Do-it-yourself garage compressor: how to do it right. Homemade compressor Budget version of the compressor

Today in everyday life there are many various kinds compressors for which various gases are used. It has the greatest popularity, which is also actively used by car owners for painting a car or pumping car wheels, since it is less convenient to use a manual pump for the same purposes. Next, we will consider how to make a compressor for painting a car yourself and what the procedure for its manufacture is.

DIY homemade compressor

Compressor motor and electronics. Click on photo to enlarge

A small hole is cut in the chamber itself, later a nipple will be located in it for electric or hand pump, which will be used to paint the car. At the entrance, it should be done with a nipple, while the second one is glued without a nipple, a sprayer will be connected to it. The degree of air compression is subject to fine adjustment empirically. To do this, an experimental batch of paint is sprayed onto the surface of the wall or any other. After a suitable pressure level is found, the pump is disconnected, and it is important to make sure that the pressure has not changed.

It is also important to consider that the camera needs to be firmly fixed, since it will not be in a stable position on the floor. This option will allow you to create a simple tool with which you can easily fix minor flaws in the paintwork on a car.

Homemade compressor with your own hands. Option 2

This case involves using a tube car tire (or tube itself) as well as a pump.

Homemade compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

In this case, the use of a chamber with or without a tire depends on how much pressure you need to get from homemade car. A small hole is cut in the chamber, into which another nipple is glued (raw rubber is quite suitable for this). One nipple must be equipped with a nipple for air injection, and a hose from the sprayer is attached to the second (outlet).

The pressure is regulated by a barometer built into the pump. Next, you need to spray paint on the wall to determine the required pressure. After that, slightly unscrew the hose from the pump so that during pressing the pressure of the sprayer does not noticeably change. The exception is autopumps with a built-in bleeder, in which case the pressure will be constant.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 1

For the manufacture of a complex compressor, you can use any electric motor from refrigeration device(if it is burned out, then only the piston mechanism must be used).

Example small compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

To extract it, the body is cut in two places with a hacksaw, and then the fixing bolts are unscrewed and the stator and pump with the rotor are removed.

Due to the fact that there is no need for a rotor, it can be knocked off the crankshaft, but if the design is equipped with a belt drive to the pump, then pulleys with prismatic keys, fixed with M6 bolts, are put on the pump crankshaft and motor shaft tails.

Keyways need to be milled on all shafts and can also be drilled using an optional 14mm bore bushing. It is put on over the shank, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled exactly along the joint, then the sleeve is removed. In cross section, the keyways have a semicircular shape, so the keys should be given the same shape.

How to make a frame for a structure?

The compressor frame can be made using two channels tied with crossbars from steel plates on screws. The pump is fixed to the frame with four bolts with bushings (their height can be adjusted directly on site), after which the motor is mounted on the base plate.

The frame allows the V-belt to be tensioned by moving it along the adjustment holes. If the air tube is long enough, then there is no need to use a receiver - it can be used as an oil sump.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 2

Compressor device. Click on photo to enlarge

For this method of making a homemade compressor for painting, an empty five-liter cylinder is useful for gas stove. Take the receiver, compressor and wheels, they must be fixed on the base. The frame can be welded using rectangular tubes with a cross section of 40x25 mm, and in the absence of a pipe, steel corners can be used. We attach wheels to the base for ease of movement of the structure. To adjust the pressure in a working compressor from a refrigeration device, visual control is required using a pressure gauge.

It is also important to set the limiter at a suitable level. A nipple, a pressure gauge and two fittings (one for the inlet, the other for the outlet) are combined by a base on a solid metal bar with four drilled holes, which are connected in one channel. The holes should be threaded for each element. The block itself is fixed with two screws on the surface of the frame. Thus, compressed air is sent to the receiver through the hose.

A slightly shortened valve can be left in the used gas cylinder. The valve should be removed from it, replacing it with a copper tube. From the inside, a PVC pipe leading to the bottom of the receiver should be put on it. With its help, moisture and oil vapors are separated.

In order for the condensate to drain from the receiver, a plugged hole must be made in the bottom, for this an M8 nut is welded and a bolt is tightened. Welding can only be started after all residual explosive gas has been expelled from it. To do this, it must be filled with water. The second copper tube, located in the M6 threaded hole in the valve, transfers air to the splitter, which transfers it directly to the consumer (to the spray gun, to the camera, to the ball, etc.) To start the engine, you can use a standard start relay, pre-attached on the frame. When painting with a gun, you can direct moisture vapor into the hose using a fine fuel filter for a car, it has the ability to retain moisture. Also, before starting work, it is important to check if there is any condensate in the receiver. Ready-made compressor for painting cars is almost silent and very compact.

