Making a sofa with your own hands (100 ideas): stylish and comfortable interior without extra costs. How to make a sofa with your own hands: options, instructions and assembly diagrams How to make a U-shaped sofa with your own hands

It's always nice to come home and, sitting on a comfortable sofa, enjoy the comfort of home. Sofas are now going out of fashion so quickly that it is better to save significant money and make such furniture at home, especially if the interior space is designed in a restrained style.

The main advantages of independent production of upholstered furniture:

• Saving money. A sofa made independently will cost the owner several times less than one purchased in a store.

• Quality control. When making a sofa yourself, you can carefully select basic and consumable materials, select only high-quality, dried timber, certified foam rubber of suitable density, as well as reliable, beautiful and durable upholstery.

• Wide choice of designs. Before making a sofa with your own hands, it is worth assessing in advance the style of the room in which it will be located and choosing the design of the product in accordance with the interior design of the room.

• Optimal sizes. When planning to make a sofa yourself, its dimensions and shape can be selected taking into account the actual dimensions of the room, fitting it into the free space.

• Change of upholstery during use. Having learned how to carry out assembly work and reupholstery once, you can replace textiles or other covering on the product at any time.

• Pride in the work done. A self-made sofa will always be a source of pride for its owner, which he can boast about to his acquaintances and friends.

Anyone with a low level of training and a certain set of tools can make a simple sofa on their own using assembly diagrams.

What is a sofa bed

In Soviet times, it was enough to say that a sofa bed was needed, and it became clear to everyone what a person needed. Modern sofas, which can also be used as a bed, differ not only in appearance, but also in the way they are transformed.

Type of mechanism	Description and method of transformation
	The mechanism of a simple book can safely be called the oldest, but at the same time the simplest. In order for such a sofa to turn into a bed, it is enough to raise the front part until a characteristic click appears and lower it. To assemble the sofa, the steps are repeated. Among the positive characteristics, we can note the presence of a box for storing linen and the low cost of the mechanism, but there is a significant drawback - you need to make a lot of effort to transform it. A certain distance from the wall must also be maintained for the backrest to be lowered freely, which is not always convenient in small apartments.
	This sofa is an improved “book” model and is distinguished by the fact that the backrest can be installed in an intermediate state, that is, reclining. The transformation mechanism is more expensive, but more functional. When unfolding the sofa, you need to focus on the number of clicks of the backrest locking mechanism - one or two. The size of the department for storing linen depends on the design features.
	The mechanism of such a sofa is very durable, so you don’t have to worry about it wearing out if you unfold it frequently. It unfolds without much effort - just pull the strap, and the front part will slide out, followed by the entire mechanism. After these steps, the sofa can be used as a bed.
	This mechanism is most often used in corner sofas. The transformation mechanism is very simple - there is a retractable part from below, with a soft pillow, which is manually fixed in place. Even a physically weak person can decompose. This sofa does not have a drawer for linen.
	The mechanism of such a sofa is hidden under a soft pillow, which will need to be removed each time before laying it out. After this, the mechanism extends and unfolds. The bed consists of 3 sections, which are not very comfortable to sleep on, so a sofa with such a mechanism is extremely inconvenient for everyday use. It’s better if you have to lay it out occasionally, for example for guests. There is no drawer for linen.
	Unlike the French version, the American version uses a different principle - folding occurs along with the backrest. It’s not at all difficult to unfold – just pull the back towards you. When unfolded, such a sofa bed is more comfortable for sleeping, and the convenience of the layout makes the model more popular.
	A sofa with an accordion mechanism is very comfortable for sleeping, as it is wide and the mattress is flat. Unfolding such a sofa is also not difficult - just lift the seat until a characteristic click appears, and then pull it out. It is during the transformation that it becomes clear why this mechanism is called that - it moves apart like the bellows of an accordion. A sofa with such a mechanism is quite reliable, takes up little space when folded, and it is possible to use drawers for linen.
	“Eurobook” is very reliable, since there are no mechanisms at all. Having pulled out the front part, the back is simply lowered - it is fixed on hinges. It is comfortable to sleep, and there is also a large drawer for linen. To avoid damage flooring legs, they need to be upholstered soft material, nail plastic extensions or install rollers.

Video: how to make a sofa bed

What is a sofa sofa

People sometimes say that they need a sofa sofa. It is important to define what is meant by this name. Now the differences between a sofa, sofa and ottoman are gradually disappearing. For example, on the website of a furniture store there is no division: a sofa, sofa, and ottoman are called sofas, but on another website they sell a sofa-ottoman, calling it a sofa. It will help to understand this issue comparative analysis provided in the table.

Sofa	Sofa
Enough high back, significantly higher than the armrests.	The back is low, made at the same level with the armrests.
The seat is soft and can consist of several pillows.	The seat is flat and very wide, most often solid.
The contours are rounded, emphasizing the elegance of the product.	The shape is angular, without smooth transitions.
High.	Low.
Voluminous and beautiful.	Compact, inelegant.
Multifunctional.	The number of functions is minimal.

Now let's move on directly to the process of making the sofa.

How to make a Chester sofa

To do the job you will need the following tools:

• hand circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• stapler (preferably pneumatic, but if there is no compressor, then you will have to work manually);
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• marker and pencil;
• ruler and tape measure.

This standard set of tools will be necessary when making any sofa.

So, you should prepare all the blanks and cut grooves into them in accordance with the presented sketches.

The assembly diagram is presented with a series of photographs, sequentially showing the stages of the work.

Inserting the workpieces into the pre-sawed grooves, we secure them with self-tapping screws.

First, crossbars coated with PVA glue are attached to the racks.

The holders are screwed to the rail with self-tapping screws and fixed with brackets, after which the part is fixed to the frame.

The armrests and the front part of the sofa are upholstered with fiberboard.

We draw a center line and mark 14.5 cm on it - this is how the markings are made for the buttons, which will then be installed. Then using feather drill Holes are drilled in the marked places.

After covering it with fabric, we begin gluing the foam rubber to the frame. In those places where gluing is inconvenient, you can shoot the foam rubber with a stapler.

Now let's draw up two sketches, taking the necessary measurements.

First, measure the distance from the top button to the side bar. We do the same with the back - from the button to the back bar. You also need to measure the distance from the front pillar to the first top button on the armrest. We put all these dimensions into the sketch.

• Size L is the length of the arc from the button to the top bar.
• L+50 is 50 mm to shoot.
• 155 is the distance between the rows.
• These data are not final, as they will still change.
• 195 is the size between the buttons horizontally. On the bar it was 145mm but now has 50mm added for the pleats.
• Each row comes with an offset of 97.5 mm.
• Green shows an edge allowance of 50 mm.
• Bottom distance N this is the distance from the bottom button to the allowance block.

Taking into account all these dimensions, we get the dimensions we need.

In the second picture we see that there is also a distance IN from the front bar to the top extreme button.

After receiving these dimensions, we transfer it all to the fabric.

Now let's make the carriage tie. You can find out how to make it correctly, and how you can do without a press for making buttons, by watching the following video.

Video: correct and incorrect carriage tie

Now we need to make a mattress. To do this, a snake spring is attached to the base, and a dense woven material is placed on top of it. Then a coconut trunk is laid, then 35 (or 42) density foam rubber 10 cm thick. We lay padding polyester on top, and only after that can we start covering the sofa with fabric (or leather).

Such a sofa will be comfortable, beautiful and durable.

By viewing the following slide show, you can watch the assembly process of a similar design.

Video: sofa assembly process

As you have already noticed, the work cannot be called easy, so without experience it will not be easy to make a high-quality Chester sofa.

How to make a corner sofa

Nowadays corner sofas are very popular, but this is not only a tribute to fashion. This design allows you to save space in a small apartment. However, this is not an economical option; such furniture will decorate both small and large rooms.

Video: making a corner sofa in an apartment

In our case, we will consider the process of making a soft sofa for a small apartment. The basis will be chipboard.

As a rule, the size of each sofa is individual, as it is adjusted to the dimensions of the room, but the presented sketch will help you navigate the further work.

In order to get all the details the right size, it is necessary to make a pattern and outline the outline of the workpiece along it. Using a jigsaw, all the parts are cut out using the applied markings, after which you can begin assembling the sofa. Instead of wood screws, it is better to use confirmats, since they are specifically designed for reliable fastening of chipboard parts.

Since our sofa will not be solid, but from two parts, we will assemble them one by one. First, let's take care of the sofa, and then the attached corner part.

We will not dwell on the process of manufacturing the soft part, since this information was presented in the previous section.

As a result, we should get a small sofa like this. Please note that the spacer installed in the middle is recessed enough so that it does not prevent the springs from stretching to their maximum level under the weight of a person.

The back of the attached part of the corner sofa should be a continuation of the main part, but the lower part is made liftable, which allows you to hide bedding inside.

The lower part is made in the form of a box, the lid of which will serve as the soft part of the sofa.

The lid will be maintained in a raised state by a mechanism that also acts as a hinge.

It turned out quite decent and comfortable corner sofa.

What should a sofa be like for a kitchen?

Since even in the same house the sizes of kitchens can vary slightly, it is necessary to determine as accurately as possible the dimensions of the sofa for this room. Since the design is usually simple, it will not be difficult to draw a sketch containing the necessary data.

Particular attention should be paid to the seat height. Your legs will constantly be in an awkward position if the seat is too high or too low. If your height is “non-standard”, you are probably familiar with this problem. In any case, it is better to measure the height of your favorite chair, but you should not forget about other family members.

