From time immemorial, fundamental parts such as a motor, a filter and a dust collector have been used in such a technique as a vacuum cleaner. Household helpers with bags are not suitable for cleaning in rooms where repairs are being made or in your own workshop, because they are unable to hold fine dust, and filters and dust collectors quickly fail. Therefore, repair teams purchase expensive construction vacuum cleaners to deal with garbage, and mount special installations with a cyclone for collecting and settling dust. And craftsmen can mount a cyclone filter with their own hands, which a household vacuum cleaner can work with, even with a paper bag.
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Air with dirt from the hose through the nozzle enters the cyclone body cylindrical shape. The pipe is attached to the body along a tangent line, so the air flow forms something like a spiral. Centrifugal force carries debris and dust to the inner walls of the device, then they settle in the dust collector due to gravity. Air with tiny dust particles that cannot be subjected to centrifugal force enters another chamber onto the membrane to complete cleaning and enters the intake fan.
After cleaning the dirt storage tank pour out, the membrane is cleaned if necessary.
Therefore, you can put such a vacuum cleaner in a carpentry workshop to use homemade vacuum cleaner cyclone type for collecting sawdust at the end or during work.
Features and pros and cons
So, unlike counterparts equipped with bags, the cyclone method of separating dust from a vacuum cleaner will have the following advantages:
- Constantly high working power, because the unit is not clogged with debris.
- Ease of maintenance of a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone device, as homemade filter for a vacuum cleaner it is easy to clean, wash if desired, no need to buy additional bags.
- The machine's engine is running optimal mode, without unnecessary stress, due to which it lasts longer due to the freedom of air movement in the dust container.
- The assembled do-it-yourself cyclone filter also has some disadvantages:
- It is difficult for an apparatus with this type of filtration to collect hair and wool, threads into the drive. They often end up on the membrane following the cyclone.
- The quality of cleaning depends on the suction power, so it is necessary to select a more powerful engine.
- The plastic parts of the unit accumulate static electricity, so its body can give a little unpleasant electric shock when touched.
Based on this, assembling a home-made vacuum cleaner for a home workshop or making a cyclone filter for a construction vacuum cleaner itself will be the best choice in terms of costs.
How to make a cyclone with your own hands
Today, the Internet offers many variations with detailed description of how you can make cyclone filters for a vacuum cleaner from improvised materials. In some cases, you will need certain machines and fixtures, but not everyone who wants them has them, so we offer you a simpler option.
Necessary materials from which you can make a cyclone:
- Plastic barrel for liquid (3-5 l.);
- Automobile filter in the form of a cylinder;
- Sewer pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose;
- Corrugated hose, similar diameter;
- Thin steel, its trimmings and corners from brackets and fittings;
- Nuts, screws;
- Nylon stocking.
Collection process
- On the lid of the container inside we install a filter bracket cut from steel strips so that the filter fits snugly against the cover to prevent dirt from entering the outlet pipe with air.
- On the other side of the cover, we hermetically install an outlet pipe for the outlet of purified air from the cyclone to the vacuum cleaner. The factory filter must be left.
- We install a galvanized sheet bumper around the car filter, it can be in the shape of a cone in order to shake it out less often. We pull a stocking on top of the filter to protect against light particles of debris.
- We insert the inlet pipe along a tangent line into the wall of the barrel with a slight slope to the bottom in order to immediately set the required trajectory for the incoming air.
- Because plastic barrel not designed for high vacuum loads due to the thinness of the material, its walls can be reinforced with a steel strip to prevent collapse.
- Install the lid on the barrel.
The main thing during the assembly of the vacuum cleaner from the barrel is careful sealing in all places where the nozzles are attached, screw connections, because the vacuum effect will decrease due to the slightest air leakage, and the flow will form a poor-quality vortex.
Very often when installation work with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. First of all, this is due to the processes of wall chasing.
You can’t use home-made household models for this business, otherwise you will ruin them on the very first day of work. Their dust containers will fill up very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself will overheat.
Only professional craftsmen who daily earn this type of activity can afford to buy a building one, which costs quite a lot of money. 
