Planer for working with curves. Plow types. Planer with double blade

A planer is a device for planing wood. Most often, this tool is manual. With the help of a planer, the surface is given the necessary roughness, flatness, straightness. Reduce the dimensions of products or make long recesses in them. The work of a planer is to remove chips of a specific thickness during each pass over the surface of the workpiece.

The main components of a planer are:

• block
• wedge.

By size, purpose, equipment accessories there are many types of planers. However, there are only two modifications:

• manual (mechanical) - can be plastic, metal, wooden or combined. All of them differ little in their functionality, however, technical indicators directly depend on the material of manufacture of the case.
• electric - due to the additional equipment with an electric motor, such a tool can perform a large amount of work at a high processing speed.

A handmade planer made of wood is the most popular option for woodworking among home craftsmen.

Classification

Planing of wood can be flat or figured. The following types of planers are intended for flat planing:

• single planes. They are necessary for the implementation of the procedure for leveling the wood surface. They have a straight blade with a slightly rounded edge. After working with such a tool, there are no burrs and irregularities, for this reason it is actively used for fine planing of wood after rough processing.
• miter planer, in addition to processing the ends, is used for finishing wood alignment. In this device, in addition to the blade, there is also a chip breaking knife
• Sherhebel, unlike the previous versions, has a rounded blade located at an angle of 45 ° to the sole. Due to the presence of an oval-shaped edge, it is possible to process wooden material across the fibers. In order to remove thick chips, the hole for its exit in this tool is 3-5 mm higher than in other options. After this device, a rough surface remains, which must be modified with a jointer
• grinder. Such unusual name wears a sanding planer that has a double blade and a chipbreaker set at a 50° angle to the work sole. Such a device is excellent for the grinding procedure. At the end of the work, an absolutely smooth surface remains.
• jointer is necessary for leveling the edge and plane, and it provides the finishing of large surfaces thanks to a sharp knife with a chipbreaker and an elongated block. This tool should be in every workshop where woodworking is done.
• tsinubeli. Such planers have a single serrated knife, which, after moving through wood or plywood, leaves behind a corrugated surface. It is this surface that is ideal for gluing. furrows, created by the cutter, guarantee better adhesion of the parts to which the adhesive is applied
• peeling planes are necessary in the process of leveling the ends on gypsum boards. After using this device, no need to sand sheet material. The cutting element is created in the form of a grater

In the process of curly planing, planers are used, which are designed to process grooves, protrusions and edges. Such tools can cope with the most difficult tasks, for this reason they are quite in demand in the woodworking industry. For curly planing, the following types of planers are used:

• zenzubel is designed in such a way that it can be used to select and trim quarters, create rectangular cuts, grooves and folds. In addition, they are not suitable for planing perpendicular workpiece elements. The zenzubel cutter has the shape of a blade, the edge of which can be straight or oblique. It all depends on the option of fastening the edge in relation to the sole. Zenzubels form a groove " dovetail". Even when working across the fibers, a perfectly smooth surface is obtained.
• cantenhobels. This type of planer is an edge picker that easily handles chamfering, finishing ends and edges to give them a smooth surface. In addition, such a planer will help to fine-tune the specified dimensions. The main difference between the Katenhobel is the trapezoidal shape of the blade. Some models are equipped with two cutting elements located at an angle to the side of the sole
• tongue and groove can be called a common type of planer. It will help to quickly and efficiently create a longitudinal groove. The paznik has two pads, which are interconnected by screws, one of the pads is a guide, and the second one secures the blade. With an adjustable stop, the edge of the groove can be set at a specific distance from the edge. Thrust lug guarantees penetration to the required depth without the risk of bending the blade
• federgubel is a figured end plane, the task of which is to form a longitudinal protrusion along the edge of the workpiece. This work is provided special form blade, in the center of which there is an opening. In the process of working with such a tool, a kind of ridge remains on the surface, which in the future will be docked with a groove for connecting two parts.
• Kalevka has an unusual replaceable blade with a curly cutting edge. In addition, there is a multi-stage sole. Most often, this device is used in the process of creating decorative details, for example, cornices, baguettes and others. wooden elements serving as interior decoration
• Falzgebel will help create a groove along the edge of the workpiece without prior marking. Like the kalevka, there is a multi-step sole. The tool has a wide block, as a result of which it is possible to create grooves of the same size. If it becomes necessary to process the vertical wall of the quarter, an additional side cutter is placed on the folded edge
• staples. Such a tool is needed to form round edges of the part. This planer is equipped with a blade, the edge of which has a semicircular recess. Based design features, shtap has a concave sole. During edging of rectangular ends, the knife removes chips so that the edge becomes rounded.

