Manual planer - preparing the tool for work and choosing a tool (125 photos). Manual planer: types, description, purpose. Joiner's tools Selection of hand planers

Planer manual - is a tool for woodworking, used for planing since ancient times. In the modern world, it also does not lose its popularity and is in the arsenal of any private workshop. Thanks to this tool, surfaces made of wood can be given the desired plane and roughness, achieving the desired shape and thickness of the part. It is also used for making necessary recesses of various shapes in the workpiece.

Description

The standard type of planes as such is slowly being replaced by more modern counterparts with electric motors and allowing to speed up the mass production of products. Today automatic devices run the show, but if the goal is to build a chair in garage conditions, then the mechanical version of the tool will also cope with this, the main design of which is made of a block, a wedge and a cutting knife (iron).

Depending on the additional elements and the assigned task, the tool is divided into several types of planers, sorted according to their purpose. Mechanical options are made mainly from combinations of metal and plastic, and differ in functionality only in the strength of the underlying material.

Electric ones are equipped with a motor that provides great speed task execution. One of the most popular in today's household are planers for woodworking.

The design of the hand planer

A jointer is one of the options for a planer device, characterized by a large, elongated block that protrudes beyond the main plane. This version of the tool is intended for fine planing (including large planes) or fitting product fragments in the company with an auxiliary ruler.

The block is the main bearing part of which the planer consists. A blade is already attached to it, which is commonly called a piece of iron among carpenters, as well as a wedge that fixes it in the block.

These components in one form or another are available in both electrical and mechanical versions of the tool, and depending on the dimensions, technical purpose and the availability of additional modules, they can be divided into many types and types.

This design has existed since the time of the so-called wooden planer - which has a very long history. It is worth starting with the name of the instrument, which comes from the German word Raubank. The ancient invention was created around the first century AD, if you believe the findings of archaeological excavations on the territory of Pompeii. And distribution among the masters received only at the turn of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Structurally, it consisted of a wooden block with a blade fixed with a wedge.

Many years later, the device evolved into a joiner's planer. Its differences lie in the use of more metal parts. Naturally, his block also changed material. Certainly, wooden planer much lighter than its counterpart, and glide very well on wooden surface, but in practice, most basic models are quite difficult to rebuild compared to metal counterparts, which, in addition, are cheaper due to mass production.

Planer types

flat planing

For flat planing, it is best to use hand planers such as Scherhebel, which is perfect for rough woodworking. After cutting, they prepare the surface for the final leveling by approximately fitting all the irregularities to one format. Sherhebel is a planer suitable for a huge number of tasks.

It has proven itself as the main tool for planing wood that has already been processed. It has a rather weighty and dimensional body made of metal, and is mainly intended for rough initial processing of the material by deep planing to obtain approximate size and shapes cutting off thick layers of wood. However, it is impossible to get a smooth surface when working with this planer, for which other types of tools are usually taken to help him, because, as mentioned earlier, the types of planers and their purposes differ.

In addition to sherhebel and zenzubel:

1. For the manufacture of floor and exterior coverings, a bear is well suited - the appearance of which is distinguished by a wide base with paired handles mounted on the sides of the structure. This tool usually requires two people to operate. The blade in the structure is fixed with a wedge at a distance sufficient to remove a 1 mm layer of wood.
2. Semi-joiner - a shortened version of the standard jointer, used for planing large planes. Despite the length of the sole, but 60 centimeters has an “adult” blade with a width of 8 centimeters. It is used for primary processing of prepared parts.
3. A grinder is a manual planer for the final cleaning of the surface and the elimination of most defects caused by the influence of previous treatments. With the slop of this tool, planing of the ends, areas with knots or with violations of the wood structure is carried out. The design provides for the installation of a double knife with a chipbreaker blade set at an angle of 60 degrees relative to the sole.
4. Tsinubel is a manual planer for working with serpentine types of wood, during the use of which small grooves are applied to the surface of the material, which improve the fastening of elements when used. adhesive bond. Installed knives have ribbing, forming teeth during sharpening. Adequate work without scuffing with curly wood is ensured by the competent installation of the knife blade at an angle of 80 degrees. The length of the device fluctuates around 20 centimeters.
5. Structurally similar to the zentoubel, the selector planer differs from it in the presence of a single blade made of high-strength tool steel with the use of subsequent hardening to give additional strength. Designed for sampling grooves when performing carpentry and joinery work.

