Over time, even quality bath becomes unusable, so old cast-iron dishes, as a rule, are sent to a landfill. Just do not rush to commit such an act, because you can use this product in a new way, give it new life. For example, from old bath you can make a pond in the country, a bench and even a stove. If you saw an old vessel across, then you will get an excellent do-it-yourself bath stove. It can be installed in the bath or on garden plot, the main thing is to be able to deal with welding machine, because without it in this process there is no way to do. This material will help you with this, you will produce a high-quality, durable and useful design.

What is required for work?

To make a do-it-yourself oven from a bath, purchase and prepare all the materials, fixtures, and tools necessary for work.

Important! You need to understand that sawing a cast-iron structure, in particular Soviet-made, is quite difficult, because before manufacturers did not spare metal.

To work, you will need the following tools:

small Sander or Bulgarian. It is important that it be reliable, because a low-quality tool will not cope with such a task.
Circles for cutting metal with a diameter of 125 mm and a thickness of 1 mm. You will need 3-4 circles, it all depends on the thickness of the cast iron.
Grinding wheels. They are necessary for processing the cut sides of the metal.
Electric drill with metal drills for drilling holes in the product.
Welding machine.
Spatula and trowel to perform finishing works And brickwork.
Construction pistol.
Building level.
Plumb.
Hammer.

From the materials you will need:

Cast iron bath.
Sheets of metal 5 mm thick.
Double burner cast iron stove.
Brick.
Grate.
Sand and clay for making masonry mortar.
Heat-resistant ready-made adhesive mixture.
Sealant.
Bolts with washers and nuts.
Metal mesh for reinforcing clay mortar.
Ceramic tile.
Metal corner.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 110-120 mm.
Goggles, respirator, construction gloves.

How to cut a cast iron bath?

As we have already said, it is not so easy to make a stove from an old bathtub with your own hands, and cutting it is the most responsible and difficult process. Most milestone- this, of course, is a high-quality section of a massive structure.

If you decide to cut indoors, then first do the preparatory work, since cast iron dust will scatter in all directions and can ruin everything that is around. Therefore, free the room from all objects.
Mark the future section, because you need to divide the bath clearly in half.
Considering that the structure is covered with a thick layer of enamel, first of all cut it according to the line of the future cut - this will avoid the formation of chips along the edges.
Carefully cut the cast iron using small cuts of 100-120 mm.

Important! Do this at an angle so that the disc does not peel off the enamel when it comes back. Make sure that the grinder does not overheat.

After the cut is completed, place supports under each half, for example, from stacks of bricks. This is done so that at the final stage they do not close along the sawn line and do not pinch or break the disk.

With everything at hand essential tool you can get the job done in an hour.

Important! Since the bathtub must be sawn exactly in half to make the intended design, make sure that the symmetry is not broken.

How to make a cast-iron stove from an old bath with your own hands?

After doing preparatory work deliver the cut bath to the installation site, and you can start building the intended structure.

Perform manufacturing using this technology:

In the place where the stove made from a cast-iron bath will be installed with your own hands, equip the foundation.

Important! It must be done, because the product will turn out to be heavy, and it will begin to shrink without a reliable foundation. As a result, the entire structure can be deformed.

Install the lower part of the bath on a dried foundation. If you want it to be higher, then lift it with supports and secure it to concrete mortar. While the base will harden and dry, start making other parts.
You can make the oven in two variations, and then everyone decides for himself what to stop at. In the first case, its facade is made entirely of metal walls, in the second case, the blower and the firebox are closed with a brick wall, where metal or cast-iron doors are built in.
On the walls of the lower semi-cylinder, fix the brackets for mounting the grate. It is needed to separate the blower and the firebox, so it is better to raise it a little above the bottom of the bath by 15 cm. Fasten the metal corners to the marked walls of the product, lay the grate on them.
Cut out a sheet of metal to cover the bottom of the firebox. Then, in cast iron, cut a hole for the chimney pipe along the intended contour of the circle, first small holes, then carefully combine them with a grinder, bring the resulting opening with a file to the required configuration.
Coat the furnace part with fire-resistant sealant, cover sheet metal with a chimney built into it. On top of the sheet, install the second part of the bath with a hole for the pipe. It is also treated with sealant before installation. As a result, you will put the upper part on the pipe, increase the chimney to the desired height.
Twist both parts of the tub and the metal sheet located between them with 10 mm bolts. Pre-drill in the sides of the bath through holes with a step of 15-20 cm, then fasten all the elements through them into a single structure.
Separate the blower and combustion chamber with a grate. Lay the grate on the prepared corners on the walls.
Proceed to masonry work. The walls will be located on three sides of the future structure, that is, behind and on the sides, or around the entire perimeter of the chambers. First of all, the laying lines are laid out along the foundation, and only then the walls are brought out.
If you decide to close the firebox and blower from the front side brick wall, then install the blower door in the wall not lower than the level of the bottom of the bath, and the furnace door slightly above the grate. Fold the walls to the level of the cooking chamber, expand them inward so that the brick fits snugly against the outside of the structure.

