Hello. Today I will tell you how to make a table that can accommodate 10-12 people, and at the same time folds easily and takes up very little space in the trunk of a car. After all, its thickness when folded is only 10 cm.
My company and I go “out into nature” very often. Sometimes - with tents for a week. And I thought about a table that I could take with me. Purchased models are usually designed for a company of 4 people, which did not suit us. And so, after some thought, I assembled this table.
I made it for a certain date and “from what was.” For example, I cut out the elements of the tabletop itself from OSB boards 10 mm thick. Therefore, my design turned out to be quite heavy. It is quite possible to make these elements from thin plywood- hardly anyone will dance on this table!))))) But I had OSB (Half a sheet was left after repairing the walls in the barn), so I used it. I made the supporting structures from 50 by 25 bars for the same reason - they were lying around in the barn. And they can be completely, without loss of strength, made from the same plywood, only thicker. The result is a significant reduction in weight...
So where did I start? I started with the tabletop. Having planned the width of the future table to be 80 cm, I cut out two pieces of slab of this length. And the width I got was 62.5 cm. That’s exactly how it “turned out” - because the width of the OSB sheet is 125 cm, and I simply sawed an eighty-centimeter section of it in half.))))
Next, I started making the “legs,” that is, the structure on which the tabletop will be mounted. I assembled two frames from the bars. One is 100 by 62.5 cm in size, the other is slightly narrower. That is, after I assembled the first one, I put two meter-long bars inside it and fastened them with transverse ones of such length that the frames fit tightly into each other. At the same time, I attached the transverse bars in both frames “overlapping” and not along the edge, but so that there was a distance of 80 cm between them. What this gave: firstly, my pieces of the tabletop will be placed there evenly when the table is folded. Secondly, there are “horns” left behind the crossbars. It was originally intended to use the table on uneven ground. And such a leg can, by pressing, be buried in the ground. Having found the center of the long sides of both frames, I drilled holes and fastened them together with M8 bolts.
I ended up with this design:
It turned out that the structure turned out to be shaky, so I strengthened it from lateral wobbling by screwing a rectangular piece of USB /
Next, I started making the supporting strips on which the tabletop will be placed. Since my design has maximum size 100 cm, then the supporting strips should be folded to this length. To do this, I cut two strips of 100 cm each, and two of 90 cm each. I fastened them in pairs with M6 bolts like this:
After that, I laid out both structures and drilled another through hole.
Now, if we lay them out in one line and tighten them with ordinary furniture bolts and a wing nut, we get two strong strips, each 1 m 85 cm long:
Next, I expanded my “leg” to such a width that its height was 75 centimeters (this standard height table). After that, measuring the distance between the upper ends (I pre-drilled holes in them with a diameter of 6 mm). In the spread out and fastened supporting strips, I drilled two holes at the same distance, making sure that they were located at the same distance from the ends. Then I fastened the planks to the stand using the same M6 furniture bolts with wing nuts:
Having placed my tabletop fragments on the edges of the resulting “table skeleton”, I came to the conclusion that between them I could insert another one, 40 cm wide. After which I made it.
Having positioned all the fragments, I marked the attachment points and drilled through holes in the tabletop and guides. Then I bolted the first one...
Then the second...
And finally the last one...
Like this:
All. The table is ready!
In order to fix it in the assembled position, I prepared the following sling in advance:
At its ends there are two loops that can be tightened using rings cut from old jackets.
Since I used a narrow sling (again, there was one))), in the middle, where it would hang on the shoulder, I inserted a piece of a wide car seat belt:
And the table is assembled like this:
First, all the wing nuts are loosened and it is disassembled into components. Then one of the wide parts of the tabletop is placed on the ground:
The folded “leg” is placed on it.
Hiking trips involve recreation that requires availability large quantity specialized items and devices. One of these structures that you cannot do without in nature is a camping table. If you have certain skills, it is quite possible to make it yourself.