There are also three planers for additional manipulations with the source material:

• End planer - used for processing ends and surfaces with a tangled pattern of fibers.
• Single planer - a tool for re-processing during work, which produces small chips on the surface without breaking. (Small chips or nicks are normal as a result of hand planer work.)
• Double planer - in addition to the main blade, it has an installed chip breaker, which improves the final quality of work.

Figure planing

In the environment of "figurists" tightly come into use common man a kind of manual planing tool is a zenzubel planer - structurally involving the installation of a double knife in the planer, which increases the quality of the surface of the final product. In most cases, it is used to clean quarters or surfaces that are perpendicular to each other. The installed knife is limited in width to 33 millimeters and is made in the form of a spatula, due to which, due to inexperience, it can be confused with a false belt.

Included with this tool is to have on hand:

1. Paznik in the common people - a planer, a groove in the workshop, a tool consisting of two blocks connected by long screws, one of which serves to set the direction of work, and the second fixes the position of the blades. This design serves to sample wood from grooves (tongues) applied along the edges of a wood blank.
2. For curly processing of a wooden surface and creating a special shape, a planer is used as blanks. It differs from its counterparts in the presence of cutters with curly edges mounted on a sole of several steps, which is installed depending on the desired result from shaping the profile. Often used in workshops doorways, baguettes and wooden cornices. Outwardly, it is almost indistinguishable from a standard planer, but structurally the blade, which has a rounded shape, is set at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the base. In one movement, the sherhebel is able to remove up to 3 millimeters of wood, leaving behind deep depressions that require further processing. The oval edge installed in the sherhebel allows you to plan the wood across the grain without the need for a longitudinal break. The sharpening angle of the tool blade can be changed to fit the work with harder woods.
3. Semi-joiners - planers with a length of less than 50 centimeters are the ideological heirs of standard jointers. They have a numbered classification - No. 5 and No. 6 and are almost completely similar in appearance. However, there is a difference, and quite significant, representing a difference in the width of the blade by a whole centimeter. Despite the fact that No. 6 in terms of the width of the blade may well be classified as a jointer, it still belongs to the semi-joiner class. While #5 is a multi-purpose tool recognized as such around the world, #6 is more of a jointer for women. Due to the shortened base, it weighs less and can be easily taken with you. And despite the size of the blade and sole, it cuts very smoothly, especially when it comes to shields. With them, he copes in any application, and when planing along the grain, and across those, and at 90 degrees.
4. Planer designed for selection of folds - folded linen. It is equipped with a block with a stepped sole that allows you to cut folds of the same size, since the knife is located at an angle of 80 degrees with respect to the plane of the base. The chip tray is organized on the left side of the planer. The stepped sole (depending on the model - removable) allows you to select the size of the folds and profiles for every taste.
5. Federgubel is a manual planer with a special blade shape that allows you to form a rectangular “tooth” along the end of the workpiece.
6. Headboard and headstall - concave knives give the workpieces a rounded shape and are used for processing products with convex surfaces.
7. Gruntubel - Shoe with a side, incisor-like hook, fixed with a screw or wedge. Serves for sampling grooves on trapezoidal profiles applied across the grain of the wood.
8. Gorbach or “American” is a manual planer designed for cutting and processing convex and concave planes having diameters outside or inside. The block of such a tool differs from the standard one in its curvilinear shape.

When performing carpentry, you should not rely on the seeming versatility of such a tool as a hand planer, because if it were true, there would be no need to come up with so many variations of the same device. Working with wood is very delicate and requires a serious approach to choosing the right planer at every stage of production.

hand planer is a woodworking tool that has long been used for planing. To this day, he does not lose popularity in private workshops. With this device, you can give the wooden surface the desired roughness, flatness, straightness or shape, reducing the size of the parts. A planer is also used for making extended grooves, which can have different shapes - these can be tongues or quarters.

Description

The hand planer is no longer so popular today, it is being replaced by tools that are powered by electricity and can meet the needs of mass production. Today, automated lines run everything. However, if you want to make a stool or chair in your garage, then you can think of the good old planer.

Its main parts are:

• piece of iron (knife);
• wedge;
• block.

