Installing legs on a kitchen table. How to make a table with your own hands. Table manufacturing technology

In the kitchen, the bulk of the entire workspace is occupied by floor cabinets. They are intended for storing dishes, food and other utensils. They are built into household appliances such as: dishwashers, ovens, stoves, etc. And of course most of base cabinet plays the role work surface. All these requirements for the headset require its reliability and convenience, and adjustable legs for cabinets can help with this. What are they, what are their advantages and how to install them correctly? Let's look at it in order.

Legs for kitchen base cabinets

When purchasing a ready-made kitchen set or a custom-made one, the first thing you should pay attention to is its base. The most common options for its design are kitchen plinths or legs. Less commonly, lower cabinets are attached to the side wall, creating the effect of furniture floating in the air.

Adjustable legs for kitchen

The main requirements for a kitchen base are:

1. Strength endurance. The foundation is the support for everything. He has to withstand the weight of not only the furniture itself, but also all the utensils that are stored inside it. And sometimes the weight of a person during force loads that arise during the process of cooking at the cutting table.
2. The second function that the base must perform concerns the appearance of the product. It should not get out of general design throughout the kitchen, and harmoniously match it.

The video shows adjustable legs for the kitchen:

Now, taking into account the main requirements, let's consider the options for the basis for a kitchen set.

A variety of furniture fittings largely determine the practicality and functionality of an interior item, and also influence its external aesthetics. We invite you to find out what furniture legs should be like so that they last as long as possible, and the room itself acquires an attractive, luxurious look.

Furniture legs and supports, as in the photo, are a type of furniture fittings for different purposes, shapes, and colors. Often such components are made in the same style and color as the piece of furniture itself, therefore they are harmoniously combined with it and complement it with their beauty. However, you should not think that they perform a purely decorative function. Such products are characterized by a high functional load, therefore they are indispensable in the manufacture of cabinets, cabinets, chests of drawers, and so on:

• First, let's note the support function - thanks to the presence of such structural elements The cabinets stand firmly on the base, do not wobble or warp. Many furniture legs are equipped with the ability to adjust their height and slope. This property of sliding models allows you to securely install the cabinet even on an uneven floor. This fact is the fundamental basis for comfortable, safe use piece of furniture;
• the protective function is no less important furniture fittings leg. Table legs protect the bottom of the structure from scratches, chips and other types of damage. The better the product is made, the more effectively it copes with the protective function;
• In addition, the legs of the bedside tables provide the user with high comfort when using the piece of furniture.

Telescopic models have the ability to choose the height of furniture installation, which allows a person to choose the optimal height in terms of ergonomics and personal comfort.

Kinds

Absolutely all types of furniture legs that exist today allow you to establish interaction between the structure and other objects in the room. Such small-sized elements make the design complete, giving the space laconicism and comfort. Without the most ordinary leg, it is difficult to imagine a comfortable residential building today. Such fastening devices can give furniture stability, a luxurious, stylish look. But what kind similar products prefer? Let us characterize the main ones below:

• regular stands without the function of adjusting their height are available at an affordable price. Often, such legs have a laconic design without any special decorative elements;
• legs with the ability to adjust the height of the furniture. Combine aesthetic appeal and high functionality;
• decorative legs are used to decorate a piece of furniture, as designers give them their own original look. Curly supports can have a non-standard shape, an attractive coating, and various types of decorations. For example, carved furniture legs act as an independent element of room design.

Manufacturing materials

Today you can see a huge variety: smooth, bent leg for furniture, with or without the ability to change height. But first of all, it is important to pay attention to the material of the product:

• metal - look very attractive, strong, durable, made according to drawings from metals such as chrome, aluminum. Chrome is heavier than aluminum, but also stronger. Owners prefer chrome modern interiors for whom the durability and strength of furniture is important. Chrome legs are perfect for high-tech interiors where a lot of glass and metal are used. Most original form for a metal support - a wheel. Wheels can be used for furniture of very original design;
• made of solid wood ideal for wooden furniture. If durable wood is used to make a product, it will last a long time and will look luxurious and expensive. To give strength to cheap types of wood, a metal support is used;
• plastic supports do not look very attractive, but have a wide range of sizes and high functionality.

The plastic leg is optimally used for kitchen furniture or a headset in the country.

