The bathroom is the face of every home, the appearance of which speaks of the wealth, thriftiness and style of the homeowners. The central place in the bathroom is occupied by the bathtub, which is used for hygiene procedures or washing. Selecting and installing a washing container is the most important stage renovations in this room. To save money on calling a professional technician, you can install the tank yourself. In this article we will tell you how to secure a bathtub so that it does not wobble, but stands steadily.
Choosing a bath
A bathtub is a large-volume sanitary container that is used for washing, laundry and other household needs. Some time ago, they tried to displace shower stalls with this device, however, they were defeated due to their lower functionality. Bathtubs are made from materials that can withstand the weight of water and the person using it, so that it retains heat for a long time, and maintains its appearance and seal when in contact with water.
They produce 3 types of sanitary containers:
- Cast iron. Cast iron bath classic version, perfectly retains heat and has high strength. The disadvantage of cast iron models is their heavy weight; a bathtub made of this metal weighs 80-150 kg. The high weight complicates transportation and installation. In addition, cast iron containers are expensive and have a limited range of standard shapes and sizes.
Note! To ensure that the bathtub stands level after installation and does not wobble, you need to choose the right container size. The length of the bathtub should correspond to the distance between the walls minus 3-5 cm. When deciding which bathtub to choose, give preference to models that best match the calculated dimensions, so that after installation is completed there are no gaps between it and the walls through which water can penetrate. Right choice The size of the container will make it much easier to attach the bath to the wall and floor of the room.
Installation features
The question of how to fix the bathtub so that it does not play or wobble worries most homeowners if they are renovating the bathroom with their own hands. The process of installing a sanitary container for washing has its own nuances and tricks, but you can cope with this task on your own, taking into account the mounting features various types baths:
- The most difficult moment of installation cast iron bath– bringing this container weighing more than 100 kg into the room and installing it on the floor. For installation you will need 4 supports, which are supplied with the selected model. A cast iron bathtub is installed on the bathroom floor using legs secured to the bottom of the container with special wedges or bolts. To distribute the load from the weight of the bathroom, a metal sheet is laid on the floor.
Important! When renovating a bathroom, the bathtub is installed in place only after the floor has been finished with ceramic tiles. To provide access to the floor under the bathtub, the container is raised and then placed on bricks or wooden blocks.
Installation Rules
When purchasing a bathtub, be sure to pay attention to the mounting system it comes with. After purchasing a sanitary container, carefully read the instructions and become familiar with the installation method recommended by the manufacturer for this model.
In most cases, the bathroom installation process looks like this:
- Before securing steel bath, it is necessary to prepare the site for installation. If used as finishing ceramic tile, then you need to lay tiles on the floor and walls where the container is located.
- The bathtub is turned over on its side and then carefully placed on the floor, since in this position it is much more convenient to connect the drain and overflow pipe.
- Without changing the position of the sanitary container, the floor siphon is connected to plastic pipes using a sealant or sealant.
- The legs are screwed or glued to the bottom of the bathroom, adjusting the supports in height.
- The bathtub is placed in such a way that the siphon can be connected to the sewer system.
- If necessary, a podium made of bricks or other moisture-resistant materials is built under the bottom of the bathroom. They make a frame to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
- Lastly, you need to hermetically seal the joints between the walls and the sanitary container using sealant, moisture-resistant solution or plastic corner.
After completing the installation, experienced craftsmen check the quality and reliability of the fastening. To do this, the sanitary container is completely filled with water to check whether the drain is working correctly, whether it is swinging or leaking.
Video instruction
Old style cast iron bathtubs are quite difficult to move. But modern steel and acrylic models, due to their low weight, are quite unstable. If installed incorrectly, they will wobble during use or move out of place with the slightest push, ruining the finish of the walls and floor. Let's talk about how to fix a bathtub - steel or acrylic - to avoid such troubles.
Choose the right plumbing fixtures
The stability of the bathtub depends not only on the procedure for its installation, but also on the dimensions of the bowl of this plumbing fixture. In order for the bathtub to stand securely, its dimensions must correspond to the distance between the walls at the installation site, minus 2.5–3 centimeters on each side. Under such conditions, it will be easier to secure the bowl to the walls and floor. In addition, in this case there will be no gap between the bathtub and the walls, into which water will inevitably get in during use.
Features of steel bathtubs
Among all types of baths steel models The hardest thing to do is to keep it stationary. This is due to two features of their design:
- low weight of the bowl;
- lack of fastenings for legs.
On cast iron and acrylic models, special fasteners are usually located on the outside of the bowl, to which the legs can be securely screwed. Manufacturers of steel bathtubs have abandoned these parts. Since steel is quite soft material, there is a high risk that when used, the bathtub may bend under the weight of the water collected in it, plus the body immersed in it. In this case, the fasteners will inevitably damage the enamel coating of the bowl.
Read: what wallpaper can be glued in the bathroom.
Legs for steel plumbing fixtures are usually a kind of trestles or supports. The bathtub is supposed to simply rest on them. Some leg models can be supplemented with an adhesive layer for more reliable fixation to the bottom of the bowl. But this doesn't improve the situation much. Therefore, it is recommended to use more reliable structural elements in addition to the legs.
How to fix a steel bathtub so it doesn't wobble
There are several ways to install a steel bathtub in a stable position. Most often it is recommended to make a brick stand under the plumbing bowl. But this option is not suitable for everyone. First, execution brickwork requires certain skills and abilities. Not every homeowner can build a reliable stand with their own hands. And in this case, quite high demands are placed on the quality of the masonry, since it will be constantly exposed to moisture and serious weight.
Secondly, in many houses, especially those related to the old foundation, the interfloor ceilings may simply not withstand the weight of the brick substrate. As a result, installing a bathtub can result in a utility accident for you and your neighbors below. Plus, not everyone wants to wait several days for the masonry mortar to dry and acquire the strength necessary for installing plumbing. Therefore it is better to use more simple options fixing the bathtub.
Advice: if you still want to install a steel bathtub on a stand, make it not from brick, but from gas block. This material weighs much less and is more convenient to install.
To the simplest and most reliable installation methods steel bath relate:
- fastening to walls using metal corners;
- installation on a metal profile frame;
- use of special fasteners.
Where does the installation of a bathtub begin?
