The best time for planting fruit trees is spring; woody plants have a weak root system. When dug up, it loses the bulk of the small suction roots and therefore cannot supply the aerial part of the plant with plenty of water.

And evaporation from the surface of the branches, while the temperature is positive, is very active. In winter, in addition to this, icy winds greatly dry out young tender plants. Therefore, it is better to store seedlings of woody plants until spring in special storage facilities or in a digging area. Although, as you know, there are no rules without exceptions. If the planting is not delayed and the frost is still far away, and the autumn is warm, the planted plants will have time to take root in a new place, overwinter well and begin their first growing season in your garden in early spring.

It’s better to prepare landing pits in the fall, but if it happened that you didn’t have time, try to cook them in the spring, at least a week or two before planting. In accordance with the plan, mark the planting sites with pegs. Do this along the cord so that it is both beautiful and comfortable. The simplest way planting - in a planting pit, the size of which for an apple tree is as follows: depth 60 cm, width up to 1 m.

Fold the soil of the fertile upper horizon on one side of the pit, and the lower one on the other. You can generally not use the ground from below if you find a replacement for it. When you dig a hole - do not forget to choose the roots of perennial weeds. Mix the excavated earth with fertilizers and pour back: down - the top, and on top - the bottom layer. Backfill 10 cm above soil level. Do not tamp or compact. Let the shrinkage come naturally.

It is advisable to dig planting holes for single plants or when the distances between adjacent trees are large enough (more than 3 m). With a thickened placement of plants, dig a continuous trench along the entire row - there will be more space for the roots. The depth of the trench, the width and the order of excavation and loading of the earth, as in the case of digging holes.

Fill the landing hole. Organic fertilizers in all cases will not be superfluous. Under each apple tree, add 30-40 kg of rotted manure, ripened compost or humus and 5-6 cups wood ash. Be careful with mineral fertilizers. Do not add nitrogen at all when planting. Superphosphate and potassium sulfate can give one and a half glasses. Alone mineral fertilizers without organic do not contribute. They will be ineffective, and if there are a lot of them, they will inhibit the growth of roots.

Inspect plants carefully before planting. Found rotten, severely dried and damaged roots - cut them to healthy tissues. If you notice growths of root cancer on individual roots, remove them. If there are a lot of growths or they are located on the root collar, the plants are not suitable for planting. Small overgrown roots, in whatever condition they may be, do not touch. If the plants or only the roots seem to be dried out, dip them in a container of water for a day or two. After this, the bark will become elastic, glossy - everything is in order, it will remain wrinkled - the tree is not suitable for planting.

When planting, do not leave exposed roots in the sun and wind, even for a few minutes.. You can dip the roots in a clay or earthen mash, as the creamy mixture of clay, earth and water is called, but you don’t have to do this. Neither great benefit, there will be no harm from such an operation. But if you have already dipped it, plant it right away, otherwise the clay will quickly dry out and will no longer protect the roots, but draw water out of them.

After the soil in the planting pits or in the trenches has settled, you can start planting. In the places planned for planting, dig only such holes in which you can freely place the roots. After moving 10-12 cm from the cord stretched through the centers of the planting holes or along the trenches, drive in the stakes near the landing sites. The length of the stake is about 1.5 m. It should be 0.6-0.7 m above the soil surface. Then tie a young apple tree to the stake. It is better to plant plants together. One will throw earth on the roots and compact it from time to time. The other is to hold the seedling, make sure that it does not deviate from the vertical, and shake it slightly as the hole is filled. Place the seedling on the mound near the stake. The root neck (do not confuse it with the grafting site) should initially be slightly below the soil level. Then, gently shaking the plant and pulling it up, which is necessary to fill the voids between the roots, rise to right level. When compacting the earth, place your foot along the radius from the trunk to the periphery of the pit. Finish filling the hole, compact the soil again and fill the mound at the very stem. Place the shovel with an edge along the radius from the stem to the edge of the pit. Moving around the tree, rake the soil to the periphery. You get a comfortable beautiful hole, limited by a fairly high, even roller. Now check again if the tree is planted correctly. The root neck should be 5-7 cm above the soil level. When the soil settles and compacts, the root collar will be just right. Pour 1.5-2 buckets of water into each well, but not immediately - give it time to soak. Watering is necessary to improve the contact of the roots with the soil, so water even when it rains. If the roots are exposed somewhere during watering, sprinkle the earth. Then mulch the hole with peat, compost or, at worst, dry soil from the row spacing. Tie the tree to the stake. Knit in a figure eight not tight, but so that the tree holds.

