The correct alternation of growing plants in your beds. Crop rotation of vegetable crops: what, then plant in the garden

The alternation of vegetables with potatoes, gourds is an effective system for increasing the quantity and quality of fruits and herbs. A full crop rotation in the garden also allows you to perform several other important tasks. There is an opportunity to deal more effectively with diseases and pests of plants, to take better care of soil fertility.

An annual change is considered optimal. annual plants in the field and in the garden. Such a rotation is carried out according to certain rules, taking into account the botanical affiliation of plants, the requirements for light, soil, and irrigation. If the plot area is only a few acres of land, then in this case it is possible to organize a crop rotation. This is one of the simple and available ways increase yields, save on pesticides.

One of the purposes of such a rotation is the most obvious. The plant changes and the pests that attacked the previous crop are left without food, their development cycle is interrupted. The first to die are microscopic pathogens, larvae of insect pests.

Crop rotation in the garden: basic rules

The plant rotation scheme must take into account the most important requirements of agricultural technology. The basic rules of crop rotation are not to place the same species and varieties on the same plot for 2-3 seasons. The sunflower is especially depleting the earth. "Flower of the Sun" is not recommended to be grown in the same area for 5-7 years.

Restoration of the soil depleted by a powerful plant is required. Leave the plot fallow, or sow alfalfa, vetch or sainfoin. Then they dig up the soil along with leguminous plants.

Potatoes consume a certain set of nutrients from the soil. Representatives of the nightshade families, for example, tomatoes or eggplants planted next year after potatoes, will not get the macro and microelements they need. But the Colorado potato beetle will have the opportunity to develop further. The insect pest prefers nightshades to all other botanical families.

Crop rotation table at their summer cottage

The main field, vegetable, melon crops are combined into compatibility groups. By choosing specific names of vegetables, they determine how many beds or plots in the garden will be required. They assign numbers to them, draw up a table or diagram in which they indicate in advance what and on which bed should be planted.

In this work, a dacha plan is used, which should show the placement of trees, berry bushes, flower beds and plots for vegetables. The following year, annuals and some biennials are not placed again in the same places.

It must be borne in mind that cabbage, as well as tomatoes, celery, cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins need more nitrogen in the soil. Moderate needs for radishes, spinach, onions, potatoes, carrots, beets, kohlrabi. Legumes and herbs need even less nitrogen.

Vegetable crop rotation table in the garden, compiled taking into account the biological characteristics of vegetables:

Vegetables from plot No. 3 are grown next year in the first plot. The crops from the first plot should grow in the second plot.

Placement of vegetables on 8 plots in areas where gourds grow:

There are no perennials in the crop rotation scheme or table. They grow in the same place for several years. They are usually placed around the perimeter or at the end of the plot so that they do not obscure other crops.

Even a few fruit trees provide wind protection and attract pollinators. Among the trees in the garden there are small areas where you can grow lettuce, dill, asparagus, parsley and garlic.

The scheme of crop rotation of vegetable crops in the garden

A drawing indicating the names of the vegetables grown is prepared in winter, and in the spring, before planting, changes and additions are made, but taking into account the basic requirements. Any rotation scheme should contain a list of plants for each plot. Various icons in the figure show the placement of vegetables, herbs, herbs.

Crop rotation scheme:

• The first plot: potatoes compacted with radishes, carrots, onions and parsley.
• Second plot: green pea, zucchini, pumpkin, sweet corn packed with beans, tomatoes and Bell pepper.
• The third plot: white cabbage, compacted with cucumbers, cauliflower.

If the number of ridges allows, then another crop rotation scheme for vegetable crops is used:

Bed number 1: radish, early varieties white cabbage.

No. 2: green peas, leafy greens.

No. 3: potatoes (varieties different terms ripening), onions after harvesting early potatoes.

No. 4: carrots, beetroot, radish.

No. 5: tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplant.

No. 6: zucchini, cucumbers.

No. 7: beans, beans, onions, garlic.