Knife for hand planer

A manual wood planer cannot work without a knife. Such knives function in conditions of significant loads on the blade. During the reciprocating movement of the tool, the knife cuts into the wood to a specific depth. Since wood is not plastic, a certain layer is chipped and chips are formed. The chips do not have a significant length and quickly split into smaller fractions. This is observed during the “crawling” of the wood cut from the blank onto the inclined edge of the blade. During the next movement of the planer, a crack is formed in the subsequent layer, and so on.

The smaller the span and the depth of planing, the smoother and cleaner the surface of the workpiece is, at the same time, the shear load on the blade is reduced.

Due to the fact that the chips break off when bending upwards, the highest stresses are created in the block of the planer. That is why the block is created from the hardest grades of timber.

The knife has a working and a supporting part. In the configuration of the working part of the knife, there are:

• chamfer formed on the back of the blade. The chamfer guarantees a decrease in the force of cutting the knife into the tree due to the elimination of friction of the back of the workpiece material
• front corner. It most often coincides with the accepted inclination of the knife in the planer body.
• bevel clearance angle
• working angle of sharpening. It is equal to the difference between the angle of the chamfer and the angle of the knife in the planer.
• For the durability of the planer, the most important is the rake angle: it is he who ensures the smoothness of the planed surface, the conditions for removing chips from the processing zone, as well as the load on the blade itself.

The working edge of the knife is a rib with a small radius of curvature. Before proceeding with sharpening, you need to visually check the integrity of the edge: it should not have metal tears. If such defects are present, then the knife will have to be shortened.

To minimize the radius of curvature on the edge, sharpening should be carried out in two stages. Initially, primary sharpening is carried out. To do this, a blunt knife from the chamfer side must be brought to the periphery of the grinding wheel and pressed firmly. The number of revolutions of the grinder should be at the level of 600 - 700 min-1. Otherwise, too much metal will be removed. It is also important not to overdo it with pressing, because blue-violet tints can form on the steel, which are an unpleasant sign of metal tempering. The hardness of the knife will decrease, and there will be a need for heat treatment to restore the strength characteristics of the material.

If there is no grindstone, you can do this. Sharpen the knife with a coarse-grained whetstone, which must be fixed on a workbench. Sharpening is performed by circular movements of the chamfer along the surface of the bar. During this work, it is worth moistening the knife from time to time with water or soapy water for cleaning the surface to be sharpened and cooling the tool.

When you see burrs, then you can proceed to the second stage of sharpening with a finer-grained bar that removes those same burrs. The gradation of the bars by grain size looks like this:

• high grain size from 30 to 180 microns. Such bars are made of silicon carbide or corundum.
• average granularity from 7 to 20 microns. Such bars are created from electrocorundum or chromium dioxide.
• small grain size from 3 to 5 microns. Such material is used for finishing sharpening knives.

At the end of sharpening with a knife blade, you need to draw a piece of hard wood. He will finally remove the fragments of the burr.

A hand planer is a woodworking tool that has long been used for planing. To this day, he does not lose popularity in private workshops. With this device, you can give the wooden surface the desired roughness, flatness, straightness or shape, reducing the size of the parts. A planer is also used for making extended grooves, which can have different shapes - these can be tongues or quarters.

Description

The hand planer is no longer so popular today, it is being replaced by tools that are powered by electricity and can meet the needs of mass production. Today, automated lines run everything. However, if you want to make a stool or chair in your garage, then you can think of the good old planer.

Its main parts are:

• piece of iron (knife);
• wedge;
• block.

Depending on the equipment, purpose and size of additional devices, the planer can be divided into many types and subspecies. Mechanical planers are made of metal, plastic, and a combination of these materials. In terms of functionality, they are almost the same, but specifications depend on the material that forms the basis of the case.

