered them to be built. Semiramis lived about two hundred years before the construction of these gardens.

In the closet

Using a trench allows you to preserve seedlings throughout the winter until planting. The pit itself is a trench. It needs to be dug in a fairly dry place. For example, potato or tomato beds are suitable for this. The trench must be oriented in the west-east direction.

The depth of the trench is half a meter. The length depends on the number of plants being buried - they should be located quite freely in the trench. The northern wall of the trench is made vertical, at a right angle. The southern one should be inclined at approximately 45°.

All excavated soil is discarded beyond the northern edge of the trench. Sand and peat are mixed into the soil removed from the trench. If necessary, seedlings are prepared for wintering: uncut leaves and damaged roots are removed.

After this, the plants can be placed in the trench. They are laid with their trunks on the southern, gentle side, so the roots will be oriented to the north and the tops to the south. The trench with the seedlings placed in it is sprinkled, but not completely, with about a 20-centimeter layer of previously dug and prepared soil.

The pile is left in this form until stable frosts occur, i.e. every night the air temperature should drop below zero. If frost occurs, the remaining soil is poured into the trench, and in the process of adding soil, the layers of soil must be watered so that the soil becomes compacted. It is necessary to form a mound on top of the trench, which will help avoid the accumulation of melt water in it in the spring.

Important! With this method of wintering, seedlings cannot be covered with spruce branches, straw, or sawdust. The trench itself does not need to be wrapped in film or covering materials, as this can lead to premature awakening of the plants. It is advisable to periodically throw snow onto the storage area.

Under a thick layer of snow

If a stable and abundant snow cover forms in winter, then you can simply keep the seedlings in the snow. First, before precipitation falls, they are stored in an unheated room, for which they are first wrapped in a moistened cloth (preferably burlap) and film.

When sufficient snow falls (at least 6 inches of cover is recommended), the plants can be laid down. The roots of the seedling are lowered into a burlap bag filled with a mixture of sawdust and peat, and this bag is tied around the bottom of the trunk.
The branches are carefully pulled together. The entire plant is wrapped in polyethylene and the shell is secured with tape. You need to bury the plant in a shaded place in the garden, where direct sunlight does not fall. Sun rays and there is no danger of snow weathering.

In a cold place

Seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator, if, of course, the dimensions of the equipment allow and family members are not against such use. To do this, the plant is wrapped in 2-3 layers of damp gauze, then simply placed in a plastic bag.

There is no need to tie this bag, otherwise the sealed plant may become moldy. Optimal temperature storage is 0°С…+2°С. This method is only suitable for relatively short-term storage, usually no more than three weeks.

You can use it instead of a refrigerator glass balcony or loggia. Preparation for storage is exactly the same as when using a refrigerator. When seedlings are purchased with a root system packed in a soil substrate, they need to be punctured for storage. protective film in several places.
If the lump of earth is dry, you should moisten it a little, but do not water it abundantly. In this form, the plant can be stored for two to three weeks. If stored in a cellar, the seedlings are lowered into plastic bags and sprinkle them with wet sawdust.

Leave in an upright position. The bags should not be tied tightly to prevent damage to the plant. In addition to bags, boxes can also be used for storage in the cellar. The seedlings are placed there in an upright position and covered with wet sand or wet sawdust. The substrate is kept moist throughout the entire storage period.

The optimal temperature for storage in the cellar is -2°С…+2°С. It is better to avoid hypothermia or overheating, so it is advisable to monitor temperatures using a thermometer. If the cellar is very dry, you can increase the air humidity by placing an open container of water in it. However, high humidity, over 60%, is dangerous for seedlings and can destroy them.
Boxes are used to store planting material in unheated utility rooms, such as a barn or garage. They are filled with sawdust or hay and seedlings are placed there in a vertical position, wrapped in film.

They should not come into contact with the walls of the box, and the minimum distance to the walls should be at least 10 cm. They are covered with several layers of burlap or simply old things on top and bottom. Complete safety of all planting material with this storage method is not guaranteed.

Sometimes signs of development are already visible on purchased seedlings, but plant them in open ground it is too early. In this case, the plants can be preserved by transplanting them into a container. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are lowered into clean water for 12 hours, after which the plant is planted in a container with a capacity of 2-3 liters.

The container with the plant is placed in some cool room, protected from direct sunlight - this could be, for example, a glassed-in balcony or a glassed-in veranda.
Watering and fertilizing the plant should be minimal so as not to provoke its premature rapid growth. Planting in the ground is usually done in May. It should be borne in mind that with this method of planting, the plant is always weakened and will require more careful care in the near future.

Did you know? People began cultivating most modern stone fruit, nut and pome garden crops approximately three thousand years ago. But berry crops began to be grown much later. Thus, garden currants and gooseberries are known from medieval sources; there are no earlier mentions of them.

