An electric spray gun works every other time. Spray gun adjustment and testing. Preparing paint for work

For uniform spraying of various paints and varnishes (LKM), primers, liquid fillers, protective compounds and impregnation, painting devices called spray guns are used. This equipment may differ from each other not only in the device, but also in the principle of operation, which affects the quality of the applied coating.

Most often, both in household and in professional field, electric and pneumatic paint sprayers with different arrangement of tanks are used. Also, these devices may have a pressure gauge built into the handle or connected to it.

The electric spray gun consists of a plastic or aluminum housing, which contains the following elements (see the figure below).

Electromagnet. Works in a pulsed mode, pulling the bar.
oscillating bar. It is attracted by a magnet and pushes the piston forward.
Paint regulator. Limits the mobility of the oscillating bar.
Nozzle. Sprays paintwork materials or other compounds.
Cylinder. It is the body of the pump in which the piston moves.
Valve. Opens and closes the paint supply.
suction tube. It is intended for absorption of LKM. A filter can be installed at the end of the tube.
piston spring. After the piston moves forward, it returns it (together with the bar) to its original position.
Piston. Suctions and ejects paintwork from the paint sprayer.

Also on the device there is a power button, a fitting for connecting the tank.

Airbrush worksaccording to the following principle. After pressing the start button, the electromagnet (1) receives current in short pulses. At the same time, the electromagnet either attracts the bar (2), or releases it. The range of movement of the bar, and accordingly the piston, is regulated by a screw (3). The bar, pressing on the piston rod (9), sets it in motion. The reciprocating movements of the piston suck the paint from the tank and push the composition towards the valve (6). When the piston moves forward, the valve opens and passes the paint to the nozzle (4), through which it is sprayed. With the reverse movement of the piston, which is provided by the expanding spring (8), the valve closes and the paintwork is sucked from the tank through the tube (7). Further, the process is repeated.

Important! Electric spray guns also include models with a remote compressor. In this case, the device of the spray gun is slightly different, and the principle of operation of the spray gun is similar to the operation of a pneumatic spray gun.

The tool is powered by compressed air from a compressor. Below is a diagram (in section) on which you can see the design of the device.

The pneumatic spray gun has the following elements in its design (see diagram above).

spray head together with the nozzle (nozzle). The nozzle in the spray gun and the air cap are removable elements. They may have different outlet diameters, which are selected in accordance with the viscosity of the composition intended for spraying.
paint container. It is made of either plastic or metal, and can be installed both at the top of the tool and at the bottom.
Spray gun body. It serves as the basis in which all elements of the device are installed.
Locking screw. Regulates the intensity of the ink supply by limiting or increasing the mobility of the locking needle. Some gun models have an air regulator.
Lever. Designed to comfortably hold the tool in your hand.
Pad. Acts as a seal in the mechanism that moves the needle.
Trigger. Sets the locking needle in motion.
Locking needle. Opens or closes the nozzle opening.

The operation of the pneumatic spray gun is as follows. When the trigger is slightly pressed, the air valve opens, and air begins to flow through a separate channel into the air cap. When the lever is pressed further, the needle moves back, opening the nozzle through which the paint begins to flow. The paint, mixing with the air flow in the air head, is crushed into small particles, forming an aerosol torch.

For convenient operation with a paint sprayer use a special wall holder.

Also widely used by painters stand for spray gun which can be easily made by hand.

The nuances of the design of paint sprayers with different types of tank

Spray gun device with top tank, as well as the principle of its operation, was discussed above. The only thing that needs to be clarified is the way the paintwork is fed into the tool body. Since the ink tank is located at the top of the device, it flows down to the shut-off needle in a natural way, due to the force of attraction.

Spray gun device with bottom tank differs only in the location of the latter. The paint is taken from it due to the rarefaction created by the air flow inside the device. In the future, the operation of the paint sprayer does not differ from the operation of the device with the top location of the tank.

In addition, not so long ago, on the market of equipment for applying coatings, vacuum tanks. They are successfully used instead of standard paint spray tanks. The vacuum tank is a rigid glass-flask with a hole at the bottom, into which a soft glass with a lid is inserted. The flask has a scale on which it is convenient to determine the amount of paint.

The advantage of vacuum tanks is that they allow the spray gun to work in any position. Regardless of whether the device is turned upside down or upside down, the dye still enters the gun due to the vacuum formed in the soft glass. In this case, the glass is deformed, and the paint is squeezed out of it completely.

