When the long-awaited spring comes, many begin to have problems with flooding of cellars and basements. This unpleasant situation happens due to raising the level groundwater. The earth becomes like a sponge that absorbs water and holds it in itself. If the groundwater level rises above the foundation, then moisture seeps into the room through cracks.
The reason for basement flooding is the first aquifer. It is formed from nearby rivers, lakes, and reservoirs. Also, the groundwater level is affected by melted snow and precipitation in the form of rain. There are several ways to help cope with annual flooding. By choosing one of them, you will be able to make your basement dry.
Creation of a drainage system
Drainage is a drainage system consisting of trenches, pipes and a well. With its help, it is possible to prevent flooding of basements, as well as drain land plot. The drainage system is made during the construction of the basement. Right installed system, will help you forget about water in the basement once and for all and protect the foundation from destruction.
How does it work drainage system
The basis of drainage is a pipe large diameter(at least 100 mm). It has holes all over its surface. Through them, groundwater seeps into the pipe and flows into the collector. In order for the system to work well, the following conditions must be created:
- Dig a trench with a slope around the basement below the floor. This will ensure efficient water collection and drainage.
- Be sure to use filter materials (geotextiles and crushed stone) that will protect the pipe from flooding.
- Drain to central sewer, where a large volume of groundwater will accumulate.
What is necessary:
- drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile;
- fine, washed crushed stone;
- geotextile fabric;
- river sand.
Installation
- Make a trench below floor level around the foundation and a deep well at a distance of 10-15 meters from the building. The trench must have a slope sufficient for water to drain.
- Place a geotextile fabric in the dug trench. And then fill it with crushed stone (layer thickness 10 cm). This way you will create a primary layer that filters groundwater.
- At the next stage, lay a drainage pipe (preferably two-layer in geotextile) on a layer of crushed stone. Make sure that the slope is maintained throughout the trench. Using a tee, lay the outlet pipe to the well.
- Cover the laid pipe completely with crushed stone. Leave 20 cm to the top of the trench. Fold the free edges of the geotextile fabric over the crushed stone bedding. This will completely isolate the drainage from the ground. After this, fill the trench with sand.
As a result, you will have a reliable drainage system. Geotextiles and crushed stone act as a filter, preventing the perforated pipe from clogging. And sand will ensure the transport of moisture from the soil surface to the drainage channel.
Conclusion
Drainage channels installed around the basement will help eliminate main reason flooding – high groundwater level. The result of drainage will be dry basement. Unfortunately, this system has its own significant drawback. It is customary (according to technology) to install drainage channels outside the premises, so not all basements can be equipped in this way.
However, in exceptional cases, basement owners can build drainage channels indoors. The installation process is almost the same, with the exception of some moments that occur during the floor screed stage. After installation internal system drainage system, the basement will lose 30 cm of height.
Creation of an automatic water pumping system
Not all basement owners have the opportunity to create a slope with a water drainage system. Therefore, in such areas a different method is used. To dry the room, install automatic system pumping out excess water.
What does that require:
- Create a recess (pit) in the basement. Dig a hole measuring 50x50x50 cm. Then reinforce it with concrete or brickwork - this must be done to prevent the destruction of the walls. Pour 10 cm thick gravel into the hole.
- Purchase a special pump that automatically turns on when a certain level of water accumulates.
Installation
Place the pump in the dug pit, connect the hoses to it and take them away from the room. When the volume of groundwater increases, it will first accumulate in the hole. The pump will start working, reacting to the rising level, and pump out excess moisture. This will continue until the groundwater finally subsides.
Conclusion
Enough simple system, which is inexpensive. Quick to install and easy to configure. But this system has two significant drawbacks. First, the pump works properly until it exhausts its service life, and then it will have to be replaced. Second, a water pumping system will not eliminate the cause of flooding, but will only temporarily relieve the consequences.
Creating waterproofing in the basement
Waterproofing walls and floors helps provide a quality waterproof barrier. It consists of three layers: penetrating waterproofing, bitumen mastic and plaster. Apply layers above the flood level with a margin of height in case groundwater rises.
What does that require:
- Buy materials: Hydrotex or Penetron, bitumen mastic, sand, waterproof cement, and metal mesh for plaster are used as penetrating waterproofing.
- Collect necessary tools: a hard brush and spatula for applying compounds, an iron brush for grouting between brick seams or cracks, a mixer and a container for mixing the mortar.
- Prepare the basement: pump out the water - for this it is convenient to use the “Malysh” pump with a bottom suction. After drying, clean the surface of the floor and walls from dirt. Brush seams, corners, and cracks.
Installation
- Treat the concrete floor and walls with penetrating waterproofing. This composition is deeply absorbed and clogs macrocracks through which water penetrates into the basement.
