Professional builders always carry out repairs with high quality, neatly and beautifully. How to learn to do repair operations in such an impeccable style? For example, competently perform sanding of the walls after puttying, in order to then apply the finish coat you like. We offer a step-by-step briefing for masters in such a difficult and responsible business as wall polishing.
Sanding the wall is a mandatory procedure after plastering.Purpose of wall polishing
Surface sanding is the work that follows the plastering process and consists in smoothing out unevenness on the dried layer.
Plastering the surface of the walls pursues the following tasks:
- insulation of the room outside and inside the building with an additional sand-cement or gypsum layer;
- sealing irregularities, cracks, chips on the surface;
- giving an aesthetic appearance;
- preparation for subsequent design processing;
- an obstacle to moisture permeability, the development of fungus, the creation of additional adhesion, sound absorption and other things.
Wall sanding before application finish coat The plaster mixture is a cement-sand, gypsum, lime, magnesia composition, including various large and small fractions that cannot be dissolved (that is, they cannot turn into a perfectly smooth mass). For this reason, high-quality grinding of the walls after puttying is always required.
Often in professional terminology there are the words "grinding" or "sanding". You need to know that such definitions are synonymous words. Their practical significance is reduced to one function: leveling the plastered surface to perfect smoothness.
Wall sanding is a must. How to properly sand putty
In order for the work to be possible even for a non-specialist, and the result turned out to be “on top”, it is necessary to decide in advance: how and with what to grind the walls after puttying? The first rule to remember is that the exposure time must be taken into account, i.e. it is necessary to start smoothing the surface no earlier than after the expiration of a day from the moment the plastering is completed. This is necessary so that the layer of applied cement-sand (or other type) material dries thoroughly.
In modern construction and repair business, two absolutely different method sanding:
- dry method;
- wet method.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each of them.
You can grind different ways The main differences of the presented methods
For those who want to know how to sand the walls after puttying without dust, the wet sanding method is ideal. The main feature is that wet sanding of putty requires that a well-dried plastered surface be re-wetted with high quality. Dry the treated wall for a day, then wet it again? At first glance, it is illogical. But, it is the repeated wetting that will increase the adhesive properties of the plaster material, as well as gently remove irregularities. And most importantly - to really reduce the amount of dust.
Wet sanding generates much less dust After this method of surface treatment, it is sufficient to perform wet cleaning of the floor.
Dry sanding of putty does not involve re-wetting the wall. Here, work is performed precisely on the dried section of the wall or ceiling. The disadvantage of this method is the abundant appearance of dust that floats in the air and settles on everything not only within the room. To clean the room from accumulations of dust and layers of plaster removed from the wall, it will not be enough just to wash the floor. Here you need high-quality ventilation, air irrigation from a spray bottle, dust removal throughout the apartment.
The disadvantage of dry grinding is the strong appearance of dust. How to sand the walls?
Correctly smoothing the walls or ceiling after puttying means performing all operations in strict order. And the first operation is the choice of a tool for adjusting the outer surface of the walls. The specifics of the work is determined by the type of canvas to be sanded and the quality requirements for the final result.
Depending on the required degree of smoothing (leveling the surface for wallpapering or achieving perfect smoothness for finishing painting the walls), the approach to completing the task will be different.
Before you start sanding the walls, decide on the tool How to sand the walls after plastering?
Among the essential construction tools at hand, it is worth pointing out the following.
Good lighting is essential for quality work. Stages of work or how to properly sand the walls after puttying
The surface treated (for example) with a gypsum mixture has dried for more than a day, and now you can start smoothing it out.
You need to start with a detailed analysis of the plastered walls (ceiling). Direct the light source perpendicular to the wall and as close as possible to carefully examine the condition of the coating and any irregularities. Circle all identified defects. with a simple pencil. It is undesirable to use a marker, because. the remnants of the coloring matter absorbed into the wall will be difficult to remove.
Having studied upper layer visually (i.e., having examined all the irregularities, protruding fractions and other defects), it is easy to determine which mesh should be selected at the beginning of the work for grinding the putty, i.e. sandpaper grain size. As mentioned above, you need to complete the work with a grid with the largest possible grain.
You need to start work with a detailed analysis of the surface Sanding the wall putty starts from the ceiling and in a clockwise circular motion, the movement is directed downwards. It is convenient to capture the territory of the wall in narrow strips (up to 1 m). You should not apply force when performing, because. as a result, the top layer can be severely damaged.