Provide the seedling with decent care, and very soon you will enjoy fragrant fruits!

Principles of organic farming in practice

For seven years now, following the commandments of N. I. Kurdyumov, B. A. Bublik, N. Zhirmunskaya, Yu. I. Slashchinin, I have adhered to the principles of organic farming and "do not dig a garden." And was not disappointed!

I divided my plot of six acres concrete path into two equal parts: south- garden, northern- garden. Along the south fence- raspberries on trellises in three rows.

The garden was divided into sixteen stationary beds 1-1.2 m wide, and the beds are oblique- at an angle of 120° (or 60°) to the center track. I made furrows (more precisely, paths) between the beds 30-40 cm wide, not lower, but in some places even higher than the beds themselves.

Fenced the beds flat slate, tiles, boards. Paths covered with sawdust and chopped branches different trees. Branches go especially well on paths walnut, chopped with a hatchet into pieces 1-3 cm long.

I made exactly the same beds and paths in the garden part of the site. Only the beds turned out to be wider (up to 2 m) due to fruit trees.

Garden- garden ... This is conditional, since 8 gooseberry bushes are planted in one row on one garden bed, on the other garden- 11 bushes of honeysuckle of seven varieties, on the third- 12 columnar apple trees of six varieties, on the fourth- 10 columnar pears. Another garden bed- two-plane grape trellis. And five garden beds equipped with permanent wire trellises for cucumbers, tomatoes, cowpeas, curly beans.

Two garden beds are occupied by two-plane grape trellises. On the remaining garden beds (ten of them) placed fruit trees And berry bushes. On the garden beds, between the trees, I grow vegetables and green crops. In the near-stem circles, I grow catnip, oregano, peppermint and field; anise lofant grows under unabi and sea buckthorn, and under an old pear- echinacea purpurea. In spring, I plant dwarf marigolds, nasturtium, beans, a golden mustache (fragrant collision) and some houseplants in empty places in near-trunk circles.

Fruit, everything in a row, strongly wildebeest, pinch and form cup-shaped crowns. I've been doing this all summer. Therefore, I do not have trees higher than two meters. Unabi shrubs and Daurian sea buckthorn are higher than fruit-bearing apple and pear trees. And he brought two gooseberry bushes in a standard form to a height of two meters.

On the grape trellis brought non-covering varieties of grapes. Under the grape trellis, located from south to north, I plant beets, dill, spinach, chard, onions, asters, sorrel.

And in the fall of 2005, I planted black currants under grapes. This is not in the recommendations of N. I. Kurdyumov. Apparently, the mutual influence of grapes and currants has not been studied. In such cases, I recall one of the orders of Peter I: "Do not keep the charter like a blank wall, because the rules are written there, but there are no times and cases."

And such a planting of blackcurrant, in my opinion, is very good: in the morning the sun illuminates the currant bushes, in the midday heat they are covered with grapes, and in the evening- again under the sun. I do not use chemistry: currant bushes are planted with garlic and winter onions, the soil is thickly mulched with rice husks all year round.

One question remains: how will summer watering currants for grapes?

Once in July, I watered very well, with top dressing, one grape bush on the arbor, as a result, I lost 70% of the crop due to cracking of not yet ripe berries.

So, in seven years, I brought at least 10 trucks of manure and humus and 3 trucks of sand to the site. I used a trolley to manure many, many different organic matter and enough ash. Every year, each grape bush I receive a bucket of ash, fruit trees, berry and ornamental shrubs are not deprived of it.

