How to properly organize sewage in a private house - step by step instructions. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: a diagram and rules for the location of the main structural elements Correctly build a sewer

Living in a private house, every owner dreams of creating maximum comfort in it, ensuring a comfortable standard of living. Therefore, it is important to worry in advance about such an important issue as installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands. And below you will learn how to do all the work competently, correctly and not harm the environment.

At self construction sewer system You can save a lot. But it is important to do all the work correctly, taking into account all the requirements for construction and installation work.

Attention! Your site may require drainage, and you can buy everything you need for it at a discount in the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/. But be sure to indicate that you entered from our Remontik website.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should always be made in strict accordance with the layout of your home.

When planning, we recommend to provide for the most compact placement of rooms for which water will be drained and supplied (bathrooms, shower rooms, bathrooms, laundries and kitchens). But the best option is to place it in such a way that all plumbing equipment will be tied to one collector, through which sewage will be drained into a septic tank or cesspool.

In the presence of a large country house, which contains several different rooms with drainage / supply of water located in different parts buildings, experts advise giving preference to such a sewage scheme, in which there will be at least two septic tanks or cesspools. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and the bathrooms, baths and kitchens are on different floors, then you will have to install risers.

Installation of sewerage in a private house. Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a country house or in the country is reduced to the installation of external and internal sewage.

The work on internal sewerage should include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and piping for such premises as a kitchen, shower room, toilet, etc. External or external sewage refers to everything that is outside the house, that is, a system of pipes that go from the house to the station deep cleaning(a rather expensive solution) or to the septic tank itself (with a storage tank or a filtration field).

Of course, if you can connect to centralized system drains, then the task will be greatly simplified. However, below we will consider an autonomous system that includes effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and not such a primitive structure as a cesspool.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

First of all, you need to deal with the internal circuit. Even during the design of the house, care must be taken that all the premises where the sewage will be carried out are as close as possible to each other, since this approach simplifies the scheme of the internal sewage system. Each private house involves the installation of an individual sewerage scheme, which can vary greatly.

Therefore, you must take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm must be used in the toilet for draining. For gray drains entering the sewer from the bathroom or kitchen, it is worth using PVC or PP pipes with a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows that are bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will minimize the possibility of blockage in the future (otherwise, it will be quite difficult to eliminate it).

It is cheaper and more reliable to use polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes in the sewerage scheme. Moreover, arrange internal system sewerage using such pipes is much easier.

First of all, you must decide where the riser or collector pipe will be located, and only then carry out further wiring from it.

But first of all, it is worth figuring out as accurately as possible how to independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, since in the future you can use it to complete the calculation of materials and plumbing equipment that will be needed to install a sewer system in a private house.

You can make a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is better to buy several sheets of graph paper for such a task. In addition, you will need a ruler, tape measure and a sharp pencil.

The sewerage scheme for a private house is drawn up in the following sequence:

First of all, you need to draw up a detailed plan of the house on a scale. If you do not know the dimensions, then you will have to use a tape measure and carefully measure everything.

Next, you need to decide on the location of the risers.

Then, on the plan, you need to mark the locations of the plumbing and decide how they will be connected.

Next, mark the pipes that will go from the riser and fittings to plumbing fixtures, and that's it. connecting elements(bends, tees, etc.).

All of the above should be done for all floors of a country house.

Now decide on the size of the riser and the fan pipe.

Add the entire length of the pipes that belong to the internal sewerage.

Another stage is the external sewerage. It is necessary to draw up its scheme: the location of the pipes coming from the septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet. At the same time, do not forget all the available SNiPs.

Sewerage installation in a private house: choice of pipes

For the reason that the conditions inside the house, as well as outside it, are significantly different, then the pipes for such sewerage systems must be different. Today, PVC or PP pipes are usually used for laying internal sewerage, which are distinguished by their characteristic in gray. For risers and sun loungers, their diameter should be 110 mm, and for the outlet - 40 and 50 mm. However, do not forget that such pipes are used exclusively for internal sewage, and other solutions should be used for external ones.

Typically, pipes that are mounted underground from a septic tank or deep cleaning station to the outlet are orange in color, which is explained very simply - brighter is more noticeable in the ground. Orange color. But the pipes used for external sewage differ from others not only in color, but also in the requirements that apply to them. They have high rigidity, since they have a significant load.

More reliable designs are also offered, a striking example of which are two-layer corrugated pipes. But their laying depth, when maintaining a sewer system, is usually small (usually up to two meters), so there is no need to use them. Most often, red pipes have a diameter of 110 mm, which is quite enough to drain wastewater.

Below we will consider all the disadvantages and advantages of pipes made from different materials among which the most used are:

Cast iron.

Advantages: durable and strong pipes, able to withstand high loads.

Disadvantages: heavy and fragile, expensive, on the inside, as a result of corrosion, roughness may form, which can cause blockage.

Polypropylene.

Advantages: flexible and lightweight, making them in high demand for internal sewage. Cope well with high flow temperatures.

Disadvantages: if you use them for their intended purpose, then they have no disadvantages.

Polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages: reminiscent of cast iron, light and inexpensive. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Cons: not well tolerated high temperature sewage, fragile (crack, do not bend).

Sewerage installation in a private house: pipe laying

Perhaps the most difficult process in the construction autonomous sewerage V country house is piping and piping. If you are going to do this work on your own, then call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also its speed. In addition, we advise you to check the tightness of the system by spilling it with water, and only then, when you are sure of the reliability of all seams, proceed to full operation.

Pipe connection

As mentioned earlier, the easiest option is to use PVC or PP pipes for sewage. Today, a huge number of products are offered on the construction market, so you can easily find revisions, elbows, tees and plastic pipes that are easily and securely connected at the joints, which is ensured by the presence of rubber cuffs. If necessary, all joints are additionally treated with sanitary sealant. Well, where the pipe passes through the ceiling and the wall, we recommend installing a sleeve.

Also, do not forget about the slope of the pipes. Taking into account SNiP, the angle of inclination of a pipe in a non-pressure system directly depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, you need to create a slope of less than 3 cm per 1 meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per 1 meter. Keep this in mind, as different points of the pipeline will have to be laid at different heights to provide the necessary slope.

Sewer outlet

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the external and internal sewage systems, you need to start installing the sewer in a private house from the outlet (the boundary part of the sewer connecting the pipe that leads to the septic tank with the pipe leaving the house).