Setting the parameters of the spray gun before work

If you look at the body of a modern paint sprayer, you can see 2 or 3 adjustment screws. The first regulator can be located either on the top or on the side of the body, as, for example, on SATA guns (see figure below). He is responsible for the shape and size of the aerosol torch.

The second screw allows you to adjust the range of movement of the needle, which determines the amount of paint supplied to the nozzle. Some models of paint sprayers have a third regulator. With it, you can control the air supply to the instrument.

Setting up the spray gun means correct installation material-air balance. By setting the optimal ratio, you can achieve the ideal shape of the aerosol torch, which will contribute to uniform spraying of the composition on the surface to be treated.

Gun inlet pressure setting

Important! The inlet pressure parameter is indicated by the manufacturer in those. documentation for the device and is standardized.

Setting the inlet pressure should ideally be done with a regulator, with a built-in pressure gauge, which is connected to the handle of the instrument. This is explained by the fact that pressure losses in the line can reach up to 1 bar and above. The longer the duct, and the more bends on it, the greater the pressure loss. Also, this parameter is affected by the installed filters and moisture-oil separators.

With regulator and pressure gauge

Adjusting the spray gun with the upper tank with the installed regulator and pressure gauge is not difficult:

first unscrew the adjusting screw (1) as much as possible (see the figure below), which is responsible for the air supply;

further, the regulator of the shape and size of the torch (2) is unscrewed;
after unscrewing the screws, press the trigger (3), after which the air supply will begin;
on last step it is necessary to set the value on the pressure gauge (4) corresponding to the recommended value by turning the pressure regulator.

With electronic pressure gauge

Some "advanced" models of paint sprayers have a built-in electronic pressure gauge.

It is even easier to adjust the spray gun with a built-in electronic pressure gauge (see figure below).

Open the flame regulator as far as possible.
Pull the trigger.
Guided by the readings of the manometer, turn the air regulator until the pressure level at the inlet to the device reaches the recommended values.

With pressure gauge without regulator

In the case when a pressure gauge without a regulator is present on the handle of the spray gun, then the spray gun can be correctly adjusted as follows (see figure below).

Without pressure gauge

If the paint sprayer is not equipped with a pressure gauge, then you can make a rough, approximate adjustment of the device with compressor gearbox, taking into account pressure losses in the line.

Advice! Before setting up the tool, it should be borne in mind that the filter, if it is serviceable and not clogged, reduces the pressure by 0.3-0.5 atm., Not to mention a clogged element. In addition, approximately 0.6 atm. “lost” in an air hose if it has an inner diameter of 9 mm and a length of 10 m.

You can set up the spray gun for painting, if it does not have a measuring device, by the following method (see figure below).

If the spray gun is from an unknown manufacturer

Sometimes there are situations when there is no instruction for the device, or it is impossible to determine its manufacturer in order to find out what pressure is needed for the spray gun. The inlet pressure required for such an unknown tool can only be known by experience.

First of all, you should choose Coatings of standard viscosity and pour it into a jar.
Next, you need to unscrew all the regulators on the tool and use the adjustment screw on the pressure gauge to “experiment” with the pressure. It is required to achieve such a value at which a uniform imprint of the torch will appear on the painted surface. In this case, the tool should be kept at a distance of 15 cm from the surface prepared for the test.
Upon reaching the desired result, fix the value of the inlet pressure. This will be the working pressure for this device.

Important! You should be aware that most cheap, unknown origin spray guns require increased air consumption for normal operation, more than 200 liters min. Accordingly, not every compressor will be able to provide such a tool. necessary quantity compressed air, which will affect the staining result.

spray jet size

It is no secret that the effectiveness of coating with a paint sprayer largely depends on the state of the torch. The larger its size, and the higher the density of the aerosol, the more evenly the coating is applied to the surface with a small number of passes. But in some cases it is required to install small size torch, for example, if you need to coat small parts or paint in hard-to-reach places.

Torch size is easily adjustable: by turning the screw towards the “+” sign, the width of the torch increases, and, conversely, when the regulator is moved towards the “-” sign, the spray area decreases.

Advice! In most cases, this adjusting screw should be in the maximum open position.

Paint supply

When carrying out standard repairs, applying various coatings and painting bodies, it is recommended to open the material flow regulator completely. Usually this 3-4 turns of the adjusting screw. In this case, the nozzle should completely come off after pressing the trigger.