But what if you are not a builder and you need such a device only to complete the repair of electricians in your apartment? In this case, there is only one optimal way out - to independently make a construction vacuum cleaner from an ordinary one. 
Moreover, in time for such an alteration, it will take you only a few minutes. And the materials that are required for this can be easily found in the pantry, or purchased in addition at the nearest plumbing store.
Let's take a closer look at two very similar ways that nevertheless have design differences between themselves.
Homemade cyclone from a household vacuum cleaner
The first method has been presented on the Internet and on YouTube for quite some time. You can easily find many videos with similar homemade cyclones.
However, they cause quite legitimate questions and skepticism among professional builders. Therefore, you should immediately make a reservation that they are suitable for the most part for cleaning wood shavings. 
But it is better not to work with cement dust with such devices. Under it, the second option is more “imprisoned”. 
The main "trick" that will allow you to calmly suck in kilograms of garbage, wood, metal filings and at the same time not worry about the frequent change of filter bags is a home-made "separator".
It will then need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:
A bucket of Shitrok putty is best here. It is harder to flatten it with a vacuum.
First of all, drill or carefully cut out in the center of the bucket lid through hole under the phone. 
Mark the second hole closer to the edges of the cover, where the stiffener is. 
If you do not have a special crown, then first pierce the intended circle with an awl and carefully cut it with a clerical knife. 
The edges will be uneven, but they can be processed with a round file. 
Two sewer outlets are inserted into these holes. So that they hold securely and there is no additional air leakage, it is better to glue them.
To do this, first sand the edges of the tube with sandpaper or a file to create a rough surface. 
Do the same operation with the lid.
After that, insert the tube inside the cover and apply a thick layer of glue with a thermal gun. 
Don't feel sorry for Clay. This will help create good tightness in these places and tightly close all the cracks. 
There is really another option in which you can do without glue and fan pipes at all. To do this, purchase rubber adapters from Leroy Merlin.
They come in different diameters. Choose according to your hose size. 
For example, a tube from a 35mm hose is tightly inserted into a 40/32 coupling. But in a 40mm pipe it will hang out. We'll have to wind up something and collective farm.
On the tube that is on the edge of the cover, put on sewer outlet 90 degrees. 
On this, the design of the separator can be said to be almost ready. Install the lid with taps on the bucket. 
The air intake hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the central hole. 
And the piece with which you will collect all the garbage and dust is stuck into the corner joint. 
It is desirable that o-rings be present in the tubes according to the size of the corrugated hoses of the vacuum cleaner.
This completes the entire assembly. You can plug the vacuum cleaner into the network and use it.
Here is a visual video from the inside of a bucket of a similar design. It clearly shows how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner.
The principle of operation here is the following. Coarse dust sucked into the container falls to the bottom of the container. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where the air is pumped out directly.
Three factors help in this matter:
- gravity
- friction
- centrifugal force
They then make the garbage rotate inside the bucket, clinging to its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the fine fraction goes directly into the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner. 
Typically, such a cyclone on factory designs has the shape of a cone, but cylindrical specimens also often do a good job with this task. 
True, the higher the bucket, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct pairing of the design of the container and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is a sign from Chinese cyclones correct selection diameter of hoses and power of units. 
In cylindrical buckets, the entry of the tangential air flow is not through a curvilinear side wall but through a flat cover. It is much easier to assemble such a device.
Also, if you have several buckets, you can use them one by one. Just take the cover off one and put it on the other. And this is even easier to do than in bulky cyclones. 
If you have a powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic bucket from under emulsion paint, it is better to use a metal tank of the same shape. Otherwise, the bucket will collapse and flatten it. 
The power regulator comes to the rescue in this case. If it is of course present in your model.
Why does the vacuum cleaner still fail?
With this method, all fine dust will enter the vacuum cleaner bag, and more or less large fractions will simply settle and remain in the bucket. As homemade assure, more than 95% of construction waste settles in the separator and only 5% goes directly into the dust collector of a household vacuum cleaner.
