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Working for several years as the chief technologist of LLC PO Khimtek, I repeatedly had to communicate with consumers of paint and varnish products, advise them in case of problems with the application and, to be honest, deal with claims. Communicating with consumers, I noticed that not always the problems that arise with the consumer are caused by the quality of the applied LKM. If LMB does not meet the requirements of regulatory documentation, then everything is clear here - it must be immediately returned to the manufacturer. But very often the problems that consumers have when using paintwork , are caused by ignorance of their properties and features, the rules for preparing the surface for painting, preparing the material for painting, violation of painting conditions, etc. Moreover, these are not some high matters and secret knowledge from the field of chemistry and technology. paintwork but the most elementary things. And it looks all the more strange when this lack of knowledge, and sometimes even a clear disregard for them, comes from experienced production workers, specialists with paint and varnish education, experienced painters. On the other hand, the set of indicators described in GOST or TU in the quality certificate does not cover the entire range of properties of characteristics and features. LKM.
The most typical, frequently encountered problem that consumers face when using paints and varnishes can be expressed in one short phrase: "Material does not dry." The answer question immediately arises - “How does it not dry out?” The concept of “does not dry” in different people causes completely different associations - for example, the painted surface sticks after the drying time has elapsed - this is the same "does not dry." But why doesn't it dry? If the primer or enamel does not dry out within the time specified in the regulatory documentation, subject to the painting conditions - temperature regime, humidity, then the problem is really in the quality paintwork . But, for example, if given material applied to winter time in an unheated room at a temperature of +5 ° C, then the problem is not in the quality of the material, but in non-compliance with the temperature regime. paintwork , which has a drying time of 24 hours at +20°C, will not be able to dry at a lower temperature in the same time. Also important point is the humidity at which the material dries. It must be taken into account that when high humidity(more than 85%) the material dries longer. In this case, for faster drying of paintwork materials, it is necessary to ensure the flow of warm, dry air into the room where the painting or drying of the painted product takes place - for example, use heat guns or heat exchangers. Or be patient.
Another variant of this problem is also possible, when the consumer assures thatpaintwork“does not dry” - you come to understand and see this picture: you touch the painted surface and do not feel the effect of sticking, surface layer coating completely dry. But the enamel is applied in a very thick layer and when pressed, the coating is crushed, it is soft. What happened? As a rule, when applying the material in a thick layer, upper layer dries in the allotted time, forming a continuous film, which prevents the release of solvent vapors from the thickness of the coating into the air working area. As a result, under the top layer of the cured coating remained uncured , and the coating itself, when pressed, sags and seems soft and “not dry”. What to do to avoid this problem? Either apply the material in a thinner layer, or, if it is necessary to obtain a thick coating, apply paintwork materials in several layers with obligatory interlayer drying. By the way, a similar problem may arise in the case of painting an uneven, inhomogeneous surface - in places of welding seams, junctions of planes, in the presence of grooves, depressions and dents - i.e. where the thickness of the paint layer also naturally changes upwards.
The next fairly common problem is cracking of the coating after drying. Example - one shipyard painted deck superstructures on a ship. The enamel dried, and some time later, the coating began to crack. When identifying the causes of this phenomenon, the following was found out: painting was carried out on metal surfaces, in hot weather at a temperature of more than +30 ° C, with undiluted enamel, using brushes and rollers. The thickness of the dried layer of enamel in easily accessible for painting (and for sun rays) was 200 - 400 µm, and in hard-to-reach places - no more than 100 µm. Where direct sunlight fell on the thick-layer coating, cracking occurred, and in shady places that were difficult to reach for painting, the coating of the same enamel, but of a smaller thickness, remained intact. The reason is obvious - high temperature the top layer of enamel dried very quickly and “locked” the solvent, which is part of the paintwork, in the thickness of the coating. Since the painted surface was metallic, it heated up, the residual solvent boiled in the thickness of the coating, and under its pressure cracking of the upper layer occurred (Fig. 1).
Rice. 1 - Cracking of a thick coating.
Solventevaporated, the coating dried up, but its integrity was violated. In places where there was no contact with sunlight, the drying regime was more gentle (thinner coating layer, lower temperature), and the integrity of the coating was not compromised. Conclusion - again, apply the material in a thinner layer (with dilution to the working viscosity with a solvent), and if necessary to obtain a thick coating, apply paintwork materials in several layers with obligatory interlayer drying.
