Fastening steps. How to install a ladder yourself. Manufacturing instructions

Wooden stairs in the house are a very attractive element that can decorate or, conversely, spoil the appearance of any room. Beautiful carved stairs, like the one shown in the title photo, are the prerogative of professional assemblers and carvers, but this does not mean that simple designs, assembled with your own hands cannot look impressive.

In today's article we will look at the installation of wooden stairs step by step. This material will allow you to assemble a high-quality structure with your own hands, without spending a lot of money on hiring specialists and materials.

The first thing any builder faces is the design of future work. In the case of building a staircase, you will need to create an actual drawing to scale.

It is a drawing, not sketches on a piece of cardboard or a pack of cigarettes. This approach will allow you to avoid common errors in the manufacture and assembly of parts.

Terminological dictionary

Before starting the story about installing a wooden staircase with your own hands, let's plunge a little into the world of terms and concepts.

Our task is to study the main parts that make up a wooden staircase:

• Bowstring– a support beam that stands at a slope and holds the steps. A special feature of the bowstrings is that the steps are inserted into grooves sawn into the body of the board. In the diagram, this detail is shown on the left side of the viewer.
• Kosour– the purpose is similar to a bowstring, but there is a difference in the structure of the part. If in the first case the steps were installed in grooves, then here the support is cut right on the top edge of the board, and the steps are laid on top. In the diagram it is located on the right.
• Tread or step- This is the part of the structure that a moving person steps on. You can also hear the name – step cover.
• Riser– this is the side decorative part of the step, installed vertically. It is not a load-bearing element, so some designs do not provide for its presence at all.
• Support pillars– there are starting, finishing and turning posts. They are the main load-bearing element for stair railing. Rotary ones are installed if the structure has more than one flight.
• Handrails- This is a holder on which a person leans when ascending or descending.
• Balusters– vertical elements that form the filling of the railing. Unlike pillars, they are not supports; however, when firmly fixed, they significantly enhance the strength of the entire fence structure.
• Ordinary stage– a standard flight step with fixed dimensions.
• Frieze steps– the first and last stages of the flight. They may differ from ordinary ones in size and shape, compensating for the remaining distance when dividing the span height by the number of steps.

Explanation! This means that the distance between the floors of the first and second floors is rarely a multiple of the height of the steps. Because of this, the lower step has different dimensions. And the upper frieze step extends into the same plane as the upper platform, and depending on the fastening of the stringer, it can be completely retracted or protruding, with a larger tread.

The designs that we will look at today are called marching ones. They are characterized by the presence of straight, level sections of ascent. Depending on the height of the span, the space for the stairs and the number of floors, single-flight and multi-flight structures are arranged.

Multi-flight stairs must have a rotation: 90, 180 or 270 degrees. The degree of rotation, again, depends on the space in which the staircase is located. In the first two options the number of marches is two, and in the last - three.

The more turns, the more compact the staircase can be made. To connect the marches, intermediate platforms and winder steps are used.

The turntable is a horizontal plane. It is usually located in the middle of the span, dividing the climb into two equal sections.

Winder steps, as if part spiral staircase, provide a smooth rise during a turn. They can be located either in the middle of the span or closer to the level of the first floor, reducing the first flight, down to several steps. In this case, the spread is most often placed in the corner of the room.

The step itself is a trapezoid irregular shape and is mounted around a rotating support column in compliance with the overall height of the risers and a certain degree of displacement.

Drawing up a drawing

So, we have become aware of the main elements that make up a wooden flight of stairs. As you already understand, this is what we will be collecting in this article. Now you can safely move on to creating a drawing.

First of all, we advise you to seek help from a professional designer who will correctly calculate the amount of material, dimensions of the structure, optimal shape and other design features. Naturally, you will have to spend money, but sometimes saving can become even more expensive.

If you don’t have the opportunity to spend additional money, you can use free online designers stairs

To work with these tools, you do not need any specific computer knowledge. Everything is extremely simple and intuitive. All you need to do is accurately take all measurements on site and indicate them on the calculation page.

Frame stairs are increasingly gaining increased demand and popularity. Undoubtedly, this is due to the fact that in addition to strength and durability, they can be made in countless different shapes and designs. This article will be of interest to those who set out to make not just a typical staircase, but a real highlight of their home.

By choosing wooden stairs on a metal frame, you are making a choice in favor of practicality, reliability and modernity. With great dignity frame technology has its adaptive properties, first you can make the frame of the staircase with your own hands with the expectation that it will fit into the overall design idea premises, or you can build a rough version of the frame, and then cover it with suitable material.

The combination of metal and wood is one of the most successful design solutions regarding the interior. Thanks to successful combination beauty and strength, structures made of wood and/or metal are popular among builders and owners of country cottages. This is one of the rare moments when builders and owners, based on their tastes and preferences, clearly agree on one thing, the choice of wooden stairs on a metal frame.

Metal ladder with wood trim will create an original atmosphere and interior in the house in a classic or old style. Possibility of decoration with forged and wooden elements, this is a real work of art that will give any room a truly noble and respectable look.

An elegant metal staircase, decorated with wooden steps, looks fast and light, while remaining a reliable and durable structure that can withstand significant loads over many years of operation. Metal is the strength and wear resistance of the staircase, and steps made of wood are comfort and style. The metal staircase and wooden steps guarantee ease of descent and/or ascent for all members of your family, including the elderly, children and pets.