Nuances of choice

When choosing supports, it is important to pay attention to the following points.

Video

A table is a necessary attribute of kitchen furniture. Today, manufacturers use a lot of materials to produce tables. There is a great variety of table leg shapes; there are more than twenty of them. The traditional version has four legs. In most cases, standard models have a square or rectangular tabletop shape.

Wood dinner table rectangular with four legs

A table with three legs is usually round. It can be used as a small coffee table or as a dining area.

Round kitchen table made of wood with three legs

They also produce tables with two legs, they can be various types, but the most common models are those with two X-shaped legs or durable ones made of solid wood.

Wooden table with X-shaped legs complete with chairs for a summer cottage

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the tabletop is, in turn, attached to them

Many craftsmen know that improperly secured legs are the root cause of the table swaying and tilting. There are adjustable mounts that can correct a large percentage of tilt, but quality assembly is paramount.

There are several options for attaching legs to tabletops:

Attaching the leg with surface plates

Attaching the Legs with T-Nuts

An option for attaching the table top to the table frames without using additional fittings using screws

Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to secure a tabletop.

Using homemade wooden clamps is a simple and reliable way to attach a tabletop to a tabletop without purchased fittings

Steel figure-eight fasteners - an option using inexpensive fittings

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side frames of the headset.

Necessary materials

The materials that are used to make tables are very different; we will tell you about some of them.

1. Arrays are suitable for this different breeds wood, for example, conifers, oak, etc. If you are a beginner, it is better to use pine, as it is easy to process. It should be remembered that such furniture fades, absorbs odors and liquids, and does not tolerate temperature changes well. On the plus side, the material is environmentally friendly, durable, and looks elegant.

   

   Solid pine for making a table with your own hands

2. Chipboard is a fairly popular material for furniture production. Dry wood chips and resins are used in production. Among the disadvantages, environmental risks can be noted. The advantage is a relatively cheap price.

   

   Chipboard is an inexpensive material option for making a dining table

3. MDF is more environmentally friendly compared to chipboard, but also more expensive. Wood chips, carbide resins, and modified melamine are used in production. Disadvantage - it ignites freely, there is a possible risk of fire even from rapidly heating objects.

   

   MDF is suitable for making a table, it is of higher quality and environmentally friendly

4. Furniture board is the exact opposite of MDF and chipboard. Acceptable price equivalent, the material is durable and environmentally friendly. They are made from glued bars, tightened with a press.

   

   Furniture board - square or rectangular sheets of wood, which are made by gluing together wooden blocks along the width or length

5. Metal – in most cases, stainless steel is used. Such a thing will be expensive, but such a table will attract attention.

   

   Products from of stainless steel low maintenance, durable, practical, universal in use

These materials are suitable for both the tabletop and legs. They also make plastic, chrome-plated, and forged legs. When choosing, rely on your preferences.

Chromed furniture support for tables with side fastening

Coffee table with forged legs

White round plastic outdoor table

Required Tools

The necessary set of tools for making and assembling a table

For manufacturing, the following tools are needed: plane, grinding machine, jigsaw, saw, drill, drill bits, sandpaper, screwdriver, screws, glue, dowels, clamps, tape measure, pencil, protective equipment - glasses, gloves.

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

Drawing of a wooden table with four legs

First, you must make a drawing. Decide which legs you will attach - purchased ones or make them yourself. The form can be any.

Curly balusters or legs for a homemade table

If the tabletop is 0.8 m wide, then the legs should be 1.2 m long. To ensure the tabletop is smooth, treat it grinder. There should be no gaps between the joints. To prevent the tabletop from becoming deformed high humidity, the boards must be laid with a counter texture.

Tabletop boards at least 30cm thick

At the ends of the boards to be joined, you need to drill holes 8 cm deep, keeping the gap between them at 10-15 cm. We go through the prepared areas with sandpaper and lubricate the edges, dowels and holes with glue. We insert the dowels into the holes, thus connecting the tabletop. Remove excess glue.

Option for attaching legs to a wooden table

Using glue and screws, we connect the transverse and longitudinal boards to the legs. On top of the latter we make two recesses to attach the tabletop. We wait twelve hours and install it. We cover the structure with varnish, stain or paint.