Features and types of designs
Varieties of camping tables differ from each other in the list of various characteristics. Their list includes the following:
- cover material;
- design and material of the supporting part;
- functionality;
- size.
The range of modern tourism market offers wide choose modifications of tables for camping. Among the list that makes up the main the lineup, you can find folding, detachable, one-piece, combined and others tables. A folding camp table consists of main parts: tabletop, supporting elements, fastening devices.
The parameters of these components may vary in shape, size and other design characteristics.
The operating principle of the folding mechanism of the camp table is the same for all models. The main rules for its implementation are simplicity of functionality and saving free space. Modifications of detachable tables make it possible to separate their supporting parts from the tabletop. Depending on the design, the parts can be stored together or separately. Models of one-piece camping tables involve partial separation of the supporting part from the tabletop. In this case, the parts that make up the structure are stored together.
A tourist picnic table can be used in different ways. Depending on the need, it can serve for processing various kinds food products. For example, on a camp table you can cut meat, prepare food for further cooking procedures (frying, boiling, drying, and so on). Among other things, you can use such a table as a surface for storing various camping supplies, such as dishes or other kitchen tools.
If the design and size allow, the table can be installed in a tent, which makes it possible to use it for its intended purpose in adverse weather conditions. In order to meet the individual needs of a particular tourist group, you can assemble a homemade camping table.
In order to achieve best result When assembling, it is necessary to take into account the whole range of needs that may arise on a hike or on a picnic.
Materials used
The materials from which it will be made depend on the factors that determine the intended use of the camping table. Before choosing a particular material, the degree of expected load that will be exerted on the product during its operation is calculated.
Boards
It is allowed to use boards as the main material that makes up the surface of the tabletop. For example, you can use boards taken from a loading pallet. However they are not the best option. This is explained technical characteristics plank material, determining the methods of its attachment to the supporting elements.
To attach tabletop boards to the top support legs table, must be used two attachment points on both edges of each individual board. If bolts are used for attachment, then a minimum of 4 bolts will be needed per board, which will lead to an increase in the number Supplies, used during assembly, and increasing the weight of the entire structure.
Chipboard
Chipboard as a countertop has characteristics that meet the criteria greater efficiency. However, its main disadvantage is its susceptibility to structural destruction. Under the influence of moisture or destructive loads exerted on various fastening currents, it quickly collapses, which leads to the emergence of defective factors for the entire structure, a decrease in the period of uninterrupted operation and a decrease in reliability.
Plastic
Plastic is a material that meets practicality criteria to a greater extent than other materials. It is not affected by moisture and, depending on the brand, is resistant to most loads. However, finding a suitable plastic blank is extremely difficult.
Plywood
The most advantageous material for making countertops is plywood sheet. Its structure involves the presence of several wood layers connected to each other by gluing. In this case, the direction of the wood fiber of each layer is located perpendicular to the others, which has a positive effect on the parameters of rigidity and resistance to deformation loads.
The structural characteristics of plywood make it possible to equip reliable fastenings that serve uninterruptedly for a long time. If there is sufficient quantity of this material You can also design a “suitcase” type camping table, which is stored and transported in a closed case. To make the legs, it is recommended to use a square metal pipe with a side size of at least 2.5 cm.
Its profile provides a sufficient level of structural rigidity and makes it resistant to deformation loads.
Required Tools
To make a camping table with your own hands, you need to prepare a set of basic tools with which to carry out the assembly. In the list of the set you can note the following names of tools:
- wood saw or jigsaw;
- welding inverter (if possible);
- electric drill or screwdriver;
- angle grinder;
- circular attachment for angle grinders for grinding;
- hammer;
- square;
- brushes or small roller;
- marking tools (pencil, marker or chalk);
- measuring instruments (tape measure or ruler);
- other related tools.
When making metal support legs, it is advisable to use a metal welding machine. This is due to the fact that the welded joints of individual parts of the structure in this case are the strongest. With absence welding inverter You can use bolted connections. To do this you will need to prepare a certain number of bolts and nuts. The presence or absence of certain types of tools will be determined by the type of design of the future table and the method of its assembly.
