How to insulate a house from a gas block from the outside. Self-insulation of a house made of aerated concrete is simple and inexpensive. Warming with mineral wool: "wet" method or hinged ventilated facade

In the field of private construction, composite blocks with a porous structure are widely used. Along with foam concrete and gas silicate, which have high thermal insulation properties, gas block is also popular. Due to the rather low thermal conductivity, a feature of the material is the ability to retain heat inside buildings and structures. However, there is still a need to insulate such buildings. This requires additional thermal insulation. How to insulate a house from aerated concrete from the outside, we will consider in this article.

Why is it necessary to insulate such houses?

Despite the increased thermal insulation characteristics of gas-filled blocks, the issue of thermal insulation of building facades is one of the most urgent. To maintain a comfortable indoor climate, in addition to external insulation, some builders also perform internal gas insulation. concrete walls. The points of view of experts regarding the need for internal insulation of aerated concrete diverge. Let's figure out why aerated concrete buildings are thermally insulated?

The popularity of aerated concrete is steadily growing from year to year.

The need for insulation is associated with a number of factors:

• porous structure of the material. Air cells evenly distributed inside aerated concrete block, provide increased thermal insulation characteristics of building materials. Thermal insulation properties gas block is much higher than concrete walls. At the same time, the open form of air pores significantly increases the hygroscopicity of the material, which easily passes air vapor and cold air. As a result of the formation of condensate and crystallization of water at a negative temperature, not only the thermal insulation properties of the blocks are reduced, but there is also a possibility of their cracking. When not proper insulation aerated concrete walls and the absence of plaster, the blocks lose their thermal insulation properties;
• displacement of the "dew point" inside the aerated concrete mass in the absence of external thermal insulation protection. "Dew point" is a term widely used in the heating and construction industry. It characterizes the location of the moisture condensation zone. It is formed as a result of sudden temperature changes associated with a positive temperature inside the building and negative temperature from the outside of the building. Under conditions of temperature fluctuations associated with the climate, and in the absence of external wall insulation, moisture condenses inside the hygroscopic blocks. As a result of repeated cycles of freezing followed by thawing, the aerated concrete walls are gradually destroyed.

It is the external insulation, for which foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam, as well as other materials, can be used to reliably insulate the walls of an aerated concrete building and shift the “dew point” to the outside of the facade of the house. In addition, the insulation is less susceptible to destructive processes associated with the crystallization of moisture than gas blocks. If necessary, the heat-insulating coating can be changed. It's cheaper than repairing cracked walls.

Aerated concrete house must be insulated from the outside

Appointment of thermal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Professional builders know how to properly insulate aerated concrete from the outside. This event is carried out to solve the following tasks:

• maintaining a favorable temperature in the summer and winter time indoors;
• preventing the destruction of walls as a result of crystallization of moisture in the cells;
• increasing the service life of buildings made of aerated concrete blocks;
• reducing the amount of cash costs aimed at winter heating premises;
• displacement of the "dew point" towards the outer heat-insulating layer;
• reducing the amount of moisture absorbed by aerated concrete walls.

It is necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of thermal insulation materials, taking into account the functional purpose of protection.

External or internal finishing of aerated concrete - the choice of the optimal solution

Novice developers do not always know how to properly insulate a house from the outside with aerated concrete. Some masters prefer interior wall decoration. Indeed, it is much easier to carry out thermal insulation measures from the inside. This eliminates the need to install scaffolding, and it is also possible to easily plaster walls, use inexpensive glass wool or drywall sheets. The owners of the buildings are attracted by the fact that the large dimensions that the drywall slab has allow you to quickly complete the insulation work.

Efficient heat preservation in the room

However, internal thermal insulation has serious disadvantages:

• shifts the location of the "dew point" inside the gas-block array;
• unable to provide comfortable temperature in room;
• negatively affects the durability of aerated concrete walls;
• does not interfere with a decrease in temperature due to "cold bridges".

Sometimes internal surfaces gas block walls are covered with a layer of paint. Remember that after painting, the vapor permeability of the blocks is significantly reduced. Only correct solution – external thermal insulation aerated concrete house polystyrene, mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

Each of the materials has certain advantages, and also has weak sides. Let us dwell in the next section on the properties of heat-insulating materials.

Aerated concrete house - how to insulate the walls

One of distinctive features aerated concrete - its high thermal insulation properties. This is achieved by introducing concrete mix special foaming agent (aluminum powder or powder can be used). As a result, the released hydrogen bubbles are evenly distributed throughout the volume of aerated concrete. Compared to conventional concrete, aerated concrete conducts heat much worse.

It would seem that, additional insulation for such material is not required, but this assumption is not always true. Perhaps, only in a warm climate and in conditions of a very mild European winter, additional thermal insulation will not be required. In all other cases, it is desirable to insulate aerated concrete both inside the building and outside. In this case, many factors must be taken into account when choosing a heat-insulating material and the technique of performing work.