Table with fixed top, frame and legs

Important! When using stain, consider the following: choose the thinner wisely, the surface before coating must be carefully sanded, the main thing is to properly adjust the gun (the shape of the torch should be oval, and the layer you apply should cover the existing one by half).

Cover with varnish or wax to protect the top layer

Having familiarized yourself with the options for attaching legs to the tabletop, it will not be difficult for you to make a table with your own hands, thereby updating the interior with such an original thing.

Video: Solid wood table top. My mounting option

A table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious, comfortable table for the country house or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, it will be possible over time to take on exclusive tables, the rest of the poses. right there.

This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but fine work woodworking requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a separate living rooms production room: Woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means tinting and protecting wood, like stains, emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.

An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you attract help from modern achievements, on the right there:

• Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; is there some more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
• It is also preferable to rent at first manual frezer on wood, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.

In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines circular saw, jointing, wood turning machines and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn the table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:

The breeds are listed in order of availability. e.g. timber harvesting horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper are not cultivated at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan trees - for weapon stocks; full-fledged plastic replacement they don't have one yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.

Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness; the most delicate carvings on walnut do not chip. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on legs pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, they turn out to be layers of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like such wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.

Wooden pot

Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; in other conifers and many hardwood she is there too. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for furniture front panels: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects acrylic varnishes water based; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tacky before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production This is acceptable for yourself.

Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.

First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the mixing rules oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine one, on the left in the figure. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the table top can be made longer.

Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the most hard rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, e.g. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for tables industrial production fastened with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also demand least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach legs with a round head and any legs in general, but you need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.

Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to fit into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly secured legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.

Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

Tabletop

The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m thick 20-60 mm with decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.

Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; They will gladly cut your tabletop to size for you at an affordable price if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end PVC edging(edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profiles, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
• The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the edging ridge must be selected manually disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
• Before installing the edging, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the edge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; The rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.

Countertops are often assembled without rims on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic film. It will not be possible to assemble a good board panel on the plaza: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling it. But stacked tabletops from fragments are obtained in in capable hands simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.

Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.

Underframe

Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.

Without frame

Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: the load-bearing frame is prefabricated; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.

... and we find ourselves in the kitchen

Exactly. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. Aesthetic appearance very desirable, but not decisive: suddenly you messed up the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of laminated chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.

If you're not too lazy to put your hands to it, steel legs you can do it yourself. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin, the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.

In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. Rustic style kitchen table plans. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it has no single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best the best option: due to availability sharp corners without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, it is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) when tied, but even a child will break it twig by twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.

Note: The idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in the figure; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. above right - small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - business card. Its feature is minimum quantity connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut tree stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (two-hundred-piece board) or laminated chipboard.

Let's go further: to the living room

Table in main room at home should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By lifting the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and when fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.

For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. It's basically 2 small round ones. folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And when you turn it around, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or intimate gatherings with friends.

All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although a lot depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.

How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. on right. To make it yourself, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; V as a last resort replace. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be “brought to fruition,” but a spring table almost always does. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.

The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving apart/sliding the halves of the tabletop, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at first.

In addition

You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure the possibility of refinishing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rather rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.

Video: master class on wood glazing

It would seem that such a simple question as fastening a tabletop with the modern abundance of building materials should not cause difficulties. But it is the huge number of options that makes you think about the best way. It’s also good when you just need to lay the work surface on the frame of the furniture module and provide it with only additional support. But cantilever mounting to the wall requires a more serious and balanced approach. Below we will look at both options, but for now it’s worth deciding in which cases you will have to attach the work surface at all.

When is additional fixation necessary?

The countertop in the kitchen sometimes takes on very significant loads. When cutting products, it only requires sufficient area and Smooth surface. But often we also load the table with small household appliances. Microwave, oven, portable Dishwasher, coffee maker, minibar - all these items in the kitchen often “settle” on the table, and here you will need to secure it well.

You should not discount the neat appearance of the kitchen - an unfixed countertop can sometimes move, forming a noticeable gap in contact with the wall. Not only does this spoil the picture a little, but also food particles will accumulate there. It is useless to attach a decorative plinth to such a moving surface. And if the design of the set is such that the tabletop has freely hanging ends, instead of a reliable working surface you become the owner of an analogue of a children's swing. So it’s better to attach the top plate even on the cabinets to the wall so that it doesn’t “play.”