You can also make a simpler non-folding structure, which is often called a sofa chair.

Video: how to make a corner sofa for the kitchen

How to make a Eurobook sofa

Everyone knows what a sofa book is, but few people know what a Eurobook is. Essentially, this is an improved model of an ordinary folding sofa. The design of this model allows you to install it close to the wall and even in the middle of the room. The method of transformation is also different, since the seat moves forward and the back rests on the free space. Another pleasant feature of the Eurobook is that when unfolded, such a sofa is in no way inferior in comfort to a bed, since there is no deep depression in the middle, and the 2 halves are the same size, almost flat.

There are not so many disadvantages, but one significant one is worth mentioning: when the seat is pulled out, the sofa legs sliding along the floor can scratch and even ruin the floor covering.

Frame assembly

First, we will make frames for the soft parts of the future sofa. To do this, we will need 4 two-meter straight beams without knots 40x40 mm, and from the same beam 14 pieces of 72 cm each.

Sections of bars are screwed to the four bars along the edges - they will play the role of amplifiers. To fix the frame we will use 4.2×70 mm wood screws.

Now you can assemble the frame, but for now use 1 screw per corner.

A sheet of plywood 5 mm thick, prepared to size, is placed on the assembled frame. It needs to be fixed on the narrow part of the frame with self-tapping screws (or staples), and then level the frame and check that the plane of this part is level. Then you can screw the sheet completely.

Now it's time to secure the crossbars. If they are attached to the seat at equal intervals, then one rib should be installed in the back in the center, and 2 - spaced 195 mm from the edge. The rest are attached arbitrarily.

Making a box

For the drawer you need to make 2 guides from 40x40 mm bars. Cuts are made on both sides, reducing the height by 15 mm.

We will use the same 40x40 mm bars as legs. We grind down their corners a little.

First, we will step back 50 mm along the edges from the top of the sidewall, since we have a boss 50 mm high. If you have a different boss, then the distance should be equal to its height.

We screwed the guide, then screwed the legs flush against the guide. The second side is done in exactly the same way.

Then the longitudinal part is taken, the whole thing is laid on flat surface and is twisted with 50 mm screws.

A jumper is screwed to the finished box, and then a plywood bottom.

Having installed the box on the legs, on one side we will make an amplifier for the hinge from a block.

Sofa legs

Now we will make the legs for the sofa. It will be necessary to make two legs for the seat. For this purpose we also use a 40x40 mm block. The length of the leg will be equal to the height of our box from the floor. We retreat 8 cm from the edge and grind down the edges. We treat the edge with stain to make it beautiful. We do the same with the legs and on the box.

If desired, the legs can be upholstered in leather, and a plastic heel can be nailed underneath, which will easily slide across the floor.

So we assembled the frames of the back and seat. We sew the back frame with reverse side Fiberboard. We do not trim the seat frame. In addition, we will screw blocks onto the seat frame, which will act as supports for the legs.

Seat assembly

Now let's start installing the drawer. We take our drawer and lay it flat. Where the blocks pass, you will need to make cuts. We mark a little with reserve the places where the boards will pass. Cutting depth 40 mm.

Having made cuts in the drawer, we install it on the seat and screw it on. The height of the drawer should not be less than 150 mm.

Now the legs are screwed on. Additionally, the fastening can be strengthened with a furniture screw.

We cut out this figure from the remains of plywood. Its size can be arbitrary. Then we cut out exactly the same second figure using it.

Each part is attached with 35 mm screws to the frame and leg.

The remaining fiberboard can be used to smooth out the transition by attaching it with staples.

Now you can start covering.

Drawer lining

We will cover only the front and sides of the box with fabric.

Let's start nailing the fabric from the top of the front wall. Then the side ones.

Having nailed the fabric, a strip of thick cardboard 15 mm wide is nailed on top of it.

The fabric is stretched over the body, the box is turned upside down, and the fabric is secured from below.

Making foam pillows

To complete the work, you will need 3 sheets of foam rubber, with a density of at least 30, 1×2 m in size and 40 mm thick. You will also need a small piece of foam rubber 20 mm thick.

We cut foam rubber for our pillows. To do this, use a sharp knife and a ruler.

We will make a second layer from foam rubber scraps, resulting in a mattress thickness of 80 mm. If the weight of the person who will sleep on this sofa is more than 90 kg, then it is better to use foam rubber with a thickness of 50 mm.

To glue foam rubber, it is best to use glue that is specifically designed for this purpose. You can also use Titan glue, which is sold in hardware stores. It will also glue the foam rubber well, but it will just take a little longer to dry.

And now, the foam rubber is glued. At the back the foam is flush with the base, and on the sides and front it protrudes 2 cm.

The protrusions of the pillow foam are made in such a way that these voids can be sealed with 2 cm thick foam rubber.

Having covered the frame with foam rubber, you can begin further work.

Seat cover

Let's consider 2 options for upholstering the sofa seat. One of them is sewing a cover on a sewing machine. Using another option, you can cover the sofa with a single piece of fabric without using a sewing machine. To do this, the fabric is assembled in the front part with an accordion and nailed in this state. From the back of the pillow, the fabric is simply laid so that the excess is inside, and also nailed.

We will use a ready-made cover with drawstrings sewn to it.

Having pulled the cover over the front part, use wire to pull the rope out through the drilled holes.

The cover is adjusted to the sofa.

Having upholstered the sofa, you can start tightening. Each rope is pulled up from the reverse side so that all points are lowered to the same depth. After adjustment, the edge of the rope is stapled to the bottom of the sofa.

Back upholstery

Now you can start lining the back. Exactly the same as the seat, with inside The foam rubber will be glued along the edge of the back, and its side parts will have a protrusion of 2 cm.

In those places where the mattress protrudes above the base, we glue 4 cm strips of foam rubber 2 cm thick.

We make markings on the top of the pillow for tightening, and cover the bottom with batting.

We do not sheath it all the way to the bottom, since there will be a box there and there is no need for sheathing there. In addition, if you sheathe it to the bottom, it will be inconvenient to install hinges.

Now let's put on the cover.

Having secured the cover to the back, you need to take another piece of fabric and upholster the back part over the trim.

When using a standard cover, the upholstery is done in the same way as the seat upholstery.

Hinge installation and assembly

The middle loop is screwed in the middle using self-tapping screws. When attaching the outer hinges, the lower self-tapping screw goes into the block. The upper holes are secured with screws, since there is no block in that place.

After we have screwed the hinges onto the box, we lay out our sofa in the way it should be when unfolded. That is, we put a box, we put a seat on the box. We push the seat forward as far as possible so that the bosses rest against the front wall.

Why do we lay the backrest in a lying position so that it lies flat next to the seat. You need to measure the distance from the edge of the back to the drawer. In our case it turned out to be 21 centimeters.

Turning the back over, we place the box on it and set the distance that we measured, that is, 21 cm.

Now all that remains is to screw the hinges to the back with self-tapping screws.

At this point, the assembly of the Eurobook is completed, and the product can be used.

Eurobook sofa drawing

Sofa with tick-tock mechanism

The manufacturing process of such a sofa is not much different from similar ones. The main difference is the use of a tick-tock mechanism, the operating principle of which is shown in the video.

Drawing of a tick-tock sofa

Assembling a sofa from pallets

Is it possible to make a sofa out of pallets? Of course, you will answer, adding that it will be in the country house, in the garage or on the veranda, and in most cases this is where products made from pallets are located, but furniture can also be made from this material for a living space.

Depending on the purpose of the sofa, you need to select pallets. So, for making furniture for a cottage or garage, old pallets are suitable, but for a living space it is better to purchase whole, slightly worn pallets.

The process of making a sofa from pallets

Having purchased pallets, the first thing you need to do is inspect them, determining which where will he go. Niches for insert drawers will be cut out in our design. After preparing the pallets, they must be thoroughly sanded.

During the assembly of the sofa, the pallets are fastened with metal plates, which are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Where possible, pallets are rolled directly together.

We also cut out and install armrests from pallets.

To strengthen the fixation of the backrest, spacers are installed on the sides.

Fiberboard is used to cover the bottom, and the armrests and back are upholstered with fabric over laid foam rubber.

Linen drawers will be installed in these niches.

All that remains is to make the soft part. For this purpose, a mattress and 3 pillows were used, for which covers were sewn from the same fabric that was used for the upholstery.

Now the sofa can be used.

The process of making sofas from pallets various designs You can watch it in the video selection.

Video: assembling various sofas from pallets

Photos of sofas made from pallets

Making a sofa from a bathtub

Although such a structure can hardly be called a sofa, the structure still has a right to exist.

So, to make a sofa you need an old cast iron bath, which is time to throw away. The first thing you need to do is clean it of rust and debris.

Now let's unscrew the legs. If the nuts do not budge, then they need to be moistened with kerosene and waited for half an hour. If they still do not unscrew after this, the procedure should be repeated.

Let's start marking the bath. To do this you will need a marker.

Using a grinder, we cut off the unnecessary part according to the markings.

The cut must be processed by rounding the edges.

We will paint the bathtub with blue paint.

Let's make the legs yellow.

When screwing the legs to the bathtub body, use new nuts, not forgetting to add a washer.

In order for the paint to adhere well to the inside of the bathtub, it needs to be sanded.

We will paint the inside with white enamel, but you can choose any color that suits you.

To make the mattress we will use 50 mm thick foam rubber, and we will sew a cover from fabric.