Depending on the equipment, purpose and dimensions accessories, the planer can be divided into many types and subspecies. Mechanical planers are made of metal, plastic, and a combination of these materials. In terms of functionality, they are almost the same, but specifications depend on the material that forms the basis of the case.

Electric models are supplemented with an engine that provides a more impressive amount of work. With this tool, you can achieve high speed wood processing. One of the most popular household woodworking tools today are wooden planers.

The main types of planers and their purpose

A hand planer can be classified according to the type of planing: it can be profiled or flat. These tools are also divided according to the profile, the size of the pads and the angle of the knife. Among other varieties, one can single out a sherhebel, which is a tool for rough planing. It has a flat sole pad and has rounded cutter blades.

If you have a device with two handles and an elongated body, then this is a bear. It has the appearance of a single or double planer, which is intended for rough planing. Additionally, the tool is supplied with a chip breaker.

A manual planer can be represented by a semi-joiner or a jointer, the difference of which is a long large block. It is intended for fine planing, fitting parts, planing of large planes, during which a ruler is used.

If extra-clean planing is required, a grinder is used, which has a double knife. It has a chipbreaker in its design, and the double knife is set at an impressive angle, which is 50° instead of 45°. To create small tracks on the surface, a cynubel is used, after processing with which the parts can be glued together.

To select quarters, a selector is used, which is also called a zenzubel. For stripping quarters, a false heel is used, while a sheet pile can be used to select a sheet pile. The scraping of surfaces is carried out using a tool of the same name, and the operation is a finish before applying primers. As distinguishing feature of these works is the absence of abrasive particles that remain inside the wood during grinding.

However, scraping has a drawback, which is expressed in the excessive complexity of the operation. Dignity can be flat surface and chip fineness. To process curly edges, a moulder is used, while an American or a hunchback has a curvilinear block. It is used for curved surfaces, which can be concave or convex.

To give the details a rounded shape, a headstock is used. The knife edge of this tool has a concave shape, while the fillets are convex.

Additional types

A screw is narrower than a sherhebel. It is intended for surface treatment at the initial stage. This planer has an iron cutter that is not straight. It has a rounded shape, so when planing it is possible to obtain long grooves.

To form a trapezoidal phase, a primer is used. With this tool, wood is processed across the grain. The design of the tool has pads and cutters that look like a pointed hook.

A more detailed description of the sherhebel

If we consider the carpentry tool more closely, then we can pay attention to the features of the sherhebel. It represents heavy artillery among a variety of similar devices. It is used when planing material that has not been processed before. This device is quite heavy and massive, as it has a metal case.

Its main purpose is primary processing, after which products acquire desired shape and sizes. This is used for planing to an impressive depth, when it is necessary to remove a rather thick layer of wood. With the help of a sherhebel, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve a flat and smooth surface. For this, other types of planers are used. By appearance its design resembles an ordinary planer, but the piece of iron in it is set at an angle of 45 ° and has rounded blades.

Processing features

In one pass, using the described tool, you can remove a layer of up to 3 mm. In those places where the wood was processed, rather deep hollows remain, so they have to be leveled in the future. Scherhebel has an oval-shaped cutting edge, so it can be used to process wood across the grain. The sharpening angle may vary, depending on the hardness of the wood.

Description of the professional planer brand Groz 39701

This planer (manual professional) is a fairly popular model. It has a length of 260 mm and a weight of 1.7 kg. The cutting width is 50 mm. The tool is of high quality, has a solid strong base, which is made of gray cast iron. Tool steel forms the basis of the blade, which is removed and has long term use.

The hardness of the material is equal to the limit of 50-60HRC, it contains a high amount of chromium. The tool has been ground for predictable, consistent and sharp results and is manufactured with the utmost precision. This planer for wood (manual), according to consumers, has only one drawback, which is that when it hits a nail, the blade suffers significantly.

Description of the Zubr brand mini-planer

If you are interested in a manual mini-planer, then you can consider the Zubr model, the body of which is made of high-quality gray cast iron. The blade is made of U8A steel and complies with state standards. It provides the possibility of multiple refinement working surface. This manual planer, the price of which is 970 rubles, has plastic at the base of the handle. The length of the sole is 250 mm while the width is 50 mm.

