Russian oven. The largest furnace The largest furnace in the world

Russian stove

Press release

Opening of the largest Russian stove in the world!

December 22, 2007 the opening of the museum "Russian stove" , which has the largest Russian stove in the world (stove height 11 m, its perimeter 6x9 m).

It is symbolic that on the shortest and darkest day of the year - the Slavic holiday Karachun-Kolyada, in "ETNOMIR" the fire of light and warmth of the heart of every Russian house will light up - Russian stove. The rite of ignition of the fire will take place according to the ancient Slavic tradition.

On the territory of the museum "Russian stove" (the territory is 1 hectare) houses with stoves from different regions of Russia will be presented. Now work is underway on the ethnographic reconstruction of houses and stoves. In the center is presented Russian stove , which you can go into and visually get acquainted with all the tricks of furnace art, see how the Russian Stove from within. You can also drink tea there and get acquainted with the exposition of the museum - old shutters, tongs, teapots and samovars. Russian Stove The museum was built according to all the rules for laying a stove in Rus'. This is the first object in the construction of the cultural and educational complex "Ethnomir" and will open on December 22, 2007, as a symbol of the home and hearth of every Russian family.

The creation of the museum has a short, but interesting and rich history. Last year, the Chairman of the Council for Culture under the Governor of the Kaluga Region, I. A. Soldatenkov, said that he had long dreamed of a museum dedicated to the history of Russian stove. The idea seemed so successful and original to us that we began the process of creating a museum with great enthusiasm. We got acquainted with the National League of stove-makers of Russia, then with the Moscow Guild of stove-makers. It turned out that the idea of creating a museum was also very close to them. Thanks to the stove-makers of the Moscow Guild, their support and assistance, the development of the project went forward. Special thanks to members of the Pechnikov Guild Sergey Nikolaevich Yakunin, Sergey Ivanovich Nesov and Alexander Beletsky (Lvov Foundation) for providing materials with which the stoves are laid. The stoves themselves are laid by the stove-maker Mikhail Mikhailovich Rudametkin, who came from the ancient Russian village of the Old Believers-Molokans Fioletovo, located in mountainous Armenia. The inhabitants of this village were able to preserve Russian traditions so completely that it is worth learning a lot from them again.

Furnace art in Rus' is a special kind of folk art with rich traditions and techniques. The Russian stove had a significant impact on the traditions and rituals of the Russian people, which is why it is often mentioned in songs, epics, fairy tales, proverbs and sayings. It is precisely such a significant role of the oven in the life of the Russian people that explains the fact that the first ethno-courtyard that opens on the territory of the cultural and educational center "ETNOMIR" was the courtyard "Museum of the Russian Furnace".

“The oven heats and cooks, bakes and fries. She will feed, dry and delight the soul”, “Our dear mother bake us”, “All summer is red on the stove”, “Kind speech, if there is a stove in the hut”, “It’s better not to feed bread, but don’t drive from the stove” - said the Russian people from time immemorial. Indeed, with its help, not only village huts and city estates were heated - they cooked food in the oven, they were treated and slept on it, legends and fairy tales were composed about it. Russian stove contributed to the emergence and development of many folk crafts. On long winter evenings, the stove gathered household members around it. As an integral part of the life of most people, the Russian stove had a great influence on rituals and traditions. For example, strangers were introduced to the family through the oven. Travelers, putting their hands to the stove and warmed by the inner warmth of the house, could no longer harm this house, since kindness disarms.

Dear guests, we invite you to the opening of the largest Russian stove December 22, 2007!

We are waiting for your visit!

Sincerely,

Vice-President of the ICF "Dialogue of Cultures - One World"

Korshunova Elena

8-903-195-43-68

"Ethnomir" claims for the Guinness Book of Records

r e p o r t a g

Cultural and educational agro-tourist center "Ethnomir" set a world record. On its territory, the largest (height 11 m, perimeter 6x9 m) Russian stove was built, the presentation of which took place on December 22. However, such unique structures as a stove the height of a three-story building are no longer a rarity for Etnomir. Until recently, a huge khan-yurt, installed in the same center, was also the largest in the world. However, Kazakhstan nevertheless broke this record by building a yurt a meter higher. Ruslan Bayramov, President of the Dialogue of Cultures - One World Foundation, commented on this: “We dream that they would also want to “overtake” our stove, create another, their own, bigger one.”

In the Russian stove itself, you could buy handicrafts from Borovsk. On the second floor of the building, where real stove there must have been a flame, a gigantic fire was really burning. More precisely, his hologram, accompanied by a sound imitation of the crackling of logs. Naturalistic, moving flames occupied the entire wall of the second floor of the museum.

It is noteworthy that the presentation was organized on the shortest and darkest day of the year, the day of celebration of the ancient Slavic holiday Karachun-Kolyada. According to Ruslan, this stove is also a symbol of the transmission of fire, an ancient ritual of our ancestors, who dreamed of summer warmth in the middle of winter.

A briefing for journalists was organized in Khan-Yurt, where the guests were seated in a circle among soft pillows. The atmosphere was reminiscent of the khan's council of elders. Then the performances of folklore ensembles began, a tour of the Russian stove and a traditionally plentiful Russian treat. Journalists who were worried on the way to Borovsk whether they would be able to find at least something to eat at Etnomir and whether they would freeze after spending so much time in the cold were in for a surprise. Refreshments for the guests were organized everywhere: on the bus itself, at a press conference in the Khan-Yurt, on the street ... And besides, it was only necessary to go into one of the huts that surrounded the Russian stove (each hut represented the architecture of some region of Russia), how you were immediately treated to borscht, noodles, pickles, potatoes and pies. Curiously, the recipe of each dish is unique. They were written down and brought to Moscow from the settlement of Russian Old Believers in Azerbaijan, native village Ruslana Bairamova. Even the guests were served unusual tea, infused with a special herbal tea.

In each hut, the guests were met by the "mistress of the house" - dressed in a traditional costume and carefully watching the treats for the guests. Some girls, who seemed especially thin, were even downright persuaded to join the feast. In addition, a stove was kindled in each of the houses, and next to it, armed with tongs, everyone took pictures with pleasure. You could also go into the yurt to appreciate the wealth interior design and drink the tea left by the organizers for the guests.

Russian ovens are different sizes And different designs- simple and more complex, with a stove and a heating shield. These ovens are almost universal, but they also have some disadvantages. So, it is difficult to cook some dishes in them that require monitoring their preparation: it is almost impossible to observe this in the crucible of a Russian oven.

The big disadvantage of Russian stoves is that they emit heat starting from the bottom of the stove, which is at a distance of up to 900 mm from the floor, and that part of the room that is below the bottom does not heat up.

Not all fuel in the Russian stove burns simultaneously at all points of the furnace. So, the part of the fuel that is closer to the mouth burns out much faster than the one at the mouth. rear wall. This happens because most of the oxygen necessary for combustion is consumed at the very mouth and very little reaches its rear wall.

Here we consider medium-sized ovens. If a small or large oven is needed, then it is laid out in exactly the same way, only in a reduced or enlarged form. The devices used are the same.

Consider the details of a simple Russian stove without a samovar (Fig. 180). The furnace is built on a solid foundation, 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the furnace. In its lower part there is free space - an under-furnace with a hole in the front of the furnace. The podpeche is used to store stove equipment: tongs, pokers, scoops, etc.