How to insulate a house from aerated concrete

When insulating walls made of aerated concrete, many materials can be used, from conventional plaster to special "breathing" materials with high thermal insulation properties. The following materials are used:

• ordinary plaster(with the addition of aggregates such as sawdust, perlite, expanded glass). The advantages of this material include low cost, convenience and practicality. The main disadvantage is the loss of "breathing" properties of aerated concrete. Compared with mineral wool and other thermal insulation materials, they have low efficiency;
• Styrofoam(polystyrene foam). Its vapor permeability is at least 3 to 10 times less than the vapor permeability of aerated concrete, so foam is used for insulation only as a last resort.

Styrofoam insulation is not recommended in humid climates. The fact is that moisture will accumulate between the surface of aerated concrete and polystyrene, which, ultimately, will lead to rotting of aerated concrete blocks.

• mineral wool. The vapor permeability of mineral wool is even higher than that of aerated concrete, so that the insulation of walls made of aerated concrete using this material allows you to maintain a given microclimate in the room. Most often, mineral wool is used for insulation;

• polyurethane foam. Combines ease of application and high thermal insulation qualities.

Polyurethane foam is applied to the surface of aerated concrete by spraying. Thanks to this, a seamless surface of the insulation is created.

Methods of insulation of aerated concrete walls

There are several methods for performing external sealing of aerated concrete walls, depending on this, the composition of the required tools and materials also varies. There are such technologies:

1. . A separate frame (metal or wooden) is created in the cells of which thermal insulation material. Then it is sheathed with decorative elements.

1. Wet facade technology(easy option). Plates of heat-insulating material are attached to glue and plastic dowels, then the surface is plastered in 2 layers with a reinforcing mesh placed between them.

1. Heavy version of "wet" technology. In this case, you will have to expand the foundation. The insulation is attached to the aerated concrete wall with powerful hooks. Then the surface of the insulation is plastered with simultaneous reinforcement with a mesh. After the plaster has dried, the wall is lined with natural stone or other material.

From the point of view of efficiency and cost, it is the light version of the “wet” insulation technology that is preferable.

Materials and tools for warming a house made of aerated concrete

To insulate a house made of aerated concrete, you will need:

• heat-insulating material (foam sheets or mineral wool in the form of rigid mats);
• special glue;

It is better not to try to save money and use cheap adhesive mixtures, in the future this may cause the mineral wool to peel off the wall.

• dowels "umbrellas" (for additional fastening of mineral wool mats);

• fiberglass mesh;
• container for the preparation of the adhesive mixture;
• perforated corners;
• building level;
• notched trowel;
• perforator.

The technology of warming a house from aerated concrete outside

Even before the start of the work, it is necessary to decide on the heat-insulating material, the technology for performing the work will depend on this. The main thing to pay attention to is the purpose of the building, as well as the vapor permeability of aerated concrete blocks and heat-insulating material.

You should not try to save on the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. The fact is that the cost of glue and other materials will hardly change, but the thermal insulation characteristics will drop significantly.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. Preparatory stage. The surface of the wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, possible defects are repaired with a conventional cement mortar. If the area of ​​the defect is large, then "breathing" plaster mixes can be used to correct it. For better adhesion of the adhesive to the wall surface, you can use a primer.
2. At the level of the base, a frame is mounted, which will serve as a support for the insulation mats.

1. Vertical beacons are placed at the corners of the house.
2. The insulation is attached to the wall with a special adhesive. Glue is recommended to be applied along the perimeter of the mineral wool (or foam) slab and with several strokes in the center.

It is allowed to apply the adhesive mixture over the entire surface of the plate using a notched trowel. Cross-shaped joints should be avoided; for this, each subsequent row of plates is shifted relative to the previous one. Quite often, for the strength of the connection between the slab and the wall, plastic dowels and umbrellas are also used. They are located at the corners and in the center of the plate.

Gaps between plates should be avoided. The presence of gaps (the so-called "cold bridges") significantly reduces the effectiveness of insulation

1. mineral wool pretty soft material, to give it rigidity, a fiberglass mesh is used. Glue is applied to the surface of the insulation with a spatula, then a mesh is placed (overlapping, the overlap should be at least 10 cm), another layer of the adhesive mixture is applied on top of the mesh.

1. After reinforcing the insulation, it is necessary to further strengthen the corners of the building, window and door openings. To do this, perforated corners are glued to the corners.
2. After that, the surface is either primed and plastered (in 2 layers) or a layer of putty is applied and then the walls are painted.

If you plan to arrange a hinged facade, then even before gluing the insulation, you need to mount a frame on the wall, on which the facade panels will then be attached.

A well-insulated house made of aerated concrete will not only make you feel cozy and comfortable in the cold season, but will also save on heating bills.

Aerated concrete insulation is necessary step the buildings own house. We will consider which method of insulation to choose, what materials can be done, whether it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete and how to do it correctly, if necessary.

Why is it necessary to insulate walls made of gas silicate?