However, the thing is that even these 5% can gradually kill the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even for industrial cyclones, the declared efficiency is rarely more than 90%, and what about do-it-yourself products in which aerodynamics are far from perfect. 
For 100% collection of fines, an electrostatic precipitator or bubble column is needed.
By the way, from some types of dust, there is a very strong static voltage. Be careful while working.
The longer you work with the unit without disconnecting it from the network, the higher the charge can be. Here, read the instructive commentary of one real user of such a homemade product. 
Therefore, on many cyclones, even factory assembled, the flange is grounded.
Five percent of small wood shavings is certainly not terrible for a household vacuum cleaner. And if it will be fine cement dust during gating? 
Such particles, when they get inside, tightly clog the filter.
And it happens very quickly. The entire efficiency of the "cyclone" drops by at least 2/3 within a matter of minutes.
The main problem is in the dust bag. It is dense, and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for waste from plaster and concrete walls. 
What to do? Is it really impossible to do without a real construction device? With intensive work, only an expensive and professional tool really saves.
What is the difference between a construction vacuum cleaner and a conventional vacuum cleaner
But for occasional work, this design could be tweaked and improved a bit. Idea belongs Shayter Andrey.
Before we consider the second design option, ask yourself the question: "What is one of the main differences between household and construction vacuum cleaners?"
In domestic models, cooling occurs due to the intake air. 
That is, you vacuum the floor, the air sucks in the garbage. Next, it is filtered and the engine itself is cooled. Then the air is expelled outside.
This is where the risk of engine damage comes from. Firstly, when the filter is clogged, the cooling of the engine drops sharply.
Secondly, cement dust is not 100% retained in the dust collector, and part of it flies through the windings, along the way removing varnish insulation like emery. Such dispersed dust kills everything rubbing and spinning. 
Adding water to the bottom of the tank doesn't help much. Instead of dust, you will get a lot of dirt, the weight of a bucket, and the filters will still end up clogged.
In professional devices, the engine is cooled separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not so afraid of bags completely clogged with garbage. 
Moreover, they also have automatic cleaning or shaking. 
In order to change the mind household model, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.
A working version of a construction vacuum cleaner from a household
Main additional element here - filter bag out nonwoven fabric. Copies from the company Karcher fit very well - article 2.863-006.0 
Actually, this filter is disposable. Your task is to make a reusable element out of it.
To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a little, slightly reducing the width (up to 22 cm).
Next, this lower part must be closed with a special lid. You make it from two elements of a plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene pipe. 
Cut the tube lengthwise, with a slot width of about 5 mm.
Attach them with the back side to the fabric at the bottom. 
Then thread the prepared tube through the slot. 
As a result, from a disposable you have a reusable filter bag. And much bigger size than the one installed inside the household model. 
Next, you do the previously discussed steps to upgrade the bucket. Drill holes in the lid and insert rubber corrugated adapters into them. 
One will be for connecting the filter bag, the other for the hose. Choose the sizes according to the diameters of your devices.
Here you can do without fan pipes and corners. Next, put on the plastic insert from the reusable filter onto the adapter. 
It remains to tightly close the lid on the bucket. The structure is ready to go.
Although it is similar, it differs from the first option above. After you turn on the unit and start sucking in the garbage, it is the home-made reusable dust collector that will collect all the muck and dirt in itself. 
Dust will not fly around like in the previous case. On the contrary, this bag will inflate inside the bucket from the air flow.
Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and fine fractions, which could be missed by the cyclone. 
However, do not forget about clogging the walls of the reusable filter and reducing the draft of the cooling air flow. In order not to burn the engine of a household vacuum cleaner, one more measure must be taken.
How not to burn a household vacuum cleaner
Most modern models there is a built-in safety valve. It indicates when the filters are already clogged and at this moment additional air flow opens.
Indeed, this is considered emergency. Your task is not to wait until this valve is triggered, but to use a slightly different trick.
Some devices have a draft regulator directly on the handle in the form of a hole that opens or closes. It just the same and should be slightly opened for any type of work. 