All that remains is to install our mini sofa and put the mattress inside.

Video: how to make a sofa from a bathtub

Use of plastic bottles

Application area plastic bottles very large, right down to the manufacture of furniture. How to make a sofa from these containers is described in detail in the video.

Video: unusual homemade sofas

How to sew a cover

Making the body of a sofa is already a lot, but it is also important to trim it beautifully. Considering the fact that the fabric is expensive and cannot be bought in reserve, it is important to make the right patterns and sew a cover from them.

Which fabric to choose?

Depending on where and under what conditions the sofa will be used, a suitable fabric is selected. Let's look at a few examples.

Where is the sofa	Type of fabric
	In the living room, the sofa is often used, and not only by people living in the apartment. Guests often sit on it while eating, so there is a high probability that a cutlet or a piece of fish in vegetable oil will fall on it. Taking this into account, it is better to use synthetic fabrics, since they practically do not absorb moisture, including fats, and they wash well.
	In the bedroom, the sofa is used to sleep on or just relax. Instead of synthetic fabrics, it is better to use natural materials, or those containing at least 50% natural fibers. Flock is often used, as this type of fabric is durable, does not cause allergies and does not lint.
	If you are concerned about your child's health, it is better to use cotton fabrics that do not cause allergies. This type of cladding has one significant drawback - it gets dirty easily, which makes it impractical. The quality of the fabric can be improved by using Teflon impregnation.
	In the area where you regularly eat, there is a high probability of soiling the sofa upholstery food products. Using fabric is impractical and unprofitable, so it is better to use high-quality leatherette, which is made specifically for these purposes. Low-quality leatherette will very soon begin to peel off from the base.

How to cut

When repairing an old sofa, you can use the removed fabric as a pattern, but when upholstering a new sofa you will have to cut it yourself. How to make the right pattern?

Covering with a single piece of fabric

This technology has already been briefly mentioned in the article, but now we will describe the entire process in detail. For example, we will use a sofa seat and instead of a single piece of fabric, we will demonstrate it using a piece that was left after sewing the cover.

So, in order to upholster a separate element of upholstered furniture, you need to cut a piece of fabric that could be used to wrap the piece so that the edges can be secured from below.

Having stretched the fabric onto the parts, it needs to be stapled in front and behind. Then the hanging corner at the front is pulled tight and secured at the bottom. The fabric is laid out in folds so that they converge at one point and nailed with staples.

The back of the seat will be turned towards the wall, so you can not lay it out, but simply fold it, leaving the excess inside, and secure it in this state.

Sewing a cover for a non-folding sofa

The described technology will allow an inexperienced person to cut and sew a cover not only for a new, but also for an old sofa.

Sewing this cover took 3.5 meters of fabric and a spool of thread.

So, you need to throw the fabric on the sofa, wrong side up, positioning it in the same way as the finished case will be located.

We will put marks so that we can then cut the fabric according to them.

In these places we cut the fabric all the way to the sofa.

The seat piece needs to be fastened to the back fabric.

Using needles, you need to pin the fabric along all the supposed seams. Instead of needles, you can use pins or sew with a basting stitch.

Having fastened all parts of the cover, remove it.

After basting the seams, put the cover on the sofa - it should fit without much effort, fitting the product being covered. If it turns out to be too tight or too loose, then this needs to be corrected by removing it.

Now you can sew the cover.

Then a frill is sewn onto it. If the cover is intended for upholstery of a sofa, then there is no need to sew on the frill, as it will be inconvenient to fix the fabric. The frill can be nailed on later if the need arises.

The result is such a cute sofa. Based on this example, you can cover any sofa, but for a new one it is better to sew separate covers for the back and seat.

As you can see, making a sofa and upholstering it at home is quite possible.

Sketches of sofas with dimensions

Instructions with video tutorials, drawings, dimensions and parts list.

I'll tell you how to make a simple Eurobook folding sofa. This time in the form of video instructions with comments, drawings of the rubber composition and a complete list of parts.

This sofa has a bed size of 2 x 1.5 meters. You can do it yourself, without conversion mechanisms, without expensive tools. All materials for production are available to everyone.

We will make the most economical and ascetic sofa, but let's not forget about quality. When purchasing materials, I was faced with a price of 6 thousand rubles (then about 85 dollars). In the first video I will talk about the advantages of this sofa, materials and tools.

Based on my instructions, you can easily change the look of the sofa according to your wishes.

For example, such options are not difficult to make on a sofa (for the video above):

If you make a major change (increase the size of the box), you can create a sofa with armrests. And also based on the Eurobond, adding the Ottoman Empire, you can make a corner sofa.

DIY folding sofa

How to make armrests and ottomans, we have already taken into account the instructions for the corner sofa.

Below you can see how much and what material you made for the sofa.

The cost of all materials at that time was less than 6,000 rubles or 85 dollars (1 dollar = 70 rubles).

List of parts for mounting the European Cup:

And the total amount of material (all dimensions in millimeters)

Note. If you want to add armrests to your sofa, check out the necessary changes on the next page of this guide.

Continue: compiling a box of Eurobuns.

Disclaimer: All tutorials are free for anyone who wants to build their own couch. Use it yourself. The author is not responsible for the consequences of using this manual.

How to make a children's sofa yourself, with your own hands

Manufacturing instructions with drawings

Introduction:
On the furniture forum sdelaimebel.ru, user Eskander shared his experience in making children's sofas, for which many thanks to him.

I found this instruction interesting for a wide range of readers and, with the permission of the author, I am posting it here. This is the only material in this section for which I am not the author, but only the editor. This sofa model is mass-produced by the author in production, but it is quite possible to make such a children’s sofa yourself, with your own hands at home. In this particular case, we are considering a sofa based on a roll-out Bonnel spring block with a folding headboard segment.

Instead of springs, you can use foam rubber in a children's sofa.

This is what a children's sofa you can make yourself looks like:

Drawing of a roll-out sofa seat

• The support frame (position 15) with plastic supports (14) is attached to the support frame fastening bars (12) using 50 mm SHSGD self-tapping screws.
• The synthetic winterizer (1) is attached to the polyurethane foam pointwise, using “Tapicer” foam rubber adhesive (if not available, you can use the usual “Moment” in tubes or glue for ceiling tiles"Titan" type).
• PPU 30 mm. (2) attached to heat-pressed felt (3) pointwise, using “Tapicer” foam rubber adhesive (you can, again, “Moment” or “Titan”).
• Heat-pressed felt (3) is attached with a fold to the Bonnel spring block by stitching with a needle and nylon thread (fishing gear) with wide ties.
• Spring block “Bonnel” L. x W. x H. = 1330 mm.

  x 660 mm. x 100 mm. /1 r./ (one frame) (position 4) we fasten along the perimeter of the frame bars with a stapler (staple No. 16) two staples on the right and left of each spring, corner springs - on 6 staples (right, left and corner).

  In the absence of a stapler, you can use a hammer and 32 mm nails, one nail per spring, corner springs - 2 (we hammer the nails halfway, then bend them).

• Fiberboard 2.5 mm. the rigid base (11) is secured around the perimeter of the frame bars (6) (9) and the span bars (10) with a stapler (bracket No. 16) or 25 mm SHSGD. (at worst - with the same 32 mm nails.).
• Spring-loaded flooring - heat-pressed felt (11) is attached to the fiberboard using glue or staples.
• Frame (6) (9) (10) - pine bars located on the edge, connected with a tenon (possibly without a tenon, with 75 mm SHSGD self-tapping screws.

  2 pcs. at the end with simultaneous gluing of the ends with PVA wood glue).

• PPU 20 mm. (5) glue from the top to 30 mm polyurethane foam. (2) and from below - to the plane of the frame bars along the perimeter (or with a stapler, staple No. 10).

To reduce time costs and the range of materials used, you can:

• use polyurethane foam with a thickness of 100 mm. instead of a Bonnel spring block and heat-pressed felt.
• Do not use tenon joints for frame bars.
• use chipboard or laminated chipboard instead of the support frame (15) and supports (14), which are screwed using a 35 mm SHSGD.

  to the plane of the frame block (6).

Wheel support No. 493:

Options for attaching the Bonnel spring block to a rigid base (using 32 mm nails and No. 16 staples); option of attaching heat-pressed felt to the Bonnel spring block using nylon thread:

Please note that the photo above shows the mounting of the spring unit not on a children's sofa, but on a sofa of a different model.

But the principle is the same: first the batting, then the spring block is nailed, and the top is sheathed with felt. And then the foam rubber is glued.

Reclining drawing

The technology is similar to the manufacture of a roll-out seat.
Differences:

• In place of 30 mm polyurethane foam.

  (position 2) 20 mm polyurethane foam is used. in order to compensate for the overall thickness of the pillow and prevent a difference relative to the plane of the roll-out seat during transformation (since fiberboard (11), 10 mm polyurethane foam (12) and padding polyester are added from the bottom).

• The frame bars are covered from the bottom with fiberboard (11), onto which 10 mm polyurethane foam is glued.

  and padding polyester.

• The furniture fabric cover is not nailed with staples to the frame bars, but is put on and fastened using a “Zipper” lock, after which a card loop No. 538 zinc (2 pcs.) is screwed to the folding backrest using self-tapping screws ШСГД 50 mm.

  according to pre-made markings (chalk on furniture fabric).

Card loop No. 538 zinc:

To reduce time costs and the range of materials used - (see.

ROLL-OUT SEAT) similar.