Consumables:
- sandpaper;
- drill;
- self-tapping screws;
- bolts;
- electrodes;
- cutting wheels for an angle grinder.
Depending on characteristics specific model table may require additional consumables.
How to make?
Before you start making a homemade camping table, you need to prepare drawings of its design. The drawings should indicate the dimensional parameters of individual parts of the product: table tops, height and width of supporting elements, data on the dimensions of the workpieces used. Fastener locations should also be marked on the drawing.
Support legs
To make the support legs, you need to cut it from a square metal pipe segments that will represent the legs and the jumpers connecting them. Optimal height one pair of legs, taking into account their diagonal arrangement, is 70 cm. The height of the other pair should be 3-5 cm higher, which will compensate for the displacement that occurs when 2 support pairs are crossed.
The width of the upper jumpers connecting the legs is equal to the width of the tabletop, reduced by 20 cm. Reducing the width of the jumper is necessary to free the end edge of the tabletop from the proximity of metal parts and ensure ease of use. The resulting blanks are welded in the shape of the letter “P”. U-shaped pairs must be made in such a way that one of them fits into the inner perimeter of the other with a minimum gap.
Through holes are drilled in the side edges of the legs, piercing both pairs in the same place. Bolts are inserted into these holes, the length of which should allow them to pass through the thickness of the two legs and come out on the other side by at least 1.5 cm. The protruding distance is needed to screw the nut onto it. Washers are placed under the head of the bolt between the walls of the legs in contact with each other and under the nut, which reduces the friction of the workpieces against each other.
It is recommended to use a locknut whose profile does not allow it to be completely screwed onto the bolt. This will help maintain a sufficient gap between the workpieces, allowing them to move freely relative to each other. In this case, a locker is placed under the nut, preventing it from being unscrewed arbitrarily.
If there is no counter-profile nut, you can rivet the edge of the bolt opposite its head. Violation of the integrity of the extreme turns of the thread prevents the screw connection from coming loose. The finished sliding legs are prepared for further installation.
Reading time ≈ 7 minutes
There are things that many of us are deprived of Everyday life, and not of their own free will, but due to the surrounding life, and one of them is outdoor recreation. I want to tell you how to do it folding table for a do-it-yourself picnic, which can be used not only in the forest, but also in the country. Below are drawings and supporting videos to help you with assembly.
Folding table
Where to begin
Of course, you need to start by assembling the tools and materials necessary in this case.
Carpentry tools
Carpentry tool set
First, make sure you have all the carpentry tools needed to assemble your camp table. This is necessary, since all work may stall due to the inability to complete one or another operation. Therefore, you should prepare:
- manual circular saw and/or jigsaw;
- a screwdriver with different attachments (you can use an electric drill);
- a set of drills of different diameters;
- a set of chisels and a hammer;
- belt or disc sander. If it is not available, you can make do sandpaper;
- construction angle with a measuring ruler;
- level (can be short);
- metric tape;
- burner (if necessary);
- a carpenter's pencil and a varnish brush (instead of a brush, some people use a piece of foam rubber).
Note. The selection of a tool may be different in one case or another. Firstly, drawings and design diagrams may differ significantly from each other. Secondly, carpenters have their own preferences - the same operation can be done with different tools.
We select the necessary materials
Moisture-resistant plywood FC
To make a folding table, you can use different material, therefore, the list contains all the blanks from which you have to make a choice:
- block for legs with a cross section of 20×45, 30×40 or 30×45 mm. Length 300-600mm - 4 blanks for legs;
- block 30×40 mm for fasteners and jumpers;
- board from 25×100 to 25×200 mm (for a plank tabletop);
- moisture-resistant or laminated plywood (for plywood countertops);
- PVA glue, dowels;
- wood varnish with stain;
- 2 screws with washers, nuts and lock nuts for moving support units, 2 studs, 6 washers and 8 nuts or 2 bolts, 6 washers and 4 nuts for attaching the legs to the tabletop;
- stainless steel screws for wood.
