Conducting heating in a private house, or upgrading existing system, the owners are faced with the problem of choosing a boiler. A wide range of products gives rise to many questions and doubts. If with devices operating on a water heating element it’s still somehow clear, then few people are familiar with the electrode heating principle.
Electrode type boilers belong to electric mind heating. Through the work of engineers, inefficient heating elements were replaced by blocks of electrodes that act as heating elements.
Areas of use
- Living spaces;
- for underfloor heating system;
- to create a thermal curtain;
- in double-circuit systems, the use of hot water supply is permissible.
The principle of operation of the electrode boiler
The principle of distribution of the coolant depends on the type of ion boiler system:
Closed ones provide for the installation of a circulation pump for the forced movement of the coolant and expansion tank for the initial stage of heating;
Read also: Do-it-yourself water meter installation
IN open systems the movement of the coolant is carried out in a natural way.
Heating of the coolant occurs due to the movement of ions between the electrodes. The process of randomly moving positive and negative particles is accompanied by the release of thermal energy, which is used to heat water or antifreeze liquid in the system.
The electrodes perform the function of the producer electric field variable action.
Advantages of the electrode boiler
High power (single-phase and three-phase from 2 kW to 50 kW);
Small dimensions;
Fast heating;
Does not have a chimney in the design;
High odds useful action (95-97%);
Regulates the pressure in the system;
Safe operation;
Ability to connect automation;
Resistant to voltage fluctuations;
It is permissible to use several boilers in one room;
Ecological type of heating.
Cons of the boiler
Only alternating current is applied;
Scale formation on the electrodes;
Mandatory grounding work during installation;
Coolant temperature control (over 75 ° there is an overexpenditure of electricity).
Requirements for the installation and operation of the boiler
For efficient and safe work equipment, a specialist is involved in the installation and configuration of the boiler. Installed in accordance with the requirements of the device will serve long time without breakage. A competent master will acquaint you with the rules of operation.
Read also: Sewerage device in a private house: external sewerage
The temperature range that ensures the operation of the boiler ranges from 10 to 40 degrees.
Humidity in the room should not exceed 75%.
The installation site of the equipment must have a separate room with sufficient space for basic maintenance. Automation and control devices are also located there.
The presence of grounding is an integral part of the installation.
When buying a boiler, you need to make sure that it is complete.
The device is installed low in relation to the radiators for pressure regulation.
The junction of the boiler with the system is complemented by fixing it to the wall.
During operation, electrode equipment is subject to technical control and maintenance.
How to choose an electrode boiler
Compliance with the power of the boiler and the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room;
Complete set of the heating device;
Economical operation;
manufacturer's reputation;
Ability to connect other devices;
Usage cellular communication for remote control;
Connection features.
If the installation is provided in two-story house, two boilers should be used for each group of radiators.
For efficient heating and rational consumption of electricity, it is recommended to equip the system with a circulation pump, thermostats for batteries and temperature sensors.
The electrode-type boilers, which are gaining popularity, are a conversion product. In the navy, they were installed (and are still being installed) on ships and submarines. Back in the days of the Soviet Union, there were two factories that produced these.
One plant in Ukraine, one in Russia. Both countries today produce them for the public. The Russian electrode boiler is called "Galan", Ukrainian "Obriy". Today, other companies producing boilers of this type have appeared on the market. For example, the models "Ion" and "Ray".
Principle of operation
The operation of the electrode boiler is based on purely physical laws. The coolant in it is heated not due to some kind of heating element, but due to the decay of water molecules into differently charged ions.
Two electrodes are installed in the container where the coolant is located, and the supply of electric current is turned on. Water molecules under the influence of a current with a frequency of 50 Hz (this is the number of oscillations per second) are divided into positive and negative ions. It is during the separation process that it turns out thermal energy. Each ion with its own charge moves to a specific electrode.
Surprisingly, the heating is instantaneous due to the high resistance of the water. Plus, in such a system there is no electrolysis process, which contributes to the formation of scale on the metal walls of the heating boiler. This means that the electrode boiler is an almost ever-working unit.