The outlet must be installed through a foundation that exceeds the depth of soil freezing corresponding to your region. Naturally, you can make the outlet even higher, but you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in winter. If you do not do this, then there is a high probability that you will only be able to use the toilet in the spring, after warmer weather.

If you did not take care of this during the construction of the foundation, then you will have to punch a hole in its structure, into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can easily fit. Moreover, the sleeve is a small piece of pipe with large diameter than the sewer (130-160 mm). It should protrude from both sides of the foundation by at least 15 cm.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say that at the current stage you need to make a hole in the foundation and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Remember that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. The sleeve itself is necessary so that you can set the required slope of the pipe in relation to the septic tank (2 cm per 1 m).

Wiring and installation of the riser

It is good if the riser is in the toilet, since the recommended size of the pipe from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how exactly the pipes will be located - in special boxes, channels, walls and niches or next to the wall (fastening with clamps, pendants, etc.).

To connect sewer pipes with risers, it is worth using oblique tees, and at the joints of pipes of different diameters, adapters must be used. At the intersection of pipes from sinks, showers and baths, you need to install collector pipe, with a diameter of 100-110 mm. At the same time, take care of water seals that will protect the sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

On each riser, it is imperative to mount a special tee with which you can clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, mount the cleaning after each turn of the pipe.

Exhaust pipe outlet

It should be said right away that the output and installation of the fan pipe plays an important role, since it is needed for:

maintaining normal atmospheric pressure inside the system so that air discharge and water hammer do not occur;
increase the durability of sewerage;
ventilation of the entire system, which is required for effective work septic tank.

The fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that leads to the roof. Before connecting the riser and the fan pipe, you need to perform an audit. Then you can bring the pipe to the attic at any convenient angle.

We do not recommend simplifying the work by combining a fan pipe with ventilation or a chimney. In addition, it is necessary to locate its exit as far as possible from balconies and windows (at a distance of at least 4 m). Moreover, the height of the indentation from the roof should in no case be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, house ventilation and a chimney at different levels.

Summing up all the above, we can note the following:

at the first stage, we recommend developing a detailed wiring diagram, minimizing the distance from plumbing to the riser;

it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes going to the riser, in the course of connecting other additional devices (avoid reducing the diameter);

stick to one simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be located to the riser (closest to the riser should be the toilet);

where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision;

in the wiring system for ventilation, there must be a fan pipe.

Installation of external sewerage in a private house

You can equip an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands different ways, which we will discuss below. It is important to correctly choose a system that would fully satisfy the needs.

It is necessary to decide on the scheme for arranging sewerage, taking into account the following factors:

permanent or temporary residence in a private house;
the number of people who live in the house daily;
daily water consumption by one person (depends on the presence of a washbasin, washing machine, toilet bowl, sink, bathtub, shower, etc.);
level of occurrence ground water;
soil structure and type;
the size of your area around the house and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
climatic conditions.

All sewerage systems for a private house can be divided into 2 types:

storage systems (cesspool without a bottom, sealed container);

facilities used for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a filtration field and three or two chambers, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with natural treatment and two overflowing wells, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

Cesspool without a bottom

A cesspool is the oldest and most proven method of sewerage in a private house. Even 50 years ago, this method simply had no alternatives. True, then people did not use as much water as they do today.

A cesspool is the same well that has no bottom. It can make walls out of concrete rings, concrete, brick and other material, leaving the soil as the bottom. After sewage enters the pit from the house, relatively clean water, being purified, will seep into the soil, and fecal matter and organic waste will accumulate, gradually settling to the bottom. When the well is completely filled with solid waste, it must be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, which means that when it was full, they simply buried it and dug a new hole in another place.

It is worth considering the fact that installing sewerage in a private house using cesspool is possible only when the volume of effluents per day does not exceed 1 m 3. Only in this way can soil microorganisms that feed on organic matter have time to process water that penetrates into the soil through the bottom of the pit. In this case, if this norm is exceeded by the volume of wastewater, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will provoke pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated.

If you add microorganisms to the pit, it will reduce the unpleasant odor coming from it, and the cleaning process will be significantly accelerated. But be that as it may, you should not risk it.

Therefore, it is necessary to build a cesspool without a bottom only when the family does not live in a private house permanently, but happens only a few times a week, without spending a lot of water. At the same time, it should be taken into account that groundwater should lie 1 m below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to exclude contamination of the soil and water sources. The cesspool has a low price, but be that as it may, today it is not very popular in modern cottages and country houses.

Sealed container, presented in the form of a storage tank

In this case, a special hermetic container must be installed next to the house, where wastewater. You can buy a ready-made container, which will be made of plastic, metal or some other material. However, if necessary, you can make it from concrete rings with your own hands. The lid is most often made of metal, and the bottom is made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of such a sewer is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, you can use pragma corrugated pipes.

This container must be cleaned. As soon as it is completely filled, you will have to call a sewage truck, which will not be very expensive. The frequency of emptying the tank is directly dependent on the volume of wastewater and the size of the tank. For example, if 4 people live in a house using a toilet, washing machine, bath and shower, then the volume of the storage tank should be at least 8 m 3, and it should be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Therefore, if a high occurrence of groundwater is noted on your site, then it makes sense to use an airtight cesspool to equip the sewerage system at home. Thus, you can protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution.

But the main disadvantage of this system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. So think in advance about the place where the pit will be located in order to provide a convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container is not deeper than 3 meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom.

It is also important that the cover of the storage tank is well insulated, and the pipeline has good protection from freezing. The cost of this container directly depends on the volume and material from which it will be made. The cheapest option is to use used Eurocubes, and the most expensive is concrete pouring or brick. Do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

Single-chamber septic tank - the easiest way to clean the soil

It is worth noting that a single-chamber septic tank is not much different from a simple cesspool. Such a structure is a well, where the bottom is covered with an insignificant layer of rubble (not less than 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is poured over it with the same layer. Otherwise, sewage from the house penetrates through pipes into the well, where water seeps through crushed stone, sand and soil, being cleaned by 50%. Naturally, sand and gravel greatly increases the quality of water treatment, but does not solve this problem radically.

In a private house, it is not recommended to build sewers using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or in the case of a large volume of wastewater. You can use this option for temporary residence and low groundwater levels. In addition, periodically you need to change the sand and gravel, as they become silted.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

The construction of overflow settling wells and filter wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house. Moreover, this option is quite economical and can be installed independently.