Assembly work
We will consider one of the assembly options with different tabletops (plank and plywood), and you simply choose for yourself what you consider necessary.
Table top and legs
Preparing the boards
In fact, you don’t even have to use new boards to make a folding countertop. Old, blackened, but trimmed ones are also suitable for this purpose, as long as they are not affected by fungus or shawl. If desired, the tabletop can be made of glued wood, but this is unlikely to be useful for a picnic. The boards should be sanded top and bottom and then cut according required length. After this, process the top edge around the perimeter at an angle of 45⁰, as in the photo above or in the video below.
Video: Plank tabletop
But it is not at all necessary to make a tabletop from boards - it can be cut from plywood 10-12 mm thick, but choose moisture-resistant brands. Be sure to sand the cut panel around the perimeter so that there are no sharp edges. It is also advisable to round the corners, and this already applies to safety instructions.
Drawings of legs
The easiest way to make a folding table with your own hands is to make X-shaped legs that will not only unscrew from the tabletop, but also fold into a straight line underneath it. To do this, first of all, you should polish the bars, grinding off the edges, lay them one on top of the other, find the middle and drill a hole through two blanks at once. The diameter of the hole should match the bolt and nut and locknut you will be using. Place washers under the bolt head and nut, and then tighten the structure so that the legs can move along this axis relative to each other. Make the second pair of legs in the same way.
Assembly of the structure
Elements for assembly
Details for assembling the table:
- tabletop made of plywood or boards;
- block for supporting the legs;
- leg fastening block;
- second support post;
- main support post;
- straps for the bundle;
- rotary axis bolt with washers, nut and locknut;
- nuts;
- rotary axis of the main rack.
Important! First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the drawing given above is designed for a plywood countertop. If it is plank, then between bars No. 2 and No. 3 you need to screw jumpers to stop the boards.
Now you need to decide on the length of the tabletop - it should correspond to the width of the trunk of your car, unless, of course, you plan to use your table only in the kitchen. If its width is set to about 400-450 mm, then the optimal length of each leg will be 310-360 mm, respectively (later you will understand why).
First, on the sides of the tabletop, stepping back from its edge no more than 25-30 mm, attach support No. 2 and main No. 3 bars. For fixation in this case, there are two options: they can be attached with dowels and PVA glue, or with stainless steel screws for wood through the body of the tabletop. At the same time, do not forget to take into account that the thrust bar must be at least 50 mm longer than the main one in each direction.
Now let's figure out how to do it correct connection legs with the main bar. To do this, round off the ends of the main support post No. 5 with a jigsaw and grind the edges so that you don’t get a splinter during use. You round the second support post only on the bottom side, and make a cut at the top with a slope of 45⁰ so that the sharp end of the leg fits into the corner between the thrust block and the table top.
We continue to assemble the folding one and mount the swivel unit between bar No. 3 and post No. 5. As you probably guessed, you need to drill a hole through post No. 5, the diameter of which is equal to the stud, and in bar No. 3, make this hole 2-2.5 mm smaller. Now screw a locknut onto one end of the stud or use a bolt. Put a washer under the head, insert it into the hole in the leg, put the washer on the other side and screw on the nut (preferably with a lock nut) so that the bolt has a slight play in the hole.
Put on the washer and screw bolt No. 9 into the end hole of bar No. 3. But at the same time, it is better to do the final tightening of the bolt or stud into block No. 3 not through the head, but with an open-end wrench, pressing the nut with the lock nut against the block. Perform an identical operation from the other end of the tabletop and screw the strips for tie No. 6 on the sides (almost near the floor). This completes the assembly.
