Furniture shield from boards. How to make a furniture board. Manufacturing technology of composite shields

To make a table with a solid wood top that will stay flat for as long as the table itself lasts, you must select, prepare, finish and glue the boards correctly. Does the task seem difficult? It's actually not that hard, just follow our guidelines to make a furniture board with your own hands.

Careful choice of material for the furniture board

When choosing lumber for your tabletop, avoid pieces with lots of knots or frizzy grain. Straight grain boards are more stable. Examine the ends of the boards to find out how they were sawn from the trunk. Boards with radial and intermediate cut warp less than boards with tangential cut (so-called ordinary).

This can be explained as follows: when the board is dried, its growth rings, visible at the ends, tend to straighten up. In ordinary boards, the lines of the annual knees resemble rounded hills, and when these hills become flat, the edges of the board rise, causing warping.

Material with straight lines of texture pattern on the face should be preferred - such boards tend to warp less and they are better consistent with each other in the pattern in the board. For more stability, take thick boards with often spaced growth ring lines, indicating a slow growth of the tree.

Narrow growth rings reduce seasonal fluctuations in wood size, and thick boards make the lid more massive, which also contributes to less warping. When processing, try to keep the thickness of the boards as much as possible, especially for a large cover, in which warping will be more pronounced.

Arrange boards for strength and beauty

You may not be able to completely prevent buckling, especially if you use row boards to save money, but you can mitigate this effect by properly positioning them in the backboard. You can choose one of three options:

1. Orient all boards so that the growth rings at the ends resemble hills (top picture). Result: The lid will arch across the width, and its edges will rise up.

2. Arrange all the boards so that the growth rings look like a series of waves or hollows. The result will be the opposite - the shield will become convex in the middle.

3. Alternate the orientation of the growth rings (bottom picture). Result: The lid will be wavy as each board warps in the opposite direction. What is the best location?

If the lid will be attached to the sides (boards that form the frame and connect the legs of the table), we advise you to choose option number 1, since the sides will hold the edges of the lid, limiting their upward movement. If the lid is fixed in the middle, as with tables with a central support, option # 2 will help to cope with warping. The fasteners will hold the shield's core without letting it bend upwards.

Once you've decided on how to orient your boards for stability, don't forget to appearance future cover. Keeping the order of the annual tracks, swap the boards and turn their ends 180 degrees to achieve best result when the texture pattern at the joints of adjacent boards will be perceived as continuous, and the gluing lines will not be noticeable.

Brief advice! After determining the final orientation of the boards, mark them with letters or numbers. If they need to be moved or removed, you can easily restore the previous order.

How to achieve a plane when gluing a shield

Having finished the selection of boards for the cover, divide them into several groups for gluing the shield in parts (keeping the order indicated by numbers or letters), the width of which will allow each of them to be processed using a thicknessing machine.

Brief advice!

Before gluing the boards, it is useful to form ridges and tongues on the edges of the plot boards, which will help to accurately align front sides details. Freed up for work flat surface(e.g. table saw machine), start gluing the individual parts of the shield. After thoroughly drying, process them on thicknesser to the same thickness, and then glue into a single shield.

Note.

Due to the adhesive acting like a lubricant and the pressure of the clamps, parts of the gluing may move, especially if the lid is large. To prevent sagging (differences) from appearing at the junction, use stands and pressure bars, as shown in the photo. After drying, file the cover to the final dimensions and proceed to grinding. Don't stay too long on imperfections and problem areas as you can overdo it and create indentations that will become noticeable after application. finishing coating. The edges of the lid should be given no less attention than its middle.

What should be the pressure bars

Slightly tapering from the middle to the ends, the pressure bars help to compress the middle part of the shield more strongly, where the pressure of the clamps weakens. Lightly planer all four edges, making small tapers at both ends of each block so that a barely noticeable bulge appears in the middle. To prevent the bars from sticking to the shield, we pasted over their edges with ordinary packing tape.