For those who are building a house from scratch, the question may arise: why buy aerated concrete wall insulation if you can increase the thickness of the walls? It's all about the cost of the work. The design of external insulation includes mineral wool slabs, fasteners, mesh, glue, plaster. In terms of cost, this is comparable to an increase in the thickness of the wall. However, it is worth remembering that a more massive masonry needs a more powerful foundation. And if you spend everything necessary calculations, we can see that it is much more profitable to insulate a house from aerated concrete outside or inside than to increase the thickness of the walls. Yes, and insulating walls made of aerated concrete inside is also unprofitable because with this you will take away living space.

In addition, cellular concrete allows moisture to pass through, which freezes in the cold season and begins to tear the walls. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing works and insulation, no matter how thick the walls are. If the wall is within positive temperatures, it will last much longer.

How to choose wall insulation from aerated concrete: outside or inside? Of course, doing this procedure inside is much easier, faster and cheaper. However, it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete from the outside. First of all, you will protect it from freezing and thus extend the life of the material. In addition, in any walls there are so-called "cold bridges". These are the places where reinforcing belts, lintels or floor slabs are located. And external wall insulation can solve these problems. Basically, insulation of aerated concrete from the inside is done when for some reason it is not possible to do it from the outside, and also as additional thermal insulation.

As you can see, the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete will be an unconditional “yes”. Otherwise, the life of the premises will be reduced, and much more money will be spent on heating the house.

The choice of material and method of insulation

What is the best way to insulate a house made of aerated concrete? The most common materials are polystyrene and mineral wool. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of each.

In terms of thermal conductivity, these materials are very close to each other. Styrofoam is easier to work with, because it is light and cuts easily. And joints or random cracks, if necessary, can be repaired with foam. When working with mineral wool, it is necessary to use some protective equipment.

Both materials are fire resistant. However, their vapor permeability is different. Expanded polystyrene does not let in steam, while mineral wool allows the walls to "breathe". Therefore, if you decide to insulate the walls with foam, the humidity in the house may increase slightly. When insulating the outside with mineral wool, you need to remember that it absorbs moisture. For aerated concrete, this is not very good, so waterproofing is indispensable. At the same time, this material has good sound insulation.

In order for thermal insulation work to be most effective, it is necessary to choose a thickness of 10 cm insulation. The cost of finishing does not change if you take a thinner insulation material. But thermal insulation deteriorates significantly. If you decide to carry out work on the insulation of the facade of the house, the thickness of the insulation must be at least 5 cm. Otherwise, the whole procedure will not bring the desired effect.

If you still have not chosen a material and are thinking about how to insulate an aerated concrete house from the outside, mineral wool will be an excellent insulation.

There is a so-called "wet" and "dry" insulation. The first includes fixing the insulation to the walls of the gas block with glue and dowels with a wide hat. Then the material is leveled with plaster and optionally supplemented. facing material. If it is planned to use heavy material as a cladding, then the insulation is fixed not with glue, but with hooks. A metal mesh is placed on top and everything is covered with metal plates. Then plaster is applied with a thickness of 2-4 cm and only after that the facing material is laid.

With "dry" insulation, a frame is created in which the heat-insulating material is hidden. The frame can be metal or wood. It needs to be sheathed with plastic or metal siding, wooden board. They are most often insulated with mineral wool for siding. The cost of this type of thermal insulation is less, but it is not as aesthetic as "wet".

If you decide to overlay the walls of the house with bricks, you do not need a frame. In this case, the insulation can be attached directly to the wall. However, you need to leave a small gap for its ventilation.

Stages of mineral wool insulation

Consider how to properly fix the insulation on aerated concrete and decorate it. First of all, you need to carry out vapor barrier work. For these purposes, a special film, roofing felt or foil is suitable. If you have chosen a film, it must be fixed with the rough side to the wall. The outer layer in this case will be glossy. The connection must be overlapped, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape.

Installation on a special profile Option for installing insulation on the basement of the foundation

Now you need to install a frame made of a metal profile or timber. If you have mineral wool with hard edges, the distance between the posts should be 2 cm less than the width of the insulation sheet. It is advisable to lay the slabs in 2 layers, so that the joints of the first layer fall in the middle of the other. If you have a heater of different stiffness, it is better to choose a denser one for the outer layer.

The next step is to fix the waterproofing film. But at this stage, it fits with the smooth side inward. Leave a small gap between the insulation and outer lining. This will allow air to move freely. To do this, you can fix slats 50 mm thick over the mineral wool. Now you can carry out exterior finish any material.

Wet insulation

We will analyze how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete in a “wet” way. Mineral wool under the plaster should be sufficiently dense. It should have the following indicators:

• thermal conductivity 0.044 or less;
• water absorption no more than 70%;
• density 80-120 kg/m².

Install the cornice from below so that it is as a support. It will also help to align the insulation on a plane and horizontally, protect it from insects, bad weather. Coat the mineral wool with glue with a comb. Stick it on the wall like brickwork. When the facade insulation approaches the door and window openings, make sure that the joints of the plates do not fall on the corners of the openings.

After the glue dries, the insulation must be fixed with dowels with a wide cap. The dowel should be in the same plane with the wool. Now secure with reinforcing mesh at the corners of the house, door and window openings. You can apply plaster in at least a day. That is how much it takes for all fixing materials to freeze.