An important role in setting up the paint sprayer is played by the diameter of the nozzle. It is selected according to the density of the composition that will be used for spraying. Below is a table to help you quickly determine what nozzle size you need for different coatings.

The main malfunctions of the spray gun

Despite the simple design, the spray gun is still prone to breakage. Frequent malfunctions of the spray gun can be counted on the fingers.

The gun does not paint

This happens in the following situations.

The air pressure in the system is extremely low. The compressor must be adjusted to correct the problem.
The ink supply is interrupted due to a clogged needle and nozzle. It is necessary to disassemble the spray gun and clean the listed items.
Damaged needle or nozzle. Parts need to be replaced.

Paint sprayer spits

The reason that the spray gun spits can be several malfunctions.

Air cap loose. It is required to fasten the part well.
The viscosity of the paint does not match the air pressure. It is necessary to achieve an acceptable pressure-viscosity ratio.
The paint is too thick. It is necessary to prepare a paint of less density.
The breather on the dye bottle is clogged. It is necessary to remove the plug and clean the hole in it.
The pressure in the receiver has dropped below normal. It is required in the compressor settings to set the lower pressure threshold corresponding to the performance of the spray gun.

The torch moves to the side

If the spray paint spray is moving away from the gun, then the reasons for this may be the following.

Clogged side holes of the air cap. You need to remove the head and clean it.
Damage to the side holes of the air cap. The damaged part must be replaced.

Torch spot asymmetry

In this case, the problem may be caused by the following malfunctions.

Nozzle clogged. Repair of the spray gun in this case consists in removing the nozzle and cleaning its hole.
Nozzle damage. Part replacement required.
Clogging of the air cap, namely, its central hole. Remove the air cap, rinse and clean it.
Damage to the center hole of the air cap. This part needs to be replaced.

Painting is one of the most difficult types of bodywork. repair work. It takes a lot of patience and strength to make a paintwork truly durable and attractive. You can not do without special tools. If the car is painted without following the technology, after some time defects may appear on the surface. Next, we will talk about exactly what problems arise when painting with an airbrush and how to successfully cope with their solution.

Problem number 1: boiling varnish or paint

An example of boiling varnish or paint. Click on the photo to enlarge.

The cause of the appearance of bubbles in the thickness of the paint may be the following mistakes made during painting:

incorrect setting of the spray gun, as a result of which it delivers excessively a large number of paints;
improper dilution of the paint, as a result of which it turns out to be too viscous;
slow movements of the sprayer, as a result of which a too thick layer of paint is formed on the surface, or too much overlap of the previous layer with the next one.

To eliminate such defects, the pigment is completely dried, then sanded and another layer is applied - finishing.

Problem number 2: clouding of the paintwork

The main cause of clouding of the surface is the ingress of moisture into the paint during its application. How and why is this happening?

painting is carried out in a room with a low temperature, high humidity or wrong organized system ventilation, provoking the appearance of drafts;
low-quality or incorrectly selected solvent is used. If the room is cold and damp, you should use special remedy, and in minimum quantity otherwise the paint will dry for a very long time;
An improperly adjusted spray gun blows too much air when painting, causing the solvent to evaporate too quickly, cooling the painted surface and causing condensation to form on it.

The elimination of paint defects associated with clouding of the coating requires an elevated temperature in the workshop and the organization of proper air circulation. You should wait for the pigment to dry completely, then spray a special solvent on the defective area. For achievement maximum effect the surface is polished.

Problem number 3: the appearance of craters

Craters - small funnel-shaped depressions in the paintwork - form for several reasons:

the surface is not properly prepared for painting, in particular, washed soapy water or liquid detergent, as a result of which traces of silicone remained on it. They are subject to mandatory removal;
during the preparatory work the surface has been in contact with dust, fluffy rags, polishing paste and has not been properly cleaned;
oil has entered the air duct of the spray gun.

There is only one way to deal with craters: sand the surface and apply a new coat of paint.

Problem number 4: cracks in the paintwork on sharp edges

Immediately after painting or after some time, defects in the form of small cracks and cracks may appear on sharp bends of parts. The reason may be one of the following shortcomings made during painting:

applying paint in several layers without intermediate drying, as a result of which solvent accumulates in the thickness of the paint. It is he who causes cracking;
the use of poorly mixed paint and the wrong solvent. If the paint is not mixed well before application, the pigment will be distributed unevenly and the coating structure will become spongy. If you made a mistake with the choice of solvent and chose a composition that is too fast, you may encounter tangible difficulties: the paint will go down very badly;
poor cleaning of the surface before local painting, as a result of which the primer, and with it the paint, will “slide” from the bends of the part due to low adhesion;
blowing the primer layer with compressed air immediately after its application, which contributes to the rapid drying of the coating, but prevents the complete evaporation of the solvent and the release of excess air.