The underfurnace overlaps brick vault, strip, angle or other shaped steel, concrete beams or wooden blocks on which concrete or wooden flooring is arranged. Boards take thick, unplaned. The safest in terms of fire are reinforced concrete or concrete slabs or brick flooring on steel or concrete beams. Their ends should go on the walls of the masonry by at least 50, and preferably by 100 mm. At the level of the flooring, a cold stove is made from the front of the furnace.

In order to avoid strong heating on wooden flooring, it is necessary to lay two or three layers of insulation made of felt soaked in clay mortar and covered with roofing steel on top, which is pre-painted on both sides. Such insulation protects the boards from excessive heating and prevents the backfill from spilling out from under the hearth. Seams between concrete slabs or bricks must be coated with any solution. In addition, wooden parts must be pre-treated with an antiseptic against tree beetles and tree fungus.

On the front side, at the level of the hearth of the furnace, approximately at a height of 800-900 mm from the floor, they arrange a hearth, a flat platform of bricks, on which it is best to lay a cast-iron stove without burners. The plate protects the brick platform from rapid destruction and facilitates the movement of dishes on it. A rectangular hole is left above the hearth - the hearth window. Various utensils are placed on the six.

The hearth window is covered with a brick arch or two pieces of angled or strip steel. WITH front side they put corner steel, and from the inside - strip steel, because it heats up less. The wide shelf of the corner, which goes into the overtube, heats up more. According to fire safety rules, wooden beams cannot be used here. Instead, you can lay a concrete beam.

In all other cases, except for those listed, when laying stoves in places of strong heating, it is not recommended to use steel, since, when heated, it expands and destroys the masonry.

Opposite the hearth is the main part of the furnace - the cooking chamber (crucible) with a hole - the forehead (mouth) in the front wall of the chamber, which is rectangular or in the form of a vault. The mouth is used for laying fuel in the crucible, placing dishes with food. Above the mouth, up to the top of the crucible, there is a wall - a gas threshold with a height of at least 180 mm, counting from the top of the crucible. The arch of the furnace must be raised by at least 50 mm in comparison with its front side, counting from the hearth. This is necessary so that hot gases are always in the under-roof space located above the mouth, and heat not only the roof, but also under the furnace. The hot gases retained in this way are completely burned there, contributing to the heating of the furnace. If there is no such threshold, then hot gases will escape into the atmosphere.

In the sixth to the right (or to the right and left) of the mouth there are cavities called ash pans or eyelets. They often contain various dishes or ash. The mouth of the furnace is closed by a barrier (gate) desired shape with one or two handles.

Above the hearth there is an overtube 10 (like an overturned box), in which smoke is collected, from where it enters the chimney. To prevent the stove from smoking, the distance from the hearth to the overtube should not exceed the height of the mouth of the stove by more than 220 mm (three rows of masonry). The overtube, i.e., the smoky passage from the mouth of the furnace to the very view, should narrow gradually, and not in ledges, which is achieved by squeezing the brick. If, under these conditions, the stove still smokes, the cause of smoking should be sought in the pipe.

To trap sparks when gases escape into the chimney, a special wall with a bevel is arranged in front of the view or valve, forming a box, as it were, in which soot falling from the walls of the chimney is also collected. A tightly closing door is placed in front of the view. The furnace can be closed either with only one valve, or with only one view, but it is more tightly closed by both at the same time, or by two valves, above which the pipe begins. The valve is recommended to be placed above the view, which is a good hood.

The most important part of the oven is the cooking chamber. The brick for its device must be selective, especially for the implementation of the arch.

The walls of the cooking chamber can be of various thicknesses. Thin walls quickly heat up, but also cool down quickly, thick walls - vice versa. The wall thickness of 3/4 of a brick is considered normal (brick flat and edgewise), but 1 brick is better. The front outer and inner walls in front of the crucible are made in 1/2 brick.

180. Details of the Russian oven
1 - underbake; 2 - wooden flooring; 3 - cold stove; 4 - backfill; 5 - under: 6 - six; 7 - hearth window; 8 - cooking chamber (crucible); 9 - front wall of the chamber with a forehead (mouth); 10 - overtube; 11 - gas threshold; 12- ash pans (eyes); 13 - view; 14 - valve; 15 - pipe; 16 - vault; 17 - backfill under the ceiling; 18 - overlapping over the arch of the cooking chamber

181. shape of vaults
a - semicircular; b - three-center; c - barrel-shaped (side view)

The vault of the chamber should have a slope towards the mouth. When installing overlap 18 above the chamber, the upper plane of the furnace must be flat. Since the vault is made with a slope, it is necessary to arrange a leveling layer in the form of sand backfill 17 along it. Some stove-makers replace the backfill with clay mortar on fine brick rubble.

The pod is located at the bottom of the cooking chamber. For its implementation, an even and smooth brick is required. The flooring of the hearth is carried out without mortar, dry. Before it starts, it is necessary to make backfill 4 from a material that accumulates heat in itself and warms up evenly. Good filling ensures normal baking of bakery products from the bottom side.

Coarse-grained sand mixed with broken glass (sheet, bottle, etc.) or with gravel or crushed stone with a particle size of 150-180 mm is suitable for backfilling. If fine gravel or crushed stone is used, then they should be mixed with sand, and a layer of coarse-grained sand 20-30 mm thick should be poured on top.

They lay under with a slight smooth rise (30-50 mm) to the rear wall of the chamber, which ensures uniform combustion of all fuel. If the bottom is made horizontal, then the fuel, burning very slowly, will slightly heat the furnace. They are laid under in two ways: either after one row of masonry walls has been laid out above the level of the hearth, or after the cooking chamber has been laid out completely. In the first case, it is much more convenient to work; in the second - you have to work lying on your chest.

The shape of the vault (Fig. 181) plays a huge role in Russian stoves. Some forms are easier to lay out, others are more difficult. Arches of a semicircular shape are easier to lay out, but hot gases are unevenly reflected from them and the floor heats up less. This is a strong arch and the load it perceives is transferred to the walls to a very small extent. Sloping three-center vaults are more difficult to lay, and they burst the walls more, but they provide uniform and strong heating of the hearth. Sloping vaults heat the hearth very well, but do not withstand heavy loads, therefore, they require the installation of screeds on the front surface of the furnace from round, angle or strip steel.

Some stove-makers make barrel-shaped three-center vaults. In addition to the usual rise to the rear wall, such an arch also has a rise of 30 mm in the middle part, exceeding the rise at the rear wall. The width of the arch also increases in the middle by 50-60 mm. It is more difficult to lay out a barrel-shaped vault, but the oven warms up better; hot gases, as it were, spread over the arch and do not fall into the overtube, like sparks, and this is safer in terms of fire.

A vault of any shape is laid out simultaneously on both sides moving towards the middle. When there is a gap less than 1/4 of a brick, a lock brick is placed in it with effort, smeared with clay mortar on three sides.

This brick should press all previously laid bricks together. Therefore, in the place left for him, he is sometimes hammered with a log or a mallet ( wooden mallet). Heels, or platforms, in the walls on which the vault rests, are hewn out of good brick with the desired slope, for which the brick must be checked with a template.

To lay out a vault with an odd number of bricks, when the last brick is a castle brick, the vault should be calculated by drawing it on paper in full size.

