Insulation of external walls, theory and practice, technology and materials. Insulation for the walls of a house outside, what is better for external thermal insulation? The effectiveness of insulating walls outside

The reason for external insulation is that the thermal insulation for walls made indoors does not allow the internal air to warm up the building. As a result, during the cold season, condensation forms on the cooled wall, on the inside. Thermal insulation prevents it from evaporating, which not only entails the formation of mold and mildew between the insulation and the wall.

A completely opposite result is obtained when insulating walls from the outside. In this case, the walls warm up normally even in severe frosts - the thermal insulation does not allow them to cool down and at the same time they remain completely dry - because the insulation does not allow cold air to penetrate inside. It is for this reason that facades are insulated, and not walls from the inside.

But in this case the question arises, what to do with the finishing? Modern thermal insulation materials are perfect for plastering or pasting them decorative tiles. It only requires certain preparation, which has already been discussed in one of our articles. Well, what kind of thermal insulator should be used for insulation is up to you to decide home handyman. We, in turn, will try to make this choice easier and talk about the various materials used for these purposes.

There are two ways to insulate a building - use internal insulation of the premises or make insulation for the walls of the house outside. Which insulation is better to use? The answer is hidden in a short expression - “dew point”.

Thermal insulation of the room from the outside will ensure the correct location of the dew point

Dew point is the temperature value at which condensation occurs. The point with this temperature can be located in the thickness of the wall, inside it or outside. Its coordinates depend on physical properties wall materials, the thickness of their layers, as well as external and internal temperature and humidity.

Important! The dew point position will be more optimal even in a completely uninsulated wall than in one that is only insulated from the inside.

The correct location of the dew point (outside the wall) can only be obtained by installing the insulation of the walls of the house outside, selected taking into account the properties of the material and thermal calculations for thickness.

Each type of modern insulation for exterior walls of a house has its own characteristics and price range. But their main differences are:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• minimum values ​​of water absorption and vapor permeability;
• the ability to regulate the indoor microclimate;
• high sound absorption rates;
• environmental cleanliness;
• fire resistance and fire safety;
• resistance to chemical attack;

Comparative table of thermal conductivity of building materials

• resistance to biological and mechanical influences (molds, insects, rodents);
• strength and durability;
• elasticity and lack of shrinkage;
• low weight;
• possibility of installation without seams, joints, voids;
• ability to fill complex and hard-to-reach areas;
• ease of installation.

It is also important to take into account how the consumer prefers to install insulation for the walls of the house outside. Videos showing the possibility self-execution Nowadays you can find enough works (as well as other manuals).

The optimal insulation for walls is selected taking into account the material of construction

Water absorption and vapor permeability are taken into account to ensure maximum protection of the room from moisture and are selected taking into account the climate and depending on the installation method. Thermal conductivity is used to calculate the required thickness of thermal insulation material.

The most commonly used types of insulation are:

• expanded polystyrene (foam);
• extruded polystyrene foam (eps, penoplex);
• polyurethane foam;
• mineral wool;
• basalt insulation;
• liquid thermal insulation.

Polystyrene foam is a popular material for insulating exterior walls of a house.

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is one of the modern polymer insulation materials for house walls and is used in this capacity in almost all areas of the construction industry: civil and industrial.

First of all, this material is characterized by low thermal conductivity (from 0.037 to 0.052 W/m*K, depending on density) and water absorption, resistance to biological and chemical influences, and high sound insulation and windproof properties. It belongs to the group of environmentally friendly substances and is quite durable: its service life exceeds 50 years.

Fact! A layer of foam plastic 50 mm thick is equivalent to a wall of one and a half bricks in terms of heat retention.

Expanded polystyrene - easy to install and light weight

Among its other advantages are flexibility and light weight. This helps reduce the cost of delivery and installation, ease of work, and reduces the load on the walls, which, in turn, eliminates the need for additional strengthening of the foundation.

The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its flammability, however, the low price makes it possible to insulate all the outside walls of the house with foam plastic.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is one of thermal insulation materials last generation. In its production, graphite is used in the form of nanoparticles, which increases the strength and energy saving of the product.

Insulation of walls with penoplex followed by cladding with siding

The thermal conductivity coefficient of penoplex insulation ranges from 0.029 – 0.031 W/m*K. It is resistant to mold, chemicals, insects and rodents, and is an excellent sound insulator.

Thanks to this, it is possible to use penoplex as insulation outside: for walls wooden houses and other buildings, and inside: thermal insulation of ceilings (especially when installing “warm” floors), basements, balconies and loggias.

Polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a type of plastic with a cellular foam structure. The mass of cells filled with air is 90% of the total weight of the product. Due to this, the thermal conductivity coefficient of polyurethane foam is one of the lowest - from 0.023 to 0.041 W/m*K.

Liquid polyurethane foam creates an airtight coating with excellent vapor and waterproofing

Polyurethane foam is different high level adhesion to all types of surfaces: concrete, brick, wood, metal - due to which an airtight coating is created with a guarantee of excellent vapor and waterproofing.

A seamless method of application (using a compressor and a hose) and high elasticity makes polyurethane foam an indispensable material for blown-in thermal insulation when insulating walls outside buildings of complex shapes and frame houses. Insulation for external walls using the blow-in method can be applied at temperatures up to 100ºС, the service life is up to 30 years.

Liquid polyurethane foam can be used as blow-in insulation between the building wall and the cladding

The only disadvantage of the material is its high cost and the need to use expensive equipment for installation.

Mineral wool is a product of processing slag (waste from the metallurgical industry) or rocks: basalt and dolomite. It is distinguished by strength, non-flammability, durability, environmental friendliness, elasticity, high degree of sound absorption, ease of installation and low cost. The thermal conductivity of this material is in the range of 0.034 – 0.037 W/m*K.

Mineral wool is fire resistant, environmentally friendly, has a high degree of sound absorption and is low cost.

For insulation work, mineral wool is used in the form of basalt slabs or in rolls with a wide range of sizes. Mineral wool is used as insulation for the outside walls of a house. The dimensions of the produced slabs can be as follows:

• 1000 x 600 x 50 mm;
• 7000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 9000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 50 mm;
• 10000 x 1200 x 100 mm.

Expanded polystyrene boards may have joint grooves for ease of installation

Basalt insulation is used in buildings for any purpose, especially for insulation in country houses, wooden houses and timber buildings. bricks or foam blocks. It is possible to work with this material at temperatures ranging from -60ºС to 220ºС, which is definitely convenient when installing on walls outside.

Which insulation is best for a roof? different designs. Types of insulation for roofs and ceilings. Mineral and synthetic insulation for roofs. Insulation of the attic roof.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool or basalt slabs when installing insulation for the walls of a house outside under the siding.

It is most preferable to use mineral wool for insulating the house from the outside followed by siding

The use of mineral wool (along with polyurethane foam) to create blow-in insulation is also popular. With this method, using a compressor unit, the material is blown between the wall of the house and finishing facade. which also serves as formwork.

Liquid thermal insulation materials can be called new generation insulation materials. They can be used for thermal insulation of metal parts (pipes or frames) and as insulation for houses made of foam blocks. On the outside, on the walls, these ceramic multi-component substances look like acrylic paint.

However, they differ from paint in the content of vacuumized voids (up to 80%), due to which they acquire the properties of a heat insulator.

Liquid insulation is similar to acrylic paint

Interesting! Liquid insulation has a record low thermal conductivity coefficient (from 0.0011 to 0.0015 W/m*K). For comparison, the thermal conductivity coefficient of vacuum is 0.

With a liquid consistency, these materials do not require professional skills and complex equipment for application to any surface: concrete, brick, metal, wood. They are applied using painting tools: brushes, rollers, airless spray guns - and fill all voids and crevices.

Choosing insulation for external walls. 3 options for external wall insulation

Insulation of external walls can be carried out using different materials. There is a wide range on the market. But what is the best way to insulate the facade of a house? The answer to the question depends on several factors. And you shouldn’t always believe the manufacturer’s advertising.

Insulating the facade of a house with modern materials will be useless without following the technology. This is also worth taking into account when preparing for work. Before you insulate your house from the outside, you need to understand the nuances of the process.

It is important not only to choose the right heat insulator, but also to follow the insulation technology

Wall insulation can be divided into two large groups:

• inorganic;
• organic.

The second group has more representatives. This includes chemical industry products: expanded polystyrene (foam plastic, penoplex), natural ecowool. When choosing how to insulate the exterior of a house, you first need to pay attention to the physical properties.