Electric models are supplemented with an engine that provides a more impressive amount of work. With this tool, you can achieve high speed wood processing. One of the most popular household woodworking products today are wooden planers.

The main types of planers and their purpose

A hand planer can be classified according to the type of planing: it can be profiled or flat. These tools are also divided according to the profile, the size of the pads and the angle of the knife. Among other varieties, one can single out a sherhebel, which is a tool for rough planing. It has a flat sole pad and has rounded cutter blades.

If you have a device with two handles and an elongated body, then this is a bear. It has the appearance of a single or double planer, which is intended for rough planing. Additionally, the tool is supplied with a chip breaker.

A manual planer can be represented by a semi-joiner or a jointer, the difference of which is a long large block. It is intended for fine planing, fitting parts, planing of large planes, during which a ruler is used.

If extra-clean planing is required, a grinder is used, which has a double knife. It has a chipbreaker in its design, and the double knife is set at an impressive angle, which is 50° instead of 45°. To create small tracks on the surface, a cynubel is used, after processing with which the parts can be glued together.

To select quarters, a selector is used, which is also called a zenzubel. For stripping quarters, a false heel is used, while a sheet pile can be used to select a sheet pile. The scraping of surfaces is carried out using a tool of the same name, and the operation is a finish before applying primers. A distinctive feature of these works is the absence of abrasive particles that remain inside the wood during grinding.

However, scraping has a drawback, which is expressed in the excessive complexity of the operation. The advantage can be called a flat surface and fineness of the chips. To process curly edges, a moulder is used, while an American or a hunchback has a curvilinear block. It is used for curved surfaces, which can be concave or convex.

To give the details a rounded shape, a headstock is used. The knife edge of this tool has a concave shape, while the fillets are convex.

Additional types

A screw is narrower than a sherhebel. It is intended for surface treatment at the initial stage. This planer has an iron cutter that is not straight. It has a rounded shape, so when planing it is possible to obtain long grooves.

To form a trapezoidal phase, a primer is used. With this tool, wood is processed across the grain. The design of the tool has pads and cutters that look like a pointed hook.

A more detailed description of the sherhebel

If we consider the carpentry tool more closely, then we can pay attention to the features of the sherhebel. It represents heavy artillery among a variety of similar devices. It is used when planing material that has not been processed before. This device is quite heavy and massive, as it has a metal case.

Its main purpose is primary processing, after which products acquire desired shape and sizes. This is used for planing to an impressive depth, when it is necessary to remove a rather thick layer of wood. With the help of a sherhebel, achieve a smooth and smooth surface Not sure it's going to happen. For this, other types of planers are used. In appearance, its design resembles an ordinary planer, but the piece of iron in it is set at an angle of 45 ° and has rounded blades.

Processing features

In one pass, using the described tool, you can remove a layer of up to 3 mm. In those places where the wood was processed, rather deep hollows remain, so they have to be leveled in the future. Scherhebel has an oval-shaped cutting edge, so it can be used to process wood across the grain. The sharpening angle may vary, depending on the hardness of the wood.

Description of the professional planer brand Groz 39701

This planer (manual professional) is a fairly popular model. It has a length of 260 mm and a weight of 1.7 kg. The cutting width is 50 mm. The tool is of high quality, has a solid strong base, which is made of gray cast iron. Tool steel forms the basis of the blade, which is removed and has long term use.

The hardness of the material is equal to the limit of 50-60HRC, it contains a high amount of chromium. The tool has been ground for predictable, consistent and sharp results and is manufactured with the utmost precision. This planer for wood (manual), according to consumers, has only one drawback, which is that when it hits a nail, the blade suffers significantly.

Description of the Zubr brand mini-planer

If you are interested in a manual mini-planer, then you can consider the Zubr model, the body of which is made of high-quality gray cast iron. The blade is made of U8A steel and complies with state standards. It provides the possibility of multiple refinement working surface. This manual planer, the price of which is 970 rubles, has plastic at the base of the handle. The length of the sole is 250 mm while the width is 50 mm.

Conclusion

You can purchase a knife for a manual planer additionally, its cost is 198 rubles. But when choosing the main device, you need to pay attention to the presence of a chipbreaker, which is also called a humpback. Its lower edge is parallel to the cutting edge of the knife. The distance between these elements can vary from 0.2 to 2 mm. The closer the bottom edge is, the wider the planing.