The easiest way is to arrange a adobe vault. For this, a strong formwork is made and clay bit is prepared - a common clay mortar for brick oven masonry. Clay must be very thick. If you stand on it, then there should be no traces of shoes on it. If you make a life-size brick out of it, put it in the middle on a stick, it should only slightly bend. Clay is prepared for wooden shield 5-7 cm layer. Cut it into strips 10-15 cm wide, so that the edges are cut into a cone. The strips are laid on the formwork, made along the curve of the vault, and compacted well with a wooden hammer with a diameter of at least 10 cm. It is impossible to wet the joined edges with water during joining. After a week or more, the formwork is dismantled. Masonry above the vault is usually done.

Side walls above the vault to the ceiling, they form, as it were, a box, which is filled with sand, and a ceiling is laid on top of bricks in one row. Sometimes it is completely laid out of brick. However, such thick walls do not transfer heat well. It is better to make stoves (recesses) in one or both walls. The number of stoves depends on the length of the chamber, there can be 3 or 4 of them. They transfer heat well into the room and are very convenient for drying. small items. The stoves should be positioned so that they overlap at the level of the ceiling with two or three rows of masonry. The width of the stoves is 150-200 mm, the height is 210 mm. The partitions between them are made in 1/2 bricks, which makes it possible to block the stoves from above with a whole brick.

Samovars, or suffocators, are square or round. Sometimes doors are inserted into them, more often they are closed with roofing steel boxes. Sometimes wooden chocks are used for this purpose, which is undesirable, since there are cases of their ignition. The shape of the box should follow the shape of the hole. It is advisable to insert a frame in the shape of a hole made of roofing steel into the air vent, which protects it from destruction by a cover. For the ventilator, they must arrange a separate channel, closed with a small valve, so that through it into winter time no heat escaped from the room.

As mentioned earlier, for more reliable closing of the furnace, it is recommended to install two valves or a valve and a view instead of one valve. They are placed one above the other at a distance of three to five rows of masonry. More often, a view is placed at the beginning of the pipe, and a valve above it, sometimes vice versa. If the vent channel is brought out so that it is between the view and the valve, then when the samovar is placed, it is enough to open only the valve (if it is higher than the view). The valve above the view is also convenient in that for better heating of the shield or over-pipe, the valve is slightly covered, thereby regulating the exit of hot gases from the furnace into the pipe. The view closes the channel more tightly than the valve, since the pancake is first laid, and then everything is covered with a lid. Opening and closing valves is more convenient than views.

It is recommended to place fuel in a Russian stove closer to the mouth, as this improves combustion. Cooking utensils are placed near the mouth on the bottom of the cooking chamber. When baking bread after the furnace, all the ashes are removed from the cooking chamber, swept under with a broom or broom. The shovel is lightly sprinkled with flour, the cooked dough of the desired shape (usually round) is placed on it, the shovel with the dough is brought to the mouth, pushed along the hearth to the right place and the dough is jerked off (shifted) onto the floor, “planted” bread.

Having become acquainted with the main details of the furnace and the requirements for them, you can start laying, strictly following the orders and carefully dressing the seams.

Russian ordinary stove (Fig. 182) - the simplest, with the minimum amount appliances. Average dimensions: length 1650 mm, width 1270 mm, height to the ceiling 2380, to the ceiling (roof of the furnace) - 1540 mm. The heat output of the furnace with one firebox per day is 2.4 kW (2100 kcal/h), with two fireboxes - 3.5 kW (3000 kcal/h).

The side and rear walls with one firebox emit 1.4 kW (1200 kcal / h) per day, the front wall with a mouth - 0.5 kW (400) and the ceiling - 0.6 kW (500 kcal / h). With two fireboxes, respectively - 2; 0.6; 0.8 kW (1750; 550; 700 kcal/h). Such a stove can heat a room with an area of 20-30 m2.

For laying the oven, you need: brick - 1610 pcs.; clay mortar - about 120 buckets; smoke damper with a size of 300 × 300 mm (it is better to put two dampers or one damper and one view); a samovar with a size of 140 × 140 mm and a damper with a size of 430 × 340 mm. The brick is pre-sorted. The best goes to the masonry of the cooking chamber.

First of all, proceed to the construction of the foundation with the laying of waterproofing. Then lay out the first part of the furnace - the underlayment.

The 1st row is best laid out from a whole brick and always on the mortar that was used for laying the foundation. It is undesirable to use scarlet brick, since the underlayment holds the entire mass of the furnace.

The 2nd, 3rd and 4th rows are laid out with a well, open on one side, in order to leave a hole for storing inventory in the oven. When laying, it is necessary to observe the dressing of the seams.

5th row. From it begins the laying of the vault (shown by thin longitudinal lines), covering the under-furnace. To support the bricks of the first row of the vault, heels are carved. Laying is carried out using formwork.

The 6th and 7th rows are laid out with dressing of the seams and laying out the arch.

8, 9 and 10 rows are laid thick! in one brick. In the 8th row, bricks 7 are installed in the middle, closing the arch.
The 11th row is laid out the same! forms, like the previous ones, in compliance with the rules for dressing the seams. It overlaps the so-called "cold stove", which is located above the opening of the oven. The well formed by the laying of the walls is completely filled with backfill, compacted and leveled so that it has a rise from the hearth to the rear wall of the cooking chamber.

182. Russian ordinary oven
1 - samovar; 2 - waterproofing; 3 - fine gravel and river sand mixed with broken glass

12th row. The hearth is laid on it. To make the underside smoother, it is sprinkled with fine sand and polished with brick to remove the protruding brick whiskers. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a hearth brick, since it is twice as large as usual in area.

13th row. The laying of the cooking chamber begins with it. The walls are laid in 3/4 bricks with a height of 190 mm (1/2 bricks and 1/4). These bricks are not tied together, but only tied up the seams. For strength, the cheeks of the walls are fastened along the main walls with a lock, for which the ends of the bricks are cut off at an angle of 45 °.

The 14th-16th rows are performed in the same way as the 13th, but with dressing of the seams.

77th row. The masonry of the mouth ends with the front wall, made in the form of a vault. From this row, they begin laying the arch of the cooking chamber, or the crucible, using a brick placed on the edge, from which the heels are cut off from the side walls to support the brick of the arch (shown by lines). Most often, in this series, the crucible arch is almost completely performed.

18th row. From this row begin laying the walls of the furnace and stoves. The space between the arch of the furnace and the walls is covered with river sand, filled with clay mortar with brick rubble. You can make solid brickwork (as shown in Fig. 182).

79th row. They lay out the walls and level the masonry of the vault, and also block the window or opening above the hearth in the form of an arch.

The 20th row is laid in such a way as to reduce the overtube hole (the space above the hearth). It is necessary to lay out the overtube as evenly as possible (and not in separate steps), for which it is necessary to cut off the brick. In the same row, continue to align the walls of the furnace. Here they arrange an overlap under the channel for the samovar (shown by shading).

The 27th row is laid in the same way as the 10th, with strict dressing of the seams. The dimensions of the overtube are reduced, the walls of the furnace are aligned.

22nd row. In this row, the size of the overtube continues to decrease. On the left side of the furnace, a samovar channel is laid (section A-A). The brick on the right side of the overtube is cut off for better movement of gases. Here they lay out a box for collecting soot. In this row, the masonry is completely leveled above the arch.

23 - 32nd rows. On the 23rd row they are laying a samovar. The channel from the samovar is located in the overtube and turns to the pipe above the valve or view. The valve for the samovar is not installed, as it is closed with a lid. In subsequent rows, they put two valves or a valve and a view. The size of the chimney channel is two bricks (260×260 mm). Above the 32nd row, pipe laying begins.