Making complex compressors with your own hands. Method 3

Scheme of the compressor unit. Click on photo to enlarge

The role of the main mechanism in this version is played by a two-cylinder compressor from ZIL-130. The muffler from the KrAZ car will serve as the bearing and forming part. In design, it is a receiver. A simple frame made of a 35x35 mm corner is attached to it, on which corners and mechanisms are located.

Under the receiver there are several crossbars and the aforementioned corners, they are connected to the frame with studs, self-orienting wheels are attached to the ends.

Stage I

To convert the muffler from KrAZ into a receiver on the compressor unit, it is necessary to weld the inlet and outlet holes with plugs, then drill several holes for the M14x1 mm thread on the outlet, and screw two fittings on the sealant into them. Initially, an intermediate receiver based on an oxygen cylinder is mounted.

Its task is to absorb moisture and oils contained in compressed air. In order for it to work more efficiently, it is necessary to equip a threaded drain hole at the bottom of the device, and then block it with a sealed plug. In this case, the balloon can be removed.

Stage II

The compressor drive uses a three-phase electric motor alternating current. Suitable power is 1kW with 1380 rpm. with the windings attached to it in the form of a triangle. It should be converted to work with household power supply (voltage 220 V), but ideally the motor should be single-phase. In order for it to easily start and not overheat, it must be equipped with a starting and working capacitor bank, and then connected according to the indicated scheme.

The launch box can be used from washing machine. The engine should be started as follows: we press the button for connecting the starting battery of capacitors, and then the main starting one on the switch. After the engine reaches nominal speed, you can release the starter battery button. You can stop the engine with the stop button.

Stage III

The capacity of the working capacitor bank should be selected so that the engine does not overheat even during prolonged use. For one kilowatt engines fit capacitance of 25 microfarads. The capacity of the starting batteries in this case should be in the range from 70 to 100 microfarads. The basic criterion is speed dial engine speed. The breakdown voltage of all capacitors must be at least 300V. For better cooling, an impeller of six blades is installed on the motor shaft own production. With the help of a V-belt transmission with a threefold reduced speed, rotation is transmitted to the compressor eccentric from the electric motor.

Reducing the power consumption of the drive, and thereby facilitating its operation, can be achieved by redesigning the compressor. To do this, instead of a regular head, equipped with only two exhaust valves, it is necessary to install a duralumin plate on four valves (two intake and two exhaust). The compressor is connected to the transfer case and the receiver using pipelines. They are made of aluminum with a bore diameter of 6 mm. It is fixed with standard aviation fittings, tees, elbows and union nuts with bushings. The transfer box can also be made independently.

To do this, take an aluminum bar with a one-sided deaf longitudinal hole 10 mm in diameter. A receiver tube will be connected to it through a fitting. It is also necessary to make three more holes: one on the side and two on top. A pressure gauge is installed in one upper hole, in the other - safety valve. It should be adjusted to a pressure limit of 4 kg/cm2 (4 atm). A branch pipe for the outlet of compressed air is mounted in the side hole.

Classic layout of components and parts

This arrangement is used in all domestic household appliances. A large and voluminous receiver is used as a base for assemblies and parts. It is also used to pair motor-compressors. Under it adapts an empty cylinder from under liquefied gas for 50 liters. Such a cylinder is designed for 16 atm.

Stage I

The remaining propane is removed from the cylinder, for this the valve is unscrewed, the cylinder is placed “on the priest”, and above it is a water tank. Using a thin rubber hose with a metal tube at the tip, the balloon is filled with water. It displaces gas and all kinds of liquids contained in propane from it in order to be able to detect gas leaks. Removed from the balloon support ring. First, it can be sawn crosswise, and then bend the edges until they break off along the weld. This procedure will make the product look more aesthetic.

Stage II

Before you start welding work, the cylinder must again be put “on the priest” and filled with water to the top. The vapors that are generated during welding will be cooled as they rise through the water. A supercharger should be placed on top of a cylindrical, horizontally located receiver. It consists of twin motor-compressors on a sub-frame made of a 30x30 mm corner, a relay, a starter and a terminal block are also placed there. A handle is welded on one of the edges, it can be bent out of water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, this will help in moving the unit.