If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional hole with a diameter of 12mm in the bucket lid itself.
And most importantly, do not forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you upgrade it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to record the start time and do not work longer than the prescribed period.
I mean, just take breaks. At least in order to shake the homemade filter. And he just shakes himself with a bucket.
When the dust container is substantially full, open the lid of the bucket and with a slight movement pull the tube out of the guides at the bottom of the bag. 
It will open up and the debris with dust can be removed. After that, collect the entire structure back and work on. 
The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fillings. After that, cement dust in the fabric itself begins to strongly slow down the air flow.
You will either have to replace the filter with a new one, or not just shake it, but thoroughly clean it of any fine debris and continue working as if nothing had happened.
Keep your lungs healthy. If you're into woodworking, you know that a carpentry shop, no matter how small, needs a dust extractor. Make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands.
Many say that the heart of the workshop is hand saw, others say that it is a table, a band saw, planer etc.
Whatever the heart is, it's safe to say that the lungs of the workshop are the dust collector.
Most of the wood blocks you work with are heavy enough to fall on the floor. But wood dust and sawdust fly in the air you breathe. These small particles can easily enter your lungs and pose a serious health hazard.
There are many ways to protect yourself. Dust masks (not cheap but work well), inexpensive paper respirators (not very safe but better than nothing). You can install air filter on the ceiling (dust needs to go through your face level before getting into it, so it's good for cleaning after work), and finally there are dust collectors, which can be complex or simple (if you can afford it, they very good to some extent).
Whether or not your dust collection system is good, there is still dust in the air that has escaped the system, especially if you are sanding or cutting something. You want something easy to use, portable, and powerful enough to dust your tools. This is where a vacuum cleaner comes in handy.
The problem with commercial vacuum cleaners is that if you connect them directly to the tool, the filters will clog within 10 minutes. They are also not easy to clean, even if you increase the collection capacity.
An alternative to this is to have an intermediate system between your tool and the vacuum cleaner, namely a cyclone.
The cyclone dust bucket collects 99% of the dust that accumulates at the bottom, leaving the vacuum cleaner almost dust-free and clean.
My homemade vacuum cleaner filter is very inexpensive and effective. construction vacuum cleaner cost me less than 2000 rubles, and it is easy to build on the weekend.
Step 1: List of materials and drawings
List of materials:
- 1 vacuum cleaner (1600W+)
- 1 plastic bucket 20 liters
- 1 metal (tin) bucket 20 liters
- 1 plastic funnel
- 1 PVC pipe about 30 cm long
- 2 pipe couplings
- 1 90 degree water fitting
- 4 nuts, bolts and washers
- 8 screws
- fast acting epoxy adhesive
- some kind of primer
- 2 pieces of plywood 0X30X18 mm
Blueprints:
Above is a drawing that I followed when designing a cyclone nozzle for a vacuum cleaner.
Step 2: Cyclone System
The cyclone system consists of two stages.
The first step is a plastic bucket with top cover, fittings and funnel. The second stage is a metal bucket that is attached under the plastic one and collects dust and waste.
The two steps are connected to each other with standard clamps that come with the buckets.
Step 3: First Stage - Top Cover
Before buying any fittings, be sure to check the end of the flexible hose of your vacuum cleaner and buy the right diameter (not all vacuum cleaners have hoses and ends of the same diameter).
Take the lid of the top plastic bucket and make a hole in the center the same diameter as your pipe (the long pipe will sit here) and one hole in the side of the lid (the elbow fitting will be here).
Insert the sleeve into the first hole and seal it - there will be a long pipe here (use PVC glue or epoxy). Make sure the pipe is perpendicular to the cover.
You can cut a long pipe if you need to, and after the first test, if there is dust in the vacuum, it will be good to drive it deeper, to the wooden ring.
Insert the sleeve into the side hole and glue. After the glue has dried, insert a 90 degree elbow fitting into it so that the fitting is parallel to the walls of the plastic bucket. This will give a cyclonic circular action to the incoming dust. Make sure there are no leaks. If you feel holes, fill them with epoxy or silicone.