When choosing a tool, you must also consider what stage of wood processing it is intended for. For example, a double planer is used for finishing - it can be used to clean out scuffs. If you direct the double planer at an angle of 40 ° to the longitudinal axis, then with the help of the tool it will be possible to plan the ends of the workpieces.

Children acutely feel the untruth, and therefore almost everyone calls the planer a "planer". Planer is a non-Russian word that does not touch the cabin in any way. Raubank from German. Rau (rough) and lat. bank (bench). It was the Russian language that brought the consonances closer, anyway, both the Russian and the German word are associated with a wood tool that removes excess from the tree with a sharp metal blade.

Planes, their types and varieties

A planer is a hand tool for planing wood. Thing in carpentry(and in general in the economy) necessary, removing roughness from the processed wood, creating rectilinear planes, reducing the size, creating relief (grooves, spikes, figured profiles of skirting boards, etc.). The tool has been used since antiquity, but planes were found in the ashes of Pompeii, and their volcano "covered" almost two thousand years ago. Of course, during this time, planers have changed in many ways, their new modifications and varieties have appeared.

Now planers, almost like any other hand tool, are divided into:

• - mechanical;
• - electrical.

In turn, mechanical ones are divided according to the material from which the tool is made:

The plastic planer is the lightest among all the other brothers. Sometimes its body is made classically, that is, the shape resembles wood or metal. There are several blades on its sole. The fact is that they often perform peeling and grinding work not only on wood, but also on drywall. Many models feature quick-change cutting edges along with the sole to adjust the size and cleanliness of the cut.

A metal planer is similar in principle to a wooden planer, but there are several fundamental differences in the device. It consists of a metal body-block, front and rear handles (made of wood or plastic), a clamp with a screw and a knife. There is a notch in the sole, that is, a slot through which the knife blade comes out. The knife is fixed with a screw passing through the clamp. By loosening the clamping screw, the knife output can be increased or decreased, thus adjusting the chip thickness (fineness of work). Craftsmen usually use an iron planer when they feel sorry for a wooden one, that is, for more rough or uncomfortable work (for example, you need to cut the butt).

There are so many varieties of wooden planers that it is worth paying special attention to them.

wooden planers

There are many varieties, why? The fact is that plastic planers have appeared quite recently. And the first metal planer was patented by the British only in 1820. And they built from wood, and how they built it, everywhere. And it was necessary not only to hew a log or plan a board. It was necessary to have boards with a figured profile for finishing work, for the tightness of the jointsit was necessary to choose a quarter, cut a tongue and groove, etc.

So, because of the profile or flat view planing, due to the size of the block, and this characteristic allows you to maintain a flat plane during operation (the larger the size, the better), due to the angle of the cutter and the type of profile, varieties of planers are distinguished. Here are the main ones:

- sherhebel (shershebel) , whose large cutter has a slightly rounded blade, is used for rough flat planing, both along and across the fibers. Due to this shape, the blade leaves grooves behind itself, but in one pass they can remove up to three millimeters of wood. We can say that this tool is used for the primary processing of large wooden parts;

- bear - a long planer with two handles.They are operated by two people, sittingfacing each other right on the log. This planer can be either single or double. Medvedka is also a rather rough tool, it is also often called a chipbreaker (although the chip breaking function is inherent in many planers);

- jointer used for final finishing of long boards. Its purpose is to smooth and level large surfaces, therefore it is three times longer than a planer. It is used most often when it is necessary to finely process the surfaces to be joined.In front of the jointer there is a device that allows you to remove a knife from the notch with a mallet.