We calculate the metal frame of the stairs

Wooden stairs on a metal base are made from light or durable types of metal, an important indicator of which is resistance to corrosion. The technology for constructing wooden stairs with a metal frame involves partial or complete covering of visible metal surfaces tree.

Having set a goal to design and build a staircase yourself, it is important first of all to perform an accurate calculation metal frame stairs, so that unpleasant moments do not arise in the future.

The main indicator from which all calculations of the staircase frame are based on the width of the human step.

On average, this figure is 57-64 centimeters. Based on the above indicator, the ratio of step and riser is determined.

• S is the width of the step,
• P is the riser height.

The formula will be as follows:

In addition, it is necessary to calculate the formula for the ease of use of the stairs:

And also the formula for the safety condition:

All quantities cannot be taken into account separately from each other; it is important to perform the growth, taking into account all design parameters, and for this it is necessary to make a clear analysis of the source data.

Do-it-yourself cladding of a metal staircase frame with wood

The most popular finishing method for minimum costs is the installation of wooden steps to the frame of a metal staircase. And the remaining visible parts of the structure are simply painted in suitable color As a result, the metal staircase looks quite harmonious and natural.

If we talk about completely covering the metal frame of a staircase with wood, then the process includes finishing:

• substaircase space,
• steps,
• risers,
• imitation of a wooden bowstring.

After such “disguise”, the metal frame becomes invisible, and the staircase is visually indistinguishable from a wooden one.

To design exclusive stairs, valuable wood species are used:

The above tree species have high aesthetic as well as performance properties.

The hardness of oak wood is several times higher than the hardness of pine wood, and is compared with the hardness of metal alloys. The natural material unique and resistant to mechanical damage and wear. When choosing oak, the service life of the steps is equal to the life of the frame itself.

DIY installation of a metal staircase frame

As for installation and operation, wooden stairs on a metal frame are practically unpretentious. There are several options for installing them. If the owner decides to independently install the metal frame of the stairs in the house, he should take a closer look at structures made from ready-made and prefabricated modules.

They have the appearance of a designer, and are presented in separate parts that are easily assembled into flights of stairs, connecting to each other in accordance with the attached instructions. Such modules are produced at industrial equipment according to established GOST standards for wooden and metal staircase structures. It is important to remember that such stairs require frequent care and special maintenance to eliminate possible backlashes and tighten connections.

All staircase structures are subject to periodic inspection and testing to ensure their safe operation.

Fastening wooden steps to a metal frame.

Basic moments:

• In each step of the metal frame, a mark is made for two mounting holes, every 15-20 cm, we retreat from the edge of the tread by no less than 2 cm.
• If the steps are attached to the frame using ordinary self-tapping screws, then the holes in the metal frame are drilled into a “undertight” hole.
• To compensate for stress when tightening parts, fasteners with washers are used.

Even the best-made metal frame can have slight differences in height between parts. To ensure that the wooden overlays adhere well to the surface, a backing is laid on it. For fixation, use conventional mounting adhesive with a filler effect. It fills voids and forms a durable layer that is resistant to crushing.

The use of polyurethane foam in this option is absolutely excluded; dried foam can wrinkle, which leads to corrosion, loosening and creaking of the steps. The most reliable and popular material for the substrate is plywood.

To sum it up, it’s worth saying that a wooden staircase with a metal frame with your own hands is the ideal combination important points: durability metal structure and aesthetics wooden stairs. No other material has such warmth and attractiveness as wood. In addition to its aesthetic appeal, a wooden staircase pleasantly surprises with its accessibility financial side. You won't find cheaper or more reliable materials.

This article describes how to attach steps to the metal frame of your staircase under construction using various combinations of fastening materials and general design, i.e. for stairs on bowstrings or stringers.

To begin with, you need to decide which steps will have to be attached. In most cases, the material for making steps is wood and self-installation staircases, this is the main one, although companies specializing in staircase production and installation make steps from glass, stone, and various polymers.

Technologically, fastening comes down to choosing a method for securing the step slab to a rigid or slightly movable metal frame. If the design uses powerful stringers (under flights of stairs) or bowstrings (on the sides of a flight of stairs), then the step is less susceptible to dynamic loads (except for the bending of the step itself under the weight of a person), and with more lightweight structures, for example, stairs on welded stringers made of profile pipe, dynamic loads are greater. It is because of the mobility stair elements, glue is not used in these connections, except when installed on a solid monolithic surface.

Steps can be fixed:
1. furniture bolts;
2. self-tapping screws;
3. futorka;
4. Fisher fasteners.

Fastening steps to a metal frame with furniture bolts

Fastening steps with furniture bolts

The simplest and most reliable way to install treads to the base. In this case, drill through the step with a drill with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bolt body and the base (angle flange or stringer body). The wide head of a furniture bolt (anodized, galvanized or painted) hides minor defects when drilling, and its profiled part under the head prevents it from turning when tightened. During installation, do not tighten the nut more than permissible, because

the metal head of the bolt will simply push through the solid wood.

The disadvantages of this method include the presence of the bolt head on the surface of the step, especially if the fastening is carried out according to an asymmetrical pattern, and the need to access the space underneath to tighten the nut, which is not always possible. P.s. Sometimes in these cases, bolts with a regular head and a wide washer can be used, but at the base (stringer or corner) a thread is cut or a threaded sleeve (nut) is welded in and a countersunk is made in the surface of the step with a diameter sufficient to use the wrench head the right size. For this option, you can pre-select flat plastic furniture plugs of the required diameter and color.

Advantages: convenience, simplicity, reliability and speed of fastening; availability of quick disassembly if necessary (restoration, dismantling, replacement of treads).