There are no ideal schemes, rotation, namely, what, after which it can be planted, largely depends on the size of the garden, the climate of the area, the type of soil and other conditions. An important factor is the preferences of the owner of the cottage.

Use of mixed landings

Compactors allow you to expand the list of plants for small areas summer cottages. In a small garden between rows of potato bushes, you can plant radishes. Other vegetables are not suitable due to the same requirements for conditions, ripening and harvesting.

Tight fit - good way weed control.

Corn stalks are a strong support for weak shoots of curly beans. When planting, you can place the seeds of two different plants in one hole. Beans with wide leaves close the soil around the corn stalk, suppress weeds.

White cabbage can be compacted with cucumbers. The whips of the "companion" will find protection from the scorching sun under the cabbage. Cucumbers will help protect the soil under the cruciferous plant from weeds.

What crops can be planted in the neighborhood

Asparagus and tomatoes planted nearby get along well. Bush beans fit the neighborhood on the same bed with potatoes, corn, celery. There are no problems with the placement of cabbage. Representatives of this genus get along well with beets, cucumbers, celery, potatoes, onions. Carrots are considered an unpretentious neighbor in the garden. Nearby you can grow tomatoes, onions, legumes.

Corn perfectly coexists with pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, potatoes, peas. Onions fit a plot next to carrots, beets, tomatoes. Tomatoes prefer carrots, parsley, asparagus as neighbors.

What can not be planted nearby

Beans do not get along well with onions and beets. Dill and parsley should not be grown near carrots. Cucumbers and peas do not like the neighborhood with potatoes. Away from each other, you need to grow representatives of the nightshade family: potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants.

The alternation of plants in the garden is necessary to preserve the fertility and structure of the soil, to prevent its destruction when growing the same crops. The correct crop rotation in the garden involves such a rotation in which the next year the same area will be set aside for a plant with opposite biological features and requirements.

Vegetables that are grown for the sake of tubers, bulbs or root crops, next year must be replaced with cucumbers, lettuce, tomatoes, zucchini.

To obtain sustainable yields, it is necessary to alternate the plant species on the plots every year. In addition, you need to know the characteristics of each variety, whether the natural conditions and the microclimate of the site suit them. The rotation of vegetables must be supported by concern for soil fertility and plant protection.

The site, which has just been received and developed, is first landscaped and cultivated. If the soil is excessively wet, then it is recommended to make ridges in the garden, leaving grooves between them to drain water. Acidic substrates need liming to normalize the pH. Light sandy soils are “weighted” with peat and clay. Infertile soils are enriched: when digging, humus is added, complex fertilizer containing all the batteries.

Growing green manure (green manure) on one of the plots contributes to the accumulation of available nitrogen, eliminating the need to apply saltpeter. The following year, the plot is taken away for vegetables that need high content nitrogen in the soil.

Experienced vegetable growers think over the fruit change for years to come.

Crop rotation necessary condition to collect a high and high-quality crop of vegetables, and for this, in fact, every summer resident and work on his land. Few observe it, often complaining about small size vegetable garden. Do not despair, a small plot of land is not a problem, arm yourself with a sheet of paper and a pencil, make a list of crops for planting.

Most plants in the same place cannot be grown several years in a row. The exceptions are tomatoes, beans, potatoes and strawberries. Cultures of the same family are also unacceptable to grow one after another. The vegetable is returned to its original place only after 3-4 years. An exception is if cultures are alternated with.

Crop rotation is the rotation of crops to improve soil fertility and protect plants from pests and diseases.

Before you begin to sow the garden, draw a diagram of the beds on paper. Make a list of vegetables and herbs. Decide on the number of beds and be sure to make a “Year” column (2017, 2018, 2019, 2020…).