In assortment building materials there is a starting type of putty and a finishing one. The latter has a smoother finish appearance and when choosing which sand to sand (edit) finishing putty, you should give preference to smoother types of sandpaper (No. 200-220). The movements of the master should also be light, careful.
When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements. The main thing is that the final result is good.
When choosing a skin for puttying walls after the starting coating, there are no special requirements How to sand the ceiling after puttying
Grinding work on the surface of the walls from the ceiling operations are practically no different. The scheme of work is the same: we select the material, inspect the surface for defects, remove defects with improvised or mechanized means.
Complexity repair work with the ceiling is a physical inconvenience for the master. You should not use a ladder or tripod; scaffolding is more convenient in this matter.
The ceiling grinding scheme is no different from wall works Rush in the process of smoothing the ceiling or walls is not needed! Neither when choosing a consumable tool, nor when doing work. All tasks are done carefully, carefully and slowly.
If you can not choose which sandpaper to sand putty, ask for advice from a specialist repairer or sales assistant. IN last resort, try on small area each tool, controlling the force and speed of movement on the surface.
Novice craftsmen should not use mechanized tools. It is more reasonable to carry out the first experiments on adjusting the outer wall covering with improvised means (sandpaper, abrasive mesh, etc.)
Grinding of surfaces must be done carefully and slowly Monitoring the process of sanding walls and ceilings after puttying
This is perhaps the most important rule for an employee. The process of control is concluded in the following points.
- Do not change the location of the light source to avoid refraction of light rays.
- Perform operations in small areas, moving from top to bottom.
- If defects in work are found (for example, an area that has been cleaned too much), this place should be re-plastered, wait until the material dries, and sand again.
- Use quality tool and follow the instructions carefully.
- Check the evenness of the cleaned (polished) surface with a building level or a ruler under the light source: if the shadow does not fall, then the ruler fits absolutely, i.e. turned out to be a perfectly flat plane.
Video: Sanding walls for painting
Video: Sanding walls
In this article, we will learn how and with what to grind walls, what tools and materials to use, get acquainted with interesting nuances that we may encounter during work. The same operation is also called wall sanding.
Why you need to sand the walls
All the procedures that we did before: plastering, puttying - these are all procedures for leveling the wall. Plaster - rough, putty - thin. And now the process of sanding or polishing the walls begins.
Even after applying a thin layer of putty, in any case, small bumps remain on the wall, tubercles, formed mainly by the sharp ends of the spatula, which remain when we disperse the putty and connect one part of the putty wall to another.
That is why when puttying it is better to use a large spatula so that the wall leveling area is maximized. But the joints, no matter how hard we try, are still traceable. Therefore, after you puttied the wall, you need to let it dry (at least a day) and you can start sanding the walls.
IMPORTANT!
Do not try to accidentally prime the wall after puttying! Grinding begins immediately after puttying!
What tools and materials are needed in order to sand the walls
So, let's look at what we need to have in order for wall polishing to start.
For sanding walls, a sanding block is usually used:
In addition to the bar, for grinding it is necessary to have sandpaper or a grinding mesh, which are fixed into the bar before starting work:
Sandpaper on the left in the picture, sanding mesh on the right.
What to be guided by when choosing a bar and grinding material (sandpaper, mesh)
Grinding mesh
The advantage of the sanding mesh is that it does not get clogged with putty dust during operation. The mesh itself is perforated and all ground putty will pass through the mesh. It must be changed during natural wear and tear, which is determined by appearance used grid. If the mesh is torn in places or you already feel that grinding is not going as efficiently, change the mesh to a new one.
Usually the mesh is sold in ready-made pieces right to the size of the bar and you just need to install it on the bar and work. But, you need to remember that the size of the bars is also different, as shown in the picture. Therefore, taking the grid, immediately select the bar for its size. Mesh is more expensive than sandpaper.
Sandpaper
Sandpaper during operation will become clogged with ground dust and the sandpaper will have to be changed more often than the mesh. You need to be aware that sandpaper, although cheaper than mesh, is also not a cheap material. It is for sale in various options: large rolls, small rollers, rectangular pieces.
If you decide to sand with sandpaper, then you need to figure out how you will cut it, taking into account the size of the bar, so that waste is as small as possible. Of course, you can refuse to cut the sandpaper, and buy cut pieces directly ready for the bars, but it will be more expensive! There is the concept of sandpaper graininess (paper with different grains).