- Semi-jointed occupies an intermediate position in size between a planer and a jointer, respectively, it processes smaller surfaces than a jointer;

- sander is a shortened planer, often with two knives. The tool cleans the ends, sagging and scuffing, while clean planing is performed. Thus, clean and fine planing or planing of problematic or hard-to-reach places on wood is the prerogative of the sander;

- cynubel - also a shortened planer, but it has a knife with fine teeth. Its purpose is to specifically create grooves and roughness on wood for subsequent gluing. Irregularities increase the contact area, and the glue will hold much better. Especially such corrugation is necessary for hard rocks, where the glue does not penetrate well into the surfaces to be glued due to the absence of microcracks in the wood;

- zenzubel, orselector , is intended for sampling quarters, folds, as well as their stripping. Before working with a thickness gauge, you need to draw a line that will indicate how wide the quarter will be selected. The first time the zenzubel knife is held carefully so as not to go beyond the line. When at least a small depression appears, you can work bolder and faster;

- false tapestries performs, in principle, the same work on the selection of folds and quarters as the zenzubel. But his device is somewhat different. In order not to resort to the help of an already fairly forgotten thickness gauge, not to be careful at the beginning of work, the false gobel has interchangeable stepped soles with a metal or wooden ruler on the outside. The ruler will not allow the knife to "drive" the width of the quarter further than required;

- tongue and groove designed for sampling grooves at a given distance from the edge of the board. Removable knives, they set the width of the groove. The distance of the groove from the edge of the board is regulated by nuts that bring the guide closer or further away.For connection in a groove, boards with tongues are needed. This work is donefedergebel , having either a knife with a U-shaped notch, or two blocks with two knives;

- mold is a rather narrow planer for giving the edges of wooden parts a curly profile. Provide the creation of a profile shape figured shape of the sole of the planer and the blade of the knife;

- gruntubel designed for sampling a trapezoidal groove running across the fibers. For preparation, first make a rectangular groove with a hacksaw-award or a chisel, then bring the trapezoidal groove with a grouter. The tool is narrow, the width of the knife does not exceed 12 mm , it is sharpened along two edges that converge upward into sharp corner. Such a connection is the so-called "dovetail";

- hunchback having a curvilinear block. It is designed for transverse planing of convex or concave surfaces, because its sole has either a convex or concave surface.

There are some other types of planers, but they are rarely used. Also, in fairness, it should be noted that many varieties of planers are also made with an iron block, but it is almost impossible to find complete sets.

Electric planers

If you need to perform large amounts of work on simple planing, then the advantages of electric planers over mechanical ones are very significant. On the one hand, the huge speed of the knives passing through the wood greatly increases the productivity of processing. On the other hand, an electric planer brings significant savings, because a processed board costs almost twice as much as an unfinished one.

How is planing done? The electric motor, thanks to the belt, transmits rotational motion to the drum. Double-sided knives are fixed on the drum, which remove the wood. In order for the planing to be clean, without nicks and hooks, the drum rotation speed must be more than 1200 rpm. Knives at this speed can easily cut not only simple wood, but also glued, as well as plastic. In case of deterioration of work, the knives are removed and put back, but on the other side. The aluminum alloy sole is divided into two parts: one before and one after the drum. The back part goes along the already planed surface, the front part does not. So here it ishow much the front handle raises (adjusts) the rise of the front of the sole, this will be the depth of the cut. The chips are ejected through the side channel, which protects the face and eyes from injury. In the accessories included in the package, there is an additional stop, by screwing it to the electric planer, you can choose a quarter.

The performance of an electric planer depends on the following characteristics:

• - engine power;
• - drum rotation speed;
• - depth of planing;
• - drum width.

Spontaneous switching on of the electric planer is excluded, since the switch has an additional lock, so to turn it on, you will definitely have to simultaneously press the bracket and the button. But, anyway, since the tool is electric and high-speed, it is necessary to follow increased safety rules.

1. 1. Before work, you need to check if the power cord is intact.
2. 2. Protective goggles and gloves should be used when working.
3. 3. It is necessary to securely fix the workpiece.
4. 4. Do not press on the front handle: there is an extra load and the possibility of knocking down the planing depth adjustment.
5. 5. Work better along the fibers.

Causes of poor quality planer work

Often, marriage in wood processing occurs not through the fault of the planer, but due to inept actions. Here are some examples.

At the beginning of the planing of the workpiece, the back of the sole hangs in the air, at the end - the front. The position of the planer is skewed, as a result of which the beginning and end are planed more than the middle. The counteraction to this is simple - to put pressure on the side of the planer that is on the board, to support and guide the one that is on weight. A similar blunder can also occur in the middle of the board, however, already with the side edges, if you do not follow the position of the planer relative to its longitudinal axis.