The damper and the arc for it of the desired shape and size are best made in advance. The arc will later turn out to be a good formwork when laying the forehead. The ends of the arc should be fastened in the masonry of the hearth, and from the side and upper sides (at five points) - in the masonry of the wall with paws.

Between the arc and the masonry, it is desirable to lay cord or sheet asbestos. The arc can be made from various profile steel (strip, angle, etc.).

The damper is made according to the shape of the arc, so that it adjoins the arc more closely and thereby retains heat better. For the damper, angled (25 × 25x3 mm), sheet or strip steel is used. Sheet steel must be thickened. One or two handles are attached to the damper (Fig. 183).

Improved Russian oven "Housekeeper" has small size, mm: its width 890, length 1400, height to the pipe 2240, from the floor to the hearth 770 and from the floor to the couch 1400. It has characteristic flue gas movements, it heats up from the bottom to the very top, has two fireboxes: the main (large) and additional (small). The stove can also be fired in Russian (fuel is burned in a cooking chamber or furnace). It is simple, economical, used for space heating, cooking, baking bakery products. You can heat it with any kind of solid fuel.

The furnace consists of two chambers: lower - (heating) and upper (cooking). The heating chamber is located in the under-furnace, the cooking chamber is located above it. Under, separating them, lay out two layers of bricks laid flat. The height of all parts of the furnace is the same as that of an ordinary Russian one. The oven can be equipped with a hot water box. Unlike the usual Russian stove, the Housekeeper heats the room from floor to ceiling. The temperature difference near the floor and at the level of the furnace hearth is small (2 ... 3 ° C).

A large firebox is located on the front side of the stove, a blower for it is laid from the 2nd row. A small firebox is arranged on the right side of the stove, a blower for it is laid out starting from the 4th row. Both fireboxes are covered with one cast-iron stove with two burners. The large burner should be above the large firebox. Hot gases from a small firebox are first directed to a large firebox, from which they enter the heating chamber through a slot, from there into the cooking chamber, and then into the pipe.

In the warm season, you can cook and bake pies in the cooking chamber, burning fuel there. In winter, the firebox is carried out only through a large firebox. A small firebox is used to heat food or to heat the stove in severe frosts. In a small firebox, any fuel burns well, including raw fuel.

184. Russian oven “Housekeeper”
1 - hot water box; 2 - small firebox; 3 - a large firebox; 4 - "faience"; 5 - cast iron plate; 6 - six; 7 - overtube; 8 - ventilation valve; 9 - smoke damper; 10 - strip or angle steel; 11 - rack; 12 - damper; 13 - ventilation channel; 14 - overlap; 15- slot in the hearth; 16 - brick partition; 17 - under the cooking chamber; 18 - holes in the upper part of the hearth; 19 - adobe; 20 - holes (screws); 21 - grate

Consider the device of the furnace (Fig. 184). The hot water box is installed on the right side of the furnace, near which there is a small firebox. A large firebox is placed on the front side of the furnace. The fireboxes have blowers and grates. In order not to disturb the brickwork of the hearth when moving the dishes, it is fastened with angle steel, performing the so-called "faience". The ends of the faience are laid in the masonry of the furnace walls, tying wire to them - earlobes with steel pins. The length of the lobes is up to 20 cm, the length of the pins is 8-10 cm. The lobes are fixed in the seams of the masonry. A cast-iron stove with two burners (large - above a large firebox) is the base of the hearth, over which an overtube is arranged, designed to remove odors from cooked food from the room, as well as part of the air for ventilation. At the top of the overtube there is a special channel with a ventilation valve, through which air is directed to the chimney, which is closed by a valve.

The pole is open on both sides (front and side). For the strength of the overtube, steel strips or a corner 10 are laid in the corner from the front and side sides, which are supported by a rack 11 made of round steel or a thick steel pipe.

The forehead, or mouth (hole for the cooking chamber), provided for simplicity of the device of a rectangular shape and closed by a flap 12 of the same shape, but 15-20 mm longer and wider. Made from sheet steel. The brow can also be arched, but then the damper should also be of the same shape.

ventilation duct 13 starts from the overtube (section A-A).

The heating chamber is divided into two sections by a brick partition 16 with a thickness of V2 bricks ( cuts B-B and G-G). The first section is located next to the large firebox, the second - behind the partition. The partition is made up to the 4th row in the form of two separate columns one brick thick, 210 mm high. The distance between the posts and from the posts to the furnace walls is 120 mm. Starting from the 4th row, a solid brick wall is erected - a partition with a thickness of V2 bricks. In the future, to increase the mass, two bricks are laid across, on which they will rest under the furnaces. After the installation of a solid partition in its lower part, three holes remain between the columns, or 20 screws (sections V-V and G-D), each 120 x 210 mm in size.
Consider the operation of the furnace. Hot gases from the burning fuel first enter through the gap between the rear wall of the firebox and the hearth into the first section of the heating chamber. Then, having descended, they are sent through the screws in the partition to the second section of the heating chamber, from which they enter the cooking chamber through the slot in the hearth 15, from it through four holes 18 in the roof of the cooking chamber they move to the collection channel, and from it to the pipe ( 18th and 19th rows). The movement of gases is shown by arrows (section B-B).

When laying the vault of the cooking chamber, the brick on which the vault rests is not cut off in order to arrange heels. And the first bricks of the vault are laid directly on it with an inclination into the chamber. To prevent the brick from shifting towards the outer side walls between them and the bricks of the vault, thick clay (clay bit), clay mortar with brick rubble (clay concrete) or pieces of brick on clay mortar are laid. The thickness of the adobe or brick should be such that the bricks do not lean in the opposite direction from the arch ( section B-B).

In the process of making the vault, the outer walls are laid out, filling the space between them and the vault with adobe brick, and three or four stoves are arranged on one or two sides of the furnace. You can first lay out the arch, and then lay out the walls with stoves.

A gentle vault is considered the best, since in this case the entire cooking chamber heats up more. However, this arch has a drawback: with a large load on the ceiling, it can burst the walls of the furnace, which will lead to their destruction. To prevent this from happening, under the heels of the free, yes, that is, under the bricks on which it rests, they put connections from steel strips 25 wide and 2 mm thick or from wire at least 6 mm thick with threads at the ends and nuts , under which square-shaped washers measuring 50 x 50 mm are placed (15th and 17th rows). A steep vault is stronger, but with this design of the furnace, the heating of the cooking chamber is less. It is also recommended to arrange connections under such a code.

Internal surfaces furnaces and channels must be smooth. This increases the draft of gases during combustion.

Under the cooking chamber 17 (sections B-B and G-D) consists of rows brickwork. Backfilling in this case is not done. The under rests on the walls and partition inside the heating chamber (sections 1 B-B and G-D; 10th and 11th rows).

As mentioned, in the cold season, fuel is burned in a large firebox. In this case, the dishes with food are first placed in the cooking chamber. The fuel is ignited. through the forehead When baking bakery products, the process proceeds as in a conventional Russian oven. Bread is planted after the oven is heated. When the oven is heated in Russian, the coals in the oven are swept to one or two sides of the chamber, making room for baking. Food can be cooked or heated on the stove by burning fuel in any firebox.