Such a sewer system includes two wells: the first has a sealed bottom, and the second does not, but is sprinkled with sand and gravel.

Waste water from the house is fed into the first well, in which solid waste and feces sink to the bottom, while greasy waste floats to the surface. Between these two methods, relatively clarified water is formed. Moreover, the first well is connected to the second one with the help of an overflow pipe approximately 2/3 of its height, which is under a slight slope, allowing water to flow there calmly.

Clarified water enters the second well, which subsequently seeps through the soil, crushed stone and sand, being purified even better.

The first well is used as a sump, and the second one is used as a filter. The first well fills up with feces from time to time and to clean it, you will need to call a special sewage machine. This should be done approximately once every 6 months. To reduce unpleasant odors, add microorganisms that decompose feces to the first well.

The two-chamber septic tank described above can be made on your own from concrete, brick or concrete rings, or you can buy a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, where additional cleaning will be carried out using special microorganisms.

It is recommended to install a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during the flood period, the groundwater level is below 1 meter from the bottom of the second well. If there is sandy or sandy soil on the territory of your site, then this will be an excellent option. However, do not forget that after about 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the second ring will have to be replaced.

Biological or soil treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, including several separate tanks, which are connected by pipes or into two or three sections. As a rule, if you need to install this type of sewer system in a private house, you can buy a ready-made version.

The first capacity of the septic tank is used to settle the drains, as is the case in an ordinary settling well. The partially clarified water then flows into a second tank or section, where all organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. Then brighter water is coming to filter fields.

A fairly large underground area (approximately 30 m 2) acts as a filtration field. This is where primary wastewater treatment takes place. In this case, the water is purified by approximately 80%.

If on your land plot if there is sandy or sandy soil, then this will be an excellent option, otherwise you will have to build an artificial filtration field from crushed stone and sand. Once the water has passed the filtration field, it can be collected in pipelines and directed to drainage ditches or pilot wells. It is forbidden to plant edible trees and vegetables above the filtration field, because in this case you will break a flower bed.

Attention! you can buy drainage wells at a discount in this section of the online store https://www.drenaj-shop.ru/catalogue/drenazhnye-kolodtsy/, if you indicate that you came on our recommendation - the Remontik website.

Over time, the filtration can become silted up and it will have to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. This is a huge amount of work in which your site may suffer.

Installation of a sewerage system with a filtration field is only suitable when groundwater is located at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. At the same time, you must understand that there must be a distance of at least 30 m from the filtration field to water sources and residential buildings.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

Thanks to the deep cleaning station, it is really possible to complete a complete installation of sewage in a private house. And this despite high level ground water.

This station acts as a capacity, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to buy it from a trusted manufacturer, asking professionals about the required volume and equipment. The cost of this septic tank usually starts at $1,200, which is not cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is used to settle water, and in the second, organic residues are decomposed with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed by aerobic bacteria, which require constant inflow air. To ensure such conditions, a pipe is installed above the chamber. It should rise 50 cm above the ground. In that pipe leading from the third to the fourth chamber, a special filter is installed, into which aerobic bacteria actually settle. It turns out a kind of filtering field, but it is more miniature and concentrated.

Due to the small area of water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, water purification is carried out even more efficiently (up to 90-95%). Such purification allows you to use water for watering the garden, washing the car and many other purposes.

From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to the storage tank or to drainage ditch.

For a private house where people live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is an excellent solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is easy - you just need to pour them into the toilet. This cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not need electricity. The downside is that it needs regular maintenance, as bacteria will simply die if left out of the sewage. If you add new bacteria, they will only work after 2 weeks.

Artificial treatment stations - septic tank with forced air supply

This is an accelerated cleaning station where natural processes take place by artificial means. The installation of a sewer system in a country house with an aeration tank is impossible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is required for an air pump and connecting an air distributor.

Such a septic tank has 3 separate chambers or containers that are interconnected. Through the sewer pipe, water enters the first chamber, where it settles and solid waste precipitates. Then the partially purified water passes into the second chamber, which acts as an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of microorganisms and plants, is mixed with water. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic, therefore forced aeration is extremely important for their vital activity.

Then the water is mixed with sludge and goes to the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump. Further, with the help of a special pump, the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank.

Forced air supply provides fast wastewater treatment, and water after treatment can be used for various technical needs (car washing, watering the garden, etc.).

Of course, the aerotank will cost you quite a lot (from $ 3,700), but at the same time it is very useful. When installing sewers of this type there are no restrictions. Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting only the need for electricity, constant maintenance so that the bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then having concluded from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

septic tank with biofilter;

A few general rules for sewerage in a private house

There are certain restrictions on the placement of the sewerage system.

Residential building location:

50 m from aeration treatment plants;
300 m from drain wells and station;
25 m from the filter field;
8 m from the filter well.

Septic location:

not less than 20-50 m from any water sources (well, well, pond);
not less than 10 m from the garden.

Before proceeding with the installation of sewerage in a private house, you must make its project. You should not work without it, since sewage is such a system in which approximation is unacceptable. It is better to contact a design bureau or architects who will help create a quality project, taking into account the climate, operating conditions, soil and site. It's good if you do a sewerage project along with a house project even before construction.

All work on the installation of the sewer system is not difficult. You only need to properly dilute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For ground work, you need to hire an excavator, although you can do it yourself. The main is the development of the project and right choice sewer systems.

Living in a private house, you want to create maximum comfort for your family in it, ensuring a high standard of living, so it is very important to think in advance about such an important issue as sewerage. Sewerage in a private house can be done by hand. This article will help you do all the work correctly, competently and without harm to the environment.

With the independent construction of the sewer system in a private house, you can save a lot, but it is very important to carry out all the work correctly, in accordance with all the requirements that apply to construction and installation work of this kind.

The choice of a sewer system scheme should be made in accordance with the layout of a particular house. When planning a house, it is recommended to provide for a compact placement of premises for which water supply and drainage will be carried out (showers, bathrooms, laundries, bathrooms, etc.). But most the best option there will be such an arrangement in which all plumbing equipment will be tied to one pipe (collector), through which sewage will be drained into a cesspool or septic tank.

Experts advise, in the presence of a large house, which provides for several different rooms with drainage and water supply located in different parts of the building, to give preference to such a scheme of the sewer system, in which there will be at least two (and sometimes more) cesspools or septic tanks. In addition, if your house has two or more floors, and bathrooms, toilets and kitchens are located on different floors, then in this case you will need to install risers.