Apply a small layer first mounting plaster. A mounting grid is laid in it, and then another layer of plaster is applied to level the surface. Do not leave the heater open anywhere. Lengthen slopes, window sills and ebbs. It is important that the mineral wool is closed on all sides. After the plaster has dried, the surface is ready for painting.

Bath insulation

The owners of their houses often build steam rooms on the site. Many of them are wondering if it is possible to insulate baths, and how to do it. Among all heaters, mineral wool should be preferred. Although expanded polystyrene and cotton wool have almost the same coefficient of thermal conductivity, rodents can gnaw on polystyrene.

Mineral wool is used to insulate the walls and ceiling of the steam room. Since it is soft enough, it is not used for the floor. Very carefully and carefully, you need to perform hydro and vapor barrier so that the cotton wool does not get wet. Remember that even after insulating the walls, floor and ceiling of the steam room, a significant part of the heat can escape through windows and doors. Make sure openings are properly insulated.

Regardless of what material you choose for insulation, follow the technology of its installation. Subject to all the rules, your room will retain heat well, and the insulation will last a long time.

Did you build or buy own house. Or are you just going to do it, planning your actions in advance. We weighed all the "pros" and "cons" and came to the conclusion that the building should be stone, and the walls were built from a warm and effective material: aerated concrete. It is also cellular concrete, gas silicate, foam concrete. Is there a need to insulate the walls from aerated concrete (“thermal fur coat”), and if so, how to properly perform it?

Video report on the thermal insulation of a house made of aerated concrete with ecowool

Reasons for warming

It seems to be obvious: to make the house warmer, and heating costs to be lower. But you can just increase the thickness of the walls? Rigid mineral wool, most suitable for facade insulation, with a slab thickness of 100 mm will cost (in the central regions of the country) an average of 450 rubles per m 2. In terms of thermal characteristics, this is an analogue of cellular concrete with a thickness of 300 mm. And it will cost already 900 rubles. In fact, if you count the entire structure of external insulation: mineral wool boards, two layers of glue, fasteners, plaster, mesh, the price will rise to 800 rubles per meter and will almost equal the cost of increasing the heat-shielding properties of the wall by increasing the thickness of the masonry. However, under a thicker wall, a more powerful and expensive foundation will have to be built. "Thermoshuba" still comes out more profitable. The most rational in terms of price / energy saving option for middle lane Russia - a foundation 300 mm thick (preferably also insulated); aerated concrete walls 400 mm; insulation 100 mm.

The best option insulation: "thermal fur coat" with the use of rigid mineral wool boards 100 mm thick

There is another important point: durability and the notorious dew point. Our continental climate is not friendly to stone building materials. Moisture, getting into the internal pores of aerated concrete, freezes in frosts, expands and gradually breaks the walls. This applies not only to cellular concrete, but also to bricks and concrete. In our area, a stone house will never last as long as, for example, in Southern Europe. If the Parthenon had been built in Moscow, it would have fallen apart into separate pebbles long ago. To extend the life of the building in order to pass it on to its great-grandchildren, again, external insulation will help.

In heat engineering there is such a thing: "dew point". This place is deep wall material with zero temperature. It is in this zone that condenses maximum amount moisture and the material then freezes, then thaws again. In appearance and touch, dry blocks have an average moisture content of 5-8%. During the process of thawing-freezing, this water gradually but inexorably wears away the stone of our walls. What is the way out?

Aerated concrete is hydrophobic (absorbs moisture) and it is not worth leaving a residential building unplastered for the winter, it will be damp

Remove the dew point from the wall, move it outward. That is, to make sure that aerated concrete is constantly in the zone of positive temperatures, then it will last noticeably longer. Moreover, at correct design the wall will always be dry, which will create a healthy microclimate in the house. The fact that the dew point is completely shifted into the insulation does not matter. First, it is an order of magnitude less susceptible destructive forces freezing water. Secondly, unlike the main wall, insulation is easy to reconstruct.

Choose a method: outside or inside

We have already mentioned that the house should be insulated from the outside. But is it cheaper, easier and faster to do it from the inside? Yes, not so. Yes, no scaffolding required. Yes, you can use cheap soft glass wool and sheathe the walls with drywall by immediately doing interior decoration. Yes, you can work indoors in winter and in bad weather.

Alas, by performing insulation from the inside, we lose a lot. Firstly, we shift the "dew point" not outward, but, on the contrary, into the wall. Thus, we only worsen the mode of operation of aerated concrete, reduce the durability of the building. Secondly, in almost every building there are so-called "cold bridges". In the "warm" walls of cellular blocks, there are also "cold" elements: floor slabs, armored belts, lintels. They are more thermally conductive and cold penetrates into the house through them, and money disappears from the house. Thermal insulation of aerated concrete walls from the outside solves this problem. The house, as in a fur coat, is entirely placed in a heat-insulated shell. Internal insulation- like a Zhabratsky caftan with holes: the belly is warm, and the backside is freezing.

