The boat is indispensable vehicle in areas surrounded by water bodies. Also for any fishing lover a good boat is indispensable assistant. To make a boat with your own hands, it will take a lot of time and effort, this also applies to financial side. However, today there are many materials that allow you to quickly and without special costs build a watercraft, one of which is foam. The information presented below will help you understand that making a foam boat is quite realistic.
Styrofoam is a fairly versatile material for making various DIY projects.
The polymer from which the foam is made has the form of a foamed mass. Due to this, there is a lot of air between its particles, which allows the material not to sink in water. In addition, the foam has good thermal insulation properties, low weight, high buoyancy due to the large area of the material and lightness. Styrofoam is available to everyone at a cost, and is also easily processed by a tool and glues well. But, this material is easily destroyed, so it cannot be bent and given complex shapes. Therefore, in order to give strength homemade boat, its body is not made of solid foam, but of a sandwich sheathing, consisting of a layer of foam with glass mat. Sandwich technology lies in the fact that between the two layers of the material that takes on the main load, there is a separating layer of a lighter material. Thus, two layers of fiberglass are separated by foam.
You can use regular extruded polystyrene without fiberglass, but such a homemade foam boat will require plywood or other sheathing. protective material from the outside, such as film or tarpaulin.
Homemade foam boats: drawings
On the Internet you can find a lot of different models and drawings. Before you make a boat out of foam, you need to draw up its project. To do this, it is necessary to draw all the components of the future structure with the exact dimensions and shape. Typically the boat is 2.6m long and 0.78m wide at the bottom. The hardest part of the design is making the hull out of parts that don't flex.
It is recommended to make drawings of the boat in full size in order to avoid errors in the calculations and be able to directly mark the details of the hull. The drawing is applied to plywood, the so-called plaza. On the plaza, the details of the boat are drawn, forming a bookmark, or the frame of the vessel - the keel, transom, knobs, stem, sternpost, indicating the width, height, cross section of the keel. To save space on the plazas, you can draw side and half-width projections one on top of the other, marking them with different colors. The projection of the hull should reflect the branches of the frame of both sides - right and left, which are best combined into bow and stern groups.
In order for the quality of the manufactured vessel to correspond to the project, it is necessary to take into account the rules for the location of theoretical lines: these are surface lines outer skin, inner decking, aft and forward edges of the frames, as well as the edge lines of the carlings and stringers. In more detail, the design of the vessel and the assembly of the drawing can be viewed on the video.
How to make a boat out of foam with your own hands
Foam boat is easy to make After making a drawing with a detailed drawing of all the elements of the boat, you can begin to assemble the frame. The inner, outer, and main skin will be attached to the skeleton of the boat. It must be durable, because the quality of the craft depends on it. The main skin, made of foam, gives the vessel stability and unsinkability on the water. The elements of the main skin must be tightly glued to each other so as not to let moisture through. The inner skin serves to protect the fragile foam from mechanical damage inside the vessel, and the outer skin - from the outside, it must be waterproof and durable.
Frame manufacturing
Important role plays the frame of the boat The skeleton of the boat is made of wooden bars. This is an important part of the design, and it must be strong, rigid and reliable. It is assembled in parts: each is measured component part, and are fastened to each other with screws or nails. To make the frame even more durable, metal corners and plates can be attached over the screw fasteners. The ribs of the frame are made of plywood. When it is assembled, you can start making skins.
Production of the main cladding
Carefully choose epoxy resins The main plating will make it possible to make sure that the foam boat does not sink with your own hands, but keeps well on the water. For its manufacture, you need to take foam sheets 5-10 cm thick, epoxy glue, a sharp tool for cutting polystyrene foam, as well as measuring instruments.
Measurements of the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame of the entire boat are applied to the foam sheets. Then they are divided into separate measurements, which will later be collected together. Since the foam cannot be bent, corner connections are made up of three elements. To attach the foam to the frame, you can use epoxy glue, which glues the sheets, as well as nails with wide hats made of flat metal plates.