Eliminate such defects by removing the top layer of paint and applying a new one.

Problem number 5: "shagreen" or "orange peel" on the body of your car

Shagreen on the body of the car. Click on the photo to enlarge.

The appearance of this defect can be caused by various reasons:

incorrect setting of the spray gun or non-compliance with the painting technology (unregulated pressure, poor paint supply or too large distance between the nozzle and the surface, etc.);
too much heat in a repair shop. Such conditions require the use of special slow evaporating solvents;
insufficiently thorough mixing of the composition for painting and its non-compliance with viscosity standards;
too thin layer of paint;
painting in several layers without intermediate drying or drying with compressed air.

In this case, the elimination of painting defects is carried out by grinding with an abrasive paper (grain size depends on the degree of damage to the coating) followed by polishing. In the most severe cases, after sanding, it may be necessary to reapply the final coat of paint.

Problem number 6: smudges of varnish or paint

An example of paint smudges. Click on the photo to enlarge.

Smudges are one of the common defects in painting, especially if it is carried out by a non-professional. They occur if:

the paint is applied too thickly or without drying each layer before forming the next;
the air supply by the spray gun was carried out under excessively high pressure;
paint supply speed exceeded;
Gun nozzle too close to surface.

In most cases, it is possible to get rid of smudges with the help of grinding and polishing, but sometimes repainting of the surface is also required.

Problem number 7: dusty plaque

If the painting technology is violated, dry and semi-dry drops of paint may stick to a freshly painted surface. The main reason for this defect is the use of a fast evaporating thinner in warm and dry air conditions in the workshop, as a result of which the paint dries very quickly. In addition, the reason for the supply of semi-dry paint by the sprayer may be its incorrect setting or violation of technology, namely, re-spraying onto adjacent areas that cannot be painted.

If a defect has formed on the varnish, it can be easily removed by grinding. Plaque on synthetic enamel is much more difficult to sand, so it is recommended to sand the surface “wet” and then apply a new coat of paint.

Problem #8: Porous Surface

Pores - small holes in the paintwork - appear for several reasons:

the spray gun is incorrectly set or used incorrectly (not spraying enough or painting too close to the surface);
the presence of drafts in the workshop: air enters the paint and accelerates its drying, while all the solvent does not have time to evaporate;
varnish or paint is applied to a layer formed using the “dry” spray technology;
when applying from a gun, the paint is contaminated with oil or moistened;
insufficient drying of intermediate layers, especially when working with "heavy" coatings;
incorrect technique for working with a putty knife;
wrong choice of area for puttying or painting.

Troubleshooting

If the damage to the surface by the pores is insignificant, it is eliminated with a fine-grained sandpaper. More severe cases may require wet sanding and reapplying a final coat of paint or varnish. It will be possible to get rid of too noticeable pores only after grinding to metal and re-painting.

If we are talking about a layer of putty with pores, then it should be covered with another layer, while the putty knife is directed strictly perpendicular to the surface in order to ensure maximum filling of the pores with putty.

In order to prevent the appearance of pores on the paintwork, it is recommended to keep under strict control the temperature in the workshop, the viscosity of the paint, the type of solvent - in a word, everything that affects the speed of drying of the paint.

Problem number 9: garbage and dirt

Foreign particles on the paintwork appear due to:

use of non-strained working mixture of paint and solvent;
the presence of grinding dust on the surface for painting;
sedimentation of dust and other particles;
low quality filters
insufficient cleaning of the gun before painting.

The elimination of this defect is carried out by stripping the coating to an undamaged layer and then applying the finishing coats of paint again. Cleaning is not carried out only if foreign particles on the paintwork are hardened drops of paint sprayed from a gun.

Problem #10:

An example of a sharp color transition. Click on the photo to enlarge.

This difference is especially noticeable with local painting of damaged areas. A clear border of colors or color distortion is a consequence of such shortcomings as:

poor mixing of paint;
applying paint too thin, so that the primer shines through it;
violation of the technology of painting with the effect of "metallic";
the interaction of the old and new layers of paint.

In order to smooth out the color transition, the surface is treated with a fine-grained sandpaper, and then covered with another layer of paint.