Important! In this case, it is better to close the cooking chamber, which can be used as an oven, with a metal damper. In order for the damper to close the chamber tightly, fix a metal corner in front of it, while the distance from it to the facade cut should be 2 mm greater than the thickness metal door. The handle on the damper must be protected from overheating to avoid burns, so it is better to make its grip part out of wood.

As soon as the entire lower part is dressed in brickwork, proceed to the insulation of the cooking chamber. To create a fur coat, it is better to use a clay solution with low thermal conductivity. Prepare the mixture, add some sand to it, after it dries, add lime to it. Leave him to infuse.
Cover the cooking compartment with a metal mesh, attach it to the brickwork on the sides and from the back. On top of it, apply a solution in two layers, so that the thickness of the insulating coat as a result is 5-7 cm.
Now it's time to take care of the aesthetic appearance of the stove, because it should not only perform its main functions, but also decorate your site. You can put it on ceramic tiles in the form of a mosaic, only for this you will have to first break it into small pieces. Laying is carried out using a special heat-resistant compound.

Important! As a result, you will get an excellent do-it-yourself bath stove. In the summer, you can cook on it every day, thereby saving gas and electricity. It is worth noting that food cooked in this way is tastier and more aromatic than food cooked on a conventional stove.

How else can you use an old cast iron bath?

In addition to the above method of reincarnating an old bath, there are many more interesting ideas to make something really useful out of it.

Let's take a closer look at the most successful of them:

The bath can be turned into a fireplace insert. The advantage of this use of cast iron is that there is no need to build a complex semi-circular brick shape. To make a fireplace with a firebox with an arched vault, you need to prepare a template from plywood or boards, then do a few simple manipulations and overlay the structure with bricks. All that remains is to make a hole in the ceiling of the old bathtub for smoke removal and decorate with front side fireplace portal.
A sawn bath can be converted into a bath furnace. Even a novice master can understand how to make a stove in a bath from a bath. It is enough to install it with the dome up, install one part on a concrete base in the steam room, and install the second part into the wall and take it out to another room where the stove will be kindled. Next, the cut hole must be covered with a brick wall, and a blower and furnace door should be installed in it.

The transformations of old cast-iron baths amaze with their diversity, originality, and beauty. Therefore, do not immediately get rid of already unnecessary plumbing, perhaps it will be able to serve you for many more years, only in a different form!

There comes a time when plumbing, due to its appearance or malfunction, becomes unusable. But, replacing it with a new one, you should not rush to throw it away. Summer residents and home owners can easily make a garden stove from a cast-iron bath, which will not be inferior to factory models in terms of strength and service life.

Advantages of using cast iron

This type of metal is rightfully considered one of the best furnace materials. Its main advantages include:

environmental safety. When heated, it does not emit harmful substances.
Temperature resistance. An outdoor stove made of bricks can begin to crumble after a few years.
High thermal conductivity. A cast iron fireplace warms up a room much faster than one built from other materials.
Strength . Cast iron is the leader among metals in terms of strength. Even steel ovens are less reliable.
Ease of use.
fire safety.

The disadvantages of cast iron that you should pay attention to are brittleness and susceptibility to corrosion. In the first case, unnecessary mechanical influences should be avoided, in the second case, the surface should be treated with special solutions.

A home-made cast iron structure will not turn out very beautiful, so it is recommended to overlay it with brick or stone.

Preparation of materials and tools

To create such a miracle oven from the bath, you need to prepare:

angle grinder (grinder);
2-3 circles for metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm, a diameter of 12.5 cm;
electric drill;
drills for metal with a diameter of 9, 11 mm;
grinding wheels;
files;
hammer;
level;
construction gun (for applying sealant);
plumb;
putty knife;
Master OK.