Styrofoam

This thermal insulation belongs to the class of foamed polymers. Polystyrene foam is highly efficient, easy to install, and insulates noise quite well. Another advantage - affordable price. But such material has significantly more disadvantages. To choose the best way to insulate the walls of a house from the outside, it is important to consider that polystyrene has the following qualities:

• flammability;
• fragility (service life is rarely more than 10-20 years);
• poor vapor permeability (additional room ventilation will be required);
• instability to simultaneous exposure to cold and moisture (the material crumbles into individual balls);
• low strength.

Polystyrene foam is affordable, provides excellent thermal insulation, but is flammable and short-lived

There is a possibility that during the aging process the material will release toxic styrene. The concentration is small, and when insulated from the outside, the substance practically does not penetrate into the room, but this property casts doubt on the manufacturer’s claims about environmental friendliness.

Read more about facade insulation with foam plastic.

To insulate a house from the outside with your own hands, you can use extruded polystyrene foam or, more simply, penoplex. This material is a close relative of polystyrene foam. It has all its advantages and some disadvantages. But compared to the previous option, it is devoid of such important disadvantages as:

• instability to moisture and cold;
• low strength;
• fragility.

Flammability and low vapor permeability remain. Although some manufacturers increase the fire resistance class by introducing special additives, it is not possible to obtain a completely non-combustible material.

Penoplex is a strong, durable material, but has a low fire resistance class

It is not recommended to insulate the facade of a wooden house with your own hands using penoplex or polystyrene foam. The owners value such buildings for the naturalness of the materials and the ability of the walls to “breathe”. External insulation with polystyrene will completely block air movement. In this case, additional forced ventilation, because natural will not be enough. Polystyrenes can easily turn a building into a greenhouse; this is worth remembering when deciding how to insulate a house from the outside.

Read more about façade insulation with extruded polystyrene foam.

Ecowool

This material deserves the title of environmentally friendly insulation, since it is made entirely from cellulose fibers. External wall insulation with such material is not subject to rotting and is unattractive to rodents. This can be achieved by adding minerals to the composition: boric acid and borax.

Insulation of the walls of a house is carried out when the house is intended for living and the walls do not retain heat sufficiently.

All devices for heating a house (steam, stove, gas heating) consume maximum energy, but the heat is not retained.

By carrying out thermal insulation, you can ensure a comfortable environment in the house by insulating the walls, because a wall is a vulnerable place in a house that experiences high wind loads.

If the walls are not insulated sufficiently, the cold easily penetrates into the house.

Insulating walls from the inside or outside is an individual decision. A less popular method of insulation is from the inside. With this method, the area of ​​the room is significantly reduced.

This disadvantage of the method plays an important role in deciding the method of thermal insulation in favor of external insulation work. In addition, there is a high probability of moisture occurring inside the wall, this is especially true in regions with high humidity.

Insulation of walls from the outside is carried out significantlymore often. This method requires more costs, but the internal living space in the house is preserved, which is important especially in houses whose area is already small.

Methods of wall insulation

Types of thermal insulation, their advantages and disadvantages

Among the many insulation materials, those that best suit their physical characteristics and thermal insulation properties.

What is the best way to perform external insulation? The main types of wall insulation intended for external thermal insulation are:

• (good thermal insulator, resistant to deformation, waterproof, but poor vapor permeability, risk of damage by rodents, toxic when burned);
• (low water resistance, durability, resistance to temperature changes, but is vapor-tight, susceptible to rodents);
• (durable, low thermal conductivity, durability, resistance to temperature changes, no seams during application, however, it can create pressure in the cracks of the building, susceptible to ultraviolet radiation, low fire safety during application);
• (excellent heat insulator, sound insulator, non-flammable, durable, but during installation it emits harmful formaldehydes);
• (waterproofing, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, durability, no seams, not affected by mold, rodents, however, it shrinks during application, which can provoke peeling, recommended for combined insulation);
• glass wool(thermal insulation, sound insulation, not affected by mold, rodents, fire safety, moisture resistance, non-toxic, but due to the fragility of the fibers requires additional protection);
• fiberboard(thermal insulation, sound insulation, environmental friendliness, fire resistance, durability, but despite all the positive properties it is short-lived, not recommended for rooms with high humidity: baths, saunas);
• cork material(lightweight, durable, non-flammable, environmentally friendly, heat insulator, sound insulator, but quite expensive). In addition, there are other materials, but they are less popular.

Choice of insulation

Differences in insulation of aerated concrete, wooden, brick houses

The method of insulation depends on what material the walls of the house are made of. If we compare houses made of wood, brick and aerated concrete, we can highlight following points worthy of attention:

• Unlike brick walls and aerated concrete houses, a prerequisite for installation is the installation of sheathing to ensure ventilation. Installation of sheathing block walls performed only under or other suspended cladding;
• the most suitable insulation materials for aerated concrete and brick walls are materials with a high moisture resistance (penoplex, expanded polystyrene), while for wooden houses, the ideal insulation is breathable mineral wool slabs;
• the thermal conductivity of a brick wall is higher than that of an aerated concrete wall, so the wall must either be insulated with a thicker layer of insulation, or the thickness of the brickwork must be increased;
• when externally insulating a wooden house, you should carefully prepare the surface by treating it with antiseptics;
• Most often, attaching the layers of a wooden wall requires the installation of chipboard or OSB sheathing.

In addition, you should keep in mind all the indicators of the materials from which the walls are built, such as moisture resistance, thermal conductivity and heat resistance.

How to calculate the thickness of insulation for walls

Before purchasing insulation, you must correctly calculate thickness of the purchased material.

An indicator of the thickness of a material is the result of thermal resistance. The value for each region is different and is determined in accordance with the readings of SNiP.

For the region of the central part of the Eurasian continent it is approximately equal to three.

The thickness of the insulation layer is equal to the difference between this indicator according to SNiP and the total amount of thermal conductivity of each material that is present in the wall.

To determine the thermal conductivity coefficient for each material, use the formula:

P=R/K ,

where R is the thickness of the material, K is an indicator of its thermal conductivity (the manufacturer indicates on the packaging).

After adding all the coefficients, the value is subtracted from three. It turns out material thickness necessary for insulation.

Wall pie device

A wall pie is a collection of layers of materials that are laid vertically in a certain order.

Each layer of the wall pie has its own laying characteristics. If the sequence of layers is disrupted, there is a risk of destruction of the entire structure.

The construction of a wall pie for external insulation must correspond to the order of laying materials, starting from the inside of the walls:

• interior decoration;
• internal load-bearing layer (plasterboard, sheathing);
• vapor barrier (required in frame houses);
• load-bearing wall;
• insulation;
• waterproofing (depending on insulation);
• sheathing;
• ventilation gap (depending on the heat insulator);
• finishing.

Wooden wall pie

This scheme for laying materials should be followed if the house is timber, frame or log.

If the wall is brick or aerated concrete, then the wall pie is slightly different:

• interior decoration;
• Brick wall;
• insulation;
• ventilation gap (if mineral wool is used);
• load-bearing layer on the outside or sheathing (if it is necessary to install façade materials);
• finishing (plaster, siding, porcelain stoneware).

"Wet" wall cake

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing for external insulation is necessary when attaching siding as an external wall finish. With vertical siding, the sheathing is attached horizontally, and vice versa: with horizontal siding - vertically.

The sheathing can be made from wooden beams or their metal profile.

Lathing made of beams

Before you start lathing, you need to prepare the beams: treat them with an antifungal agent.

• saw off the beam of the required size;
• secure the brackets around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws according to preliminary markings;
• secure the timber as guides along the right and left sides of the wall;
• If there is no thermal insulation, then the beam must be attached to the wall by drilling holes for dowels and securing it with self-tapping screws.

Perform lathing along the entire wall; if necessary, level the surface, use special mounting wedges.

Lathing made of beams

Profile lathing

The metal profile should be secured using hangers and brackets.

Installation of metal sheathing:

• fix the profile on the right side of the wall and on the left so that there is at least 100 mm from the corner to the guide;
• According to the markings, drill holes for dowels and attach brackets along the entire wall;
• if thermal insulation is installed, then the insulation boards are pinned onto the brackets;
• lay a vapor barrier in the same way as insulation;
• install metal profiles along the edges of the wall;
• Use a thread to set the height of the profile and secure the profile along the entire wall;
• between the elements, fasten stiffening ribs from the remains of the profile.

NOTE!

It is better to choose metal profiles for siding with curved edges.

It is best to use a good quality aluminum profile.