Whatever installation method you choose, remember the main thing - installing a bathtub begins with fitting. First, the bowl is placed in the right place on its legs, its position is leveled and connected to the water supply and sewerage system. After this, you should check the performance of the product and especially the quality of water drainage. As you know, the bathtub should be at a slight angle: only in this case will the drain work correctly.
Having found out the optimal angle of inclination of the bowl by adjusting its height, mark the position of the sides on the wall. Using these marks, you will later install fasteners for the bathtub: steel or acrylic. After marking, disconnect the plumbing fixture from the communications and remove it from the premises.
Important! The final installation of a steel bathtub, regardless of the methods of its fastening, should be carried out after the floor of the room is completely finished with tiles or other material.
Installation of steel bowl on corners
A fairly reliable option for attaching a bathtub is to support the sides of the bathtub on wide metal corners, screwed to the walls, in addition to the legs. This method will suit you if the walls of the room are made of sufficiently durable material and were leveled with plaster or tile adhesive. TO plasterboard structures It is better not to fasten the bathtub: they will not withstand such weight.
Important! Installation of corners should be done after finishing the walls of the room is completed.
You can hang the corners only on two walls, against which the short edges of the bowl will then rest, or on all three vertical surfaces with which it will come into contact. To avoid damaging the finish, first use a special drill to make holes for fasteners in the tile. After that, you can drill through them directly into the wall, using, depending on its material, a drill bit with a pobedit tip or a hammer drill.
The location for attaching the corners should be determined by pre-made marks. At the same time, keep in mind that the bathtub will rest on them with its sides, but part of its weight should also fall on the legs. Don't forget to adjust for the thickness of the corner.
We advise you to learn about the features of toilets with a vertical outlet to the floor.
Installing a bathtub on a frame
If you plan to cover the space under the bowl with a decorative screen, The best way, how to strengthen a steel bathtub so that it does not wobble is to place it on metal carcass. The structure is made from UD and CD wall profiles. The first is fixed to the floor using dowels as a base for the frame. The upper frame and supports for it are assembled from the second. It is also possible to make a welded support structure from:
- metal corner;
- steel pipes of suitable diameter.
Important! The size of the frame is selected in such a way that the profile of the upper frame fits snugly against the walls of the bowl, while the bathtub itself stands firmly on its legs.
Corner posts made of profiles are fastened to the upper and lower frames, and also, for greater reliability, attached to the walls of the room. The construction of the frame should be done after finishing the walls or, at least, after tiling that part of them that will be located above the bowl. Upon completion of installation, the frame can be sheathed plastic panels or plasterboard, which is then covered with tiles.
Important! When covering, do not forget to leave an inspection hatch for access to communications located under the bathroom.
Using special fasteners
If the bathtub bowl rests firmly enough on the legs, you can limit yourself to attaching it to the wall using special fasteners. They are sold in a wide variety in construction and plumbing supermarkets. This operation should be carried out before finishing walls In the future, the fasteners are hidden under tiles, which helps not only to improve the aesthetics of the room, but also to increase the reliability of fastening.
Reliable ways to attach a bathtub to the wall
When selling a bathtub, it includes legs or a more or less complex frame designed for its secure installation on the base. The design of any manufacturer is designed so that stability is not lost under the most unfavorable combination of loads - in the form of a full volume of water and a person sitting, standing on the bottom or climbing over the side.
With the advent of steel, and later acrylic bathtubs, many users of such sanitary equipment began to have doubts about the sufficient stability of the lightweight structure. People reacted simply - instead of standard legs or frame supporting structure They began to build a brick bed or several supports, on which the body of a bathtub of any shape was installed. There was a need to fix a light bathtub to the wall.
Bath stability
The stability of the bathtub in the vertical direction is beyond doubt with any design of standard legs - they will all withstand the weight of water and this is felt by users. The only understandable concern is the stability of the body in the horizontal direction - in fact, light steel and acrylic bathtubs can be thrown out of balance in this direction.
One of the typical products is a bracket designed for attaching a bathtub to a wall. You can see how reliably the engagement of the curved edge of the side is ensured acrylic bathtub for this bracket
Users' concerns are not unfounded. Even the smallest degree of freedom of movement in any direction is dangerous by violating the integrity of the sewer drain connection. In some cases - a violation of the tightness of the seal connecting the housing to the wall.
That is why, to ensure complete stability, you need to ensure that the bathtub is secured to the wall. In this case, the possibility of horizontal vibrations disappears. The bathtub becomes completely stable regardless of the force applied to it.
Attaching the bathtub body to the walls
In a bathroom, the bathtub can be located in four layout positions:
- Island position - in the middle of the room.
- Near one wall.
- In a corner, in contact with two walls.
- In a niche, close to the walls on three sides.
It is important to mount it to the wall when placing the bathtub with only one side to the wall, sometimes in a corner position. The body, pinched on three sides, is completely unshakable.
The only technical possibility of attaching a bathtub to a wall is based on the fact that its sides of any design are bent downwards. This bend is what needs to be kept from moving the bathtub. The complexity of this operation lies in the fact that the natural place where you need to secure the side to the wall is inaccessible - it is covered by the housing.
Any way to secure the bathtub to vertical plane is to pre-install on this plane such fastening elements that will securely engage with the side bent downwards - when this side is lowered into place.
For such fasteners, you can use branded factory-made brackets, with the possibility of adjustment and rubber gaskets. A home craftsman can install a homemade profile from a steel angle - such a fastening can be much more reliable than a branded one. You can even use L-shaped dowel fastenings. You can make rubber gaskets yourself - the fastening will be more reliable.
The height of the bathtub from the floor, there is also a standard for this parameter - read about it in our material.
How to select and install hot tub, you can read in this article.
Wall mounting technology
Any fastener must provide several important conditions for reliable and durable operation:
- strong retention in the wall;
- The main retaining element of the fastener, bent upward, should have a slight downward approach to the wall. This is necessary so that the side of the bathtub, put on such fasteners, goes down during installation, and is pressed close to the wall;
- high accuracy of marking and installation of all components of such a system must be ensured.
After determining the level of the lower edge of the bathtub, mark it on the wall with a line. Fasteners - staples, dowels or corners must be secured so that the side of the bathtub engages with them and the canvas is pressed against the wall. It is necessary to attach the side so that it cannot be moved by hand under the strongest impact.