Drawing of a sofa box

To reduce time costs you can:

• Do not use tenon joints on workpieces.
• use laminated chipboard or plywood instead of solid wood blanks.
• do not use cutouts in the guide bars of the rollers (3); you can install straight bars, securing on them any clamps that prevent the rollers from rolling back

Pillow

In my case, a cover made of furniture fabric with a “Zipper” lock with a linear Velcro fastener was used.

Pillow size (in finished form) 400 x 600 mm.
Filling – Super Pooh balls, which we place in a cover made of low-density spunbond and then sew on sewing machine, cutting off the excess with scissors.

You can use other types of tightening - point or using buttons.
As a filler, you can use Super Pooh comb (holofiber, as we did when stuffing pillows for the back of a corner sofa).

Many (to save money) use a mixture of foam rubber crumbs and padding polyester; in this case, it is better to cover the spunbond cover with padding polyester in several layers.
The cover for the filler (instead of spunbond) can be sewn from calico fabric.

Drawings of the main back of the sofa

The main back is made of 16 mm plywood.
Holes for bolts securing the backrest to the frame (d.

8 mm) drill according to the template.
At home, you can do without a template; you must first attach the back to the box and temporarily secure it with nails or clamps, simultaneously drill the back with the box according to the pre-applied markings).
The roller that frames the contour of the back from above and from the sides is made of a 30 mm polyurethane foam strip, which we wrap around the edge of the plywood and secure with staples No. 10 (we beat the staple in a line, without gaps).
On the front side of the plywood plane we glue 10 mm polyurethane foam, pre-cut to the shape of the back.
The foam roller framing the back is upholstered with a strip of furniture fabric.
Lastly, we install and nail (staple No. 10 into the line under the edging) an insert of companion furniture fabric made with edging along the contour (you can sew in a clothesline).

The edging is needed to hide the staples.
The back surface of the back can be covered with spunbond or calico.
To simplify the design, you can do without rollers and inserts, just cover the plywood with 10 - 20 mm foam rubber. and upholster with furniture fabric.

Assembling the sofa

- Installation reclining backrest– set the reclining backrest to position “ sleeping area", aligning with the side bars of the box and the end of the roll-out seat, fasten the card loops to the end board of the box with 32 mm SHSGD self-tapping screws.

(8 pieces for 2 loops).
- Installation main backrest– to the box it is carried out with bolts M 8 x 85 (+ washers d. 8 with an increased field, 2 pcs. per bolt).
Before installation - it is necessary to back wall box (or to the main back - as it is convenient for you) install bars 30 x 60 x 200, securing them with self-tapping screws (drill holes for the bolt in the bars along the existing ones).

These bars are necessary to distance the main back from the box and the roll-out seat, so as not to have a braking effect with the plane of the back relative to the roll-out seat during transformation.

The article belongs to the site NovaMebel74.ru

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Straight sofa with your own hands - a favorite family vacation

Home craftsmen pay attention to the original design - a do-it-yourself sofa bed, adapted to the popular Japanese futon mattress.

On these thin foundations, filled with dry algae, the people of the Far East burned for 20 years.

The composition of the futon futon has been changed, but remains of high quality.

They are now filled with natural latex, cotton, coconut or thermofiber.

How to make a folding sofa for your home with your own hands: drawings, diagrams, photographs

But on the ground, like the Japanese, we are not used to sleeping, even on futons. In this case we will fold with my own hands, consisting of pine wood panels.

Preparing for work

The presented model has a simple shape.

The frames of the main modules, seats and backrests are assembled in a similar way: two side walls at the front and back are connected by two plates. The longitudinal sections are a fixed base consisting of transverse strips. Attention is paid to the functionality of the folding legs. When folded, the backrest is firmly supported when the folding of the sofa provides a reliable support for the threshold.

Sofa details

Furniture board slabs:

• Seat frame with dimensions 38x350x830 mm - 2 pcs.
• Seat frame longitudinal boards 38x130x2000 mm - 2 pcs.
• Longitudinal backrests 38x90x2080 - 2 pcs.
• Sticks for strengthening the back frame 38x55x730 mm - 2 pcs.

The two sides of the backrest are made of 28mm thick copper board.

Final dimensions 28x130x1050 mm.

Planned wood slabs:

1. Seat frame holders 30x30x2000 mm - 2 pcs.
2. Support frame for backrest frame 30x30x2080 mm - 2 pcs.
3. Slats for folding legs 20x50x640 mm - 2 pcs.
4. Slats for folding legs 20x50x285 mm - 2 pcs.
5. Base for mounting legs 20x50x83 mm - 2 pcs.
6. Slats for the rear grille 14x30x655 mm - 28 pcs.
7. Grill slats with seat 14x30x609 mm - 28 pcs.
8. Round rod with a diameter of 22 mm, a length of 1960 mm.

Consumables will be required:

• Screws M8h80 - 4 pcs., M8h70 - 2 pcs.
• Self-locking nuts M8 - 6 pcs.
• Washers 25x8.5x1 mm - 3 pcs.
• Screws 6x80 mm - 2 pcs., Plus 6 washers with them.
• Wooden dowels with a diameter of 8 mm - 16 pcs.
• Furniture sets - 8 pcs.

  The kit contains screws M5x80 mm (hexagon socket head), washers and bushings ∅10x15 mm, internal thread M5.

• Various screws.
• Synthetic tape width 25 mm, length 8 m.
• Wood glue, furniture varnish.

These are the tools you will need:

1. A circular saw.
2. Electric puzzle.
3. Drilling and boring parts.
4. Screwdriver.

Sofa bed manufacturing process

When we start making a folding sofa, first cut all the necessary blank circular saws.

All corners are sawdust rounded and the edges are smooth with fine grit abrasive paper. Before assembly, all blanks are coated with acrylic varnish and dried.

The sides of the seat are connected by longitudinal plates. The fixing elements are 2 adhesives and one tie.

This gives the structure the required rigidity.

They are put back together in the same way. Here it is necessary to measure the position of the holes for the pin axis with maximum accuracy of rotation of the back and legs of the couch (crosses are marked on the drawing). The rotating joints are made using screws and hexagonal self-locking nuts.

To reduce friction on the back and side walls under the nuts, washers measuring 25x8.5x1 mm were installed.

To the longitudinal plates of the back and seat, with screws and glue, fastening rods 30x30 mm for attaching the holder. Depending on the thickness of the mattress (120 mm) longitudinal boards and the seat mesh are 45 mm below the top level of the side walls.

Then the height of the seat from the ground is 425 mm. Decided how the sofa becomes optimal for sitting.

In the hole of the longitudinal plates ∅10 mm, the inserts of internal threaded pipes are taken from the furniture set.

M5x80 screws are screwed with a hexagon socket head. Tighten them with a socket.

Connect the joints on both sides with 80mm bolts, a 22mm rod and three washers.

Secure the strips with tape.

To do this, press the fasteners onto the workbench for a long piece of panel or stick that will act as an accent. Measured seals can be made from remnants of particle boards.

Connect the frame bolts to the seat and back. We give power to both inner sides of the back, we insert the rods and secure them with clamps until they are completely dry.

The cross section is attached to the screws attached on the left and right.

Support in an elevated country provides additional support for the structure.

Let's try to open our sofa. The spinner needs to go a little further and pull the round vein connecting the legs.

As a result, you will get a double bed measuring 1600x2000 mm.

Futon futon with natural filler well ventilated through the lattice structure.

The back and seat of the complex part of the sofa seem somewhat disproportionate.

However, by laying the 12cm futon in the mesh, we will fully understand the comfort of the design. In order for the mattress to adhere well to the seat, it should be attached with fabrics to the lower longitudinal part of the backrest.

As a result, we had a folding sofa unusual shape, ideal for Japanese futon.

A new piece of furniture will add an oriental taste to the interior and become a popular vacation spot for the whole family.

A sofa is an absolutely necessary piece of furniture. In small apartments, a sofa can replace a bed, a wardrobe, even a living room, in a set with a coffee table. And at the same time, the sofa is a very complex product, one of the most complex in furniture production, therefore, the prices for sofas are considerable, and amateur furniture makers take on them with caution and take inexpensive sofas for samples, which are relatively low in functionality and are not particularly strong and durable. This publication is intended to help them better understand the designs of sofas and understand how to make one that will be passed on to their grandchildren, unless they have to reupholster it. And designed for rooms with the widest range of conditions of use: from a garden gazebo to a kitchen and a children's room.

This is not as difficult as it might seem and making a sofa with your own hands in the luxury category (not to mention simple ones for a summer house, a nursery, temporary use until you can get some money for furniture) is quite possible in a garage, barn and even on a balcony. This is how old-time furniture makers worked. High-tech “bells and whistles” make it possible to reduce weight and dimensions, expand the range of operating conditions, obtain new product qualities and create fundamentally different designs, but the basis of exclusive quality remains unchanged at all times: conscientiousness, accuracy, good knowledge of the properties of materials and a complete understanding of the essence of each production operation. And the furniture design is very conservative. Operations that require production conditions during its manufacture can almost always be replaced by even more labor-intensive ones that require skill with more ingenuity than that of a well-trained biorobot on a conveyor belt, but can be performed hand tools.