The design of the device is quite simple. First, it is a device of small overall dimensions.
Secondly, the boiler is a pipe that simply cuts into the pipe decoupling system by threaded connection with the help of the Americans. Thirdly, the electrodes are inserted from one of the ends of the device. The coolant enters through the side branch pipe, and exits through the free end.
The dimensions of the unit depend on its power. For example, "single-phase has a length of 30 cm (diameter 6 cm), three-phase - 40 cm. For a small private house, the first option is suitable. If the house is large enough, multi-storey, then it is better to install a three-phase device.
Heat transfer requirements
Unfortunately, simple tap water cannot be used as a heat carrier in a system where an electrode boiler is installed. In order for the ionization of the coolant to occur, a certain salt content is necessary in it.
Therefore, manufacturers recommend pouring antifreeze into the heating system of a private house or adding special inhibitors to the water. The Galan company produces special solutions called Potok, which can be added to water or used as a coolant.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like any electric unit for heating a private house, the electrode device has both its positive and negative sides.
pros
The positive ones include a high efficiency - 98% with small dimensions. At the same time, due to the ionization of the coolant, the energy consumed is saved. When compared, for example, with heating boilers, electrode boilers consume 40% less electricity.
Voltage drops are a natural state of Russian electrical networks in suburban villages. So, energy-saving electrode-type heating boilers do not react to these drops. In addition, there is no need to coordinate the installation and connection of the boiler with the boiler supervision.
Minuses
The negative positions of using an electrode heater include the impossibility of its use in a heating system where steel pipes are installed and cast iron radiators. In the first case, there is a high probability of scale formation on the walls.
In the second - a large volume of coolant, which the electrode boiler may not warm up. Here we add the filling of antifreeze and inhibitors, as well as the high cost of electricity.
Characteristics
To understand the characteristics of the electrode boiler, it is necessary to consider domestic models of the Galan device. The company currently offers four modifications:
- "Hearth";
- "Standard";
- "Geyser";
- "Volcano".
For private houses
The Hearth and Standard models are for private houses. Their power is 2, 3, 5, 6 kW. Accordingly, with their help, you can heat houses with a volume of: 80, 120, 180, 200 m³.
These devices are mains operated. alternating current voltage of 220 volts. For connection, it is recommended to use a cable with a cross section of 4-6 mm².
For large buildings
"Geyser" and "Volcano" can be used to heat large buildings: residential and non-residential. The power of these devices: Geyser - 9, 15 kW, Vulcan - 25, 36, 50 kW. Both models are three-phase counterparts.
Antifreeze liquids such as "Tosol", "Arktika" are not intended for electrode boilers.
Control and management
All models are equipped with temperature sensors and adjustment devices temperature regime. The electronic control unit is installed next to the boiler, often on the wall.
controversial issues
There is an erroneous opinion that electrode-type heating devices are divided into cathodic and anode. The thing is that the cathode and anode can only be present when exposed to direct current. IN electrode boilers AC current is used.
It would be possible to call electrode units for heating, operating in a single-phase scheme, cathodic, because two tubular rods are installed inside the boiler. One is supplied with electric current, the second is the zero phase. In this case, the movement of electric current (negatively charged particles, that is, electrodes) occurs from the first rod to the second.
But it would be more correct to call the boilers ionic. It's all about the principle of obtaining thermal energy. This has already been discussed above.
The smaller the volume of coolant in the heating system of a private house, the more efficient the electrode-type boiler works. Therefore, it is recommended to use for the construction heating system bimetallic or aluminum radiators and contour wiring from polyethylene pipes.
Please note that it is best to create your own new heating under the electrode heating unit. Embedding it into the old one, where a different type of heating device was used, is not worth it.
Thermal insulation and connection
Experts recommend thermal insulation of all circuits. The connection is best done with a separate cable from the switchboard with the installation of a separate machine. IN wiring diagram connection, you must not install an RCD (residual current device).
Be sure to ground the installation, as is the case with other models of electric heating units.
Increasing heating efficiency
If the power of one boiler is not enough to heat a large house, then several devices can be installed in a single system. They can be connected in parallel or in series.