As a result, my site became ten centimeters higher than all the neighboring ones. Each bed has its own soil, its own acidity. To the cucumber patch- more fresh manure, for tomato- a little humus and a lot of mulch, mostly cardboard, but for carrots- a lot of sand, a lot of nettle mulch.

Until 2003, manure was fermented using the working solution "Baikal--EM-1" (1:100), beds and trunk circles in spring and autumn, I treated it with the working solution "Baikal-EM-1" (1: 1000), and since the autumn of 2003 I have been using only my own EMs, prepared according to the technology of N. I. Kurdyumov and Yu. I. Slashchinin. Every year from March to October, I have a barrel with a solution of my EOs, which I use for irrigation and for composting organic matter.

I compost any organics directly on the beds, along with the remnants of the mulch. Compost pits I use only for breeding worms. After the rain, such worms crawl out onto the asphalt !!! And I them- in a jar and on your site.

There are also questions regarding mulching.

I planted two saplings of grapes in the yard, and then the yard was concreted, leaving "stem circles" around the saplings with a diameter of 30-40 cm. It turns out that concrete- is it mulch?

I covered the trunk circles of sea buckthorn with a thick layer of fine gravel with sand and humus. Is that also mulch?

Ruberoid, polyethylene films different- is it a multimaterial?

But what about then: "Mulch- it is some kind of decomposable organic material that covers the surface of the soil.” (N. Zhirmunskaya)?

And another question: how many buckets of mulch, for example, rice husks, and even better humus, do you need to fall asleep at least 8 cm (and someone recommends 10 cm, and even 15 cm) layer one square meter garden surface? And if the whole garden? And if all the beds (I have 28 of them)?

I know ... I mulch all the plantings - "total mulching" is called. And only organic: manure, compost, humus, sawdust, hay, straw, weeds, rice husks. I collect leaf litter and weeds from neighbors, nettles- in ravines, straw- on the outskirts of the fields, cardboard boxes- from the market, from the shops.

I mulch raspberries with corn and sorghum straw every year in autumn. All year round I have strawberries, honeysuckle, gooseberries, currants, all other shrubs- from hyssop and rue to vitex and unabi, all columnar apple trees, pears and cherry plums. All year round, the near-stem circles of pome and stone fruits are slightly mulched.

Perennial grasses in spring easily break through a 1-3 cm layer of mulch. I plant garlic and winter onions (sets and selections) directly in the mulch around berry bushes. Around honeysuckle and all columnar plants, I plant only winter or spring onions, because when harvesting garlic, the roots of trees and shrubs are severely damaged.

In summer, pome and stone fruit trees and seedlings, berry and ornamental shrubs, all garden and flower crops I feed with my EM compote, infusions of nettles, legumes, chicken manure, flint pebbles. I combine fertilizing with watering. At the end of July, I stop feeding with infusions, but I spill everything composted with EM compote until November.

autumn separate beds after abundant watering with an EM solution, I cover it with cardboard, which I press down on the soil with something heavy so that it is not blown away by the wind. By spring, microbes and worms process the organic matter under the cardboard and partially eat the cardboard.

Every autumn I clean the trunks of old trees from dead bark, and in early spring I coat trunks and skeletal branches with a creamy aqueous mixture of clay and mullein, to which I add a little ash and copper sulfate.

I don't use any chemicals on site. No fertilizers, no poisons. I only add nitroammophoska to EM compote- 200 g for every 200 liters. I use bitoxibacillin against the Colorado potato beetle. I used an ax against the curliness of peach leaves ... I have not "splashed" Bordeaux liquid for five years.

But the most important thing: for the seventh year I have not been digging beds either in autumn or in spring. I don't bother my assistants- microbes and worms. I don’t step on the beds, I don’t trample them myself and I don’t allow guests. This is the main law in my area, even for a two-year-old grandson.

I only loosen unmulched areas of beds after watering or rain, shallow- up to 5 cm.

As the main gardening tools, I use Fokine's large and small flat cutters, potato and garlic "planters" made according to Fokine's description and slightly improved, pitchforks and shovel for organic work. Another sickle. With a bayonet shovel I only dig planting holes and dig up potatoes.