Another one typical problem- consumer buys, For example, , conducts incoming control in the laboratory, paints the model of the product there - everything is in order, then launches the enamel into production, paints the pre-primed metal surface and gets a problem - after drying, the enamel peels off the surface with a “stocking”. With a step-by-step study of the painting process, the following is found out - in production, before applying enamel, the primed surface is wiped with a rag soaked in (so to speak, control degreasing and dedusting), and then immediately paint(when painting the model of the product, this stage was absent). But enamels based on polyvinylchloride chlorinated resin ( , , etc.) are not compatible with aliphatic hydrocarbons - . The enamel film dried up without contact with the primed substrate, so the coating began to lag behind the surface in the form of a film. The solution is simple - for degreasing the surface it is better to use , included in the applied paintwork material. In this case it would fit , , butyl acetate or mixed solvents - , or
A characteristic problem is the runoff of paintwork materials from a vertical or inclined surface during painting. In most cases, the cause is an incorrectly selected working viscosity of the material or an excessive thickness of the paint layer, when the paintwork material begins to flow from the surface under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to correctly select the working viscosity of paintwork materials, depending on the method of application, the distance from the spray nozzle to the object being painted (for pneumatic and airless painting), the pressure under which the spray of the paintwork material is supplied. With the right combination of these parameters, the problem of runoff becomes completely solvable.
If we are already talking about the methods of applying paintwork materials, then it is useful to recall another problem that arises when applying the material in such a way as spraying, especially pneumatic spraying - this is “chalking”. The essence of the problem is that after application by pneumatic spraying and drying of paintwork materials, if you draw a “dusty” trace from the paint on the hand, and on the painted surface - a trace from the hand. When control coloring from the arbitration sample (and different ways- in bulk, with a brush, pneumatic spraying, with dilution to the working viscosity and without it, in layers of various thicknesses) there is no “chalking” effect. The reason for this phenomenon is still the same - the distance from the spray gun to the surface to be painted is incorrectly selected (Fig. 2).
Rice. 2 - Defect "overexposure" when painting from a long distance.
The painter painted from a long distance (in order to capture a large area of the painted surface), the working viscosity during pneumatic spraying is in the range of 18 - 22 s; the paint, flying out of the nozzle in the form of drops, in the process of overcoming this distance loses a significant amount of solvent (which evaporates corny) and reaches the surface not as drops of liquid paintwork materials, but as almost dried clots that stick to the surface without spreading and without forming a continuous homogeneous coatings. Such a defect painters call "overexposure". It is these dried and fragile paint particles that give the appearance of “chalking”.
In general, problems with coatings can arise where they are not expected, for example, when preparing a material for painting. Example - customer purchased with a high solids content and, as is often the case in such cases, exhibiting the property of thixotropy (the ability to reduce viscosity and show fluidity when external shear forces are applied - for example, during mixing). Carries out an entrance control, and declares that liquid, does not meet the requirements of technical specifications in terms of "conditional viscosity". We check the arbitration sample - everything is in order, the viscosity is normal. We are interested in the consumer whether he mixed the primer before checking - the answer is “yes, with a mechanical hand mixer”. There is nothing to do but go. We arrive at the enterprise, they show us a drum with a primer, they show us the same “mechanical hand mixer”. It turns out that this is an ordinary low-speed screwdriver with a nozzle 30 - 35 cm long. And the height of the drum with products is at least half a meter, i.e. this mixer is immersed at best to the middle of the drum and certainly does not mix the products in the container throughout the entire volume. Since the primer is high in solids, a partial separation naturally occurred and the pigment phase with some of the binder went lower, and in the subsurface layer the viscosity (and solids) decreased. At the same time, there is no sediment at the bottom of the container. Fortunately, he brought with him a normal mechanical stirrer with a nozzle of the required length, and after proper mixing, the check showed full compliance with the value of the relative viscosity declared in the quality certificate. The problem is the lack of the ability to properly mix paintwork materials in a container. First, it is necessary to thoroughly mix the bottom layer with rotational rotation, especially in the case of the formation of pigment sediment on the bottom of the container, and then, without stopping rotation, mix the contents of the container throughout its entire volume with reciprocating movements (up and down) (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 - Proper mixing of paintwork materials in a container.
Of course, mixing is preferably carried out with a high-speed manual mechanical mixer, for example, a drill with a whisk attachment.