Materials you will need:

iron or steel sheet 5 mm;
refractory red brick;
grate;
sealant;
clay;
sand;
metal corner;
bolts with nuts, washers;
chimney pipe with a diameter of 12 cm.

Photo: the material is prepared, it remains to choose the purpose of the furnace and get to work

When all the materials, tools are collected, you can start cutting the container. For convenience, it can be turned upside down or laid on its side.

Users often search:

You need to wield the grinder carefully so as not to damage the surface.

Before you start sawing the bath, it is worth considering a few nuances:

Marking will simplify cutting the product.
The first layer of enamel is removed strictly along the drawn line. This will help prevent chipping at the edges.
The next step is to cut the cast iron. Do this gradually, in small pieces of about 10 cm, so as not to overheat the grinder.
When the bath is already sawn in half, supports are placed under each part. They will not allow parts to fall and damage the tool, material.

According to reviews experienced builders, grinder better to work at an angle. So the enamel does not start to peel off and all the cuts will turn out to be smooth without burrs.

Subject to the use of a high-quality grinder, the processing of cast iron will take no more than 1 hour.

For a barbecue, you will need two halves of the bath: one part will serve as a fuel loading chamber, the other is necessary for cooking. For a sauna stove or fireplace, one half will be enough.

Step-by-step creation of a furnace from a bath

Without building experience, it is worth consulting with a specialist about all the intricacies of masonry and installation of parts, but it is better to perform work under the supervision of a master. So the product will turn out to be of high quality and standards fire safety will be observed.

As for the construction of the foundation, its type depends on the total weight of the furnace:

For structures over 700 kg, a monolithic or strip base with a depth of 50 cm or more should be equipped. A formwork is constructed along the perimeter of the pit and covered with a layer of crushed stone or broken brick. Compacted. Filled with concrete.
For ovens small size enough brick foundation. It is recommended to purchase cement grade not lower than M300. Bricks are placed with an edge, fastened together with a solution.

Now consider detailed instructions for the manufacture of each of the furnaces with different purposes.

For a bath

To create in the steam room the necessary conditions, the design must meet the following requirements:

have a high thermal power;
regulate convection currents;
produce enough steam.

The procedure for building a sauna stove:

It is important to note that the foundation must have a protrusion on the borders of the furnace of at least 50 cm, and 1–1.5 m of free space must be left in front of the furnace.

An interesting idea is to make a bath stove from both halves of the bath. The second part will be needed as an extension for heating water, or you can lay out a Russian heater from it.

For cooking

On suburban area not to do without a barbecue or a brazier. And the opportunity to bake delicious bread, fry meat in the fresh air makes the owners equip small outdoor ovens on the territory.

Here is a description of how to build a barbecue step by step from the bath.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Some masters leave the barbecue in this state, but in order for your oven to look beautiful, you still need to do exterior finish.

There are several options:

Clay whitewashing.
Masonry of a whole ceramic tile or its pieces.
Surface finish natural stone pre-cut into pieces 10 mm thick.

The materials are attached to the furnace with heat-resistant adhesives.

A good solution is to install the chimney to the stove through the drain hole of the bath, expanding it in advance, and only then weld it to the steel sheet.

For heating

In the country, it is easy to build a fireplace from half a bath. He can be:

Built into the wall. Suitable if the house has brick walls. Significantly saves free space.
Reclined (half-open). The firebox is located at a considerable distance from the wall. This fireplace does not need a separate foundation, it is mounted directly into the floor. Has good draft, the built-in ashpit.

The advantage of using a cast-iron bath for the furnace part is that the fireplace is obtained in the form of an arch and eliminates complex brickwork. The hole for the chimney is made at the top of the tub. The outer part is decorated with a fireplace portal.

When building a semi-open fireplace, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

Pour under the base cement mortar up to 15 mm thick.
A metal mesh is laid on top.
A layer of waterproofing is applied.
Asbestos cardboard type insulation is laid.
A pedestal under the firebox is being built. Suitable brick, aerated concrete. The binder mixture is cement mortar or heat-resistant glue.
The structure is plastered. You can finish it with stone, ceramic tiles.
Between the lining and the fireplace insert, a gap is left for the convection heating system.
The chimney pipe is mounted in the hole made, removed through the ceiling, the roof. Often made in the form of a sleeve.
From the inside of the firebox, the chimney is sheathed with heat-insulating non-combustible material.
Finishing the bottom of the fireplace.
The product is closed from the side and from above with a frame made of duralumin corners connected by self-tapping screws.
The frame is sheathed with drywall.
Holes are made in the lining for air ventilation.