I don't need a rake on the site. They and all sorts of other hillers and rippers, hoes, hoes can easily replace Fokine's flat cutters. With a rake, I only collect garbage on the street in front of the house and leaf litter from my neighbors. I do not collect my leaf litter on the site at all. He's "lost in the mulch.

More about tools: pitchforks, shovels, rakes, I try to plant on rectangular cuttings. I try to get rid of round cuttings and handles. I believe that the tool should be first of all convenient, and then beautiful. Therefore, I was surprised by one article about the "improvement" of Fokin's flat cutter. One craftsman "modernized" the flat cutter: the stalk, rectangular in cross section, was replaced by a round one. Well, at least this note appeared after the death of V.V. Fokin. His invention is a specially curved piece of iron made of good steel, screwed with two bolts precisely to a handle that is rectangular in cross section.

I understand that everything can be “modernized” ad infinitum… I suffer from this myself. V.V. Fokin did not write that it is convenient to measure, for example, the width of the beds or the distance between currant bushes with a flat cutter handle, if centimeter marks are applied to it every 5 or 10 cm.

Stationary beds make it easier for me to rotate vegetable crops, their joint landings, provide successive landings. On each bed I have 5-6 crops growing at the same time. I learned to combine them by planting dates, by growth, by their mutual influence.

There are no problems with crop rotation, since I use green manure: oats, barley, wheat, beans, fenugreek- i.e. cereals and legumes. He refused rapeseed, cruciferous fleas love it very much. Refused and alfalfa- its greens and hay are not particularly liked by my chickens. And it was tempting: seven cuttings per season from 2-3-year-old alfalfa.

"On the paths and wherever possible, grass grows..."- write K. Malyshevsky and N. Kurdyumov. And I have a variety of greens, legumes, marigolds and calendula everywhere, wherever possible. And the grass on the paths is unacceptable for me, especially in the morning, in dew or after rain,- indoor slippers, in which I walk around the site almost all year round, quickly get wet. I don't have dirt.

And if plantain, dandelion, celandine or chamomile appear on the beds, then for me these are not weeds, if they do not interfere with vegetables. Weeds I call spinach-raspberry, fennel, chervil, mad cucumber, propagating by self-sowing, as well as tomatoes, watermelons, zucchini, pumpkins and even cucumbers, the seeds of which fall on the beds, more often in raspberries and under currants, with manure and from the chicken coop. If on the beds I grow only yellow and black tomatoes (these are "cultivated"), then red ones ("wild") grow by self-sowing.

I try to explain to my friends and neighbors: if compost from plant residues of legumes is a high-quality fertilizer, then why not make an infusion of legumes for top dressing? And if nettle is recommended to insist as an excellent top dressing, then why not compost it? Why not mulch potato, carrot, onion and other plantings with nettles? On the slopes of ravines, before flowering, nettle grows into 2-meter impenetrable thickets. Take the sickle- and forward...

Most of the neighbors, unfortunately, do not understand me, they laugh. My site is called a park, and they call me- Michurinist. But I do not take offense at them, I forgive them when they cannot distinguish okra from castor bean, lagenaria from cowpea.

It's a shame when in the fall all the plant remains are in a heap- and for matches. And even worse: all the organics through the fence, into the street, and there, along with leaf litter- into the fire, and the ashes- into a garbage truck.

S. Kladovikov , Krasnodar region

The apple tree needs fertile soil for active growth and good development, having neutral properties.

But very often the structure of the earth is completely different, so planting holes are dug for trees, into which add needed by the tree useful elements.

It is best to prepare not only the pit, but also the ground, since the roots will absorb useful material from all over the area.

After all if the apple tree is vigorous, then its roots can grow up to 12 m in breadth.

The apple tree prefers fertile cultivated lands with neutral characteristics, only on such soils will it fully grow and produce a crop.

ADVICE: Dig up the earth when it is slightly damp, but not when there is excess moisture in rainy weather, in this case it is better to wait a few days. If there is a drought, then you can water the ground before the event.

Pick up all the roots from the ground when digging.