Profile lathing

Why do you need a counter-lattice?

Lathing and counter-lattice are concepts that are often confused. The lathing is necessary for attaching covering elements to it.

The counter-lattice is attached perpendicular to the sheathing and performs the function of ventilation and at the same time secures the water barrier.

Counter battens must be installed in the walls on the sheathing or on the rafters.

The walls of houses equipped with counter-lattice are called ventilated.

With a ventilated facade, the properties of the cake materials are preserved and the formation of moisture and mold is prevented.

Installation of waterproofing and vapor barrier

When installing waterproofing outside the wall of a wooden house, it can be done:

• by applying a special solution to the walls;
• using additional materials (waterproofing polyurethane foam).

If the wall is brick, then you can use special solutions or resort to an adhesive form of waterproofing: roofing felt. Glue it vertically, overlapping, removing any air bubbles that have formed and gluing the joints with mastic.

When using decorative facing materials use special plaster waterproofing.

Waterproofing mineral wool

When installing a vapor barrier from the outside, films should be used that protect the wall surface from the outside and allow moisture to pass through from the walls.

Installation of vapor barrier films comes down to the following rules:

• they should be laid between the insulation layer and the wall;
• provide a gap for ventilation between layers;
• Lay the film overlapping, glue the joints, secure the film with staples.

If the vapor barrier is installed on round beam, then there is no need to install a ventilation gap. In the case of square boards, this is a must.

External wall insulation with mineral wool for siding

For effective wall insulation with mineral wool the surface should be prepared for subsequent installation work : clear debris, seal cracks, remove gutters and other decorative elements, apply markings, attach hangers.

• laying mineral wool slabs from bottom to top between the guide posts end-to-end, placing the material on hangers and attaching with dowel nails;
• seal the cracks with pieces of insulation;
• cover the vapor barrier membrane in the same way as insulation;
• attach racks to hangers;
• then proceed to cladding.

Metal sheathing

This method is suitable for metal profiles.

If wooden beams are used, then insulation with mineral wool is somewhat different:

• Attach the beams to the prepared wall with corners at a distance of the width of the mineral wool slab;
• the insulation is laid end-to-end between the studs, secured with a pair of dowels, and the cracks are sealed with polyurethane foam;
• if a second layer of insulation is needed, then counter-battens are attached to the racks and mineral wool slabs are laid between them;
• a diffusion membrane is attached to the frame with staples;
• install a counter-lattice, which serves as the basis for fastening the siding panels and creates an air gap in the wall pie.

Wall cake for siding

Fastening mineral wool to the wall with dowels

External insulation technology using foam plastic

To insulate the walls of a private house from the outside, you can use polystyrene foam. The procedure for foam insulation involves the sequence of work performed:

• preparation of walls (cleaning of debris, sealing cracks, priming);
• applying the necessary markings;
• attach a profile at the bottom of the wall, which will serve as the basis for the even laying of the first row of slabs;
• attach the foam by applying the adhesive solution, starting from the bottom corner. The second row of sheets is fastened in a cross pattern;
• after the glue has completely dried, secure the foam with umbrellas;
• The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam, if large, with pieces of polystyrene foam. After hardening, excess foam is cut off;
• To finish slopes and corners, you should use special corners that are glued to the reinforcing mesh tape.

Laying sheets in a checkerboard pattern

Fastening sheets

CAREFULLY!

It is better not to insulate wooden houses with polystyrene foam., since with breathable wood it is better to use porous insulation that can allow moisture and air vapor to pass through.

In this case, mineral wool is ideal.

Basic insulation mistakes

External wall insulation country house must be carried out in accordance with the requirements and rules for installation of materials. Errors that most often occur during insulation contribute to improper circulation of air flow and the formation of moisture inside the cake, which leads to a weakening of the thermal insulation qualities:

• incorrect calculation of thermal resistance;
• if there is no base strip at the bottom of the wall, the insulation may come into contact with the ground;
• Expanded polystyrene should not be left in the sun for a long time during installation;
• cracks between insulation boards lead to the appearance of cold bridges;
• Expansion dowels should be installed at the corners of the building and around doors and windows to securely fasten the material.

In addition, you should not skimp on materials, since in addition to their correct installation, the low quality of the material should not cause poor-quality insulation.

Thus, when insulating walls, the living space is preserved; careful consideration of details is required to calculate the amount of materials and determine the order of installation work.

Useful video

Mineral wool insulation technology in video instructions:

In contact with

When calculating the heat loss of a house, it was found that losses through walls average about 40% of heat, through the roof - 25%, through windows - 20% and through ventilation - 15%. Using this simple scheme, the need for high-quality wall insulation becomes clear. The technology of external wall insulation provides maximum protection of the building from heat loss through the walls, due to the fact that it absorbs the cold influence environment.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The advantages of external insulation are space saving interior spaces buildings, protecting the wall from cooling, increasing the service life of walls made of frame material. With external insulation of walls, the load on load-bearing walls does not increase, therefore the pressure on the foundation will remain the same.

A separate and very significant advantage of external insulation is the protection of the wall from freezing. The bottom line is that with internal thermal insulation, heat loss from inside the house is limited, but the wall itself still freezes at low air temperatures. A steam condensation zone is formed between the inner wall and the layer of heat-insulating material, which creates conditions for the development of mold and fungi, and additional cooling of the wall occurs due to moisture.

The internal insulation that has accumulated moisture does not dry out completely even in summer; a constant zone of moisture accumulation is created, which negatively affects the service life of the walls. With external insulation, the dew point, that is, the point of steam condensation, moves into the thermal insulation material. A wall insulated from the outside does not cool down and the heat lasts much longer, and its losses are minimized. External insulation easily loses accumulated moisture, thanks to which its thermal insulation properties are easily restored and the service life of the walls increases.

Another important advantage external thermal insulation is the soundproofing qualities of insulation materials. If in the private sector this is not so important, then in a big city this quality plays an important role.

Types of thermal insulation board materials

The main materials for the production of boards used in external thermal insulation are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene - commonly referred to as polystyrene foam. You need to pay attention to the quality of these materials Special attention when choosing thermal insulation boards.

Mineral wool

It got its name because it consists of artificial mineral fibers. Cotton wool is divided into types depending on the origin of the raw materials from which it is made. Stone mineral wool is made from various rocks - diabase, limestone, basalt, clay, dolomite, etc. Slag wool is made from blast furnace, open-hearth and other slags, including non-ferrous metallurgy slags.

Mineral wool insulation has a fibrous structure with a synthetic binder. Mineral wool products are produced in the form of slabs and mats. The thermal insulation layer of the slabs ranges from 50 to 100 mm. The mats are used for installing insulation on large working areas.

The advantages of mineral wool are good thermal insulation properties and non-flammability. It is also very moisture-resistant, resistant to damage - it does not decompose under the influence of dampness or insects. Basalt wool is resistant to rotting, temperature changes and is vapor permeable. In addition, mineral wool is easy to install.

Glass wool

This material is similar in properties to mineral wool, but is made from waste from glass production. It has increased temperature resistance. When working with glass wool, you need to be especially careful, be sure to wear gloves, and avoid getting particles of the material on your mucous membranes and especially your eyes.

Expanded polystyrene

This material consists of small moisture-resistant granules, which, when exposed to high temperatures unite with each other into a cellular structure. The foam granules themselves have a huge number of microcells, which is why polystyrene foam boards By volume, they are 98% air. The material is the cheapest of those currently on the market and is easy to use. Expanded polystyrene boards have a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. Foam plastic is also reliable because it is moisture resistant, so rotting processes do not begin in it.

Expanded polystyrene comes in two types - extruded and expanded. The first cut view has a fine closed cellular structure. It is more often used for thermal insulation of enclosing structures, insulation of walls of damp basements, garages, and other outbuildings. Expanded polystyrene foam has larger ball-like granules. In general, polystyrene foam has become the most popular thermal insulator due to its affordability and ease of installation. When installing this heat insulator, it is imperative to use plaster or cladding, in open form it cannot be used.

External insulation methods

There are two main types of installation of external thermal insulation:

In our latitudes, the first method has gained great popularity, mainly because installing suspended thermal insulation is technologically more complex, more expensive in material terms, and requires specialist advice. Installing bonded thermal insulation is much easier; there is only a seasonal limitation - such work can be performed at an ambient temperature of at least +5C.

Bonded external insulation is the most pragmatic option

The option of bonded thermal insulation is very popular in European countries and is gradually becoming more widespread in our country. This method allows you to reduce heat loss through the walls of a building by 80% of the original level, which significantly saves money on energy resources.