Torch print issues

The top and bottom of the torch are spraying too much paint. This means that the ink or air nozzle is clogged or damaged. After repeated testing with a 180 ° turn of the torch, the nozzles are cleaned and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.

A jet of paint forms a curved spot on the surface, similar to a banana. Such a defect indicates that the air nozzle is dirty or damaged. The malfunction is eliminated by cleaning or replacing the nozzle.

The spray of paint is interrupted. There is air in the paint line. In this case, you should check whether there is enough paint in the spray tank and whether the paint nozzle is loose.

Excess ink at the top and bottom of the print. The problem is solved by reducing the ink supply, which, in turn, is achieved by adjusting the needle and the intensity of the air supply. You can also replace the nozzle with a smaller one. The cause of this defect may also be a malfunction of the needle or screw.

The imprint of the torch is divided into two parts. You can correct the situation by increasing the paint supply or reducing the air supply. Also, check to see if it's clogged. air vent in a jar.

Not enough paint in the center of the spot. The reason for this defect is that the ratio of the supply of paint and air is violated. To return the torch footprint to its normal shape, you need to adjust these settings.

Lenticular spot. This malfunction is also associated with an incorrect ink supply and air pressure setting. In addition, the reason may be that the viscosity of the paint is too high. You can solve the problem by adjusting the spray gun and diluting the paint with a solvent.

Why is the spray gun not working? Many, most likely, when faced with such a problem, take spanners, different sizes screwdrivers, disassemble the device and try to figure out what could be the cause of the breakdown, and most importantly, how to properly assemble it back, without remnants of the parts that make up the device.

This article proposes to get acquainted with what spray guns are, the reasons for them frequent breakdowns, and how to troubleshoot with your own hands.

Any paint sprayer is a very delicate device that is not adapted to neglect itself, and breakdowns are not always the reason for the low cost of the tool, this can also happen with a well-known, well-established brand.

Very often, the causes of breakdowns can be:

Incorrect operation of the spray gun (see).
Neglect of elementary rules when caring for an instrument.

Before disassembling the spray gun into components and parts, you need to get acquainted with the types of these tools.

They can be:

Manual(cm. ). Such designs with a manual supercharger, in appearance and principle of operation, resemble a conventional pump. Here, pressure is injected into the cavity with paint on its own, and then enters the nozzle.

Such a tool is most suitable for spraying liquid whitewash or an aqueous emulsion of a liquid consistency, and with a fully inflated tank, it will only last for a few minutes of painting, after which you will need to pump up the pump again.

The main disadvantages of such a tool:

not high working pressure, unable to lift the paint of a thicker consistency;
low efficiency and efficiency;
a rapid drop in the working pressure in the tank, which requires constant pumping.

Significant advantages of a spray gun with a manual supercharger - simple design and not too high a price. This allows any damage to be repaired with electrical tape.

Electric.

Tip: The electric spray gun is a specific tool. When choosing it, it is necessary to clearly understand for what tasks it will be used.

Electric spray guns differ in the power of the engine with which the paint enters the nozzle.

Repair of an electric spray gun is associated, most often with a burnt out engine, which is unlikely to be repaired by yourself. In addition, the price of a quality device is not too low, and it is not always rational to take risks by doing repairs yourself, it is better to pay specialists working in a service center for repairs.

Pneumatic. This is the most professional tool when painting walls (see). It is the hardest to repair.

This device consists entirely of mechanical components. There are no complex electronics here, but it often breaks due to prolonged or not quite correct operation.

Advantages of the pneumatic tool:

the ability to adjust the working pressure, limited only by the compressor power and the size of the receiver of the device;
with a pneumatic spray gun, you can spray all types of paints, even with a thick consistency, which depends on the settings of the tool;
repair of the unit is quite easy to do on your own, without the help of specialists;
giving the jet the desired configuration, it is possible to adjust the spray.

The cost of a pneumatic spray gun varies over a wide range, which allows you to make a choice according to the available funds.

Before repairing any device, you must:

Get to know its design.
Diagnose the problem correctly.
Determine the node in which the failure occurred.

As part of the spray gun:

Gun body, with handle, paint barrel, mixing trigger.
Solution injection mechanism, which is equipped with a nozzle and an adjusting bolt.
Spray regulator.
Air regulator.