• Separate 2-3 handfuls of soil, pour rain or distilled water into it, mix, you need to the soil had the consistency of liquid porridge.
• Leave for a quarter of an hour and mix the earth again.
• After 5 minutes, apply litmus paper to the surface. If the paper turns red, then you have a very acidic soil, pH greater than 5.0. If the paper turns orange, then you have medium acidity (pH 5.1-pH 5.5) if the paper turned yellow, then your land has slightly acidic characteristics, and if turned green, then neutral.

Watch the video on how to determine the acidity of the soil:

• If you have acidic soil, then pour 600 g of ground limestone per 1 m²;
• If the acidity is average, then 300 g;
• If slightly acidic, then 100 g.

Do not add lime to the ground at the same time as phosphorus and ammonia nitrogen fertilizers.

IMPORTANT! If the land is uncultivated, it has excess moisture and you need to divert the water. Drain or dig ditches.

If the peat lies in a layer that is more than 40 cm, then add when digging for 10 m² - 0.4 cubic meters of sand. If the peat layer is thinner, then do not add sand.

Pour on 1 m² of land:

• 2 kg of humus, cow manure;
• 150 g of superphosphate;
• 200 g of phosphate rock;
• 50 g potassium sulfate.

Dig up the ground 25 cm. Sow green manure plot, then bevel and patch them. Then you can dig planting holes.

On the sand

One year before planting, sprinkle on 1 m²:

• 50 kg of clay,
• 15 kg of organic matter (humus),
• 0.5-0.7 kg of lime,
• 70 g superphosphate,
• 40 g potassium.

Then dig up the ground to a depth of 50 cm. Sow green manure let them grow, mow them down. At the bottom of the landing pit, lay a drainage of clay or silt.

Watch the video on how to plant an apple tree in sandy soil:

on loam

Loams contain clay and sand and are not enough nutrients for an apple tree.

Therefore there when digging the soil, add per 1 m²:

• 15 kg of rotted manure or ready-made compost;
• 40 g of potassium sulfate;
• 70 g of superphosphate.

Pit preparation for different types and varieties of apple trees

For tall apple trees

For them, pits are dug so that there is an indent of 6 m between the rows, and a distance of 4-5 m must be observed between the trees. The pits themselves on cultivated lands are made 0.8 m deep and 1.2 m in diameter.

Watch the video on how to properly prepare a hole for an apple tree:

For semi-dwarf trees

For medium-sized apple trees, the planting pit should be 0.5 m deep and 1 m in diameter.

For dwarf trees

Indent between rows of 4 m, and between apple trees 2.5 m, dig holes 0.4 m deep and 0.9 m in diameter.

At the bottom of the pit, pour:

• 10 liters of rotted mullein or humus;
• 10 liters of fertile soil from the top layer;
• 40 g potassium;
• 40 g of phosphorus.

If you plant apple trees in spring, then add 55-70 g of carbamide to the pit.

Watch a video on how to make a landing pit:

For columnar apple trees

ADVICE! If you want to plant columnar apple trees, then dig holes, keeping a distance of 1 m between rows and 0.6 m between apple trees.

Pit for apple tree dimensions: diameter 50 cm and depth 50 cm. At the bottom, place drainage from river sand and coarse gravel with a layer of 20-25 cm. Mix the excavated earth with humus and mineral top dressing.

4-5 kg ​​of organic fertilizers, 80-90 g of superphosphate and 80 g of potassium sulfate, a glass of ash are poured into the ground dug out of the hole.

Preparing a landing pit for an apple tree Melba

Melba prefers light and fertile land, loams suit her best. It is not advised to plant it on heavy muddy soil or clay.

She prefers earth that has neutral or slightly alkaline properties.. Make drainage.

Melba also prefers well-lit places and does not like cold wind.

The landing pit is dug in advance to a depth of 0.8 m, the diameter of the pit is 1 m. The top layer of soil is mixed with humus, a little sand is added. For every 5 liters of earth, 200 g of ash, 400 g of simple superphosphate, 150 g of potassium sulfate are poured.