The principle of this system is to install a monolithic multilayer enclosing structure, which becomes a shield in relation to the external environment. In addition to protection against heat loss, these structures eliminate so-called cold bridges in insulating structures, do not increase the load on the foundation, and ensure maintainability.

A bonded thermal insulation system can be used on buildings with any type of structure - block, brick, panel, frame-monolithic. For optimal performance The thermal insulation structure must meet the requirements for the process technology and the quality of the materials themselves.

Bonded insulation installation process

The bonded thermal insulation system is installed in several layers:

1. insulation – heat-insulating material in the form of a plate;
2. reinforcement – ​​mesh, resistant to alkalis and coated with a mineral-based adhesive;
3. protective and decorative layer – plaster and primer.

Each of these layers has its own specific function. The meaning of installing heat-insulating boards is clear, the reinforced layer allows adhesion of the plaster and the heat-insulating board, the primer protects the materials from environmental influences and performs its own aesthetic function.

Before installing insulation, the wall must be properly prepared. Preparation includes cleaning from dirt and dust, old plaster, eliminating irregularities so that the insulation adheres to the surface as tightly as possible. Polymer cement glue is applied to the prepared base, that is, the surface of the insulated wall. The adhesive should be chosen that is frost-resistant and has high adhesive ability to different types of slabs. The adhesion index of the adhesive to the concrete wall must be at least 1.0 MPa.

Fastening polystyrene foam boards

The insulation is attached to the glue and secured with dowels. According to experts in this field, there are no small details in thermal insulation systems. The dowels must be strong enough to withstand the load of the insulation system and the force of the wind. There are 2 types of screw dowels: with a regular spacer zone, 50 mm in length, and with an extended zone, 90 mm in length. Dowels with a regular spacer zone are used to secure insulation to concrete and brick walls. Options with an extended spacer zone are more suitable for walls made of hollow brick and lightweight concrete. Dowels with a head diameter of at least 60 mm are selected.

Insulation boards can be made from various materials, on which the installation process itself will depend. Materials for the production of boards are mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene. The latter material has such an unfavorable property in construction as flammability, but recently non-flammable types of expanded polystyrene have begun to appear. This is worth paying attention to when choosing materials.

After applying the glue to the wall, the slabs begin to be attached. The glue is applied in sufficient quantity to fill all the irregularities. The insulation board must be pressed tightly against the wall, while some of the glue is squeezed out from under it and gets under the adjacent boards, thereby strengthening the joints. Openings between the slabs can be eliminated using polyurethane foam. If the opening is large, a strip of polystyrene foam is glued in there, for example. Then the plates are fixed with dowels at the corners. The dowel heads and all joints between the plates must be covered with mastic.

The next step in the process is to install the reinforcing layer. Essentially it is a mesh made of fiberglass, sometimes metal. An adhesive composition is applied to the slabs, pre-prepared pieces of mesh are embedded in the glue, pressed against the slabs, and then pulled. They try to attach the pieces of mesh overlapping for reliability. After the glue has dried, it is cleaned, leveled and the decorative layer begins to be applied. Most often this is decorative plaster, on top of which the entire structure is painted. The paint chosen is weather-resistant.

Insulation of external walls by spraying polyurethane foam

Insulating walls with polyurethane foam is today one of the modern ways to solve the issue of saving heat. Polyurethane foam has many advantages over other materials for thermal insulation. This material is prepared right before spraying onto the insulated wall.

Advantages of this material:

• high quality of adhesion to the surface in any configuration;
• the absence of seams during the work process - this significantly saves time, improves the quality of insulation, and strengthens the wall itself;
• low thermal conductivity - a layer of polyurethane foam 5 cm thick is similar in its ability to retain heat to a layer of 8 cm of polystyrene foam or 15 cm of mineral wool;
• light weight of the material in its finished applied form - this does not create additional load on the foundation;
• compressive and tensile strength of the material;
• no need for a vapor barrier layer - the material is so airtight in its structure that it takes on the functions of a vapor barrier;
• windproofing properties;
• low moisture absorption - the material practically does not absorb it even in the wettest weather;
• non-toxic;
• good sound insulation characteristics.

PPU and its application

Spraying polyurethane foam is the application of a layer of heat-insulating polymer on a surface with any relief, followed by hardening. IN special device two polymers are mixed - polyisocyanate and polyol, they are foamed with carbon dioxide while simultaneously heating to high temperatures, and the resulting mixture is fed into a spray gun or into a mixer. Through a sprayer, the mixture is sprayed onto the working surfaces under pressure. Pouring is carried out in certain ready-made forms; after hardening, the material is removed and used according to the purposes.

Wall insulation process

Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam from the outside is carried out in several stages: preparation of walls, application of polyurethane foam, application of reinforcing screed, final finishing.

Preparing walls means cleaning them from old coating, plaster, dust, anything that can reduce the adhesion of the material to the wall. Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the cleaned surface, and the thickness of its application can be adjusted, thus leveling the depressions and protrusions.

Then a reinforcing screed is applied to the surface of the heat insulation layer; a fine fiberglass mesh is used for this. The thickness of the reinforcement layer must be at least 60 mm. Then you can lay down finishing materials - siding, lining, panels, paint.

Before spraying itself, you need to think about protecting all surrounding surfaces from unnecessary application of material, because it is very difficult to clean polyurethane foam even with strong solvents.

Warm plaster for external insulation of facades

Warm plaster is a cement-based mixture with the addition of filler. The latter can be vermiculite - a light mineral filler, elements of polystyrene foam, and also sawdust. Warm plaster with sawdust in its composition is not suitable for facades and is used only when interior decoration. Compositions for finishing facades include polystyrene foam, pumice powder, and expanded clay chips as fillers.

When choosing insulation, several of its properties are taken into account: thermal conductivity, which must be low to retain heat, hydrophobicity to prevent moisture from entering, vapor permeability - so that the layer of material allows water vapor to pass through and does not condense. Availability porous materials helps warm plaster maintain its ability to “breathe”, allow moisture and air to pass through.

Warm plaster combines all the necessary qualities. It does not accumulate moisture, is durable, fire-resistant, and environmentally friendly. As an insulation material, it can be used for finishing facades, including those decorated with decorative elements that need to be preserved, for insulating slopes, filling joints and cracks, and masonry.

Application of warm plaster

Warm plaster is quickly applied, does not require the use of reinforcing mesh (although in some methods it is used for greater insulation strength), does not require leveling the wall, since it is quite plastic in texture and leveling can be done directly with the material itself. Warm plaster is adhesive to all building construction materials, biologically stable, and vapor permeable.

The technique for applying such plaster does not differ from conventional plastering technology. For greater smoothness, the wall can be additionally sanded with an emery cloth or putty.

In what cases can warm plaster be used?

If you pay attention to expanded polystyrene, which has a lot of positive properties and is also convenient to use, you need to know that insulation systems using polystyrene are prohibited from being used in some cases, for example, when insulating buildings with increased fire safety requirements - hospitals, schools, kindergartens, car washes etc. Expanded polystyrene has low vapor permeability, due to which moisture will accumulate in the room. For some purposes this may be a plus.

Unlike this material, warm plaster is non-toxic, non-flammable, and has high vapor permeability. It is quite possible to use it on buildings of medical institutions and public buildings for children. It is suitable for complex facades; the contours of uneven surfaces do not appear through it, as through a polystyrene foam layer. Warm plaster can both insulate and give an aesthetic and beautiful appearance to the room.

Warm plaster is multifunctional; it is suitable not only for insulating walls, but also for floor screeding, sealing seams, potholes, and cracks. It can be used to fill the slabs of flat roofs. It can also be used to fill floors, simultaneously preparing them for floor coverings and providing thermal insulation.

Disadvantages of this method

Flaws warm plaster is that she can't be finishing coat, you need to apply primer and paint on top of it. It cannot be a sanitizing material, so the surface must be dry before applying it. Sound insulation after its application is also insignificant.

It must be taken into account that warm plaster has a much higher density compared to the same polystyrene foam or mineral wool, and this figure is 5-10 times higher. Therefore, insulation using this method requires a solid foundation that can withstand such a load. Further, the thermal conductivity coefficient of this type of plaster is 1.5-2 times higher than that of other materials, so the insulation layer should be the same 1.5-2 times thicker. And since it can be applied in a layer of no more than 50 mm, it will have to be insulated both outside and inside for better heat retention.