I will add that after mixing in containers, especially after long-term storage, it must be filtered.
Along with this they read:
Wooden surfaces must be pre-cycled and sanded, then remove the remnants of abrasive and dust. metal surfaces clean from corrosion products, degrease and prime. Concrete, brick and cement surfaces must first be puttied and primed. Remove old peeling coating from previously painted surfaces. Surfaces previously painted with chalk or lime paints should be cleaned until the old coating is completely removed. Wash the surface from grease and other contaminants with soapy water, washing powder or soda solution, then dry.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
Stir the enamel thoroughly before use, dilute with white spirit or turpentine if necessary. It is necessary to apply PF-115 enamel in two layers on a dry prepared surface with a brush, roller, spray or dipping method. Apply the second layer after the first has completely dried. Clean tools with solvent.
PRECAUTIONARY MEASURES:
FIRE AND EXPLOSION ENAMEL! PROTECT FROM FIRE! Work to be carried out on outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Smoking and open flames are prohibited. Vapors form explosive mixtures with air. When working, it is recommended to use overalls and personal protective equipment for respiratory, vision and skin. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, respiratory organs. May cause drowsiness, dizziness and nausea. In case of contact with eyes, rinse with water and seek medical advice immediately. Keep out of the reach of children.
STORAGE:
When packaged, store indoors at a temperature environment from - 40 to + 40 ° C away from sources of fire, heating and heating devices. After storage at low temperatures, keep the enamel at room temperature then mix thoroughly.
DISPOSAL:
Empty cans and dried paint residues are taken out to household waste collection points.
The reason for writing this article was the trouble that happened to me.
Returning from work, I drove to the market in order to purchase paint for painting doors. Actually, here's the bastard:
Being confident in the good sealing of the jar (remembering the Soviet packaging, which could not be opened without breaking a couple of screwdrivers), I delivered it in my hands. Standing at a stop, and intercepting the jar more comfortably, I squeezed it a little from the sides with my fingers. Then the lid miraculously bounced off, and its contents sloshed into my jeans in a savory stream. The entire left calf and back of the sandals were covered in paint. Jeans were soaked through. And everything would be fine if both jeans and sandals were not new gold. It makes no sense to run back to the market for a solvent. And do not wipe off, and it will dry in five minutes.
In short, I went home, on the way already thinking about how to wipe my pockets so that I could at least make shorts out of jeans. The way home took about 40 minutes, plus the temperature was about +30. Personally, I had no hope. Unfortunately, there is no photo of the tragedy, you yourself understand that it was necessary to act quickly.
Now I turn from tears to action. Upon arrival, they carefully took off my pants and with rods ... started cleaning. For cleaning you need:
- latex gloves;
- solvent (White spirit);
- laundry soap;
- water;
- patience.
Putting on gloves, we pour a solvent on the paint stain, after which we wet it with water under the tap. The best remedy from everything in the world, whether it's a wound, a runny nose, fuel oil or paint in the end, that is, with good old laundry soap, we begin to wash the places of pollution. After that, we simply wash it. We rinse. We arm ourselves with patience, and in a circle: white spirit - water - soap - wash - rinse - white spirit - water - soap - wash - rinse ... and so on until complete victory.
You need to work carefully so as not to stain clean places. It's best to have a backup just in case. After obtaining an acceptable result, we look in the sun to see if there are any tinted fibers left. If not, we send our jeans to washing machine. We erase. Again, check in the sun. We dry.
Here is the actual result.
WITH front side I found no traces. On the wrong side, as proof of the veracity of my story, a slight tint.
But I didn’t intend to wear it inside out :).
Let me remind you that this was not a drop, but it was soaked through. I then had to scrub my feet from the paint. Do not be alarmed if water with paint from jeans runs during washing. You can always overwrite symmetrically. But personally I didn't have to do it at all.
As a result: the place that was filled with paint is circled.
Of the costs: half a bottle of solvent, rubber gloves.
From income: new jeans saved, money saved for new ones, time saved to go to the market, a sense of accomplishment from a miracle.
The recipe was developed by a very wise and experienced person - my beloved mother. For which many thanks to her! I hope that this article will help to get clean from a difficult situation, thinking and creative people.