Additional modification:
If plastic cover too soft, like mine, you can add two circles of chipboard with a diameter of about 22 cm and a thickness of 6 mm for support. The wooden circles are located under the cover, and I tightened them with 4 bolts.
This gives me extra strength and an advantage if I want to add two more 90 degree elbow fittings and put in longer PVC pipes to minimize the use of flexible hoses and improve airflow and pressure drop.
Step 4: First Stage - Funnel
Show 4 more images
To insert the funnel, you need to cut a wooden disc/ring from one of the pieces of wood. The wooden ring should fit into the plastic bucket (the inner disk that remains after the ring is cut is used later).
The outer diameter of the disc should be such that the disc fits about halfway tightly into the bucket, and the inner diameter should be wide enough so that the funnel can sit in the ring. I cut out the ring with an inverted jigsaw on my workbench and then cut it to a perfect circle using grinder. Insert the ring into the bucket to check.
Do not do the following things until the second stage is completed!
After the second step, I'll put the wooden ring inside the plastic bucket (about mid-height or slightly deeper), so that the end of the funnel will protrude from the bucket's hole. I screwed the wooden ring on the outside with 8 self-tapping screws.
In my version, I trimmed the funnel slightly so that its end hole was not too narrow (so the dust could escape down easier) about 4 cm in diameter, and then glued the pipe to secure the element.
Now it's getting harder. I glued the edge of the funnel to the edge of the wooden ring and then added
primers to make a slope towards the center of the funnel, for better dust movement down. Since I couldn't find a proper primer, I opted for a polyester primer that could bond to both wood and plastic. Other than the ugly color (black) and diluted dirt (use gloves), it works fine.
Note. If I do this again, I will use less hardener than suggested so I have more time to mold and smooth the surface, even if it takes longer to dry.
This polyester filler gave me a surface that I covered with a softer, whiter finish. With a damp cloth, I managed to smooth the surface so that the dust flowed into the funnel.
One more idea. I am told that it is not easy to find a large enough funnel. There is a solution here. You can go to any car accessory store and buy a street/traffic cone and then cut it to size for your bucket. This will work too.
Step 5: Second Stage - Bottom Bucket and Top Metal Lid
The plastic bucket should sit snugly over the metal one. Here's how we'll do it. We will need 2 pieces of circular plywood or chipboard to support and connect the plastic bucket to the metal bucket lid.
We cut out two discs about 4/5 the diameter of the bottom of the plastic bucket (we already have one piece left over from cutting out the funnel ring, so only one needs to be cut out).
Accuracy is not very important here, so you can use a jigsaw or a reciprocating saw. I used a jigsaw.
We will place the first circle at the bottom of the plastic bucket and the second one under the lid of the metal one.
Since the two disks have the same hole in the center, we need to make the same holes in the bottom of the plastic bucket and in the lid of the metal one so that the funnel passes through them.
Press the first disk to the bottom of the plastic bucket, and the second one on top of the metal lid and tighten them with 4 bolts, nuts and washers. Now we can connect the two buckets together.
Step 6: Final assembly and test run
Now I can put the plastic bucket on top of the metal one and secure the buckets with a clamp. Insert the flexible hose of the vacuum cleaner into the central connecting pipe, and the second hose (I found it in an old vacuum cleaner) into the side pipe, turn on the vacuum cleaner and let the cyclone work. All dust falls into a metal bucket, leaving the vacuum cleaner clean.
Don't forget to wear a mask when you empty the bottom bucket. No need to breathe this dust.
Step 7: Addition
Moving a cyclone and a vacuum cleaner around the workshop is not a very easy task, so I think that a rolling cart can be practical and useful.
The construction of the cart is very simple and can only be built with plywood. There are no dimensions here, because you will have to adjust the dimensions to fit your dust container.
I will only say that the base is made of two sheets of plywood, the top of which has a hole in which a bucket sits.
You can also add Velcro to secure the vacuum cleaner and make two wooden handles on a plastic bucket so that it does not fall when emptying the lower bucket.
Today we will tell you about the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's completely simple.