One way or another, the decision in each specific situation can be made individually. Advantages and disadvantages are very relative things. And warmth in the house is an eternal concept.

Finishing coatings for external wall insulation

There are no trifles when insulating walls - this is what experts working in this field say. Plaster, reinforcing mesh, dowels, paints - all these are the little things that you should pay attention to in the same way as the main materials for insulating the facade.

Reinforcing mesh

Glass mesh is most often used as the basis for the reinforcing layer, the cell size is 5X5 mm and weighs from 1500 to 200 g/m2. The mesh must be treated with a special compound that is resistant to alkalis. In the corners of the building, in places where the thermal insulation layer is adjacent to architectural details - cornices, parapets - here experts advise reinforcing not with glass, but with a metal mesh with greater rigidity. This is done in order to strengthen the entire insulating structure.

You need to take a responsible approach to the quality of the adhesive compositions you choose. Manufacturer recommends glue certain brand, composition that will best ensure fastening of certain materials. Trying to replace with cheaper options can sometimes be too expensive - even redoing the facade.

Plasters

The requirements for plaster are very strict, since it is this material that is exposed to all the influences of the external environment - temperature fluctuations, humidity, and the action of chemical compounds that are in the air. The outer layer must be resistant to all kinds of influences and be vapor permeable, not retain moisture in the thickness of the insulation.

Thin-layer decorative plasters and facade paints are divided into 4 groups:

Polymer-cement plasters have high vapor permeability; these are the so-called “breathing” options. They are non-flammable, adhesive to mineral bases, adhesive coefficient of at least 1.0 MPa, and frost-resistant. They are used for insulation with polystyrene and mineral wool. Economical to use.

Thanks to their synthetic base, acrylic plasters are quite elastic and resistant to deformation. They are used for insulation with expanded polystyrene. They are resistant to high humidity and absorb moisture very weakly even in conditions of constant rainfall. Available in a wide range of colors, after release they are immediately ready for use.

Silicate plasters are also resistant to deformation, have high vapor permeability, and have a large selection of colors. Silicone plasters are resistant to precipitation and hydrophobic. Surfaces treated with them are slightly dirty. This quality can be used when finishing houses in large industrial cities.

In addition to composition, decorative plasters have different textures. The texture depends on the grain size of the plaster. For example, the “bark beetle” texture has a grain size of 2-3.5 mm, making the surfaces resemble tree bark. Mosaic plasters have a grain size of 0.8-2 mm. The filler in these plasters is colored quartz sand or small pebbles. When this plaster hardens, it resembles a glass surface.

Finishing work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 C, and within 24 hours the temperature should not fall below 0 C. It is forbidden to apply plaster in strong winds, in the open sun, or in the rain, since plaster needs certain conditions for it to dry so that it lasts longer.

The requirements for facade paints are similar to those for plaster - wear resistance under the influence of high and low temperatures, moisture, sunlight, and so on. The service life of enamels on the market based on organosilicon resins is about 30 years, polyurea – more than 50 years. By choosing the right facade paint, you can save a lot on periodic repainting.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

Wood is considered the most environmentally friendly material for building houses, although now such construction can mainly be found only in the private sector. For external insulation wooden structures thermal insulation with protective and ventilating properties is used, and for ventilation a gap is provided between the outer skin and the insulation.

Thermal insulation installation process

Thermal insulation of a wooden building consists of the following elements:

Before starting work on thermal insulation of the house, you need to treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic and a fire retardant - a drug that prevents fire. Existing cracks must be closed and caulked with tow or foam. Then the sheathing is installed on the wall.

For the sheathing you need wooden beams, which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. The thickness of the beams is 50 mm, their width should exceed the thickness of the insulating material. For example, with a thickness of insulation material of 80 mm, the thickness of the beams must be at least 100 mm to ensure an air gap. The distance between the beams is made according to the size of the selected insulation, that is, according to the width of the slab. Insulation boards are laid in the openings between the beams, then attached to the load-bearing wall using anchors.

Vapor barrier

Before laying the insulation, a vapor barrier layer is installed. Vapor barrier materials are selected according to the type of structure and installation method. The vapor barrier materials themselves come in the following types:

1. aluminum foil with a layer of polyethylene;
2. polyethylene reinforcement mesh, covered with film;
3. polymer-coated kraft paper;
4. kraft paper with aluminum foil;
5. polymer fabric with double-sided lamination.

The vapor barrier can be installed both vertically and horizontally from the inside of the thermal insulation structure. Installation is done using galvanized nails or a stapler. The seams of the vapor barrier layer must be completely sealed, the film must be intact, otherwise the movement of water vapor will be allowed, and moisture will accumulate inside the structure. The seams between the pieces of vapor barrier are sealed special tapes based on butyl rubber. Also, strips of material can be laid overlapping.

Next in the process, insulation boards, polystyrene foam or mineral wool are installed, in the direction from bottom to top, the insulation is secured with a mushroom dowel. Waterproofing is mounted on the insulation - a special membrane, which is secured using construction stapler. These can be materials such as: a combined polymer, a film based on kraft paper coated with aluminum, impregnated kraft paper, three-layer polypropylene. It is necessary to observe the position of the front and wrong sides material, otherwise instead of insulating it will turn into moisture permeable, which will lead to dampness.

The final stage is fastening the 50X50 mm timber with nails and covering the surface. You can line it with clapboard, plastic siding, facade panels to choose from. A mandatory gap of 2-4 cm is left between the layer of waterproofing and cladding.

External wall insulation, insulation methods and types of materials

External insulation: advantages and methods. Types of materials for thermal insulation boards. Bonded external thermal insulation and spray polyurethane foam.

Insulation of walls outside a house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, do-it-yourself installation

The facade of residential buildings cannot always withstand winter frosts and piercing winds, which is why it feels cold inside the room. Insulating the outside of your home will help protect the building from moisture, keeping hot air indoors. In the article you will learn what insulating walls outside is, how to increase the temperature inside a wooden house, and what is the difference between thermal insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

What is wall insulation

A common method of energy saving is insulation - thermal insulation for walls outside or inside a building, made with special materials. By insulating the façade of your apartment, you will get rid of fungus, increase protection from noise, and improve thermoregulation - the room will be cool in summer and warm in winter. Insulation not only becomes a barrier between cold air and the internal microclimate of the home, but also protects the building from moisture and sun, increasing its service life.

Methods for insulating walls outside

There are internal and external insulation of the walls of the house. The second type of thermal insulation is more effective than the first, since it does not reduce the area of ​​the room, removes condensation from the internal walls, and retains heat longer. There are four methods of facade thermal insulation:

1. facing – a method that combines thermal insulation with decorative finishing;
2. hinged - an expensive method that uses insulated structures made of steel sheets and a layer of cladding (plastic siding, wooden lining, blockhouse);
3. “wet” - a method that involves attaching foam plastic to the facade using glue, applying a mesh, finishing primer and plaster;
4. spraying liquid insulation - polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the facade and applied to it decorative coating or hanging panels.

Insulation of the house

Up to 50% goes through the wall façade home warmth Therefore, insulating houses is a necessary procedure for those who want to maintain a comfortable microclimate in their homes and save on electricity. When choosing insulation for the walls of a house outside, you should focus on the wall material, since for concrete, brick, wooden and block structures they are used different technologies thermal insulation. It is cheaper to thermally insulate a private house than an apartment in a multi-storey building.

Insulation of apartments

If you live in apartment building with a central heating system, insulating the apartment from the outside is the best option, which will help avoid additional costs for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room using electricity. By insulating an apartment, you can solve the problem of sealing seams in panel high-rise buildings. Not all inhabitants multi-storey building agree to insulate their home, so apartments are often spot-insulated, which can lead to the destruction of the main wall at the joints with the insulated surface.

Insulation for walls

You should choose the right materials for insulating the walls outside, taking into account what the building is built from, how many floors it has, and the climatic features of the area. The microclimate of the room depends entirely on the choice of materials and quality of installation. Insulation materials are distinguished according to the following criteria:

• thermal conductivity;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• soundproofing;
• airtightness;
• waterproof;
• environmental safety;
• biostability.

External insulation gives the desired result only if the thermal insulation materials fit tightly to the frame of the room, without air gaps. There are the following types of insulation for external walls:

Foam insulation

Wall insulation with foam plastic is gaining more and more popularity. This material is lightweight, inexpensive, and easy to work with. The obvious advantages of polystyrene foam are moisture resistance, high sound insulation, and excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material are the ability to ignite with the release of toxic substances, fragility, and poor breathability. Before installation, you need to draw horizontal lines work surface, which will become the lower and upper edges of the insulation placement. The foam is fixed to a special adhesive solution.