Corners that sofas

One of the most popular today is the corner sofa. The reason is high functionality, which is especially clearly manifested in small-sized housing. For example, a sleeping-living room sofa corner, pos. And in the figure, when folded, it does not have any sleeping appearance and the most orthodox moralist will have nothing to complain about. But at the same time, its right (according to the figure) section is already a single bed, and when unfolded it turns into a double bed. These are also called bachelors’ sofas: I’m tired, I don’t have the time – I’ll fall asleep in the one-room apartment. And the next (or forever only) passion has arrived - there is enough room for two to settle down, as it should be in such circumstances. Structurally, there is nothing complicated: a single bed and a folding or roll-out sofa, uniformly designed and put together, like those described below.

The second most popular is the classic soft corner, pos. B. Sitting in a corner is not only a bad omen, but also inconvenient, so last years The corner seat is increasingly being replaced by a casket-bar, as in pos. In, or, for the kitchen, a casket-table. The layout of such a kitchen corner is shown in Fig. below. You can dine on it alone if in a small kitchen the table is occupied for rolling, cutting, etc. And the casket and trunks (as sofa boxes are called) will serve as bins for vegetables, storage of household goods, etc.

This kitchen sofa is made according to the so-called. simplified beam diagram (see below). Its peculiarity is that the seats are narrower than those of the sofas on which they sleep, 400-450 mm versus 550-700 mm. The length of the side sections is according to the location in the room; other sizes are standard, see below. The sidewall material is 40 mm hardwood board or 36 mm chipboard. The bottom of the sofa is 12-16 mm chipboard on a frame (also see below) or OSB of the same thickness without a frame; the rest is a 30 mm board, 50x50 mm and 50x30 mm beams (shelf supports). Assembly - with self-tapping screws, dowels and half-timber inserts, all with PVA or “Moment” gluing. At current prices, no more than 3,000 rubles worth of materials is required.

Device and dimensions

The sofa consists of a supporting (load-bearing) structure, most often including a drawer, a bed - a sofa, if there is a lifting drawer, a backrest and armrests. In transformable products (sofa bed), a transformation mechanism and, possibly, additional pillows stored in a drawer are added to them. Typical sofa sizes:

• Length – 1200-1900 mm.
• The width of the sofa is 550-700 mm.
• The height of the armrests is from 100 (ottoman) to 400 mm.
• Back height, without extras. pillows – 200-700 mm.
• Backrest tilt – 5-20 degrees.
• The height of the “sitting” surface of the sofa above the floor is 400-450 mm.

The last parameter, in turn, consists of:

• Legs – 50-70 mm.
• Support frame – 50-100 mm.
• Box – 150-250 mm.
• The bottom of the sofa (with frame) is 55-75 mm.

This leaves up to 120 mm for soft padding with sheathing. If its thickness exceeds 70 mm, the sofa is considered soft, 40-70 mm - semi-rigid, up to 40 mm - hard.

About cutting and sewing

The most difficult and responsible part of the work of making a sofa is its stuffing, upholstery and upholstery. These are different manufacturing operations; each of them separately and all of them together determine the consumer qualities of the product and its durability more than woodwork. True, craftsmen are intensively promoting themselves on the RuNet, promising to reupholster a sofa in an hour or even in 20 minutes, but, firstly, they work mainly with nonwoven materials(fleece, etc.), which in themselves are short-lived. Secondly, they are covered using a simplified system with the corners turned inside out, which is unhygienic and guarantees rapid abrasion of the covering. And most importantly, with this method of work there is no reliable information about: a) the durability of the product before the need for reupholstery; b) whether any of the primary clients contacted this specialist again.

To properly sew covers for sofa modules, you will need serious preparatory work. Its essential subtleties will be described below; Beginners are advised to upholster a sofa using the old amateur method using saddle stitch fitting. The pros don't do much work for them, because... it takes a lot of time, and who will pay for it? But during the heyday of stagnation (or stagnation of heyday?), when you had to sign up for furniture reupholstery a year in advance, and even give a bribe, it was successfully used by “complete dummies.” The sofa is covered step by step like this:

1. The wooden base is covered with technical fabric - canvas, matting, burlap (possibly propylene);
2. Install soft padding, most often foam mats;
3. They cover the soft material, in order of preference, with spandbond, padding polyester, or batting;
4. On a piece of decorative fabric, the drawstrings are swept under the cords, if decorative scars/straps are provided, see below;
5. The decorative cut, without cutting, is thrown over the product with the wrong side out, pulled in as described below, and the corners are swept away with a harsh thread (now reinforced with propylene) with the scar facing out;
6. After a day, check to see if the pattern is wrinkled, sagging, or distorted, especially geometric ones, and if necessary, adjust the angles;
7. If everything is OK, mark the seam lines, cut and sew;
8. Tighten the cords into the drawstrings for tightening, if necessary;
9. Throw on the cover, make the final tightening, starting from the corners;
10. After another day, check the drawing and adjust the tension threads;;
11. Everything is OK – the lapels are secured;
12. Decorative ties are formed.

The procedure, as we see, is quite complicated and lengthy. This is explained by the fact that the properties of fabrics, incl. upholstery, vary noticeably within a piece. Previously, upholsterers were guided by intuition and experience; now the technical parameters of a particular sample are directly entered into professional computer cutting programs. Homemade templates from wallpaper newspapers do not provide this and do not take into account the initial tightening of the fabric. However, it is useful to make them - to determine the fabric consumption. A rough estimate of the method: the length of a cut with a width of 150 cm is equal to 2 widths of the sofa + 2 its lengths, gives a large waste. Determining the length of the cut using templates (allowance from 15 cm) saves lengths of up to 1 m (!); how much is it in money - see in the store.

Note: for the same reason, if you are reupholstering a sofa, it is undesirable to use old upholstery as a pattern. Under a microscope or magnifying glass, it is clearly visible that the structure of its fabric has changed significantly compared to the same jacquard or tapestry from the same loom.

Paragraphs also require additional clarification. 1-3. If you stuff the skin hastily, wood-glue-sintepon-foam-rubber-decor, then after a while you will find that the skin is greasy, sticky to the touch, especially in summer, and the dearest parts of the body feel uncomfortable on it. Let “some” be 3 years, but what kind of lifespan is this for furniture? Therefore, soft padding mats need porous pads on both the bottom and top to remove evaporation/sweat/dirt from them. In furniture with spring blocks, by the way, too, see fig.

What to do?

The basis of the sofa is the supporting frame, pos. 1, with a box attached to it, pos. 2. The backrest is attached to this assembly, then the armrests; most often - already sheathed. The frame and drawer, if the design of the item does not include any visible wood, are also sheathed separately before assembly. Fabric folds at the joints in this case do not reduce the strength of the connection because vertical loads do not tear off the upholstery, and horizontal loads are supported by additional loads. fasteners, see below.

Note: The famous tank designer Christie once said that the idea of ​​silent blocks in tracks came to his mind when he was renovating his sofa. It’s not surprising that the rich man tinkered with the furniture himself; Christie was an engineer of the second class. Ι genus rearranges pieces of paper at the table, and ΙΙth can do everything he comes up with with his hands.

A sofa and its lifting mechanism(in the simplest case - piano/card loops and a limiter cord). Perhaps the sofa will be hard with a loose mattress lying on it. In any case, the sofa is also covered separately in advance.

A special case is office sofas, etc., used in unfavorable conditions with the possibility of careless use. Their supporting system is made in the form of a three-dimensional beam structure, pos. 3. But it is not recommended for those who like to use the compounds shown there with confirmations obliquely. With special equipment and accessories, “oblique screws” are economical and technologically advanced and therefore widely used in industrial production furniture classes up to middle. But, firstly, such a connection is not as strong and durable as traditional furniture ones. Secondly, drilling very shallow oblique holes with a hand tool to a given depth, exactly at the right angle and in 2 mating parts at once is problematic, if not impossible. And self-tapping screws that move to the sides or along the corner (which is not noticeable from the outside) will significantly reduce the strength and service life of the entire product.

A drawing of a simple beam sofa is shown in Fig. It is most suitable for a gazebo. Due to the influence of bad weather, the pillows are brought/taken away as they are used, and before assembly, the parts are individually impregnated with an oil water repellent for wood (can be worked off) or twice with a water-polymer emulsion. Finish – acrylic varnish in 2 layers.

At the dacha, where rain still doesn’t pour through the roof, it will be easier to make a homemade sofa with a simplified beam system, its arrangement is on the left side of the trail. rice. Its basis is strong side armrests and a pair of cross beams. Completes the power circuit of the box-bridge; in this case, it is necessary to have 2 bulkheads (partitions). Materials:

• Armrests - 20-24 mm plywood with board overlays on top (to make them wider) or, if the cottage is heated (does not dampen) 30-36 mm chipboard.
• Box – oak/beech board 30 mm; bottom – plywood from 6 mm.
• Beam legs - any commercial wood.
• The back is the same, shield, (300-400)x40 mm.

Assembly - on wood screws with gluing. Pay attention to how the box is assembled; this method will be useful to us. The second feature is that the box is attached with self-tapping screws not only to the timber beams, but also to the sidewalls from the inside using a zigzag (snake) in increments of 120-150 mm, with a distance of 30 mm from the edge of the board. The back is also attached to it.

If the workloads are smaller, but with a larger proportion of dynamic alternating signs, a simplified scheme with 2 longitudinal beams works better. They need to be raised by about half the height of the sidewalls, otherwise the working deflection, in this case already noticeable, will tend to pile the sides on top of each other and the sofa will soon become loose. According to this scheme, a children's sofa with drawers, shown on the right in the figure, is assembled; The diagram for assembling the boxes is there at the bottom right. The material of all lengths is oak/beech 30 mm; the sides and bottom of the sofa are plywood 18-24 and 10-16 mm, respectively. Assembly - with glue.