- Then coat it bitumen mastic corners, seams, cracks. Then apply the mastic in the same way to the remaining surface of the walls and floor. The layer thickness should be at least 2 cm.
- Attach the metal grill to the wall. It is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the plaster layer. Prepare a cement mortar of medium viscosity. Using a spatula, apply a 3 cm thick layer of plaster.
- Place a metal mesh on the floor and fill it with liquid cement mortar and give it time to dry. At this point, the process of creating basement waterproofing can be considered complete.
Conclusion
The waterproofing layer prevents groundwater from seeping through cracks. It also makes concrete stronger, extending the life of walls and floors. The waterproofing method is an excellent alternative to a drainage system, which cannot be built in all basements.
So, the above methods for dealing with basement flooding will help get rid of excess water. Each has its own installation features, advantages and disadvantages. You need to choose a method based on your specific goals and financial capabilities.
Video: how to make drainage in the basement with your own hands
Good afternoon Please tell me how to fill the basement on your own. The house is 6 by 5, the height of the basement is about two meters, the house stands on strip foundation, one brick, the basement is damp. If necessary, I can send you a video of the basement. How much earth or clay do you need?
Alla, Moscow.
Hello, Alla from Moscow!
In each specific case, the operation of filling basements is approached according to the characteristics of the soil and the basement itself.
There are basements, which are rooms completely with concrete sides (floor, walls and ceiling with a hole for a hatch), some are brick, some are without a floor, just with dense earth on it. The water that enters the basement can also be different (ground, rain, from a broken water pipeline nearby, etc.).
In some cases, there is a need for drainage to remove water.
In practice, there was a case when the owner, for a number of reasons, did not fill the basement, but made a depression at its bottom, where incoming water and condensate from the surfaces of the basement were collected. A pump hose was lowered into the recess, which automatically turned on when a certain water level was present.
Without inspecting your basement under the house, I would not give definite recommendations.
However, if we list general principles operations on , then you should most likely do the following.
Filling can be done with many materials, for example - ordinary soil, that is, earth, sand, crushed stone, sand gravel mixture, clay, rubble, construction waste, etc.
The use of crushed limestone should be avoided as it attracts moisture. /Let me explain that crushed limestone looks like white or yellowish stones of various sizes./
But in any case, over time, subsidence of the thickness of the backfilled material(s) cannot be ruled out. What I mean is that in a couple of years you will have to add some more sagging imported material on top. Otherwise there will be a hole at the backfill site.
Judging by your words, the basement is simply damp, and not an underground lake. Therefore, you can go with the simplest option.
First of all, if the basement floor is concrete screed, then it is necessary to break several holes in it different places. In case of water leaving when it possibly enters the former basement.
Then fill the entire volume of the basement with the material that you can get and bring.
I don't think you will make a concrete screed on top of the backfill; it is very effective, but too expensive. Therefore, you can simply put a layer of roofing felt on top of the backfill; this protects the subfloors of the house from evaporation of moisture from the soil and the settling of condensation on its lower surfaces with all the negative in the form of wood rotting.
And after a couple of years, check to see if there is water on the roofing material. If there is, then remove the roofing material, add soil to eliminate holes caused by subsidence of the backfilled materials, and lay the roofing material again.
Naturally, check the ventilation of the space under the floor through the vents.
By quantity required material see for yourself - a simple arithmetic calculation shows that the basement area is about 30 square meters and with a height of 2 meters, all this will amount to about 60 cubic meters of required material. That is, about 6 ten-ton KAMAZ trucks.
The material may be relatively cheap, but you will have to pay for its import. It’s difficult to say how much, how to negotiate with the drivers, but usually a ride starts from 2.5 thousand rubles and can reach 5 thousand or more.
It is most optimal when construction waste is removed from a site under construction nearby and the drivers do not have to drive the dump truck tens of kilometers to a landfill, but dump the contents of the body on your site. However, this is no longer relevant to the question you asked.
And transferring about 60 cubic meters is a cumbersome task; you will have to hire guest workers. Three or four Uzbeks or Tajiks can do this in two or three days; they are natural diggers. Russians, crests and Bulbash in no less than a week, but they rarely undertake this.
So all this will cost a pretty penny.
How else?
In any case - good luck!
Other questions on the topic of basements and underground areas.
If during the construction of the garage such nuances as the features of the relief were not taken into account (for example, if the garage is located in a lowland or on a slope) and the level of groundwater, waterproofing was not carried out properly and the drainage system was installed, then, most likely, repairs will be required over time cellars in the garage. Read.
Repair
If a decision has been made to fill in a cellar in a garage that is regularly subject to flooding, then it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the choice of soil composition so that subsequently the soil does not settle and water is not pushed to the surface. Read the instructions on how to make a cellar in the garage.