Different breeds warp differently

To achieve even greater success in the fight against warping, it is better to prefer wood that changes its dimensions less than other species with fluctuations in humidity.

Woods such as oak, maple, cherry, and walnut warp slightly, while beech, sycamore, elm, and hickory tend to warp.

For carpentry needs, a fairly wide range of adhesive materials are used: various types of PVA adhesives, polyurethane compounds, epoxy resin, contact adhesive, etc. Selection of the most suitable option adhesives are produced with a focus on the following project features:

characteristics of the tree itself (oiliness, level of adhesion, etc.);
features of the loads that will fall on the seam (including shock and vibration);
conditions in which the product will be used (humidity, temperature changes, exposure to moisture).

You can talk about the working properties and areas of application of the main types of wood adhesives.

How to properly glue wood?

Joiner's adhesives are applied in a thin uniform layer on both surfaces to be joined. The only exception is the technology of gluing wood polyurethane adhesive: in this case, the material is applied to one of the surfaces, and the second is moistened (slightly moistened with water). Applying the composition in excess does not improve the quality of gluing in any way, but only leads to waste of material and smearing of surfaces with squeezed out excesses (by the way, this adds a headache at the finishing stage).

When gluing the thorn-groove joint, only the cheeks of the thorn and the walls of the groove are lubricated with glue. This method of gluing provides the most reliable connection: the joint is glued "tightly" not inferior in strength to the surrounding wood. Applying compound to the hangers does not improve the quality of the bonding, all you get in this case is just the appearance of excess and a waste of time, which is especially valuable with a complex multi-piece assembly.

What is the best way to apply glue?

It is important to distribute the glue over the surface of the tree in an even layer, so you should not be limited to simply squeezing strips out of a bottle or tube. For smearing, a small brush with stiff bristles is usually used. But the simplest toothbrush will turn out to be a more effective assistant: bristles of optimal rigidity will gently and evenly distribute the composition over the surface, providing an optimal adhesive layer.

Is it necessary to degrease surfaces and what is the best way to do it?

When gluing wood to wood, there is no need to degrease the surfaces. Although in some cases, for example, when working with oily rocks, this will not be superfluous. In this case, it is advisable to degrease the tree before gluing with white spirit.

When gluing dissimilar elements: wood with plastic, glass and other materials with low adhesive properties, the degreasing process is more important. Degrease only one of the surfaces, wiping it with white spirit.

How tight should the clamps be?

It is important to understand that the bonding strength does not depend on the amount of clamping force, but on the quality of the surface treatment and their accuracy of fit. It is not necessary to tighten the clamps strongly. A small amount of adhesive seeped through is a sure sign that sufficient down pressure has been created.

The use of clamps is not always advisable. When it comes to gluing small crafts, for example, wooden boxes and boxes for tightening, you can use adhesive tape or masking tape, but, again, subject to well-fitted joints.

How long does wood glue dry?

We spoke in detail about the working properties of the main types of wood adhesives in. To what has already been said, we will add that heat, dry wood and low air humidity are factors that speed up the drying process of the adhesive. cold temperature, high humidity the environment and the wood itself, on the contrary, slow down drying.

How to clean the surface of dried glue?

It makes sense to remove excess glue from the surface of the wood either while it is completely fresh, or when it has completely hardened. By rushing to sand the wetted area of the wood, you are likely to get an even greater aesthetic defect when the fibers deformed by sanding dry. Cured adhesive is cleaned manual grinding(along the fibers) or cut with a chisel.

Before application decorative finishes check if there are any soiled spots on the product. Otherwise, traces of dried glue will appear under the finishing composition. For more effective detection of defects, wipe the surface of the wood with a cloth soaked in white spirit.