Insulation with mineral wool

A common method of thermal insulation is to insulate walls with mineral wool. This is a fibrous material made from mineral raw materials, non-flammable, and highly breathable. Mineral wool is suitable for installation on all types of building structures. The material is resistant to caustic substances, but absorbs water, so it requires a special waterproofing system. Mineral wool has long term operation - up to 70 years.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

One of the best ways thermal insulation is considered to be the insulation of a building from the outside with pressed polystyrene foam, the second name of which is “penoplex”. The material is slightly denser than polystyrene foam, less flammable, and durable. Expanded polystyrene is waterproof and resistant to deformation. One of the disadvantages is poor sound insulation. Penoplex is available in the form of slabs, which must be fixed without gaps to protect the insulation from damage by rodents.

Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the material onto the prepared facade. Using this substance as insulation has the following advantages:

• the material, expanding, fills cracks and small depressions;
• polyurethane foam has good adhesion - it fits perfectly to the base, covering the surface without joints, with a continuous layer;
• the substance becomes durable after hardening;
• it has increased moisture resistance;
• polyurethane foam serves as an excellent sound insulator.

Insulation with basalt slabs

Reliable insulation external walls The houses are provided with environmentally friendly basalt slabs made from mineral wool. The material does not ignite, has excellent windproof and cold-resistant abilities, and does not accumulate moisture. Thermal insulation with basalt slabs allows for almost any façade finishing. Installation of the material has a simple technology, so you can do it yourself. The external thickness of the material is deceptive - you can even cut it with a kitchen knife.

How to insulate a house from the outside and with what

External wall insulation will significantly reduce heat loss indoors. The choice of materials and thermal insulation technology depends on specific conditions - the house is made of brick or wood, the attic or ground floor will be insulated. By insulating the facade correctly, you will make your home warm, protect the room from the formation of fungus, mold, dampness and isolate your home from extraneous street noise.

How to insulate wooden house outside and what

A house made of wood has some advantages over a stone house or a brick building - the cost is lower, the environmental friendliness is higher. The main disadvantages are: low thermal conductivity of the timber, small thickness of the walls and the presence of gaps between them. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house can be done by constructing a hinged ventilation facade with mineral wool, spraying polyurethane or covering the facade with polystyrene foam. When insulating a wooden country house, you need to take care of the vapor barrier layer and waterproofing. Insulation for the external walls of a house will allow you to:

• transform the facade;
• protect the tree from the adverse effects of the environment;
• increase thermal efficiency;
• save interior space;
• prevent the occurrence of dampness and mold;
• protect from cold winds.

Insulation brick house outside using modern methods

In order to maintain a stable, comfortable temperature in the house throughout the year, it is recommended to insulate the brick walls from the outside. When choosing insulation, you should take into account what kind of brick the building is built from (hollow, solid, ceramic, silicate). Brick houses are often insulated using the hinged ventilated facade method or the “wet” method. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, and expanded polystyrene are used as insulation.

How to insulate the outside walls of a house inexpensively

People often wonder how to cheaply insulate a house from the outside. If you don’t know how cheaper it is to insulate a house from the outside, pay attention to polystyrene foam. This insulation may be slightly inferior to others in thermal insulation capabilities, but it does a good job of maintaining a comfortable temperature. The material has excellent thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, its main disadvantage is flammability. Working with polystyrene foam is easy, so you can buy the material and try to insulate your home yourself, also saving on paying for the work of craftsmen.

Price for external wall insulation

Thermal insulation of a home is not a cheap pleasure. If you calculate the costs of heating a building with electricity, it becomes clear that the price of the service will soon pay for itself. The cost of thermal insulation is calculated taking into account the selected materials, the complexity of the work, and the size of the insulated area. Find out in the table below how much it costs to insulate a house outside in Moscow, and how the price of the service differs in different construction companies.

Insulation of walls outside a house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, installation technology with video

Insulating walls outside is an opportunity to create a comfortable microclimate in the house. Find out about the types of insulation, methods of thermal insulation and prices, use the tips from the video.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages

Today, walking along the street, you are unlikely to find at least one house where external wall insulation has not yet been carried out. The result of such work is easily recognizable - the home in some areas is “sheathed” with colored foam plastic boards. Recently, the number of apartments whose owners have decided to resort to this method has been increasing. Let's understand the principle of external insulation, find out the reasons for its popularity, as well as the pros and cons of this type of work.

The problem of heat and moisture insulation

Now more and more residents are faced with the problem of heat and moisture insulation. This mainly applies to old houses, the service life of which is more than 20 years, because new buildings are usually delivered with insulation. As a result of such problems, in winter the temperature in the apartment drops sharply, which leads to increased heating costs. In summer, on the contrary, the room is stuffy, the air is hot and stale. Also, due to the accumulation of moisture, mold or fungal formations may appear on the walls, which are quite difficult to combat.

External wall insulation

One of the most common solutions is external (external) wall insulation . Now we will look at the main advantages and disadvantages of this method, but first we should understand a little about its essence.

How is external wall insulation carried out?

So, how is external wall insulation carried out? The main element of the insulating structure, as a rule, is expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). Experts in the field of industrial mountaineering paste the walls of apartments with slabs of this material. In addition to foam plastic, waterproofing fiberglass mesh, glue, primer, paint and dowels are also used for insulation. The insulation technology consists of several (5-7) stages, and the entire process takes from one to five days (mostly, the duration is explained required quantity time for the glue to dry at intermediate stages). First, the working surface is prepared - cleaning and priming the walls. Then, in fact, the foam is fixed. At the next stage, a reinforced mesh is installed, which is covered with an adhesive mixture. At the end, the walls are primed, plastered and painted.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The main advantages of external wall insulation include, first of all, the ability to eliminate the problems listed at the beginning of the article. That is, after high-quality insulation, the temperature in your apartment will stabilize (it will become warm in winter, cool in summer), which means that the costs of heating and cooling rooms will be reduced; Troubles associated with moisture removal will disappear (wallpaper will stop coming off and paint will stop crumbling, dampness, mold and mildew will disappear). Expanded polystyrene prevents corrosion of steel reinforcement and destruction of concrete by limiting access to the walls of water, carbon dioxide and other aggressive substances, and by preventing temperature changes, the durability of insulated walls increases.

TO additional advantages credited with a significant improvement in sound insulation (in particular, up to 90-95% of extraneous street noise disappears) and a more respectable appearance.

Also, after external insulation of the walls, unlike a similar internal option, the living space of the room is not reduced (which, when internal insulation can be reduced by up to 5% of the entire apartment).

Disadvantages of external wall insulation

It should be immediately noted that the number of shortcomings directly depends on the quality of the materials used for insulation and on compliance with the rules for performing the work. Therefore, shortcomings are considered in the classic case - when the work is done “according to instructions”. Simply put, craftsman errors or expired glue will not be taken into account.

The main disadvantage is the impossibility of carrying out external insulation of walls at any time. The following conditions must be met: air temperature of at least 5 degrees C, and preferably from 20 degrees C, air humidity of approximately 60% (it is advisable to carry out work in summer in hot weather, it is strictly forbidden to do this in winter when sub-zero temperature); absence of strong gusts of wind, due to which the glue or primer dries too quickly and cracks may form; and, of course, there should be no precipitation during the entire period of work.

As already mentioned, external insulation of walls is a rather lengthy process, moreover, requiring not the easiest work of industrial mountaineering masters. Agree, for several days in a row watching how strangers hanging in front of your windows is quite a sight.

A separate drawback is the price. With a total area of ​​the insulated surface of 15-25 m2 and an average cost of 650 rubles (220 UAH)/m2, all work will cost approximately 10,000-17,000 rubles (3,500-5,500 UAH). True, the costs are recouped in about 5 years.

So if you are not worried that after a long wait you will shell out a tidy sum, and the walls of your apartment will stand out in green, pink, blue or other colors against the background of the rest of the nondescript house, if you are tired of struggling with temperature and humidity, and are sure that the outside wall insulation is exactly what you need, then feel free to choose the right company. Fortunately, there are plenty to choose from.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages photos and videos

// Contents[Hide]The problem of heat and moisture insulation External wall insulation How is external wall insulation carried out? Advantages of external insulation...

