Caring for roses in autumn, preparing for winter. Park rose Alexander McKenzie rose Alexander Mc Kenzie. Park rose Louise Odier Louise Odier Rose

Park rose - amazing plant, combining the resilience of wild species and aristocratic beauty. Its cultivation can be done by amateurs; the rules for planting and subsequent care are simple. The plant is easy to propagate. And after reading our article and looking at the photos, you will definitely want to have at least one of these varieties of roses in your collection.

Varieties and varieties of park roses

The group of roses, conventionally called park roses, includes decorative types rose hips and ancient roses: centifolia (bred back in the 16th century) and moss rose (appeared more than 3 centuries ago).

Park roses in landscape design

The bushes of these roses are tall - on average up to one and a half meters. They are distinguished by early abundant flowering, lasting more than a month. With rare exceptions, they do not bloom again. The typical color of flowers is from white to deep purple, more rare - yellow, orange. The photo shows that no other roses are as full as park roses; sometimes you can count up to 150 fragrant petals on one flower.

They are winter-hardy and tolerate cold without shelter. Obtained through the labor of breeders unique varieties, where to all existing positive qualities, new ones have been added, such as the ability to re-bloom. The most common domestic varieties found in gardens are:

Not long ago, gardeners began to cultivate park roses, native to England and Canada. The first are represented by varieties:

In the photo there are popular Canadian varieties:

Variety John Davis

Planting and caring for park roses

Park roses are planted both as hedges, singly and in groups. It is better when the area is well lit, but partial shade is also acceptable, there will simply be fewer flowers there. The ideal soil is moderately acidic. Compost, peat or humus is added to sand, and sand, the same peat, compost, humus are added to clay. Park roses are planted from May to September.

Holes are dug under the seedlings so that the roots can be freely straightened and the neck can be deepened by 8 centimeters. Plants are planted from each other at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m.

Attention! Bushes do not develop well in a draft, so choose a sheltered area.

The roots and shoots of park roses take 3 years to form. During this period, the soil should be loosened, watered, fertilized, and pruned. In spring and summer, the need for water increases, because... Plants spend a lot of energy developing and flowering. At the beginning of September, watering is stopped.

Young park rose bush

Very important point is circumcision. It is carried out 2 years after planting in April, and before that only damaged branches are removed. Shoots of some species should be shortened by half, leaving approximately 6 buds. By pruning you can rejuvenate the bush. To do this, the shoots are cut off close to the ground, then the young stems will begin to actively grow.

Advice. Since park roses have very sharp thorns, when handling them, use a canvas apron and thick gloves.

Fertilizer and fertilizing for better development

In spring, roses need magnesium, iron, and boron. They contain specially selected rose fertilizers. The plants are also fertilized with manure at this time. Then the park roses begin to be fed at the end of August to strengthen the roots. Fertilizers are applied to the bushes high content potassium, phosphorus and calcium. The second feeding occurs in September. Add a bucket of water under the bushes with potassium monophosphate (16 g) and superphosphate (15 g) dissolved in it. The last feeding is done in October, adding organic matter in the form of rotted compost.

Roses need to be fed with special fertilizers

How do park roses reproduce?

Reproduction is practiced:

By layering, when the stems are bent towards the ground in the spring and, having secured, they are sprinkled with earth. The following year they are separated and assigned to a permanent place.
Overgrowth, for which the offspring at the age of 1 year are separated from the main bush in the spring, and then, having shortened the stems by a third, they are replanted.
By division overgrown bushes in early spring or autumn. This is done using pruning shears. Each division must have roots and at least 1 stem. The separated part is planted in compliance with the usual planting rules.
Woody or green cuttings. The first ones are harvested in the fall, buried in the sand, and planted in the spring. The second - at the beginning of flowering.