At the dacha, the crop rotation system allows you to:

• Let the soil rest. Plants growing annually in one place draw certain nutrients from the soil, over time they become less and gradual depletion begins, the crop is reduced. When you replace one crop with another, while applying top dressing, soil resources are restored, while giving away other nutrients.
• Destroy pests naturally. Behind holiday season pests and pathogens characteristic of plants appear in the soil. By alternating vegetable crops of different families, these pests and diseases will not be dangerous, and in a few years there will be no trace of them at all. So, growing onions for several years in a row in one place, nematodes appear in the soil, and cabbage has a disease.
• Loosen the soil and enrich with trace elements. A culture with long roots (buckwheat, rapeseed) will make dense soil looser, and will also be able to get phosphorus, potassium, calcium to the surface from the depths, so planting a crop with small roots in the same place next season will not require additional feeding of that or other micronutrient.
• Legumes (beans, peas) enrich the soil with useful fertilizer - nitrogen. It is formed and accumulates in the nodules of plants, which are left in the soil when cutting the tops. By the way, clover will enrich the soil with nitrogen 2.5 times more than peas, and alfalfa 5 times.
• Garlic, onions and carrots are best planted after pumpkin, tomatoes, cabbage or potatoes, i.e. where the weeds will be minimal amount. On well-cultivated soil with a rich content of micro and macro elements, it is better to plant tomatoes, cucumbers, celery, and cabbage. These are the vegetable crops that are pulled from the soil useful material V in large numbers. And in beds with a small amount of compost, it is better to plant legumes and root crops.

The crops to be replaced must not be of the same family.

Alternating vegetables of different families every year, you will already create the simplest circuit crop rotation, thereby increasing productivity. Let's give an example of zoning crops in a small area:

If it is difficult to maintain a planting plan, then in order not to get confused, act according to the principle of an annual change of beds with roots (root crops) to a bed of inches, then what grows on the surface of the soil.

In a crop rotation, crops can be combined, taking into account the ripening period. Plant cucumbers in 2 rows at a distance of 50 cm between them, and in the aisle and along the edges of the beds dill in a single line.

Corn is not a demanding crop and does not participate in the crop rotation system; it is a neutral predecessor to other vegetables. When planting vegetables, keep in mind what accumulates under corn.

In a small area, it is quite difficult to observe crop rotation in full, therefore good decision will become autumn sowing.

Crop rotation table in the country

Sometimes plants year after year do not give the harvest that we expect from them, they “overgrow” with diseases, lose their taste.

We apply tons of fertilizer, but to no avail. All the fault may be non-compliance with the rules of crop rotation!

Ideally, crop rotation should be annual and continuous, otherwise the so-called soil fatigue will occur on your site, which is always combined with the accumulation of pests and diseases, toxins and reduced fertility.

Let's take a common potato.

If you plant it every year in the same place, the army of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles, will inevitably increase. The same applies to other cultures: onion fly, carrot fleas, nematodes - from year to year there will be more and more of these misfortunes, because they can always feast on their favorite "treat" in their usual place.

Toxins also accumulate in the soil - they are secreted by the root system of vegetables (leaders are cucumbers, tomatoes, carrots and cabbage).

Sometimes just a couple of years of planting on the site of the same plant leads to severe depletion of the land. Not all elements, of course, but only those that are most needed by a particular culture. Getting to the site again and again, the plant will feel their acute shortage and starve, losing the crop.

All these troubles can be easily avoided by knowing a few simple rules crop rotation.

1. Botanical crop rotation rule

Do not plant related crops in the same place year after year. They are affected by the same diseases and pests, suffer from similar root toxins. Nutrition and the need for trace elements are also almost identical.

2. The rule of time

Do not return the vegetable to its original site for a longer time. Usually, plants can be planted in the same place after 3 years, some - after 5 years (carrots, beets), and there are generally "crops of the same garden" that are best planted in the same place no earlier than after 7 years, for example, cabbage.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: table

The use of crop rotation - the experience of summer residents and gardeners

Neighbors and predecessors are extremely important for any garden crop. People can still somehow agree among themselves, but plants will suffer if their likes and dislikes are not taken into account.

I am a proponent of organic farming. Of course, you can not refuse mineral fertilizers, you just need to remember that their excess leads to a decrease in the quality of the crop and causes the death of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. From organics I use manure, compost, ash, bird droppings and, of course, green manure. Manure - rotted and in liquid dressings I dilute the litter with water. Ash contains 30 trace elements and reduces the acidity of the soil, I apply it both to the soil and to compost heaps, of which we have two.