Types of sewerage

All work on the construction of sewerage in a private house with their own hands is reduced to the arrangement of external and internal sewage. Internal sewerage works include the installation of a fan pipe, a riser and pipe routing to such premises as a shower room, kitchen, toilet, etc. External or external sewerage refers to everything that is located outside the house, that is, a system of pipes going from home to deep cleaning station (rather expensive turnkey solution) or to a home-made septic tank (with a filtration field or storage). Of course, if you have the opportunity to connect to a centralized waste disposal system, then the task will be greatly simplified. But this article will focus on autonomous system, including effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank, and such a primitive method as a cesspool.

First of all, it is necessary to deal with the internal circuit. Even at the stage, it is necessary to think about the fact that all the premises to which the sewerage will be supplied are located as close as possible to each other, since subsequently such an approach will greatly simplify the scheme for arranging the internal sewage system. Each house has individual scheme sewerage, which can be the most diverse.

In this case, one should take into account the fact that pipes with a diameter of 100-110 mm should be used in the toilet to drain wastewater. For gray drains that will enter the sewer from the kitchen or bathroom, PP or PVC pipes having a diameter of 50 mm. All turns must be done using two plastic elbows bent at an angle of 45 degrees, as this will further minimize the possibility of blockage, which is quite problematic to eliminate. It is more reliable and cheaper to use polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polypropylene (PP) pipes in the sewerage scheme, as they are more durable, more reliable and cheaper than cast iron pipes. And besides this, it is much easier to install an internal sewerage system using such pipes.

First of all, it is necessary to decide where exactly the collector pipe or riser will be located, and only then deal with further wiring from it.

But before that, you should more accurately understand how you can independently develop a sewerage scheme for your home, because in the future, according to this scheme, it will be possible to make a complete calculation of all that (plumbing equipment and materials) that you need to equip the sewer system.

You can perform a sewerage scheme on a piece of paper in a box, but it is advisable to purchase several sheets of graph paper for this task. In addition, you will need a tape measure, ruler and a sharp pencil.

For a private house, the sewerage scheme is drawn up in the following sequence:

First you need to draw to scale. If the dimensions of the house are unknown to you, then you will have to walk with a tape measure and measure everything;
then you need to decide where the risers will be located;
after that, it is necessary to mark the locations of plumbing fixtures on the plan and decide how they will be connected;
at the next stage, it is necessary to note the pipes that will go from the fittings and the riser to the plumbing fixtures, as well as all the connecting elements (tees, bends, and others);
all of the above should be done for each floor of your house;
then it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the fan pipe and riser;
now it remains only to sum up the length of all pipes related to the internal sewerage;
the next step will be the external system, on which you need to draw up an external sewerage scheme, which includes pipes going from the deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet. Do not forget to take into account all available and SNiPs.

Since the conditions inside and outside the house are very different, the pipes for these two sewage schemes are used differently. Currently, for laying pipes of internal sewerage, PP and PVC pipes are most often used, which have a characteristic grey colour. For sunbeds and risers, the diameter of such pipes is 110 mm, and for drainage - 40 and 50 mm. But do not forget that these pipes are intended only for internal sewage, and other solutions must be used for external ones.

Most often, pipes that are laid underground from a deep cleaning station or septic tank to the outlet are painted orange, which is explained very simply - a bright orange color is more noticeable in the ground compared to the rest. But pipes for external sewerage differ from the rest not only in color - they have completely different requirements. Such pipes have greater rigidity, since they will have to withstand a significant load while underground. There are more durable structures, an example of which can be two-layer corrugated pipes. But the depth of laying pipes, when constructing a sewerage system for a private house, is usually small (most often up to 2 meters), so there is no need to use such pipes. Red pipes most often have a diameter of 110 mm, this should be enough to drain wastewater from the house.

Cast iron

Advantages: able to withstand heavy loads, durable and strong.

Flaws: expensive, heavy and fragile, roughness can form on the inside due to corrosion, this can cause blockage.

Polypropylene

Advantages: lightweight and flexible, making them most in demand for internal sewage. They can easily withstand the high temperature of wastewater.

Flaws: If you use it for its intended purpose, then there are no drawbacks.

PVC

Advantages: similar to cast iron, inexpensive and lightweight. Most often used for outdoor sewage.

Flaws: the high temperature of wastewater is poorly tolerated, brittle (they do not bend, but crack).

Pipe laying

Probably the most time-consuming process in the construction of a private house with your own hands is the wiring and laying of pipes. If you decide to do this work yourself, then be sure to call someone for help, as this will affect not only the quality of the work, but also the speed. It is also recommended that you first check the tightness of the system by pouring clean water, and only then, after making sure that all the seams are reliable, you can proceed to full-fledged operation.

It has already been said before that the most simple option will use PP or PVC pipes for sewerage. Currently, there are a large number of offers for these products on the construction market, so it will not be difficult for you to find revisions, tees, elbows and plastic pipes that are securely and easily connected at the joints due to the presence of rubber cuffs. If desired, all joints can be additionally treated with a special plumbing sealant. And in those places where labor passes through a wall or ceiling, it is recommended to install a sleeve.

You also need to remember about the slope of the pipes. In accordance with SNiP, in a non-pressure system, the angle of inclination of the pipe depends on its diameter. For example, for a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of at least 3 cm per meter, and for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm - at least 2 cm per meter. Do not forget about this, since you will need to place different points of the pipeline at different heights to ensure the necessary slope.

In order not to encounter a discrepancy between the internal and external sewage systems, it is necessary to start installing the sewerage system in the house from the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the sewerage system that connects the pipe leading to the septic tank with the pipe that exits the house (riser).

The outlet must be mounted through the foundation at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil, which corresponds to your region. You can install a higher outlet, but for this you will need to insulate the pipe so that it does not freeze in the winter. If this is not done, then it is likely that you will be able to use the toilet only in the spring, after warming.

If this was not taken care of, then you will need to punch a hole in the foundation into which a drain pipe with a sleeve can fit. A sleeve is a small piece of pipe, the diameter of which is larger than that of a sewer pipe (130-160 mm). Such a sleeve should protrude at least 15 cm on both sides of the foundation.

Summarizing the above, it can be said that this stage you need to make a hole in the foundation (if it is not there) and insert a sleeve with a pipe into it. Do not forget that the diameter of the outlet pipe must be no less than the diameter of the riser. And the sleeve is needed in order to set the required slope of the pipe towards the septic tank (2 cm per meter).