Fastening steps to a metal frame with self-tapping screws

Fastening steps with self-tapping screws

The good thing about installing steps with self-tapping screws is that all fastening elements are located in the riser part and the external decorative finish is not affected.

It is advisable to use powerful self-tapping screws with a deep cross-shaped or hexagonal groove for fastening to prevent the groove from licking off when tightening.

Nowadays, roofing self-tapping screws, which have a hexagonal head and a drill-shaped tip, are often used to fasten steps. It is worth paying attention to the fact that such self-tapping screws are produced for wood and metal and differ in the diameter of the drill (thinner for wood).

How to attach wooden steps to a metal stringer?

If the installation is carried out through the wall of a profile pipe of a metal frame, then there is a natural desire to use roofing screws for metal and immediately stitch through the metal and wood of the steps, but it is worth understanding that the diameter of the drill for wood is much smaller than the diameter of the turns, which ensures a good engagement area for the screw in a solid board, as opposed to a metal screw.

Self-tapping screws with a countersunk head are convenient to use if the bottom surface of the stairs is visible. At the same time, in metal structures, a secretion is immediately made under the cone-shaped cap. It is worth noting that if the steps are not made of pine (relatively soft wood), but from larch, beech, ash or oak, then to screw in a self-tapping screw with a diameter of 5-6 mm, you will need to make preliminary holes in the steps with a diameter of 3-4 mm (according to the diameter of the main body self-tapping screw - where there is no thread), otherwise the self-tapping screw will not screw in completely.

Fastening the steps to the metal frame with a footer

Foot for fastening the step

Let us immediately clarify that a futorka is a metal bushing with internal and external threads. This method of fastening steps can be considered optimal in terms of concealment of mounting elements and ease of installation and dismantling of treads, but it can only be used for dense types of wood, is quite labor-intensive, requires stationary preparation and strict compliance with the drawings, because You can’t fix anything here on the spot. In addition, fastening the step with a foot to the metal frame can be done both from below (on the shelf of a corner or stringer) and from the side at the end (string). It is this method or its analogue that is used in modern staircase construction by large companies, for example, the German company KENNGOT. They have designer staircases with treads made of wood, acrylic, stone and threaded bushings for on-site installation.

Technologically, in this case, a fitting with an external thread diameter of about 20-22 mm and an internal thread of 8-10 mm is taken (on the forums they write about using a regular stud with an M20 thread in which a hole is drilled and the thread is cut), in a step with a cutter (the cutter does not have a large cone-shaped part ) a hole is made required depth and the thread is cut. Such a large diameter is justified by the need for a sufficient depth of thread grooves in the wood to securely connect the parts. Using glue (for example, Kleiberit Supratac), the futorka is screwed into solid wood. Now the steps can simply be screwed to them (more than once) with a regular bolt or stud with a decorative cap nut.

Fastening steps to a metal frame using Fisher fasteners

Fastening the step to the corrugated pipe (Fisher)

Enough new way fasteners based on the use of Fisher polymer fasteners, on one side of which there is a sleeve large diameter with a hole in the center and conical notches that work like a herringbone (it gets hammered into the hole easily, but resists coming out), and on the other - a sleeve that opens when screwed into the screw.

Before installation, cores from the kit are placed into the holes on the metal frame, the steps are placed in their places and the marks are pressed. The steps are being drilled. Then the Fisher fasteners are installed in their sockets, secured with self-tapping screws, and the step is placed on them. Unfortunately, there was no personal experience with using such fasteners for stairs, so it is still difficult to say how this fastening behaves, but it is obvious that dismantling the steps in this case will most likely smooth out the polymer splines and will require their replacement. In addition, it is hard to believe that the plastic sleeve will stay in the wooden socket for the entire life of the ladder. Most likely, under the influence of vibrations and bending loads, the steps will loosen these fasteners. Perhaps they can be strengthened using glue.

What should you pay attention to when choosing a step mounting option?

The choice of fastening option should be made at the stage of staircase development.

When designing a metal frame, it is determined whether the lower part of the staircase will be open, whether there will be access from below the steps, whether the mounting elements will be painted and with what, whether the absence of any elements (bolt heads or furniture plugs) on the surface of the steps is important.

When building a staircase with your own hands, you often weld a structure from channels (stringers) and a corner (steps, ties). This option is easier to sew from the bottom decorative material. Drill the corners under the steps from above, and then screw them in from below with roofing screws.

For the option of modern stairs on stringers made of a profile pipe, repeating the shape of the staircase, long furniture bolts M8-10 can be used, stitching through the step and stringer, with a decorative galvanized nut at the bottom. You can order steps with footers, but you must be 100% sure of the dimensions. Also for the version with self-tapping screws you can profile pipe The stringer can be drilled at the top with a little more than the diameter of the self-tapping screw, and at the bottom with a diameter of 12-13, where furniture plugs can then be installed. The self-tapping screw (with a body with a diameter of 5-6 mm) is screwed in from below using a magnetized screwdriver or a screwdriver with a flexible attachment. A screwdriver usually pulls screws through better.

In any case, you should try to design the staircase so that the step rests on the shelf of an angle, channel or corrugated pipe and is attracted to them by fastening, and does not hang on point fasteners. Over time, any fastening weakens, especially in wood, and therefore many serious companies, after constructing a staircase, recommend re-stretching the entire structure after a year or two.