Materials for laying the furnace to the ceiling (without a pipe): ceramic brick - 750 pcs. (it is better to make fireboxes from refractory bricks or make a lining); clay mortar - 70 buckets; grate - 2 pcs. (for a small firebox with a size of 120 X 140 mm, for a large one - 180 x 250 mm); furnace doors - 2 pcs. (for a large firebox measuring 270 x 280 mm, for a small one - 210 x 250 mm); blower doors - 2 pcs. (for a large firebox measuring 130 x 270 mm, for a small one - 130 x 130 mm); cast iron stove with two burners measuring 350 x 650 mm; valves - 2 pcs. (for a ventilation duct measuring 130 x 140 mm, for a chimney -130 x 250 mm); damper made of roofing steel in the form of a forehead (in this case, rectangular) measuring 400 x 420 mm with one or two handles; hot water box measuring 500 x 34 x 125 mm (length x height x width); strip steel - two pieces 40 x 10 x 850 mm in size and two pieces 40 x 10 x 500 mm in size to cover the hearth and forehead (see the 15th and 17th rows); corner steel with a section of 25 x 25 x 90 mm, 1500 mm long for the “faience” device at the hearth; round steel with a diameter of 16-18 mm, a length of 350 mm or water pipe with a diameter of 25-30 mm for a rack supporting an overtube (see Fig. general form, front view, section A-A); wire 6 mm in diameter, 10 m long or steel strip; nuts and washers for ties (see 15th, 16th and 17th rows) - 16 pcs.; pre-furnace sheets of roofing steel measuring 500 x 700 mm - 2 pcs.; sheet asbestos or felt of the same dimensions.

It is better to make the foundation for the furnace solid. Not reaching two rows of masonry to the floor level, the foundation is leveled, waterproofing is laid in 2-3 layers. On the waterproofing sheet, the dimensions of the furnace are laid down, according to which brickwork is carried out to the floor level. From this level, the laying of the furnace begins directly.

A variant of the "Housekeeper" stove without a hot-water box (Fig. 185). The brick is sorted. The best is used for laying fireboxes, under the cooking and heating chambers. For laying the pipe, the brick remaining after sorting can be used.

The 1st row can be made from a whole brick in whole or in part: the outer walls - from the whole, the middle - from halves, but with dressing of the seams.
2nd row. First, the bricks are laid exactly at their location, for example, under the posts and cleaning places 1 (two cleanings on the right side of the furnace, two on the back side). In this row, a blower is laid under a large firebox. From the front of the ash pan, one brick is cut into cone 2 to make it easier to select the ash (shaded). Place columns 3 under the partition.

3rd row. They put a blower door under a large firebox. Feet are attached to the frame of the door for its reliable fastening. Continue to lay out columns 3.

4th row. They arrange a blower for a small firebox and put a door. The cleanings are covered with brickwork: under them there are holes measuring 130 x 130 mm. Two pillar bricks 3 remain in the heating chamber, located between the walls, as well as between the pillars and the walls (distance 120-130 mm). The height of the columns is 210 mm.

5th row. On the columns laid solid brick partition 4 V2 thick bricks, fixing it in the side walls with a lock. Thus, three holes (or screws) with a section of 120 x 210 mm remain under the partition. blower door a large firebox is blocked, the blower is narrowed, which is necessary for laying the grate. To increase the mass of the partition, laying it is carried out as shown in Fig. 185. The width of the columns remains unchanged, since the brick is always laid with dressing. Such masonry of the partition is performed up to the 8th row, inclusive, so that whole bricks (expand) can then be laid on it and the walls of the furnace (expand) in the under the cooking chamber. The partition divides the heating chamber into two sections. The first section 5 is located near the large firebox, and the second 6 is behind the partition, that is, between the partition and the rear wall of the furnace (sections B-B, C-C, G-D).

6th row. The grates 7 for a large firebox and 8 for a small one are laid with support on the 5th row. Above the grate of a small firebox, from the front and back sides, a brick is cut into a cone (hatching), thereby forming a well with steep walls into which fuel rolls (here it burns out faster, as it is on the grate).

7th row. They put the door of a large firebox. There should be a well above the blower. The rest of the laying is carried out in order.

8th row. Install the small firebox door. The large firebox 9 expands towards the partition so that hot gases circulate across the entire width of the first section of the heating chamber.

185A. Masonry stove "Housekeeper" without a water box

185B. Masonry stove "Housekeeper" without a water box

185 V. Laying the “Housekeeper” stove without a hot-water box
1 - cleaning; 2 - hewn brick; 3 - columns; 4 - partitions; 5 - the first section of the heating chamber; 6 - second section of the heating chamber; 7 - grate for a large firebox; 8 - grate for a small firebox; 9 - expansion of the firebox; 10 - a gap in the hearth; 11 - "faience"; 12 - cast iron plate; 13 - wire connections; 14 - steel strip; 15 - overtube; 16 - adobe; 17 - holes in the arch; 18 - collection channel; 19 - changing the shape of the collection channel; 20 - ventilation channel; 21 - combined channel; 22 - steel strips

9th row. The laying is carried out so that the horizontal channel from the large firebox narrows, and the partition becomes wider. This is necessary so that you can easily cover the heating chamber with the first row of brickwork to form the hearth of the cooking chamber.

10th row. From this row, laying out the first row of the hearth begins, leaving a gap 10 at the rear wall of the cooking chamber with a width of at least 70 mm, a length of approximately 630 mm, i.e., for the entire width of the cooking chamber (sections B-B and G-D).

11th row. The second row of the hearth is laid, leaving a gap 10. The thickness of the hearth reaches 140 mm (two rows of brickwork). The doors of the fireboxes are covered with bricks, forming one horizontal channel. The brickwork on the front side of the furnace is fixed along the hearth with angle steel - they put "faience" 11.

12th row. The horizontal channel formed by two fireboxes is covered with cast-iron stove 12. If there is a large burner in the stove, then it should be above the large firebox.

The 13th and 14th rows are laid according to the order.

15th row. The side walls are laid and fastened with wire or strip steel ties 13 using washers and nuts. For ease of execution, the forehead is made rectangular in shape and overlapped on top with a steel strip 14 40 wide, 10 thick, 850 mm long. If the forehead is arched, the steel strip is not used. The walls of the cooking chamber are laid brick-thick, with a lower part beveled into a cone (sections B-B and C-C). Such masonry is performed on three sides of the cooking chamber (from two side and back).

16th row. First, masonry is performed with overlapping of the forehead, then the ties are laid across the width of the furnace, fastening them with nuts and washers. The walls of the cooking chamber on three sides are brick-thick, but without squeezing into a cone (sections B-B and C-C).

17th row. They perform brickwork, put the second row of ties along the side walls (exactly the same as in the 15th row). After that, from the strip steel from the front and side sides, a base for the overtube 15 is arranged, which is supported in the corner by a stand - a round steel rod with a diameter of 1.6-1.8 mm or a pipe. The rack is firmly tied at the bottom and top with steel strips and angle steel. Steel strips are not placed directly on the brick, but nests of the desired width, height (depth) and length are pre-selected in it. The dimensions of the nests must be at least 50-70 mm (100 mm is possible).

18th row. From this row, the laying of the cooking chamber begins in the form of a flat arch. Heels at the brick side walls for laying the vault do not. The first bricks of the vault rest on the released bricks of the 16th row, they should have an inward slope. Therefore, under these bricks from the outside, they place pieces of brick on a clay mortar, clay-bit or clay concrete - clay with brick rubble (section B-B). In this row, the hearth is blocked and steel strips are placed to form an overtube. When laying out the arch at the front wall of the cooking chamber, four holes 17 with a size of 70 x 120 mm are left in this arch. (In general, they form a channel measuring 120 x 280 mm.) Through these holes, hot gases first enter the collection channel, and from it into the pipe.