It is best to place the riser in the toilet, as the recommended size of the pipe that goes from the toilet to the riser is 100 mm. It can be mounted both openly and hidden, depending on how the pipes will be mounted - in special boxes, walls, channels and niches, or next to walls (fastening with hangers, clamps, etc.).

In order to connect the sewer pipes to the riser, oblique tees should be used, and adapters should be used at the joints of pipes that are different in diameter. Where pipes from sinks, bath and shower intersect, it is necessary to install a collector pipe having a diameter of 100-110 mm. Also, do not forget about water seals, which will help protect your sense of smell from unpleasant odors.

It is imperative to mount a special tee (revision) on each riser with which it will be possible, if necessary, to clean the blockage. In order not to carry out work on cleaning the sewer in the future, it is necessary to mount a cleaning after each turn.

The output and installation of the fan pipe is given a very important role, since the fan pipe is needed for:

maintaining atmospheric pressure inside the system so that hydraulic shocks and air discharge do not occur;
increasing the durability of the sewer system;
ventilation of the entire sewage system, which in turn is necessary for the efficient operation of the septic tank.

A fan pipe is a continuation of the riser, that is, it is a pipe that is brought to. Before connecting the fan pipe and the riser, it is necessary to install a revision. After that, you need to bring the pipe at a convenient angle to the attic.

It is not recommended to simplify the work by combining the fan pipe (sewer ventilation) with the chimney or ventilation of the house. Moreover, it is necessary to locate the outlet of the fan pipe away from windows and balconies, at a distance of at least 4 meters. The height of the indentation from the roof should not be less than 70 cm. In addition, it is necessary to have sewer ventilation, a chimney and ventilation of the house at different levels.

Summarizing all of the above, we can say the following:

The first step is to draw up detailed diagram wiring, minimizing, if possible, the distance from plumbing fixtures to the riser;
it is necessary to increase the diameter of the pipes that go to the riser, in the course of connecting additional devices. Do not allow a reduction in diameter;
you need to follow a simple rule: the larger the outlet of the device, the closer it should be to the riser. The toilet should be located closest to the riser;
when wiring in a private sewer house, sharp corners should be excluded, and pipes should be laid with a certain slope;
those where blockages may form in the future, it is necessary to provide for cleaning and revision in advance;
for ventilation of the system, a fan pipe must be present in the wiring diagram.

You can equip a sewer in a private house with your own hands different ways, which will be discussed next. It is very important to choose the right system that will meet all your needs.

It is necessary to choose a scheme for arranging a sewerage system, taking into account some parameters:

temporary or permanent residence in the house;
the number of people living in the house permanently;
how much water each person consumes daily (depending on the availability of a washing machine, washbasin, sink, toilet, shower, bath, etc.);
at what level do groundwater occur;
how big is your site and how much space can be allocated for treatment facilities;
what type and structure of the soil;
climatic conditions.

To get more detailed information, you should study all relevant sections of SNiP and SanPin.

All sewer systems for a private house can be conditionally divided into two types:

storage systems (sealed wastewater tank, cesspool without a bottom);
facilities designed for wastewater treatment (aerotank - a septic tank with a constant air supply, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank with two or three chambers and a filtration field, a septic tank with two overflowing wells and natural treatment, a simple single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning).

The cesspool is the most ancient and proven method of arranging sewers for many centuries. This method had no alternative 50-70 years ago. True, in those days people did not use as much water in a private house as they do now.

In fact, a cesspool is a well that does not have a bottom. In a cesspool, walls can be made of concrete, concrete rings, bricks or other material, and soil can be left as the bottom. After sewage from the house enters the pit, relatively clean water will seep into the soil, while solid organic waste and fecal matter will accumulate, settling to the bottom. When over time the well is completely filled with solid waste, it will need to be cleaned.

Previously, waterproof walls were not made in the cesspool, so when it was full, they buried it, and another one was dug out in another place.

It should be noted that it is possible to arrange sewage in a private house using a cesspool only when the volume of average daily drains does not exceed one cubic meter. Only in this case, soil microorganisms living in the soil and feeding on organic matter will be able to process the water that will penetrate through the bottom of the pit into the soil. And in the event that the volume of runoff exceeds this norm, the water will not receive the necessary treatment, which will lead to pollution of groundwater. If this happens, then all water sources within a radius of 50 meters will be contaminated. If you add microorganisms to the cesspool, this will slightly reduce the unpleasant odor that comes from it, and also speed up the process of water purification. But it's still not worth the risk.

Conclusion. It is worth building a cesspool that does not have a bottom only when they do not live in the house permanently, but visit several times a week without spending a lot of water. Also, you should pay attention to the fact that groundwater must lie at least one meter below the bottom of the pit, otherwise you will not be able to avoid contamination of water sources and soil. The cesspool has the lowest cost, but even despite this, it is currently not popular in cottages and modern country houses.

In this case, it is necessary to install a sealed container near the house, into which wastewater will flow from the entire house through pipes. You can purchase a ready-made container in the store, which can be made of metal, plastic or other material. But if you wish, you can make such a container with your own hands from concrete rings. The lid can be made of metal, and the bottom can be made of concrete. The main condition for the construction of this type of sewage system is complete tightness. For this type of sewage, pragma corrugated pipes can be used.

Such a container will definitely need to be cleaned when it is completely full, for which you will have to call a sewage truck, which will cost you from 15 to 30 USD. The required volume of the container and the frequency of its emptying depends on the volume of wastewater. For example, if four people live in the house on a permanent basis and use the washing machine, toilet, sink, shower and bath, then storage tank should have a volume of at least 8 cubic meters, and it will need to be cleaned every 10-14 days.

Conclusion. If the groundwater in your area is quite high, then as an option for arranging the sewerage system at home, you can use a sealed cesspool. With its help, you can completely protect water sources and soil from possible pollution. But the disadvantage of such a system is that you will need to call the sewer truck quite often. For the same reason, it is necessary to think in advance about the place where the pit will be placed so that there is a convenient access to it. The bottom of the tank or pit should not be deeper than three meters from the soil surface, otherwise the hose will not be able to reach the bottom. The lid of the storage tank must be insulated so that the pipeline is protected from freezing. The cost of such a container will directly depend on its volume and the material from which it will be made. Using used Eurocubes will be the cheapest option, and the most expensive is brick or concrete pouring. Also, do not forget about the monthly costs of cleaning the tank.