Park rose cuttings

What are the diseases of park roses? Pests

Park roses are prone to diseases such as spheroteca or powdery mildew. It is very dangerous for plants, because... often leads to death. It is expressed in the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves below. To prevent its appearance, the bushes are sprayed with iron sulfate before the growing season, and in the summer with a solution consisting of 0.5 buckets of water, 0.3 kg of sulfur, quicklime (1 kg), kitchen salt (0.2 kg).

Powdery mildew

Garden beetle and raspberry weevil are the main enemies of park roses. They lay larvae in the buds, which eat them. The beetles themselves eat everything from the buds to the leaves and flowers. Therefore, beetles should be collected at the first appearance and destroyed.

By choosing a well-lit place in your garden with breathable soil, and providing proper care, you can grow beautiful park roses.

Planting a park rose: video

Park rose: photo

Every rose, but especially the park rose, can perfectly decorate any garden. Thanks to their unpretentiousness, frost resistance and long flowering, these rose bushes can be used in any conditions. They are also convenient for decoding arched openings, gazebos, facades. The rose will look good in the background of the flower bed.

Decorative rose hips are usually classified as varieties of park roses. They begin to bloom extremely actively and earlier than other species, emitting a slight sweetish smell.

In Russia it is customary to use the following pink varieties:

The rose is wrinkled. A large plant, reaching a height of two meters. It got its name due to its wrinkled foliage. The flowers, 10 cm in size, have a strong scent. Roses bloom for a long time, with the greatest activity occurring at the beginning of summer.

The rose is white. It has spreading bushes that grow no less than two meters in height. Fragrant six-centimeter flowers begin to bloom in mid-summer.

The rose is prickly. It can be grown from seeds even in climates difficult for plant development. This variety received its name due to the thorns covering the shoots. Already in the first days of May, wide rose bushes, reaching a height of two meters, begin to be covered with small flowers with a pleasant aroma.

French rose. Cultivation has been going on for more than a century. This variety tolerates cold weather. The bush usually grows up to one and a half meters in height. Abundant flowering begins in the first month of summer. The flowers are usually large in size and have a pleasant light aroma, color palette diverse.

Also in gardens you can now find English and Canadian rose varieties. These plants are beautiful and have large flowers. They withstand unfavorable environmental conditions and are not susceptible to the harmful effects of most pathogenic microorganisms on roses.

Canadian park roses

Canadian varieties park roses were bred specifically for cool climates. They take root well in the regions of central Russia, while in the southern regions they get hot and may lack water. These roses can withstand cold temperatures down to -35 degrees.

John Davis. Has pinkish flowers classic shape having a sweetish aroma. In size, the bush usually reaches two and a half meters in height, and no more than two in width. Roses bloom throughout the summer before the onset of cold weather.

John Franklin. A neatly shaped rose bush, reaching about 100 cm in width and about 120 cm in height. Double reddish flowers have fringed petals and in appearance they look more like carnations. There is a light pleasant aroma. This variety blooms in small inflorescences or individual flowers throughout the summer.

Morden Sunrise. Frost-resistant variety, distinguished by orange with pink. Their flowers are about 8 cm in diameter. The bush can grow up to 1 meter in height and 70 cm in width, and is also highly resistant to many diseases.

English park roses

The English park varieties roses have flowers of a special shape, which reach 12 cm in size, they also have beautiful formation bush and minimum requirements to care. Usually this is a spreading plant, which is covered with heavy double flowers with a pleasant smell.

Abraham Derby. It was bred by breeders in 1985. The flowers are large in size, have a classic cup shape, and have a light fruity scent. Apricot color, pink edging. The coloring feature is more pronounced in cold weather. At the end of the shoots there are usually from 1 to 3 peduncles. This variety is characterized by fast growth, high disease resistance and two waves of flowering.

Benjamin Britten. A variety of roses bred only in 2001. The rose bushes are strong, however Not large sizes(reach no more than one meter in height), bloom profusely. The flowers are large in size and deep, cup-shaped, and have a fruity aroma with characteristic notes of wine. The color is intensely bright, reddish with an orange tint. The variety has high resistance to diseases, is undemanding to environmental conditions, except that it does not like rain.