Preparation of a landing pit in Siberia and the Urals

Basically, the land in Siberia and the Urals is stony or clay, it retains moisture well. That's why it is very important to add the necessary organic matter and sand when digging.

Watch a video about caring for a columnar apple tree in Siberia:

For planting columnar apple trees dig holes according to the principle of warm beds. Empty plastic bottles are placed at the bottom, with tightly screwed lids, they will retain heat in the ground.

After that, compost is added to the pit, and then nitrogen and carbon layers alternate. Nitrogenous layers (mowed grass, tops, fallen leaves, potato peelings, carrots) and carbonaceous (branches, paper, sawdust, cardboard). All this is folded into a mound and left until the seedlings are planted.

Conclusion

remember, that it is best to dig up the earth and apply organic matter and mineral fertilizers at the same time, then dig planting holes, and plant in six months.

When adding humus and mineral fertilizers, consider the type of soil. And the size of the pit depends on the type of soil and the type of apple tree.

In contact with

Planting hole for apple trees.

Planting pits are prepared 2-3 months in advance, and in the fall six months before the proposed planting of the apple tree. On cultivated soils, the diameter of the planting pit for apple trees on vigorous rootstocks should be 80-120 cm, its depth is 60-80 cm. The planting pattern for such apple trees is 4-5 X 5-6 m. landing pattern 3x5 m), on dwarf ones - 90x40 cm (landing pattern 1.5x4 m). Columnar apple trees are planted in grooves 40 cm wide and 40-30 cm deep, while leaving 90-100 cm between rows, and 40 cm between plants in a row. When digging a planting hole upper layer soils are folded onto pre-prepared polyethylene on one side of the pit, the lower one on the other. The roots of perennial weeds are removed. The bottom of the landing pit is loosened with a crowbar or dug up. Next, prepare the soil mixture to fill the pit. To do this, 2-3 buckets of manure, humus or compost, 800 g of ash, 1 kg of complex mineral fertilizer and 300 g of fluffy lime are added to the soil from the planting pit and mixed well. Organic fertilizers should be the main fill in the planting hole. You can bring ready-made fertile soil to fill the planting pit. The planting pit is filled with the prepared soil mixture: the upper fertile layer is placed on the bottom, and the lower layer is placed on top. At the same time, the soil is once again mixed with fertilizers and compacted. The filled planting pit should be 10-20 cm above ground level. This is necessary so that over time, during natural subsidence of the soil, the root neck of the seedling is not buried. The deepening of the root neck affects the frost resistance and further development of the apple tree.

Soil preparation.

Ideally, not only the planting hole is prepared, but also the entire soil, from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich the apple roots will receive nutrients. After all, the roots of only one vigorous apple tree can grow up to 12 m in a horizontal direction. Only on fertile cultivated soils will your apple trees fully develop, bear fruit abundantly and live long. To prepare uncultivated soil for planting an apple tree or apple orchard it is processed beforehand. As a result of processing, you should get fertile, loose, moisture-intensive soil with neutral acidity. You need to dig the soil that is not too wet and not too dry. If necessary, postpone the event or water the soil a few days before digging. When digging, all perennial weeds are weeded out.

Clay soil preparation. If you have clay soil, it should be dug up by 40-50 cm and added to 1 sq. m 50 kg of sand, 15 kg of sawdust, 10-15 kg of rotted manure, humus, compost and (or) peat, 500 g of lime, 100-150 g of complex mineral fertilizer or 70 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium fertilizer without chlorine formula. After digging, sow the soil with phacelia, mustard, lupine or other green manure. Let the crop grow without flowering and mow. Until the next digging, leave the mowed grass on the surface of the soil, after that, bury it in the soil.

Sandy soil preparation. Uncultivated sandy soils a year before planting an apple tree, dig to a depth of 50 cm and add 1 sq. m50 kg of clay, 10-15 kg of organic fertilizers / manure, compost, peat, humus /, 500-700 g of lime, 70 g of superphosphate and 40 g potassium. After sowing the soil with green manure, let it grow and mow.