19th row. The completed vault with four holes of 17 indicated sizes is shown. It can be seen that hot gases do not come out of the brow in a re-pipe, as happens in a Russian stove.

20th row. The walls of the furnace are laid out above the level of the arch in two rows and the stoves are arranged. A prefabricated channel 18 is made above the four holes. The overtube hole narrows to 180-200 mm (in the previous row its width is 250 mm). The wall between the overtube and the collection channel is fastened with a lock (on the right side of the furnace).

21st row. The collecting duct 19 is shaped like a balalaika to bring hot gases to the chimney. A ventilation channel 20 with a size of 70 x 250 mm is laid in the overtube.

22nd row. The dimensions of the collection channel 19 are reduced, and the brick from its front side is cut into a cone to facilitate the movement of gases from the channel into the pipe. The ventilation duct 20 is expanded to a size of 120 x 190 mm.

23rd row. The shape of the collection channel remains unchanged. The ventilation channel 20 takes the form of a square.

The 24th row is similar to the previous one. The collection channel remains the same size (without changing the shape). A valve 8 with a size of 130 x 140 mm is placed above the ventilation duct.

25th row. Laying is carried out according to the order. The smoke channel changes its shape. The ventilation duct remains unchanged.

26th row. The smoke channel takes a rectangular shape, the dimensions of the sides are 130 X 260 mm (one brick). The dimensions of the ventilation duct do not change.

27th row. A valve 9 with a size of 130 x 250 mm is placed above the smoke channel (see general view, front view and sections).

28th row. Combine two vertical channels into one horizontal 21, L-shaped (to remove air from the ventilation duct into the pipe above the smoke damper).

The 29th row is similar to the previous one. The shape of the channel remains unchanged. To block the ventilation duct, two steel strips 22 are laid above it, on which the bricks will rest in the next row. Thus, the ventilation duct will communicate with the chimney.

30th row. Under the bricks laid on the steel strips, a 130 x 130 mm hole is formed. After that, only one Smoke channel with a size of 130 x 260 mm remains.

31st and 32nd rows. Arrange a ceiling of two rows of masonry. The laying of the rows is similar, the only difference is in the dressing of the seams. The ventilation duct at the top remains blocked by three rows of brickwork (210 mm), which complies with fire safety requirements.

33rd and 34th rows. They lay the pipe in the so-called "pyaterik", that is, in one brick. The size of the pipe channel is 130 x 260 mm. The ligation of the seams is strictly observed. The pipe is laid up to the level of the ceiling. When passing through the overlap, fluffing is performed.

A variant of the "Housekeeper" stove with a water-heating box (Fig. 186). In this option, only eight rows of masonry are considered. The remaining rows are performed according to the first option.

186. Masonry stove "Housekeeper" with a hot water box
1 - cleaning; 2 - hot water box; 3 - channel near the hot water box; 4 - partitions; 5 - grate; 6 - steel strip

The hot water box can be inserted in two ways. In the first case, it is directly smeared or placed in the furnace masonry, in the second, a case is made of thicker steel of such a size that a hot-water box can be easily inserted there. At the same time, the hot water box lasts much longer, it is convenient to remove it for cleaning and repair. If you take out the hot-water box, then when the stove is fired, the room is heated due to the release of heat by the case, which, quickly heating up, is like a steel temporary stove. The lid of the hot water box must be tightly closed to prevent steam from escaping into the room.

The 1st row is laid in exactly the same way as in the first option; 2nd row - according to the order. Lay a blower for a large firebox and cleaning.

3rd row is performed as shown in order. First, they put a door in the blower on the 2nd row of masonry for a large firebox, leave a hole for the blower of a small firebox. The laying of the 4th row is carried out as shown, with the installation of a door in the blower *) for a small firebox.

The 5th row is performed according to the order. The blower door under the large firebox is covered with bricks, and the hole above the blower is narrowed. On the right side of the furnace, near the small firebox, a hot-water box 2 or a case for it is installed. On the left side of the box or case, channel 3 is left measuring 70 x 210 mm. With this channel, the hot water box or case for it will be heated from the other side or from the side. In this row, hot gases will heat the box not only from the side, but also from the bottom. A partition 4 is laid along the laid out columns, which divides the heating chamber into two sections.

In the 6th row, the door of the blower of the small firebox is blocked with a brick. The grate 5 is laid over the blowers. Channel 3 remains the same size. Then a barrier is placed.

In the 7th row they put the door of a large firebox. The channel remains unchanged. Laying is done in order.

In the 8th row, brickwork is first performed. Channel 3 is blocked so that the brick hangs over it. The brick is laid flush with the side of the box or case, while between the brick and the top of the box or case a 70 mm high fold is left through which hot gases will heat the top of the box or case. In order to have a hole or a channel between the top of the box or the case, a steel strip 6 is laid on the completed brickwork, on which a brick is laid in the 9th row.

In the 9th row above the case or hot water box, along the laid steel strip, brickwork is performed - overlapping. The partition is made wider, as it is necessary for laying the first row of the hearth. In practice, this is the same row as in the first variant. Further laying is carried out as in the first variant.

The largest oven in the world with its appearance and internal structure presents a 4 times enlarged model of the Russian Stove - a collective image that allows you to visit the inside of the furnace and study its internal structure. Its height is 11 m, the perimeter is 6x9 m.

Despite the fact that Russian stoves in different places differed in an unusual variety of forms, their basis was a single principle of construction. The concept of a stove includes not only a building for heating and cooking, made of bricks or beaten from clay, but also an ensemble of various partitions, shelves, benches, golbts, side benches and ladders.

The Museum of the Russian stove was opened in December 2007 in the Moscow region. A gigantic pseudo-oven, which is actually a museum, was erected in the Russian sector of the ethnic village Etnomir - next to wooden Russian huts and a modest monument to the Little Prince (he, it seems, did not understand how he found himself in such an unexpected environment).

The first floor is a "podpeche" (a space for storing stove utensils). Here is a varied exposition of various rustic culinary devices.

Having risen to the second floor, we find ourselves on the "pole" - a flat area in front of the "crucible" of the furnace, above which the pipe is located. Having passed the rectangular entrance ("mouth"), we found ourselves in the very heart of the furnace - the vaulted "crucible" (cooking chamber). The lights go out, the video projector turns on, and a fire is lit on the brickwork of the furnace. A fascinating sight: visitors to the museum are in the crucible of a vaulted furnace. When the light turns on again, you can see the only exhibit on the second floor - a tiled stove, such as they put in wealthy Russian houses.

The third floor is a bed. Emelya's favorite resting place in this case has been turned into an observation deck, from which almost the entire Ethnomir is visible.

The whole life of the Slavic people is inextricably linked with the Russian stove. The oven was used for cooking food, baking bread and pies, drying grain, fish, berries, vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, medicinal herbs and roots. She treated all colds, successfully replaced a steam bath, and played the role of a home weather station. The Russian stove contributed to the emergence and development of many folk crafts. The Russian stove had a significant impact on the traditions and rituals of the Russian people.

Russian stove

Around the "furnace" - ten Russian huts. Volga, Arkhangelsk, Siberian, Kuban - each imitates (and not always accurately) wooden buildings certain region of Russia.

The furnace building is the largest Russian furnace in the world, the size of a three-story house. Only in ETNOMIR you will be able to visit inside the stove and find out how it works.