The easiest option for soil cleaning is a single-chamber septic tank

A single-chamber septic tank is not very different from an ordinary cesspool, and sometimes it is called that. This structure is essentially a well in which the bottom is covered with a small layer of crushed stone (at least 30 cm), and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top of the crushed stone. In this case, wastewater from the house enters the well through pipes, where the water then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, while being cleaned by 50%. Of course, crushed stone and sand significantly improve the quality of water treatment, but this does not fundamentally solve the problem.

Conclusion. It is not recommended to build a sewerage system in a private house using a single-chamber septic tank if people live in the house permanently or with a large volume of wastewater. This option can only be used with a low level of groundwater and temporary residence. It will also be necessary to periodically change the crushed stone and sand, as they will silt.

The construction of filter wells and overflow settling wells is a fairly popular way of arranging sewage in a private house, moreover this option quite economical and can be mounted independently.

This sewer system consists of two wells: the first well has an airtight bottom, and the second one has no bottom, but is sprinkled with rubble and sand.

From the house, sewage enters the first well, in which feces and solid waste sink to the bottom, and greasy ones float to the surface. Between these two layers, relatively clarified water is formed. The first well is connected to the second by about 2/3 of its height by an overflow pipe, which is located at a slight slope, allowing water to flow there unhindered. Slightly clarified water enters the second well, which then seeps through sand, gravel and soil, clearing even more.

The first well serves as a sump, and the second as a filter well. From time to time, the first well fills up with faeces and you will need to call a sewage truck to clean it. This should be done about once every six months. In order to reduce the amount of unpleasant odors, it is necessary to add microorganisms that decompose feces into the first well.

The two-chamber described above can be made with your own hands from brick, concrete or concrete rings, or you can purchase a ready-made plastic septic tank from the manufacturer, in which additional cleaning will be carried out with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is worth installing a sewerage system in a private house based on two overflow wells only when, even during a flood, the groundwater level is below one meter from the bottom of the second well. If your site has sandy or sandy soil, then this will be ideal option. But remember that after about five years, the sand and gravel in the second well will need to be replaced.

Soil and biological treatment - septic tank with filtration field

This type of septic tank is made in the form of one tank, which is divided into several separate tanks connected by pipes, or into 2-3 sections. Usually, if you want to install this type of sewer system in your home, a ready-made version is purchased.

The first capacity of the septic tank is designed to settle wastewater, as is the case in a conventional settling well. Further, the partially clarified water goes through the pipe to the second section or container, where all available organic residues are decomposed by anaerobic bacteria. After that, more clarified water follows to the filtration fields.

The filtration field is a rather extensive (about 30 sq.m) underground area, where wastewater is treated by soil. In this case, the water is purified by about 80% due to the large area. If the soil in your area is sandy or sandy, then this will be an ideal option, otherwise you will need to build an artificial filtration field from sand and gravel. After the water passes the filtration field, it is collected in pipelines and sent to wells or drainage ditches. It is not allowed to plant edible vegetables and trees above the filtration field, you can only make a flower bed.

Over time, the filtration field will become silted up and it will need to be cleaned, or rather replaced with sand and gravel. This is a very large amount of work, and your site may suffer in this case.

Conclusion. The construction of a sewerage system with a filtration field in a private house is recommended only when the groundwater is at a depth of at least 2.5-3 meters. You also need to remember that there must be a distance of at least 30 meters from the filtration field to residential buildings and water sources.

With the help of a deep cleaning station, it is possible to carry out a complete installation of sewage in a private house, even with a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

This station is a container, which is divided into 3-4 sections. It is best to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after checking with professionals about the necessary equipment and volume. The cost of such a septic tank starts from 1200 USD, which is not at all cheap.

The first chamber of this septic tank is designed to settle water, and in the second, organic residues decompose with the help of anaerobic microorganisms. In the third chamber, water is separated, and in the fourth, organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which necessarily need a constant supply of air. To ensure this condition, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which should rise 50 cm above the ground. A filter is installed in the pipe that leads from the third chamber to the fourth, into which aerobic bacteria are added. In fact, this is a filtering field, but it is concentrated and more miniature. Due to the higher concentration of microorganisms and small area water advancement, water purification occurs more thoroughly (up to 90-95%). Water purified in this way can be used to wash a car, water a garden, and much more. From the fourth chamber there is a pipe that goes either to a drainage ditch or to a storage tank.

Conclusion. For a private house where they live permanently, a septic tank with a biofilter is great solution. Adding microorganisms to a septic tank is very simple - you just need to pour them into the toilet. Such a cleaning station has no restrictions. Its advantages include the fact that it does not require electricity to operate. The disadvantage is the fact that this station needs permanent residence, since bacteria deprived of sewage will simply die. If you add new bacteria there, they will start working only after two weeks.

Artificial cleaning station - septic tank with forced air supply

This is practically an accelerated cleaning station in which natural processes take place artificially. The arrangement of the sewer system of a private house with the help of an aeration tank is not possible without supplying electricity to the septic tank, which is necessary to connect the air distributor and air pump.

This septic tank has three separate containers or chambers that are interconnected. Water through the sewer pipe first enters the first chamber, in which it settles and solid waste precipitates. Further, partially clarified water is pumped into the second chamber, which is essentially an aeration tank, where activated sludge, consisting of plants and microorganisms, is mixed with water. All activated sludge bacteria and microorganisms are aerobic, so forced aeration is required for their vital activity.

Then the water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aerotank by a special pump.

Due to the forced air supply, wastewater treatment occurs quite quickly, and the purified water can be used for various technical needs (watering the garden, washing the car, etc.).

Conclusion. Aerotank, of course, is quite expensive (from 3700 USD), but at the same time very useful. There are no restrictions when installing this type of sewerage. Among the shortcomings, one can note only the need for electricity, as well as permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.

If your site has a high level of groundwater, then drawing a conclusion from everything written above, you can opt for several options:

aeration tank (aeration cleaning station);
septic tank with biofilter;
a sealed container in which waste accumulates.

There are certain restrictions on the placement of sewer system facilities.

Septic location:

at least 10 meters from the garden;
at least 20-50 meters from any water source (reservoir, well, well);
at least 5 meters from residential buildings.

Residential building location:

300 meters from stations and drain wells;
50 meters from aeration treatment plants;
25 meters from the filter field;
8 meters from the filter well.