Conclusion

You can purchase a knife for a manual planer additionally, its cost is 198 rubles. But when choosing the main device, you need to pay attention to the presence of a chipbreaker, which is also called a humpback. Its lower edge is parallel to the cutting edge of the knife. The distance between these elements can vary from 0.2 to 2 mm. The closer the bottom edge is, the wider the planing.

When choosing a tool, you must also consider what stage of wood processing it is intended for. For example, a double planer is used for finishing - it can be used to clean out scuffs. If you direct the double planer at an angle of 40 ° to the longitudinal axis, then with the help of the tool it will be possible to plan the ends of the workpieces.

There are the following types of plows.

Sherhebel

Sherhebel- the narrowest of all plows, has a piece of iron 45 mm wide, which is rounded at the bottom and protrudes beyond the plane of the sole up to 3 mm. It is used for preliminary rough processing when it is necessary to remove the upper thick layer. After processing with a sherhebel, traces of an oval piece of iron, clearly visible to the naked eye, remain on the board. His dimensions: length 250 mm. height 65 mm, iron filler angle 45°.

Single planer

double planer in contrast to the single one, it has a blunt adjustable valve, which is installed in front of the piece of iron on a screw. The valve plays the role of a chip breaker. The closer it is to the cutting edge, the cleaner the planing will be. A double planer is used for clean planing, for cleaning burrs and serrated surfaces.

sander

sander- a shortened planer, with a double piece of iron, which is somewhat moved forward to the block and therefore forms an increased cutting angle. The sander removes very fine chips and is designed to remove minor unevenness after the planer, as well as to clean up scuffs, ends and squiggles. The sander can process all types of pressed wood.

Jointer

end planer- the same as a double planer, but with a piece of iron set at an acute angle to the side of the block. It is intended for gouging the ends, sometimes a double planer is used instead, the block of which in this case must be held at an acute angle to the direction of planing or, in other words, moved sideways.

humpback planer

Tsinubel- this is a special type of planer, the blade of which forms a jagged edge to y, and the additive angle is 80 ° (Fig. 20). It is used for planing curly wood, as well as for the formation of roughness or pile on the treated surface before gluing the material, when gluing wide surfaces of boards in thickness.

cycle

cycle is a steel plate made from used hacksaws or cross saws(dimensions: length 120 mm, width at least 60 mm and thickness up to 1 mm), Serves as a tool for finishing and cleaning wooden parts after processing them double planer or a grinder. Its cutting edge is a sting or burr obtained after the movement of a piece of steel along its surface. Since, during scraping, the tip is located almost at a right angle to the surface to be machined, the chips removed are very thin, and the surface is clean and even.

The choice of a planer becomes no less important process than the direct use of the tool. Planer - indispensable tool any carpenter, whether amateur or professional. With it, any wood surface is processed. On this moment There are two main types: the manual one, which is the traditional instrument, and the electric instrument, which is gradually replacing its predecessor. That is, the second type is better. Below are the characteristics of the planers and how to choose it.

What is a hand planer made of?

This type of planer, as a rule, consists of the following elements:

• a body on which other constituent elements are attached;
• a slot from which chips are ejected and in which a knife is fixed;
• knife or cutter - a sharpened steel plate that directly cuts the material;
• a wedge or clamp with which the knife is pressed against the body;
• chip removal thickness control;
• two handles (front and back);
• chip breaker, which breaks and rolls chips;
• cutting width regulator;
• frog - a metal plate that adjusts the angle of the knife.

How to choose a hand planer?

Small planes are used to correct mistakes and more fine work.

When choosing a manual planer, you need to know its functional features:

• the material is directly processed by a cutter installed in a special hole;
• the degree of sharpening of the cutter corresponds to the quality of wood processing;
• the correct choice of the angle of placement of the knife reduces the likelihood of creases during operation.

When choosing a planer, it is best to pay attention to the following characteristics:

• how well the cutter is sharpened;
• gap - the wider it is, the better quality processing;
• the angle of inclination and cutter, which is inherent in each type of work.