Preparation of peat soil. If you have peat uncultivated soils, then they are waterlogged, and you need to lower the level of groundwater in them. To do this, dig deep trenches around the perimeter of the site or lay drainage on the site. If the layer of peat in the soil is more than 40 cm, add 100 square meters for digging. m 4 cu. m of sand. If the peat layer is smaller, do not add sand when digging, but dig up the soil by 25 cm and add 1 sq. m 2 kg of manure or compost, 150 g of superphosphate, 200 g of phosphate rock, 50 g of potassium sulfate, 600-1000 g of lime, depending on the acidity of the soil. Sow green manure and then close them when digging. After cultivating the soil, planting pits can be prepared.

The diagram shows a planting hole and planting an apple tree seedling.

Read more about the apple tree:

Apple varieties: White filling / Papirovka / , Grushovka Moscow , Zhigulevskoe , July Chernenko , Cinnamon striped , Candy , Mantet ,

First you need to understand why you need it and whether you need it at all.

Today, for many, the question has become relevant orchards. Although since ancient times, man has grown gardens and ate the healthy and fresh fruits of it.

Do you know that an apple is considered fresh for only 2 hours from the moment of removal from the branch, and berry - only 20 minutes!

It probably makes no sense to explain that purchased apples and other fruits and berries do not have useful properties because they are loaded with chemicals.

Man, growing a crop for sale, seeks to grow it more and faster. It is not for him to grow healthy vegetables or fruit. What can not be said about summer residents who grow for themselves and for health.

What is natural or organic farming?

In a nutshell, then:

Such as: mineral fertilizers, which eventually accumulate in the fruits and in the green mass of plants and which we then eat, feed our children and grandchildren.

So, you have decided to plant fruit trees and berry bushes on your site.

Maybe they are already growing with you, but you are not satisfied with your crops. Are you doing everything right?

How to plant fruit trees

Start by choosing a culture. What trees would you like to see in your garden?

We are located geographically in the Perm Territory - middle lane Ural, even closer to the north. Therefore, we will talk about those crops that can be easily grown in our strip.

You can pay attention to such fruit trees as:

Apple tree

Pear

Cherry

Apricot

Peach

Plum

And for berry bushes:

Gooseberry

Currant

Grape

Of course, you can grow many other useful crops, but let's focus on these.

Features of growing apple trees according to natural farming

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What should you pay attention to?

It is important to understand the structure of the tree. What crown you see in front of you is the root system of any tree. There is a balance - each root is responsible for its own branch.

Winter hardiness of a tree is an important parameter when choosing a variety. This is the ability to endure winter natural phenomena such as:

• Temperature changes
• Thaws
• Winds

There are frost cracks on trees or sunburn. This is when the bark bursts from frost in winter and the trunk is exposed. And in the scorching sun in the spring, the trunk gets burned.

To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to paint over the bare trunk with special paint - it is called GARDEN TREE PAINT. It lasts for two years - very comfortable. The whitewash is washed off therefore it is ineffective.

White paint reflect part sun rays, preventing the heating of the bark. And this must be done in the fall - this will protect the trunk from frost and from sunburn.

The task of any tree- Capture as much territory as possible. Therefore, in thickened places, the top of the crown develops more clearly.

Your task is to get the maximum yield with a minimum of space. Therefore, the apple tree must be immediately formed, pruned and cared for.

Only horizontal branches bear fruit!

Therefore, it is important to learn how to form an apple tree correctly from the first year of life.

Your task is to form a tree from a young age:

Low - this will help with caring for him and when harvesting

Illuminated - the light should come both outside and inside the crown - we form it in the shape of a bowl.

Balanced - the root part must match the branch part.

How to properly prune an apple tree

You must understand that they form an apple tree from a young age, and if you already have an adult tree, then this is already pruning.

It is desirable to paint over the places of cuts with paint, but not immediately, but when the cut dries.

Correct cuts

In any case, you will cut it wrong - leave a stump if you use secateurs with ratchet. It does not have the ability to cut straight. Therefore, use a different pruner for this.

You can make substitutes from tops and direct them horizontally.