To do this, you can also bring the chassis, under the handle of one edge, install a drain in the form of an inverted letter "P", on the other edge - similar, but with a chassis. The first is made using a steel corner 30x30 mm, the second (additional) - from a corner with dimensions 40x40 mm. Crossbars, corner brackets designed for holes for wheel axles should be welded to it along the edges. On inside brackets, it is necessary to weld M8 nuts, they are used to fasten axles from identical M8 bolts.

Stage III

A hole with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled on the side of the cylinder. An inlet fitting is welded to it in the form of a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. One of the outlets of the tee is attached to it with a hose, the other two outlets are connected by similar high-pressure oxygen hoses to the outlet pipes of all motor-compressors. On connections, tees, hoses and fittings are tightened with clamps.

To remove water and oil from the cylinder during use, it is necessary to weld a short threaded fitting on the tip at the bottom of the cylinder. A hole is drilled in the wall along the inner diameter of the pipe, and the fitting itself is “silenced” using a screw-on plug. The brass valve on the cylinder needs to be improved, so a hole must be drilled at the base of the part and an M14 thread cut into it. A pipe should be screwed in there, and a pressure gauge should be attached to it with a special nut. The second branch pipe must be screwed into the outlet of the valve, after which the consumer hose must be connected to it.

A self-made compressor, in particular, its electrical part, in this case consists of a starter and starting windings taken from a washing machine, a shutdown relay and a wire connection terminal block. The latter can be taken from fluorescent lamp daylight. All of the above is mounted on a board of five-millimeter textolite and mounted on the top of the cylinder. One end of the board must be leaned on the stick of the frame of motor-compressors, the second - on another support post welded to the surface of the cylinder.

Power is supplied from a household alternating current network (voltage 220V). Wiring diagram and separate starters, depending on the amount of compressed air consumed, allow you to turn on both motor-compressors at the same time or one of the two. It will allow you to create a high-quality and durable unit with your own hands. Below, in the diagram, a compressor is shown with a valve from the design of the liquid cooling of the Moskvich car instead of a valve.

Many people know that it is possible to assemble a compressor from an old refrigerator, moreover, in a home workshop, without any special skills. But not everyone knows the technology and secrets. If you think about it - an air compressor can be useful in any garage, in any workshop and household. With it, you can paint the car, pump up the wheels, run any pneumatic tool. Even blowing off the dust is also useful. Consider the version for painting.

Installation Requirements

Painting is a responsible business. Such a compressor must meet a number of requirements. The main one is a uniform air supply, and without foreign bodies. The most undesirable defects on the paintwork are graininess, shagreen, cavities on the surface. If the air flow is not stable, all this will take place, including matte spots and streaks. Specialized branded compressors have everything you need to eliminate the slightest marriage. But the price is skyrocketing.

Buy a unit or build it yourself?

Therefore, it makes sense to make a compressor for painting a car yourself. To do this, it is worth studying in detail the device and the principle of operation of a real, factory compressor. And it is the same for all samples. In the balloon is created high pressure. The method of air injection is not fundamental - it can be mechanical or with the help of hands. In the case of manual supply, we significantly save finances, but where can we find a slave capable of continuously pumping air. The automatic process will eliminate many shortcomings and problems. The exception is the oil change in the compressor. Only the mechanism is capable of continuously supplying a jet of air to the cylinder! The theory is simple, making a personal compressor station with your own hands is simple and fast.

Compressor from the chamber of the car

How to make a paint rig out of a simple car camera? List of required material:

pump with pressure gauge for blower function,
car camera for receiver function,
awl,
repair tool kit
nipple from a car camera.

A difficult stage is the creation of a compressor station. The chamber should be checked for leaks. She is being pumped up. If there is an air leak, the problem is solved by gluing or vulcanizing raw rubber. Then a hole is pierced with an awl. We place a nipple in it for a uniform exit of the air flow. The auxiliary fitting is fixed by gluing. Will actively help to cope with this work repair kit. Then the fitting is attached to the spray gun. To control the exit of the air stream, the nipple is unscrewed.