Here is an approximate sequence of actions for installing a bathtub and attaching it to the wall:
- You must first completely assemble the entire structure of the bathtub including the legs and support frame. The adjusting screws of the legs should be positioned in the middle position.
- Using the assembled bathtub, the level of the side on the wall is marked and the selected fasteners are installed. Before making such markings, you need to put the bathtub in place and find out the features of its horizontal adjustment.
- The bathtub complex with the support part is carefully lowered from top to bottom so that the side engages with the fasteners.
- The adjusting screws are used to finally level the bathtub body.
When the bath has taken its position, you can connect utility networks, and after that - lay out brick supports that will ensure the complete inviolability of this structure.
The difficulty of installing brick supports when installed bathtub is compensated by the fact that the master will not be able to place these supports where it would interfere with connecting the bathtub - all connections have already been made and are in plain sight. Brick supports do not reach up to the bathtub body by 10-20 m and this gap is filled polyurethane foam, having first filled the bath with water.
However, you can secure the bathtub using another sequence of actions. The main thing is to make sure that the invisible downward-curved edge of the bathtub side is securely engaged with the fasteners.
Bathtub installation practice has shown that homemade devices fasteners and supports made of brick, concrete, and designer steel structures most often surpass in reliability the standard structures of the most famous manufacturers. Thoughtful rationalization of this type allows you to consider the bathtub absolutely reliable, without worrying about its stability and even operate it in any mode.
How to strengthen a bathtub so it doesn't wobble
- 1 Methods of fixing bathtubs
- 2 Polyurethane foam
- 3 Application of a brick frame
- 4 Installation on a metal frame
- 5 Inserting a bathtub into a niche
- 6 Videos
When carrying out renovations in an apartment with a complete replacement of plumbing, its owners quite often have to deal with the problem of securely fastening the equipment installed in the bathroom. This is especially true for the work procedures for installing a new bathroom, the specific installation of which is determined by many factors, including the material of the product and its texture. Thus, the traditional cast iron bath It is best to install it using a long-established method, which involves its reliable support on the height-adjustable legs included in the kit.
For lighter acrylic bathtubs, for example, additional fastening will be required to ensure its reliable fixation and uniform distribution of loads throughout the body. In our article we will consider in detail the installation features of each of the samples of this plumbing product.
Methods of fixing bathtubs
Legs for steel bathtub
For anyone who wants to figure out how to strengthen a bathtub so that it doesn’t wobble, we advise you, first of all, to decide on the material from which it is made, since this largely determines the method of its installation.
When choosing a product, you most often encounter the following options:
For each of the samples of these products, a special one must be used, only for it suitable way fastenings, taking into account the peculiarities of the relief of the walls of the bathroom itself.
Legs for acrylic bathtub
Cast iron bathtubs are sufficiently stable due to their significant mass, so their installation is permissible anywhere in the room. Typically, such bathtubs are installed on standard legs that are included in the delivery of the product and are securely fixed to its body using special steel wedges or bolts. As an additional fastening, a pre-laid brick base or corners fixed to the wall can be used (in the case of a brick base, its body may not be located close to the walls).
It is best to place a steel bathtub on several support points, so it should be located directly against the wall. Since the legs included in its kit do not provide the required reliability of fixation, a special brick podium is often used to increase the stability of the product.
The following techniques can be used to secure a steel bath:
- the use of polyurethane foam, which seals the junction with the wall and at the same time strengthens the contact area;
- installation of special metal profiles on the walls to provide additional support;
- and finally, a regular wall insert.
To securely fasten and ensure uniform distribution of loads, it is best to install an acrylic bathtub on the same brick podium or use a special metal frame for these purposes.
Let's consider each of the methods of attaching bathtubs discussed in this chapter in more detail.
Polyurethane foam
Using polyurethane foam
Using polyurethane foam to fix a bathtub is the simplest and most affordable method of simultaneously fixing it to the floor and walls. When implementing this method, the bathtub is first adjusted in place and height using adjustable legs so that there is a gap of about 0.75–1.5 cm at the walls, and then it is filled to the brim with water.
After this, you can begin to seal the gaps between the bathtub body and the adjacent walls of the room, as well as between its legs and the floor using polyurethane foam.
Sealing foam tends to expand when it dries, so its use must be strictly dosed. Otherwise, unwanted deformations of the structure are possible, reducing the reliability of its fixation. Despite the fact that the “setting” time of the polyurethane foam is about 12–35 hours, work on finishing the walls can begin in about 6 hours.
Application of brick frame
Using a brick frame
A brick frame is most often used in cases where you decide to fix the bathtub without the help of legs and ensure even distribution of loads along the entire perimeter of the support. With this installation method, it is possible to lay out the frame both along the bathroom and across it.
In the case of a transverse arrangement, the bathtub must rest directly on the brick, which will require additional fastening of the frame to the walls using metal corners (steel or aluminum). In this case, the pre-prepared corners are fixed with dowels on the wall so that the free edges of the bathtub have additional support and it does not wobble when pressed.
Installing a bathtub on bricks
When laid longitudinally, something like a trough is formed, into which the installed bathtub product is placed. The gap or cavity formed between the walls of such a base and the bathtub itself must be sealed with polyurethane foam, which also helps to increase the reliability of its fastening. If the front wall is laid out to the very top, it is possible to completely hide the body of the bathtub, thus preparing the base for subsequent tiling with ceramic tiles.
Brick screen
When performing this work, it is imperative to provide a small inspection hole necessary to provide access to the siphon. When finishing, this hole can be closed with a piece of drywall or by installing a small plastic door. In the case when you plan to decorate the walls with ceramic tiles, a ready-made screen can be used as the front panel of such a base.
Installation on a metal frame
This method of fixing bathtubs is mainly used during installation acrylic products, which, as a rule, already includes a ready-made steel frame (if it is not available, this accessory can always be purchased separately or made independently). During the installation of such a bathtub, the installation or guide strips of the frame are first attached to its bottom using self-tapping screws (note that they are fastened in places specially designated for this purpose, which have thickenings). And then the included legs are installed on the guides secured in this way using a bolted connection.
Additional support
After securing the legs, the bathtub will need to be put in place and the points where its body will touch the walls of the room must be marked, after which special strips will be installed at these points to provide additional support.