William Shakespeare 2000. It was specially bred as a replacement for rose bushes of the William Shakespeare variety. It has become even more resistant to harmful influences environment, many diseases and insect pests. Bright red, densely double flowers emit a pleasant aroma. Several flowers bloom on each shoot at once, lasting for about 14 days. At the beginning of flowering they have a deep bowl shape, but later become flatter.

Selecting a site for planting

Before you start planting a plant, you should decide on a location. For this crop, a well-lit area with sunshine, which will be well ventilated on each side, is more suitable. However, you can place the future bush in partial shade - this is not critical. When planting roses, you need to take into account the composition of the soil.

The following soil is suitable for park varieties:

containing many nutrients;
loose in structure;
easy;
characterized by a high presence of humus in the composition with a general acidity of pH 6-7.

Loam best matches these characteristics. If the plant is planted in sandy soil, then it will be necessary to add fertilizers appropriate to its composition.

Planting park roses

After selection suitable soil you should proceed to planting roses. In this case, you will need to decide on a planting scheme and prepare holes for planting.

Well preparation

The hole dug for the future bush should be deep, 5-10 cm larger than the root system, to allow all the roots to straighten out freely there. After all, it is categorically not recommended to allow the root system to bend or bend, since this will primarily affect the condition and health of the plant.

Planting schemes

Creating a beautifully decorated flower bed with roses yourself will not be difficult. a lot of work, if the basic rules of composition and the principles of combining different pink varieties.

As an element of such a composition, the rose is an extremely versatile plant - it can act as a key element, or it can become a harmonious addition to other flower plants.

First you need to decide on the type of flower garden:

A flowering border is considered an elementary form. To create such a flower bed, you need to plant park roses along the paths, while combining them with tea or other varieties of flowers. Most often, plants are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
Bright border Mixborder is a mixed type of flower garden, in which there are different types of flowers. Before you start planting roses in a flowerbed, you will need to select neighboring plants so that they bloom in different time. Large bushes are placed in the background of the composition, medium-sized, spectacularly blooming ones are in the center, small ones are in front.

Caring for park roses

When growing park roses, you should understand that they require special care. Only in this case will they grow up beautiful and resistant to various diseases.

Watering, loosening and mulching

Starting in spring, planted plants require watering every two days if the weather is dry or the soil does not retain water well, otherwise weekly watering will be sufficient.

Rose bushes especially need water during growth, bud formation and the flowering period. If there is a shortage of it, the shoots stop growing and begin to fade, the flowers become smaller, and the foliage falls off.

Ten liters will be enough for one bush. Special attention should be given watering in summer. In the fall, it should be reduced and then stopped altogether. Water carefully and only at the root, otherwise the rose may be damaged. various diseases.

The next day after watering the plant, you should proceed to loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm to improve its water permeability and provide the root system with air, as well as remove weeds. To prevent possible root damage in this situation, this procedure must be carried out with caution.

Then you should move on to mulching, which will require covering the soil around the rose with a five-centimeter layer of loose organic material. This will prevent the evaporation of moisture and retain more of it in the ground during drought, reduce the number of weeds growing near it, and protect the bushes from overheating and drying out in hot and windy weather.

Typically, mulch is chopped straw and tree bark, leaf humus, and compost, which can not only improve the soil structure, but also provide the bush with additional nutrients.

As a rule, mulching begins in late April - May, but it can also be done in the fall, before the soil has completely cooled down. Before you begin this procedure, you need to weed the soil. After turning the mulch into humus, it is mixed with the soil during the loosening process and soon mulching needs to be done again.

Fertilizers for growing park roses

Roses react extremely positively to fertilizers. You can feed them either liquid or dry, or foliar. The last type of fertilizing is very effective, since in a short time after the composition is applied to the foliage, its components will end up in the cell sap of the plant. This helps to increase the number and size of flowers and improve the condition of the rose bush.