And the last. Heating boilers of this type are installed only in closed system where embedded circulation pump. The latter provides additional resistance to the coolant, which affects the quality of heat generation.
In an electrode heating device, an increase in the temperature of the heat carrier occurs due to the Brownian motion of ions. This design saves money electrical energy and contributes to it rational use. How to make an electrode boiler with your own hands? By answering this question, you can reduce the cost of building a heating system and try to make it yourself.
List of materials and tools
On initial stage you should carefully study the drawings of the future heating system and, in accordance with them, make a selection necessary materials and tools. For the manufacture of a heating device, you will need the following elements:
- welding device. It is better that the device has an inverter design. It is easier for a beginner to work with him;
- steel pipe. The boiler body will be made from it. The optimal pipe diameter is 10 cm. Its length should not exceed 30 cm;
- the metal rod will act as an electrode;
- tee for connecting the heater body with heating batteries;
- coupling for fixing the boiler;
- insulating material for terminals and electrodes;
- terminals for ground loop equipment;
- Bulgarian.
Operating principle
The operation of the electrode boiler is based on the flow of the electrolysis process. Two oppositely charged electrodes are immersed in water. The current supplied to them is constant. The result of a chemical process is the multidirectional movement of ions.
The same thing happens in the heating device. Only applied to the electrode contacts AC voltage. Ions constantly change their direction of motion with great frequency. As a result of this, the heat carrier is heated.
Advantages of the electrode design
Electrode heaters have a number of advantages compared to classic boilers:
- efficiency approaches 100%. Simple and robust design allows almost all used electrical energy to be converted into heat;
- heating devices are small. They are installed directly in the heating circuit. Not involved extra bed in room.
- A characteristic representative of heaters of this type is the scorpion electric boiler;
- devices are highly reliable. If the system is started in the absence of a thermal carrier, its failure is impossible;
- power surges will not turn off the heating. Only the heating temperature will change;
- a home-made electrode boiler for water heating is a more economical device than a conventional electric heater. It uses less electrical energy during operation.
Flaws
High-quality operation of the heater is possible only with a certain composition of water. Deviations from the norm will lead to a decrease in the power of the device.
The boiler must not be used without a ground loop. There is a possibility of injury electric shock. The electrode heating structure cannot be installed on some types of radiators.
Manufacturing of an electrode heater
There are various schemes for connecting an electrode heater to a heating system. With a single-circuit connection, heating is used only for space heating. If you install a dual-circuit device, the coolant will also be used in the hot water supply system.
Manufacturing of electrode heating device carried out in the following order:
- on steel pipe, which will later be used as a boiler body, a coupling is mounted;
- a tee is attached to the other end;
- the tightness of the connection is checked, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of leaks;
- the end of the tee is connected to the electrode. Its immobility is ensured by the insulating material. The electrode is installed in a certain position and fixed;
- before the welding work liquid is poured into the pipe;
- steel bolts are welded to the pipe. A ground wire and zero will be attached to them. Connection points are carefully isolated;
- On last step product is connected to heating circuit and connects. Please note that RCDs cannot be used to protect the system. Doing so increases the risk of electric shock.
To ensure the safety of the heater, the design is supplemented with the following elements:
- safety valve;
- a device with which air will be removed;
- pressure sensor;
- expansion tank.
Installation of the electrode heater should be carried out taking into account certain recommendations:
- the device is mounted in a vertical plane;
- direct connection of the device to the heating system should be carried out using metal pipes;
- a copper wire is selected for grounding;
- before turning on the boiler, it is necessary to clean the system with special means.
Adjusting the operation of the heating device
Liquid for electrode boilers must have a certain chemical composition. For effective work heating system, it is necessary to select the correct salt concentration. In this capacity, ordinary soda is used. Adjustment is carried out as follows:
- power wires are connected to an ammeter;
- turn on the heating device;
- add soda to the liquid and pour it into the expansion tank;
- using an ammeter to determine the current strength. It should not exceed 18 A;
- Periodically, the solution is added to the heating system and the current strength is measured. When a value of 17 A is reached, topping up stops.