Fabrication of interior and exterior cladding
The inner skin serves as a protective frame for the main EPS skin. It helps to preserve the integrity of the material from various mechanical influences, including pressure from the weight of a person inside the vessel. For the manufacture of inner lining you can take plywood. First, the area is measured inner surface vessel. You can sew up the entire area inside the boat completely or just the floor and the lower part of the sides. After taking measurements, they are applied to plywood, after which it is glued in separate parts to the main skin using epoxy glue. It is necessary to ensure that the plywood does not sag under the weight of a person, damaging the polystyrene foam.
The outer skin must be carried out so that the boat does not damage the bottom or sides of the uneven bottom or other obstacles. In addition, it will create a waterproof surface. To create a protective surface, plywood is glued to those places on the vessel where a hole is most likely to occur, as well as the bow of the boat. The rest of the hull can be covered with a tarpaulin for moisture resistance.
Do-it-yourself foam and fiberglass boat
Fiberglass is easy to buy on the construction market or order online Homemade foam, pasted over with fiberglass, is made according to the following scheme:
- After the project of the future vessel is made, as described earlier, it is necessary to make a model of the boat from plywood. Pieces of this material are cut out based on the elements of the project, glued together using epoxy-based glue (epoxy resin can also be used).
- Around the plywood model, polystyrene sheets pre-prepared according to the drawing are glued together. For better adhesion of the joints, they can be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
- The perimeter of the boat is covered with a frame of slats 10x30 mm in size.
- The transom and stem must be attached to the plywood model with screws.
- Further, the bottom and polystyrene are cut out, glued to the side and end parts, and the load is placed on top. Excess material at the joints must be cut off.
- The boards that were fastened with screws are now glued. They were needed so that the polystyrene foam did not dent during gluing. The places of the holes from the screws are sealed with foam.
- The surface of the boat is sanded with sandpaper.
- Now you need to use fiberglass to glue the hull at the rate of material for 1 layer for the sides and 2 layers for the bottom.
- The body needs to be puttied, then cleaned.
- WITH inside the hull is also covered with fiberglass, the sides in 1 layer, and the bottom - with a double layer, then puttied and cleaned in the same way as the outer surface of the boat.
A 10x30 mm beam is also attached along the perimeter of the inner side, its fixation is carried out with stainless screws with countersunk heads. A hole is made between the inner and outer fenders, where rectangular bars are inserted from both sides for fastening the sub-keys. Subsequently, a socket made of a metal tube for oarlocks will be welded there. From above, the sides are also pasted over with fiberglass to exclude possible leaks between the bars to the expanded polystyrene. At the bottom, stringers are attached to the screws, covered with epoxy. The final finishing of the boat made of expanded polystyrene is carried out using an epoxy primer applied in two layers.
Once upon a time, the shores of lakes and ponds were completely strewn with wooden boats of various sizes and designs. Of course, there were rubber ones, but there were few of them and they served as patched and patched for many years. It was even rarer to find duralumin products produced at that time in small batches.
The punts of our rivers
Those times have sunk into oblivion, and with them the good old traditions of building simple boats by the hunters and fishermen themselves. Now inflatable boats have firmly taken their place. They turned out to be more mobile, light and comfortable.
True, in some places, remote from large settlements, you can still see hand-made ones. That's what I've been using for many years.
The boat, equipped with one loose oar, with a sharp wedge-shaped bow, strong wooden sides, is excellent for moving along narrow rivers and dense reeds, which allows it to be successfully used for fishing and hunting.
Such boats were generally built according to a single principle, but in different parts they had whole line features. For example, some had a wooden bottom, others had a rubber bottom, and others had a tin bottom.
If for some reason you need just one, then you can make it yourself at home. There is nothing complicated in its manufacture, however, the first time it may turn out not quite what you would like.
Material preparation
So, let's begin. Before construction begins, you need to take care of its most important parts - the sides. For this, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on flat surface with a slight oppression from above in order to avoid their curvature.