During the first time after planting in the soil, if it has been sufficiently fertilized in advance, fertilizing is not required. After the buds are removed, it is better to feed the plant with liquid organic fertilizers.

In subsequent years, it is necessary to regularly feed roses. During the season, it is necessary to perform about seven fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizer compositions that complement each other. The bush feeds on minerals, but organic fertilizer, giving in to slow decomposition, helps to assimilate them.

Nitrogen has a beneficial effect on the growth of foliage and stems, the green mass of the plant, phosphorus promotes the growth of the root system and shoots, reduces the time before flowering, potassium helps to form high-quality flowers, and also increases resistance to droughts and diseases. For this reason, rose bushes need complex feeding.

Approximate fertilizer rate per 1 square meter: ammonium nitrate - 20 g, superphosphate - 30 g, potassium salt - 10 g.

Pruning and shaping a park rose bush

Pruning is considered a basic requirement for active growth and flowering rose bushes. It is required to be carried out every year. This leads to the plant getting rid of old branches, new stems are formed faster, and leaves appear, ensuring excellent growth and flowering.

Pruning can be in spring, summer and autumn, that is, it can vary in time, and strong, medium, weak - in intensity. In this case, in the first case, the stem is removed at the level of three, in the second - five and in the third - ten buds.

Also, in order to obtain developed rose bushes, young seedlings need to be shaped, which requires pinching the stems when the fourth leaf appears. During the first time after planting, it is necessary to remove all the buds when they reach the size of a pea.

Pinching allows new stems to appear and develop, which contributes to the formation of a bush with several symmetrical shoots.

At the end of summer, you can complete the shaping process, giving the rose the opportunity to bloom. If the branches and buds are not pinched, then upon completion of flowering the plant will stop growing until autumn and will be poorly formed and developed, and this will lead to a decrease in frost resistance.

How do park roses reproduce?

Reproduction of park roses is carried out using the following methods:

layering - in the spring, the stems bend to the ground and are fixed there, after which they are sprinkled with soil. Next year they will be separated from mother plant;
shoots - offspring, which are about a year old, need to be separated from the bush in the spring, after which the stem is shortened by a third and replanted;
dividing bushes - carried out using garden shears in the first spring or autumn month of the year (each separated part of the bush must have roots and at least one stem);
lignified or green cuttings - the first should be prepared in the fall, buried in the sand, and planted in the spring, the second - during the flowering period.

Sheltering park roses for the winter

Before covering the park roses, you will need to bend their stems.

The roses bend down gradually so that the trunks do not break. For the operation to be successful, you need to dig up the roots a little from one side and then tilt the rose. The only way to prevent it from returning to a vertical state is by fixing the stem with staples or tying the branches, pressing them down with any materials.

If, during the process of bending down park roses, the root comes off a little from the soil, this will not harm the plant - it will recover in the spring.

Prevention from diseases and pests

This plant is often affected by diseases such as spheroteca and powdery mildew. They are dangerous because they can cause the death of rose bushes.

As a preventive measure, before the start of the growing season, park roses should be sprayed with a solution based on iron sulfate. Used during flowering modern drugs.

The most dangerous insect pests that have a detrimental effect on roses are the garden beetle and raspberry weevil, leaf rollers and spider mites. Pests, or rather their larvae, mostly damage the buds. Adult insects mainly affect buds, leaves and flowers.

To avoid the appearance of pests, you will have to resort to the following measures:

water only the trunk, being careful not to wet the soil and root system;
you need to feed the bushes on time;
The soil should be loosened regularly;
remove weeds.

If insect pests appear, then the rose is sprayed with products belonging to the category of avermectin preparations. They are Actofite, Fitoverm and Vermitek. These products get rid of adults and larvae.