Guide to external wall insulation

• • Choice of insulation
  • Surface preparation
  • How to attach insulation
  • Insulation reinforcement

There are different options for external wall insulation. External wall insulation is classified according to the selected insulation material and the method of manufacturing the heat-insulating layer. The thermal insulation layer can be ventilated, covered entirely with the outer wall, or only plastered.

It is best to insulate the walls from the outside during the construction phase of the building.

There are enough insulation materials to choose the one you need. The difference in the labor intensity of processes actually does not determine the quality of work so significantly that it is always necessary to use hired labor.

You can easily do external insulation with your own hands if you know what stages this process consists of.

Self-insulation of walls

Doing external insulation with your own hands with a ventilated façade structure is much more difficult than using a multi-layer wall or insulation with plastering and finishing for painting. Since a multilayer wall involves installing an additional wall on top of the insulation, for example, brickwork, which requires knowledge of certain nuances, you should consider the most affordable, but no less functional and quality option: insulate the external walls of the house using insulation and finishing. First you need to choose insulation that will provide the necessary thermal conductivity characteristics for the walls.

Choice of insulation

Insulation of walls with foam plastic.

Insulation is the main part of external wall insulation, but in this process, if you want to do the insulation yourself, you will not need to think long about the choice, and this is a rather pleasant fact. Insulation materials currently offered, such as

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• cellulose insulation;
• basalt slabs.

have indistinguishable characteristics. The main difference between them lies in three basic parameters: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and moisture resistance.

Different insulation materials have different parameters, which may differ depending on the manufacturer. In this regard, you will need to make calculations of the heat emitted by the building and understand what thickness of insulation to use. Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool require less thickness, and it is much easier to install them yourself.

Thermal conductivity parameters are indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer, and if you provide the sellers with the parameters of your own insulated building (material and thickness of walls, heating, presence of windows, floors used, foundation), then they will be able to calculate the required amount of insulation for you. As for vapor permeability and moisture resistance, you should focus on weather conditions, that is, determine how significant changes in moisture and temperature are throughout the year and choose the best option for you.

Surface preparation

External wall insulation scheme.

In order to secure the insulation, specialized adhesive mixtures are used to ensure the necessary adhesion. Accordingly, on preparatory stage You should not so much create adhesion for the walls as simply level them so that the insulation fits fairly evenly and there are no significant differences between the seams.

As a rule, the walls of every house are more or less smooth and do not require extensive sanding. If the differences are insignificant, then additional leveling is not required, because subsequent layers of plaster and finishing will level this out. If there are significant distortions, additional tools should be used to prepare the surface, for example, simply grinding discs.

A primer is applied to the surface of the leveled external walls. If the walls have unevenness, it is advisable to use a couple of layers, and apply the next layer only after the initial one has dried.

Any mixtures that contain water change their qualities depending on the temperature. This also applies to adhesive mixtures on which insulation is placed. It is important to take this fact into account and perform work only at an air temperature of five degrees Celsius.

How to attach insulation

Scheme of cutting a wall insulated with foam plastic.

When the primer on the walls of the house has completely dried, layers of thermal insulation should be laid. To install the bottom layer, you will need to secure a metal guide around the perimeter of the walls, which is installed approximately above the base of the building. For fastening, use anchors or dowels (depending on the availability of certain tools you have and the quality of the walls).

Next, they begin installing the house’s insulation, a description of which is offered below. Mix the adhesive mixture (consultants who helped you choose insulation and other materials and components will help you in choosing) and install thermal insulation plates. For example, you can take foam plastic, which is easy to install with your own hands and does not require any extraordinary skills.

The adhesive mixture is applied only to foam plastic (or other insulation), but not to walls. An indent of a couple of centimeters is made from the edges, and the mixture is evenly distributed around the perimeter, and in the center of the resulting contour, 2-3 piles of the mixture are made using a spatula with a diameter of about 100-120 millimeters. Such tiles are applied to the walls of the house and subsequent ones continue to be applied using this technology.

What is great about materials such as polystyrene foam and mineral wool is their ease of molding. Cutting a piece to the size you need is not difficult, and this is good, given the need to make a fire-resistant mineral wool contour around the perimeter of the windows.

When laying polystyrene foam, you should leave about twenty centimeters to the perimeter of the windows and this perimeter should be made of mineral wool in an identical manner to the previously described method. Of course, if you use fire-resistant materials for all insulation, then you will not need this. Such contours are used only if insulation is done with flammable material, as this complies with existing standards.

To ensure that the external thermal insulation of the walls is strong, dowels with a pressing element are additionally used (this is a plastic circle that allows you to press greatest number insulation with dowel). Dowels should be installed at least between the seams of the foam so that the panels fit tightly. First, holes for the length of the dowel are drilled in the walls of the house through the materials used, and then they are driven in with a hammer.

To ensure that the insulation of the outer wall is not subject to deformation from external influences, the external slopes are additionally reinforced with perforated metal angles. The angles are fixed to the adhesive mixture that was used to fix the materials.

Insulation reinforcement

The next stage of insulation is reinforcement, for which a specialized fiberglass reinforcing mesh is used. First, make a layer of adhesive mixture, and then carefully apply the mesh with your own hands over the entire space of the insulation. Moreover, the mesh should be drowned in the adhesive mixture, and the seams should only be overlapped.

The reinforced surface is covered with a new layer of glue and carefully smoothed. So the reinforcing mesh does not protrude above the surface and is located deep in the adhesive mass.

The final stage of external insulation

As a rule, it takes about a couple of days for the reinforcing layer to dry completely. Next, the surface is primed and putty for painting or decorative plaster is applied, depending on the type of further finishing.

Making external wall insulation with your own hands is quite simple, and for this process you will need no more than a week, and also available materials, which are easy to purchase in a specialized store, and a minimum of skills.

Do-it-yourself external wall insulation: guide (photos and videos)

How to do external insulation of the walls of a house with your own hands? How to choose the highest quality and most affordable method, select materials for thermal insulation and install them?

30% of the heat from a house escapes through the walls. This has been proven by research. Therefore, in order to reduce heat loss, it is recommended not to do it from the inside. Firstly, internal thermal insulation– this is a reduction in the space of rooms. Secondly, the dew point passes under the insulation, that is, between the wall and the heat-insulating layer. This means that the wall will freeze, which will affect its technical condition. Today, manufacturers of thermal insulation materials offer a wide range of their products. But the question of which one to choose does not become less relevant. Insulation for the exterior walls of a house (price, technical characteristics, installation methods) is the most important component of construction. Therefore, its choice must be approached with special care.

Read in the article

Criteria for choosing insulation for the external walls of a house

The main indicator by which to make a choice is. The smaller it is, the better. The second criterion is hygroscopicity. This property is designated as - to absorb moisture. The thing is that moist air vapors that have penetrated inside at low temperatures will begin to turn into ice, which will negate all the characteristics of the heat-insulating material. They learned to deal with this by covering the insulating layer on both sides with vapor and waterproofing films. But these are just another material expense. Although in some cases this cannot be avoided.

The third criterion is strength. The outer side of the wall is an area often subject to various loads, including mechanical ones. And although the thermal insulation layer will still need to be covered, this does not mean that the strength of the insulation should be approached from the position of “this is an unimportant component.”

The fourth rule of choice is the price of the product. There is a fairly wide range, which includes both very cheap and very expensive materials. Of course, the price is determined by the quality. But there are offers on the market in which the price-quality ratio is within optimal limits. Therefore, it is worth understanding all the offered insulation materials and choosing not the most expensive one, but with good technical and operational characteristics.

Types of thermal insulation materials for external wall insulation

Thermal insulation for external walls is several modern materials, belonging to the categories of fibrous and cellular.

1. The first group includes mineral wools: stone, glass, slag. The first is made from various rocks, which are melted and drawn into threads, then they are woven in a chaotic manner. For the second, the raw material is glass, for the third, blast furnace waste (slag). Three types have an increased hygroscopicity coefficient.
2. The second group includes polymer materials that acquire a cellular structure during the production process. It can be closed or open. The first option is better because such insulation does not absorb moisture.

Let's look at several basic insulation materials for exterior walls and outline their technical characteristics.

Characteristics	Glass wool	Slag	Stone
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.03÷0.052	0.046÷0.048	0.035÷0.041
Maximum heating temperature, °C	500	300	600
Water absorption,%	2÷3	2	1÷2
Fiber thickness, microns	5÷15	4÷12	3÷5
Fiber length, mm	15÷50	16	5÷10

The table shows those characteristics that are not related to the density of the material. Because manufacturers offer models with different densities, hence the purpose of each brand. For example, P-75 insulation has a density of 75 kg/m³. This type of wool is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of surfaces that are not subject to heavy mechanical loads. That is, for insulating walls outside the house, this option is just right. Although we must take into account the fact that this material does not have the highest strength. It is optimal to use PZh-175 wool for reinforced concrete walls.