It is necessary to leave a small gap between the bar and the side (no more than 2–4 mm), taking into account the expansion of the bath after filling it with water.
Inserting a bathtub into a niche
Insert into a niche
In small-sized apartments, a situation very often arises when a bathtub is placed with great difficulty in the space allocated for it, which, on the one hand, significantly complicates its installation, and on the other hand, provides the possibility of rigid and reliable fixation in a bathroom niche.
To insert and rigidly fasten the bathtub, you will need to prepare grooves in the wall on each of its sides according to the thickness of the edge of the product (for these purposes, you can use a hammer drill or grinder). The edges or flaps of the bathtub should be inserted into the grooves prepared with their help with a slight “tightness”, which guarantees maximum rigidity of the fastening due to the complete absence of play.
If the legs supplied in the kit are not sufficiently rigid, you can further strengthen the fastening of the bathtub by using special transverse profiles that serve as supports for its flaps.
Video
How to install a bathtub in a groove, see below:
The bathroom is the face of every home, the appearance of which speaks of the wealth, thriftiness and style of the homeowners. The central place in the bathroom is occupied by the bathtub, which is used for hygiene procedures or washing. The selection and installation of a washing container is the most important stage of renovation in this room. To save money on calling a professional technician, you can install the tank yourself. In this article we will tell you how to secure a bathtub so that it does not wobble, but stands steadily.
Choosing a bath
A bathtub is a large-volume sanitary container that is used for washing, laundry and other household needs. Some time ago, they tried to displace shower stalls with this device, however, they were defeated due to their lower functionality. Bathtubs are made from materials that can withstand the weight of water and the person using it, so that it retains heat for a long time, and maintains its appearance and seal when in contact with water.
They produce 3 types of sanitary containers:
Note! To ensure that the bathtub stands level after installation and does not wobble, you need to choose the right container size. The length of the bathtub should correspond to the distance between the walls minus 3-5 cm. When deciding which bathtub to choose, give preference to models that best match the calculated dimensions, so that after installation is completed there are no gaps between it and the walls through which water can penetrate. Choosing the right container size will make it much easier to attach the bathtub to the wall and floor of the room.
Installation features
The question of how to fix the bathtub so that it does not play or wobble worries most homeowners if they are renovating the bathroom with their own hands. The process of installing a sanitary container for washing has its own nuances and tricks, but you can cope with this task on your own, taking into account the peculiarities of fastening various types of bathtubs:
Important! When renovating a bathroom, the bathtub is installed in place only after the floor has been finished with ceramic tiles. To provide access to the floor under the bathtub, the container is raised and then placed on bricks or wooden blocks.
Installation Rules
When purchasing a bathtub, be sure to pay attention to the mounting system it comes with. After purchasing a sanitary container, carefully read the instructions and become familiar with the installation method recommended by the manufacturer for this model.
In most cases, the bathroom installation process looks like this:
- Before fixing the steel bathtub, it is necessary to prepare the installation site. If ceramic tiles are used as finishing, then you need to lay tiles on the floor and walls where the container is located.
- The bathtub is turned over on its side and then carefully placed on the floor, since in this position it is much more convenient to connect the drain and overflow pipe.
- Without changing the position of the sanitary container, the floor siphon is connected to plastic pipes using a sealant or sealant.
- The legs are screwed or glued to the bottom of the bathroom, adjusting the supports in height.
- The bathtub is placed in such a way that the siphon can be connected to the sewer system.
- If necessary, a podium made of bricks or other moisture-resistant materials is built under the bottom of the bathroom. They make a frame to hide the pipes behind a decorative screen.
- Lastly, you need to hermetically seal the joints between the walls and the sanitary container using sealant, moisture-resistant solution or plastic corner.
After completing the installation, experienced craftsmen check the quality and reliability of the fastening. To do this, the sanitary container is completely filled with water to check whether the drain is working correctly, whether it is swinging or leaking.
Video instruction
Let's take a step-by-step look at installing a steel bathtub. Let's securely fasten it to the legs, learn about installation tricks that increase the service life and performance of plumbing fixtures, and make a niche for the bathtub from moisture-resistant plasterboard and a Knauf metal profile.
Step 1: Installing the Legs
A steel rectangular bathtub from the Spanish company Roca of the Contesa series with dimensions of 1700x700x400 mm was chosen for installation. The bath volume is 185 l, and the steel thickness is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of a steel bath is its lightness. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person can easily install it. But installing a cast iron bathtub alone will not be easy. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. You will have to involve an assistant or even a team.
Installing a bathtub begins with attaching the legs. To avoid damage flooring, put something soft under the bath. You don’t have to remove the factory cardboard for now; it’s a reliable backing against scratches. Turning the bath over. Self-adhesive structures, as in our case, which follow the contour of the bottom, are considered good legs for mounting. They have height adjustment, preventing distortions and unevenness of the floor. To install a bathtub with legs, first try on U-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, ensuring reliable adhesion. We attach the structures using double-sided tape. We fix the supports exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding distortion. Bolt-on legs are also available, but we do not recommend using them. They may not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage the enamel.
The legs are supplied with long adjusting pins. They must be inserted all the way into the plastic tips. We do this smoothly, making sure that it doesn’t break threaded connection. Adjust the stud using a rubber hammer.
Let's start installing the studs. First screw the nuts to the plastic ends and screw the pin into the designated hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bathtub in height and horizon.
Step 2: Collecting drain fittings
After installing the legs, turn the bathtub over. We install a drainage system. Let's unpack it and study the instructions. We start the assembly with the bottom drain.
We install the drain socket into the technological hole under the bottom of the bathtub. This element consists of two parts - a tube with a funnel-shaped expansion and a bowl-shaped chrome-plated part that prevents large debris from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additional silicone for a reliable seal.
Let's move on to connecting the overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in the upper hole under the side of the bathtub, and the second - to the lower drain, leading to sewer drain. When purchasing a kit, select a corrugated overflow tube. It is easy to install, has a larger outer diameter clearance than a rigid tube, which means the likelihood of water overflowing is minimal.
The modern market offers two drainage systems for bathtubs. A well-known set with a plug on a chain and an automatic stopper. In the second option, opening (closing) occurs using a mechanism that is mounted on the overflow, like ours. In this case, there is no need to bend down and pull out the plug; just turn the lever.