The choice of radiator batteries
When choosing radiators, the power of the heating device should be taken into account. 1 kW of heater power must correspond to 10 liters of heat carrier. Do not pour liquid with a margin. In this case, more electrical energy will be consumed to heat it.
It is better to use bimetallic or aluminum radiator designs. They contain fewer impurities, which, if released into the heating system, will adversely affect its operation.
Operation features
In heaters with electrode principle action, hydrolysis gases are formed. Therefore, a device for descent of air masses must be provided in the system.
Electricity can be supplied manually or automatic system management. To increase the current strength of the heating boiler, it is necessary to increase the concentration of soda in the liquid. When the characteristics of the heat carrier change, the resistance value changes. For stable operation of the device, the composition of the liquid should be controlled, maintaining certain proportions.
Electrode heating devices are highly efficient and are used for heating small buildings. At the same time, they have small dimensions and allow you to save free space in the room.
Warming country house as is necessary due to the fact that most buildings located outside the city are heated not from the central heating system, or gas-fired boilers, but using solid fuel boilers or conventional heating stoves.
Such heating is effective, but laborious. In order for the resulting thermal energy to be used as rationally as possible, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the walls of the country house. The best way to do this will be discussed in this article.
From this material you will learn where it is worth insulating the cottage - from the outside, or from the inside. An answer will also be given to the question: “Which insulation to choose?”. We will consider such materials for home insulation with our own hands as mineral wool, extruded polystyrene foam, penoizol and foil penofol.
1 Where is it better to insulate: inside or outside?
Immediately it is worth mentioning that if you want to equip as much as possible effective insulation country house with, then the required result can be obtained only through its complex insulation. Especially when it comes to warming a country house made of wood with your own hands.
There are a lot of ways to lose heat in a house with low thermal insulation. These are windows, and attic floors, and doorways, and walls.
But there are often cases when the budget for a summer house thermal insulation project allows you to choose only insulation from the outside or from the inside of the house. Let's figure out which option in this case is better to give preference.
In order to be able to easily understand all of the following, you first need to understand the concept of thermal inertia. For example, a cottage built of brick, during the summer day, stands under the rays of the sun at an air temperature of +35 degrees.
During this time, the brick walls warm up so much that the warmth of the walls will be felt even 3-4 hours after sunset.
Based on this, brick is a material with high thermal conductivity, as well as - it absorbs Sun rays, by raising its temperature, and by decreasing the temperature environment also gives its heat back for a long time.
1.1 Insulation of the walls of the cottage exclusively from the inside of the house
In construction, there is one key rule, which is formulated as: “design outdoor structure(walls) of the house, the layers of the wall should be arranged in order of decreasing their thermal insulation and increasing vapor barrier properties from the outside to the inside of the building. That is, the outer contour of the walls should have the lowest thermal conductivity.
If a layer of heat-insulating material, contrary to these requirements, is located inside the house, then both points of this rule will be violated. Of course, the insulation of the walls from the inside will give quite a tangible result, but the microclimate inside the room will suffer significantly.
There is a great risk that the humidity and dampness of the air in the house will increase significantly, due to the unnaturally high vapor barrier, which is facilitated by most types of thermal insulation, especially foil, materials.
The internal insulation of the walls of the cottage, as a rule, is done by hand by installing heat-insulating material on the surface of the walls, and then lining it with drywall.
This technology is often performed incorrectly, as well as, since one of the key factors that must be followed so that internal insulation does not bring all of the above problems with your own hands is the strongest adjoining of the heat insulator to the wall and the tight connection of the joints.
This is important due to the high thermal inertia brick wall. For 5-10 days of serious sub-zero temperatures outside surface the walls of the house will cool down very much, and the brick will turn into a serious source of cold, working to cool the inside of the house, which has more high temperature, and, as a consequence, provoking heat transfer.
If you insulate the wall inside the house with your own hands, then it is very important that the thermal insulation be made as tightly and monolithically as possible, since any gaps in the joints of the thermal insulation material with the wall and between themselves will contribute to the appearance of cold bridges.