When installing a chimney, it is important to take into account that with a pipe height of up to 5 m, the deviation angle is 45 0, over 5 m - no more than 20 0.

For waste disposal

An unusual decision to build an incinerator from an old bathtub.

The principle of its construction is similar to a street barbecue.

Scheme of placement of the furnace on a brick base

The alternative is to remake the old heater by removing all parts except for the grate and body. Part of the cast iron is welded to the base from the inside to strengthen the structure.

In such a fiery trash can, you can load waste directly from above. When burning, the stove should be covered with another part of the bath so that the smoke does not disperse throughout the area.

So do not rush to get rid of things that are out of order or have lost their appearance. IN skillful hands even an old bath will get a second life, it will become a functional stove that will last for many years.

After repairing and replacing the old bathtub with a new one, it often happens that the hand does not rise to throw out another solid cast-iron product. But what to do with him next? People who have a dacha usually take out things that have become unnecessary to their suburban area, doing so with the expectation that they will definitely find some use for them in the future. We will tell you how to make a sauna stove from an old cast-iron bath.

Cast iron bathtub that had to be replaced with a more modern version may already look not too fresh on the outside. But it still remains a strong and durable container of a sufficiently large volume, which you want to somehow adapt to your household needs.

In the country, a cast-iron bathtub can find many uses.

Most often in the country, a bathtub is used as a reservoir for water used for irrigation, or as a container for making compost. But there are other ideas as well. For example, from a bath you can make an original garden furniture or build a small artificial pond, which will become a real decoration of the site. And here much depends on the imagination of the owner of the cottage. And viewing the photos of the options already implemented will help you navigate the situation and find something extraordinary for yourself. But you can also make a stove from a cast-iron bath, because in the store they are quite expensive. Cast iron is a perfectly suitable material for this purpose, which differs in:

high strength;
good thermal conductivity;
resistance to high temperatures;
unpretentiousness in operation.

Decorated cast iron bathtub for collecting water in the country

Of course, all cast iron products, despite their strength, are quite fragile. Therefore, they must be handled with care and avoid applying excessive mechanical forces to them. But still, a good furnace structure will turn out from an old bath. From it you can make one of several options for stoves for summer cottages:

street garden;
fireplace for a country house;
for a bath.

All these options are quite doable with your own hands, and watching a video on this topic will help you better understand the process of actions that will be required for the independent construction of the furnace. The bath itself will have to be cut into pieces. But sawing cast iron is not an easy task, requiring certain skills, effort and time.

How to cut a cast iron bath?

This operation must be approached with all responsibility. You need to act very carefully so as not to damage the cast iron product. For cutting, you will need a grinder and several metal discs. Work, if possible, is best done not indoors, but on the street, doing it in a respirator, goggles and construction gloves. It is necessary to follow the following sequence of actions:

first of all, the marking of the future section is made;

Sawing the tub carefully to avoid chipping

then, along the entire outlined line, a layer of enamel covering the cast-iron base of the bath is first incised to avoid the formation of chips along the edges;
after that, they begin to cut the cast iron itself with cuts of 10-12 cm, taking breaks when the tool overheats;
after sawing about half of the bath, you need to put supports under each of the parts, otherwise at the end of the work they can close and damage the tool.

Advice. It is desirable to cut the cast-iron base at an angle. In this case, as a result of the reverse stroke of the disc, the enamel will not peel off, and the cut itself will turn out to be even. WITH good tool on hand, the work of cutting a cast-iron bath into pieces can be done in about an hour.

A stove for a bath from a cast-iron bath: how to make it yourself?

It is much more difficult to build a sauna stove than to install an ordinary garden stove on the site. After all, it should be not only effective, but also safe. Therefore, you need to responsibly approach the installation of the stove in the room. And in order to quickly navigate the process necessary action, you can see the photo or read the relevant video material.

Attention! The construction of a bathhouse and any other stove requires compliance with fire safety rules. For its proper equipment, you need to have at least minimal knowledge and experience. Even before starting work, it is better to first consult on this issue with a specialist, finding out all the subtleties and nuances.