Sometimes it is necessary to apply surgical methods for the apple tree:

Furrowing - so that the bark does not crack

Ringing - slows down growth

Files - in order to bend a thick branch

You yourself can stimulate the apple tree to bear fruit if you direct the branches horizontally. You can tie them up by securing the twine in the ground with a peg.

molded apple tree roughly looks like this

Principles of apple tree formations

Growth length shows the state of the root system of the apple tree

Medium growth - promotes fruiting

The fattening tree is weakened, and the weak one is stimulated

fruitful branch:

A) inclined
b) illuminated
c) available for harvest

We make the branches fruitful - we bend, pinch and cut in the summer

We create fruits - regularly shortening the shoots

Mulch is an important agricultural technique.

Sawdust, compost, leaves and grass can be used as mulch.

You can cover the root zone with stones. If they are laid out correctly, less often, then a good microclimate is also created under them.

The root zone of the apple tree must be mulched. While conducting an experiment, we noticed that it is mulching that is useful for an apple tree, and not planting sedirats under it.

Probably because the sedirats begin to compete with the root system of the apple tree, so the tree slows down a little in development.

As for flower beds, flowers with a superficial root system should be preferred. The flower bed looks great under the apple tree

Selection of seedlings

If you purchase seedlings, then trust the recommendations of your friends. If they tell you that they bought it from there, from such and such a nursery or gardener, he bought 5 years ago and everything is growing remarkably ... This means that this seller values ​​\u200b\u200bits reputation and will not deceive you.

Because watching the sellers in the market, we noticed this approach. A gardener comes and says that he needs such and such a variety ... The seller to him - yes, this variety. Another person comes, names another variety, and they sell him from the same pile as another variety.

Then it turns out that you bought poplar at all ... (((

It is better to buy at fairs from nurseries that often come to you and you have already heard something good about them.

Apple seedlings. Varieties, selection, proper planting and care.

When choosing seedlings, it is important to pay attention to the fact that the root system is moist. People who sell seedlings always try to moisten them.

If you see that the seedlings are standing with open roots in the air, then pass by ... The survival rate will be very low.

The choice of seedlings is carried out:

by root system

Slightly scratch the bark, if the seedling is alive, then a green trunk will peep through. The buds should also be green inside, but unblown.

If you notice the leaves, then know: the leaves that are already formed, they begin to intensively evaporate moisture. Moisture doesn't get to them. Therefore, such a seedling will wither very quickly and most likely die.

If you buy seedlings in the fall, then wait for the natural leaf fall in nature. Many sellers usually remove foliage from seedlings themselves. If you purchased with leaves, then remove all the foliage yourself when planting, so that the seedling takes root better.

It is very good if the seedling is slightly crooked. Such a plant is most adapted to adverse conditions. So it will live long and bear fruit abundantly.

Preparing the landing pit

Basically do not throw mineral fertilizers there. Plants have the same nature as humans, just a different form.

Imagine a small child and you apply fertilizer to him. The same thing happens with the roots of the seedling. And if the plant grows, it is not because of chemistry, but in spite of it.

If you use manure, then do not use fresh manure either - you will burn the roots. The best thing is compost. You can use ashes, but also not directly on the roots. The roots are better to fall into good black earth.

Digging right hole in the form of a cube: 60*60*60cm. At the bottom of 15 cm we put a layer of crushed stone or caramzite, you can use small pebbles - for drainage.

But it all depends on your soil. If the soil is sandy, then you can dig a hole deep up to a meter and fill it with compost, and you can leave the drainage out - everything will be fine there anyway.

If your place is low and swampy, close ground water, then you are already faced with the fact that the trees do not grow very well and die quickly. Then it is important for you to make mounds, raised beds and make raised plantings.

Be sure to dig in a pipe 10-15 cm wide - for irrigation.

Correct planting depth

The root system needs to be well straightened.

Apple nutrition

Use only organic fertilizers, for example, we use Baikal EM-1 and herbal infusions. With the use of this drug, fruiting is increased and diseases are reduced. It can be applied as soon as the weather has settled plus 15-18 degrees.