The most common diseases found in park rose bushes are:

Powdery mildew - appears on a plant that is in open ground, and in the greenhouse. It affects rose bushes in July-August, quickly spreading to plants growing nearby (the speed of spread of the disease increases in cool, rainy weather). A whitish coating appears on the leaves, stems and buds, which later turns brown. The leaves begin to curl and fall, the buds dry out, and the rose withers. Powdery mildew affects types and varieties of rose bushes in different ways. Damage to plants that have thick and leathery leaves occurs less often than those whose leaves are thinner and more tender.
Black spot leaves - damages leaves usually in August.
Rust - This disease is caused by a fungus that attacks foliage and bark. The disease has a particularly strong effect on park roses.
Star rust - appears on almost all types and varieties of roses. It often affects the plant as early as June - August. Blackish round spots appear along the edges of the foliage, sometimes on the stems. If the disease progresses, then the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. The bushes weaken and next year the rose hardly germinates.
Pink rust - small orange pads appear on the foliage and shoots of infected plants. The spread of the disease occurs due to fungal spores. Defeat different types and varieties vary widely: red-leaved and remontant rose bushes are less resistant, while tea and polyanthus roses are most resistant.

Among the pests are:

The brushtail resembles a fly; the back of the insect is yellowish in color. In summer, the insect damages the tops of young shoots and lays eggs, from which greenish larvae hatch, feeding on leaves.
The rose borer lays eggs on the tips of young rose stems in late spring.
Aphids - colonies of insects settle on all parts of the plant. Pests feed on sap sucked from tissues, which causes plants to weaken and leaves and shoots to curl. Aphids reproduce quickly, open ground several generations grow up.
Leafrollers are small butterflies. In early summer, eggs are laid on the tips of young stems. The caterpillars damage the foliage and young buds, entangle them in cobwebs and roll them up into a tube. Insects unite the edges of the leaves.
The roseate cicada is a small flying pest. In autumn, eggs are laid at the ends of the stems. In the spring, larvae emerge from them.
Spider mite harms rose bushes in hot and dry weather. It settles on the leaves from below, feeding on the juice and pulp of the leaves, entangling them with cobwebs. Yellowing, drying out and shedding of foliage occurs.
Click beetle - the larvae eat the roots and stems of rose bushes. This insect loves moisture. In the spring they begin to gather in top layer soil, and when the soil dries out, they sink deeper.

Finally, it should be noted that when proper care taking care of the plant and carrying out timely preventive measures will help avoid the appearance of pests and diseases. Follow the recommendations and your rose bushes will grow strong and beautiful.

Park roses love landing in a well-lit area, but partial shade is also possible. In partial shade, their flowering will not be as abundant. The best location for park roses is the south side. There the plant is darkened part of the day, which is important in the heat, because it protects against drying out and burns.

However, if you have such a plot occupied, do not worry, a park rose bush can be planted everywhere except in the north (there the stems stretch out because they see little sun (shade predominates), they hardly bloom, and are more likely to be damaged by diseases and insects). The soil should be slightly or moderately acidic (acidity from pH 5.5 -6.5). If you have sandy or heavy soil, it needs to be compacted with peat, compost, humus, soil in the first case, in the second - loosened with sand, peat, humus, compost. It is undesirable to place the bush near trees (their roots draw a lot of moisture from the soil and useful substances), as well as under the crowns of trees (this way you will artificially create a shadow), and there should be no drafts on the site, i.e. the area should be well ventilated, but not too much, because the bush will develop poorly.

Bushes of park varieties have a closed root system, so the time for planting roses may vary, from May to September. 1-2 year old (young) bushes take root well in conditions. It should be noted that planted in the fall, before the first frost arrives (until mid-October), park rose bushes will have time to take root, and therefore will develop better and outpace those plants of this class that were planted in the spring. Pruning is carried out in the spring, so do not rush to shorten the seedlings in the fall. The soil should be prepared in advance in order to be in time before frost. The distance between seedlings should be 1 x 1.5 m or 1 - 1.5 m. The hole should be large enough so that the roots lie easily (do not bend upward), and the grafting site (root collar) is 5-10 cm under the soil . It is recommended to add humus and peat inside. After this, we fill the hole and compact it, making a mound that unfolds in April.