Depending on the goals to be achieved, the following planes are distinguished:

1. Planers: plane damaged or uneven surfaces.
2. Small planers: for finer work and correcting mistakes.
3. Jointers: for surfaces with large parameters.
4. Sherhebel: for the initial processing of wood.

electric planer

However, it should be remembered that an electric planer has a significant advantage over a manual one: high performance under conditions of a larger amount of work, a small amount of effort expended, a more perfect result, etc. The electric planer consists of the following elements:

• the case where the main parts of the tool are located;
• handle (one or two) for guiding the tool;
• start button and lock button (prevents arbitrary start of the tool);
• processing thickness regulator;
• chip ejection pipe;
• parallel stop;
• sole, which consists of a rough part that contacts the surface during processing, and a smooth back part;
• drum, where tungsten or steel knives are installed;
• knives;
• an electric motor driving a drum with knives;
• belt-transmission from the motor to the knives.

Electric planers are typically 600 to 900 watts in power and over 10,000 rpm in speed. At the same time, the higher the power and speed, the better the quality of processing. Household planers are characterized by lower power and speed. Professional planers, respectively, have above average speed and power.

It should be remembered that amateur planers periodically need rest due to overheating, professional planers work much longer.

How to choose an electric planer?

It is necessary to decide on the tasks before choosing an electric planer. When choosing an electric planer, one should be guided by technical and functional indicators.

Technical indicators when choosing a planer. Knife width and quality - a wide cutter means fewer passes for surface treatment. This ensures not only the quality of processing, but also reduces the amount of time for its implementation.

The amount of power. This indicator indicates the performance of the electric planer and the quality of the work performed. Accordingly, the higher the power, the better these indicators.

Number of turns. Like the previous point, a high number of revolutions provides smoother and better processing. Fixed mount function. Allows you to use the planer as planer and point the board at him.

Estimated hours of operation. Based on the functional purpose of the model (household or professional use) fluctuates the possible allowable period of operation. So, professional electric planers have no restrictions, while amateur ones do. For example, 20 min. work and then a 10 minute break.

Availability of accessories for sample quarters. These are additions to the specific models planes, which allow you to adjust the parameters of the depth and width of the sample. Thanks to these functions, it is possible to tightly join boards to each other.

The choice of a planer based on functional indicators involves paying attention to the following.

Sole. It consists of two parts. The back, which is in contact with the already treated surface, must be very smooth so as not to scratch the wood. The front end can be rougher as it comes in contact with the raw wood. During work, an air gap appears between the surface and the sole, which negatively affects the accuracy of work and the thickness of the cut. This problem is eliminated by placing parallel or V-shaped grooves on the sole, which provide chamfering. It is better to give preference to planers with adjustable sole height.

Pens. Planers can be either with only one rear handle, or with two - front and back. Given the bulkiness of the tool, planers with two handles are more reliable. The front handle ensures the direction of the planer in the right direction, the rear one - the application of the necessary physical force.

Chip thickness regulator. As a rule, the step of the regulator is 0.1 mm. Most models of electric planers have a regulator scale from 0 to 3 mm, however, some remove chips even at a value of 0. Therefore, it is better to choose planers with a scale from 0 to 3 mm, and if possible with a minus value.

Knives. Two removable tungsten carbide blades are placed on the planer drum. Sometimes the manufacturer installs steel knives. They are more durable, they can be removed, sharpened and further use. Steel knives are heavier in their fit to the planer drum. Some planers have only one helical blade, which provides faster and better chip removal. Replacing such a knife is not difficult.

Security elements. These include the lock button, which is located next to the power button. Without pressing the first button, the second will not work. This prevents the tool from running randomly. It is also important to have protective elements knives: plates on the sides of the planer that cover the edges of the drum, as well as a stop that protects the fingers and the surface from contact with the knives.

Chip ejection. A huge number of chips are produced when working with a planer, flying, including on the carpenter. Advantages are planers in which the direction of ejection of chips is adjustable. The ability to attach a garbage bag is important, but it should not be bulky. This issue can also be solved by attaching a planer to a vacuum cleaner.

The presence of a mount that ensures the use of a planer as a carpentry machine. This increases the versatility of this tool. Side stops, depth gauges. Their presence allows the carpenter to comfortably adjust the width and depth of the cut of the chips.

Ease of use. Comfortable handles with thoughtful button positions provide more comfortable work prevent premature fatigue in the worker.

It is not enough to choose a planer suitable for your tasks, it is important not to forget about buying a quality power cord of the right length.