We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure desired length(here, and also below, the specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, because all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and we file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow.
Next, they need to be planed, and the chamfered ends must be chamfered so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
These areas, and in the future all the others that will be inaccessible for painting after the assembly of the structure, are impregnated with a protective layer of antiseptic.
After that, we proceed to the manufacture of the base of the nose - a triangular bar. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The bar is also planed and covered with a protective layer.
Do not forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all the excess will be cut off.
The initial stage of the assembly
Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to the assembly. We start from the bow, we firmly connect both sides and the triangular bar with self-tapping screws or nails.
We cut the protruding parts from above and below flush with the sides.
It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The angle of the strut should also not be made too large.
Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides, here you need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much the chamfer needs to be chamfered so that the sides adjoin it without gaps.
So, gradually removing, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.
Having achieved it, we nail the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you wish. I made it as a triangle.
Then we proceed to the installation of permanent struts and seats. Their number and location is up to you. When fixing them (yes, in general, and in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid cracks.
We complete a very important initial stage by chamfering the lower part of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating on them.
See the continuation of construction in the next part -.
Buying a boat is a costly business. That is why many are wondering how to make their own small and reliable vessel. The process of creating a boat is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. However, it is quite laborious and requires a lot of attention to detail.
The first and most important step is to determine what the vessel will be made of. There are not many options, let's look at them:
- Rubber based fabric. The end result is an inflatable boat.
- Plastic.
- Steel.
- Tree.
- Plywood.
Each of the options has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are immediately evident. But now we will talk about a boat made of wood.
Having decided on the material, you can proceed to the next stages of planning and preparation.
Manufacturing features
There are really a lot of features, so let's look at them in detail:
- Woodwork. The first and main feature is the ability to work with wooden structures and with wood in particular. You need to understand which boards are best to choose, how to bend them correctly, what loads this or that material can withstand. Before starting work, it is best to prepare and read books on working with wood. Finding them is very easy, they are freely available on the Internet.
- The choice of materials for assembly. In addition to wood, you must immediately decide on other materials that will help hold the boat together and protect it from leaking. They must be suitable for the material that has been chosen and interact well with it.
- Place of assembly. For manufacturing, you will definitely need a lot of space, as well as time. For professionals, it can take from 4 to 10 days to manufacture and assemble, depending on the complexity. A beginner will need several times more time. That is why it is important to choose a dry and comfortable place.
- Tools. To facilitate and speed up the process, you will need a number of tools (which we will discuss later). In addition, it is desirable to have an additional pair of hands at some stages of the assembly.
These are the main features that you need to know, but as you work, it is likely that you will have to deal with others.
Drawing of a boat from boards for self-production
Deciding on sizes
One of milestones at the planning stage. The size depends on the capacity, load capacity and weight. It is very important to observe the correct dimensions so that the boat is stable on the water.
You can change them at your discretion, but within reason:
- The length of the entire structure. The length can vary from two to four meters. If the vessel is designed for one, then the length should be 1.8 - 2.5 meters. Two people - about 3 meters. Three people - 3.5 - 4 meters. A boat with a length of 3 - 4 meters can easily withstand up to 5-6 people, the question here is more in comfort.
- Width. Also one of the main criteria. The average width is 1 - 1.5 meters. The greater the width, the more stable wonderfully. On the other hand, the greater the width, the less maneuverability. You need to find a middle ground. It is different for everyone depending on the human body, the cargo that will be transported, as well as the length of the entire structure.
- Board height. The average and recommended board height is 50 centimeters. Again, you can make it both higher and lower, depending on your desire.
It is based on these dimensions that it will be necessary to make all the details in the future. It is difficult to determine these dimensions by eye, so it is best to make a drawing for clarity.
Turning to the drawings, we must immediately say that it is not necessary to have a talent for drawing. At the moment, the drawing can be done without having such skills online on the Internet. You can make a three-dimensional model that will meet all the requirements and desires.