To summarize: internal insulation only partially solves problems, the only true option is external. From the inside, it makes sense to insulate if there is simply no other way out. For example, for some reason it is not possible to change appearance facade.

Rigid mineral wool boards are used for external insulation.

What material is better to use

The eternal question of all developers: mineral wool or polystyrene? Minvata is more expensive, but better. Styrofoam is cheaper, but worse. It's like crayfish on Privoz: large - five rubles, small - three. Let's try to figure out why mineral wool is better and whether it is worth overpaying for it:

• Mineral wool and expanded polystyrene are extremely similar in terms of thermal characteristics. The latter is even slightly more efficient. Mechanical properties and durability are also not much different.
• Mice hate mineral wool and love styrofoam. If there is no finish somewhere on the surface of the polystyrene foam plates, there will immediately arrange a cozy mink for itself and the Mickey Mouse family will settle. But, if the facade is completely covered with plaster, this will not happen.
• Styrofoam is much easier to work with, it is easier to cut, random gaps are easy to eliminate construction foam. Mineral wool slabs are a little more difficult to process and you will have to work with protective gloves, goggles and preferably a respirator.

Styrofoam is cheaper than mineral wool

• Minvata - the material is absolutely fireproof. Expanded polystyrene does not support the flame, it will not work to set it on fire. However, under the influence of fire, it releases poisonous gases, similar to those used by the Germans during the First Imperialist. In fact, if you do not make fires along the facade and do not pour gasoline on the walls, there will be no problems.
• But in terms of vapor permeability, materials differ dramatically. And this is important. Aerated concrete has optimal vapor permeability. The interior of the residential building constantly stands out quite a large number of moisture. Cooking in the kitchen washing machine, home flowers, wet cleaning. Yes, and people themselves through the skin and breath give moisture. Aerated concrete is able to absorb this moisture and bring it out through the pores of the material. The vapor movement vector is always directed from inside to the outside. This phenomenon is called "breathing" of the wall and it has a beneficial effect on the microclimate. By the way, in terms of vapor permeability, cellular concrete is second only to wood and is considered one of the most human-friendly building materials.

Mineral wool fully supports beneficial features aerated concrete. Being even more vapor-permeable, it does not prevent the walls from “breathing”. Styrofoam practically does not pass vapors. The house, insulated with polystyrene foam, is deafly packed, like a “bag” in a plastic bag. Of course, you can ventilate the rooms by simply opening the window. Of course, only 8% of moisture leaves on average through the walls in a “normal” house, the rest is removed by ventilation. However, the humidity of walls insulated with polystyrene still increases by 4-8%. Albeit slightly, but because of this, the thermal characteristics of aerated concrete are reduced and the microclimate of housing is deteriorating.

Mineral wool is preferable for insulating aerated concrete walls

Undoubtedly, mineral wool has a significant advantage and is best material for external wall insulation. Undoubtedly, polystyrene is radically cheaper and also serves good insulation. Conclusion: if the budget allows, it is better to use mineral wool. If "finances sing romances", you can insulate the house with foam.

What should be the thickness of the insulation

It is not uncommon to see how people insulate their houses with thin slabs of 4, 3 and even 2 centimeters. This is a big mistake. Even the use of the most common 5-centimeter plates is not very justified.

The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer it will be in the house and the lower the cost of gas or firewood. Everyone understands this. But not everyone is clear that with a decrease in the thickness of the insulation by as much as 40% (from 5 to 3 cm), the total savings on the structure will be only a ridiculous 10%. After all, the cost of glue, plaster, mesh, fasteners and work is almost independent of the thickness of the insulation and cannot be significantly reduced. That is why there is nothing more stupid than investing in related materials and saving on the main thing - the thickness of the insulation. The optimal, economically justified insulation of aerated concrete walls for the central regions of Russia is a 10 cm slab. It makes no sense to use material less than 5 cm thick.

"Wet" and "dry" insulation

We won't go into detail existing methods insulation. Manufacturers develop complex technologies and create clear, highly detailed and well-illustrated manuals to help performers. They can be obtained from material sellers or downloaded online from the original sites. Let us only mention that the instructions are written for a reason, and the technology must be strictly followed. Also, do not try to replace any materials from complex systems with cheaper ones. For example, it is found that instead of special adhesive and plaster compositions, the cheapest tile adhesive is used for insulation. Yes, it will stick the plates, but the service life and vapor permeability will be significantly lower than that of the “correct” composition.

• Wet system is light

In fact, with the so-called "wet" technology, the facade remains completely dry. The insulation is fixed to the wall with glue and dowels with a large cap. Then two thin leveling layers of plaster are applied, a reinforcing plastic mesh is placed between them. Aerated concrete walls are even, you do not need to cook them, just remove the dust. Finishing - decorative plaster or lungs facing tiles from porous ceramics or concrete.

One of the variants of the "wet" system. You can’t save on dowels, corners and mesh.