The following materials can be used to fill the cellar:
- fine river sand (used for annual flooding of the basement in spring period by 20 – 30 cm);
- clay;
- expanded clay;
- crushed stone;
- construction scrap.
If the cellar is flooded right up to the shelves, then it is better to fill it in layers: construction waste, broken brick, crushed stone and sand.
If there is constant groundwater in the cellar, then the best option will fill in layers of clay and sand.
The universal backfill material will be river sand in combination with expanded clay.
Water in the cellar - what to do?
Constant dampness of the walls in the basement is the main sign of poor quality waterproofing, and, accordingly, a signal to action, that is, urgent repair and restoration work of the garage.
Before you start repair work, first of all, they dry out the cellar and, accordingly, the garage basement.
There are two main, proven over the years, methods for drying a cellar:
- Using a fryer. This method involves equipping a homemade brazier from an old metal bucket in which to build a fire (the bucket is placed in the center of the room). This method is very simple, the only caveat is that you need to maintain the fire long time. This method is very effective, since the smoke generated during the combustion process additionally destroys all mold and mildew present in the basement.
- Use of candles and pipes. This method involves installing a pipe in such a way that one end of it is located in close proximity to the floor, and the other end of the pipe goes outside. A container with a candle is installed under the pipe, which is necessary to create forced ventilation. The structure can only be removed when the humidity drops to an acceptable level.
To arrange external drainage, it is necessary to dig a trench along the perimeter of the garage, forty centimeters deeper than the basement floor; it is recommended to make the trench forty centimeters wide. In increments of two meters, wells are drilled into the trench into which perforated pipes wrapped in geotextile are installed. The prepared drainage system is filled back with soil.
Internal drainage is a network of perforated pipes installed along the internal contour of the garage at a certain depth.
One of the options for waterproofing a cellar (basement) is the injection method. The essence of this method is to saturate the soil with special polymer resins and acrylate gels using expansion packers. But this method is quite expensive, and also requires the involvement of specialists and equipment.
Waterproofing can also be done by spraying liquid rubber, instantly setting and forming a polymer membrane. This method, in combination with ventilation and insulation, will forever rid the cellar of condensation and humidity. Read the guide on how to choose a garage roof.
As a result of the violation natural ventilation in the cellar, as well as in the presence of temperature changes, condensation forms on the walls and ceiling of the cellar. Accordingly, in order to prevent condensation from forming, it is necessary to install natural or forced ventilation, as well as insulate the cellar ceiling.
Accordingly, a set of measures taken to equip the exhaust hood in the cellar will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the cellar and will significantly reduce the level of humidity.
High humidity in the garage basement provides ideal conditions for the formation and proliferation of mold and mildew.
Mold fungi can live on any surface from absolutely different materials, be it concrete, wood, stone or paint, and accordingly have a destructive effect on the finish, as well as structural elements garage (for example, rotted floor beams can cause the garage floor to collapse).
One of the popular ways to combat fungus is to treat contaminated surfaces with a solution of 40% formaldehyde.
To combat mold in the garage cellar, you can use by special means, which have antiseptic properties, improve ventilation, and also update the waterproofing of the cellar.
Hood
One of the main conditions for creating an optimal microclimate in the cellar is the arrangement of a supply and exhaust ventilation system, which can be either natural or forced. The ventilation system can be equipped either with two pipes (exhaust and supply), which are installed in two opposite corners of the cellar. This system is ideal for small cellars. Exhaust pipe installed at a height of 18 mm from the floor, the other end of the pipe should extend outward approximately 400 mm. The supply pipe is located at a distance of 300 mm from the floor, and the second end of the pipe is approximately 300 mm outward. Pipes can be made of asbestos concrete or PVC. Forced ventilation is carried out due to the equipment of an electric fan, other differences from natural ventilation forced ventilation does not have.
How to insulate?
Correctly selected thermal insulation material and proper insulation of the garage floor with a cellar should prevent the appearance of condensation in that same cellar. The optimal option, most suitable for insulation according to its technical specifications, there will be extruded polystyrene foam. Sheets of expanded polystyrene are laid in the space between the slats of the pre-installed sheathing. Sheets of plywood can be secured on top of the insulation.
Video
The appearance of mold or condensation on the walls and ceiling of the cellar is the first sign high humidity. This means that the sooner measures are taken to identify the cause of dampness in the cellar and measures to eliminate it, the more financial resources will be saved, which may be needed, if no measures are taken, to restore the garage foundation and cellar.
Construction Materials
Peter Kravets
Reading time: 3 minutes
A A
In the basements of houses, flooring is often used regardless of the foundation. The cold usually comes to the floors of the first floor either from the ground or from the space above it, usually the basement.
Floors are called floating. When installing them, the supporting frame of the floor and partitions is placed on a special colonnade or a longitudinal lining.