A cold bridge is a place that has greater thermal conductivity than the main part of the house structure. Cold bridges are a serious reason for reducing the effectiveness of wall insulation, even if it is made using the highest quality thermal insulation materials.
If cold bridges have appeared, then the brick or wooden wall of the dacha will give off cold through the insulation (even if it is), as a result of which the drywall layer with which it is lined will cool.
When drywall is cooled below the dew point temperature, due to the temperature difference, moisture will condense on it, which will eventually turn into mold or fungus. Especially often this situation happens with the corners of the most poorly heated rooms.
In order for the internal insulation of a country house not to bring more disadvantages than advantages, it is necessary to strictly follow the following recommendations:
- The optimal insulation for insulating walls from the inside is a foil-type heat-insulating material like foam, it is best that the foiling is done on both sides. Double-sided foiling significantly reduces heat transfer between the cold wall and facing material, as a result of which condensate is either minimal or not formed at all;
- Arrangement of a thick facing layer with. If drywall is used, then it optimum thickness should be about 5 centimeters. Such a lining, due to its size, will prevent intensive cooling of the air inside the room due to freezing of the walls in winter, even if there are cold bridges.
1.2 Insulation of the walls of the cottage from the outside
External wall insulation is one of the most common and universal options partial thermal insulation country house with your own hands. And, in fact, the only correct option.
The low thermal conductivity of heaters helps to maintain the optimal internal temperature of brick, or wooden wall throughout the cold season.
The wall will not freeze due to the fact that the insulation prevents the penetration of cold from the outside, and from the inside the wall is heated by warm air.
For example, in practice, this plus, given our knowledge of the thermal inertia of the walls, results in the following. After opening the window to ventilate the house with cold winter morning, you will get instant warming up of the air that got inside the house, as the heated walls will give off their heat inside the house.
As a result, even if the window is open for an hour, the temperature in the house will drop by a maximum of 2-3 degrees. Similar ventilation, when the insulation is located outside the walls of the house, is likely to provoke a decrease in the temperature of the house by 7-8 degrees.
An additional advantage of high-quality external thermal insulation, provided that the insulation is mounted as tightly as possible and covered with a layer of plaster and outer cladding, is the complete absence of any air convection, cold bridges and drafts.
2 Types of heaters
Question: "Which insulation to choose?" it is very multifaceted, moreover, each individual case requires an individual choice, and it is impossible to say exactly which insulation is objectively the best. Let's look at the basic requirements that a really high-quality insulation must meet.
- thermal insulation properties. The higher the material thermal insulation characteristics, the thinner the lining layer will be, as a result of which both finances and free space will be saved.
- Hydrophobicity From how much the heat insulator absorbs moisture, the life span of the ego directly depends. The presence of internal moisture contributes to the accelerated destruction of the insulation. It is important that the material has water-repellent properties.
- Fire resistance. High-quality insulation should not undergo combustion and be self-extinguishing.
- Lifetime. It is important that over time the insulation does not decompose, does not lose its thermal insulation properties, microorganisms, midges and rodents do not start in it.
- Safety. This factor acquires maximum significance when it comes to materials for thermal insulation of a country house from the inside. The heater must not provide any Negative influence on the human body;
- Soundproofing. High-quality heaters, as a rule, have good soundproofing properties. We are talking about foamed foam and mineral wool products.
- Price. How much insulation costs is often one of the leading factors when choosing a thermal insulation material. It is important that the cost of the insulation is optimally correlated with its functional characteristics.
Let's figure out which insulation is best used to insulate a country house with your own hands. The following materials meet the above requirements:
- Mineral (basalt) wool;
- Expanded polystyrene foam;
- Foil penofol;
- Liquid penoizol.
If you are not limited in funds, then mineral wool is the best option for warming the cottage with your own hands. According to the thermal conductivity parameter given material is one of the best heaters. It does not burn, does not rot, has excellent soundproofing properties and vapor permeability, which helps to maintain an optimal indoor climate.
Mineral wool can be used to insulate walls with your own hands, both inside and outside the house. Weak side mineral wool insulation is unsatisfactory moisture resistance.