Note: It is not worth using laminated chipboard - for children's furniture only phenol class E0 is acceptable, but this material is quite fragile and will not last long in such a loaded product as a sofa.

How to lift a sofa

With the simplest mechanism described above, you won’t be able to lift the sofa back: the back gets in the way. All that remains is to lift forward. But then, taking into account the height of the support, its upper edge, raised, will be 70-100 cm above the floor. If the owner is not two meters tall, how can she put/get something? Roll the whole thing into the box and squeak, kicking your slippers in the air?

Meanwhile, it is very simple and reliable, and most importantly - it does not require high precision execution; the lifting mechanism of the sofa can be made by yourself at home, on the principle of a lever-spring system such as an oblique diamond with 2 dead points. How it is arranged, and at the same time the sofa-ottoman with it, is shown in Fig.

Note: the author knows funny case with an oblique rhombus. A drinking, but skilled man, while making this ottoman, fenced off nooks behind the levers (they say, there are some kind of mechanics there too) and arranged in them hiding places for bottles with the required drink. I even brought out the tubes under the trim behind the back. And the better half was more than 10 years old, until he went into a deep hole and split himself, and it was not clear why this faithful person was a loser every day, but did not run to the store for a bottle.

About sofa beds

The sofa bed is, as they say, a classic of the genre. But in the amateur, and also in the professional, world, innovative works appear here all the time. The fact is that the mechanism for folding out a classic sofa-book is quite capricious. Either it jams/seizes, then assembling/disassembling the sofa is difficult for ladies' hands, or it turns out to be too expensive and not reliable enough. And an amateur who wants to repeat the selected sample discovers that the rough-looking piece of iron has curved surfaces made with fairly high precision, but there are no detailed specifications for them. Therefore, amateurs most often make sofa beds as roll-out/pull-out ones.

Here, the most common are 2 systems, with a free retractable half of the bed, pos. 1 in Fig., and in the form of a bridge, pos. 2. The first is less labor- and material-intensive, but its Achilles heel is its legs. It is inconvenient to recline them manually, and gravity ones (reclining by their own weight) will someday stand askew and break; the sofa sagging when pulled out will help.

The bridge circuit is more reliable, especially since its movable (on casters) supports will also serve as bedside tables. True, you will have to reach for them, unless users are prone to necrophilia and do not like to sleep feet first.

The structure of the sliding sofa bed of the bridge circuit is shown in more detail in pos. 3. The upper pair of rollers (guides/stops) run in the grooves of the drawer. Pay attention to Det. Q. This is not some kind of additional mat, but simply a decorative overlay. The surfaces of sleeping halves A and B are, naturally, flush. The half-box A is often made to fold forward on the same canopies as for B, hidden by the cover B. Then the small drawers D are opened. Lovers of “strawberries and cream” (erotomaniacs/nymphomaniacs, a surprisingly monotonous and primitive-minded public) consider them reliable hidden secret places and hide intimate accessories in them.

Both of these systems have a common drawback: transforming a sofa into a bed requires some extra free space behind the backrest. This doesn’t happen in a small bedroom, and trash accumulates there. Roll-out sofa beds of the console design, now for some reason completely undeservedly relegated to the background, are deprived of this defect.

How the console sofa bed is arranged is shown in Fig. on right. Its width when extended can be increased to 1500-1600 mm due to the proportional widening of the console and increasing the height of the backrest, and its length up to 2000 mm (this is already a normal two-bed bed). In this case, the excess width of the seat when assembled is compensated by pillows that, when extended, form half of the bed. In the original design (designed for a tiny sleeping compartment in the utility room), they are stored in a box. Some tilt of the backrest is achieved due to the piano hinge, its hinge. It can be increased by placing a plywood spacer under the lower hinge wing.

The main materials are 50x30 beams and 4-6 mm plywood. On the base of the armrests - solid waste construction timber. The console frame is of the same design as for the box. Connections - through tenons or met. corners, no matter. The height of the cushions is 150 mm, but they sag under the rider, so for use in normal conditions it is advisable to increase the height of the console and place the box on legs.

About Eurobooks

The concept of the euro is no longer being discussed. Moldovans, for example (they have experience communicating with local guest workers) dig euros in a trench (according to plan, profile and on time), get drunk with euros (to the point of death, to the point of a green serpent, blue devils and pink elephants), and go to the toilet with euros a lot (no constipation or diarrhea). And an ordinary folding sofa bed is now often on sale not just like that, but as a Eurobook. But this is still all right, but a Euro-book sofa of the click-clack type (see picture) is already something.

It unfolds and assembles really easily, yes, yes. And the mechanism is expensive, but reliable. To create a double bed, the armrests and sides of the backrest also recline. It is not clear what to call them. It doesn't look like headrests. Podkonchniks, or something. When unfolded, triangular gaps form in the heads/legs, which are covered by additional folding wings, which further complicates and increases the cost of the product.

The most important thing is that in order to unfold the click-clack into a bed, you need at least 0.7 m of free space along its contour. Where can I get it? Perhaps in a studio apartment, the occupant of which is embarrassed to show that he also sleeps here. However, such a state of mind is typical for today’s, and not only today’s, Europeans. You can talk about a double standard of openness, but from the point of view of simple common sense, a sofa-book click-clack – well, that’s okay.

How to do?

But how to make all these sofas? Where to screw, where and how to drill and saw? Well, let's get started. Just don’t forget that what is being covered must be covered before general assembly. We’ll discuss how to cover something after the carpentry, after all, the basis is in it, and the making of the sofa begins with it.

Frame and drawer

In a professional, artisanal manner, so to speak, the supporting frame is assembled on blind tenons with wedging and gluing. They provide a completely hidden connection and furniture on these lasts for centuries, but to make them you need a hand-held wood router, skills in working with it, or mastery of a hammer, chisel and brace.

It will be easier for an amateur to assemble a frame with inserted legs, pos. 1 in Fig. This is no less reliable for 30-40 years, and the seam is almost invisible. Beam cross-section from 50-30 mm; legs - from 70x70 mm. In any case, the “stump” of the leg must be at least 40x40 mm. The beams are fastened with pairs of diagonally located self-tapping screws from 4.2x60 using glue.

The box is best assembled on triangular section bosses from 50x50, pos. 2. They are fastened to the box boards (oak/beech from 30 mm; pine from 40 mm) with self-tapping screws (4.2-6.0)x45, 2-3 pieces each. into each board, i.e. 4-6 pcs. on the boss; connections also with sizing.

Note: the box will be much stronger and more durable if you take the time to assemble the box on dowels, a pair per joint, before installing the bosses.

The bottom can simply be nailed with small nails in increments of 70-100 mm; it will lie on the frame and therefore will not come off. The choice of material is more important here. OSB is the strongest, but the staples of the stapler do not fit into it well, many bend and tear the casing; wallpaper nails too. Chipboard and fiberboard are fragile and delaminate. Suddenly the bottom gets wet and may simply fall through, leaving a nailed strip between the frame and the box.

Note: if you need to reupholster the sofa, the chipboard/fibreboard bottom will show itself in all its glory - when you tear out the old staples, the layered material will be torn apart so that you can no longer attach the new upholstery.

The best bottom material is plywood 4-8 mm thick, impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. But, if you need a box without bulkheads, a problem arises: sheets of plywood as wide as the length of the sofa are not produced. The pieces need to be connected so that the joint is supported by the weight of the contents. The same question arises if there are scraps that are enough for the bottom.

In the industrial production of high-quality furniture, plywood sheets are connected with a shaped strip made of hard wood, at the top at pos. 3. You can make the “shape” yourself if you have a router. Its length is 2 board thicknesses less than the width of the box (equal to its internal width). The gusset is fastened from the inside to the frames (boards) with steel corners. If there is no router, the gusset is replaced with a prefabricated T-shaped beam made of 50-70 mm strips with a thickness of 15 mm and a 20 mm liner no less thick than plywood. It will give rigidity to the beam, and without it, the sheets assembled end-to-end will begin to mutually delaminate each other under work loads. Everything is assembled on small nails and secured in a box like a gusset.

Connect the box to the frame (remember, after the lining, if provided) with dowels in increments of 200-300 mm, this is enough to prevent it from sliding to the side. An option, perhaps in addition to the dowels, is flat metal lining from the inside and self-tapping screws, 1 in the middle on the short sides and 2-3 evenly along the length on the long sides.

Note: if the drawer is without bulkheads, the back height should not exceed 350 mm, otherwise the back drawer drawer will not withstand the loads.

Back

The basis of the supporting frame of the backrest (item 1 in the figure) is spar A made of hard board (120-150)x40 mm. Most often, to simplify the work, it is made of sections, but a solid one will be stronger. This one is cut flush into the vertical posts and placed first on the dowels. It is also advisable to assemble the entire frame first on dowels, and then fasten it at the corners inside with corners or bosses, like a box. The bosses in this case can simply be scraps of timber, because The internal volume of the backrest is not used.

The height H1 is equal to the height of the support frame, without legs, together with the height of the drawer; H2 – the thickness of the sofa, but not less than the height of the spar indicated above. Thickness of the bottom slab made of oak, etc. – from 40 mm. It, together with the spar and rectangular parts of the racks, makes up the lower backrest belt. This is a very responsible node, because The normal operating load of people reclining tends to tear it away from the lower support.