Storage Features

Storage of various garden plants(be it fruit trees, berry bushes or grapevine) has its own characteristics. Let's try to figure them out.

Coniferous plants

These plants cannot be stored in the cellar. But if they are sold in a container (and most often this is the case), they can be buried in the garden without removing them from the container, in a place protected from the wind and sun. In this case, you need to sprinkle the soil above the roots with peat to better insulate it.

The upper part of the seedling must be carefully covered with covering material. There is another good option for storing coniferous plants. For this, it is used unheated garage or a barn. The technology for preparing for such storage is described above. The only caveat is that you don’t need to wrap the crown of the plant.

Fruit trees

The best place to save fruit trees- cellar The method is described in detail above, but there are no special features in storing these particular plants.


Before planting in the cellar, leaves should be removed if they were left on the seedlings due to oversight. Methods of storing fruit trees such as digging and placing them in the snow are also widely used.

Shrubs

The features of placing shrubs completely coincide with the methods of storing fruit tree seedlings. Those. The optimal places are the cellar, burial ground and snow.

Grape

The best storage methods for grapes are storage and cellar. If a trench is used, then the grape cuttings, tied in bunches, are placed in a trench (tightly). Before laying, it is recommended to dip the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. This method is often practiced if there are a lot of cuttings.

Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed with lime milk. Besides everything, White color reflects the sun's rays, which allows you to avoid overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

In the spring, the moisture-protective bowl around the tree is filled with dry soil, compost, peat or plant debris, this prevents the rapid evaporation of moisture.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are watered thoroughly and abundantly. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in surface layer soil, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree even before it begins to bloom, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

If a tree does not bloom in the spring, it must be dug out of the ground, the roots trimmed, and for several days (preferably in the cellar) the roots should be placed in water or covered with damp soil. Only after it turns green can it be planted in the ground again.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earthen crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen in May-July, when shoots and fruits are mainly formed. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and coloring of the fruits.

In the fall, the earth is dug up around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and in row spacing - up to 15 cm. Digging around the tree is carried out only with a fork-shovel, which does not damage the roots as much. Even better than loosening is a shallow trench. In summer, loosening the soil is generally not recommended. After the soil dries out in the spring, it is treated reverse side rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

To enrich the soil with humus, various plants can be grown under fruit trees. The most suitable for this purpose are field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multi-flowered ryegrass, annual ryegrass, etc., and on sandy soils - lupine.

Seed material is introduced from early July to early August into moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. This winter planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better retain snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with precipitation levels below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantings.

Vegetables can be grown between newly planted trees, and between dwarf plantings in the case when they have not reached 3 years, and among taller seedlings - up to 8 years. The most suitable vegetables for this purpose are bush beans, peas, lettuce, early cauliflower, kohlrabi, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes, carrots and early potatoes. However, you cannot plant vegetables directly under fruit trees.

Fertilizer

The basis for fertilizing fruit trees is organic fertilizers. Typically, well compacted or composted manure is used; in the fall it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire cultivation area under the trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy ones - once every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizer are applied to weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in the fall, you can often use compost in the spring. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m2).

At the same time with organic fertilizers Mineral and chemical fertilizers should also be added to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizers; every year the dose of fertilizer increases, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, 40-50 kg of fertilizer is required, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fruitfulness of the tree. In the fall, when plowing the soil, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers are usually applied so that these substances are already absorbed during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied. You can also use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a noticeable effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied additionally, and they are applied shallowly into the soil.

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose mineral fertilizers is reduced by half. If the trees grow too wildly and the shoots ripen poorly, the amount of nitrogen fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If predecessor crops are grown under trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased according to their needs.

To feed weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use and liquid fertilizers. For example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings diluted in 10 parts of water are useful. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the circumference of the crown. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

Lime is added to the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; Berry crops are less demanding in this regard. It should not be overlooked that calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogen fertilizers, cannot be introduced at the same time.

In case of acute lack of nutrients, when their supply from the soil is limited in some way (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), it can be recommended to spray the leaves with a nutrient solution. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable period for such spraying is the period after flowering. If there is a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times after 10-14 days. If necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against diseases and pests of trees.

Protection from diseases and pests

The best defense is prevention. If fruit plants create good conditions and care for them accordingly, they will not cause much trouble to the gardener.

And if you also provide everything to attract birds as your helpers, then your worries will be completely reduced. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and for some useful birds, install titmice and birdhouses so that the birds hatch their chicks directly on the site. The birds will repay their owners with good - they will take care of useful work: pest control.

If any controversial issues arise, you should try to find out the reason and, after consulting with a specialist, make the appropriate adjustments to care for the garden and combat pests. Chemicals used only as a last resort.