Attention! Mineral wool is available in rolls and mats. For thermal insulation of walls, it is better to use the second form of manufacture.

Manufacturers today, for example, offer basalt wool in mats, one edge of which compresses well, but expands when installed between frame elements. Thus, the material fits tightly to the frame without creating cold bridges.

Polymer cellular insulation

The most famous insulation from this category is polystyrene foam. Essentially, these are polystyrene boards in which the original material is only 2%, the rest is air. Hence the good thermal insulation performance, low strength, and low price.

It should be noted that the polystyrene foam used as packaging cannot be called insulation. That is, when talking about insulation for the external walls of a house, we must mean modified polystyrene foam boards.

Modified polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene boards for thermal insulation differ from packaging foam by their increased density. The second one is made using a non-press method, hence its low strength characteristics. Expanded polystyrene boards are molded under pressure using high temperatures, thereby increasing their density and, accordingly, strength.

There is also so-called extruded polystyrene foam in this category; its prominent representative is the slabs produced under the brand name. This is still the same polymer insulation, only its production technology is based on melting the raw materials, followed by the addition of a foaming agent and molding under pressure, or rather, extrusion. This process is called extrusion. Wherein this technology allows you to cast any shaped product, not just slabs.

So, let's compare three foam polystyrene insulation materials; pressless - PSB, pressed - PS, extruded - EPS.

Characteristics	PSB	PS	EPS
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0.032÷0.036	0.032÷0.035	0,032
Density, kg/m³	15÷50	25÷45	25÷45
Compressive strength, MPa	0.07÷0.38	0.15÷0.25	0,2
Bending strength, MPa	0.15÷0.42	0.2÷0.25	0,25
Water absorption,%	8÷10	4	0,4

Now, as for insulating the house from the outside with polystyrene foam, that is, a non-pressed model. This material has a high water absorption rate. Therefore, in any case, it will have to be closed. Insulating a house from the outside with Penoplex is an opportunity not only not to cover the thermal insulation layer with waterproofing, but also to apply wet types of finishes to it: and.

Again, pay attention to the density. All other parameters depend on it. The denser the slab, the higher the quality of its characteristics.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most best insulation with the lowest thermal conductivity – 0.019÷0.03 W/(m×K). At the same time, the polymer also has other high characteristics:

• does not absorb water;
• does not allow steam to pass through;
• high chemical resistance;
• attaches to any building materials without additional fasteners;
• low G1, some varieties of polyurethane foam are self-extinguishing types;
• the density of the material is 30÷80 kg/m³;
• service life of at least 30 years.

Attention! Polyurethane foam is prepared on a construction site by combining two components: polyol and isocyanate. Mixing with each other, they form liquid mixture, which is applied to the wall for thermal insulation. In air, the insulation turns into a hard and durable material.

That is, to carry out thermal insulation measures with polyurethane foam, special equipment is needed, where the two components are mixed. The insulation itself is applied under pressure to the surfaces to be insulated.

Alternative solutions - liquid insulation for walls

The term “liquid insulation” for walls and other structures is just slang among ordinary people. This material is mastic or, which includes:

• hollow microgranules in the form of spheres (0.02÷0.1 mm in diameter), made of ceramics, glass, polymers;
• microporous titanium dioxide particles;
• binding component, acrylic or latex is often used.

Since the consistency of the material is liquid, it is applied to the surfaces to be treated in the usual ways: using a brush, roller or spray. In this case, a thin film is formed on the surfaces - at least 1 mm. And it is enough to talk about thermal protection.

But why does such a thin coating create a warming effect? Here you need to understand in what ways heat flows through the walls of the house.

1. Thermal conductivity of the wall. That is, heat is transferred from a heated material to a cold one. IN liquid thermal insulation Only binding ingredients can transfer heat. And there are only 20% of them in the volume of insulation.
2. Convection. There are no options here, because the composition of the thermal insulation material consists of granules filled with air that occupy a large volume.
3. Radiation. This is the transfer of thermal energy due to the energy state of the substance itself. Inside the mastic, 90% are balls that reflect thermal energy. That is, the material applied to the walls of the house creates the effect of a thermos.

Today, manufacturers of liquid thermal insulation offer different compositions that are used for different building structures. Since materials for insulating walls from the outside are being sorted out, it is necessary to choose mastic intended for application to the facade of the building. Its name must contain the word “Facade”. For example, Korund-Facade, Bronya-Facade. Although many universal thermal paints can be used for thermal insulation of external walls of buildings.

Here are the technical characteristics of Korund-Facade:

Characteristics	Paint Corundum-Facade
Thermal conductivity, W/(m×K)	0,0012
Heat transfer, W/(m²×K)	4
Vapor permeability, mg/(m×h×Pa)	0,03
Water absorption,%	2
Service life for concrete surfaces, years	10
Film elasticity for bending, mm	1
Resistance to temperature changes, °C	-60 to +120
Paint application temperature, °C	+7
Adhesion, point	1

Ventilated facades

IN modern construction two varieties are used:

1. Traditional, when applied directly to the wall surface with different methods of fastening.
2. Ventilated- this is when there is a gap between the wall and the cladding that acts as ventilation. With its help, damp vapors and condensation are removed from the wall surface.

So, in the first case, when the task is to thermally insulate a wall, moisture-resistant materials are used. These include polystyrene foam boards made using extrusion technology. That is, if the question of choosing insulation for the walls of a house outside is raised, then Penoplex is used. It is simply glued to the wall with a special adhesive or secured with mushroom-shaped screws. Polyurethane foam performs well under wet surfaces.

As for ventilated facades, any of the insulation described above can be used here. Because this design, firstly, it is framed, and secondly, it can be attached to it in the form of a membrane, which will preserve the insulation from the negative effects of moisture.

For example, how to properly use mineral wool in ventilated insulated facades.

1. The frame is placed on the wall - these are vertical wooden ones, the distance between which should be slightly less than the width of the basalt mat.
2. A vapor barrier film with sagging is laid. That is, it is attached to the frame, but the main canvas must be adjacent to the wall surface.
3. Insulation is placed between the sheathing elements.
4. On top frame structure the waterproofing membrane is filled.
5. Exactly the same bars are installed and fastened along the frame elements.
6. Cladding in the form of and other sheet or panel products is mounted on them.

Three-layer wall structure

This technology for wall insulation has been known for a long time. Essentially, these are two walls between which thermal insulation material is laid. The option is very good, but with some requirements for the insulation, because this layer must last a long time. Getting to it if replacement or repair is required will be difficult, and often impossible. Therefore, there are two main requirements:

1. The material must be resistant to shrinkage. This can only be achieved by polystyrene foam boards of the PS or EPS brand with a density of at least 45 kg/m³.
2. Water absorption of thermal insulation should not exceed 1%. We turn to the tables with technical characteristics and see that only polystyrene foam boards made by extrusion meet this requirement.

There are no other options, so this technology uses Penoplex.

Rules for calculating insulation for house walls

Let's move on to a very important question: how to calculate the thickness of the insulation. To make it clear, let’s consider it using the example of insulating a wall built from a foam block 30 cm or 0.3 m thick. The insulation is basalt wool, which will be covered from the outside with facing bricks 12 cm thick (0.12 m).

Input data:

1. Thermal conductivity of the foam block is 0.26 W/(m×K).
2. The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is 0.045.
3. Thermal conductivity of brick is 0.52.
4. Thermal resistance of the region where the house is being built is 3.45 m²×°C/W. This corresponds to an indoor temperature of +22°C.

R = N / λ , Where

N – material thickness,

λ – its thermal conductivity.

• Rс = 0.3 × 0.26 = 0.078 is the thermal resistance of the wall.
• Rк = 0.12 × 0.52 = 0.062 - this is an indicator for brick.

The resistance of a region is the sum of the resistances of all materials used in the construction of the wall of a house. That is:

R = Rс + Rк + Rу , Where

Rу - this is the thermal resistance of the insulation, and you need to find it.

It turns out:

Rу = R – Rс – Rк = 3.45 – 0.078 – 0.062 = 3.31.

From the formula: R=H/λ You can display the thickness of the insulating layer: H = R × λ = 3.31 × 0.045 = 0.15 m , or 15 cm, or 150 mm.

The thickness of thermal insulation materials in comparison