But in the cold season, the basement and subfloor must be insulated, especially when wooden version Houses. When there is strong wind outside, it penetrates the house and passes between the boards, creating drafts.
How to fill a basement under a house without making the situation worse? When insulating the subfloor, there is some contradiction in the very essence of the work: on the one hand, insulation is necessary, on the other, ventilation.
If air circulation is not provided, the wood may succumb to putrefactive processes and begin to become moldy. The first step is to install windows for ventilation of the house and insulate the basement, if there is one.
Basement ventilation system in a wooden house
In rooms where constant ventilation is provided, moisture does not linger, settling on the surfaces of that part of the building where it is limited or carried out in insufficient quantities. Wood is very moisture-absorbing, which leads to its rapid destruction.
Important! Floors in wooden house need ventilation. If this is not done, then the entire underground will very quickly become damp and rot, and boards may fail during operation.
The main thing that needs to be done immediately when laying the foundation is to leave space for future ventilation grilles; in a wooden house they are also made of wood.
If the foundation is made of cinder blocks, then the grate is placed in place of one of the blocks. If the foundation is made using the pouring method, then when pouring concrete into the formwork it is necessary to make room for the partition of the ventilation window.
According to the number of grates required, it is necessary to equip at least 2 for the entire basement, and they should be located opposite each other to facilitate the passage of air flows.
Humidity provokes the development of microorganisms and fungal spores, which are most dangerous to human health. Air with spores, passing through the respiratory system, settles on the mucous membranes of the nasopharynx and can cause many diseases from mild to nervous exhaustion.
To improve underground ventilation country house, necessary:
- Take care of your windows; in the summer, you should check them as often as possible for growing weeds and debris that could block air access;
- From inside the basement, it is necessary to arrange the equipment located and the interior of the basement so that they do not stand in the way of air masses from the window;
- In the cold season, when there is frost, it is necessary to block the access to fresh air to avoid cold inside the house.
The traction can be increased by installing new holes in the foundation, drilled with diamond attachments of the drilling apparatus. You can use the help of specialized companies engaged in such drilling.
You can also strengthen the hood by installing fans on the subfloor grates, possibly with automatic adjustment inclusions. Switching modes can be done at certain time intervals by setting up programmable sensors.
For a very damp room, it is enough to ventilate for half an hour for 5 hours.
Backfilling the underground room
Before filling and insulating the subfloor in a wooden house, you need to select the material that will be used to fill the free space. Need to pay attention Special attention basement ventilation, because thermal insulation impairs air exchange.
Expanded clay
Most often, the subfloor is covered with expanded clay and baked clay. This is a very light material that is very convenient to work with.
Backfilling of the subfloor is done subject to the following mandatory rules:
- In order for ventilation to be ensured at least at a minimum level, 20-50 mm must be left between the backfilled layer and the floor;
- The thickness of the backfilled layer should not block the ventilation holes;
- Expanded clay is dried before falling asleep, since the concentration of moisture can cause rotting of the floor boards.
Wood chip mixture
The subfloor can be filled with a mixture of wood shavings and foam. When it hardens, it fills the entire space and practically guarantees thorough protection from the negative effects of cold air and moisture.
But in case wooden house This mixture cannot be used. The thing is that the installation method involves high pressure, which can undermine the foundation of the floor.
Mineral wool
Insulation in some cases is done when using mineral wool. Unlike its analogues, glass wool, for example, the composition of the mineral material includes a much smaller number of small particles that are so dangerous to human health.
The installation method inside the subfloor eliminates possible contact of particles with humans, which is certainly environmentally friendly.
The method of fastening is very simple - waterproofing is attached to the subfloor as the first layer, usually using construction stapler. As soon as protective material secured, installation of mineral wool begins.
It is secured with special bolts with a large head diameter to prevent damage or rupture of the material.
With the help of such multilayering it is achieved reliable protection from drafts, in addition, this material is classified as environmentally friendly and heat-retaining.
Expanded polystyrene
Floor protection using polystyrene foam is very effective, without compromising subfloor ventilation. It can also be used in wooden buildings.
As a material in itself, polystyrene foam is considered waterproof, so when installing it, a layer of waterproofing is not required.
The only weak point of such an arrangement is considered to be only the joints of the material. It is necessary to further strengthen the protection of load-bearing beams.
Expanded polystyrene is very easy to use, the material is quite light, but dense, unlike its analogues - cotton wool in various designs. The cost of polystyrene foam is relatively low and the existing variety of similar protective materials is available.
Necessary underground maintenance
Autumn
With the onset of cold weather, wooden ventilation grilles will not be able to keep insects and small rodents out in their search for warm places to winter. In order to prevent unauthorized access of livestock to the premises, a metal mesh is attached to the grilles.
You can cut it yourself with scissors, adjusting the size, and fix it with self-tapping screws to a wooden frame. You can use dowels instead of self-tapping screws, and then attach them to a concrete base.