Be sure to make a draft of the sewerage system of a private house and do not try to do everything without it, since the sewerage system is such a system in which there can be no approximation. It is best to contact architects or a design bureau, where professionals will help you create a competent project, taking into account operating conditions, climate, site and soil. Even better, if you do a sewer project together with a house project, even before construction begins.

The installation of a sewerage system for a private house itself is not particularly difficult. All you need to do is to properly distribute the pipes around the house, connect them to the collector and bring them to the septic tank. For earthworks you can hire an excavator, or you can do them yourself. The main thing is the drafting and competent selection of the sewerage system.

In order for the sewage disposal system to function flawlessly, several nuances must be taken into account when arranging it. Today we will tell you what sewerage is for a private house, how to install it correctly and what mistakes should be avoided.

Pipe laying

Sewer wiring is one of the most complex processes, so its arrangement should be given the closest attention. Its assembly must fully comply with the requirements of SNiP.

Installation of the sewerage system is carried out in stages:
first fit release(a pipe connecting the external street and intra-house system);

Release device

Further mounted riser- the central pipe, located vertically; to facilitate maintenance, it is better if he is alone in the house; as a rule, it is located in utility rooms or a toilet; should not be mounted in living rooms or kitchen; it is installed openly or fits into a special shaft;

Last to connect bends, starting from the crosses, only upside down; while the toilet is connected to the riser only separately with a pipe of 100-110 mm, other devices can be connected to a single common supply with thin pipes of 50 mm.

Advice. Liquid soap can be used to facilitate the entry of pipes into fasteners.

Mounting release

1. For him, it is better to mount a special hole during the construction of the house. If it is not there, then a hole is made in the foundation 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe itself.

2. Hole waterproofed using bituminous mastic.

3. Next, a special sleeve is inserted into it (a segment with a diameter of 20-40 mm more than the outlet pipe). It serves to prevent the destruction of the main pipeline. The sleeve should protrude from the foundation on both sides by 150 mm.

4. The outlet pipe is placed in the sleeve. The space between them is carefully filled with foam.

5. With intrahouse sewer pipe sleeve connects oblique tee(tee 45°) and withdrawal.

Sewer crosses, tees and bends

Slope angle

Since sewage flows through the pipes by gravity, in order to avoid blockages, the angle of their slope should be correctly determined. It is calculated based on the diameter of the pipeline. And for each plumbing fixture, it is selected separately:

40-55 mm - from 3%;

85-100 mm - from 2%.

Naturally, the farther the device is from the riser, the more the slope should be increased. Let's say drain hole located at a distance of 200 m from the riser itself. To obtain the required angle of inclination, the pipe should be shifted in height by 60 mm.

Pipe angle

Advice. When choosing pipes for sewerage, please note that street pipes are always painted orange, and pipes intended for indoor installation are grey.

Riser installation

1. He's only going down up. For such a pipe, appropriate openings are prepared in the ceilings and roof. To reduce the noise of the passage of water from the wall or strobe, 20 mm should be retreated.

2. The riser is mounted only strictly vertical. Minor deviations of up to 2 mm for every 2 m are allowed.

3. So that the joints do not interfere with the passage of liquid, the sockets are mounted above.

4. Gradually connect when assembled side branches and inspection hatches. For this, oblique tees and crosses are used.

5. When connecting the bends, the pipes running parallel to the floor are laid on special supports.

Scheme of the sewer system

6. Excessive pipe turns should be avoided, if they cannot be avoided, it is better to use two tees at 45 °, and even better three at 30 °; if you choose one in 90°, then the waste in it will be stagnate; in addition, when connected at a right angle, the pressure in the riser will be limiting, which will lead to excessive noise in room.

Advice. Since blockages occur most often at the corners, be sure to provide revision or inspection hatches next to them.

7. The riser is fixed to the wall with clamps, which should be located under the sockets. The distance between the clamps is up to 4 m. In order not to damage the system, the holes for them should be prepared in advance or, during their preparation, the riser should be disassembled for a while.

Riser Assembly Scheme

Arrangement of the hood

To prevent odors from entering the room, a curved pipe is provided at the bottom of all plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilet bowls, etc.) - water seal. However, with intensive use of sewage in the riser, a vacuum is sometimes formed. In this case, there is a "breakdown of the water seal" - gases without water resistance begin to penetrate into the house.

To avoid this, it is necessary to provide for their removal into the atmosphere. The fan pipe for ventilation of the sewer system is brought out through the roof. Its diameter is always equal to the main pipe diameter. If the fan pipe passes through an unheated attic space, it must be insulated.

With a small capacity of the sewerage sewerage equipment without exhaust is allowed. However, in this case, the riser must necessarily end with a cleaning or revision hatch.

Inspection hatch and cleaning hole (equipped with a plug)

Basic wiring rules

In order to avoid problems with sewage during operation, the following rules should be followed when arranging it:

To prevent a splash of sewage, all plumbing is connected above the toilet;

To avoid blockages, strong kinks and excessive sharp pipe bends;

Sewer system installation

supply pipe diameter it is selected equal to or slightly larger than the size of the largest pipe from the plumbing fixture;

If there is a toilet in the house common riser diameter must be greater than or at least equal to 100 mm - the diameter of the toilet pipe;

The eyeliner to it should not exceed a meter; from other plumbing fixtures allowed eyeliner length up to 3 m; if for some reason it is made larger, then its diameter is increased to the size of the common riser (at least 100 mm); in order not to increase its diameter, it is possible to equip a vacuum valve at its upper end;

To maintain the system, it is necessary to provide inspection hatches and hatches for cleaning; they should be placed every 10 m;

So that in winter the pipes do not freeze, in places where they pass underground, they should be carefully insulate.

How to create a sewer in a private house. External and internal sewerage. The choice of materials and the location of the sewer. Installation of pipes and sewer drains.

When building a mansion, the sewerage scheme in a private house should play an important role. After all, the comfort of living and the availability of repair work sewers in the future.

Stages of laying the sewer system. Materials for creating sewers. Internal and external sewerage, what are the differences in them. Choice of location. Arrangement options. Selection of the necessary pipes. Tips and tricks for a secure installation.

Types of waste systems

During the construction of a new building, sewerage is an integral part. WITH modern materials and quantity useful information on the Internet, learning how to properly design a sewerage scheme in a private house with your own hands will not be a problem.

By following simple requirements, you can easily mount the waste system yourself, since you do not have to use outdated bulky materials.