The excursion “The stove feeds, warms, heals” is one of the most important tours in the cycle of the Russian Stove Museum. A stove for a Russian person is much more than just a means of heating and cooking. It is a symbol of the family hearth, the soul of the house, the source of life. These are childhood memories, because many of today's adults grew up next to the stove, and everyone, without exception, listened to Russian fairy tales, in which the stove is one of the heroines.

The Russian stove is mentioned in epics, proverbs and sayings, many folk rituals are associated with it. The image of the Russian stove is known all over the world and is one of the most recognizable symbols of Russian culture and the Russian people.

Look at a real Russian oven! This is a colorful, original, multifunctional building, each part of which, each bend, each superstructure has its own function, which is very important for a Russian person.

Embark on a journey through the huge Russian oven and find out why it has maintained its importance over the centuries. Learn about the pagan beliefs associated with the oven and the oven's unique position "on the borderline" of Christendom and the world of popular superstition.

Get acquainted with the most unusual and interesting signs associated with the oven and the “furnace inhabitant” - the brownie. Find out why the brownie was offered bast shoes when moving, and why the Russian people treat chimneys “with caution”.

The main components of the unit:

Description of Russian stoves "in black"

In more ancient times, people built heating units from clay and without a pipe - smoking devices, so named because of their "smoking" on a small fire. In such equipment, strong ignition was not allowed in order to prevent the occurrence of a fire. The smoke was led out through the porch above the entrance doors, but at the same time cold air from the street entered the house, which led to a significant loss of heat and inefficient operation of the furnace.

Soon the fire risk problem returned. The new chimney increased draft, but at the same time increased the amount of hot air emitted with sparks.

In order to increase efficiency and eliminate the risk of fire, the chimney began to be curved and started up in the casing with revolutions. Thus, hot smoke, moving in zigzags through the furnace, gave off heat to the bricks, while the sparks also went out. At the end of their journey, the combustion products passed through a special horizontal section pipes, from which they fell outside already cooled down.

Another difference between "white" stoves and "black" stoves is the foundation. The first type of device weighs 2-3 times more than its predecessor, so a strong foundation was built so that the floor could withstand and not fail.

"White" stoves, although they were perfect, were used for a long time only in the homes of boyars, princes and wealthy gentlemen. The reason for this was the high cost of bricks: ordinary villagers could not afford the luxury of acquiring this material and continued to use old-style stoves. Some found an alternative in the construction of such a unit from unbaked bricks - raw, and burned ones were used on the bottom and roof of the furnace.

The design of the heating unit "in white" turned out to be so perfect that it has not changed to this day. Separately, only some parts were modernized, simplifying work and improving the appearance of the equipment.

Location of the Russian oven

Heating devices in the room, as a rule, were located against the wall, in the corner or from the side of the veranda and were used to heat one or several rooms at once.

When located in the corner of the room, the stove was directed by the mouth to the partition, parallel to the entrance and illuminated by the side window.

In houses with 5 walls or a cut, the units were built in such a way that either all rooms or several of them were heated.

Types of Russian stoves

Such a unit can be re-equipped or built according to any wishes of the customer.

Main types:

classical(read) - a standard version of a heating device with a stove bench.
(read) - a more advanced and convenient model of the unit: in the summer it performs the function of cooking, and in the winter - heating.
Russian mini oven(read ). Another name for this design without a couch is “housekeeper”. The device is intended for cooking.
Russian heating unit withkaminom(read ). The combination of a modern open hearth and the capabilities of a stove is both beautiful and convenient.

Advantages and disadvantages

Disadvantages of using such equipment:

Advantages of a modern heating unit:

On the stove they got rid of colds, warmed up a cold back. They were treated not only with heat, but also with stove ash mixed with salt.

How to buy a Russian stove

Such a unit can be made to order or built independently.

There are special organizations that are engaged in the manufacture heating devices taking into account the wishes of the customer. The price of a Russian stove varies depending on the size, appearance, heated area, the planned amount of food to be cooked, and the material used.

If you still decide to build a Russian stove yourself, this can be done using step by step instructions described in other articles on our site. Choose the type of Russian stove by function and appearance, study the stages of masonry, stock up necessary materials, tools for the job and get down to business.

The Russian stove is the owner of a huge number of shapes and designs. Even when it was the only heating unit in the villages, in every house, and even more so in every village, there were modified changes to the classical design. There is not enough time or space on the page of our site to talk about all types and models. Therefore, we will deal with one model, which for many will seem classic - this is a Russian stove with a stove bench.

Surprisingly, such a furnace never went out. She stood quietly in a corner, not attracting special attention in the era of industrialization, gasification and electrification. She stood and waited in the wings, although scientists, heating engineers all the time watched and studied her. After all, a real Russian stove is a heating unit with a lot of excellent qualities. So, the time has come, and the Russian brick oven is now experiencing a rebirth. Why is this happening?

First, the construction boom in private housing construction.
Secondly, the excellent characteristics of the unit: omnivorous, economical, efficient, the ability to build without involving a stove-maker from outside. We add that for the construction of the stove, publicly available and not very expensive building materials are used.

The design of the Russian stove

Device and principle of operation

The device of the Russian stove is clearly visible in the figure above. From the diagram it becomes clear that the unit is installed on the foundation. It can be made of wood, brick, concrete, stone and so on. It is important here that the foundation be reliable, because the stove is built of brick - one of the heaviest building materials. By the way, the foundation is called guardianship.

Next comes the baked goods. This is a kind of fuel storage, usually it is firewood, which dries well in it and becomes well combustible. It was not in vain that they said that we dry it to “gunpowder”. Such wood fuel quickly flared up, so they tried to hammer the stoves to the stop.

Above is a vault-trough. They fell asleep on him thermal insulation material. It could be sand or brick chips mixed with clay mortar. But already on the bedding laid out under the hob. By the way, the masonry was carried out without mortar, so to speak, dry. Then the vault of the firebox is removed, on top of which a stove bench and a chimney are built.

Design secrets

Immediately make a reservation that a large Russian stove with a stove bench is a batch unit. It is heated to a certain temperature, the device absorbs the necessary amount of thermal energy, then for a whole day it gives off heat both for heating and for making culinary masterpieces (bread, buns, bagels, etc.). Why is this happening, what is the secret of this device? To understand all this, you need to walk through the entire structure following the air that is heated in the furnace.

Again, we draw your attention to the figure above. It all starts in a rut. Its design is quite complex, this includes: pommel, overtube, hailo (this is a tapering nozzle). There are special niches for ash pans at the very bottom of the cuffs on the sides. Ashes and coals are stored here, which are used for the next kindling.

We have already talked about the variety of models of the Russian stove, so I would like to dwell on the ash pans in more detail. There are two main options here:

A niche for ash is made in the hearth. This is a stove that protrudes from the stove. It can be stone or cast iron. By the way, such a niche is called an eyeglass.
A niche may or may not be done. The coals were simply raked into a special nook. This model was used in mansion stoves to improve cleanliness, and in poor huts to save on the construction of the heating unit itself.

Returning to the blower, we can say that this is, in fact, an economizer, where the air entering the furnace zone is heated with the help of flue gases. But it does not use oxygen.

Attention! To brick installation didn’t “eat” a lot of firewood so that it didn’t cool down quickly, it was necessary to strictly adhere to the size of the Russian stove. These indicators are accurately calculated according to the model you choose. It is very important that the walls of the hailo are smooth, they cannot be plastered, therefore the laid brick is hewn and polished by hand.