Spring
Spring floods cause many problems to the ventilation system. Melt water spreads wherever possible, and in most cases accumulates near the walls of the building, penetrating into the basement.
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Can you see everyone?
- Open circuit
So, in the basement there are:
- Cold water supply;
- Hot water supply;
- Heating;
- Sewerage.
HVS
| Image | Description |
 |
|
 Cold water bottling |
|
 |
|
 |
Stopping the water meter
Solutions: - Welding or replacing the wedge;
- Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;
Leaks in the water meter
Causes:
Solutions: Cold water filling leak
Blockage or overgrowth of the riser
Solutions: 
Inflator pump leaking
DHW
Low water temperature
High water temperature
Retaining washers Solutions: 
Heating
Causes: - Clogged elevator nozzle;
Solutions: - Repair shut-off valves;
Causes: Solutions: 
Solutions: 
Sewerage
Blocked riser
Clogged bed
Clogged outlet to the well
Leaks
Causes:
- Destruction of the bell;
Conclusion
We hope that our material will help the reader to successfully solve most of the typical problems associated with the operation of utility networks in the basement of a residential building. As always, more information can be found in the video attached to this article. Good luck! => Network engineering in the basement: device and typical malfunctions => => publish => open => closed => => inzhenernye-seti-v-podvale-450 => => => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017 -10-25 17:19:10 => => 0 =>?p=6607 => 0 => post => => 0 => raw =>)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 6607 => 2 => 2017-10-25 21:19:10 => 2017-10-25 17:19:10 => Technical basement in an apartment building Today the reader and I will get to know the engineering facilities located in the basement networks of typical apartment building, and find out how they work. We will also consider what problems they can create for residents, and how to solve these very problems. The article is aimed primarily at novice plumbers: most of the problems described should be solved not by the residents of the house, but by representatives of the organizations serving it. So, let's go.Can you see everyone?
Let's start with a list of the networks and associated equipment located in the basement. But first, a small lyrical digression. For apartment buildings Soviet buildings typically have a centralized supply of heat and hot water. It can be implemented in two fundamentally different ways:- Closed heat supply scheme does not provide for water withdrawal from heating circuit. Water for domestic hot water needs is heated in heat exchangers, where the heating system coolant gives it energy;
Heating station with DHW heat exchangers - Open circuit means that hot water is taken directly from the heating network through hot water taps in the elevator units.
Elevator unit. Black pipes - hot water supply connections The vast majority of Soviet-built buildings (and, accordingly, at least 80% of the currently in use housing stock) use open circuit heat supply. This is exactly what the author of the article is going to describe. So, in the basement there are:
- Cold water supply;
- Hot water supply;
- Heating;
- Sewerage.
HVS
Here is a list of elements of the cold water supply system located in the basement:| Image | Description |
|
Water meter with bypass line |
A water metering unit responsible for turning off the cold water supply to the house and recording the water consumption of all residents. The water meter includes a water meter, shut-off valve elements before and after the meter, a sump or filter in front of the meter and a pressure gauge or control valve for connecting it. In addition, a bypass line can be installed in the water metering unit, which is used to supply water during repairs or verification of the meter. If the house has several cold water inlets from different sources, the water meter is additionally equipped with a check valve. |
|
Cold water bottling |
Bottling. It distributes water through water supply risers. Cold water filling is usually a dead end (the water in it moves only when it is dismantled by consumers) and has a diameter of 25-100 mm, depending on the number of connected water collection points. The lower filling points are equipped with relief valves for complete drying during repair work. |
|
Water supply risers |
Risers distribute water to apartments. The diameter of the cold water risers is 20-40 mm. At each outlet from the bottling to the riser, a tap or valve is installed to turn off the water supply and a plug or vent to drain the riser. |
|
Water supply pump |
Paging ( pumping station water supply) raises the water pressure to the required level to ensure its supply to the upper floors. Pumping can work around the clock, or be turned on (manually or by timer) during peak water withdrawal - in the morning and evening. A typical pumping device is an electric motor with centrifugal pump, mounted on a monolithic foundation. |
Stopping the water meter
Reasons: jamming of the impeller, wear of the mechanics. Solution: the meter is handed over for repair or replacement to representatives of the water supplying organization after drawing up a report on the malfunction of the device. During the absence of a water meter, water is supplied to the building through a bypass line or through a pipe installed in place of the device with the same diameter of the attached thread.Malfunctions of the water meter fittings
Symptoms: the water supply to the house does not turn off or does not open. Causes:- Wear of the wedge between the cheeks of the valve (the cheeks fall below the counter mirrors in the body);
Wedge valve device - Overgrowth of cheeks or mirrors lime deposits;
- Falling cheeks due to wear of the wedge or rod.