The normal number of stands for a sofa up to 2 m long is 4 pieces. evenly along the length. If the back is wider than the sofa, i.e. also covers the armrests, then 2 more are added. The penultimate ones, counting from the middle, fall on the corners supporting structure, the outermost ones - on the outer planes of the armrests, see below.

The upper belt of the backrest is made of solid timber with a thickness of 50 mm. His “responsibility” is necessary when people stand on the back to reach something above or when the sofa is dragged by the back when moving furniture. Also here the upholstery is most likely to creep and wrinkle, so the top beam is planed into one plane with the supporting surface of the back and its edges are rounded (shown in the inset). As for the racks, they can also be made of pine.

The production of the backrest is completed by upholstering its supporting surface with plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from 4 mm, as shown in pos. 2. This is necessary to give the entire module the necessary rigidity for a strong connection with the support, but there is no need to sew up the rear yet!

Now compare poses. 2 and 3. The last one is a gross mistake that simplifies the work and allows you to quickly get paid for it, but seriously worsens the quality and durability of the sofa. How to attach this backrest to the support? Self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards? How long will a sofa like this last before the back comes off?

Connection to support

Assembling a backrest with a support is exactly the case when metal fasteners in furniture are necessary. Together they are connected with corners from 60x60x4, and to the back parts with self-tapping screws from 6 mm, and to the drawer/frame - through bolts from 6 mm (heads into the drawer/frame), 3 of each per corner. Washers from 40 mm under the heads and nuts are required! There are still springs under the nuts; it won’t be possible to tighten them later!

You need 2 corners for each vertical joint in the back (12 with 2 intermediate posts), at the top and bottom, 3 horizontal ones in each section at the top, in the area of ​​greatest load (towards the spar), evenly along the length, and 1- 2 horizontally at the bottom. It’s better to have 2, in case the sofa is dragged by the back. For fastening to the spar, it is better to use unequal angles 60x40 with holes in a narrow flange, located in a row.

And only now the back can be sewn up with the same plywood, chipboard, fiberboard from the rear, covered with technical fabric, glued with foam rubber (40-70 mm), and completely covered. It is impossible to leave the decor for later, so as not to accidentally damage it during further work: it is unacceptable to insert the folds of the upholstery into the joint of the backrest and the support, and it will not be possible to cover it after installing the armrests.

Armrests

Armrests can be solid wood or framed like a backrest. They are also fully completed before installation. The load on them is less, so they are attached from the inside with self-tapping screws from 6 mm with an envelope or a snake to the box, and 4-6 pieces to the support. in a row.

Armrests of complex shapes are most often made of frames. In fact, technologically they are not that complicated, pos. And in Fig. The decor on the inside reaches the bottom edge of the sofa. The backrest should also match the elegant armrests. Then it needs additional. sheathing made of slats approximately 30x40 and liners made of boards from 30 mm, pos. B. The sheathing is cut into the backrest posts, and the inserts are fastened with self-tapping screws into the edge.

Sofa

The bottom of the sofa (plywood or chipboard from 8 mm) is assembled on a frame made of 70x50 timber with at least 1 crossbar for every full or incomplete 70 cm of length; distribute them evenly. The frame parts are connected by a half-timber insert and reinforced with self-tapping screws using glue. The bottom plate is attached to the frame with small self-tapping screws or notched nails. The frame bars should be at the bottom, i.e. outside (see figure), and not inside, as is sometimes advised. True, in this case 50 mm of foam rubber disappears, but there is a significant advantage when covering it: staples/nails do not scratch the top of the drawer, and thanks to the extra bending, the covering of the sofa (the most loaded) lies more evenly and holds tighter.

Upholstery

The upholstery of different sofas and even different modules of the same sofa is done different ways, but they all have a common sore spot - corners. Form them with a fold, as in Fig. on the right is a common method, but therefore no better quality. According to GOST USSR, turned upholstery corners are generally a manufacturing defect. Only sewn corners are reliable and durable.

Cutting and sewing the corners of furniture fabrics is done in two ways: without a tongue and with a tongue, see fig. below. The first is preferable for very dense and durable fabrics (jacquard, tapestry); the second for those more susceptible to abrasion - velor, courtesan, chinchilla - and leather. But keep in mind that the numbers in Fig. approximate, fitting with sketch is required!

The covers are sewn, as usual, from the inside out and put on inside out. When putting on the finished cover, the wings (bends) of the scars are straightened with a special tool like a small shoe spoon. It is called a bobbin, although it does not look like a braided bobbin. The tongue is not sewn into the seam; when sewing, it is folded back and left free.

Next comes tightening. If the corners have tongues, then the sheathing is leveled with them, and the tongues are secured. Then they pull the cover with a strong thread from the bottom along and across, 2-3 ties per 1 m of length and, tightening the threads, achieve an even, but not tight, tension; it is controlled by drawing. A cover with corners without tongues is straightened with threads. When the upholstery is stretched as expected, fasten the edges with a distance of at least 5 cm from the edge of the fabric. If the type of product allows, fasten with a hem.

Features for different modules

The supporting frame of the sofa and the drawer are upholstered as shown in Fig. The drawer is on 3 sides, the back remains open. This is necessary to ensure the strength of the connection between the backrest and the support, see above.

A pair of small trestles with a height of approx. 1 m, see fig. on the left, less than the width of the sofa, so as not to press down the fabric. As a last resort, the sofa blank is placed on a couple of stools. It’s not possible to simply cover the back, because... it is already attached to the support. Here, first, the fabric is attached along the line of interface with the box, from under the bottom it is pulled on the trestles, like a sofa, and to tighten it from the sides, you will have to temporarily drive small nails into the support. Well, the armrests can be moved as you like, there are no problems here.

Pillows

Individual cushions for a sofa are sewn in the same way as blocks of a frameless chair:

1. The foam mat is covered with technical fabric;
2. Sew the decorative cover inside out, leaving the final (lower back) seam unsewn;
3. 2 zippers are sewn into the final seam, fastened towards each other;
4. Insert the foam block into the decor and fasten the zippers.

Drawstrings

Sewing several pillows is boring, and dust collects in the seams between them. But a flat sofa does not harmonize with every design. Therefore, sometimes the pillows on it are imitated with drawstrings, see fig. There are also 2 options available here, for lighter and denser fabrics. In the first case, loops are sewn onto the edges of the cover under the drawstrings, and the drawstrings themselves are made when the cover is already secured. According to the 2nd option, the front scenes (tunnel sleeves) are sewn onto the workpiece under the cords and an even tension is achieved by alternately pulling the cords and the tension threads of the cover.

Beautiful scars

Another common way to decorate a sofa is with decorative scars, see fig. You also need to sew wings under them, but it is better to fill them with flexible multi-core electrical wire in PVC insulation with an outer diameter of 2-4 mm. Wire frames are formed on a template of nails driven into any (possibly vertical) wooden surface of a suitable size, even into the wall of a barn or doghouse.

The ends are stripped of 25-35 mm of insulation, twisted with British twist (British, shaved, see the figure on the left), the joint is soldered and, so that the inadvertently exposed wire core does not dig into a sensitive place, it is wrapped with electrical tape. In the pillow, the joint, of course, should be at the back.

About one-piece cases

A one-piece sofa cover is already the highest aerobatics in the wallpaper business. However, what if a shabby but strong sofa made of mahogany or Karelian birch appears in your grandmother’s attic? Furniture restorers know their worth, but they love their work and respect smart connoisseurs. If you talk to them knowledgeably, they will charge a moderate fee and will put their soul into the work.

In such a case, as they say in “1001 Nights”, know that the basis for tightening a one-piece cover is the lines where the sofa connects with the armrests and backrest. They are fixed with cords, as shown in Fig. The cords are routed along the bisectors of flat angles (external) and the trisectors of triple (internal) angles along grooves in the wooden frame and, for triple angles, through holes in it. The cords are moderately stretched, their ends are secured and then the cover is straightened and pulled.

The drawstrings for the cords can be, depending on the design, front or back. The last case is the most difficult; the drawstring seam must be double and very even. To carry it out flawlessly, you need a professional 2-needle sewing machine.

Note: In general, the machine is the main problem when upholstering a sofa. Before work, look at your specification and check whether it sews jacquard weave fabrics with reinforced thread no thinner than No. 20. If not, you will have to rent or order upholstery at home. Or sew by hand.

What about simpler?

As you can see, making and upholstering a sofa is not a big deal. Isn’t it possible to do something quicker and simpler here, to the dacha, to a new apartment? To throw on any pillows and collapse?

You can, the solution is called a sofa made of pallets. In general, a lot of things are made from construction pallets - pallets, including furniture, because pallets are inexpensive, seasoned wood of excellent quality.

The main thing here is taste and ingenuity. The simplest, most primitive garden sofa stack from pallets can be made much more convenient by using the principle of an Adirondack-type garden chair, on the left in Fig. It’s a little more difficult to use them to build a rustic-style pull-out sofa bed in the center. And if you press harder (with a tool, not a glass), you can get a sofa that you can’t immediately tell is from a discarded container, on the right. For example, see what a sofa was made by a seemingly completely inexperienced, but not at all stupid and not armless guy:

Video: DIY pallet sofa

This happens... with sofas...

Since we're talking about packaging, let's finish with a funny sofa. No comments are required, what is shown in Fig. speaks for itself. And it’s standing somewhere, they’re sitting on it, they’re lying...