The injection mechanism consists of several components:

A needle that opens and closes the hole for air and coloring composition.
The regulator bolt, when it is turned, the paint consumption is controlled.
Nut-clamp, which serves to clamp the needle.
The sealing ring, the hole in it, allows you to evenly distribute air around the circumference of the nozzle.
Spray nuts, in the part there is one hole in the center and two small ones at the edges, which allows you to adjust the size of the “torch”.

Tip: Each product comes with detailed instructions, in which the tool is shown in section. Before work, you should carefully study the design so that after the repair there are no “extra” parts.

How to diagnose the device and possible breakdowns

The table shows the main breakdowns of the spray gun and the reasons leading to this:

Fault name	Causes of failure
The spray pattern is oval in shape and does not respond to changes in the position of the adjusting bolt	The shut-off valve broke off in the adjustment unit. This problem often occurs with low quality instruments. The side holes in the feed nozzle are clogged. In the regulatory unit, the sealing gum needs to be replaced.
The paint supply is uneven and spits out in chunks	Too thick consistency paint, which is not intended for this type of spray gun. Accumulation of condensate in the air hoses, it must be drained. This very often occurs during the cold season. Clogged holes in the outlet nozzle. A large amount of solid particles have accumulated in the paint container, which does not pass through the needle. The composition should be drained, the instrument thoroughly rinsed and a new composition should be poured, but passed through a sieve.
The trigger does not retract when released	Piston located on the feed needle, fuse. The tool is disassembled and thoroughly washed, spraying is repeated. Placed under the bolt that adjusts the feed needle, the spring has sagged. Due to rust, the moving mechanisms of the trigger stopped moving. The rubber seal located on the needle dried up and the piston moved from its place.
Nozzle dripping paint in its closed position	The needle was sharpened and stopped blocking the nozzle. The sagging spring does not press the needle. Solid particles have entered the assembly and are interfering with the correct stroke of the needle. The trigger does not recline to the desired position.
Constantly changes the direction of the spray jet	The hole in the nozzle is clogged. There are clots or foreign objects in the feeder or ink tank. The bolt that regulates the torch broke.
Spray gun does not spray paint when triggered	The needle is not moved by the trigger mechanism. The feed unit is clogged with paint clots or foreign objects. Very thick paint

Tip: Usually a repair kit for such a tool consists of several bolts and rubber seals that come with it, but in the absence of parts, you should immediately purchase several rubber seals, which often deteriorate.

How to maintain and repair the spray gun

For example, a pneumatic spray gun is taken. low pressure. The main problem of many units is the use alkyd paints. After completion of work, the sprayer must be cleaned and rinsed well.

Otherwise pistol:

Get clogged.
It will spray unevenly.

Tip: All elements for spray guns should be cleaned and washed - they all practically “overgrow” with paint, the layers of which must be washed off with solvent or gasoline.

When servicing the spray gun:

Most of the problems arise with a valve that dries to the cylinder, as a result it cannot be moved. The use, in this case, of solvents, weakens the dried layer of paintwork materials, and allows you to clean the assembly. All actions are done very carefully so as not to harm such a small detail.
No less than the valve, the nozzles and nozzle are clogged. At the same time, the main detail of the assembly is the needle, which is involved in the formation of the torch and determines the quality of the painting work. To clean up these small parts solvent brush is used. Here everything must be done very carefully, as can be seen in the photo, in order to prevent the formation of scratches in the nozzle itself, which can cause the coatings to settle in the grooves and lead to a distortion of the shape of the torch.

When cleaning equipment, it is better to use specially designed SATA needles and brushes that do not scratch the nozzle.
If the water separator for the spray gun, which is a filter for the tool, is heavily clogged, paintwork materials pass through it, then it can be cleaned with the same tools and materials as the nozzle.
It is very important to use paints and varnishes coming to the spray nozzle, without lumps, for which the paint container must always be clean. This is due to the fact that the paint that has solidified on its walls will peel off and then mix with the liquid and get into conductive parts.
If there is a pressure gauge for the spray gun and a pressure regulator, they must be cleaned of dried layers of paint, which can lead to malfunctions, and hence to a poor-quality finish.

After carrying out all the activities for cleaning the sprayer, it must be assembled back in the same order as the disassembly was performed, but after the components and parts have completely dried. You can also dry them with a hair dryer. Friction elements, including the gun trigger rod and needles, must be lubricated with silicone-free grease.

Proper operation will make any airbrush - a good, inexpensive reliable assistant when carrying out repairs in the house, and the video will tell you how to do it correctly.

(17.05.13) Inessa
Hello! No paint supply to the spray gun. What to do?