Why is it necessary to do this? The thing is that in non-smooth structures, air turbulence occurs, that is, turbulence. And this affects the amount of oxygen in it. And you yourself understand that oxygen-depleted air has a bad effect on fuel combustion processes.

Unusual variety

Now the firebox is the heart of the unit. If you are faced with the question of how to make a Russian stove, then know that, knowing the process of arranging the furnace, you will surely cope with all other parts of the structure without problems.

But again, we return to the size of the Russian stove with a stove bench. This is what interests us here in the first place. There is a fairly large size range, which depends on the power of the unit itself. But all these figures are approximate. Why? Firstly, when measuring, the arshin was used, not the meter. Secondly, the arshin indicator in different regions had its own numerical designation. Therefore, the stove-makers used the arshin in conversation, and in practice they counted the rows of laid bricks. In addition, the number of bricks laid in one row was always an integer, taking into account the mortar joints.

Note! Under the furnace and its vault are made inclined to the hearth window. The slope can be quite large - up to 9 cm.

Vaulting

Engineers conducted tests, which revealed that two air streams operate under the arch of the stove. They operate in any mode of operation of the device, plus they circulate in different directions.

Most likely, they compensate each other, which is why there are no turbulences in the furnace.
Their second purpose is to delay in the combustion zone those fuel particles that have not burned out to the end. These particles, before flying out to the mouth, repeatedly rotate through the furnace, burning to the end. In this case, a sufficiently intense radiation of infrared rays is released, which heats the dishes with food.
No eddies were found in the middle of the furnace height.

What actually happens in the oven when food is cooked in it? No contact with fire, optimization temperature regime, the complete absence of the pyrolysis process, and, therefore, the absolute absence of carcinogens and toxins. Here is the serious secret of the device of the Russian stove with a stove bench.

By the way, with regard to IR radiation. This is also the secret of the Russian stove. Those housewives who know how to cook in this appliance understand all the subtleties of Russian cuisine. Here it is important to accurately catch the decrease in temperature inside the furnace, which decreases from +350°C to +150°C. That is why periodically you have to work with a fork, moving the dishes inward.

Podpechek

And once again we return to the oppression. Let's just summarize all of the above. It turns out that not only air is heated here, but heat energy is distributed here. Part of it goes to cooking, while the bulk of it is spent on heating the stove itself, which heats the room. Only a tiny fraction of it goes down the chimney. Since there are no temperature jumps in the entire volume, and everything that can burn burns out to the end, then, accordingly, the Russian stove emits very little soot. Again, a plus. What does this give besides the purity of the device itself:

First, there is no possibility of soot ignition.
Secondly, there is no need to frequently clean the chimney itself. Once every ten years is enough.

And the last on the results of the design. Simplicity internal device, where there are neither complex partitions, nor niches, nor nooks and crannies, creates conditions for the formation of a complex smoke flow, which is several times better in its efficiency than any modern type labyrinth flow, which is formed in modern heating units. Therefore, the masters say with regret that the name of the master who first built this type of stove has not remained in history.

There is something else I would like to point out. Prototypes of the Russian stove appeared on the market, the so-called mini installations. They are light, mobile, fit in the trunk of a car. Their appearance was made possible thanks to latest materials and technologies. But what is surprising is that domestic manufacturers cannot boast of producing these mini-stoves. Foreign companies became interested in them, which have already flooded the markets of their own and neighboring countries with these models. Below is a photograph showing such a Russian mini-oven. Only it is made in Italy.

Russian mini oven

Advantages and disadvantages

No matter how much you praise the Russian heating unit, there are still several disadvantages among the huge number of advantages. So let's take a look at both.

Advantages

Economic factor in terms of the construction of the stove. Available and inexpensive materials: refractory brick and clay-based mortar.
Not the lowest efficiency. In the simplest design, this figure is 60%, in modified ones up to 85%.
The Russian stove works on any solid fuel without reducing technical characteristics.
High functionality. This is both heating and hob and the opportunity to sleep on a couch.
Ease of maintenance. Here you can say this - in the morning I heated the stove, and its heat lasts until the next morning.
ABOUT healing properties The Russian stove is legendary. Recall that in such a device, food is practically not fried, nor boiled, but languishing. Sleeping on a sunbed is a pleasure. Just 6 hours is enough, you wake up refreshed and well-rested.
Safety. Everything is excellent here. The fire burns in the depths, coal simply cannot fall out. The stove gives out sparks only with intensive heating, when it is already very below zero on the street. And if your oven has a three-center vault, then sparks are nonsense in such a design.

Ready vault

Flaws

The Russian stove can only run on slow-burning fuels, which include wood, coal and peat. Gas and liquid species cannot be used here, because a constant lack of oxygen appears in the furnace itself.
During the combustion of fuel, ash is formed, which must be constantly cleaned out.
This is a heavy brick structure, so its weight greatly affects the floors. And this suggests that in multi-storey construction, a Russian stove can only be assembled on the ground floor, arranging a separate foundation for it.
Unfortunately, the dimensions of the unit are too large, so the oven takes up too much space in the room.
Not very high heat output. On average, one such stove will heat rooms of 45 m². In fact, like a water heating radiator installed under a window opening.
It takes too long to warm up. Those who know a lot about Russian stoves assure that after summer standing, the device must be heated for the whole day. The fuel consumption is too high.
It is impossible to automate the processes occurring inside. Many have tried, nothing works.
If you decide to build a stove bench with your own hands, then you will need the advice of experienced stove-makers. Practice shows that flaws in the construction process can cause smoke in the room.

It's good to rest on the couch

We build a Russian stove with our own hands

What can be said about this issue. Everything related to brick stoves rests on order. What it is?

Let's start with the fact that the oven is laid in horizontal rows made of bricks. So there are certain rules on how to lay bricks in one or another row. These rules are the order of the Russian stove. Some believe that the order is the stacked rows of brickwork, which is fundamentally wrong. This term comes from the word order, not row.

It is clear that in each model of the Russian stove, their own orders are acceptable. And if the old varieties are already almost forgotten, then modern models must be accompanied by drawings and diagrams. Therefore, we warn you - if something is not clear to you in the order of the stove with a stove bench, then you should not proceed with the construction heating installation. First, you will get confused and tormented. Secondly, you will waste a large number of building materials, which will probably have to be bought in addition.

I would like to continue the conversation in this article on a major note. Like - let's take a look at the masonry of the Russian stove with our own hands. And tell how everything is done from "A" to "Z". Unfortunately, it is very difficult to put it into words. If you don’t see it purely visually, if the master teacher doesn’t show how, what and where to put it, it will not be easy to build a Russian stove. Therefore, we offer a diagram in the figure.

So, do-it-yourself scheme for laying a Russian stove.

Ordering a Russian stove

As you can see, the process is quite complicated. Too many different nuances House master you just have to know:

Brick on a waterproofed foundation is laid dry, without mortar. This applies to the first row of bricks.
In the first three rows, a widened inter-brick joint is used. It should be about 13mm wide. In subsequent rows, the seam narrows to 5 mm. Thus, a ledge is obtained in order.
The first three rows are necessarily checked by the diagonal rule.
In the dictionary of stove-makers there are two concepts of brick: spoon and poke. So the first is laid along the long side, and the second is perpendicular. At the same time, the bricks themselves can be laid flat, sideways or on the butt, that is, on the butt.
When erecting vaults, you will have to use formwork. It can be removed only after the masonry has completely dried.
Remember that the vault is assembled only with tied sutures.

Scheme of how the Russian stove works