The furnace structure in the bathhouse must comply with the following parameters:

sufficient thermal power with the possibility of changing it;
the ability to accumulate heat and produce steam;
the ability to regulate convection currents.

For the construction of the furnace, a cast-iron bath is suitable standard sizes

After cutting the bath, you can begin to build a furnace structure. In this case, you can use only one half of the cast-iron container for the equipment of the furnace compartment. But they do sauna stoves and a two-piece bath. The second half can go to the construction of a heater or to add a compartment for heating water.

Those who love to make everything with their own hands can build such an unusual sauna stove on their own. For this you need:

Pour the foundation for the furnace structure from concrete mortar with or without filler. As a filler, you can use, for example, broken brick.
Lay half of the cut bath on the foundation with the curved part up. With a cut, the cast-iron container must be built into the wall with removal to another room, from where the furnace will be fired. On this side, the hole is covered with a brick wall and a furnace and blower door is installed in it.
Around the installed half of the bath, at a distance of about 10 cm, red brick walls are also erected, equal in height to the cast-iron container. The resulting space is filled with stones, which, when heated, will heat up, then giving off heat to the steam room.

Furnace construction

A fairly simple sauna stove can be built in two tiers. Heat will accumulate in the upper chamber. The principle of operation is as follows: the gas, passing through the bath, warms up the stones, goes to the opposite side, then goes down and then up, after which it exits the pipe.

Such a non-standard solution, like a sauna stove from an old bath, is not only original, but also quite simple. Its construction does not require the use of any special materials. A self-made furnace design will last as long as a purchased product. In addition, this option requires a significantly lower investment than the purchase of a furnace already in finished form.

Bath stove: video

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Bath stove: 4 stages of creating a cast-iron monster

There are not many stoves in a well-equipped dacha, especially good ones, and the old cast iron bath It's a pity to sell it for scrap. It was these thoughts that visited me after installing a brand new kvarilovy font in my apartment. And I decided not to get rid of the former massive tank, but to take it to a suburban area and convert it into an efficient furnace design. Next, I will describe how it was.

Stage number 1: preparation of tools and materials

As for transporting the bathtub to the dacha, the most difficult thing was to bring it to the trailer. Cast iron is incredibly heavy and has magical property: Gain mass with every step you take. But somehow, with my comrades, we, nevertheless, put the "behemoth" in the prepared vehicle and I delivered it to the place of further work.

It was only after everyone had suffered as loaders that I had a brilliant idea that it was necessary to cut the font even in the bathroom, because anyway it will need to be done in the future to create a furnace. So, on the other hand, the two halves are much more convenient and easier to carry than the entire cast-iron product.

After the delivery of the main "beast", I set about preparing all the other accessories necessary to carry out the planned accessories:

Tools

When working with a cast-iron bathtub, poured back in Soviet times, I recommend using only high-quality power tools of well-known foreign brands, since cheap Chinese specimens simply cannot withstand such a difficult confrontation and burn out.

materials

In addition to the cast-iron tank itself, I needed:

Stage number 2: cutting a cast-iron font

I just want to warn you that This process is very time consuming, requiring great patience and care., since during its execution it is possible to break both the tool and the disc, as a result of which there is a high probability of serious injury to people nearby.

In my performance it looked like this:

To start put the tub upside down on the ground for the convenience of further operations;

If you will cut the container while still indoors, be sure to close the walls and furniture polyethylene film or old rags, otherwise cast-iron dust will settle on them, which is almost impossible to remove.

Strictly draw a straight line in the middle, marking the place of the incision;

Further strictly according to the marked markup carefully cut the enamel layer with a grinder, the depth of which, as a rule, is from 1.5 to 2.5 mm. If you immediately start sawing cast iron itself, then chips will form on the enamel covering it;

Now moved on to cutting the font itself and did it slowly, regularly resting the instrument. Believe me, the price of haste here can be very high, the saved 20-30 minutes will not replace your burnt grinder.

Stage number 2: installation work

Now it's time to assemble a real stove from an old do-it-yourself cut bath. I will conditionally divide this part of the work into three phases:

Foundation laying

Above, I already mentioned that the cast-iron font is very, very heavy, and so the structure being constructed will be even harder. Therefore, without a reliable foundation, shrinkage processes will constantly occur, which will lead to deformation of the body, which is absolutely unacceptable. Therefore, I started the assembly by pouring a reliable foundation:

I dug a pit with my own hands with a shovel with an area slightly larger than the future furnace, and a depth of 300 mm;

Then he covered the bottom with a ten-centimeter layer of sand mixed with rubble;
around the perimeter laid out the formwork from the boards;
Installed fittings inside;
Mixed concrete mortar from gravel, sand and cement in proportions 5:3:1;

I filled the prepared recess with the resulting mixture.