- Welding or replacing the wedge;
- Grinding of cheeks and mirrors;
Valves disassembled for repair - If repair is impossible, replace the shut-off valves.
A caveat: if the valve after the water meter is faulty, it is enough to close the inlet valve to repair it. To repair the fittings at the entrance to the building, or bypass line, it is necessary to agree with the water supplier to disconnect a section of the main water supply.
Leaks in the water meter
Causes:- Malfunction of the control valve (wear or destruction of the gasket, destruction of the valve);
- Development of the seal on the valves;
Oil seal leak on water meter valve - Destruction of the gasket connecting the water meter to the water meter pipes.
- Replacing the gasket on the control valve;
Helpful: In the absence of a factory-made gasket, a replacement is cut from sheet rubber or an inner tube from a truck.
- Replacing the control valve or its head;
- Oil seal packing. To do this, it is enough to completely close the problem valve, unscrew a couple of nuts on the bolts or studs holding the gland and lift the gland;
- The gasket under the meter is replaced with a similar one.
Cold water filling leak
Reason: steel pipe corrosion. Leaks occur primarily along the longitudinal electric weld and at the riser connections.Fistula on a longitudinal seam Solution: depending on the degree of wear of the pipes - welding of individual fistulas, replacement of the bottling area or replacement of the entire bottling. Overgrowing of the bottling with deposits
Symptoms: drop in water pressure throughout the entire house or in parts of the risers. As a rule, the upper floors are left without water during the morning and evening peaks.Hint: measuring water pressure at peak water consumption will help localize the problem. Measurements are taken at the water meter and at the water supply risers; in the latter case, the pressure gauge is screwed in instead of the plug (if necessary, through an adapter with a change in thread diameter).
Measuring pressure in the water metering unit Solutions: - Chemical flushing of the entire water supply system or cold water bottling system (with blocked risers);
The result of chemical flushing of the pipeline - Cleaning the spill with sewer wire through a window cut out in the pipe;
- Replacement of the entire bottling or a section of it.
Blockage or overgrowth of the riser
Symptoms: a drop in water pressure or its complete absence on a separate water supply riser. Causes:- The riser is clogged with scale from the weld or foreign objects (destroyed valve gasket, wooden chip, etc.);
Hint: blockages most often occur at pipe bends and under the screw valve seat.
Valve device. Debris accumulates under the seat on which the valve rests - Incorrect installation of the screw valve (water does not flow to the valve seat from below, but presses on the valve from above). Sooner or later, such an installation leads to the valve coming off, after which it completely or partially shuts off the water and can only be removed when the valve is opened;
- Overgrowing of the riser area with lime or rust. The lumen of the pipe narrows, first of all, at its bends.
- Blockages and deposits are cleared with a plumbing cable through an opened screw valve or after dismantling the valve and installing a drain after it;
- At large quantities dense deposits, the pipeline section must be replaced;
- If the valve comes off, the valve needs to be replaced (of course, with its correct installation: the arrow on the body should be directed along the water flow).
The arrow indicates the correct direction of water flow Malfunctions of plug valves
Plug valves are relatively rarely installed on cold water risers, however, in terms of the number of problems they create, they are ahead of even rather capricious screw valves.- For valves with gland packing, a leak in the stem usually means that the seal has worn out. Sometimes a tightened oil seal nut solves the problem; much more often the seal has to be refilled. Since plug taps rarely turn off the water completely tightly, to fill the seal, you have to turn off the water in the entire house;
- In tension taps, leaks can be eliminated by tightening the valve with a nut on the shank;
Cast Iron Tension Plug Valve - A freely rotating rod of a cast iron faucet means destruction of the rod shank in the body. The problem is resolved by replacing the tap.
A typical malfunction of taps with a thin stem is the destruction of its shank Inflator pump leaking
Symptoms: Water flows down the pump shaft rod. Cause: worn out shaft seal.Leakage on the booster pump oil seal Solution: packing the oil seal. It is performed after de-energizing the pump and turning off the water supply to it. DHW
Some of the typical problems of hot water supply (malfunction of shut-off valves, bottling leaks, etc.) duplicate the problems of cold water supply that we have already described. At the same time, hot water supply taps and risers last longer due to the absence of condensate on them (and, accordingly, a much lower rate of steel corrosion) and a relatively small amount of deposits inside the pipes caused by differences in the composition of the water. A drop in pressure on the hot water supply can be caused by faulty shut-off valves, but not by overgrowing of pipelines.On DHW steel pipes suffer less from corrosion and are not subject to the accumulation of deposits So, let's start with the list of elements of the hot water supply system. - Hot water taps into the elevator unit. There can be two of them (for dead-end hot water supply) or 4 (for circulating hot water supply);
Hint: buildings built after the mid-70s were and are equipped primarily with circulating hot water. Continuous circulation through looped risers and bottlings ensures instant delivery hot water to any point of its analysis and round-the-clock operation of heated towel rails.