This is what the final installation looks like drain system.
Step 3: Calculate the height of the bath and install the stop
We calculate the height at which the bath will be installed. Correct measurement will ensure not only a good fit with facing tiles and the supply of a plumbing unit, but will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. The likelihood of foreign odors leaking out in this case is minimal. An additional raising of the bathtub by just 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and debris in the siphon and metal drain mesh.
To strengthen the bathtub against the wall, install a stop, the main thing is that it is stable. We used metallic profile Knauf company.
We fasten the profile using dowel screws, choose the pitch yourself. It is advisable to install fasteners as often as possible.
This is what the metal stop looks like after attaching it to the dowel screws.
Step 4: Installing the Bathtub on Bricks
We return the bathtub and put it in place. Since the drain hole in the wall is high and the legs are not long enough, you will have to install the bathtub on bricks to level it out. In addition, the metal legs are not strong enough and heavy, and can easily become twisted under the weight of the body or water. Beauty is not the main thing here, since in the future you will cover the niche under the bathtub with plasterboard and tile it. When marking the brick, do not forget to leave enough space at the siphon so that you have easy access. We lay bricks using cement-sand mortar.
Draw a line against the wall and move the bathtub away. We apply silicone sealant onto the screwed profile, and below the marked line. After applying the silicone, we put the bathtub in its original place.
We level the bath evenly using the adjusting bolts.
We seal the joints between the bathtub and the wall with silicone sealant.
To firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen them with fragments of brick, and seal the joints with cement mortar. The legs should be sealed especially firmly when installing a heavy cast iron bathtub.
After we have pulled the back corner of the bathtub and securely attached it to the wall, we attach a file at the ends for rigidity and set it on tile adhesive.
Step 5: Connecting the siphon to the sewer and checking for leaks
When the silicone sealant and glue have dried, we proceed to connecting the siphon to the sewer drain.
The connection will be made using a rigid structure. To install the system, we use corners at 45°C. Unlike a corrugated tube, such a system is easier to operate and clean. If a blockage occurs, it is enough to open the shut-off valve and clean the drain.
This is what the system should look like after connecting the hard siphon to the sewer.
We install the bottom drain plug and the rotary lever to open and close the side drain.
To check the quality of the installation of the drainage system, open the tap and fill the bath with water. When the plug is closed, there is no leakage - the upper neck is assembled correctly.
When the bath is half full, open the plug and check all other connections for the possibility of leaks.
Everything is dry, you can use the bathroom. If leaks are observed, most likely you have not tightened the nuts tightly, a misalignment has occurred, or the adapters have not been fixed tightly enough. Tighten the nuts and point the structure in the desired direction.
Step 6: Foaming and covering the bathtub niche
Despite the advantages, a steel bathtub has two main disadvantages: the water in it cools quickly and it creates increased noise when drawing water. A budget option To eliminate these problems - blowing with polyurethane foam. Installation of acrylic and cast iron bathtubs does not require this procedure. These materials have good noise insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve their quality characteristics, no one forbids you to blow off such baths. It is better to apply polyurethane foam to a moistened surface than to a dry one, in small areas. Leave a small gap around the technological holes, about 2 cm. Excess foam can be easily removed using a sharp blade.
Let's start assembling the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you again use the Knauf profile. We start by marking the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and secure them with dowel nails. We install the profile on the sides, deepening it into the niche to the thickness of the drywall sheets and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22–24 mm, taking into account that the thickness of the plasterboard sheet is about 12–13 mm, and the tiles with glue are 10–11 mm. It is better to take the distance with reserve. If the niche is slightly recessed, it’s not a big deal. But the bulging of the slab will look ugly. We connect the side strips with a wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bathtub, foaming the gaps. We fix the vertical profiles in the middle using self-tapping screws.
Let's start covering, using moisture-resistant Knauf plasterboard. The standard sheet size is 3000×1200×12 mm. For a bathtub up to 170 cm long, no more than one such sheet will be required. For the inclined surface of the niche, measure a rectangle required length and width, cut and fasten. Sew up the rest of the niche. We close the resulting space between the inclined and straight parts with plasterboard triangles cut to size. We do not pay attention to small cracks; these errors will not be visible under the tiles. After covering we make a window the right size and install a plumbing hatch. The final stage is applying glue and tiling.
Step 7: Sealing the seams with silicone
The missing tiles between the bathroom and the wall have been laid, the seams have been rubbed, now we proceed to last stage finishing - sealing seams. We clean the seam between the bathtub and the wall and wipe everything dry. To seal, we will use white silicone, which will prevent water from leaking through the side of the bathtub.
To prevent silicone from covering the tiles and bathtub, we glue a barrier in the form of masking tape around the entire perimeter. It will prevent sealant from getting on the cladding and plumbing.
Fill the cleaned and prepared seam with white silicone sealant.
Make the seam even, smear it carefully with your finger, plastic spatula or spatula. Wipe off excess sealant with a wet rag.
When the silicone dries slightly, carefully remove the masking tape.
After the silicone has completely hardened, the bath is ready for use.
The bathroom has always been and remains almost the main room in the house. It is from the comfort and convenience of acceptance water procedures In the morning, your mood for the whole day depends, and a pleasant bath in the evening will calm you down and set you up for a pleasant night's rest. Therefore, every owner strives to create maximum convenience in the bathroom. And here you can’t do without a spacious bath bowl. Of course, sometimes you have to do renovation work and update plumbing. The most difficult procedure is replacing the font, especially if you have to do it for the first time. So, installing a steel bath: the nuances of choosing ditches and what you will have to face during installation.
Steel baths: pros, cons of bowls and ways to eliminate shortcomings
Steel bathtubs have a durable enamel coating
The practicality of steel bowls has long been known to customers. In addition, cuvettes have one invaluable advantage - affordable cost. But, before you know how to install a steel bathtub, it’s worth understanding all the nuances in a little more detail. Steel bowls have many more advantages than disadvantages, especially since they can be easily eliminated. The main advantages include:
- High-quality steel bathtubs have a particularly durable enamel coating. This is due to the fact that manufacturers literally “baker” the enamel into the surface. After this technological treatment, the enamel layer, like the steel itself, acquires a special level of strength.
- Steel bathtubs do not lose their attractiveness for a long time appearance, remaining snow-white even after many years of use.