You should not try to rip off thick chips to speed up, it is better to walk a couple of times, otherwise you can completely screw up the part with scuffs. Also, in order to avoid scuffing, it is necessary to follow the direction of the wood fibers: if you cut against the fibers, then scuffing cannot be avoided either.

If the end is planed, then, in order to avoid scuffing, it is necessary to plan first from one edge to the middle, then in the same way from the second.

Wherever a board is located: in the floor, in a door or in furniture - in a planed state it is much more aesthetic, safer and more beautiful than an unplaned one. This is also necessary for its durability, since the treatment of the board with an antiseptic, drying oil, varnish or paint is advisable only after planing the board. Circular from a manual circular saw

Despite the wide range of electric planers offered by stores, ordinary carpenters are still quite popular with carpenters. hand tools. The fact is that with their help, wood processing can be done somewhat better. Most often, modern carpenters have both types in stock, they are used for the initial processing of workpieces, and manual use is used for their finishing.

Design features

To know how to choose a good hand planer, you should have an idea about its design. Such tools consist of the following main parts:

Frame. This structural element is most often made of wood. It is in it that all the main components of the planer are attached.

Knife. Sharpened at a certain angle.

Clamp. Can be performed from different materials. It can be a metal plate or a bar.

Chip breaker. It is mounted slightly above the knife. As you can already judge by the name of this element, it serves to break chips and guide them.

Adjusting screw. This structural element is responsible for changing the position of the knife relative to the surface to be treated.

All universal hand planers for wood have this design. The basic elements described above are also present in other, specialized varieties. On the body of any planer, among other things, there are two handles.

What to look for when choosing

The main structural element of the planer is the knife. It is on its quality that you should pay attention first of all. This element must be made of high quality steel. In this case, the planer can be used as long as possible without the need for sharpening. Of course, it is visually difficult to determine how successful the material was chosen for the planer knife. Therefore, first of all, you should pay attention to the reputation of the manufacturer.

Of course, in no case should not stagger. When buying, it is worth checking the front handle. She must also hold on tight. In addition, when choosing a planer, you should pay attention to the dimensions of the handle for right hand. The length of this element varies. A tool with a small handle may simply not be suitable for a person with large brushes.

Varieties

Of course, you should choose a manual planer, based on the specific purpose for which it will be intended. There are several types of planers on the market today. The most sought after are:

Universal. This is a regular planer that can do most carpentry work.

Jointer. The body of this instrument is longer than that of a conventional one. A jointer is used for processing dimensional workpieces.

End planer. The knife of such a tool is located at a more gentle angle. This allows high-quality processing of the end fiber.

Zenzubel. Planer of this variety is used mainly for sampling different kind and fakes.

Planer Brand Reviews

On the modern market, this type is sold from different manufacturers. Many brands are of very good quality. Good feedback craftsmen, for example, deserve the planes of companies such as Bailey and Handyman. Bailey tools are valued primarily for the excellent quality of their knives and long term services. Sharpening a knife of a manual planer of this brand is quite rare. Sometimes there are comments that mention a not very high-quality assembly. But even if any flaws are found in the purchased tool, they can usually be easily and quickly eliminated, and on your own. Handyman planers, judging by the reviews, are also comfortable and reliable. Their only drawback is not too neat design.

Do not advise experienced craftsmen purchase Groz brand products (India). Despite the fact that the products of this brand are classified as expensive, especially good quality they don't seem to differ from the reviews. Their build quality is simply disgusting, and at the same time they are inconvenient to work with.

How to use

Hand planers for wood are simple in design, and they are quite easy to use. The main thing is to do the work smoothly, without jerking. This is especially true for very long workpieces. Under this condition, the surface finished product it will turn out very neat and even. When planing, you should stand on the side of the workpiece, putting one foot forward.

The top and bottom surfaces of the products are very easy to process. Somewhat more difficult to work on the edges. In this case, it is important to fasten the knife very firmly. It should not vibrate in the block in any case. Planing edges should be done exclusively in the direction of the fibers.

There is also a technique that allows high-quality processing of very wide workpieces. In this case, the product is first stretched with a planer diagonally, adhering to the direction of the fibers. Next, the plane is checked for evenness using a special ruler. On final stage finishing is performed. In this case, a thin layer of chips is removed from the workpiece parallel to the edge.