Staircase on a metal frame. Soundproofing experience

22/06/2009 22:19:58

Staircase designs vary and, depending on the materials used, are most often divided into wooden, metal and concrete (stone). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages. When designing a staircase, you must first of all consider such properties as price, aesthetics (beauty), load on the structure, practicality (wear resistance, noise generated when walking, etc.). In this article I will not consider design features staircase design, such as inclination angle, riser height and tread width, etc. There are a lot of books and materials on the Internet on this topic. Let’s assume that conditions allow us to install a comfortable staircase that meets all the requirements of the “convenience and safety formulas.” Which material to choose?

Traditionally, wood is used to construct stairs. Wood is a warm material, has a beautiful appearance, and is pleasant to walk on. A wooden staircase is quite light, which means it does not create excessive load on the supporting structures. However, wood also has disadvantages. First of all, it is creaking and noise when walking. Of course, a staircase made to all standards from valuable wood, as a rule, does not dry out or creak, but it is very expensive. Inexpensive stairs are most often made of pine and spruce (often not dried enough), which means that over time such a staircase will lose its initial geometric parameters and begin to creak. In addition, pine and spruce are soft species and are susceptible to mechanical damage. Birch, oak, beech and more expensive wood species are much more resistant to mechanical stress but are two, three or more times more expensive than coniferous trees.

Often used in homes concrete stairs. Sometimes flights of stairs are purchased from factories, but more often they make a metal frame, arrange formwork and pour concrete right on site. Structurally, concrete stairs can be anything you want, if you correctly calculate the loads, reinforcement and grade of concrete. Concrete stairs are the quietest when walking, but very heavy. It is impossible to support massive concrete stairs simply on floor slabs. The support of concrete stairs must be provided by supporting structures. In addition, concrete stairs require additional cladding. Most often used as cladding ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, but also a natural stone and a tree.

Another type of stairs is metal. More precisely, purely metal stairs are rarely used in houses. Most often we are talking about stairs on a metal frame. Stringers or bowstrings are made from channels (12-18), and the bases for the steps are made from a corner (most often 40), which is welded to the channels. The steps for such stairs are made of wood or metal. Advantages metal stairs a lot of. Firstly, it is quite light in weight. Such stairs can be supported on floor slabs. Secondly, metal stairs are quite durable and can withstand heavy loads. Thirdly, they do not lose their properties over time. The disadvantages are rather inherent not in the metal frame itself, but in the cladding. The steps made from pine on a metal frame also begin to creak over time. To minimize this process, the steps are attached to the metal frame not directly, but through plywood. Plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm is attached to the metal frame using countersunk bolts, and wooden steps with a thickness of at least 40 mm are glued to the plywood using liquid nails. Thus, plywood performs several functions at once - it acts as reinforcement that takes on the load, distributes the load, and also hides the load-bearing fasteners. The metal frame is also good because the steps can be replaced over time (for example, pine with African mahogany) without any difficulties. However, it is worth mentioning the most important disadvantage of stairs on a metal frame - noise. Steps on such a staircase will be heard by everyone in the household, even if a cat is walking up the stairs.

The higher the weight of the wooden cladding, the less the metal frame knocks. Thus, to soundproof a metal structure, it needs to be loaded with something. Steps, risers, balusters, pillars, railings. All this is understandable. Is there anything else that can be done? I asked myself the same question. Having experience in car soundproofing, I decided to apply my knowledge in the field of construction. When it comes to noise insulation of a metal structure, the technology of metal vibration insulation and dampening of vibrations created in the metal is usually used. After all, any sound is a process of vibration and friction. In order to vibration-proof the stairs, I decided to use the materials I had tested from the StandardPlast company. Before that, I worked with such materials as Vibroplast, Vizomat, Vizomat MP. But the company introduced new material under the Bimast brand. I decided to use the most expensive material, Bimast Bomb, 4 mm thick, which, according to the manufacturer, combats vibro-acoustic noise better than other materials. But I actually chose this material only for the simple reason that it is the heaviest in the StandardPlast line of materials. In addition, Bimast material does not require additional heating and cuts well.

Bimast Bomb consists of two layers - elastic bitumen mastic and heavy bituminous material. This is clearly visible in the photograph. Looking at the material, I got the impression that Bimast Bomb is Vibroplast and Vizomat MP glued together, which is probably not entirely true.

To begin with, I decided to paste over the stringer - a channel with inside. To do this, I thoroughly washed the channel from rust and degreased it with white spirit. The material cuts really well. To keep things in order, I warmed up the mastic a little with a regular household hairdryer and started gluing it. When I covered almost the entire channel, I began to compare (using the tapping method) the sound of the treated channel and the untreated one.

The result, of course, was, but minimal. Bimast Bomb did not significantly reduce the noise level from footsteps, although with light tapping a certain reduction in the vibration level was felt. The thing is that the weight of the material in relation to the eighteenth channel was insignificant. A channel 3.5 meters long took only one sheet of Bimast Bomb weighing a couple of kilograms. This amount was not enough to effectively dampen the thick channel. In addition, the lion's share of the noise was created by the corners, and not by the stringer-channel itself.

Or maybe the material is bad? When I had a roll of Uniflex material left over from waterproofing the foundation, I used it to soundproof metal window trims. The ebb tides clattered during the rain like empty tin cans, and when I covered the ebb tides on the inside with heavy bituminous material Uniflex, and also planted the ebb tides on polyurethane foam, I understood what silence in the house is. Even during a heavy downpour, I only saw water on the glass, but did not hear the sound of falling drops. The Uniflex material also had a thickness of 4 mm, but its weight was slightly greater.