Professional tricks for flawless bonding

A tape clamp is an excellent assistant in matters of gluing on a mustache. This clamp evenly distributes pressure on all corner connections, guaranteeing perfect gluing without corner deformation and other defects. The absence of a tape clamp is no reason to refuse the ideal gluing of mustache joints. When gluing large surfaces at home, it is advisable to use a gear distributor. If desired, it will not be difficult to make it with your own hands, for example, from an unnecessary plastic card. Use masking tape to protect the surface from extruded adhesive. Plastic covers used as gaskets will prevent unpleasant surprises in the form of dents in the fixation points. Ribbon and quick clamp will become your assistants when gluing dimensional projects at home.

Making furniture with your own hands is becoming increasingly popular due to the high cost. finished products, and thanks to a large number of source materials that have appeared in the public domain. At home, with a minimum set of appropriate tools, it is possible to assemble viable furniture that will serve properly and please with its appearance. One of the most popular joining methods is gluing, which makes it possible to obtain strong, monolithic parts. Gluing can be used as an independent fastener or as a duplicating one, when using external elements, such as dowels, dowels or self-tapping screws.

Do-it-yourself glued wood

Before gluing, the parts are processed, this is done not only to clean the surface, but also allows you to open the wood pores. When applied, the adhesive composition penetrates through the pores into the structure of the wood, into the intercellular space, and upon solidification forms a set of the thinnest threads(cobwebs), reliably "stitching" the workpieces together. The strength of a correctly made seam exceeds the strength of the wood itself; when testing for fracture, the part breaks not at the place of gluing, but along the whole tree.

Gluing a tree allows you to get products with better parameters than massive ones. In the process of gluing, elements suitable in texture and shades are selected, damaged, cracked and knotty areas are rejected. As a result, the strength of the glued parts is greater than that of the usual one, and by gluing the thinnest veneer onto the front surfaces, the products are given the appearance of the most valuable rocks. Wood glued according to all the rules warps, cracks and cracks much less than solid wood.

How to glue wood. Technology

There are several ways to connect parts when gluing.

Gluing wood onto a smooth joint - joining smooth details without increasing the penetration area.

Gluing on a microthorn - an increase in the penetration area by 2.5 - 5 mm due to the creation of a jagged relief on the part (using a milling cutter).

Bonding on a toothed spike – increase in the penetration area by 10 mm due to the creation of a toothed spike.

Gluing on tongue-and-groove (thorn-groove, dovetail, oblique spike) - additional grip due to the groove connection.

Although in certain situations, when special conditions of use are assumed, grooved and spike connections, in most cases, the parts are glued to a smooth fugue. Modern adhesive compositions penetrate deep into the structure and create a strong seam without additional sampling of wood.

How to glue boards together. Options

The wood to be glued must have a moisture index in the range of 8 - 12%, maximum - 18%. If there is a need to glue wet parts, a special compound is used; during the hardening process, it draws moisture from the wood. When gluing blanks with different moisture content, a difference of more than 2% is not allowed in order to avoid internal stress in the glue line due to deformation of the wetter part. The temperature of the glued blanks varies between 15 - 20⁰С, so the work is carried out in warm rooms(18 - 22⁰С). In the cold, most compositions crystallize, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing and makes the process difficult.

The final preparation of wood (planing, jointing, sanding) is carried out immediately before gluing in order to increase the permeability of the adhesive and avoid warping. It is important not only to select parts according to their dimensions, structure and external data, but also to arrange them correctly.

When gluing along the length, only one type of sawing is used - tangential or radial;
When gluing, both in length and in width, alternation is not allowed different parts wood - the core is laid with the core, sapwood (young, extreme part) with sapwood;
Annual rings of adjacent blanks from boards or bars should be directed in different directions or at an angle to each other from 15⁰.