Video: One of the options for a folding table
Finishing
Prefabricated plank tabletop, varnished
Now all that remains is the face processing of the wood and here you can go in different ways, but this will also depend on the material from which the tabletop was made. The simplest option is to cover the lumber with stain, and after it dries, coat it with several layers of varnish. In addition, you can buy varnish with stain - here, too, only two or three layers will be enough. This is suitable for both plywood and solid wood.
Boards after firing
The most advanced way to design such furniture is to age the wood, and the easiest and cheapest way to do this is to fire it, but this is not for plywood, but for solid wood. Here you can use hand torch, which works from gas canister. The flame, burning the fibers, emphasizes the structure of the wood (you can see an example in the top photo). After firing, the boards and bars are opened with colorless varnish, and when it dries and you go on a picnic, you will have appropriate place where to place food and drinks.
Conclusion
In conclusion, I want to say that someone is interested in a folding table-cabinet, which you can make with your own hands at home. But the point is that it's more complex design, besides, such a topic will take a separate article.
The desire to escape into the vastness of nature increasingly overcomes residents of large and small cities. One-day trips to the nearest body of water or multi-day fishing trips to other regions of vast Russia require careful preparation and organization. One of the essential elements of camping life is a table. Wherein the best option will serve as a folding table, occupying as much space as possible less space in the trunk of a car and easy to transport. You can easily make a wonderful version of a camping table with your own hands.
The design is so simple that it can be made by any home craftsman with experience in owning various instruments. The following tools will be needed for work:
- carpentry saw with small tooth for sawing parts;
- sandpaper (sandpaper) of various grain sizes for finishing the edges of parts and the entire product;
- tape measure for measuring the lengths of parts;
- carpenter's square for checking the squareness of the edges of flat parts;
- construction stapler with a supply of staples;
- drill with a drill of a suitable diameter;
- flat screwdriver.
In addition to tools, you need to prepare the following materials:
- a round rod with a diameter of about thirty millimeters and a length of one hundred and sixty centimeters;
- lath of hardwood with a cross section of fifteen by forty-five millimeters - six meters;
- two slats of the same section, each fifty-four centimeters long;
- two pieces of nylon belt twenty-five to thirty millimeters wide, fifty-four centimeters each;
- threaded inserts made of brass, having internal thread ten millimeters;
- four M10x70 bolts.
Let's start the description of the manufacturing technology with the legs of the camping table. The best material They can use two birch cuttings for rakes, which can be easily purchased at any hardware store. Choose straight-line pieces to keep the table looking tidy. Saw off four pieces of forty centimeters each with a hacksaw, sand the ends, and slightly round the lower edges. It would not be a bad idea to sand the surface of the parts.
The next stage of making the table is sawing birch slats into ten pieces of sixty centimeters each. According to preliminary markings using a tape measure and a square with a carpenter's hacksaw, cut the workpieces. To give smoothness, flatness and ends, sand emery cloth. Next, you need to sand two pre-prepared parts, each fifty-four centimeters long.
Then comes the work of manufacturing a flexible tabletop, which is a slatted rolled mat. Its basis is those ten slats of sixty centimeters each. To connect the slats we use nylon straps and construction stapler. Lay out the tabletop elements on a flat surface smooth surface, with the reverse side facing you, aligning their ends.
To maintain straightness, lay planed, even timber along the ends. It is better to calibrate the distance between these parts using small elements with a cross-section of one centimeter. Put the straps on reverse side slats, retreating an equal distance from the ends. Pre-melt the edges of the belts in the flame of a lighter.
Using a stapler, attach the belt to the slats as shown in the attached photos. Watch the distance between the slats.
If the stapler does not finish the staples slightly, use a hammer to fit them more tightly into the material. In this way, attach all the tabletop slats to the belts. Next, we move on to installing the threaded bushings in the legs of the camping table.
To do this, drill blind holes about 40 mm deep from one of the ends with a drill of the required diameter, then carefully screw in the bushings with a screwdriver, trying to maintain their alignment with the hole.