Children acutely feel the untruth, and therefore almost everyone calls the planer a "planer". Planer is a non-Russian word that does not touch the cabin in any way. Raubank from German. Rau (rough) and lat. bank (bench). It was the Russian language that brought the consonances closer, anyway, both the Russian and the German word are associated with a wood tool that removes excess from the tree with a sharp metal blade.

Planes, their types and varieties

Planer is hand tool for cutting wood. Thing in carpentry(and in general in the economy) necessary, removing roughness from the processed wood, creating rectilinear planes, reducing the size, creating relief (grooves, spikes, figured profiles of skirting boards, etc.). The tool has been used since antiquity, but planes were found in the ashes of Pompeii, and their volcano "covered" almost two thousand years ago. Of course, during this time, planers have changed in many ways, their new modifications and varieties have appeared.

Now planers, almost like any other hand tool, are divided into:

• - mechanical;
• - electrical.

In turn, mechanical ones are divided according to the material from which the tool is made:

The plastic planer is the lightest among all the other brothers. Sometimes its body is made classically, that is, the shape resembles wood or metal. There are several blades on its sole. The fact is that they often perform peeling and grinding work not only on wood, but also on drywall. Many models feature quick-change cutting edges along with the sole to adjust the size and cleanliness of the cut.

A metal planer is similar in principle to a wooden planer, but there are several fundamental differences in the device. It consists of a metal body-block, front and rear handles (made of wood or plastic), a clamp with a screw and a knife. There is a notch in the sole, that is, a slot through which the knife blade comes out. The knife is fixed with a screw passing through the clamp. By loosening the clamping screw, the knife output can be increased or decreased, thus adjusting the chip thickness (fineness of work). Craftsmen usually use an iron planer when they feel sorry for a wooden one, that is, for more rough or uncomfortable work (for example, you need to cut the butt).

There are so many varieties of wooden planers that it is worth paying special attention to them.

wooden planers

There are many varieties, why? The fact is that plastic planers have appeared quite recently. And the first metal planer was patented by the British only in 1820. And they built from wood, and how they built it, everywhere. And it was necessary not only to hew a log or plan a board. It was necessary to have boards with a figured profile for finishing work, for the tightness of the jointsit was necessary to choose a quarter, cut a tongue and groove, etc.

So, because of the profile or flat view planing, due to the size of the block, and this characteristic allows you to maintain a flat plane during operation (the larger the size, the better), due to the angle of the cutter and the type of profile, varieties of planers are distinguished. Here are the main ones:

- sherhebel (shershebel) , whose large cutter has a slightly rounded blade, is used for rough flat planing, both along and across the fibers. Due to this shape, the blade leaves grooves behind itself, but in one pass they can remove up to three millimeters of wood. We can say that this tool is used for the primary processing of large wooden parts;

- bear - a long planer with two handles.They are operated by two people, sittingfacing each other right on the log. This planer can be either single or double. Medvedka is also a rather rough tool, it is also often called a chipbreaker (although the chip breaking function is inherent in many planers);

- jointer used for final finishing of long boards. Its purpose is to smooth and level large surfaces, therefore it is three times longer than a planer. It is used most often when it is necessary to finely process the surfaces to be joined.In front of the jointer there is a device that allows you to remove a knife from the notch with a mallet.

- Semi-jointed occupies an intermediate position in size between a planer and a jointer, respectively, it processes smaller surfaces than a jointer;

- sander is a shortened planer, often with two knives. The tool cleans the ends, sagging and scuffing, while clean planing is performed. Thus, clean and fine planing or planing of problematic or hard-to-reach places on wood is the prerogative of the sander;

- cynubel - also a shortened planer, but it has a knife with fine teeth. Its purpose is to specifically create grooves and roughness on wood for subsequent gluing. Irregularities increase the contact area, and the glue will hold much better. Especially such corrugation is necessary for hard rocks, where the glue does not penetrate well into the surfaces to be glued due to the absence of microcracks in the wood;

- zenzubel, orselector , is intended for sampling quarters, folds, as well as their stripping. Before working with a thickness gauge, you need to draw a line that will indicate how wide the quarter will be selected. The first time the zenzubel knife is held carefully so as not to go beyond the line. When at least a small depression appears, you can work bolder and faster;