Surely many people have encountered the problem of removing paint stains from various objects. This may be a mark on clothing resulting from contact with a freshly painted surface or a blot on a car body. It is also very important to know how to wash off traces of paint from the skin. So the question of how to wipe the paint does not lose its relevance. There can be no unequivocal answer to it due to the different structure of the materials that need to be cleaned.
There is no universal solvent, so each case requires a separate approach. It is necessary to choose a substance that will completely remove the stain and at the same time not spoil the thing itself. So if there is no absolute certainty in the final result, it is better to first test the chosen option in some inconspicuous place. If the result is positive, you can safely proceed to the main work.
Removing dye from fabrics
The most frequently asked question is how to get rid of paint on clothes. There are several approaches that depend on the structure of the fabric and the severity of the contamination. If a trace is left on thick fabric like jeans, then the dried layer can be carefully peeled off with a knife. It will be quite simple to do this, but you should not be too zealous so as not to cut the thing itself. White spirit solvent or nail polish remover will help get rid of the remaining traces.
It is necessary to take a cotton swab and apply a little solvent on it, and then rub the dirty surface with smooth movements until the traces of paint are completely eliminated. After that, the clothes must be hung out in fresh air to erode. bad smell. Then it would be better to treat the surface with a special stain remover and wash it in a typewriter. Almost certainly, after carrying out these procedures, there will be no trace of the former pollution. But there is also back side medals.
If the jeans are of low quality, then along with the paint in which they are smeared, the paint with which the fabric itself was dyed can also dissolve. And then you have to buy special paint for jeans and reapply the product. On some forums on the Internet, you can read that you can remove such pollution with the help of a stain remover, if you rub the problem area with it for a long time. But it doesn't always work. In most cases, traces still remain, and you can simply wipe a hole in the fabric.
As for things from a more delicate fabric, solvents will not work here. A more delicate approach is needed. Slight contamination can be removed with laundry soap. To do this, you need to soak the thing in warm water and rub the soiled area until the result is obtained. In general, one of the best, oddly enough, is sunflower oil. In particular, it is used to remove paint from the surface of the skin, since it does not pose a danger to humans, unlike chemical solvents.
The principle of working with oil is the same as with white spirit: it is applied to a cotton swab, which then rubs the place of contamination. After this, the clothes must be aired and washed in a typewriter with the addition of a stain remover. Particularly difficult stubborn stains may require several cleaning cycles. It is worth noting that there are cases when it is impossible to save a damaged item without causing damage to it. In such situations, you need to decide whether it is worth wasting time and effort on work that will not succeed.
It is very difficult to recognize such a case at first glance, but if the first few minutes of the rescue did not bring any results at all, then the idea is most likely doomed to failure. It is important to remember that it is much easier to get rid of fresh stains than to wash off the paint when it has already integrated into the structure of the fabric. Therefore, you need not to linger, but as quickly as possible to deal with the problem.
How to get rid of old paint on metal and other surfaces?
As for the surface of the car, here the task becomes more complicated. It is necessary to remove one paint from another, and so that the native layer does not suffer. In such cases, a special paint remover is used, which is dissolved in water. Before starting work, it is better to test the resulting mixture on the inside of the body, where an unsuccessfully chosen ratio of water and solvent, in which case it will be imperceptible. To do this, a small area of paint is treated with a solution and wait 5-7 minutes. If the top layer of paint has not dissolved, you can safely start working with pollution.
The rule also applies here, the faster the cleaning is done, the easier it will be to wipe off a layer of excess paint. To work, you need to take soft tissue which will not scratch the surface of the body. When wiping, do not apply too much force so as not to deform the car. If the contamination is not washed off by hand, abrasive polishing of the body can help. It will surely remove all traces and stains. But after carrying out such a procedure, it is better to open the treated surface with a layer of protective varnish, as it will suffer during polishing.
Lacquer not only gives the car a shine, but also protects the body from the negative effects of environmental factors, so its absence can be a serious breach in protection. Removing paint from a car is a very delicate procedure, so if you have Money it is better to entrust it to professionals. They have enough experience and the whole set necessary tools for the whole process to be successful. The craftsmen can also carry out post-processing of the cleaned surface upon request of the client.
Sometimes the question arises how to clean old paint before new staining. This is the simplest possible case. If old layer moved away and is well peeled, it can be removed with a spatula or other fine tools. Otherwise, you just need to treat the entire surface with a solvent, and then remove the softened layer with the same spatula. Complete removal old paint allows you not to worry about saving the bottom layer, which greatly simplifies the procedure.