Green manures enrich the soil with organic matter, nitrogen, microelements, and their roots loosen the soil and improve its structure. I cut them off with a flat cutter and leave them in the garden as mulch or embed them in the soil by 2-3 cm. In order for the soil to recover faster and become more fertile, I advise you to change green manure every year. D I only water warm water, and until mid-summer, only snow or rain, as well as green fertilizer.

I prefer to grow vegetables in high beds, the benefits of which have been said a lot on the pages of our magazine. And me in 2006 high beds generally saved the harvest: a heavy downpour passed, and an avalanche went from the city to our plots (they are lower than the city streets) dirty water with stones, sweeping away everything in its path. The photo shows that my beds remained intact.

A little about digging the soil: I completely agree with V.P. Verbitsky that you need to dig shallowly, especially those beds where vegetables with a long root crop (carrots, daikon, parsley, etc.) will be sown. Thanks to our magazine, I have been familiar with the shovel with an emphasis since 2010.

In the crop rotation diagram, the arrow shows the movement of each plant from one field to the next. To do this, divide your entire sown area into five fields. For example, field 1 - cucumbers, zucchini are planted from the 1st bed. This is the 1st year. In the 2nd year, tomatoes and peppers are planted; on the 3rd - carrots, onions; on the 4th - potatoes; on the 5th - cabbage. Thus, each plant returns to its place after five years.

Plant groups:

1 - cucumbers, zucchini, greens, legumes, beets;

2 - white cabbage, cauliflower;

3 - potatoes;

4 - carrots, onions, parsley, onions on a feather;

5 - tomatoes, eggplants, peppers.

Groups can be supplemented with other cultures if they are compatible and useful to each other as predecessors.

I often have to deal with the careless attitude of some landowners to crop rotation in my line of duty. Naturally, I won’t be able to explain the importance to everyone, but I can write about it so that the inhabitants of towns, villages and villages can read and draw conclusions (especially for the younger generation without agricultural experience).

I'll start with the worst, namely the consequences of non-compliance with crop rotation.

Having no experience, but having a desire to grow with my own hands vegetables and fruits, we often make gross mistakes. And this happens in most cases like this: you drew a plan on paper and made it a reality, that is, you transferred it to the ground. You would not want to change anything at all, because, as it seems to you, the ideal place for potatoes, cucumbers or tomatoes was found. For several years in a row you work tirelessly, water, fertilize, and the harvest, instead of increasing, becomes smaller and smaller every year. Isn't it embarrassing?

And all because it is impossible to successfully grow the same crops in the same place. The soil is depleted over time, the number of pathogens and pests in the soil increases, even epidemic outbreaks occur. That is why crop rotation cannot be ignored.

Each group of vegetables, and there are 4 in total, has its own soil requirements, and the task of the grower is to correctly plan the planting.

The first group includes demanding vegetables that need to be provided with a large amount of nutrients. To do this, annually in the spring and then regularly during the growing season, complex mineral fertilizers and compost. Cabbage, pumpkin and Compositae crops are considered demanding.

The second group is medium-demanding crops. These include flowers such as calendula, marigold, nasturtium, purslane. Also, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, peppers, physalis are considered medium-demanding. It is enough to feed these crops once at the beginning of the season and also feed once a month.

Onion, umbrella, haze: parsley, bush beans, onions, basil, tarragon, marjoram, savory, mint, parsley, parsnips, as well as beets, chard and carrots will grow well without additional feeding.

The fourth group includes legumes, which accumulate nitrogen from the air. Due to this property, they improve the structure of the soil, since the content of humus and beneficial microorganisms in it increases.

The landing scheme might look something like this:

Legumes Demanding crops Undemanding crops Medium demanding crops.

The site is divided into 4 parts, each of which is planted with one of the groups of crops at your discretion. In the second year, the plantings shift, for example, clockwise, as a result, after 4 years, each group will visit each of the sites.