In the drawing, in addition to the main dimensions, you must immediately determine the dimensions of other, smaller, but no less important details. It is best to make drawings for them separately, so that in the future you do not have to adjust them.
Reference planes required to build a theoretical drawing of the boat hull
Necessary materials and tools
Having dealt with all theoretical issues, we turn to practice. Collecting all the tools and materials and preparing them for work is the final part of the preparation, so this process must be treated with particular care.
Consider the list of tools and tools that will be needed during assembly:
This is the main list of what will come in handy during assembly. In addition, other tools may come in handy in the process. For example, a hacksaw, a hammer, clamps, etc.
Selection of boards for sheathing the bottom of a punt boat
Manufacturing process
We turn to the most interesting, the manufacturing process. We will present it in the form of a step-by-step instruction.
There is no place for haste and shortcomings, so we do everything very carefully and clearly:
Boat testing
After the creation and assembly of the vessel, we proceed to its testing.
You can test the boat in different ways, but it is best in how many stages:
- The first waterproof test can be done in the yard. To do this, turn the boat over and install it on some kind of support (chairs, benches, table). Next pour on it a large number of water. To do this, it is best to use a hose and “water” for 5-10 minutes. After that, the boat can be turned over and checked if water got inside.
- Now, knowing that the schooner does not let water through, you can go to the exit to the big water. More precisely, try it in action. It is strongly recommended not to swim out to great depths for the first half hour, because if something is done wrong and the boat starts to quickly take on water, it is much easier to get it aground.
Let's look at a few tips that may come in handy for a beginner in the difficult business of designing and building:
- When assembling, do not spare materials. For example, when fastening the sides to the bottom of the boat, it is worth spending extra time, but tightly walking through all the joints with glue or resin. In the future, such errors will be very difficult to correct.
- Do it with a margin. Extra parts of everything can be removed, for example, sawing off a block in the bow of the boat. This applies to all other details as well.
- Before using large nails or screws, it is advisable to make holes for them with a drill. This will prevent cracking.
- Don't skimp on materials. How better quality wood the longer and better it will serve in the future.
Tuzik - a wooden boat for fishing for two
Peacefully sailing in a boat along the shiny smooth surface of a calm pond is a long-standing fantasy of almost everyone. Whether to go fishing or go on a boat trip - all this will be acceptable if there is such a simple boat.
This boat is extremely lightweight (total weight - a total of 21 kg with a length within 2 m and a width of 1.2) due to the specially collected substances and the special construction method wooden boat. It is quite possible 1, without someone else's support, to lower it onto the outer trunk of a car.
Based on the production method boats lies the use of glue based epoxy resin, characterized by excellent resistance to all kinds of loads. All adhesions are performed only on such glue and despite the fact that screws, rivets and nails are hardly needed.
The elementary material for building a boat - ash wood - can be ordered at the carpentry workshop. Moisture resistant three-layer plywood five mm thick - purchase in a special boutique or on the building materials market.
Before starting the process, you need to make your choice, which kind of tinkering frames: much more painstaking, intending to bend and adhere them from separate shells, or much easier - cutting out frames from planks. Data persistence components will be quite excellent in both cases. All key production activities rooks sold on a slipway, selected from fat bars.
In the course of labor, it is not a bad idea to make epoxy glue in minimal portions, because it melts relatively briskly and seizes unsuitable in the interests of labor. First of all surfaces glued blanks are primed - with the assistance of a brush, they are smeared with a watery porridge of resin and hardener. For sticking blanks, a mixture is used with the addition of microfibers, which make it much denser. To adhesions were stable, sticky Components you need to temporarily squeeze each other with clamps.
Clamps are especially useful in the production of shaped parts. frames- futoks, and even when sheathing the frame rooks. In total, moderate-sized clamps will need about twenty pieces.
Having done frames, they make a keel, which is cut out of one, possibly a greasy board, but it can really be made from 2 glued boards. Then grooves are cut out in it under frames.