In order not to blow your mind on this topic, buy paper with a grain of 60, 80 and 100 in a small amount in the store and try to work with it. There is no exact recommendation on which grain to take. But it’s better not to take less than 60 for sure, because it will be a very rough sandpaper. More than 100 is also not very good, because it will be very clogged with dust during processing and will have to be changed very often.
IMPORTANT!
The walls that you will be sanding usually go further either for wallpapering or for painting. In the case of painting, the wall must be absolutely smooth, I would even say polished. In this case, the craftsmen grind the wall 2 times. The first time, for example, with 60 sandpaper, in order to remove obvious large frozen pieces of putty, and the second time they take an even thinner sandpaper, for example, with a grain of 120, and already polish the wall with it. But in the case of wallpaper, this is clearly a redundant operation. For wallpaper, it is enough to go through the wall once.
Grinding stones catalog
Grinding process
The sanding process is much simpler than, for example, puttying or plastering. All you need to do is to take a bar, fasten a piece of sandpaper or sanding mesh to it with special clamps and start working. This is what the sanding bars look like, ready to go. On the left is a bar with sandpaper installed, on the right - with a sanding grid installed.
It can be seen from the figure that the size of a piece of sandpaper or mesh should be longer than the plane of the bar itself, just as long as it is possible to fix the sandpaper or mesh with the help of bar clamps on both sides.
IMPORTANT!
Remember, wall sanding is a very dusty job! Be sure to read the recommendations in the article before you start working.
When you have installed the sanding material on the block and have taken all protective measures against building dust, you can start working. It is best to start sanding the wall from the corner and go towards the other corner. I always sand the walls from top to bottom in small strips (about a meter wide). We polished a strip a meter wide from top to bottom, moved on to the next one.
How to sand walls? Take the bar in your hand and start with a little pressure to pass it along the puttied wall. Movements: up-down, left-right. The main thing is to make sure that in the place where the wall is already smooth, you do not need to continue rubbing for a long time. You must remember that if you rub for a long time, then you can thus wipe off all the putty, which of course is not included in the plans. We made sure that the section of the wall was smooth, almost polished - we went further.
It happens that you come to a section of the wall where for some reason a deep hole has formed. In this case, you do not need to rub a lot and for a long time around the hole in order to grind off the putty around the hole to its bottom. Leave this small area alone. Then, when you sand everything and prime the wall again, you just take rubber spatula, which I mentioned in the article and once again putty this hole with a thin layer of putty flush with the wall.
IMPORTANT!
Of course, I must tell you that wall sanding can be done faster if applied.
When you're done, pick up building level and stick it to the wall. At any position of the level, its plane should fit snugly against the wall along its entire length. There should be no gaps. If, nevertheless, gaps are formed, then you put too much putty in some places. Identify these places and try to grind them off with the same bar.
That's all. In this article, we learned how and with what to grind the walls. However, do not rush to paint the wall or glue the wallpaper. After grinding remained. Did you have sanding problems? How often did you change the sanding on the bar?
No matter how hard you try, it's impossible to get perfect smooth walls after they are putty. In any case, traces of the spatula, uneven transitions of the treated areas, tubercles, depressions and other defects will remain on the surface. That is why you need to grind the walls. Let's figure out how to sand the walls after puttying.
How to sand the walls after puttying?
The first thing to do is to get the right tools and consumables. You will need:
- Several varieties of abrasive mesh or sandpaper.
- Sanding bar.
- Sanding sponge (used for hard-to-reach places).
- Ladder.
- Good lighting: spotlight or pendant lamp.
- Construction spatula small size.
- Personal protective equipment: respirator, goggles, headgear.
Experts recommend sanding the walls after puttying them, before painting the surface or before wallpapering. Often, grinding is carried out with other types construction works. The grinding process is relatively simple, but quite laborious and dusty. How to sand the walls after puttying? At manual grinding you can use sandpaper or a special abrasive mesh. The choice of material depends on the personal preferences of the master.
- Abrasive (grinding) mesh for putty– its advantage lies in the perforated structure. All construction dust will pass through the holes, so when working it does not clog as much as ordinary sandpaper. It is necessary to change the mesh in the course of wear, which can be determined by its appearance: if it starts to tear or you feel that the grinding process is no longer as effective, then it should be replaced. the size of the bars, so you just have to install it and get to work. But remember that the bars are also different, so when purchasing a mesh, consider this factor. The disadvantage of the sanding mesh is a higher price than sandpaper.