• "Wet" system is heavy

If you really want to clad the facade with stone or heavy ceramic slabs, you will have to use "heavy" technology. In this case, the insulation is not glued, but fastened to the wall with powerful hooks, a strong metal mesh is placed on top and the structure is fixed with metal plates. A thick (20-40 mm) layer of cement-sand plaster is carried out along the grid. Now you can place the stone. Such a system is significantly more expensive than the “easy” one.

• "Dry" system

It is also called a ventilated or hinged facade. It involves the construction of a frame outside the facade, metal or wood. In between its elements, a heater is placed - inexpensive soft mineral wool or even cheaper glass wool, polystyrene. Sheathe the frame various materials: more often it is plastic or metal siding, wooden cladding. Hinged facades made of porcelain stoneware or stone slabs, colored glass of the road and for residential buildings are used infrequently. A "dry" facade, if you do not use expensive types of cladding, is cheaper, but less attractive from an aesthetic point of view.

You must remember to leave an air gap of at least 2 cm between the insulation and the siding so that the walls can "breathe"

• brick cladding

The last option is to overlay the facade with bricks. In this case, the frame is not needed, the insulation can be attached directly to the wall. An air gap should be left for ventilation of the insulation. Brick and the inevitable thickening of the foundation will cost a pretty penny.

To brick cladding did not collapse, it is attached to the main wall with anchors

To summarize, we get the following: the optimal solution in terms of price / efficiency / aesthetics for moderate climatic zones Russia - external insulation of aerated concrete walls mineral wool boards 10 cm thick using "wet" technology. Acceptable budget options- "wet" foam facade or polystyrene foam + plastic siding. Properly executed insulation of external walls will reduce heating costs by about half.

aerated concrete- durable and lightweight material that has been used everywhere in construction for more than a decade. Its main advantage is high thermal insulation performance. Yes, the wall is thick. 30 cm according to this indicator corresponds brick wall 60 cm wide. Despite these characteristics, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is a common practice. When should such work be carried out and what materials are used?

Aerated concrete house in Riga, built in 1939

There is no urgent need for insulation of aerated concrete houses, especially when it comes to heat-efficient brands building material. This is due to the cellular structure of the building material, consisting of sand, cement, lime, water and aluminum powder. The components are mixed and placed in an autoclave. There they foam under the influence of corrosion of aluminum powder. The reaction proceeds with the release of oxygen, which forms porosity in the concrete.

The energy efficiency of the material is due to the cellular structure

But still, most often in the harsh conditions of the Russian climate, one cannot do without such a finish. The factors that make the work necessary include:

• Failure to comply with masonry technology, when large seams were formed. They are the so-called cold bridges, on which the thermal resistance is reduced. This also worsens the thermal efficiency of the building.
• Use in the construction of blocks with a density of D500 or more.
• Walls up to 30 cm thick (numbers and 64 cm are called, which makes the material not so energy efficient anymore).
• Filling with gas blocks only load-bearing frames.

Living in regions with a harsh climate is also a condition for insulating aerated concrete walls. An additional layer of thermal insulation will help reduce the thickness of the walls and the load on the foundation, and reduce the cost of building a building.

Several materials are used to insulate a house made of aerated concrete.

After the construction of the building, you must wait at least 2 months

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene (polystyrene);
• penoplex;
• polyurethane foam insulation.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The technology of insulation is also different.

Methods of insulation of aerated concrete walls

Insulation of a house is most often done when it has served for some time, and it turned out that its thermal conductivity is higher than expected. But often such work is carried out at the construction stage. Then do the insulation not immediately. First, completely line up the entire box. Then they wait 2 to 5 months to dry the walls and eliminate excess moisture from blocks.

Insulation of aerated concrete house outside and inside

Insulation of buildings is carried out inside and outside.

Positive aspects of insulation:

• increasing the energy efficiency of the building;
• less thermal energy is required;
• the building is better protected from the heat in summer;
• reduced heating costs in winter;
• sound insulation improves;
• extending the life of the building.

External insulation

The benefit of such insulation is that the dew point moves outward. As a result, the effect of "cold bridges" is minimized. They usually occur at floor slabs, lintels, armored belts. Thermal insulation on inside walls to prevent condensation.

When insulating a house, the main thing is to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. This can be done using special calculators, which contain all the necessary parameters, including the region of residence.

With proper insulation, the dew point moves outward

Warming from the inside

Wall insulation from the inside is less important and often even harmful to structural elements. Usually the work consists in leveling the walls. Often, drywall sheets are used for this. Internal insulation is inconvenient, since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is lost due to the installation of an insulating structure.

This method of thermal insulation is allowed in the following cases:

• the authorities forbade changing the facade of the building;
• behind the wall there is an expansion joint between buildings;
• the room is adjacent to an unheated room that cannot be thermally insulated - for example, an elevator shaft.

Therefore, external insulation is still preferable.

Internal insulation is recommended only in extreme cases.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is produced in sheets, rolls, plates

Mineral wool- one of the most famous and popular heaters. It comes in several types:

• glass;
• stone;
• slag.

Mineral wool is resistant to heat and chemicals. Thermal conductivity of the material - approx. 0.035 W/m*°C. This indicator depends mainly on the density of the material. Over time, its ability to save heat decreases, which is caused by the penetration of moisture.