In a good way, the foundation should be poured long even before the dismantling of the old bath, as it will take time to set. But for me this moment came out ill-conceived, and therefore there was a break in my activity aimed at making a furnace.

Furnace assembly

As the foundation hardened, I moved on to assembling the two halves of the tub into something more practical and functional:

Cut out a sheet of prepared metal, which can completely cover the floor of the font;

Made closer to back wall the future design of the hole and welded to it a half-meter piece of the prepared pipe;
One of the halves of the tank was installed on the foundation;

Then applied a heat-resistant sealant to its edges using mounting gun, and placed the assembled sheet on top with part of the mounted chimney;

Further took up making a hole for the chimney in the second half of the cast-iron container. Here the work turned out to be more difficult than similar manipulations with a steel sheet, so I will describe them in more detail:

He applied the markings in accordance with the section of the chimney pipe around the drain. Of course, it needs to be marked first of all where it will take place, it’s just that for greater convenience I initially adjusted all the structural elements so that these points coincided;
Drilled a lot of holes along the outlined contour;
Carefully, again, without haste, I cut the remaining jumpers with a grinder;
The edges of the resulting opening were carefully processed with a file, bringing to the desired state;

He applied sealant around the perimeter of the sheet covering the already installed part of the furnace, and, putting the second half of the bath on the pipe, closed the structure with it;
The top of the chimney increased to a meter height;
The sides protruding along the perimeter, including the steel layer of the intermediate sheet, drilled with a drill drill with a diameter of 10 mm;

In the resulting holes threaded the corresponding bolts, and screwed nuts with washers on top of them. Tighten each connection tightly;

For the lower combustion chamber picked up the grate so that it fits snugly between the walls, and at the same time there is still 150 mm left to the bottom. If you have problems with an object of a suitable size, then weld metal corners on the sides;

Decoration of the perimeter and facade

In the state that the furnace had after the end of its assembly, it gave off too much heat energy environment, did not look aesthetically pleasing and was a somewhat shaky structure. So I did the following:

Mixed mortar of cement and sand using a ratio of one to three. I used a drill for this in tandem with a special nozzle in the form of a whisk;

He erected brick walls behind and on the sides of the furnace. Brick has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, now more heat will go up to the cooking dishes;

For the facade, I sawed out curly under the contours of the halves of the font with a grinder metal sheets. Then:

In the canvas intended for the lower furnace part, I cut out a small hole, just such that the prepared firewood could freely pass into it, and installed a door;
In the canvas intended for the upper hob, I cut out a kind of crescent, which covered only the edges of the chamber, and from the rest I made two doors opening in different directions;
The installation of both products was carried out with the help of corners, a drill and bolts.

As an alternative, you can front side up to the level of the cooking chamber overlay with bricks. Only in this case, then it is necessary to install doors for the blower and firebox into the masonry. The upper compartment is then closed simply by a large steel flap with a handle.

Stage number 4: finishing

Here I had two tasks:

Insulate the furnace structure even more;
Decorate the building, making it an excellent addition to the country interior.

And I started:

Kneaded a solution of clay and sand in a ratio of one to two;

You can also add some lime to the batch. This will reduce the risk of cracking during the hardening of the finishing layer.

Covered the cooking compartment with steel mesh, the cell size of which is 20 mm, and fixed its edges on the brickwork using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Now the clay plaster applied from above will not slip on a smooth cast-iron surface, but when dried, it will have sufficient strength;
By this time, the mixed mixture had reached the desired consistency, and with the help of a spatula I applied the first finishing layer who did not iron;

After the clay has set, already done fine finish , then moistened the spatula and carefully leveled the created coating. In total, my lining came out with a thickness of about 70 mm;
After curing whitewashed the fur coat, adding similarity appearance structures with old stoves.

Also, in the future, I also want to close the brickwork with ceramic tiles, but in order to save money, I don’t want to specifically purchase expensive materials for this. Therefore, I am waiting for the turn of repairs in the bathroom in the country to come up in order to use the ceramics removed from its walls.