In principle, it is not necessary to buy expensive branded materials for sound insulation. Any heavy bitumen materials are suitable for vibration insulation, because vibrations are dampened primarily by weight. Thus, Uniflex is in no way inferior to Bimast Bomb in terms of effectiveness, but it is worth noting that waterproofing material no adhesive layer. It won't just stick to metal. It needs to be melted! It is advisable to prime the surface with a bitumen primer. I fused the material with regular gas burner Kovea.

All photographs show the staircase without cladding, with temporary steps.

From experience, I can say that on horizontal and vertical surfaces such vibration isolation lasts more or less, but when the material is glued to the metal from below, it usually falls off within six months to a year. 😉

Bimast Bomb or Vizomat MP?

I did another experiment. The second channel of the flight of stairs was treated with the familiar Vizomat MP material, 2.7 mm thick. Without measurements, Vizomat MP is visually actually thinner than Bimast, lighter and more rigid. Cutting Vizomat MP with scissors is more difficult. Vizomat MP must be thoroughly heated with a hairdryer. Vizomat MP adheres to metal worse. And the result turned out to be worse. The sound from impacts on metal of different intensities is muffled on the channel that is treated with Bimast Bomb material. As a result, Bimast Bomb is really still best material in the product line from the company StandardPlast, although it is 25% more expensive at retail.

Thus I would like to summarize my research. The costs of soundproofing channels that act as stringers are not comparable to the result.

However, the work is not finished yet. It is necessary to find out whether it makes sense to paste over the corners that act as a frame for steps and risers. After all, they create the lion's share of the noise.

And a little more theory

Just in case, for those who are interested, I will indicate several parameters for competent calculation of the stairs.

• Riser - step height
• Tread - step width
• The optimal slope of the stairs is 30-35 degrees
• The slope of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees
• Double riser height + step width should be within 57-65 cm
• The sum of the width and height in an optimal staircase should be 45-46 cm (staircase safety formula)
• The optimal step width is 28-30 cm (at least 25 cm)
• Riser height 14-17 cm (no more than 20 cm)
• The difference between the width and height of the step should be about 12 cm (staircase comfort formula)
• The height from the plane of the stairs to the ceiling must be at least 2 m.
• The number of steps in the staircase must be odd (whichever foot we enter the staircase with is the one we leave with)

Add a comment:

2016-03-15 14:23:05 | Tatiana Borzova
Andrey, can I ask a question? House blocks Yutong 375, I already wrote that I confirm all your comments about this material, in the article about the shortcomings of this material and what the sellers are silent about. Metal frame staircase, how did you attach it? I have floors wooden joists. I want to put it on the main foundation, the design of the house allows me to make a hole in the wall and support 4 racks, a turning platform, on the foundation.

2016-03-05 23:00:06 | Alexander
It rings, it means it's playing. Additional boil some kind of scarf on the inside for rigidity. I have a similar design, well welded a little differently, but the idea is the same. If you remove the turning part of the staircase, Straight part Channel 12 wall 1 cm. Length 4.5 m. Step corner 5 wall thickness 5 mm. At the top, the ladder is welded to the I-beam. So despite the fact that there is only metal all around, nothing rattles. Achieve rigidity and there will be happiness.

2016-01-06 07:17:07 | SAU
I have a design of steps made from corners like Andrey’s, but there is no ringing or vibration when walking. The five is screwed on top of the corners with self-tapping screws from below, and the carpet is on top of the five.

Most likely there is no ringing or vibration due to the fact that additional supports made of a square profile are welded in the middle under the channels.

2014-06-01 15:23:23 | Andrey_K
I agree with Paladin! This design really contributes to good acoustics) However, I think, the heavy channel contributes to it even more. I've been racking my brains for a long time about the stairs - I'll install them soon. But I will make stringers from thin metal profile, from the same material from which the frame is made, it will be much lighter. True, there are some nuances - I will also attach them rigidly - to the frame. but I’m thinking of using rubber gaskets at the attachment points. Much will depend on the material of the steps - its acoustic properties, but I really want to make the steps and the landing platform transparent. As for bitumen and bituminous materials, so much of this goodness surrounds us in real life, that I tried to avoid using them inside the house. For vibration and hydraulic decoupling (1 to 2), I used (as far as I know, the only ones in Russia) materials from a plant in Nizhny (like) Novgorod (Abris). Their feature and advantage is that synthetic rubber is used as the main material. The materials are not cheap - the toad was not just strangling...) But, in my humble opinion, and as the British testify, “I’m not rich enough to buy cheap things” ( Russian in-t"Miser pays twice"). So I had to be patient :)

2013-09-23 23:05:01 | Andrey_B
Evgeniy, do you always take everything literally or sometimes do you try to understand it?
1. Formula of convenience and 12 cm - we are not talking about the staircase as a whole, but about the steps.
2. You can call whatever you want a riser. I personally don't mind. But take my word for it, not all stairs are made of wood. In simple words, the most ordinary staircase is made of concrete, like in entrances. Where did the thickness of the material go, huh? And where is her riser?
3. Optimal slope is a subjective concept. I have 4 stairs at home. In my life I have no difficulty with either 20 degrees or 45. But from my point of view (supported, by the way, by theory) 30-35 degrees is the most convenient angle. If it seems to you that this is not so and your opinion is the only correct one, I see no point in discussing it.

2013-09-23 18:53:21 | Eugene
“The difference between the width and height of the stairs should be about 12 cm (formula for the convenience of stairs)” - how does this happen, I have a staircase with a height of 295 cm and what width do you think it should have??? It’s even scary to imagine!