Since the old grandfather's toilet has lost its relevance, especially in the cold season, three main types of waste systems are currently in operation:

A system connected to a collective or city collector;
Stationary waste collection point;
Sealed tank;
Stationary sewer well without bottom;
Scheme of installation of bio-sewerage.

The principles of installing the pipe system in the house and up to the collector are almost the same for all types. It is convenient to carry out all the wiring around the house from PVC, and it is more rational to make the connection to the collection point with a HDPE pipe for technical purposes, since its length allows a seamless method. The main branch connected to the toilet is laid with a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, all other standard points of water intake (sink, washing machine, shower cabin), are connected to common system pipes of the 50th diameter.

The only requirement is an angle of 2-3o on horizontal sections to ensure optimum water flow.

At sewer PVC pipes have their advantages and disadvantages when installing a waste system:

Easy way to connect. The whole circuit is assembled as a constructor, pipes and components are simply inserted into each other;
The materials are light in weight compared even to HDPE materials;
A simple way of fastening, including on a vertical surface;
The only drawback is the maximum length in free access of 6 m.

Do-it-yourself sewerage scheme in a private house

Do-it-yourself installation of a sewerage scheme in a private house is possible for all types of sewerage, except for biosewerage. To implement this option, it is recommended to contact specialists. All the rest can be mounted independently, but when connected to a central system, a package of permits is required.

Where to start

The first step is to select the collection point type. The most profitable is connecting to a common city branch. The user makes a one-time investment in the installation and required materials and pays a symbolic amount for the services monthly. This option is not always feasible for suburban construction, but there is an alternative.

Stationary sewerage scheme of a private house: the depth of the pipe to the tank

The tank can be made from different materials.

It could be:

Metal or plastic tank;
concrete structure;
Concrete rings mounted on a concrete base.

This method is acceptable even if there is a water well on the site, since liquid waste with good waterproofing, they do not penetrate the soil. The only downside is waste. Money for the services of sewers. A septic tank, as a rule, is mounted to a depth of 1.5-2 m. The pipeline is strongly recommended to be laid below the freezing level of the soil, which can be determined from a special map.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

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Depending on the number of points of water intake, the working volume of the tank is selected, but it should be borne in mind that the standard volume of a sewage truck is 3 m3, that is, the volume of your tank must be a multiple of this indicator.

For example, if the volume of the tank is 5 m3, you will either overpay for the services of the second machine, or 2 m3 of the working volume will be filled once and become useless.

In the case of a standard family of 4, with occasional laundry, showers, and dishwashing, a 3 m3 container is filled on average in two weeks.

Option with leaky waste collection point

When implementing this type of sewerage, the location of the waste collection point is very important. The minimum distance from the house and outbuildings to the cesspool is 6-10 m. Otherwise, liquid drains wash out the soil and the sandy foundation pad.

Execution options:

Concrete rings installed on a drainage pad;
Brick version of the cesspool;
United in one system metal or plastic barrels with holes.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Note! When using barrels, the base is laid out with gravel, since the weight of the loose soil will press the container into loose soil.

When laying sewerage in a private house, it is recommended that the ditch be performed with a slope exceeding an angle of 2-3o for a more efficient process. The depth of the ditch for each case is different, depending on the size of the site and its location relative to the access roads.

The basic principles of the sewer pipeline

Depending on the number of communication drain points, a diagram of the internal arrangement of pipes is drawn up. For convenience, the diagram is drawn on graph paper. In the case of building a two-story building, in order to save materials, it is recommended to locate sanitary facilities and secondary drain points as close as possible to the collector. The main collector is mounted along one vertical line on all planned floors, all subsequent parts of the system are connected in series to the main line.

Technology pvc assembly materials is very simple, since any pipe can be shortened to right size. Also, each node closed system it is recommended to equip with an emergency adapter, in case of blockage, or an adapter of a larger diameter.

Units located in closed piers are recommended to be connected using a sealant. It is recommended to avoid 90° angles to reduce the risk of clogging.

The principle of operation of the water lock

The water valve prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer into the room. His device has the same design, the differences are only in size. Water serves as a kind of plug.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Note! In the event of a long period of inactivity without operation, the water evaporates, and the water seal loses its functional qualities.

Vacuum valves and fan pipe

These two concepts are unknown to most people outside the plumbing profession. The purpose of these two elements is to prevent the discharge of air in the system when draining a large amount of water or during the operation of sewers, at the time of pumping out waste from the storage tank.

Undoubtedly, installing a sewer system is the easiest stage of construction compared to electricity or building walls, but there are many pitfalls in this stage.

Here is a list of some of them:

When buying pipes and accessories, check the presence of a rubber gasket in the socket. She is often lost;
It is strongly not recommended to connect the exhaust pipe to the ventilation system;
In the case of a standard set of water consumption points (one toilet bowl, two sinks, a washing machine, a shower cabin), it is not necessary to install a fan pipe, you can limit yourself to a vacuum valve;
When laying PVC pipes in a ditch, carefully monitor the joints, as the joints are unstable;
It is strongly recommended to install an emergency drain to clean the sewer. It is installed as close as possible to the place where the pipe enters the house, in an accessible place.

Compared to other stages of construction, sewerage is the easiest to install, with the exception of bio-sewerage. Consult with experts or select specialized literature, as rash actions can destroy the bacteria present in the storage tank. For example, from a bleach-based toilet bowl cleaner, the bacteria will recover in a week.

It is difficult for us to live without amenities, even being in a private house. We strive to provide maximum convenience, creating an optimal standard of living for our family. For this, it is very important to think over the issue of construction in advance.

When building a sewer with your own hands in a private country cottage, you can save money, but you need to carry out these works in accordance with construction and installation requirements.

Sewerage in the house involves the arrangement of external and internal sewerage.

Internal is piping, installation of a fan pipe and a riser.

The outer one includes a set of pipes running from the house to a septic tank or a deep cleaning station.

Scheme of internal sewerage

This septic tank has three chambers interconnected. Water enters the first, settles and leaves solid waste in the sediment. Then it is pumped to the second, which is the aeration tank, where water is mixed with activated sludge from microorganisms and plants. All of them are aerobic, and forced aeration is necessary for their vital activity.

Then water and sludge enter the third chamber, which is a deep cleaning sump, after which the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a pump.

The aerotank is quite expensive, but it does not have any installation restrictions. Of the minuses, one can only say about the need for electricity, and permanent residence so that bacteria do not die.