And do not be embarrassed that the flowers will be together with vegetables, but your soil will not be threatened with depletion.

It is IMPORTANT that plants belonging to the same family do not replace each other.

Irina GURYEVA, Jr. scientific collaborator VNII horticulture them. I. V. Michurina

Crop rotation- the correct alternation of fruit and berry and vegetable crops in a certain area. The main tasks of this process:

• Preservation of soil fertility;
• Increased yield;
• Reducing the likelihood of diseases of crops.

In order for horticultural crops to please with their harvest from year to year and not get sick, you need to adhere to the crop rotation scheme.

Let's explain in more detail. According to the rules of botany, it is impossible to grow a plant every year in the same place. This is due to a number of reasons.

Firstly, any crop, whether vegetable or berry, tends to take certain microelements from the soil. If you do not follow the rules of crop rotation, then the land will be depleted and lose its fertile properties.

Secondly, when growing a certain vegetable crop in the same area, pests appear in the soil, which, when re-planted, will damage it.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops

Observations have shown that the correct plant rotation allows even distribution of microelements in the soil.

Today there is list, which determines the order of planting, both vegetable and berry crops.

Best and worst predecessors:

• Onion (bulb), garlic. Do not plant after carrots. Good predecessors for these crops are: cabbage (early or cauliflower variety), zucchini, potatoes (early), pumpkins, legumes (beans and peas)
• Carrot and parsley. They grow well after any varieties of cabbage, greens (except lettuce), potatoes. You can not place a bed where carrots and parsley have already grown for 2-3 years
• Cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins. These crops are usually planted after color or early cabbage, onion, garlic. Also, such predecessors as potatoes, beets, peas and greens (lettuce, dill) are not forbidden. It is not recommended to plant the above vegetables from the pumpkin family, where cabbage (late varieties), carrots, and tomatoes grew
• Cabbage, radish, turnip. For the listed vegetable crops, it is customary to allocate a new bed every year. You can not plant 2 years in a row in the same place. Consider good predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, onions. It is permissible to plant in the place where there used to be beans, peas, carrots and beets
• Tomatoes. It is also desirable to plant tomatoes in a new place each time. Well, this culture grows after cucumbers, turnips, cauliflower, greens. It is forbidden to plant tomatoes where potatoes used to grow
• Potato. Excellent harvest potatoes can be harvested if planted after legumes and grains, cabbages, pumpkins, cucumbers, beets and greens. Tomatoes are bad predecessors. It is very important not to place potatoes in the same place for 2 years in a row, in order to prevent the Colorado potato beetle.

• Beet. In the list of excellent predecessors: cucumbers, potatoes (early) and greens. It is also allowed to plant beets after cabbage (cauliflower or early variety), onions, tomatoes and carrots. It has been noticed that beets grow poorly and get sick if they are planted in the place where they grew last season.
• Eggplant. You can safely plant after cucumbers, onions, cabbage early ripe varieties, perennial herbs (schisandra, mint, etc.). Worst predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. (By the way, about how to plant eggplant seedlings, read
• Corn. The plant is unpretentious. It is not demanding of predecessors. Grows well in place of legumes, but can be sown after any other crop
• Green crops (, mustard, lettuce, radish, sorrel, etc.). They bring a good harvest after legumes, cabbage (early and cauliflower), cucumbers, onions and garlic. Bad predecessors are carrots and late varieties of cabbage.

Crop rotation of fruit and berry crops

When growing fruit crops crop rotation rules are not cancelled.

Here, too, one should try to alternate subsequence planting plants:

Crop rotation of flower crops

It is noteworthy that the crop rotation includes flower cultures.

Some varieties of flowers are usually planted after vegetables, others are not demanding at all and can grow well in one permanent place:

Crop rotation scheme at their summer cottage

For successful cultivation in the summer cottage of vegetable and fruit crops, experienced gardeners recommend drawing up your own plan for several years ahead crop rotation scheme.