Sometimes the only way to increase the functionality of a small kitchen is to make additional surfaces with your own hands where you can place equipment or process food. You cannot provide support for such tabletops from below, but fixing them on the wall is quite possible. And of course, you can’t do without this if built-in equipment is hidden under the working surface - cooling chamber or washing machine.

Methods of fastening tabletops

The choice of fixing the table against the wall depends not only on the loads, but also on the material of the working surface. Of course, the easiest way to deal with laminated chipboard, MDF and wood - for such elements the headset does not require professional tools, as is the case with heavy agglomerate or natural stone. For a metal tabletop, you also don’t need any special skills or equipment - just choose the right type of fastening and be careful when installing.

For now, let's prepare the main tool:

• The level is better than a regular carpenter's spirit level.
• A powerful electric drill or hammer drill if the walls are reinforced concrete, plus a set of appropriate drills.
• A screwdriver (sometimes you can get by with a Phillips screwdriver).
• Punch and hammer.

Mounting on brackets

This is the most common method of installing a work surface, when the load on the walls is transferred through a special profile. For a standard tabletop, a single bracket with a height of about 350 mm with a shoulder of 500 mm is suitable. You can take a couple of corner supports, but not so powerful, but it is better to preserve the length of the shoulder.

The longer the tabletop, the more brackets will need to be attached to compensate for its bending under load.

Work order:

1. Determine the installation location of the bracket so that it does not interfere with the furniture and appliances located below, but supports the tabletop at the desired height.
2. Make a mark on the wall and use a level to lower a perpendicular from it - the vertical part of the bracket is attached to this marking.
3. Attach the part to the resulting axis, mark the points for the screws. If necessary, they can be capped immediately.
4. Drill holes in the wall and hammer dowels into the sockets.

Then everything depends on the features of the countertop. If it's thick chipboard sheet or wooden shield, it is better to attach the arm of the bracket to its reverse side with short self-tapping screws (25 mm) - they should not go through the slab. Thin panels can be glued to liquid nails. Special strength is not needed here; it is enough to ensure the immobility of the surface resting on the bracket. Assembled structure All that remains is to attach it to the wall and fix it with a pair of self-tapping screws - they will loosen the already driven dowels, and you will get a reliable anchor connection.

In a similar way, you can attach a tabletop in a niche, where it will be surrounded by walls on three sides. Here it is better to use short brackets or even replace them with perforated metal corners, but install them also on the sides. Pay attention to the thickness of the steel - in this case, plates of 2.5-3 mm will be optimal.

Beam installation

How independent option This method of attaching the countertop is not worth considering, but if you just need to immobilize it after laying it on the bottom row of cabinets, then it is quite suitable. Often the cabinets are inexpensive kitchen sets have a shallower depth than the included countertops. This allows you to install them in one row along with the sink and stove, maintaining the gaps necessary for other communications. But as a result, the working surface just hanging in the air near the wall itself needs to be attached.

Work order:

1. Place the tabletop on the pedestals that have been pulled together and leveled, mark the line of the top edge on the wall, after which the slab must be removed.
2. Measure the thickness and set the resulting millimeters down from the markings and draw the horizontal line using a level. This is the line that corresponds to the bottom edge of the tabletop, and the beam should be attached along it.
3. Select a sufficiently strong beam, measure the height of its profile to determine the central axis - a third one is drawn under it below the two previous strips.
4. Using the last marking, sockets are made for the dowels, and counter holes are made in the timber.
5. After checking the horizontal position, the beam will remain attached to the wall with anchor bolts, and the tabletop will be laid on it.

Such a support better distributes the load of the working surface, but due to the small width of the contact it cannot be used on its own - only when supporting the tabletop with vertical supports (cabinet walls). It is advisable to impregnate the timber itself with an antiseptic, paint it or varnish it, since it will have to serve in conditions of high humidity. You can use a metal corner, but it is harder to work with, and its super reliability with this method of fastening will remain unclaimed.

Fixed tabletop upon completion finishing works It is worth equipping with a small plinth. It will close the joint near the wall and make cleaning the kitchen much easier. Decorative slats can be made from any material - depending on the design working area. It is better to attach plastic and wooden plinths to self-tapping screws, tiles, metal or fake diamond It is enough to glue it with a transparent sealant.