Advantages of mineral wool insulation:

• fire resistance and the ability to delay the spread of fire;
• vapor permeability (10 times higher than that of expanded polystyrene);
• long service life of the insulation layer (up to 70 years);
• mineral wool in slabs keeps its shape well;
• simplicity and ease of installation;
• decay resistant.

Of the shortcomings, experts note hygroscopicity, or the ability to absorb moisture. Thus, when moistened 2% is lost 10% thermal insulation characteristics.

Important! When insulating buildings with mineral wool, acrylic plasters should not be used. This will cause condensation to form.

When choosing cotton wool, pay attention to rigidity. The higher this indicator, the better the sheet holds its shape. Another important factor is the geometry and direction of the fibers. It is preferable to choose materials with a random direction of the fibers.

Video - Insulation of aerated concrete house

The disadvantage of mineral wool is that the cost of insulation will cost about a third more than when using foam and foam plastic. In addition, the layer of insulation will be large. Builders also point out that the danger of this material to health is not excluded. The insulation contains formaldehyde. This substance is harmful to the body and is considered a carcinogen.

Therefore, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to wear a respirator that will protect the respiratory organs from getting the smallest dust particles into the body. But with proper handling of the heat insulator, there will be no harm to health.

When working with mineral wool, wear a respirator

Rodents can live in insulation layers. Then the thermal insulation properties of the finish will quickly become unusable. To protect the structure from pests, a metal cornice is installed at the bottom of the crate, in the basement of the building. This is also recommended when using other materials.

Mineral wool insulation technology

Step-by-step instructions for warming with mineral wool:

Step 1. The wall is cleaned of dirt, the seams are rubbed with cement, the surface is leveled. If the damage is significant, use plaster. Otherwise, the insulation will not fit tightly, which will increase heat loss.

Grouting

Step 2 A metal tide is installed at the bottom along the perimeter of the building. Fix on the wall wooden bars. The distance between them should be 1-2 centimeters less than the width of the cotton wool sheet. The sheets should lay down quite tightly.

Surface preparation

Step 3 Attach mineral wool to the wall with glue-foam or glue-umbrella dowels. The plates are inserted between the bars, shifting them in relation to the bottom row to make a “checkerboard”.

Fixing the insulation

Step 4 The insulation is covered with a vapor barrier film, which is attached to the brackets, again covered with an adhesive solution.

Covering with vapor barrier film

Step 5 The corners are reinforced with perforated corners.

Reinforcement

Upon completion installation work with mineral wool, a ventilated facade is installed.

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool from the outside

Prices for mineral wool

Mineral wool is usually used only for ventilated facades. The insulation does not have sufficient rigidity to be used under plaster.

When insulated with mineral wool external walls Houses must use vapor barrier films. The coating shields moisture and condensate. At the same time, air penetrates through it, so the walls "breathe".

Expanded polystyrenes

The attitude towards expanded polystyrene, as an insulating agent for walls made of aerated concrete, is ambiguous among builders.

On the one hand, it is a heat-insulating material popular in Russia, which is 98% formed from air. In Europe more 60% produced polystyrene is sent to the thermal insulation of various buildings.

Expanded polystyrene - a popular insulation

There are such advantages of a heater:

• neutrality, absence of secretions harmful substances during operation;
• resistance to rotting, mold formation, but such colonies can form on its surface;
• absence of cases of infection with microorganisms;
• immunity to temperature fluctuations.

The disadvantages of expanded polystyrene include interaction with some chemicals - organic solvents, alcohols, petroleum products. The panel may dissolve upon contact with these products. In addition, expanded polystyrene is subject to combustion.

Table 1. Thermal insulation properties of expanded polystyrene (PSB-S) 12 cm thick in comparison with building materials:

On the other hand, the material has opponents who do not recommend its use on aerated concrete houses. They justify their opinion by the fact that polystyrene foam low level vapor permeability.

Experts note the following. The building codes state that when designing multilayer insulation, the layers must be arranged so that warmer and vapor-permeable materials are outside, and cold and deaf ones are inside. Otherwise, the outer layer of aerated concrete will not have time to dry out over the summer. As a result, moisture gradually accumulates in it, as a result of which the bearing capacity of the wall is gradually lost. Accordingly, the thermal conductivity of the material also increases. Gradually, the dew point moves inward, and probably to the inner wall. Condensation, fungus, etc. will appear on its surface.

These problems do not occur immediately after insulation, but after a few years. For this reason, the use of expanded polystyrene is recommended only in exceptional cases. Opponents of this building material believe that mineral wool is a more suitable material.

In view of these shortcomings, when insulating a house with foam plastic, it is especially important to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation layer. It is also necessary to take care of the proper ventilation of the premises.

Styrofoam insulation technology

Before insulating the walls with foam, the surface is prepared, as when working with mineral wool. Then the surface of the blocks is treated with antiseptic solutions to prevent the formation of mold and mildew. After drying, cover the facade with a primer.