Manufacturers are trying to solve this issue with the help of a variety of hydrophobic additives that impregnate mineral threads at the creation stage, however, in order to be completely sure that the insulation does not collapse due to moisture gain, it is necessary to equip a high-quality waterproofing layer.
If you do all the work yourself, then an important factor is the maximum simplicity of the insulation. The best option in this case, it is foil penofol, or expanded polystyrene foam.
These materials have good thermal insulation properties, and, at the same time, they are quite inexpensive. Penofol with double-sided foil is great for internal insulation walls of the house, while expanded polystyrene should be used for external wall insulation.
2.1 Features of warming a country house with foam plastic (video)
Master of Architecture, graduated from the Samara State University of Architecture and Civil Engineering. 11 years of experience in design and construction.
A country house is a building that is initially calculated only for summer operation, therefore, during its construction, insufficient attention is paid to thermal insulation measures. If it is necessary to use it in the cold period, the question arises of how to insulate country house, intended for winter residence.
Why insulate
Warming the cottage will save on heating in winter Modern systems heating systems are able to create the desired temperature in the room, so why is it necessary to carry out additional measures. Insulation of a country house will allow the owner to solve the following problems:
- high heating costs;
- the appearance of condensation on the walls and ceiling;
- violation of the operation mode of structures and their destruction.
If during the cold season there is a positive temperature inside the house, but its enclosing structures are not insulated enough, this will lead to many problems, which are easier to prevent than to fix with your own hands.
Thermal insulation materials
Market building materials offers a huge range of types and manufacturers of thermal insulation materials. It is easy to get lost in this variety. The choice depends on the location of the thermal insulation and the wishes of the owner of the house. The main heat insulators include:
- Mineral wool. It is produced in the form of mats (rolls) and rigid plates. The first option is suitable for walls and floors along the logs, the second for walls, floors, roofs. The advantages include incombustibility, high efficiency, durability, resistance to decay and mold. The disadvantage is the ability to absorb moisture. It is important to remember that when working with this material, you need to use masks, gloves and overalls. Neglect of safety measures will lead to the ingress of cotton particles on the skin and lungs, and eventually to irritation and allergic reactions.
- Styrofoam. The material is made from polystyrene. It is a plate of small balls filled with air. The indisputable advantage was the low cost of the material and availability. There are quite a few shortcomings. These include combustibility, inability to pass air (the house will need additional ventilation), low strength and instability to the simultaneous effects of moisture and low temperatures. Suitable for do-it-yourself insulation of walls (it is recommended not to use it from the outside), ceilings (better for insulation from below), attic roofs.
- Extruded polystyrene foam (foam). The material is similar to foam, but is an improved version of it. It belongs to low-combustibility, has increased strength and moisture resistance. The disadvantages include air tightness. Suitable for insulating walls and floors (both interfloor ceilings and on the ground).
- Expanded clay. Inexpensive material. Compared to the previous three, it does not have high efficiency. Represents small granules of the baked clay, free-flowing. The disadvantages include high thermal conductivity and a large mass. Suitable for floor insulation (simultaneously levels the surface).
There are also a number of less common materials, these include:
- polyurethane foam;
- ecowool (insulation mats made of flax);
- penoizol (foamed polymer resin);
- isocom (foil material);
- sawdust.
How best to insulate
After choosing a heat insulator, you need to decide on the method of insulation. Do-it-yourself warming at home for winter living can be carried out in two ways:
- outside;
- from within.
Insulation of a country house from the inside is relevant in the following cases:
- work is carried out in winter, when it is not comfortable to perform operations on the street;
- it is impossible to affect the facade of the building and violate its decoration;
- wall insulation at a sufficiently high height.
It is important to remember that do-it-yourself insulation from the outside is more correct from a technical point of view.
Protecting the house from the cold air side helps prevent the effects of cold on the supporting structures and extend their service life.
Warming technology
It all depends on the location of the structure that needs to be protected. In the case of a country house for living in winter, the following elements need thermal insulation with their own hands:
- floors on the ground;
- floors of the first floor with a cold basement;
- exterior walls;
- attic floor when the attic is cold;
- mansard roof.