- Filling (for a circulation system - two fillings) of hot water supply;
Two hot pours are a sign of a hot water circulation system - Risers. IN circulation system they are connected by lintels on the top floor or in the attic in groups of 2 to 7 risers. Typically, jumpers connect the hot water risers of a separate apartment (in this case there are two of them - in the kitchen and in the bathroom) or the entire entrance.
Low water temperature
Reasons: turning on the domestic hot water supply from the return pipeline in the summer or in the off-season.Reference: SP 30.13330.2012 limits the hot water temperature to the range of 60-75°C. Wherein temperature graph heating network 150/70°C implies a return temperature of 40 degrees.
Temperature graph of the heating main Solution: turning on the hot water supply from the supply. At first heating season The shut-off valves at the taps into the return pipeline are reliably closed. In summer, the circulating DHW operates according to the “from supply to return” scheme. High water temperature
Reasons: switching on DHW from the supply when the supply temperature exceeds 75°C. Solution: switching the water supply to the return pipeline.Lack of circulation in the DHW system
Symptoms: cold heated towel rails and long heating of water when opening taps throughout the house. Causes:- When connecting hot water supply “from supply to supply” or “from return to return” - the absence of a retaining washer between the taps or its erosion by the flow of water;
Help: the retaining washer creates a pressure difference between the taps. The standard diameter of the hole in it is 1 mm larger diameter elevator nozzles.
Support washers - When turning on the hot water supply “from supply to return”, there is no pressure difference between the lines of the heating main. It is typical for the first days after the end of the heating season: the organization supplying heat forcibly turns off the heating, reducing its own costs for heating water;
- Finally, the cause of the problem may be a malfunction of the shut-off valves on one of the inserts (for example, falling of the valve cheeks).
- Installing or replacing the retaining washer. It should stand on the flange between the hot water taps in one thread;
- If a shut-off valve malfunctions, it requires repair or replacement. Repair methods are described above in the "HVS" section;
Inspection of the DHW valve - If there is no pressure difference between the supply and return pipelines, the problem has no solution.
There is no circulation in the group of risers
Symptoms: cold heated towel rails and long heating of water on a separate group of risers. Reason: airing of the jumper between the risers on the top floor. Solution:- Close off one of the interconnected risers in the basement;
- Go up this riser to any apartment;
- Open the hot water tap on any mixer all the way. The air will escape through the faucet at the front of the water flow;
- Start the riser in normal mode.
Discharge tank on the hot water riser In addition: the air can be released through the Mayevsky tap installed on the jumper in the apartment on the top floor. Heating
First, a few words about the design of the heating system of an apartment building. The heart of the elevator unit that provides the house with heat is the water-jet elevator. A stream of hot water from the supply is injected into its mixing chamber through a nozzle. It draws part of the coolant from the return pipeline into a repeated circulation cycle. Thus, it is possible to circulate a large volume of water through the heating system when it is minimum consumption from the supply pipeline.Elevator device Hint: the larger the volume of circulating water, the smaller the temperature difference between the beginning and end of the heating circuit, the more evenly the radiators in the apartments are heated.Two heating dispensers - supply and return - are connected to each other by risers. In the case of bottom filling (when the supply and return are separated in the basement), the risers are connected in pairs by jumpers on the upper floor.
Bottom filling: both heating lines are separated in the basement. Upper filling (supply is distributed in the attic, return in the basement) means that the risers are not connected to each other. Top Fill: Heating Supply in the Attic Now let's move on to typical heating system problems. No circulation in the heating system
Causes:- Malfunction of shut-off valves in the elevator unit;
- Clogged elevator nozzle;
- Airing the top filling system;
Hint: upon startup, all the air from the previously vented circuit is forced out into the supply outlet and the expansion tank installed at its top point. If the supply outlet is filled with air, circulation in the heating system is not possible.
Expansion tank with vent in the attic of a house with top filling - No pressure drop in the heating main.
- Repair of shut-off valves;
- Dismantling the elevator and cleaning the nozzle;
- Bleeding air through the vent on expansion tank serving bottling;
- In the latter case, the heat supplier is notified of the problem.
Nuance: when negative temperatures stopping circulation for more than an hour leads to defrosting of the access heating.
Defrosted radiator of the entrance heating If the work to restore circulation is delayed, the heating risers of the entrances in the system with bottom filling must be turned off and reset with the obligatory opening of the vents. Air leakage will prevent water from hanging in risers and batteries. Air vent on driveway heating In a house with top filling, it is easier to reset the entire heating system: starting it will take much less time than starting individual risers. No circulation in the riser or group of risers
Causes:- Airing the jumper between risers in a house with bottom filling;
- Airing part of the upper filling (thanks to the sloping gasket, the supply filling is partially filled with air);
- Malfunction of shut-off valves.