With the modern rhythm of life most of population dreams of building a suburban or a private house. But often when building a house with 2 floors or more, the problem of installing wooden stairs arises.

When building a two-story private house, the question arises about installing a staircase. The most suitable material for its construction is wood.

Of course, you can get out of the situation by purchasing a ready-made design or ordering it, but this will be much more expensive. You can make it yourself, but you need to study the nuances of the work.

Preparatory work

First, the tools are prepared. Mainly:

• hacksaw;
• roulette;
• level;
• brushes;
• plane;
• pencil and other tools depending on the design (for example, a screwdriver).

Before starting, you need to make a drawing and make an estimate, where the height and width are calculated, the shape of the steps and the method of their fastening are designed. But the design takes into account the space that the staircase should allow, the configuration of the structure and the lifting height, as well as the aesthetic appearance.

According to their own design features stairs are:

• screw;
• marching.

Screw structures are rarely used even if the area of ​​the room is wooden house very little. The small demand for this type of ladder is due to the fact that it is inconvenient to use, for example, for lifting or lowering massive things. It performs a single function - descent or ascent. Due to its design, which consists in the fact that the support is a single pillar, it is necessary to calculate everything down to the smallest detail, since if even a minor mistake is made, the unexpected can happen.

Marching stairs are installed quite often. Its appearance in a wooden house consists of marches consisting of steps and platforms. In turn, they are single-flight and multi-flight. Using this type of model, using all your imagination, you can create stairs to suit any design.

Flight stairs can be straight, they can be made with either one flight or two, which are separated by platforms. The disadvantage of these stairs is that they are very massive and small room their use is unwise.

They mainly use rotating double-flight staircases, since this design saves space. You can install marches with a curved design, which has a convenient approach angle, where the steps are rotary. When making multi-flight stairs, you can not use platforms, but make turning steps.

To choose a suitable design, firstly, you need to select a space into which the staircase will fit and will not create inconvenience during use. Secondly, you need to make measurements, calculations and draw a drawing with the location of all elements.

Components of the structure

A stringer is a load-bearing structure that performs the supporting function of steps and risers, and also bears all the loads.

The bowstring also performs a supporting function. It is a beam with recesses into which the end sides of the steps are installed. Due to the fact that the bowstring cannot withstand heavy loads, it is rarely used.

Steps. The design of these elements consists of horizontal (treads) and vertical (risers) beams. If desired, the stairs can be built without risers, and the gap between the steps will not be closed. In this case, the ladder is considered fragile.

The shape of the steps is made rectangular, rotary, and to give the design originality - radius.

Railings are wooden trim elements such as balusters and handrails. They come in different shapes. Usually the shape depends on the customer's wishes, since they can be made to order.

With a multi-flight design, it is additionally installed support pillar or several pillars at turns.

Installation of wooden stairs

Before installing the stairs, all parts are pre-painted.

To install the stringer to the wall, it is necessary that the walls are perfectly smooth.

After preparing and painting all the elements of the future staircase in a wooden house, you can begin assembly and installation.

First of all, they begin to install those elements that will later be difficult to approach. If the house is two-story, first install the fence on the top floor, since then it will be difficult to install facing boards. When the fence is installed, begin marking the locations of stringers and intermediate posts on the walls. Problems may arise when performing this work due to uneven walls. To avoid problems, before starting to install the structure, you need to take care of leveling the walls, but this is required if the stringer is attached directly to the wall. If the project included fastening to the upper wall stringer and to auxiliary pillars with an indentation from the wall, then alignment is not necessary.

To avoid mistakes when drilling holes, it is best to do them directly on site in elements that have already been painted in advance. The evenness and accuracy of the structure depends on correctly made holes.

In order not to make a mistake, you first need to make a hole in the stringer or in the post for the pin, then attach the element to the location and make a mark through the hole. Such work may not be possible for one person, since some parts are very heavy. A cross is drawn on the mark, the length of the strips is 3-4 cm, which will later help to align the hole. The stringers are attached using blind plugs and dowels, which are installed about 3 pieces for every 2 m of the structure.

Next, you can begin the process of attaching the steps. First you need to mark the places where the steps will be located. To do this, you need to rely on previously made calculations and drawings. When marking, a level is used to draw horizontal lines to avoid unevenness. It is necessary to take into account that the fastening mark is first made on one stringer or bowstring. After this, the step is installed and the level is checked, and only then can markings be made on the second stringer. To avoid mistakes, it is not recommended to fasten the steps immediately, but only after all the markings have been completed.

The steps are marked from bottom to top, and when it comes to the last step, you need to check its size. If it does not match, then the marking is adjusted. Only after all the markings have been made correctly can you begin to drill the steps and fasten them.

Along the drawn lines on the bowstring, a corner is installed using self-tapping screws, and steps are subsequently installed on it, which are secured with self-tapping screws. To fasten the step you will need 4 self-tapping screws, two on each side, but if you increase their number, you can eliminate the creaking. Flight of stairs ready.

Installation of railings for stairs: features

The installation of railings must be taken very seriously. They must be cut at the same angle, which creates difficulties when sawing by hand, as there is a possibility of error. In this regard, the cut is made on a special machine. Fence posts are secured to the floor with hardware.

To attach the handrail, a recess with a smaller diameter than the rod is drilled in the string, balusters and in the handrail itself. Then the structure is installed on the pins and secured with self-tapping screws. To ensure stability of the fence, the lower end of the handrail is attached to a post, and the upper end is attached to a wall or a wooden post. The fastening must be strong, since a large load occurs in these places.