• The very first thing to do is to mentally divide the site into four sectors(in no particular order)
• In the first potatoes should be planted, as well as vegetable crops sensitive to frost (zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.)
• Second sector can be taken for any root crops (carrots, radishes, beets, etc.)
• It is permissible to place cruciferous crops on the third site ( different types cabbage), and on the fourth legumes, onions and garlic.

Good to know! Vegetable crops can be returned to their original planting site after about 4-5 years (which is why you need to divide the site into four sectors)

1 year

Sector number 1. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost (tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc.);
Sector number 2. Root vegetables (carrots, beets, etc.);
Sector number 3. Cruciferous (cabbage, lettuce, etc.);
Sector number 4. Onion, garlic, legumes (peas, beans, etc.).

2 year

Sector number 1. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 2. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector number 3. Roots;
Sector number 4. Cruciferous.

Sector number 1. cruciferous;
Sector number 2. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 3. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well;
Sector number 4. Roots.

4 year

Sector number 1. Roots;
Sector number 2. cruciferous;
Sector number 3. Onions, garlic, legumes;
Sector number 4. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well.

It is believed that due to the change of cultures, personal plot not afraid of any pests and diseases. Even if harmful insects appear, they will not cause much damage to the next crop.

Detailed information how to organize a crop rotation in a summer cottage, you can see in this video.

Crop rotation is the correct alternation of fruit and berry and vegetable crops in a certain area.

The main objectives of this process: Preservation of soil fertility; Increased yield; Reducing the likelihood of diseases of crops. In order for horticultural crops to please with their harvest from year to year and not get sick, you need to adhere to the crop rotation scheme. Let's explain in more detail. According to the rules of botany, it is impossible to grow a plant every year in the same place. This is due to a number of reasons.

Firstly, any crop, whether vegetable or berry, tends to take certain microelements from the soil. If you do not follow the rules of crop rotation, then the land will be depleted and lose its fertile properties.

Secondly, when growing a certain vegetable crop in the same area, pests appear in the soil, which, when re-planted, will damage it.

Observations have shown that the correct alternation of plants allows you to evenly distribute the trace elements in the soil. To date, there is a list that determines the order of planting, both vegetable and berry crops.

Best and worst predecessors:

Onion (bulb), garlic. Do not plant after carrots. Good predecessors for these crops are: cucumbers, cabbage (early or cauliflower variety), zucchini, potatoes (early), pumpkins, legumes (beans and peas)

Carrot and parsley. They grow well after any varieties of cabbage, greens (except lettuce), potatoes. You can not place a bed where carrots and parsley have already grown for 2-3 years

Cucumbers, zucchini and pumpkins. These crops are usually planted after cauliflower or early cabbage, onions, garlic. Also, such predecessors as potatoes, beets, peas and greens (lettuce, dill) are not forbidden. It is not recommended to plant the above vegetables from the pumpkin family, where cabbage (late varieties), carrots, and tomatoes grew

Cabbage, radish, turnip. For the listed vegetable crops, it is customary to allocate a new bed every year. You can not plant 2 years in a row in the same place. Consider good predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, onions. It is permissible to plant in the place where there used to be beans, peas, carrots and beets

Tomatoes. It is also desirable to plant tomatoes in a new place each time. Well, this culture grows after cucumbers, turnips, cauliflower, greens. It is forbidden to plant tomatoes where potatoes used to grow

Potato. An excellent crop of potatoes can be harvested if planted after legumes and grains, cabbage, pumpkin, cucumbers, beets and greens. Tomatoes are bad predecessors. It is very important not to place potatoes in the same place for 2 years in a row, in order to prevent the Colorado potato beetle.

Beet. In the list of excellent predecessors: cucumbers, potatoes (early) and greens. It is also allowed to plant beets after cabbage (cauliflower or early variety), onions, tomatoes and carrots. It has been noticed that beets grow poorly and get sick if they are planted in the place where they grew last season.

eggplant. You can safely plant after cucumbers, onions, early-ripening cabbage varieties, perennial herbs (lemongrass, mint, etc.). Worst predecessors: potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. (By the way, read about how to plant eggplant seedlings here.)