Installation starts from the bottom, and is performed in this order:

1. Apply to the slabs adhesive composition- along the perimeter and in several places on the rest of the square.
2. With effort, each slab is pressed against the aerated concrete wall.
3. After completing the first row, they put it in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Waiting 24 hours.
5. Fasten the sheets with dowels-umbrellas.
6. Perform finishing(strengthening fiberglass mesh, finishing decorative plaster).

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The walls in the room itself are insulated in the same manner as outside.

The dowels used to fasten the panels must be made of plastic and not contain metal parts. Metal during operation is able to create additional "cold bridges". Each sheet will require at least 5 dowels.

Video - How to insulate a house with foam. All stages

When laying it is necessary to pay attention to the connection of plates at the corners of the building. So, in one row the panel protrudes, and the opposite one rests against it, in the other - vice versa.

Sticking foam boards on the corners

Styrofoam Adhesive

Adhesive compositions for working with expanded polystyrene should not include ingredients that can damage the structure of expanded polystyrene - they were discussed above. For fastening use:

• ready-made dry mixes such as Bergauf Isofix Ceresiy CT 85;
• liquid adhesives such as Bitumast;
• mounting aerosol adhesives - for example, TechnoNIKOL 500.

Works should be carried out in dry weather at an air temperature of 7 °C.

For internal works take the corresponding products, which usually cost less.

Penoplex

Penoplex is an extruded polystyrene foam. The material successfully competes with mineral wool and polystyrene. It is as light as polystyrene, but denser, and is able to store heat no worse than mineral wool.

Prices for popular types of foam insulation

Penoplex insulation

Penoplex is denser than polystyrene foam

The heater has the following characteristics:

• retains 30% more heat compared to expanded polystyrene due to its greater density;
• has a lower thermal conductivity in comparison with the analogue;
• has high compressive and tensile strength due to the special structure;
• fireproof due to the addition of flame retardants (ignites only at a temperature of 500 ° C);
• wear-resistant;
• easy to process;
• is relatively inexpensive.

Among the shortcomings, builders note its low ability to adhere. Since it has a high density, it does not interact well with adhesives. For this reason, the material is more often used inside buildings, even when fasteners are used. Since the plates are thin (5-30 mm), the loss of living space (sometimes even small) with such insulation is insignificant.

Working with penoplex

For the installation of foam boards, it is better to use FastFix adhesive foam. You will also need:

• adhesive mixture for plastering;
• fiberglass reinforcing mesh for facade walls;
• perforated corners;
• plaster and paint external works;
• deep penetration primer.

Deep penetration primer prices

Deep penetration primer

Important! For external work, plates with a thickness of 50 mm or more are taken. But builders recommend laying the slabs in 2 layers, which will give 100 mm of foam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam inside the building

Facade insulation is carried out as follows:

1. Clean the wall of old layers of plaster, if any.
2. Wipe the walls with a damp cloth or vacuum.
3. Treated with a facade primer, repeat after the first layer dries.
4. Fix at the bottom metallic profile, which will align the first row of penoplex.
5. A layer of adhesive foam is applied along the edges and several strips in the center.
6. Glue the foam to the wall.
7. Glue the rest of the plates closer to each other.
8. The second and subsequent rows are laid, shifting the vertical seams in a checkerboard pattern.
9. Lay the plates on the slopes.
10. Fix the plates with dowels-umbrellas.

Methods for applying glue to penoplex

For decorative coating first you need to make the surface of the plates rough. To do this, use a grater or sandpaper. Then the facade is treated with a primer that promotes adhesion, also in two layers. The gaps between the plates are filled with foam, which was used for the walls. External corners houses and slopes are formed by perforated corners. The surface is reinforced with mesh. Then make a decorative finish.

PU foam

Another way to insulate facades is to spray polyurethane foam. For aerated concrete blocks, it is recommended to use rigid polyurethane foam with closed cells.

The main advantage is that during spraying there are no gaps between the wall and the insulation, therefore, cold bridges are not formed, and condensate does not settle. After applying the product, a seamless coating is formed, which improves the quality of the thermal insulation coating.

Economically, this method is less profitable, since the cost of thermal insulation increases by at least 1.2 times compared to other materials. But at the same time, it is easier to work with, since no fasteners are required. The service life of such a heater is about 30 years old.

The most popular method of spraying. Although sheets with tongue-and-groove locks and thermal panels with tiles are also used for insulation.

PU foam layer

Material advantages:

• low density, therefore no additional load on the structure is created;
• high adhesion, so you can not use auxiliary products and structures - primer, frame;
• does not decompose and does not rot;
• does not emit harmful substances;
• warranty period of operation - over 20 years;
• thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.024 W/m*°C.

Polyurethane is obtained by mixing a polyol and a polyisocyanate in special installations. If spraying on the facade is planned, then the components are mixed in the spray chamber. Foaming only takes 10–60 seconds.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before using a particular material, it is necessary to conduct careful calculations, to study the characteristics of the materials. After all, making rash decisions will shorten the life of the building and lead to additional energy costs.