- In the lower filling risers connected in pairs, to restore circulation, you need to bleed air through the Mayevsky tap on the top floor. In the event that one of the connected risers is idle (circulation, without heating devices connected to it), it can be bypassed through a vent installed instead of a plug;
The vent allows you to bypass the riser from the basement - In a system with top filling, it is enough to bleed the air through the vent on the expansion tank;
- We have previously described methods for repairing valves and taps.
Low heating return temperature
Symptoms: the temperature of the coolant in the return pipeline is lower than that prescribed by the temperature schedule.The malfunction causes a flood of complaints about the cold in apartments. Reasons: - Not fully open shut-off valves (including inlet valves of the elevator unit);
- Malfunction of shut-off valves (in particular, falling of the valve cheeks);
- Reduced elevator nozzle diameter. In new buildings it is selected based on calculations heating system, which often do not take into account secondary factors (replacement of heating devices by residents with more efficient ones, broken glazing in entrances, etc.).
- Valves and taps in the elevator open completely;
The shut-off valve must be fully open - Faulty fittings are repaired or replaced;
- The nozzle is drilled to the required diameter after agreement with the supplier. thermal energy organization. If the diameter is selected experimentally, it should be increased by 0.5 mm at a time. A control measurement of the return temperature is carried out one day after installing the nozzle, after stabilization of the temperature regime is completed.
Elevator with dismantled nozzle High heating return temperature
Symptoms: the return temperature is higher than that prescribed by the temperature schedule.Hint: for thermal engineers this means excessive heat consumption and extra costs with constant profits.Reason: oversized elevator nozzle diameter or nozzle erosion. Solution: welding the nozzle and then drilling it to a new design diameter. At the peak of cold weather, dismantling the nozzle is dangerous for obvious reasons: it requires a long stop in circulation. In this case, two solutions are possible:
- Temporary launch of the elevator unit without a nozzle and with the elevator suction plugged by a steel pancake;
The photo shows an elevator temporarily running without a nozzle - Reducing the pressure difference between supply and return using shut-off valves. The inlet or intermediate valve or return valve is closed with control of the return pressure and periodic temperature measurements. At one time, the difference should be reduced by no more than 0.5 kgf/cm2.
Sewerage
The following elements of the sewage system are located in the basement:- Risers with revisions for cleaning;
Sewer riser - Lezhnevki are horizontal branches that collect the drains of several risers and transport them to the outlets of the wells. Straight sections of the bedstead are equipped with oblique tees or revisions every 12-15 meters;
- Outlets to wells with tees for cleaning.
Blocked riser
Symptoms: the drains from the upper apartments enter the apartment on the lower floor through the toilet, bathtub and sinks (if the connection between the sinks and the sewer is leaky, through the sockets of the latter).Blocked riser: all the drains from the neighbors above enter the apartment. Reasons: - Fat deposits at the connection of the riser with the bed, or in the bed itself;
- Silting of the bedstead or accumulation of sand in it, fillers for cat litter etc.;
- Foreign objects entering the sewer system (rags, bottles thrown into the ventilation outlet on the roof, large food waste, construction waste).
Clearing clogged drains
Clogged bed
Symptoms: sewage floods several apartments on the lower floors. As an option, the wastewater enters the basement through the open socket of the tee on the bench.The basement is flooded with domestic waste. The causes and solution to the problem in this case are identical to those described above. A caveat: if possible, the blockage should be cleared through the inspection located above it along the drain. Otherwise, at the time of cleaning, you may be doused with sewage: they will begin to flow to the opened inspection with a pressure of 2-3 meters. Clogged outlet to the well
Symptoms: wastewater do not enter the yard sewer well, flooding apartments or basements. Solution: cleaning the outlet through the tee in the basement.Tee before release You can clean the outlet from the well side only by feeding wire to the blockage from the surface, through an L-shaped pipe with a diameter of 32-40 mm. There are two reasons for this:
- When the blockage is cleared, the wastewater will flow into the well with a pressure of several meters. It is very difficult to dodge the fetid stream in a confined space;
- Methane often accumulates in yard sewer wells. It is not toxic in itself, but it displaces breathable air. Loss of consciousness due to oxygen deficiency at a well depth of 2 meters or more means certain death.
Leaks
Causes:- Chasing the bell cast iron sewer;
Leaking caulked socket - Destruction of the bell;
- Destruction of a section of a riser or bed.
- Not having mechanical damage the bell joint is sealed (embossed) with a heel or graphite gland;
- The destroyed bell is cut out with a grinder and replaced with an assembly of a coupling and a compensating pipe;
- Any straight section of the sewer system can be repaired using the same method.
Sewerage repair using a compensating pipe 