How to sharpen a knife

Of course, a hand planer, like any other tool, requires some care. No matter how good steel the knife of this tool is made of, sooner or later it will become dull anyway, and it will have to be sharpened. Most often, this procedure is performed on a special stone called a donkey. The latter is pre-wetted with water. When sharpening, it is desirable to moisten the knife itself. Press it against the stone as tightly as possible.

The angle of sharpening a manual planer may vary depending on the model. Most often, this figure is 30 degrees. When working on a whetstone, one usually simply pays attention to how the blade was sharpened initially.

Sometimes experienced carpenters sharpen the planer knife on the wheel as well. In this case, it should not be pressed against the edge, but against the side surface. When using a circle, you can also get a pretty high-quality sharpening. A hand planer with such a knife will be very convenient to use. But only under the condition of using abrasive fine-grained abrasive wheel. After sharpening on such a tool, finishing is usually performed. This procedure is performed either on a piece of sandpaper fixed on the table, or on a bar. Checking the quality of sharpening is quite easy. To do this, you just need to carefully examine the blade. If it does not shine, then the knife is sharp enough to be used.

How to set up a hand planer correctly

To perform this procedure, you will need a special screwdriver. Such tools are designed for setting exactly planers. Their distinctive feature is a large width and a small length. The main purpose of the planer adjustment is to set the amount of blade exit above the surface of the sole. If the knife protrudes too far, the planer will begin to remove very thick chips. A slightly exposed blade will simply slide over the surface of the wood.

For the initial processing of workpieces, the knife exit index should be about 0.5 mm. If the planer is to be used for finishing, the blade should protrude a little less from the sole.

How to store

Experienced craftsmen believe that the knife for a hand planer becomes dull, for the most part not even during operation, but due to improper storage. After the planing of the workpieces, this tool should be cleaned of chips and put in a box specially designed for it. In this case, the position of the tool should be such that the knife blade protruding from the body is not at the bottom, but on the side.

If the hand planer is going to be stored for a very long time, it must be taken apart and thoroughly cleaned before being put into the box. Knives and other metal parts should be wiped with an oiled rag.

Even now it is difficult to imagine the performance of any private carpentry work without the use of specialized tools, such as planer,jointer,sherhebel and other special devices. Each of these types of instrument has its own unique character. Yes, now this tool is a thing of the past, it is being replaced by mass production, where automated lines run everything, whether one of you makes stools in your garage, but it's time to remember the lessons of labor, and pay tribute to the good old planers!

Among the existing modifications are:

• manual (mechanical)- made from plastic, metal, wood, or combinations thereof - they differ little in their functionality, but the technical characteristics directly depend on the material of manufacture of the construction tool body;
• electrical– thanks to additional equipment electric motor allow you to perform large volumes of work at high processing speed.

The greatest popularity in the processing of wood in the home has received wooden planers.

Pioneers in woodworking

The most prominent representatives of hand carpentry tools are:

• Sherhebel- a real "heavy artillery" among the whole variety of carpentry tools. It is widely used when planing wood that has not previously been processed. This is a fairly massive and heavy device with a metal case. The main purpose is rough primary processing to obtain products of the required size (shape) and planing to a great depth to remove a thick layer of wood. To achieve a flat and smooth surface with the help of a sherhebel will not work. For these purposes, other types of planers are often used. The design of the instrument resembles appearance an ordinary planer, but the sherhebel iron is set at an angle of 45 degrees with respect to the sole and has a rounded blade. At one time the tool removes a layer up to 3 mm. At the same time, deep hollows remain in the places where the sherhebel is processed, which require further alignment. Thanks to the equipment of the sherhebel with an oval cutting edge, it is possible to plan the wood across its fibers without a preliminary longitudinal break. Depending on the hardness of the wood being processed, the sharpening angle of the sherhebel may vary;

What is the difference between a sherhebel and a planer?

In fact, a sherhebel is the same planer, only intended for rough processing of wood. The sherhebel differs from the planer in the semicircular sharpening of the blade, as well as its width - the sherhebel has a smaller blade than the planer. At the same time, it protrudes from the block by 2-3 mm.