Each of these cases must be considered separately.
Ground floor insulation
An action may be required if the building has a basement that is planned to be used as warm room and carry out heating there. Two types of thermal insulation materials are suitable for this event:
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- expanded clay gravel.
Scheme of thermal insulation of the floor on the ground with expanded clay If expanded clay is used, then the work is performed in the following order:
- compact the base soil by tamping;
- perform backfilling of coarse or medium sand (thickness depends on the characteristics of the soil, is approximately 30 cm);
- expanded clay is poured (thickness is about 30-50 cm, depending on the climatic area of \u200b\u200bconstruction);
- lay a layer of waterproofing;
- pour concrete subfloor.
Styrofoam floor insulation scheme If a decision is made to insulate with foam plastic, work is carried out in the following sequence:
- compact the soil;
- make a backfill of sand or gravel;
- pour concrete;
- lay waterproofing;
- foam layer;
- reinforcing mesh;
- pouring a rough concrete floor.
For floors on the ground, it will be more economical and easier to use expanded clay. It is important to choose the right thickness depending on the outside temperature during the cold period.
Ceiling over the basement and attic
Laying insulation from above can be done in two ways:
- between lags;
- under the screed
thermal insulation attic floor between the lags of the cold attic and between wooden beams attic floor The choice depends on the constructive solution of the ceiling and the floor pie. Laying along the logs is suitable for houses with ceilings along the beams. In this case, almost any type of heat insulators can be used:
- polystyrene and foam plastic;
- mineral wool (slabs and mats);
- expanded clay and sawdust;
- polyurethane foam and penoizol;
- ecowool.
Laying under the screed requires increased strength from the material. Here it is better to stop at:
- mineral wool boards;
- penoplex;
- expanded clay.
The scheme of floor insulation under the screed When installing along the logs, beams are first mounted under the flooring, then waterproofing is laid between them (in the case of attic insulation from the outside, vapor barrier). Next, thermal insulation is laid in the space.
If the insulation is laid under the screed, then the work is carried out in this way:
- waterproofing is laid on a leveled and cleaned base (again, in the case of protecting the attic with your own hands from the outside - vapor barrier);
- put a heater (for penoplex provide for the distance between the plates);
- when warming from the outside, it is necessary to provide waterproofing, when warming from the inside - vapor barrier;
- lay the reinforcing mesh;
- pour the screed.
The second option for insulation is from the side of the ceiling. It is undesirable for the attic floor, since the thermal insulation is located on the side of warm air. For the basement floor, insulation from the outside is a more correct option, but extremely laborious. To fix the heat insulator use wooden slats or adhesives.
Wall insulation
Carried out from the inside and outside. When fixing the heat insulator with your own hands from the side of the facade, the work is performed in the following order:
- clean the wall from dust and dirt;
- fix waterproofing;
- mount a frame for insulation;
- lay thermal insulation;
- wind protection is fixed on the insulation layer;
- do the outer lining.
It is important to remember that for materials such as mineral wool and ecowool, it is necessary to provide a ventilated layer on the outside between the heat insulator and outer skin, 5-10 cm thick. The fastening of heat-insulating materials to the wall depends on the type chosen.
When installing thermal insulation from the inside, follow this order:
- cleaning the surface from dust and dirt;
- fixing waterproofing;
- installation of a heater;
- vapor barrier;
- interior decoration.
mansard roof
The most common type of insulation is rigid mineral wool slabs. Work order:
- installation of the truss system;
- fixing waterproofing and wind protection;
- installation of a counter-lattice (needed to ensure a ventilation gap between the mineral wool and roofing, for the free movement of air in the counter-lattice, breaks are provided);
- installation of the crate;
- laying roofing material;
- installation of heat insulator plates between the rafters;
- vapor barrier;
- bottom crate;
- ceiling lining.
For the convenience of laying mineral wool, the pitch of the rafters is taken so that 58 or 118 cm remain in the light between them. After the thermal insulation of the roof, the insulation of the house is completed.