But it is noteworthy that the old nipple is not removed. It will act as a valve and hold excess pressure. The control check of the pressure value is carried out by spraying the coloring matter onto the metal surface. If the paint lays down in an even layer, then the installation is functioning perfectly! Additional control of the pressure value can be checked with a pressure gauge. The air flow even after turning on the aerator key must be spasmodic!

Building a home compressor is easy. And painting a car after using it will become better than using a spray can. When working at home, you should avoid the penetration of dust, foreign bodies, water into the car chamber. These things can penetrate the spray gun and the painting will have to be repeated. At correct operation our unit will work for a long time, and it is desirable to automate air injection.

Masters often noticed that a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. And regardless - domestic or imported. A hand-made thing has positive energy. It is easier to repair and maintain because you know it very well. weak sides and design.

Compressor from an old refrigerator

The unit, made from the components of an ancient refrigerator, will not be inferior in operation to compressors elite manufacturers. To build it you will need:

manometer,
rust remover,
compressor receiver,
threaded adapters,
relay for quality control of flow pressure force in our compressor,
filter fuel element for gasoline,
oil moisture separating filter and its reducer,
the engine that drives the machine,
cross with 3/4 inch thread for water pipes,
switch for voltage 220 V,
sealant,
engine oil brand 10W40,
brass pipes,
oil hose,
simple syringe,
thicker board,
metal paint,
filter element of the power supply system for a diesel engine,
furniture wheels,
file,
pins, nuts, washers,
fum tape,
automotive clamps.

As a motor, a compressor unit from a rare scoop refrigerator can be useful. The compressor from the refrigerator in our example is the most optimal solution. It has one great advantage - the compressor start relay! Very old Soviet models have an advantage over foreign competitors. They are capable of delivering very high pressure. When assembling, it is required to carefully remove rust from the executive unit.

The rust converter will be able to perform a quality treatment of the compressor and prevent further oxidation. This will simultaneously prepare the body of the working engine for painting. Then move on to changing the oil. It's clear that old refrigerator if subjected to maintenance, then a very long time ago. This also applies to changing the oil in it. But there is also an excuse for such a situation - the system is absolutely completely isolated from environment. Suitable semi-synthetic oil. This modern lubricant is no worse than compressor oil in its properties. It will do the job remarkably well - it has a lot of high-quality and effective additives. On the compressor housing we find 3 tubes: two of them are open, the rest is hermetically sealed. We supply power to the compressor unit and determine the nature and direction of movement of the air flow. It is better to immediately record or mark the intake and exhaust duct.

A sealed tube is needed to change the oil. We remove it with a needle file, making a notch along the circumference of the tube. It is important to prevent metal chips from getting inside the compressor. We break off the tube and completely drain the oil into a container that will allow us to determine its volume. Using a simple medical syringe, we pour semi-synthetics, and with a larger volume than poured out!

After filling, the lubrication system of the motor is muffled. A suitable screw is selected and sealed with fum tape. It should be remembered that oil in the form of droplets will sometimes penetrate from the air outlet tube. An oil separator for the compressor will save you from this. The assembly of the installation begins with strengthening the motor with a start relay on a wooden base. It should be in the same position as on the frame. The correct switching of operating modes depends on the correct installation and installation of the compressor!

Receiver

How to make a receiver? It is good to use a cylinder from a simple fire extinguisher. He holds up very well great pressure and he has a good margin of safety. The cylinder is an excellent outlet for attached process equipment. As a basis, you can take a fire extinguisher brand OU-10 with a volume of 9.99 liters. It is able to withstand pressure up to 16 MPa. We unscrew the locking-starting mechanism from our workpiece and screw in the adapter. If we find corrosion, we will ruthlessly remove it. It is difficult to remove internal rust; for this, we fill the rust converter into the container of the cylinder and chat the contents. After cleaning is completed, screw the cross for the water supply.

A wooden board will be a good basis for mounting the motor and fire extinguisher body. It is desirable to place all working parts and assemblies on one line. Threaded studs will serve as fasteners, they must be threaded into the holes obtained by drilling. You will need nuts and washers. After taking the receiver and placing it vertically. You will need 3 sheets of plywood. One sheet for through hole under the balloon. The remaining 2 sheets are fastened with screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver. At the base of the tree, a recess is made for the bottom of the receiver. To move the unit, we attach furniture wheels.