Individual construction of houses is almost never complete without the use of stairs. The main requirement for all types of these structures is the safety of movement on them.

Stair structures must be strong and stable. Therefore, the question of how to attach a staircase to the ceiling is very relevant in any private home. Let's take a closer look various options fixation of staircase structures depending on their type.

During operation, the staircase structure is subjected to various types of permanent and temporary loads. In addition to its own weight, it must also withstand the weight of a person and objects moved along it. Therefore, the issue of durable fastening of such structures in the house is very important.

Stair structures are usually fixed to:

• Semi;
• Top floor slab or beam;
• Inter-march platforms;
• To the walls– it is recommended to attach the structure only to load-bearing walls made of concrete, timber or brick. The wall thickness must be at least 25 cm.

Important! Products cannot be fixed to asbestos-cement, plasterboard walls, or partitions laid out in one brick.

The method of fastening largely depends on:

• Type of staircase structure;
• The material from which it is made;
• Product weight;
• Its dimensions;
• Floor, ceiling and wall materials.

The main types of staircase structures are:

• Marching– may consist of one or more marches.
• supported by bowstrings, stringers, support post or bolts. Most often, combined supports are used.
• Complex designs– a combination of marches and spiral sections, several marches with turns at different angles.

The method of fixing the structure depends on many factors - photo

The most common in private homes are marching structures made of wood. A single-flight product can have the simplest fastening - to the floor and ceiling. It is a very reliable and stable system that does not require additional intermediate fastenings.

If there are two or more marches, then additional fixation of the structure is necessary. Complex models may have combined fastenings, depending on the shape and type of support.

Openings for installation of staircases

An opening for stairs in the ceiling must be provided at the design stage of the building.

Its dimensions depend on:

• Dimensions of the future design;
• Type of stairs;
• Type of overlap.

The hole in the ceiling under the stairs must have a width equal to the width of the flight with the addition of gaps necessary for fastening the structure and its finishing. The length of the opening largely depends on the angle of inclination of the product.

But for safety purposes, the hole in the ceiling for the stairs must allow a person to descend and ascend in full height. Openings are made in rectangular, square or round shapes.

Fixing stairs to various types of interfloor ceilings

The quality of the material of the staircase structure is of great importance for its reliability and safety. But the strength of fixation of all its elements among themselves, as well as correct fastening stairs to the ceiling, inter-flight platforms, floors and walls play a much larger role.

The interfloor ceiling when installing stairs can be made of various materials:

• Wood – the most common type of flooring is wooden beams.
• Reinforced concrete slabs.
• Steel beams are rarely used in private construction.

Depending on the type of load-bearing structures of the floor, various methods of fixing staircase structures to them are possible.

Interfloor ceilings on wooden beams

If the floors in the house are made on wooden beams, then the flight of stairs should be laid on the beam without distortions. Its fixation is carried out using special fastening systems, depending on the material of the staircase and the type of its supports.

The supports of the staircase structure in the form or stringer are directly adjacent to the floor or platform between the spans, transferring all the loads to them.

• If not installed correctly wooden elements cracks may form in the supports. This quite often happens when fixing a bowstring or stringer with beams and slabs into a lock.
• Both vertical and horizontal loads act on the lower support of the structure. The same thing happens when the support is tightly fixed to the ceiling.
• If the bowstring or stringer rests on the ceiling only with its horizontal part, then the upper support will only be subject to vertical loads from the stairs. Consequently, the risk of cracks in the march is minimized.
• A gap of about 1 cm is required between the vertical end of the supporting element and the load-bearing structures of the floor.

Fixation wooden stringers to longitudinal or cross beams made of wood can be carried out with a cut on the staircase support, or on a beam element.

There are a lot of options for fixing stair structures to wooden beams. Often the choice of a specific method depends on various nuances of the product itself and how the opening in the ceiling under the stairs is made.

Features of fastening stairs with metal stringers

Staircase structures on metal supports are stable and durable. If interfloor load-bearing structures are made of reinforced concrete beams, then the metal support can simply be welded to them.

But another option is also possible:

• The edge of the stringer, with which it will be attached to the beam or ceiling slab, is cut at the required angle.
• Steel plates or corners are welded to the ends of the support.
• Attaching the stringer to reinforced concrete structure made using bolts or anchors.

To fix the steel ladder to wooden beam You can install a special metal plate with through holes on the upper end of the stringer.

• The support is attached to it through these holes. The thickness of the metal must be at least 5 mm.
• To ensure that the plate does not interfere with the decorative finishing, it must be recessed into the beam. This can be done by cutting a rectangular groove in the beam material to fit the plate.
• You can do this kind of work with your own hands using a chisel and a hammer, but the process will be very labor-intensive. It is much easier to cut a groove using a router. Width and height seat should be 3-5 mm than the dimensions of the plate.
• When choosing suitable hardware for fastening metal stringer, it is necessary to take into account permanent and temporary loads. Constant load is the weight of the staircase structure itself, variable loads are the weight of a person and objects being moved.
• For example, mass metal product is 140 kg, the average weight of a person is 90 kg. Therefore, the minimum load will be 230 kg.

If you use self-tapping screws measuring 10 x 120 mm as fasteners, each of which can withstand a load of 100 kg, then the use of 8 hardware allows a maximum load on the fastener of 800 kg. A sufficient safety margin is provided with this fastening.