If you decide to paint the car with PF 115 paint, be patient and take a few tools. Remember that you should not apply the substance to the surface without carefully preparing it. In addition, when you open the can, you may find that the paint is too thick - then you will have to dilute it. The choice of solvent must be taken very carefully - the wrong thinner can not only bring no result, but also ruin the paint.
What is PF 115
PF 115 is an alkyd enamel intended for painting various surfaces. One of its advantages is that it can be bought in a regular store. building materials for ridiculous money. Many people use it for painting wooden products and plastered walls - so why not spruce up your car with pF 115? The composition of enamel PF 115 includes the following components:
- Alkyd varnish;
- Solvents;
- Coloring pigments;
- Pentaphthalic varnish - a thick solution of resin with vegetable oils, rosin and glycerin.
After the varnish is ready, it is mixed in equal proportions with a solvent - and the finished alkyd enamel PF 115 is obtained.
How PF 115 alkyd enamel differs from acrylic paints
Novice car enthusiasts believe that there is nothing wrong with tidying up the details of the "iron horse" using acrylic paint. Of course, such car enamels are very popular in Lately, and all thanks to the saturation of colors and high uniformity. In addition, acrylic paint does not need to be varnished, and if it thickens, then it is enough to dilute it cold water. The disadvantages of this enamel are its low covering ability (the paint must be applied in several layers) and high cost. It is much better to use PF 115 alkyd car enamel - it perfectly paints the surface in one layer and has a low price.
Universal enamel In addition, PF 115 is highly elastic and long term services. In addition, such enamel reliably protects the surface of the car from corrosion, and even a novice driver knows that rust is the main enemy of the “iron horse”. By the way, if the first signs of corrosion appear on your car, take action immediately. If you do nothing, you risk throwing a huge amount of money on car repairs.
In addition, such alkyd enamel is resistant to temperature changes. Due to our climate, this feature of the substance is extremely relevant. Having painted the PF 115 car, you can be sure that it will not peel off at the first frost.
Due to the fact that PF 115 enamel withstands wet cleaning, you can safely wash your car with conventional chemicals. Of course, it is worth using sparing products - they not only clean the surface of the car with high quality, but also do not leave scratches. After visiting the car wash, the enamel will not peel off, and the vehicle will look just great.
How to paint a car with PF 115 enamel
Painting a car is a very responsible matter, so take it very seriously.
- Preparation for work. First of all, clean the surface of the machine from dust. If you start applying enamel to a dirty car, it will look extremely unpresentable.
- Sanding. After getting rid of road dust and rust, process the car sandpaper. For thorough sanding, fine-grained sandpaper is perfect for you - coarser paper can severely damage the surface of the car. If the coating does not become very smooth, use drying oil.
Stages of car painting - Primer. After making sure that there are no tubercles and scratches left on the surface of the car, feel free to proceed with the primer. Many motorists choose a primer in sprayers, and not in jars - this way the substance is better applied and more securely fixed. In most cases, one layer of soil is sufficient. Remember that the primer must dry well, so wait ten to fifteen minutes and apply alkyd enamel.
- Dilution of paint. Remember that in no case should you use water that is diluted acrylic enamel. It is much more reasonable to use white spirit - this is the solvent used by the manufacturers of PF 115 themselves. Please note that this thinner should be stored in a tightly closed container away from sunlight. Remember that this substance is gasoline, so do not open and pour it near a source of heat or ignition.
How to work with white spirit solvent
Before diluting PF 115 with this substance, put on gloves. In addition, you must be in a well-ventilated area. Some novice car enthusiasts believe that it is possible to paint a car on the street, and then wonder why the enamel lies unevenly. The thing is that the natural level of moisture and weathering do not contribute to painting a car. It is much better to choose a special box for these purposes. Remember that the solvent has a negative effect on the human body.
- If the concentration of white spirit vapor is higher than normal, then you will get a headache and irritation will appear in the eyes.
- Do not allow paint thinner to enter the respiratory tract - it can cause pulmonary edema or bronchopneumonia.
- If white spirit enters the stomach, it will corrode it. In addition, after the diluent has been washed out of the stomach, its vapors will remain in the nasal cavity for four to five days.
If you do everything right, then after twenty-four hours the PF 115 enamel will dry completely. Then your car will have a rich color and glossy shine.