• Jointer- hand planer with double cutter. The purpose of the device is the final and precise processing of wood when leveling a plane of a significant volume due to a longer block, as well as for edge jointing. On average, the length of the block can exceed the size of a standard planer by 2-3 times. The jointer knife is equipped with a chip breaker and a handle to facilitate the work with the device. The jointer can be produced both with a single and a double knife.

What is the difference between a jointer and a planer?

The main difference between a jointer and a planer is the number of blades: a planer has one, and a jointer has two. The very structure of the jointer construction is not much different from the planer, but its body is much longer. Thanks to this, with the help of a planer, you can process a much larger area in less time than with a planer.

According to existing classification carpentry tools for woodworking are conventionally divided into:

• plane planers;
• shaped planers

The main types of flat planers

• Semi-jointed- a shortened version of the jointer, since it is significantly inferior to its size. The block or sole of the semi-joiner reaches 60 cm, and the width of the cutter is up to 8 cm, like the jointer. Its purpose is planing large parts made of wood.

• Medvedka- unlike conventional types of planers, it has paired side transverse handles, a large width and length. The piece of iron in such a tool is held by a special wedge. As a rule, two people work with a bear, while holding the handles together. Such a bear is used when planing large areas of wood, for example, boards outer skin houses, ceilings or floors. Medvedka removes a 1mm layer of wood.

• sander– designed for the final cleaning of wooden surfaces and the correction of defects that have arisen after the previous planing. With the help of a grinder, places are cleaned around knots, ends, irregular structure of wood, etc. The knife in such a planer is installed double with a chipbreaker and a straight blade with a knife additive angle of 60 degrees.

• Tsinubel- used to give processed wooden surfaces small roughness, as well as for planing curly wood. This allows the arrangement adhesive bond parts to improve the level of their adhesion. On the knives of the cynubel, grooves are placed, which, when sharpened, form cloves. Thanks to the placement of the knife in the block at an angle of 80 degrees, even twisted wood can be processed without scuffing. In the tsinubel, single knives with a straight serrated blade are installed. The average length of the block is 20 cm, width - 6.5 cm and height - 6.5 cm.

• Face planer- used for planing small surfaces of wood with a confused structure, as well as for processing ends.
• Planer single- used for secondary planing of wood. During operation, the chips are formed without a break, and small chips or scuffs may remain on the surface of the wood.
• Planer double– in addition to installed knife has a chipbreaker that improves the quality of planing.

Types of figure planing planers

• Zenzubel- implies the presence of a double knife, in connection with which the quality of the processed surfaces becomes quite high. The tool is used for cleaning quarters and planing perpendicular surfaces. The width of the knife varies within 33mm, and its shape resembles a spatula. It is in the "closest relationship" with false bele.

• Federgubel- performs longitudinal protrusions along the edge of wooden blanks. It features a special shape of the blade, which forms a rectangular protrusion along the edge of the product.

• Falsebel- cleans quarters. Equipped with single knives of straight or oblique shape. The planer has a stepped sole, which in some models is removable. This allows you to select folds of the required profile and size for the shape of the tree.

• Headquarters or Headquarters- gives wooden details rounded shape by installing concave blades.

• sheet pile– carries out longitudinal grooves along the edges of the workpieces. The planer consists of two blocks, which are interconnected by special iron screws. One of the pads is a guide, and the other is a fixing and holds the knives.

• Mold- the main purpose of this planer: figured processing of wood and giving a special shape to blanks. Most often used in the production of wood cornices, baguettes or doorways. This type of planer has special cutters with curly edges and a multi-stage sole, which is installed depending on the shape of the profile to be obtained.

• Gruntubel- carry out the planing of grooves across the fibers of a trapezoidal section. It is a block into which a pointed hook in the form of a cutter is inserted on the side.

• Gorbach- has a curvilinear block, which allows processing surfaces of a convex or concave shape with internal and external diameters.

In carpentry, you can rarely get by with one type of planer. Indeed, when processing wooden blanks, it is necessary to perform more than one type of operation using various building tools. So, some planers work only in pairs, for example, a federgubel and a tongue and groove. Or planers are used sequentially: for roughing - sherhebel, and for finishing - jointer.