- The plastic material allows the bowls to be made in the most various forms and modifications.
- Light weight makes it easy to transport and install. Installing a metal bathtub with your own hands is a completely affordable procedure for a person who has a little patience and free time.
- Large size range. Due to the plasticity of the material, steel bathtubs are most often produced in atypical sizes.
Inexpensive models can become deformed under heavy loads
Flaws:
- Bathtub models that are too cheap are prone to deformation under increased loads. Installing a steel bathtub with your own hands will be difficult, since any bending will lead to cracks in the enamel.
Advice! To prevent this from happening, you need to buy models with a wall thickness of at least 2.5-3 mm.
- The high level of thermal conductivity of the metal does not require heating the walls when pouring water, but at the same time it gives off heat just as easily, which means that the question of how to insulate a steel bathtub needs to be addressed.
Advice! Insulation can be done using polyurethane foam, covering the bowl from the outside with it.
- Noise threshold when filling a bowl. The hum can be reduced if you know how to properly install a steel bathtub and foam it with reverse side.
Now all the advantages and disadvantages of steel ditches are clear and you can begin installation. So, how to install a metal bathtub, and what tools are needed for the work?
Materials and tools required for installing a steel bathtub
Bathtub Installation Tools
In order for the installation of a metal bathtub with your own hands to be excellent, you must have the following components:
- drill with attachments;
- wrench;
- dry cement and sand;
- plumbing sealant;
- insulating tape;
- polyurethane foam;
- waterproof enamel or paint;
- construction level;
- corrugated pipe;
- tub siphon fitting;
- drain/overflow
Do-it-yourself installation of an iron bathtub begins with checking the condition of the sewerage system. If changes and additions are necessary, you need to improve the operation of the entire structure, otherwise the installation of the steel bathtub will be unsuccessful and everything will have to be redone.
Installation of a steel bathtub on corners, bricks or in a box must be done in such a way that it can be connected to the water supply system and taps without problems. In addition, a siphon, overflow, corrugated pipe for water drainage, and tees must be connected to the communications. Only after this, assemble the harness and treat the joints with sealant.
Advice! The bathtub harness is easy to assemble if you follow the instructions included with the product.
The choice of siphon is another point that must be taken into account before installing an iron bathtub. There are several types of accessories on sale that you can pay attention to:
- Semi-automatic are designs that drain water by turning a special washer. You don't have to fumble around the bottom of the bathtub to find the stopper. One turn of the hinge, the plug rises and drains without unnecessary intervention;
- The conventional plastic design fits all types of bowls and requires minimal installation effort. In addition, such a siphon costs much less than a semi-automatic system.
Important! Some siphons are equipped with metal outlets mounted to the overflow using a bolt. Installation of such a device is simple, as is the installation of an iron bathtub in general, but when choosing this design, pay attention to the manufacturer: metal parts that are not treated against corrosion will become unusable too quickly!
Installation of a steel bath
Installation of a corner on the wall to support the font
You can install a steel bathtub yourself in the following way:
- Tidy up the area of the room where the bathtub will be located: fill/screed, lay tiles or other floor covering.
- Provide necessary supports. How to properly install an iron bathtub? It is best to install on 2.5 cm corners. To do this, holes are drilled in the corners themselves and markings are made on the wall. Afterwards, attach the corners to the marking points using self-tapping screws/dowels, keeping in mind the height of the legs of the bathtub bowl and the slope, which you must pay attention to during installation.
Advice! When mounting on a wall, the mounting angles must be in the same plane!
- You need to continue attaching the steel bathtub to the wall with the bowl itself. Introduce the cuvette and place it in the prepared place (it is better to place it on its side). In this case, the bottom should be facing wall panel, and the hole through which the water will drain is located on the side of the sewer drain left in the floor.
- The installation of the iron bathtub continues with the installation of legs in the upper side. The bolts do not need to be tightened to the limit; it is better to use moderate force, since with persistent pressure there is a danger of breaking the nut. Then screw on the second pair of legs, having first turned the bathtub onto the other side.
Advice! Adjustable legs can be purchased separately or you can look at the hot tub kit, which already includes supports of the desired type.
- Checking the strength of the fastening and setting the height is the next step. Installation of a metal bathtub is shown to be carried out with a slight inclination towards the drainage of water.
- Now you need to turn the bowl over, put it on its feet and fill the gap near the wall with foam, sealant or tile adhesive.
Height is adjustable with special retractable legs
Advice! Foaming is necessary to prevent moisture from getting into the gap, to ensure stability of the bowl if the load on one edge exceeds acceptable standards. To make the junction look aesthetically pleasing, it is decorated plastic corner, painted over or tiled.
- Connecting the corrugated pipe and piping is the next step. Installation is carried out in the direction of the strapping and then the nut is tightened.
- Knowing how to secure a steel bathtub and having completed all the steps, you need to check the correctness of the connection. To do this, water is drawn into the bowl and possible leaks are inspected. If the plug in the font is closed, but there is water leaking out, it means that the gasket is not installed well enough or the nut is not tightened completely. If there are no leaks, you need to drain the water and inspect the connection of the piping.
- The last check will show how tight the connections are: wipe the floor under the bathroom dry, put toilet paper or blotting paper under the pipes. Fill the font with water to half the level (preferably boiling water), open the plug and wait until it drains completely. The paper is dry - everything is sealed and the insulation of the steel bath is perfect.
Important! Be sure to ground the steel bathtub! The procedure is simple: one end of the wire is attached to a metal structure, the other end is in the bathtub bowl. Under no circumstances should the bowl be grounded to the plumbing or heating system!
Insulation of a steel bath
Insulation of the font with polyurethane foam
It’s clear how to fix a metal bathtub; now it needs to be insulated. Necessity of this action is determined by the thinness of the walls of the iron bowl and high thermal conductivity qualities. Insulation of a steel bath can be done in two ways:
- Foam the outer surface of the bowl with regular mounting foam. This must be done without skipping and as carefully as possible. If, after the final insulation, additional decoration of the font is planned, the foam needs to be leveled.
Advice! After complete hardening, the foam can be painted, sewn up with plastic, or protected in some other way.
- The bathtub bowl is framed with wooden/steel/plastic guides, creating the appearance of a lathing (frame). Then the structure is tiled. So when filling the bath hot water a thermos effect is created, that is, the air space between the bathtub wall and the tile heats up and retains heat.