The standard thickness of furniture panels is 2 cm, but in order to glue wooden shields at home, when choosing boards for a shield, the estimated waste during processing is taken into account, so the workpiece is selected with a thickness of up to 2.5 cm. The excess will be removed during the primary processing, when eliminating defects, and after gluing, when grinding the shield. If you dissolve a board 5 cm thick for a furniture board, you get two blanks with the same texture and shade, which increases the decorative effect of the product. For shields, boards of wood of the same species are selected, up to 120 mm wide, so that it is possible to process the edges of the shield with high quality, the length of the blanks should have a margin (2 - 5 cm).

Adhesives

Adhesives used for the manufacture of laminated wood fall into two main groups.

Synthetic - obtained on the basis of resins or polyvinyl acetate dispersions (PVA). They are characterized by increased strength of the resulting connection, moisture resistance, biostability. The disadvantages include the presence harmful substances, which may stand out in environment during operation and further operation. This is "famous" for compositions based on phenol-formaldehyde resins. Modern PVA dispersions and their derivatives are non-toxic and are commonly used in the domestic area and are considered universal for wood. The bulk of synthetic mixtures are ready for use. The epoxy adhesive needs finishing, to work with it the hardener included in the kit is mixed with epoxy resin.

Natural mixtures - animal, vegetable, mineral. They are safe, give a strong connection, but are produced in the form of semi-finished products that are prepared before use. How to glue a tree with them: when preparing, you must strictly follow the instructions and observe the dosages, otherwise the quality of the glue will not allow you to get a strong connection. To prepare the adhesive, it is usually necessary to dilute the powder concentrate with water to the desired consistency (may require a certain swelling period) or to melt the solid particles. Direct exposure to fire is not allowed, a “water bath” is used, in which the mass with the addition of water after swelling is melted to a homogeneous consistency.

How to glue a tree

When gluing wooden surfaces glue is applied to both parts in an even layer. The thickness of the layer depends on the type of glue, its consistency and the type of surfaces to be glued - the thinner the wood, the thinner the layer. The glue should moisten the part, but not excessively; when connecting the elements, an even roller should stand out. Adhesive streaks are removed from the surface as soon as they grab a little, with a scraper or spatula. Cured excess glue greatly spoils the appearance of parts and complicates their further processing.

How to glue a wooden blank.

After applying the adhesive, the parts withstand a certain period of time, this allows the composition to penetrate deeper, at the same time excess moisture evaporates, the concentration of adhesives increases. During exposure, it is not allowed to air the seam in a draft or dust it. Some types of natural glue (bone, skin) must be applied hot, instantly fastening the parts without aging, since the composition loses its properties as it cools.

Wood Gluing Tool

To obtain the most durable connection, when gluing, the wood is pressed in - compressed by means of special presses. At home, for these purposes, improvised tools and means are used - a vice, clamps, cam devices, metal corner frames with clamping mechanisms. The pressure during wood pressing is maintained in the range from 0.2 to 1.2 MPa. In production, large values are possible, at home such indicators are enough for the structural details to stick together.

Glued wood with your own hands.

Subject to the gluing technology, the adhesive seam is strong and reliable, and, unlike the method of connecting parts with metal fasteners, does not spoil the appearance.

For fans of creating household items on their own, a topic is open on FORUMHOUSE. How to organize a convenient corner for working with wood can be found in the article. The video about wooden elements in a country house shows interesting products made by portal users.

When buying your own home, every happy owner has a question about the improvement of the apartment. Alas, but not always on purchased square meters you can place all the desired furniture. The space in the rooms becomes much smaller, despite the fact that in most cases the goal is to maximize the useful area of the room. Today, an impressive number of factories and shops offer furniture for every taste and wealth, but it does not always meet minimum requirements security. Yes, and it is quite expensive.

You can contact the workshop, where they will not only be able to assemble furniture, but will also help you make competent sketches and drawings.

It is necessary to apply varnish on the structure, preferably in 2 layers.