Wedged frames in the grooves of the keel and sticking the bottom to them rooks, unoccupied endings frames pairs are combined on screws with auxiliary rails. Holes for screws will not cause inconvenience later, because the edges frames will be cut down later. On the next auxiliary rail, fixed along the longitudinal axis rooks, exactly align the distances between the frames in accordance with the assembly drawing.
Frame production rooks complete by reinforcing it with another 2 rails attached to the screws on the right side and to the left of the longitudinal rail. The existing "framework" is strengthened and turned over on the slipway - labor goats.
It is not bad that the goats are well steadfast and strong. With the assistance of a special rasp, external borders frames processed so that they are everywhere, from the bow boats to the stern, impenetrably in contact with the curved rail pressed against them.
This means that the basis of a homemade wooden boat for construction is inclined. Currently, it needs to be sheathed with boat plywood. In order to save finances, for these purposes they use a much cheaper moisture-resistant pine plywood.
Component outlinesplating(drawn in wt. 1: 1 on wrapping paper) are taken out onplywoodand cut out with a jigsaw. After that, the main componentplatingspur on a set offrames. Attaching it in front to the stem, press the component with clamps toframesand mark contactssurfaces.
First of all, rather than fixing, I stickComponentsplatingto the body, it is necessary to clog free places with adhesive tape or a plate (so as not to stain them with epoxy glue). This will free you in the future from additional activities when grinding and pumice surfaces.
spikesplatingon glue they do the same as in productionframes. Contacts Firstsurfacescoated with liquid glue, later they are applied much more saturated (with filler) with subsequent fasteningcomponentsplating To frameswith the assistance of rather big clamps.
Fixing these two Components plating, are taken to a rather serious occupation - the formation of a bevel with a specialized planer at those points where the next wooden detail overlaps the previous one (in order to give the body rooks surplus severity).
In favor of this upper rim mounted component plating must be cut at an angle so that the beveled plane is in contact with the next integral part plating and at the same time close to frames. Next, glue the next component plating and so on until the whole hull is sheathed. Excess glue that has not yet frozen is removed with a lint-free linen rag soaked in acetone.
After fastening components plating , the body of the wooden boat can really be removed from the goat and the fastening of the inner and outer railings, fenders and seat supports can begin. Next, you need to fit the bases (benches) correctly and provide them with overlays. The back of the jar, knees and breshtuk - a plate of solid wood - are glued.
Subsequently, they fasten the upper lining of the handrails (consisting of 3 elements), give it a jigsaw desired configuration and glue. The construction of a wooden boat ends with grinding, spraying with boat varnish (in four to five rows) and assembling useful items.
Many people prefer to have their own watercraft. Since branded ones cost a lot, homemade plywood boats can be an excellent way out.
On the vessel, which will be discussed, three people can comfortably accommodate, besides, its weight is small, like that of a conventional kayak. It is suitable for both fishing and walking with friends or family. If necessary, the boat can be equipped with a motor or a sail.
Plywood is a durable material, so homemade ones made from it motor boats can accelerate to very decent speeds, while being stable and safe.
Parameters of the future boat
The craft in question will be 4,500 mm long, 1,050 mm wide and 400 mm deep. Such parameters allow universal use of the boat.
Material for manufacturing
To make the body strong and easily withstand loads, it is better to choose a three-layer plywood that does not have knots, with a sheet thickness of 4 to 5 mm, and must be impregnated with resin-based glue. This material makes excellent homemade wooden boats.
Plywood is used in shipbuilding everywhere. Indeed, from thin layers of plywood, connected with resin glue, a very durable veneer is obtained, which is able to withstand enormous loads.
What is the boat made of?
The main element of the whole structure is the keel. It is like the backbone of a boat and a stem is attached to it on one side, which forms the bow, and on the other hand, a stern, which forms the stern. These structural elements are responsible for the longitudinal rigidity of the vessel, for ensuring that a home-made plywood motor boat is durable.
Transverse rigidity is provided by frames. Their lower part, which will become the bottom, is called floortimbers, and the two upper side parts are called futoks.