Corn. The plant is unpretentious. It is not demanding of predecessors. Grows well in place of legumes, but can be sown after any other crop

Green crops (dill, mustard, lettuce, radish, sorrel, etc.). They bring a good harvest after legumes, cabbage (early and cauliflower), cucumbers, onions and garlic. Bad predecessors are carrots and late varieties of cabbage.

Crop rotation of fruit and berry crops

When growing fruit and berry crops, crop rotation rules are not canceled. Here you should also try to alternate the sequence of planting plants:

Strawberry wild-strawberry. The berry takes root well and bears fruit after garlic and onions, carrots, beets, legumes, oats, rye and dill. In the list of bad predecessors: tomatoes, cucumbers, all varieties of cabbage, potatoes, peppers and eggplants

Raspberries. Brings good harvest if planted after legumes, cucumbers and cucurbits. Eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and strawberries are plants after which raspberries can develop poorly and often get sick. To get a good harvest of raspberries, it is important not only to choose good predecessors, but also to know the features of planting this crop. You can read more about planting raspberries here.

Gourds (watermelon, melon). Among the best predecessors are perennial herbs(lemongrass, mint, etc.), late varieties of cabbage, potatoes, legumes, corn. You should not place gourds after zucchini, sunflowers, cucumbers.

Crop rotation of flower crops

It is noteworthy that flower crops are also included in the crop rotation. Some varieties of flowers are usually planted after vegetables, others are not demanding at all and can grow well in one permanent place:

tulips. The list of good predecessors is not so small. It includes any flower and vegetable crops. It is not recommended to plant tulips in the place where bulbous (onions, garlic) or nightshade crops, for example, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, grew before.

Aster- very fastidious flower culture. It grows well after calendula, but it is believed that it is better to plant it where nothing has grown before. You can return the flower to its original planting site after five years. To grow aster flowers in your area, you need certain knowledge about the features of planting and caring for this crop. To start the flowering period earlier, experienced gardeners it is advised to grow asters in seedlings.

Gladiolus. You can safely plant after strawberries, tomatoes, garlic, legumes. Also among the acceptable predecessors are some varieties of flowers, such as zinnia or dahlias. You can not prepare a flower bed for gladioli in the place where they grew different kind root crops, as well as cruciferous crops (cabbage, radish, mustard, etc.).

Crop rotation scheme at their summer cottage

Crop rotation scheme

For the successful cultivation of vegetable and fruit and berry crops in a summer cottage, experienced gardeners recommend drawing up their crop rotation scheme for several years ahead.

Basic recommendations for drawing up a crop rotation scheme: The very first thing to do is to mentally divide the plot into four sectors (in random order) Potatoes should be planted in the first, as well as vegetable crops that are sensitive to frost (zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.). ) The second sector can be taken for any root crops (carrots, radishes, beets, etc.) It is permissible to place cruciferous crops (different types of cabbage) on the third site, and legumes, onions and garlic on the fourth. Good to know! Vegetable crops can be returned to their original planting site after about 4-5 years (which is why you need to divide the site into four sectors)

1 year Sector number 1. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost (tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc.); Sector number 2. Root vegetables (carrots, beets, etc.); Sector number 3. Cruciferous (cabbage, lettuce, etc.); Sector number 4. Onions, garlic, legumes (peas, beans, etc.).

2 year Sector number 1. Onions, garlic, legumes; Sector number 2. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well; Sector number 3. Roots; Sector number 4. Cruciferous.

3 year Sector number 1. cruciferous; Sector number 2. Onions, garlic, legumes; Sector number 3. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well; Sector number 4. Roots.

4 year Sector number 1. Roots; Sector number 2. cruciferous; Sector number 3. Onions, garlic, legumes; Sector number 4. Potatoes, vegetables that do not tolerate frost well. It is believed that due to the change of cultures, no pests and diseases are afraid of the personal plot. Even if harmful insects appear, they will not cause much damage to the next crop.