Of course, you can contact the workshop, where they will not only be able to assemble furniture, but will also help you make competent sketches and drawings. But then again, it won't come cheap. That's why everything more people take on the manufacture of cabinets, shelves and other things on their own. Making furniture with your own hands is an impressive approach to furnishing in terms of adequacy and reasonableness. living rooms, and at the same time good way diversify the interior of the apartment. The best option for the manufacture of cabinets, walls, as well as drawers and shelves will be a furniture board. Especially often this type of material is used to create a cabinet for the kitchen. . The kitchen is the place where the family gathers every evening for dinner, sharing the events of the day. Therefore, it is very important to maximize the usable area in the room, without overloading it with furniture, leaving more free space.

Aesthetically attractive appearance.

REFERENCE. furniture board- material based on natural wood. Produced by gluing bars under pressure. There are several varieties of various types of wood on the market: spruce, beech, oak, pine. Used to make accessories, boxes, shelves, etc.

The kitchen is the place where the family gathers every evening for dinner, sharing the events of the day.

As you already understood, making furniture for the home with your own hands is not only interesting, but also quite simple.

Designs made at home with my own hands from a furniture board, have a number of advantages over factory samples. It does not require expensive equipment, it will be enough conventional tool, which can be found in any owner. You just need to show a little ingenuity, patience and creative approach to the issue - and now you are already the happy owner of a modern and spacious closet or a beautiful dining table for kitchen. So, consider the positive aspects of furniture made from this material.

Aesthetically attractive appearance. Furniture made of wood, significantly outperforms other materials and will decorate any room.
Safety. As mentioned earlier, it is made from a variety of wood species, an environmentally friendly material without impurities and harmful components hazardous to health.
High maintainability. The door broke, the shelf slanted, the countertop deteriorated? No problem. No need to go to the workshop to repair your favorite wardrobe. This can be done with your own hands with minimal financial investment in repairs. Working with a furniture board is much easier than with the same chipboard, due to the fact that the tree forgives some chips and inaccuracies.
Low cost. In all respects, the furniture board is not inferior to furniture made from a cut of wood. At the same time, cabinets, kitchen tables and shelves look no worse and are durable and easy to use.

Furniture board is a material based on natural wood.

It is only necessary to arm yourself with patience, inspiration, necessary quantity the right tools.

The choice of design and possible nuances

First you need to decide on the design of the cabinet or table. It is necessary to take into account the free space of the apartment, which can be used. The next step is to create sketches and drawings. If it is not possible to develop a project on your own, then on the Internet there are a large number of drawings for a variety of design options. Based ready plan detailing, counting the number of required material. In addition, the design plan will help determine what size it is better to purchase furniture panels, how to cut them in order to minimize the amount of waste generated.

Used to make accessories, boxes, shelves, etc.

Based on the desired dimensions and design, it is possible to produce almost any type of structure for the home.

Do not forget about the varnish, selected individually. Due to the fact that a furniture board is still a tree, and a tree needs special care. In order to prevent deformation, swelling of the surface, soaking (this is especially true for kitchen furniture), it is necessary to purchase varnish and cover the surface with it at least 2 times. In addition, the varnish will protect surfaces from negative impact ultraviolet rays and will give a presentable appearance. Today, the construction market offers a variety of varnishes, not only in a variety of colors, but also in textures. The same can be said about stains, which are successfully used in the processing of wood products.

Do-it-yourself designs made at home from a furniture board have a number of advantages over factory samples.

Wardrobe, desk or kitchen table, which you can easily do with your own hands, will meet all your requirements and harmoniously fit into the overall home environment.

For the manufacture of almost any designs at home, you will not need a large number expensive tools. In the arsenal of each owner, there is a high probability that there is a screwdriver, Sander, hacksaw and electric drill. With this set of tools, you can easily assemble almost any furniture for the home.

You just need to show a little ingenuity, patience and creative approach to the issue - and now you are already the happy owner of a modern and spacious wardrobe or a beautiful dining table for the kitchen.