- Sandpaper for putty- its main drawback is that during operation it will constantly become clogged with construction dust, so it will have to be changed much more often than the mesh. You can buy sandpaper in the most different options: ready-made pieces, small rollers or large rolls. If you decide to stick with sandpaper in rolls, then you need to decide how you will cut it, taking into account the size of the bar, in order to get a minimum of waste. Of course, you can buy already cut pieces, but such a purchase will cost much more.
In addition, sandpaper has such a thing as graininess, which is indicated by a numbered marking. The choice of grain causes some difficulties for inexperienced craftsmen. The higher the serial number sanding belt, the higher its granularity (the number of grains per square centimeter), and vice versa. For example, coarse-grained tapes are in the following range: from P20 to P220, fine-grained - sandpaper marked from P240 to P2500.
Sanding the walls after puttying is performed in two stages. Here it must be remembered that the first grinding is done with coarse-grained emery, and the final grinding with fine-grained. To carry out repair work in the apartment, sandpaper with a grain size of P80–P280 is mainly used. Not so often (for "jewelry" processing) smaller abrasives can be used - P320-P360. After treating the wall surface with a starting putty, it is recommended to polish it with a coarse sanding P100–P180. Sometimes emery marked P80 is used for primary processing, but this is too rough material and, for example, it is not suitable for painting. After processing the walls with a finishing putty, the surface is polished with fine-grained sandpaper P220-P280.
How to sand the walls after puttying?
Before sanding the walls after puttying, you should make sure that the finishing layer is completely dry and ready for processing. Take care of in advance good lighting- it is necessary that the light on the treated area falls at an angle and only from one side. Remember to take care of your personal safety, always wear goggles, a hat and a respirator. There will be a lot of dust!
Large protrusions can be removed or trimmed with a small, clean spatula. After that, fix a rough skin on a sanding block. It is always necessary to grind the wall in the direction from top to bottom and from left to right, while not the entire surface is processed at once, but is divided into small sections.
If you have never sanded walls before and are not sure if you have chosen the right abrasive grit, then first be sure to practice on small plot somewhere in the corner. After a short sanding, check the result - if you find scratches on the surface, it is better to replace it with an abrasive with a finer grit.
It is still permissible to use coarse-grained emery for wallpapering, but it will no longer be suitable for painting walls, since even small defects should not be allowed - they will very clearly manifest themselves after painting.
When grouting, you can’t press too hard on the emery bar, although, of course, you still have to make some effort. It is not recommended to grind in one place for too long, so as not to overdo it: sanded, examined the surface for irregularities, moved on to the next section. If large depressions are found during the initial polishing process, then it is better to skip them and treat with putty later.
After sanding the main surface of the wall, you need to start processing corners and other hard-to-reach places. In this case, the use of a sanding bar can only harm the putty layer. Therefore, it is best to use sanding sponges that have beveled corners. In the absence of this material, the corners can be sanded with a sheet of fine sandpaper folded in half.
How to sand the ceiling after puttying?
The ceiling attracts no less attention than the walls, and every flaw on its surface will be evident. The technology of grinding this surface is no different from grinding walls, except that it is much more difficult to carry out work on the ceiling. Therefore, in the question of how to sand the ceiling after puttying, it is better to understand, having in the arsenal.
The article is enlightened on the choice of electric grinders for dry grinding of plastered ceilings and walls. For this task, the most efficient machine is one with round working surface rotating around an axis passing through the center of the circle is .There are grinders, the working surface of which oscillates with different amplitudes (from 2 to 6 mm), orbital (eccentric) grinders, as well as a combination of two types (rotary-orbital or rotary-eccentric). Such grinders can also be used at the stage of finishing in construction, but their main purpose is to grind any products of small areas, body repair, decor elements, woodworking.
Consider the main characteristics of grinding machines.
- One of the main characteristics of a power tool is power. Power ensures the productivity of the tool (in this case, the amount of material removed during the grinding process), the resource of the grinder and the duration of continuous operation also depend on power. Thus, if you plan to carry out professional grinding of large areas, then it is better to opt for grinders with an electric motor power of more than 500 watts.