Benefits received

It turned out to be quite possible to make a stove from a cast-iron bath with your own hands, but not so easy. Here and excavation, and the construction of brickwork, and cutting cast iron, and welding, and even finishing. Weak set of tasks. But as a result I:

Gave a second life old stuff that has already served its purpose. There is always some joy in this small victory over time itself, which treats everything in our world mercilessly;

diluted country interior attractive looking design. Of course, it’s worth, nevertheless, to overlay it with tiles, but even now the created structure has very organically fit into the design of my suburban area;
Very good saved on materials used. It is much more profitable to have a working solid fuel furnace on the farm than to get a penny for a cast-iron bath in the acceptance of ferrous metal. Yes, and everything else that I still needed to implement my plans, I for the most part found at home;
Received opportunity for cooking use solid fuel , saving gas and electricity, with the presence of which on some suburban areas and there can be big problems at all;
I was finally able to cook, requiring the special conditions of a real Russian stove, which the erected structure has now provided me;

I began to see friends on the threshold of my dacha much more often those who want to taste something tasty with "hot-hot". In addition, they never come empty-handed, as a result, wonderful feasts come out.

Alternative modifications

In fact, these are even more likely not modifications, but, on the contrary, somewhat stripped-down options that the theme can also be very useful in the economy. Even more than that, both of them can be implemented from the same vessel:

Here, for example, how to make a bath with a cast-iron grill oven? After all, fried meat cooked on an open fire is simply amazing. For this it will be enough:

Take that half of the bath, which is without a hole, and attach another pair of legs to the cut edge for structural stability;
Place a grid of suitable size on top. It is not at all necessary to fix it “tightly”, on the contrary, the removable version is more convenient to use and maintain;
That's it, you add firewood or remove coals through the open facade, put pork, lamb or chicken on top, and heat-resistant cast iron helps to create the temperature you need for frying;

For a bath from a cast-iron tank, you can also make an effective stove:

Lay the bath upside down so that its main part is in the steam room on a pre-prepared concrete base, and the section went into the next room;
Inside, you install a grate with the help of corners, and close the facade with a metal sheet equipped with doors for the firebox and blower;
Mount the chimney pipe with access to the territory of the bath. You can first weld a small horizontal pipe into the front part, and then use the elbow to vertically bring the chimney to the roof;
In the steam room, build brick wall around a cast iron tank at a distance of 10 cm and as high as the tank itself;

The gap between the bricks and the bathroom is filled with stones, which, when heated, will provide the necessary heat.

Conclusion

Do not rush to throw away or scrap an old cast-iron bath, because you can make a wonderful garden stove from it, which will delight you more than once with very tasty and healthy meals, decorate the site and become another reason for your friends to come to visit you. Besides most work you can do with my own hands, assistance will only be needed during transportation and installation of the upper part of the structure.

The video in this article will offer you a number of additional materials that are directly related to the information presented. If you have any questions on the topic, please ask them in the comments.

August 20, 2016

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Cast iron is an ideal material for do-it-yourself personal plot build a stove from a cooking bath various dishes. But since cast iron can be processed only in industrial conditions, then to make something from it with your own hands, you should use finished cast iron products, for example, old bath.

Advantages of cast iron:

resistant to high temperatures;
has a high heat capacity;
not subject to corrosion.

It is quite difficult to make a furnace from a cast-iron bath, this process requires attention and patience, since the bath itself is strong, but has a fragile structure.

Making from an old bath

An oven of this type is two interconnected halves of an old bath, located on top of each other. Therefore, you first have to cut the bath in half.

Attention! Before starting work, remember that cast iron is a very fragile material, and any, even minor damage, can ruin it and make further processing impossible.

To divide the bath into two identical parts, it is best use a grinder, drawing a cutting line in advance and accurately measuring the distance to the edges. Only then can you carefully start cutting the bath. Stock up on a few cutting discs because one might not be enough.

The most important thing to remember is: take your time. If you want to achieve an even and smooth cut edge, you should not rush anywhere.

Main stage: installation of the furnace

The most reliable way to fix the oven and give it stability is. It should be massive enough to ensure the immobility of the entire structure.

After fixing the lower part of the furnace, a sheet of steel about 6-10 mm thick is placed on it.

But keep in mind that the rate of heating of the furnace will depend on its thickness. It is he who will serve as a separation between the firebox and the oven, as well as hob. Also, it is necessary to make a hole in it for the chimney, which will be welded to it later.