Thermal insulation of a steel bath is not difficult, but necessary. A well-known decorative technique is leveling polyurethane foam with the effect of creating relief plaster, followed by painting with waterproof enamel. Foaming a steel bathtub is not at all difficult, but if you want to achieve the perfect effect, silicone sealant is applied on top of the foam. The method guarantees ideal heat retention, which means that the consumption of boiling water will decrease several times.
Installation of an iron bathtub on bricks
Design diagram installed bath on bricks
Installing a steel bathtub on bricks is an option for users who prefer durability and reliability of installation. Experts believe that assembling a steel bathtub and installing it on supports will not provide the necessary immobility of the bowl and therefore strongly recommend using this method.
Assembling an iron bowl is extremely simple: each model is equipped with a set of supports, and there is a place for fastening at the bottom of the bowl. The presence of studs and washers guarantees a strong, reliable fastening. If the need arises, a set of adjustable legs can be purchased separately, as well as decorative pads for the supports. This will give the interior additional personality.
Installing a steel bathtub on bricks guarantees the immobility of the bowl, and this is required in order to:
- achieving maximum convenience when using the bowl;
- to avoid cracking of the joints at the junction of the sides and walls.
Advice! Cracks must be eliminated, since when using the bathtub, moisture can settle in them, and dampness contributes to the appearance of fungus, mold and further destruction of the lining.
How to fix a metal bathtub on a brick pad? First, you need to stock up on red brick, in sufficient quantity so that when installing the font, the upper edge of the side is at least 60 cm from the floor level. The required number of racks is selected according to the length of the bath. The distance between the posts must be at least 50 cm!
How to properly install a metal bathtub on bricks:
- Prepare necessary tools And Consumables. If the font has a standard length, you will need approximately 2 supports (2-3 rows high), 20-22 bricks, and for the recess under the bottom there is another half brick along the edge. The height of the support at the rear must exceed the height of the front wall of the support by 20 mm. This is necessary to ensure tilt.
Important! If the font design already has a slope/angle, then the height of the front support can be reduced to 10 mm.
- Fastening a steel bathtub to bricks is done using cement mortar, which must be prepared in advance. To do this, mix 1 part cement powder with 4 parts fine sand. Added required amount water and after laying out the brick support, the structure is left for about 24 hours for better adhesion.
Finished view of a brick structure for a bathtub
Important! Before strengthening the steel bathtub with bricks, it is necessary to arrange a drain. Information on how to do this is above.
- Installation of a metal bath on bricks should be done as carefully and carefully as possible. You need to move the bowl towards the wall panel very carefully, but firmly. Tile adhesive, a metal profile, screws or dowels will help fix the structure.
Advice! If you don't know how to securely install a steel bathtub on supports, use tape sealant.
- After complete sealing, the bathtub bowl must be connected to the sewerage and water supply systems.
Installation of taps and protective decorative screen completes the installation process of the iron bathtub. Now you know how to properly secure a steel bathtub, but if you have questions, the video below will provide answers to possible problems.
Many users have no idea how to lift a steel bathtub. Everything is simple here: the bowl is lightweight, so when standard sizes, with a mass of font House master will cope without any problems.
Finally
There are many possibilities on how to secure an iron bathtub. The instructions included with the hot tub upon sale clearly explain all installation options. But if you don’t have the knowledge, time and energy to do the installation yourself, a professional will tell you how to fix a steel bathtub.
The steel bathtub is relatively light and flexible, so it needs to be installed on solid foundation or use reliable fasteners for fixation that can ensure its stability. Stand legs are included, but they are not enough. If you use only standard supports, the steel bowl wobbles and its bottom bends.
Fastening methods
It is possible to install a steel bathtub securely and stably. For this purpose the following are used:
- brick base;
- polyurethane foam;
- insert into a niche;
- metal corners;
- frame made of metal profile.
In all cases, except for the construction of a brick base, the bathtub is also installed on complete legs.
Installing legs on a bathtub
There are legs different designs. The easiest way to install is paired ones: two supports are connected by a metal concave strip that follows the shape of the bowl. They are attached to the inverted bathtub with one screw, and spacers are installed between the legs and the bowl. The kit may include legs on a self-adhesive base, the installation of which is also easy. It is more difficult to fix metal supports, which are tightened in pairs with pins.
The installation procedure is as follows:
- Plugs are attached to those parts that will be adjacent to the bowl.
- Then, a horseshoe-shaped bracket is inserted into the grooves located on the fold of the main part with the hooks facing up. On the reverse side, press the hooks with pliers.
- The details are provided metal hinges, and on the bathtub body, on the outside there are protrusions. The legs are installed so that the protrusion is in the loop.
- Then a pin is inserted into the special holes and secured on both sides with nuts.
All that remains is to screw the metal pin legs with rubber heels into the holes provided for this purpose.
Polyurethane foam
This is the easiest way to secure a steel bathtub so that it does not swing. The only disadvantage is the high consumption of polyurethane foam:
- The bowl is first placed on its legs, leaving a gap of one centimeter against the wall.
- Connect the drain.
- Fill a bowl with water.
- Fill the space between the bottom and the floor with polyurethane foam, taking into account that the composition gradually expands upon contact with air.
Be sure to leave access to the siphon.
Installation on bricks
For laying a brick base, it is better to use fired material that is resistant to moisture, since there is high humidity in the bathroom.
You will need:
- bricks - approximately 20 pieces per two supports (depending on height);
- cement mortar(for half a bucket of M400 cement, two buckets of sand);
- trowel;
- drill with mixer attachment;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- level.
The side should not be higher than 70 cm, so that you do not have to make a podium with steps. From this calculation the height of the brick base is determined.
Instructions for implementation:
- To make the necessary markings and take measurements, install the bathtub on the legs in the place and position in which it will be after installation on the bricks. At the same time, mark with a line the place where the plumbing fixtures come into contact with the wall, and measure the distance from the bottom to the floor. It is not necessary to set a slope towards the drain, since it was already created when the bowl was cast.
- The bathtub is then removed from the room.
- Considering that the width of the standard model is 70 cm, the length of the base is determined to be 60 cm, since it should not be larger than the bath itself. The masonry will be 2.5 bricks long, based on a standard length of 24 cm.