When all the elements are assembled and securely fastened, the frame is sheathed with plywood. After that, to make the structure more rigid, the top of the stems, as well as the frames, are fixed with boards - boards.
For sheathing the body with plywood, you need to use solid sheets that will completely cover the required plane. This is the only way homemade boats and boats will have minimal amount seams. Sheathing plywood lies on the frame, forming smooth transitions lines and creating a streamlined boat shape. There is a minimal break in the waterline only on frames 2 and 4.
Boat building materials
- Plywood 3 sheets 1500x1500 mm.
- Boards - pine 3 pieces 6.5 m long and 15 mm thick.
- Two boards for keel and false keels, which are 6.5 m long and 25 mm thick.
- One board for the manufacture of a stern oar, the length of which
- A board with a thickness of 40 mm and a length of 6.5 m (for the manufacture of frames).
- Two boards for oars and stems, length 2 m, thickness 55 mm.
- Lightweight fabric 10 m, which will cover the body.
- 7 kg of wood resin.
- 4 kg of natural drying oil.
- 2 kg oil paint.
- Nails 75, 50, 30 and 20 mm long.
- Oarlocks for oars with bolts and fasteners.
We make parts
We create frames, they need to be drawn on plywood. To make everything perfectly even, use graph paper. It is made according to the drawings that will be presented here. Let's start with the first one.
First of all, you need to draw a vertical axis or diametrical plane - DP. Then horizontal lines are drawn so that the DP bisects them. There should be nine of them, and the distance between them is 5 centimeters. Then, marks are placed on these horizontal lines, along which they will create the bends of the boat itself. It is better to make them with a metal ruler, bending it along the marks. A do-it-yourself boat made in this way will have perfect outlines.
Now we create the inner contour. From the lower horizontal line, two more straight lines parallel to it are drawn upwards at a distance of 60 and 75 mm. After that, 130 mm is measured from the outer bend to the axis on frames No. 2, 3 and 4. And on frames No. 1 and 5 in the same places they lay 100 mm each, because they are extreme and go to narrowing. Thus, we draw the inner point of the tide on the floor timber, after which we draw a line down from it to its upper cut.
We build the inner contour of the futoks
From the outer part, 40 mm is deposited inward, along the entire length. And where the floortimbers join the futoxes, you need to make it a little wider so that the design is reliable. Thanks to this element, homemade motor boats have the necessary margin of safety.
When everything is done, the drawing needs to be checked by bending it along the centerline. If all the contours match - good. This means that you can make patterns from cardboard for further transferring the image to wooden blanks. In the case when there are inaccuracies, you can use the half, which is ideal, and make patterns on it, first applying one side and then the other. The drawings must have perfect symmetry, otherwise homemade plywood boats will not turn out strong and stable on the water.
How to transfer an image from templates to a tree
When the templates are ready, we apply them to the board, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The location should be in the direction of the wood fibers, you need to calculate everything so that they are cut as little as possible.
When drawing templates and cutting out futoxes from them, it is worth leaving a margin, making them a little longer than the planned sizes. When making homemade plywood boats, make the drawings in good faith, taking into account all the nuances! The presented drawings will help you with this. Pay attention to some margin in the side view drawing, as well as in the illustration of the frame, which is shown a little higher. Such a margin will avoid errors when assembling the boat frame.
When the floortimbers and futoxes are ready, they are placed on the drawing to mark all overlaps in the joints. You need to mark everything with a margin of a millimeter. This is done so that in the process of fitting the parts can be more carefully connected.
When everything fits perfectly, you can fasten the connection with nails. They must pierce through both parts of the frame. Bend or rivet the sharp end that came out. Thus, your homemade plywood boats will be even more durable!