A sofa is an indispensable piece of living room interior that provides comfort and coziness to the owners of the house and their guests. Of course, modern sofas are very expensive, but the quality often leaves much to be desired. So the idea began to arise on how to make a simple and cozy sofa at home, purchasing it yourself Consumables and inexpensive equipment.

But there really is nothing complicated: you can buy birch plywood in an online store, and good textiles for cladding can be found in any market. The main thing is to follow the manufacturing technology correctly, and you will succeed.

Decide on a suitable model and find the corresponding drawings on the Internet. We will give only one of the options for making a sofa yourself.

At the planning stage, it is important to evaluate and calculate the dimensions of the future product, and adjust the drawing if necessary so that the finished sofa fits into the interior of the room. Observe the proportions and be sure to leave allowances for cutting materials and preparing the frame.

Now is the time to purchase the necessary consumables (the list is indicative):

• wooden beam (section more than 3 by 5 cm);
• High quality chipboard – 1.6 cm;
• Certified fiberboard (quality is extremely important for the health of residents) – 3-5 mm;
• birch plywood base – 0.5 and 1.5 cm;
• nails and screws;
• certified foam rubber for stuffing (density of at least 30 kilos per 1 cubic meter) - 2 and 4 cm of original thickness;
• batting and padding polyester for the same stuffing (take it for future use, you won’t go wrong);
• glue (regular carpentry glue, as well as special glue for gluing foam rubber);
• foam rubber crumbs (other material upon request) for stuffing pillows;
• textiles for upholstery;
• tinting paint or wood varnish;
• sandpaper;
• decorative Velcro tape.

When purchasing material, do not forget to pay attention to environmental friendliness and quality, so ask sellers for product certificates.

Tools you will need:

• electric drill (speed must be adjusted);
• electric saw or jigsaw (a simple miter box, which will allow you to saw off the timber evenly);
• stapler for furniture;
• sharp knife for cutting textiles and foam rubber;
• sewing machine.

Let's make the base.

Sheathing.

When the frame is completely dry, it's time to make soft blanks.

This is how simple and clear you can make a sofa with your own hands, saving your family budget. In addition, you will know what materials the product is made of.

Detailed video tutorial on making a sofa at home.

Upholstered furniture is a necessary piece of furniture in every home. The opportunity to expand the functionality of the sofa in the living room by using it as a sleeping place is always welcome, especially by the owners small apartments. Having the desire, a small budget and knowing how to handle carpentry tools, you can make a comfortable folding sofa with your own hands.

Making a sofa yourself is not the easiest task, requiring attentiveness and accuracy, but it is quite doable. Images, diagrams, drawings of both the entire product and its individual elements will help with this. In this case, you should carefully consider the future folding mechanism and take into account its operating and installation features when creating a sofa. Today there are many ways to transform a soft sofa in the living room into a full-fledged sleeping place. For example: book, eurobook, roll-out, “click-click”, “dolphin”, etc.

What do you need to create a sofa?

Proven for decades, the familiar type of upholstered furniture, the book sofa, continues to be popular due to its simplicity and versatility. We propose to make a compact and easy-to-use model, which has dimensions of 100x220 mm when folded, and 140x220 mm when unfolded.

Required materials and tools

Before you begin, prepare the following materials:

• High density foam rubber (25 kg/m³): 1 sheet – 2000x1400x60, 1 sheet – 2000x1600x40, 1 sheet – 2000x1600x20.
• 6 linear meters(l.m.) fabrics 1400 mm wide.
• 4 p.m. non-woven fabric.
• Wooden beam: 2 pcs. 40x60x1890, 2 pcs. 40x60x1790, 6 pcs. 40x60x530, 4 pcs. 40x50x330, 4 pcs. 50x50x200.
• Boards 25 mm thick. 1900x200 (2 pcs.), 800x200 (2 pcs.), 1000x50 (12 pcs.), 800x50 (2 pcs.).
• 32 wooden slats, 64 slats holders.
• 1 fiberboard sheet 1.7x2.75, 3.2 mm thick.
• Mechanism for folding out a sofa like a book.
• 4 plastic legs.
• 4 furniture bolts 8x120.
• 4 furniture bolts 6x40.
• 8 furniture bolts 6x70.
• 4 nuts of 8 and 12 nuts of 6 mm.
• 20 nails – 70 mm, 40 nails – 100 mm.
• 20 screws 89D, 16 screws 51D.
• 1000 staples of 10 and 300 staples of 16 mm.
• Glue for foam rubber.

When making a book sofa you will need the following tools:

1. Roulette, square.
2. Saw.
3. Pencil.
4. Electric drill with drill bits.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Kit wrenches.
7. Hammer.
8. Furniture stapler.

Operating procedure

The sofa-book consists of the main structural parts: a back, a seat, a drawer for storing linen, two armrests. The easiest way to make a linen drawer is to start with this element.

1. First we assemble the frame of the box. To do this, use self-tapping screws and glue to fasten 2 boards 25x40x1900 and 2 boards 25x50x800, forming a rectangle, as shown in the photo.
2. In the same way, we install 40x50x200 (or 50x50x200) bars at the corners of the frame, 4 pieces in total.
3. Let us remind you that this part of the structure will serve as the base of the sofa, which means that during operation it will account for most of loads. Therefore, to increase the rigidity of the fastenings and strengthen the structure, we install two more transverse slats 800 mm long and 200 mm wide inside the box.
4. At the end of this stage of work, we nail 1800x800 fiberboard to the frame, which forms the bottom of the laundry box.

Let's start assembling the back of the sofa and the seat. Everyone, at their discretion, can make adjustments to the width parameter in order to increase the size of the bed, as far as the stability of the base allows.

1. We assemble identical frames for the back and seat from 40x60 timber, length 1890, width (in our case) 650 mm. We fasten the parts with self-tapping screws and nails. First, use a drill to make a hole with a drill with a diameter of 3 mm and hammer in the nails. We make holes again (this time for self-tapping screws) with the same drill, then with a large drill (8 mm) we deepen it to 10 mm. Self-tapping screws (89D) screwed into the joints of the planks will strengthen the frame and prevent parts from coming apart.

1. In the middle of each frame (back and seat) we install a bar - a stiffener.
2. We make markings and evenly attach holders for slats to both frames. Then we install the slats themselves, which will support the sofa mattress.
3. Let's start making the armrests. We take 25x50x1000 fiberboard, from it we need to make 4 side armrest blanks: 2 right, 2 left. Using a pencil and tape measure, transfer the shape and dimensions indicated on the diagram. Cut out the pieces.
4. Shoot down wooden frames according to the shape of the armrests so that they are 20 mm shorter than the fiberboard. We install a stiffener in the middle of each and 2 additional strips, as shown in the diagram.
5. We retreat 150 mm from the bottom edge of each armrest and mark points on the inner slats. Using an 8.5 mm drill, drill holes in the designated areas. We place 8x120 bolts there.

1. We attach the second side of each armrest to the self-tapping screws.
2. Use a 10 mm drill to make 2 holes in the sides of the laundry drawer. The first is 100 mm from the corner (front part), 150 from the bottom edge of the box. We do the second at the same height, measuring 700 mm from the corner (facade). Symmetrical holes must be made on the opposite side.

Connecting prepared elements into a single whole

1. We install a ready-made mechanism designed for unfolding a sofa book. Such parts are manufactured by industrial enterprises and can be purchased in specialized furniture fittings stores. When installing the mechanism, you should pay attention to the features of the fixed arrangement of parts. When folded, the seat should not protrude beyond the armrests, and when unfolded, the edge of the seat should be 10 mm from the edge of the backrest.

Working with the seat and back

1. We nail non-woven fabrics onto the lamellas and lay foam rubber (60 mm) on top. At the corners where the foam comes into contact with the transformation mechanism, so as not to interfere with its operation, we cut out 50x95 mm rectangles. In this case, the edges of the foam rubber freely cover the frames of the back and seat.
2. To make a rounded cushion along the edge of the back and seat, glue another 20x200 strip on top of the foam rubber.
3. We place another 40 mm thick sheet of foam rubber on top of the glue. We wrap the edges under the seat, and do the same with the backrest.
4. We carefully place pre-sewn fabric covers on parts covered with foam rubber.

Armrest trim

1. First, along the upper shaped edge of the armrests, using 40 mm thick foam rubber, we make a roller. To avoid creases, you can use two pieces of material. Moreover, the width of the foam rubber used is not the same everywhere. At the end of the lower (facade) edge it is 150 mm, until the middle it gradually narrows to 50 mm, then it remains the same width.
2. On top of the first layer, we wrap the edge with a 20 mm foam roller, nail it, and cut off the excess pieces.
3. We cover the inner surface of the armrests (where the bolts are visible) with 20 mm foam rubber, departing 320 mm from the bottom edge. Fix the foam with glue.
4. After the glue has dried, we wrap the roller again with the top piece of foam rubber. We cut off all excess, tuck the edges, and nail them.
5. We cover the armrests with decorative fabric, securing it with staples using furniture stapler.
6. The front side can be decorated with a finished wooden overlay if desired.

1. The linen box can be decorated different ways: handle sandpaper, and then varnish, or simply cover it with decorative furniture fabric.
2. All that remains is to completely assemble the sofa. Install the legs. Check the reliability of the fastenings and the operation of the mechanism again.

Drawings, diagrams and detailed step-by-step instructions helped make the production of such a seemingly difficult product as a sofa book understandable and uncomplicated. A new sofa can become a favorite place to relax in a private home or city apartment. It is ready to provide a sleeping place for guests, as well as decorate your living room.