The system should be protected from dust with a gasoline coarse fuel filter. It will act as an air intake. A rubber hose and an inlet tube from the supercharger will come in handy. At the inlet, the air pressure is very low, clamps are not useful. An oil separator is installed at the outlet to block liquid drops. A filter element of the power system is suitable (in simple terms, a filter). Will need clamps for the car. The oil dehumidifier is connected to the input of the gearbox, and the output is screwed into the crosspiece already prepared by us on the left side. A pressure gauge is screwed on the right side to monitor the pressure. And on top of the cross we screw the relay for adjustment.

System pressure adjustment

The control relay allows you to set the desired range or limit of the receiver pressure. And at the required moment, interrupt the power supply circuit of the system supercharger. In the form of an executing unit, it is advised to use RDM-5. With its help, the compressor will start when the air pressure in the tank drops below the required value and turn off if the parameters are above the allowable values. The required amount of air flow is adjusted on the relay using a pair of springs. The task of the big spring is to make weak pressure. And a small spring allows you to adjust the upper limit and set the final limit for turning off the entire compressor installation.

RDM-5 was designed for water supply lines. In reality, this is a simple two-prong switch. In this example, one contact is needed for switching with network zero, the other is needed for switching with a supercharger. The network phase is conducted through a toggle switch for connection to the second input of the compressor unit. The toggle switch will help to quickly disconnect the system from the power supply. All electrical contacts solder well. Then the compressor unit is painted and tested. During the test run, the operation of the relay and the tightness of the system are checked. A trial run will allow you to determine the value optimal pressure for painting in an even layer. To ensure high-quality and long-term operation of the compressor, maintenance is required. An important event in this case is an oil change.

If you still decide to buy a factory-made air compressor, study its parameters and capabilities. Give preference to well-known companies.

Garage compressor is the right equipment in your garage. With it, you can paint a car, inflate tires, supply air for the operation of pneumatic tools.

To do this, they are subject to certain requirements in order to create the desired air flow with the required pressure. How to make a compressor in the garage, introduces the proposed article.

Features of using the compressor

An air compressor is always needed in the garage. It can be used both to blow off dust from the surfaces of parts treated with abrasive, and to obtain overpressure in pneumatic tools.

Often the working life of the compressor is necessary to paint the car, which imposes certain requirements on the generated air flow:

The flow must be strictly uniform without any impurities in the form of droplets of liquid, oil or suspended solids. On a freshly applied paintwork, graininess, cavities and shagreen are due to the penetration of foreign particles into the air stream.
Uneven flow of the mixture leads to streaks of paint and the appearance of dull spots on the enamel.
Branded air compressors, produced by the industry, have all the functions for such a process, but are quite expensive.
Not inferior to professional ones, you can create a product model yourself or use a compressor for a garage from a refrigerator.
In this case, the device for holding compressed air, which is called the "reservoir", builds up overpressure. The air flow can be forced manually and mechanically.
Manual feeding saves money, but it takes a lot of energy and effort to control the process.
These shortcomings are eliminated with automatic injection, but in this case, the oil in the air pump is manually replaced.
Then the compressed air is evenly supplied through the outlet fitting to the actuators.

How to make a simple refrigerator compressor

The simplest compressor in the garage can be made from an old refrigerator.

To make it, you will need to purchase:

Air filter from a car, designed for different pressures. Its price is quite small.
Bypass plumbing valve, which can be restrictive and disruptive, combined with check valve six atmospheres.
Any plumbing hose that can withstand more than six atmospheres.
Chinese pistol without pressure gauge.
Any capacity accumulative cylinder. The larger it is, the less often it will need to be turned on.
From copper tubes, connecting communications or hoses of any formation.

Tip: The balloon is an accumulator for accumulating air. As you work, the pressure will decrease, which is not very important when inflating tires, where no more than three atmospheres is enough. But for pneumatic tools, this will not be enough and critical.

The instructions for making the device are as follows:

The tank is being assembled. Its device includes at least three nozzles:

input;
day off;
to drain condensate. The element is installed after mounting the container strictly below, so that the liquid can be drained without problems.

With the compressor, the problem may be that it will spit out oil, so you need to close the outlet pipe so that it points straight up.
The hose to the tank should go in the same direction.
The intake pipe is bent upwards and is equipped with a short rubber tube, it is mounted on its end air filter from the car.
A check water bypass valve is placed between the cylinder and the compressor, which prevents air from escaping back, and is the simplest indicator that the pressure has become a predetermined value. When it reaches six atmospheres, it will begin to hiss, which means that it is time to turn off the compressor engine.