Hello Ines. The reasons for the lack of a paint composition in the spray gun can be associated both with the device itself and with the material used. In addition, this process may be affected by improper operation of the gun.

Each individual brand of appliance has its own instructions for setting the correct paintwork, in particular, the air pressure supplied and the paint composition. You must strictly follow the instructions supplied with the device itself. In the course of work, the user begins to “feel” the device and adjust it, relying only on the trial and error method. Here are the most common reasons for the lack of output of the coloring material:

Clogged nozzle
The presence of large inclusions in the paint composition
Mesh damage
Covering the paint supply channel
Blocking the air intake channel
Needle damage
Factory defect of the device

If you are using the gun for the first time after purchase and have not properly inspected it in the store, there may be a factory defect. Although this is rare. You can replace the spray gun if you keep the warranty card and receipt.

Popular breakdowns and repair methods

But, most likely, the reason is not a factory defect, but the inexperience of the user. Try adjusting the machine using the adjusting screw. Attach a small sheet of drawing paper to the wall and try to improvise with paint, gradually opening the screw. Adjust the supply of paintwork without pressing the trigger of the gun. The screw creates barriers to the movement of the needle, does not allow it to open the outlet for the paint composition.

If adjusting the pressure supply does not change the situation, you need to check if the needle is dirty. Try to clean the needle and nozzle, repeat the test on paper. If the cause is a damaged mesh, it must be replaced.

Sometimes the spray gun refuses to work when the outlet for the paint composition is fully opened. This may mean that you may be using a substance that is too viscous. If large lumps are noticeable in the mass, grind the paint composition, then strain it on a vibrating screen. Try to apply paint to the paper in a new consistency, adjusting the pressure with a screw.

Also check the condition of the air supply. After pouring paint into the tank and connecting to the air line, gradually add air pressure. Make periodic short “sprays” on the paper in parallel with the increase in pressure.

Carefully read all instructions for storage and maintenance of the device of a particular brand. Try to wash all the indicated elements of the apparatus immediately after work. Use materials recommended by your gun manufacturer.

Airbrush for home use

Why is the spray gun not working? Many, most likely, when faced with such a problem, take wrenches, different sizes of screwdrivers, disassemble the device and try to figure out what could be the cause of the breakdown, and most importantly, how to properly assemble it back, without remnants of the parts that make up the device.

This article proposes to get acquainted with what spray guns are, the reasons for their frequent breakdowns, and how to fix the malfunctions with your own hands.

Spray gun device

What are the types of spray guns

Very often, the causes of breakdowns can be:

Incorrect use of the spray gun (see How to use the spray gun: professional advice).
Neglect of elementary rules when caring for an instrument.

Before disassembling the spray gun into components and parts, you need to get acquainted with the types of these tools.

They can be:

Manual (see How to choose a manual spray gun). Such designs with a manual supercharger, in appearance and principle of operation, resemble a conventional pump. Here, pressure is injected into the cavity with paint on its own, and then enters the nozzle.

The main disadvantages of such a tool:

not high working pressure, unable to lift the paint of a thicker consistency;

low efficiency and efficiency;

a rapid drop in the working pressure in the tank, which requires constant pumping.

The essential advantages of a spray gun with a manual supercharger are a simple design, and not too high a price. This allows any damage to be repaired with electrical tape.

Electric.

Airbrush working on battery

Tip: The electric spray gun is a specific tool. When choosing it, it is necessary to clearly understand for what tasks it will be used.

Electric spray guns differ in the power of the engine with which the paint enters the nozzle.

Pneumatic. This is the most professional tool for painting walls (see Painting walls in an apartment: what and how to do). It is the hardest to repair.

This device consists entirely of mechanical components. There are no complex electronics here, but it often breaks due to prolonged or not quite correct operation.

Advantages of the pneumatic tool:

the ability to adjust the working pressure, limited only by the compressor power and the size of the receiver of the device;

with a pneumatic spray gun, you can spray all types of paints, even with a thick consistency, which depends on the settings of the tool;

repair of the unit is quite easy to do on your own, without the help of specialists;

giving the jet the desired configuration, it is possible to adjust the spray.

The cost of a pneumatic spray gun varies over a wide range, which allows you to make a choice according to the available funds.

Spray gun device

Before repairing any device, you must:

Get to know its design.
Diagnose the problem correctly.
Determine the node in which the failure occurred.

As part of the spray gun:

Gun body, with handle, paint barrel, mixing trigger.
Solution injection mechanism, which is equipped with a nozzle and an adjusting bolt.
Spray regulator.
Air regulator.