Due to the wide variety of options, the most suitable fastening of the stairs to the floor must be selected taking into account all individual characteristics designs. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust such work to professionals.

The price of their services will largely depend on the complexity of the product being installed. But you shouldn’t skimp on this - the safety of the entire structure plays a very important role. More information on the topic " Correct installation stairs to floors various types” can be obtained from the video in this article.

Installing a wooden staircase is not difficult, even beginners can handle it perfectly A wooden staircase is the most common type of staircase structures leading to the second floor of a two-story mansion, cottage, or even a yacht on a pontoon. The individuality of wood gives a home its uniqueness and unique character. In addition, a wooden staircase fills the house with notes of warmth and comfort, which cannot be said about staircases made of stone or metal. But besides the positive aspects, wooden stairs also have their negative aspects - they are more susceptible to damage and wear than others.

Step-by-step installation of wooden stairs

Before you begin installing stairs to the second floor, it would be correct to first process all the component parts of the product. For this purpose, antiseptic agents are used that protect the tree from fungi and various infections. Varnishes, paints and drying oils can give the stairs a more aesthetic appearance. After all this, the wood needs to be thoroughly dried.

Installing a wooden staircase is a step-by-step process. The first step is to collect parts to which access will later be limited. Then the internal parts are installed.

First you need to decide on the appearance of the staircase, the type of its construction and, of course, the location

Installers can assemble the stairs, but to save money, you can do it yourself. This is usually done by two people. First, determine the location of the staircase and its appearance. If the hall has a large enough space, then the staircase can be placed in the center of the room, so it can serve as an interior decoration. If the space is not large, then it is better to make the structure modest and compact. After all this, you can begin assembling the staircase itself.

Step-by-step installation of stairs:

• Install wall stringers; for this purpose, holes are drilled in the wall and secured using wood grouse or dowels;
• We assemble the outer string or bowstring. Here all parts are attached to liquid nails;
• Installation of steps. They are bolted to the supporting stringers;
• Fencing assembly. Installation and fastening of railings.

When assembling a ladder with your own hands, you must comply with all the requirements stipulated by GOST. You also need to take into account the strength of the floor on which your stairs will be located and possible loads. The smallest load your ladder should withstand is 400 kg.

How to attach a ladder to a wall

You need to attach the ladder to the wall so that it is reliable and durable; the safety of operation will depend on this. The methods of attachment are also different. They depend on the type of your staircase, its weight and type, as well as on the material from which the walls and the staircase itself are made.

You can attach the ladder to the wall using different fastening systems. Each fastening requires non-standard solutions and an individual approach.

The ladder must be able to support your weight when going up and down between floors. Therefore, what material the wall is made of is very important. It is recommended to attach stairs to walls made of concrete or brick, in a word, to load-bearing walls or to the strongest walls of the house. The structure cannot be mounted on plasterboard walls.

The process of installing a staircase structure should be approached competently, since the safety of the future staircase will depend on this

There are types of fasteners:

• Spiky;
• Mechanical;
• Glue.

For more reliable fixation, the elements are glued before fastening. The main safety factor for a staircase is not only the material from which your structure is made, but the quality of the fasteners.

Load-bearing staircase pillar: how to fix it to the floor

When building a staircase, main task is to make it strong, reliable and durable. To do this, you need to correctly install the supporting structures of the stairs. They can be a stringer, a bowstring or a supporting pole.

It is necessary to fasten the staircase post, like the stringer, efficiently. After all, they will support the entire heavy staircase structure.

The main fastener for poles is a screw - a hairpin. Thanks to its hardened metal rod, the ladder post will be securely fastened. For the job you will also need other tools: drill, drills and wrenches.

You can make a staircase reliable and durable if you install the supporting structures correctly

Ladder post fastening diagram:

• First, we drill holes in the post and in the base;
• We tighten the screw - hairpin into the base with a key;
• Then we install the post on a screw - a hairpin and insert it into the gearbox;
• The gearbox mark should look down and coincide with the very axis of the screw - stud;
• Use a hex wrench to tighten the post to the base;
• We close the hole with the gearbox with a wooden plug.

Securing a stair post to the floor is not an easy task. But using new ideas and materials, you can do this quickly and easily.

How often do wooden stairs need repairs?

One of the problems that all residents of private houses face is the repair of wooden stairs. It wears out quickly if it is walked up and down a large number of people, doing this quite often. The structure is deteriorating.

Repair of wooden stairs can be cosmetic, routine or major. The type of repairs you make depends on the extent of the damage to the staircase.

Cosmetic repair is painting the stairs, improving it appearance. Maintenance, mainly performed in case of breakdown individual elements your design. A major overhaul is a complete reconstruction of the staircase. It is performed if the main part of the staircase is dismantled.

Behind the wooden stairs you need ongoing care, because its functionality and appearance depend on this

Main indications for overhaul stairs:

• The steps and the entire structure as a whole creak;
• The railings are wobbly;
• The steps are bent or broken;
• The array of stringers has rotted;
• The bowstring cracked;
• The balusters were damaged.

In order to repair the structure, you need to dismantle the damaged parts of the lift, or the stairs as a whole, and replace them with new ones.

DIY installation of a wooden staircase (video)

Wooden stairs are usually more troublesome than stone or wooden stairs. You can manufacture and install such stairs, as well as repair them, yourself, or you can take a price list and choose an organization that will perform these works in your home. Choose an organization that is licensed for this type of work. After all, in the case of a poorly made staircase, you can file a lawsuit against this organization.