- If the installation height is 16-17 cm, then two rows of masonry are enough, since the height of the brick is 7 cm, plus take into account the thickness of the mortar and the required gap between the base and the bottom - approximately 1 cm. More brick parts are placed along the edges of the top row, adjusting them to the shape of the bowl.
- Prepare cement mortar by mixing cement with sand and gradually adding water to it. You can replace some of the material with tile adhesive to make the solution more plastic.
- Lay a base consisting of two or three supports and allow the cement to harden for 2 days. Then lay a layer of mortar on the base, repeating the shape of the bowl, but slightly increasing the thickness of the layer in the center. The places adjacent to the wall are also treated with cement.
- Place the metal bath on the base and press it into the wall. Excess cement is immediately removed before the solution sets.
You can also lay columns of bricks around the perimeter, fixing them on edge, and from the outer edge of the bathtub it is advisable to lay out not just pillars, but a screen from bricks. This installation method is used both separately and in combination with foundation masonry.
Using a metal corner
If the bathroom walls are made of durable materials - brick or concrete, you can secure the bathtub with metal corners. They are fixed to the wall using dowels or anchors. The corner can be mounted either on a bare wall or on the cladding.
Required tools and materials:
- drill or hammer drill with drills (for tiles, concrete, metal);
- metal corner;
- fasteners for metal corners - dowels;
- MS polymer sealant;
- silicone sealant;
- degreaser;
- primer;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- level;
- flat spatula;
- notched spatula;
- hammer;
- screwdriver or screwdriver.
Installation procedure on the cladding:
- First, the wall is completely covered and the tile joints are rubbed.
- Then a metal corner is cut to size and holes are prepared in it for self-tapping screws.
- Degrease the base of the tiles, drill holes in the wall using a special drill for tiles and a drill for concrete.
- Treat the MS corner with polymer sealant - the side that will be adjacent to the wall.
- The composition seals the junction so that in the future water does not penetrate under the bathtub.
- Then degrease the base around the entire perimeter installed corner, as well as the lower edge around the perimeter of the bowl. Apply sealant to the corner, remove excess with a notched trowel and install the bath.
- After installation, load it.
- The next day, the water is drained and a seal is made along the upper edge of the bath with silicone sealant.
After installing the bathtub on the corner, all that remains is to connect it to the drain.
Installation on a profile frame
Required materials and tools:
- guide and rack profile for drywall;
- drywall;
- roulette;
- level;
- pencil;
- polyurethane foam;
- metal screws;
- dowels;
- sealant;
- tool for cutting the profile - it is recommended to use metal scissors or a jigsaw.
The order of work on assembling the frame:
- The legs are pre-attached to the bowl.
- Perform markings for installing the profile on the floor. Since the screen should be flush with the edge of the bathtub, the markings are shifted closer to the wall, taking into account the thickness of the drywall and cladding. If the drywall will be tiled, then the thickness of the tile adhesive is also taken into account - 3 mm.
- To install the frame, a guide and rack profile are used. The first is fixed to the floor using dowels. First, it is more convenient to glue the profile with a sealant, and then attach it to the wall and fix it together with metal screws.
- Rack frame elements are made from the rack profile.
- The strip under the side is made from a guide profile. In this case, it is more convenient to secure the rack elements - they will be inserted into the cavity of the upper and lower profiles. But the frame will be more flimsy. A bar made from a rack profile will secure the bathtub more reliably.
- The gaps under the side between the bathtub and the profile are filled with polyurethane foam.
- Further. The structure is sheathed with plasterboard.
To strengthen the frame, the racks and support for the sides are assembled from two profiles, inserting them so that it turns out profile pipe. Metal screws are screwed into the ends, thus fastening the elements to each other. Moreover, they need to be screwed closer to the edge of the end of the profile, which is located inside, otherwise the sides will bend, as a result it will not sew through the profile.
Insert into a niche
To strengthen a bathtub installed on legs, you can additionally cut it into a niche. The insertion is made only along the long side or along one short and long side. For preparatory work You will need a tape measure, a marker, and a level. The groove can be made with a wall chaser, drill, hammer drill, or grinder. They are done manually with a hammer and chisel, but cutting grooves in concrete hand tools will not work.
The work order is as follows:
- First, the bowl is placed on its legs. Make adjustments by selecting comfortable height installation You can do this outside of the bathroom, so you don’t have to take out the plumbing later.
- Measure the distance from the floor to the lower edge of the side and set this distance at the installation site, from the floor, along one or two walls. Draw a line. The length of the groove along a short wall should be equal to the width of the bathtub; it can be done with a small margin for ease of installation.
- Measure the height of the side and set this distance from the first line upward. This minimum width grooves. To make installation more convenient, you can expand the groove upward by 1-2 cm. The depth should be no less than the difference between the length of the bathtub and the distance between the walls if the length of the plumbing fixtures exceeds the width of the room.
- Having made a ditch, they bring in the bath.
- Install it at an angle to the installation site. They put something on one side so that the side that will not be inserted into the groove rises higher, or use the help of a second person.
- The second side is lifted and inserted into the side groove.
- They slide the bathtub into the groove along the long wall.
- Install the legs.
Using this method, you can install a bathtub if it is several centimeters larger than the opening.
Common mistakes
When installing a steel bathtub yourself, it is not always possible to avoid mistakes. They negatively affect the final result, so you need to know in advance what you can do wrong:
- The drain pipe must be below the bottom of the bowl, otherwise draining will be difficult.
- The screen under the bathtub should not be made absolutely straight. For convenience, it is necessary to make a recess at the bottom.
- Failure to comply with the horizontal installation level. This happens due to the haste of the work and inattention. It is much more difficult to level a bowl that is already secured.
- Installation of drain and overflow after installation. It is better to do this before installation.
- Loose nuts. If the nuts that secure the legs are loose, the bathtub will tilt or begin to wobble.
- Lack of sound insulation of the bowl. Not all models need to be soundproofed. But it is still wiser to cover the outside of the bowl with mounting foam or putty, since these materials also perform a heat-saving function.
Thanks to its weight, a steel bathtub can be installed even alone. But light weight is both an advantage and a disadvantage at the same time. In order to securely fasten the structure and not worry about its stability, it is necessary to use standard racks together with additional fasteners and frames.