The injection mechanism consists of several components:

A needle that opens and closes the hole for air and coloring composition.
The regulator bolt, when it is turned, the paint consumption is controlled.
Nut-clamp, which serves to clamp the needle.
The sealing ring, the hole in it, allows you to evenly distribute air around the circumference of the nozzle.
Spray nuts, in the part there is one hole in the center and two small ones at the edges, which allows you to adjust the size of the “torch”.

Tip: Detailed instructions are attached to each product, in which the tool is shown in section. Before work, you should carefully study the design so that after the repair there are no “extra” parts.

Spray gun device

How to diagnose the device and possible breakdowns

The table shows the main breakdowns of the spray gun and the reasons leading to this:

Fault name Causes of failure The spray jet is oval and does not respond to a change in the position of the adjusting bolt

The shut-off valve broke off in the adjustment unit. This problem often occurs with low quality instruments.
The side holes in the feed nozzle are clogged.
In the regulatory unit, the sealing gum needs to be replaced.

The paint supply is uneven and spits out in chunks

Too thick consistency paint, which is not intended for this type of spray gun.
Accumulation of condensate in the air hoses, it must be drained. This very often occurs during the cold season.
Clogged holes in the outlet nozzle.
A large amount of solid particles have accumulated in the paint container, which does not pass through the needle. The composition should be drained, the instrument thoroughly rinsed and a new composition should be poured, but passed through a sieve.

The trigger does not retract when released

Piston located on the feed needle, fuse. The tool is disassembled and thoroughly washed, spraying is repeated.
Placed under the bolt that adjusts the feed needle, the spring has sagged.
Due to rust, the moving mechanisms of the trigger stopped moving.
The rubber seal located on the needle dried up and the piston moved from its place.

Nozzle dripping paint in its closed position

The needle was sharpened and stopped blocking the nozzle.
The sagging spring does not press the needle.
Solid particles have entered the assembly and are interfering with the correct stroke of the needle.
The trigger does not recline to the desired position.

Constantly changes the direction of the spray jet

The hole in the nozzle is clogged.
There are clots or foreign objects in the feeder or ink tank.
The bolt that regulates the torch broke.

Spray gun does not spray paint when triggered

The needle is not moved by the trigger mechanism.
The feed unit is clogged with paint clots or foreign objects.
Very thick paint

Tip: Usually a repair kit for such a tool consists of several bolts and rubber seals that come with it, but in the absence of parts, you should immediately purchase several rubber seals, which often deteriorate.

How to maintain and repair the spray gun

For example, a low-pressure pneumatic spray gun is taken. The main problem of many units is the use of alkyd paints. After completion of work, the sprayer must be cleaned and rinsed well.

Otherwise pistol:

Get clogged.
It will spray unevenly.

Tip: All elements for spray guns should be cleaned and washed - they all practically “overgrow” with paint, the layers of which must be washed off with solvent or gasoline.

When servicing the spray gun:

Most of the problems arise with a valve that dries to the cylinder, as a result it cannot be moved. The use, in this case, of solvents, weakens the dried layer of paintwork materials, and allows you to clean the assembly. All actions are done very carefully so as not to harm such a small detail.
No less than the valve, the nozzles and nozzle are clogged. At the same time, the main detail of the assembly is the needle, which is involved in the formation of the torch and determines the quality of the painting work. To clean such small parts, a brush with a solvent is used. Here everything must be done very carefully, as can be seen in the photo, in order to prevent the formation of scratches in the nozzle itself, which can cause the coatings to settle in the grooves and lead to a distortion of the shape of the torch.

Nozzle cleaning procedure

When cleaning equipment, it is better to use specially designed SATA needles and brushes that do not scratch the nozzle.
If the water separator for the spray gun, which is a filter for the tool, is heavily clogged, paintwork materials pass through it, then it can be cleaned with the same tools and materials as the nozzle.
It is very important to use the paint materials delivered to the spray nozzle without lumps, for which the paint container must always be clean. This is due to the fact that the paint that has solidified on its walls will peel off and then mix with the liquid and get into conductive parts.
If there is a pressure gauge for the spray gun and a pressure regulator, they must be cleaned of dried layers of paint, which can lead to malfunctions, and hence to a poor-quality finish.

Proper operation will make any spray gun a good, inexpensive reliable assistant when carrying out repairs in the house, and the video will tell you how to do it correctly.