Since the sheathing is nailed to futoks No. 2 and 4, they should be made 40 mm thick, and for the rest you can take thinner boards - 30 mm.
stem material
If you want to make a good and strong stem, take oak or elm for its manufacture. It is desirable that the workpiece has a bend in the shape of the stem. If it cannot be found, then it is made of two parts, as shown in the figure. First, its shape is cut out, and then the edges of the side edges are turned at an angle of 25 degrees to the axis of the boat. Before making a boat, you need to study in detail the drawings of boats of the same design.
Making a keel
You need to take a board with a thickness of 25 mm and a length of 3.5 m. Two lines are drawn on its surface, the distance between which is 70 mm. According to them, the future keel is made.
side boards
Two boards are hewn to make perfectly even boards 150 mm wide and 5 m long.
Transom
The rear wall of the stern, where the motor is attached, is called the transom. It is made from a board 25 mm thick. A bar is nailed to it from above for greater strength of the vessel frame.
boat frame
They are assembled from plywood on a workbench, where the keel is installed. On one side, a sternpost and a transom fixed on it are attached to it, and on the other, a stem. The remaining parts of the boat hull, such as stems and frames, are connected with small nails, screws, rivets, in a word, with what, according to the master, it will be more reliable to hold.
Everything is checked in detail to exclude distortions of the frame. It is especially necessary to ensure that the stem and transom are in line with the axis. It is very easy to check this: they fix a tight rope on top of them and make sure that this line fits perfectly with the axis of the boat. Before creating a ship, it is advisable to look at home-made plywood boats of various designs, the drawings of which are widely presented in ship modeling magazines.
All connections must be laid with resin-impregnated cloth. Fasteners with fabric are connected with nails. They are driven in so that they come out on the other side by five millimeters.
Frames are attached to the keel. They make grooves in which the keel is tightly fixed. They are cut out half a millimeter smaller than necessary, so that in case of a bevel there is an opportunity to correct everything. In general, when making home-made boats and boats, it is worth leaving gaps in all joints in order to adjust the parts already on the assembled frame for its ideal shape. And after that, all connections are firmly fixed with nails, as described above.
Plywood boat sheathing
For sheathing, the boat is turned over and the frames are reduced. That is, their surface is leveled so that the plywood fits perfectly. To do this, take a metal ruler or something even and elastic and apply it to the surface of the frame. So it will be perfectly visible where you need to shoot the material.
In order for plywood to bend well, it is steamed. It is necessary to pour water into the trough and light a fire under it. A sheet of plywood is placed on top. Water steams it, and it becomes more pliable. There is no ideal pattern for cutting out the skin, although many boat drawings represent them. In any case, these are only approximate forms, because everything is customized individually.
The fibers of the outer layers of plywood should go along the hull of the boat, so it will be much stronger in operation and will not burst during sheathing.
Puttying and painting
For greater strength and to prevent leakage, the boat must be covered with a cloth. To do this, a cover is sewn that will cover it to the sides. After that, fakes are made to install them on the outside of the bottom of the vessel. Holes are drilled in the false frames for their further fastening.
After that, putty is made for the boat. They take lime sifted through a sieve, pour resin into it, stir thoroughly until it resembles batter in consistency. Then they make a spatula and putty the entire hull of the boat.
Further, the hull up to the sides is covered twice with hot resin. A previously prepared fabric cover is put on the wet coating. It must be carefully compressed for tight bonding. All folds are well leveled. After that, prepared false keels are nailed and the already fully assembled boat is covered with resin in three layers on top. Then it is turned over with the keel down, all unnecessary gaps are sawn off and auxiliary parts are taken out, covered with two layers of drying oil with a gap of 35 hours. And then they paint and decorate as desired, like other homemade boats, photos of which can be seen in magazines or in this article.
Vessel registration
Registration of a home-made boat is carried out by contacting the GIMS. There you should write a statement indicating the type of planned vessel, passport details, place of residence and telephone number. It is also necessary to attach drawings of the vessel from all projections, indicate all the places where the mechanical parts will be installed, in general, all information related to the product. In addition, you need to attach receipts of the purchased materials for Only after the project has been reviewed by the commission, a decision will be made on the registration of your home-made watercraft.