What is a cyclone and why is it needed
In the workshop, there is almost always a need to remove garbage of a sufficiently large fraction. Sawdust, small scraps, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but with a high probability it will quickly become unusable. In addition, there will be no superfluous opportunity to clean and liquid waste.
The cyclone filter uses an aerodynamic swirl to bind the specks different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the garbage manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at a sufficient speed.
Such filters are included in the kit of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost cannot be called affordable for the layman. At the same time, the range of problems solved with the help of homemade devices, not at all anymore. A handicraft cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planers, perforators or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or chips from different kind machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.
Difference Between Wet and Dry Cyclone
To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the tank does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the tank or tangentially to the walls. exhaust channel according to a similar principle, it is recommended to make it swivel, optimally if it is directed to the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.
As already mentioned, cyclone filter potentially capable of removing liquid waste. With a liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and the cyclone is partially rarefied, which contributes to the evaporation of moisture and its breakdown into very small drops. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.
In most washing vacuum cleaners, air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so that any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility the minimum amount alterations to use such a scheme is not recommended.
We make from improvised materials
The most simple and affordable option for the capacity of the cyclone there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 watts.
The bucket lid must be intact and hermetically put on the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be finalized by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the desired diameter is to use homemade compasses. IN wooden lath you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.
The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, it is desirable that they be as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic scratch excellently in this way. homemade tool, forming even edges with virtually no scoring.
The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. In advance, we draw your attention to the fact that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The knee is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is pre-applied under the side.
- WITH reverse side a rubber o-ring is pulled onto the socket with force. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.
The inlet pipe is located with a narrow turning part inside the bucket, the socket is on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee must be provided with another turn at 45º and directed obliquely down and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with the expectation of wet cleaning, the extreme elbow should be increased by cutting the pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.
The exhaust pipe is located in the opposite position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one knee into it so that the air intake occurs at the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Do not forget about the o-rings, for more reliable fixation and to prevent turning of the knees, they can be wrapped with plumbing tape.
How to adapt the device for machines and tools
To be able to draw in waste when working with hand and stationary tools, a system of adapters is required. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the nozzles for power tool dust bags. IN last resort, you can seal the connection with several layers of double-sided tape for mirrors, wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.
With stationary equipment, everything is more complicated. Dust vents have a very different configuration, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:
- If the dust extraction of the machine is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a diameter of 50 mm to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
- For docking with a dust trap of home-made machines, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
- When designing the dust collector cover and outlet, use the convection current created by the moving parts of the tool to greater efficiency. For example: a branch pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be tangential to the saw blade.
- Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a cutter. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.
Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use
Usually, a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone is not chosen independently, but the one that is available is used. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.
The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally fit the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, a shorter segment must be joined to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer section, in this form, is refueled into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or sanitary duct tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with the o-ring.
In the video, another example of the manufacture of a cyclone for dust removal in the workshop
To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the extreme part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it in. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hair dryer or an indirect flame. gas burner. The latter is considered great option, because in this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving stream.
A home vacuum cleaner is so familiar to the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used exclusively possible way separation of dust from clean air- filter.
Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that hold the smallest particles of debris. At the same time, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.
Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.
He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. Needless to say, this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal scorch and chip accumulators of the "cyclone" type for a long time.
But no one guessed to apply this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclone type vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.
In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:
- filter membrane. The most massive and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
- Water filter. Air with garbage passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air stream enters the outlet. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to the high cost.
- Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the "cyclone" type. It is a compromise in terms of cost and quality of cleaning in comparison with a membrane and a water filter. Let's take a closer look at this model.
The principle of operation of the cyclone
The illustration shows the processes taking place in the cyclone filter chamber.
Polluted air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The branch pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) is twisted into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.
Under the action of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity, they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest debris particles (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After the final cleaning, they exit to the intake fan (7).
The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All the dirt is simply poured out of the drive, and the vacuum cleaner is ready to work again.
Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive than membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a cyclone-type filter with their own hands, and connect it to the entrance to a conventional vacuum cleaner.