- The efficiency of work will also depend on the diameter (sole), i.e. how larger diameter the working surface of the disk, the greater the area can be processed per unit of time. Most construction grinder discs have a diameter of 150 to 225 mm.
- Dust removal, or rather its efficiency, plays a very important role, because directly affects performance. Dust extraction can be carried out forcibly with an industrial vacuum cleaner or in a special dust bag (usually supplied with the tool). Professionals recommend using a vacuum cleaner.
- The layout of the grinder, namely:
There are two options: the electric motor is located directly above the grinding disc and the option with the electric motor located remotely, i.e. on the handle. Accordingly, the disk drive (rotary movement) is transmitted either in a direct way (the electric motor is above the disk), or through a flexible shaft (the electric motor is located remotely). Both types of drive are quite reliable, but professionals often prefer direct drive. The layout of the grinder with an electric motor located above the grinding disc makes it possible to carry out more efficient dust removal due to vacuum. Some vacuum is created above the working surface of the disk due to the fan located above it. This ensures efficient dust extraction even without the use of a vacuum cleaner. Dust is collected in a special bag that can be hung on the operator's shoulder. vacuum type dust extraction is not carried out on machines with a disc drive from a flexible shaft. Despite these advantages, grinders with an electric motor located above the grinding disc are heavier than grinders with a motor removed from the disc. This complicates the work, especially with extended to the maximum telescopic rod(machine type with variable arm length, see handle type below). Although on some models the vacuum effect is so deep that it allows the grinder to literally stick to a vertical wall.
Handle type.
The long handle of a grinder, often referred to as "". The handle can be either fixed length or variable (). The extended handle of the grinder is convenient for processing surfaces remote from the operator, such as ceilings and high walls. The grinding head itself has a sufficient number of degrees of freedom for grinding at any angle necessary for the operator. 
Hand grinder.
The operator holds the handles (one or two) located near the grinding disc itself. This type of grinder does not allow you to process remote surfaces without the use of auxiliary platforms, ladders or. However, it is light in weight and small in size. Such a compact grinder will be indispensable when working in a limited space. 
Attachment of abrasive material.
Almost all grinders on our market have mounting discs. This type of attachment of sanding paper is very convenient, because. allows you to easily change the used sanding paper. 
Sanding the walls after puttying is a necessary measure for finishing the walls. Excessive granularity and roughness of the surfaces that remain after puttying as a result of the junction of the layers of the mixture is removed. Sanding can be done with a grinder, sanding mesh or fine sandpaper. Wall grouting after puttying is done before wallpapering the surface or doing wall treatment for painting.
How to sand the walls after puttying? For this, special tools for grinding surfaces are used. How to sand the walls after puttying to make the wall as even and smooth as possible:
- For sanding, a sanding block is most often used. Such a device acts like a grater with a manual work basis. The bar is equipped with sandpaper or an abrasive mesh.
- A grinder is best used if grouting needs to be done as quickly as possible. Device selection is based on required power– The higher the power, the faster the sanding will be.
How to sand the putty becomes completely clear. Now it is important to decide not on the device itself, but on the auxiliary materials. Therefore, the question arises: what kind of sandpaper to rub the putty and what mesh is needed for grinding the putty.
What kind of skin to skin and what advantages are determined here:
- It is the most convenient option, as grinding is carried out efficiently and quickly, and most importantly without dust. At the same time, there is no clogging of the material, its high wear resistance is maintained. Grinding mesh requires periodic change during active work. Mesh dimensions and quality can be determined before purchase.
- Sandpaper for grouting putty. Is less good option but quite effective. It is better to choose sandpaper with a grain number of which is 60, 80, 100, and then number 120. It is better to take the material in a small amount, as you should check the compliance. Grain number 60 is most often suitable. Sandpaper with grain number 120 is used for final grinding of the walls.
Sanding putty not only requires special tools and fixtures, but is also performed in accordance with a certain technique. It is important to carry out the treatment without the use of a primer.
On the video: how to grind the wall after puttying.
How wall sanding is done
How to sand the walls after puttying so that the surface becomes perfectly flat? It is important to know the technology and methods of how to sand the walls after puttying. But first you need to decide on some characteristics of the walls in order to choose how to grind the putty.