Our farm already had a home-made compressor made from an MTZ tractor compressor and a 1.5 kW three-phase asynchronous motor - single-phase power supply. But he was already living out his last days - the engine windings burned out, and the compressor itself barely created 6 atmospheres, and had low productivity.

The idea to make a compressor based on the Zil-130 unit has been flying for a long time. A new sealed Zil-130 compressor was found, two used ones were bought, and even one, although a new one, was found in a village dump. But since the tractor compressor somehow worked, and its engine was frankly weak, the idea remained an idea.

But one day the engine turned up, which once stood for a long time on the fan in the ventilation chamber. Whether he was a worker or not, it was not clear, because for many years he had been gathering dust filmed in an abandoned closet. He gave himself up for self-pickup and there was no question to pick up or not.

The engine was brought to the village.

The designations on the motor were as follows: Three-phase asynchronous motor, power 5.5 kW, rated speed 1425, star connection. It became clear that the engine is powerful, but it will require connection to single-phase network large capacity starting and running capacitors. I did not want to connect the engine according to the tractor compressor scheme, because it was precisely because of such a connection that its windings burned out. It was decided to convert this motor into a single-phase one with a three-phase capacitor start. I found a diagram on the internet.

The engine was disassembled and inner connection three windings, a wire was soldered and brought out. Engine tests were successful.

The idea began to quickly materialize. For the frame, two pieces of channel Ш100 and a piece of L 50 angle were used. They are welded together.

A continuous seam is laid in the compressor installation area. As they say, the first pancake is lumpy, so it was decided to use a compressor from a landfill.

The compressor was released in 2007 and apparently stood on some combine. Disassembly showed: Loss of tightness of one inlet valve, and in the same cylinder there were rings, the liners were not worn out but had annular scoring (from the oil channel). It became clear that he would live. The valve is lapped, the rings are wetted, the burrs are removed and three holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled in each connecting rod and countersunk with a 10 mm drill. Removed oil valve and spring. An oil filler hole was drilled along the axis of the crankshaft. A breather was added.

The assembled compressor briskly pumped air. After installation on the frame, oil was poured through a 1.5 mm thick paronite gasket lubricated with sealant.

A heavy pulley from a refrigeration compressor, also found in a landfill, is put on.

The belt was taken from a gazelle as the most easily accessible one. A Ford crankshaft pulley was put on the engine.

A belt is thrown over both pulleys, the engine is exposed and mounting holes are drilled. A corner was also welded for installing a belt tensioner (from Opel).

The compressor briskly pumped from scratch, but could not pump up, the motor could not accelerate. Then the idea came up to make an unloader.

Now the compressor pumps with any pressure.

The receivers are taken from the tractor; the air passes through the pressure regulator with a filter-drier.

The configuration of the receivers also avoids the direct entry of moisture to the outlet. A reducer with a dryer is installed at the outlet.

Later, a mobile receiver was made from the gas cylinder of an Opel car.

It is not necessary to buy a compressor for painting work or pumping wheels - you can make it yourself from used parts and assemblies taken from old equipment.

We will tell you about the designs that are assembled from improvised materials.

In order to make a compressor from used parts and assemblies, you need to be well prepared: study the diagram, find it on the farm or buy some parts. Consider a few options for independent design of the air compressor.

Air compressor from refrigerator and fire extinguisher parts

This unit runs almost silently. Consider the scheme of the future design and make a list of the necessary components and parts.

1 - tube for filling oil; 2 - starting relay; 3 - compressor; 4 - copper tubes; 5 - hoses; 6 - diesel filter; 7 - gasoline filter; 8 - air inlet; 9 - pressure switch; 10 - cross; 11 - safety valve; 12 - tee; 13 - receiver from a fire extinguisher; 14 - pressure reducer with pressure gauge; 15 - moisture-oil trap; 16 - pneumosocket

Necessary parts, materials and tools

The main elements are taken: motor-compressor from the refrigerator ( better production USSR) and a fire extinguisher cylinder that will be used as a receiver. If they are not available, then you can look for a compressor from a non-working refrigerator in repair shops or at metal collection points. A fire extinguisher can be purchased on the secondary market or you can bring friends to the search, at work who may have decommissioned OHP, ORP, DU for 10 liters. The fire extinguisher must be safely emptied.