The order of work in the manufacture of the cabinet

You can assemble the cabinet with your own hands using the example of the simplest model. This refers to a classic two-door cabinet made of furniture panels for the kitchen with a missing vertical partition. Despite sometimes small size, such furniture can be very roomy and ergonomic. After the preparatory work to make a future cabinet, you will need to cut out everything necessary details and parts. This procedure is performed using a jigsaw and a power saw. To assemble a double wardrobe you will need:

doors - 2 pcs.;
2 side walls;
1 back wall;
the required number of shelves (the size of the shelves may vary).

As mentioned earlier, it is made from a variety of wood species, an environmentally friendly material without impurities and harmful components hazardous to health.

When all the main parts and the frame are ready, you can start assembling. First, you need to take into account the drawers and shelves that will fit in the closet. To do this, it is recommended to leave 775 mm of width when cutting the sheet. Next, it is necessary to fasten the 2 side parts of the wall and the bottom with self-tapping screws. It is best to fasten the structure at a distance of 50 mm from the floor. After the manipulations, it is necessary to start cutting and installing shelves and drawers. Most the best option for this, a narrow furniture board will become, the holes in which are best done in increments of 100 mm. This is done to avoid deformation of the material during the assembly process. When the drawers and shelves are ready, they must be screwed into the cabinet itself with screws. Next, you need to install a cover on the frame, fix the back of the wall and fix the base on the corners. As for doors, it is recommended to use a surface of at least 400 mm. Holes for hinges are made in the doors, the doors themselves are fixed with self-tapping screws to the side walls.

High maintainability.

Assembling a desk from a furniture board

There is nothing difficult in making a multifunctional, compact and comfortable desk from a furniture board with your own hands. As with the cabinet, a sketch and drawing of the desired type will be required before fabrication of the structure can begin. For manufacturing you will need:

square;
plywood (thickness should not exceed 20x20 mm);
parts of the bar and plywood.

In all respects, the furniture board is not inferior to furniture made from a cut of wood.

You can assemble the cabinet with your own hands using the example of the simplest model.

To assemble the optimal version of the table, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances and calculate the required number of niches, shelves and drawers. The size is chosen according to individual preferences and room capacity. It is better to start the production of the table with the manufacture of the countertop. To do this, you need to use a large shield and cut a blank out of it. Pay Special attention on the corners of the tabletop, which must be processed and reinforced with bars before assembly. After processing the corners of the tabletop, it will not be superfluous to round off the most protruding parts. This will not only give the table an aesthetically pleasing appearance, but also make it less traumatic for all family members. After the countertop, you need to start making drawers, shelves and doors. Two squares 70x70 in size are cut out of plywood and cut in such a way that 4 triangles are obtained from them. These elements are placed on the back of the frame wall. Based on the finished drawing, shelves and drawers should be placed in specially designated places on the table. The boxes must be screwed with self-tapping screws almost into the finished part of the structure, and then proceed with the installation of the doors. It is necessary to apply varnish on the structure, preferably in 2 layers. The final stage in the assembly will be the installation of pre-purchased fittings, and the desk is ready for use.

First you need to decide on the design of the cabinet or table.

When all the main parts and the frame are ready, you can start assembling.

Shield computer desk

In this case, the principle of making a table is slightly different from the previous one. It is necessary to use 3 sheets, the size of which will be 2000x200x18 mm. This is the most optimal size due to its strength and therefore durability. When making a table you will need:

edged board (size is selected at will);
plywood parts.

On the basis of the finished plan, details are made, the amount of material needed is calculated.

The best option for this would be a narrow furniture board, the holes in which are best made in increments of 100 mm.