Putty grouting begins with the choice of tool. If the question arose of which sandpaper to work with, then you should decide on the degree of processing: primary grinding with grain 60, and the last - 120. How to sand the walls of a room with a large area? A machine is best suited for this, although corners, recesses and depressions will still have to be processed manually with sandpaper.
Sanding the walls after puttying is carried out in accordance with the following instructions:
1. First, the most visible irregularities and defects on the surface of the walls are highlighted. What kind of technique is needed for this? A powerful spotlight or lantern that is installed as close as possible to the surface of the wall. Thus, shadows appear on it from the protrusions or depressions of the putty. These places should be circled with a pencil.
2. How to grind putty correctly? It is better to start cleaning the putty from the corner. You need to move from top to bottom, while occupying a strip of about one meter. After processing the designated strip, proceed to the next one. The movements should be spiral.
3. Sanding the putty on the walls should be done carefully, without much effort. In this case, it is better to use sandpaper. You can not press hard on the canvas so that holes do not appear in the putty. And you do not need to align the recesses with the general level.
4. Cleaning the finishing putty consists in the same steps as the starting one. Polishing in this case is done carefully, but with extreme care so as not to damage the putty layer. It is better to sand the finishing putty with sandpaper.
For sanding walls, you do not need to have experience in the construction industry. It is enough to adhere to a certain technology that is very easy to learn and apply.
Ceiling grinding rules
How to sand the ceiling after puttying correctly, what tools and methods should be used for this? The ceiling is polished using almost the same technology as the walls. To perform the work, sandpaper should be prepared. An abrasive mesh may also be useful.
Wet sanding is perfect for this. But in this case, the procedure takes much longer, since after each session you should wait until the surface dries.
The ceiling is usually rubbed with a tool such as Grinder. Sometimes the procedure is done manually. How to sand on the ceiling:
- Sandpaper for puttying the ceiling is the same as for puttying the walls. First, with a grain of 60, and as a polishing tool, sandpaper - 120. If you use the surface for wallpaper, then grinding is done carefully and fully.
- It is necessary to produce a backlight that will highlight all the defects, in relation to which the skin will be produced. The grater is carried out along a dedicated strip from one corner to another.
- Secondary putty should be disposed of in the same way. The choice of tool is the same as for the first layer of putty surface.
- After that, the ceiling is primed and treated with antifungal agents. It does not matter whether the ceiling will be painted or wallpapered in the future.
- To process the corners between the walls and the ceiling, a tool such as a round grinding block is used. We use this technology for overwriting protrusions and curly objects.
In any case, the grout base should be sandpaper or graters in the form of a sanding grid. If it is necessary to paint the ceiling, it is necessary to process it with the moments of puttying.
In places where depressions appear, it is necessary to carry out secondary processing with putty.
Surface treatment after grinding
After surface treatment, it is impossible to proceed to further finishing immediately. First you need to remove all construction dust, which settled on the walls and ceiling during the grinding process. To do this, you can use a tool such as a construction vacuum cleaner.
It is necessary to walk around the entire perimeter of the surface and carefully remove all dust. If it is subsequently mixed with paint or wallpaper paste, lumps and breasts may form.
The second method of cleaning surfaces from dust does not require the use of a special tool, so it is the most acceptable in many cases, although it is much more laborious. The methods used are presented as follows:
- Using a wide brush with soft bristles, brush off the largest number dust. You can use a regular broom. The main thing is not to press hard, as the putty is a very plastic building material.
- After that, a secondary cleaning method is performed. Soak a cloth in cool water and wring it out well. Run the cloth along the walls and ceiling. Textiles should not shed, otherwise traces and stains will remain, which may later show through the paper layer or paint.
- You need to wait until the putty is completely dry, and only then proceed with further finishing. In order not to blur the building mixture, the fabric should be slightly damp.
In any case, dust must be removed completely to avoid corrosion of secondary building materials. You should not be controlled solely with a rag, since it is almost impossible to remove dust in this way.
After cleaning, you need to proceed to further actions: priming and treatment with antifungal agents.
High-quality grinding and further processing before finishing This is the key to a successful renovation. The surface to be sanded can be several types of sandpaper or mesh.
Grinding after puttying the walls must be done without fail, as this solution will become ideal option for a good basis for repair work. Even if the alignment was initially performed poorly, then with the help of further finishing, this defect can be visually compensated. To carry out such a procedure, that is, to wipe the putty, is possible without the involvement of specialists - self-processing is quite suitable.