- false tapestries performs, in principle, the same work on the selection of folds and quarters as the zenzubel. But his device is somewhat different. In order not to resort to the help of an already fairly forgotten thickness gauge, not to be careful at the beginning of work, the false gobel has interchangeable stepped soles with a metal or wooden ruler on the outside. The ruler will not allow the knife to "drive" the width of the quarter further than required;

- tongue and groove designed for sampling grooves at a given distance from the edge of the board. Removable knives, they set the width of the groove. The distance of the groove from the edge of the board is regulated by nuts that bring the guide closer or further away.For connection in a groove, boards with tongues are needed. This work is donefedergebel , having either a knife with a U-shaped notch, or two blocks with two knives;

- mold is a rather narrow planer for giving the edges of wooden parts a curly profile. Provide the creation of a profile shape figured shape of the sole of the planer and the blade of the knife;

- gruntubel designed for sampling a trapezoidal groove running across the fibers. For preparation, first make a rectangular groove with a hacksaw-award or a chisel, then bring the trapezoidal groove with a grouter. The tool is narrow, the width of the knife does not exceed 12 mm , it is sharpened along two edges that converge upward into sharp corner. Such a connection is the so-called "dovetail";

- hunchback having a curvilinear block. It is designed for transverse planing of convex or concave surfaces, because its sole has either a convex or concave surface.

There are some other types of planers, but they are rarely used. Also, in fairness, it should be noted that many varieties of planers are also made with an iron block, but it is almost impossible to find complete sets.

Electric planers

If you need to perform large amounts of work on simple planing, then the advantages of electric planers over mechanical ones are very significant. On the one hand, the huge speed of the knives passing through the wood greatly increases the productivity of processing. On the other hand, an electric planer brings significant savings, because a processed board costs almost twice as much as an unfinished one.

How is planing done? The electric motor, thanks to the belt, transmits rotational motion to the drum. Double-sided knives are fixed on the drum, which remove the wood. In order for the planing to be clean, without nicks and hooks, the drum rotation speed must be more than 1200 rpm. Knives at this speed can easily cut not only simple wood, but also glued, as well as plastic. In case of deterioration of work, the knives are removed and put back, but on the other side. The aluminum alloy sole is divided into two parts: one before and one after the drum. The back part goes along the already planed surface, the front part does not. So here it ishow much the front handle raises (adjusts) the rise of the front of the sole, this will be the depth of the cut. The chips are ejected through the side channel, which protects the face and eyes from injury. In the accessories included in the package, there is an additional stop, by screwing it to the electric planer, you can choose a quarter.

The performance of an electric planer depends on the following characteristics:

• - engine power;
• - drum rotation speed;
• - depth of planing;
• - drum width.

Spontaneous switching on of the electric planer is excluded, since the switch has an additional lock, so to turn it on, you will definitely have to simultaneously press the bracket and the button. But, anyway, since the tool is electric and high-speed, it is necessary to follow increased safety rules.

1. 1. Before work, you need to check if the power cord is intact.
2. 2. Protective goggles and gloves should be used when working.
3. 3. It is necessary to securely fix the workpiece.
4. 4. Do not press on the front handle: there is an extra load and the possibility of knocking down the planing depth adjustment.
5. 5. Work better along the fibers.

Causes of poor quality planer work

Often, marriage in wood processing occurs not through the fault of the planer, but due to inept actions. Here are some examples.

At the beginning of the planing of the workpiece, the back of the sole hangs in the air, at the end - the front. The position of the planer is skewed, as a result of which the beginning and end are planed more than the middle. The counteraction to this is simple - to put pressure on the side of the planer that is on the board, to support and guide the one that is on weight. A similar blunder can also occur in the middle of the board, however, already with the side edges, if you do not follow the position of the planer relative to its longitudinal axis.

You should not try to rip off thick chips to speed up, it is better to walk a couple of times, otherwise you can completely screw up the part with scuffs. Also, in order to avoid scuffing, it is necessary to follow the direction of the wood fibers: if you cut against the fibers, then scuffing cannot be avoided either.

If the end is planed, then, in order to avoid scuffing, it is necessary to plan first from one edge to the middle, then in the same way from the second.

Wherever a board is located: in the floor, in a door or in furniture - in a planed state it is much more aesthetic, safer and more beautiful than an unplaned one. This is also necessary for its durability, since the treatment of the board with an antiseptic, drying oil, varnish or paint is advisable only after planing the board. Circular from a manual circular saw