As in the case of a desk, work before assembly must begin with the preparation of the countertop, which is cut out of the shield in accordance with the measurements made earlier and the prepared drawing. On the side surfaces, it is recommended to make two small recesses in order to place the table strictly against the wall, avoiding unnecessary gaps along the edges of the tabletop. On a vertical wall, the best option would be to install a transverse panel. Installation is carried out with self-tapping screws on the frame. The cross panel and the presence of plywood will help to give the table rigidity and strength. After that, a frame for shelves and drawers is made, parts of which are attached to an already finished structure. It is preferable to make as many boxes as possible on this type of furniture for greater spaciousness. To build the upper shelves with the required number of drawers, the shield must be sawn, attaching it to the countertop with self-tapping screws. For drawers and shelves, it is better to use roller mechanisms. As for the part for the keyboard, it is made of a shield, the size of which is 40 mm. Next, it makes sense to proceed with the installation of doors. After preparing all the components, varnishing should be done, after which the final assembly is carried out.

Today, the construction market offers a variety of varnishes, not only in a variety of colors, but also in textures.

Holes for hinges are made in the doors, the doors themselves are fixed with self-tapping screws to the side walls.

Finally

As you already understood, making furniture for the home with your own hands is not only interesting, but also quite simple. It is only necessary to arm yourself with patience, inspiration, the necessary number of necessary tools, to make necessary calculations and drawings. Based on the desired dimensions and design, it is possible to produce almost any type of structure for the home. A wardrobe, desk or kitchen table, which you can easily make with your own hands, will meet all your requirements and harmoniously fit into the overall home environment.

Low cost.

The size is chosen according to individual preferences and room capacity.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself kitchen. Solid wood. (Pine) Kitchen from a furniture board. Kitchen cabinets..Part#1

Quite often, a furniture shield is required for work - this wood material, used for the production of furniture or decorative elements, as a rule, glued from a set of rectangular blanks, and these blanks are glued together at the ends so that the shield is a flat areal material. There are a lot of options for assembling shields - this is a simple end gluing and assembly on various dowels and a dovetail. In this article we will focus on the manufacture of not quite an ordinary shield, or rather, on its further processing.

Tool and material for assembling a furniture board

To work, we need the following set of tools:

Bulgarian with a saw blade and a device for cutting grooves;
Sander (belt or eccentric);
End saw;
Hand tools: Clamps, planer, pencil, etc.

Material

Solid wood (for example, pine);
Joiner's glue.

Shield manufacturing technology

We divide all our work into two main stages:

Shield Assembly
Shield handling.

Shield Assembly

In fact, at this stage everything is pretty standard and there is probably nothing particularly fundamentally new here, but, nevertheless, let's go over the standard technology one more time.

1. Dissolve the array into blanks

The standard and simplest procedure is to dissolve into blanks of the required size.

2. Align the height of the workpieces

We pass our workpieces through to even out their height and make the parallelism of the surfaces as accurate as possible.

3. We plan the ends

4. Marking spikes

5. Saw grooves for spikes

6. Bonding the shield

And, as always, we need to clamp our entire structure very well with clamps to ensure minimal gaps and a snug fit of the gluing planes. It is also important to pay attention to the fact that at the moment of fixing the shield does not lead, and it does not arch. To do this, we fix it with a lot of clamps in different planes.

Embossing the shield

1. Primary processing of the shield

2. Preparation of the circular

And now the most interesting begins - we wake up sawing across. To do this, you need to make a parallel (already even perpendicular!) Emphasis that will not go along saw blade, but across. Since, of course, such an element is not provided for by standard configurations, we will accordingly make it ourselves from a simple board pressed with clamps to the saw table.

4. Making the relief of the shield

Now you gradually need to start grinding off the extreme part of the board, moving the workpiece across the saw blade. Each time increasing the reach of the saw blade, the volume of wood removed will increase accordingly, forming a relief. This operation must be carried out sequentially with each side of the workpiece so that there is a uniform removal of volumes. Below are some photos from different angles, so that everything is completely clear.

Shield surface treatment

Then cover the surface chemical composition- these can be varnishes (glossy or matte), impregnations, tinting stains, etc. - the choice of impregnating composition is the topic of a separate article.