Now, having laid out the tabletop front side down, lay the slats prepared in advance at an equal distance from the ends of the tabletop elements and drill one hole in each slat (as shown below).
The diameter of the holes must be such that the bolts pass through them freely.
The desire to save money pushes quite a lot of people to try to make furniture with their own hands. Such an intention is laudable, but in order to achieve good result, you need to take into account many subtleties and nuances, think everything through carefully. Think about shape and color, material and design.
Shapes and sizes
Oval table It is considered convenient and practical; thanks to the absence of corners and blurred lines, the design looks very elegant. In fact, it combines the best features of round and rectangular variations and allows you to create a comfortable and welcoming environment. While saving space in the room, there is enough space on the surface of the countertop for almost any purpose.
The semicircular shape is appropriate in the most different styles, due to decoration and design, it can be used both in lush baroque and in discreet high-tech. You will not be limited in the choice of materials. They are traditional and the most modern:
- A small square table is good precisely because of its classical expressiveness; it is often equipped with a transforming mechanism.
- A small folding table is suitable for summer cottages ( country houses), which are visited only in certain seasons; if necessary, picking them up and taking them back is not difficult.
- However, if you want, you can do it right away big table, to seat the whole family and guests in addition.
Take into account when choosing sizes and clean practical considerations. For 1-3 people there is simply no point in making large structures, but for those who like to gather large groups the situation is completely different.
note that furniture should not seem overly bulky or get lost in the middle of the room. Typically, each seated person is allocated 60 cm in width and 40 cm in depth, additionally reserving part of the tabletop for a salad bowl and shared dishes. It will be very inconvenient for four adults if the diameter of the circle is less than one meter; for six people a minimum of 1.3 m will be required, and for 8 - at least 1.5 m.
Materials
Wooden countertops are a win-win classic solution, characterized by long service life, practical to use and very elegant. Its serious disadvantage is its high cost, as well as its stylistic inappropriateness in small rooms. If there is not enough space, it is better to make a folding table from laminated chipboard with your own hands. This design is ideal for kitchens also because it tolerates moisture and is easy to clean.
Whole wooden table it is rarely found even where it is permissible to use it for design reasons. After all, metal legs are preferable to oak, pine or birch legs due to their increased strength and stability. Profile pipe well suited for creating legs and stands; wheels can be installed at the bottom if you want to make the table mobile.
Plywood can also be used in the clamshell design. An excellent replacement for metal and wood in the manufacture of individual parts of furniture can be polypropylene pipes. Although they are not highly durable, they allow you to create original look decorative elements. Important: if you do not know how to do diffuse welding or carving plastic, you can use the gluing method. The material, unlike PVC, is not toxic; it can be used even in children's rooms.
How to do it?
Each type of folding table uses its own method.
Transformer
When preparing a transforming table, it is always necessary to select transformer mechanisms. They can be made with springs or using gas lift, both solutions help to unfold and fold furniture as gently as possible. Inexperienced people should prefer spring version, it is simple and reliable to use, and the springs will not damage appearance designs.
The calculation of the product is quite simple, especially if you use computer programs. Having chosen laminated chipboard, order cutting to professionals or make a detailed cutting map yourself. Never deviate from the manufacturer's recommended countertop thickness. When the starting material is received, fold all the blocks to check the accuracy of the intended dimensions.
When marking dark laminated chipboard, use stickers. Pencil and marker marks will be completely invisible.
To assemble the table frame, confirmats and a special drill are used. When the base is ready, insert the springs, then the mechanism. If it is heavy enough, the parts often have to be connected through a through method. Having correctly calculated all the nuances, you don’t have to worry that coffee table It will turn out to be crooked, fragile, ugly.
Table-bench
Making a wall table, as well as a version attached to a window sill, is not difficult. The tabletop should not be thinner than 20 and thicker than 30 mm, then it will be both durable and not too heavy. You can make any width as long as it is in harmony with the desired height. As for the length, when calculating it, take into account functional features, upcoming placement and ease of use. The legs must be strong enough to support both the mass of the main structure and the dishes and dishes on display. In particularly difficult cases, the legs are fastened with mutual ties.
In order not to make a mistake with the place where the legs are screwed to the floor, you can do it simply - drill where you place it.
A folding table placed above a radiator (battery) must have a certain number of holes, otherwise the heating of the room will deteriorate. Attention: when mounted above heating and heating devices, chipboard is not suitable at all. Better to use natural massif, MDF board or plywood. Triangular supports should be used only for short and medium-sized tables; they are also unacceptable when located above radiators. Direct mounting to the wall would be much more appropriate. Don’t forget to attach the workpiece to the mounting location to once again clarify all the parameters and eliminate errors.
Table-bed
This solution is in great demand, but it is necessary to prepare space in the wall for displaying furniture - best of all, shelving and cabinets. Think about what the dimensions should be, be sure to draw up drawings to avoid mistakes. Making a table-sofa involves preparing the box, bed and lifting mechanism. The box is separate design or included in the product depending on the manufacturer's intentions. It is attached to the wall.
Attention: tables that transform into beds are best assembled made of particle boards, furniture panels are unsuitable for them. The boxes are made from 5x5 cm bars; for the outer framing of the frames, supports with a height of 14 cm are used. The side decorating structures are made from an inch board with a layer of wood 1.2-1.5 cm, and to form the legs, a piece 4 cm deep is used. It is not difficult to lighten it; to do this, you only need to cut out the core of the supports.
To make the finished structure stronger, screw in the screws that occupy the legs from top to bottom.
Piano or bar hinges are required to create bases that retract when the bed is folded; A slight slope of the lower and higher ends of the legs will help make the furniture more reliable. Professionals recommend do not make the mechanism yourself, but purchase a ready-made one, with a pipe for a domestic gas pipeline at the base: it can open and close several thousand times, guaranteed. And at the same time, the sofa will definitely be positioned as needed. The table is held together with the bed by auxiliary rods that can be easily pulled out as needed.
Swing-out
Making your own swivel-folding table is no more difficult than the options described above. Even special fasteners for rotation (for example, swivel mechanism for mounting a TV), if the furniture will be used occasionally, you don’t have to use it. But you will definitely need it laminated chipboard, optimal thickness layer - 2.5 cm. The folding tabletop should be 77x50 cm.
The false tabletop is made 40x67 cm in size, the legs and bindings for them are also prepared, corners and confirmations are taken. The tabletop is secured with card loops and 4 to 6 wooden dowels are used. The false tabletop is placed on top, its corners are usually held in place by confirmata, although furniture corners can also be used. A mechanism is placed in the center of the turn or a blind hole is drilled into which a steel dowel is inserted halfway.
If desired, you can use dowels to tie the false table top to the bottom of the rotating part.
About how to do Rotary table with your own hands, watch the next video.
Table-book
The advantages of this format are the following:
- Minimum footprint;
- Easy to move;
- The ability to easily convert the structure into a full-size table.
It will take only a few hours to create the product; The table top is made up of three parts. The center is always stable, and the sides can be lowered or raised. Otherwise, you can diversify the design of the table at your discretion: you can use wheeled legs, make solid or framed sides. If you wish, it is not difficult to make the middle of the tabletop longer by placing a minibar inside or a cavity for folding chairs. There are also versions of book tables without a middle fragment at all; they are especially compact.
Beginning craftsmen should make exactly the design, not equipped with anything additional. It's easier to make rectangular wings at home, but if you can have them done by a professional, rounded options are also available. It is possible to manufacture all parts from particle boards. Another scheme involves the creation of legs and side posts from rolled steel profiles with lower mounting of the wheels. According to professionals, it is necessary to abandon piano hinges in favor of “butterflies” as they are more resistant to heavy loads. When the workpieces are cut, all parts should be edged. At the edges of worktops, the flat edge can be replaced with edge profiles.