Park roses care

Park roses form a root system and strong branches within three years, so care consists of loosening the soil, fertilizing, pruning, and watering. Roses require a lot of water during development (spring) and during the growing season, that is, ripening and flowering (summer). During drought, water the plant more often (2-3 times a week). Liquid but abundant watering is better than frequent but small watering. During the sunny season, do not saturate with water, and also do not sprinkle (sprinkle) so that there are no burns and spread powdery mildew and other diseases. This process is carried out in the morning or evening, water is poured in a stream to the base. Watering the flowers should be stopped at the end of summer (August) so that the shoots become woody and are not afraid of frost. However, when autumn is dry and there is not enough rainfall, still be sure to water the bushes moderately so that the roots receive moisture. Due to lack of water, the plant may die.

Fertilizer is carried out 4-5 times, after which it is advisable to water the plant. The first - in the spring (nitrogen), the second - during leaf blossoming (ammonium nitrate), the third - budding (phosphorus), the fourth - flowering (calcium, phosphorus), the fifth - in the fall (potassium). For the first two years, you don’t have to apply fertilizer if you put manure or humus in the hole when planting, because that’s how long it takes to decompose.

The most important thing in the formation of bushes is pruning. It regulates the shape and number of shoots. It is absent for the first two years, but then it should be carried out. The bush of park roses has the shape of a bowl, with 5-9 strong shoots, shortened slightly by a strong surface bud, keeping the shoots along the entire length (in single cases - dried tips or 2-3 underdeveloped buds), but their number differs from the strength of the bush. It is enough to leave 2-3 year old skeletal branches. Broken, small, thin, diseased and frozen branches, as well as those growing inside the branches, are cut to living wood. The vegetation of park roses (the appearance of buds, growth) occurs very early, the flowers must be pruned in mid-April, to do this, remove last year's fruits and shoots that have not overwintered. Use well-sharpened scissors, pruning shears, and dry, woody stems with a saw, because they are very thick and hard. Cover the cut area oil paint or garden varnish. Don't forget, the arched branches are completely covered with thorns, which are extremely prickly and to avoid injury, wear thick, leather gloves. On once-blooming park roses, the shoots end in flowers, which fade and bear fruit in the fall, while the wood ripens until frost. Consequently, the more shoots, the richer the blooms, because flowers are formed on last year’s stems. In remontant park roses, the flowers grow as they grow, so flowers and fruit appear at the same time. The bush ages over time (in 4-5 years), grows strongly and does not have such attractiveness. To restore the previous decorative beauty, it is necessary to perform circumcision for rejuvenation. To do this, in the fall, the stems of park roses are cut to the ground, and non-flowering branches are removed to encourage lush growth. Proper pruning it is possible to achieve the formation of good shoots, abundant flowering and the magical shape of the crown.

Park rose quite winter-hardy, only some species need to be easily covered for the winter. We pile up soil on the base, and wrap the branches in 2 layers of craft paper, which protects them from the sun during the thaw and from sudden temperature changes. The bush has a unique recovery property; even if the above-ground part has not survived the frost, it will grow back from the base. But it will not bloom the first year, because flower buds are formed on 2-3 annual shoots and only in some of them they are formed on the stems of the current year.

The park rose is propagated by dividing the bush, layering and green cuttings.

About, How How to properly cover roses for the winter Let's talk in our article. After all, a capricious and majestic rose is a decoration for any garden. At the same time, she demands special care. There are species that tolerate any winter well, and there are those sissies that require certain conditions. Let's get acquainted with the features of the shelter and the best designs For tea-hybrid, climbing, standard, bush and park roses.

Wonderful flowers come from Ancient Rome, where there is no temperature below 3 degrees. And since it is much colder in most of Russia, experts have come up with a way to cover roses for the winter.

Do I need to cover roses for the winter??

The answer to this question depends on the variety of roses and the weather conditions of a particular region. Age, plant condition and shelter option do not greatly affect how plants tolerate cold temperatures. When purchasing a particular type of flower, you can clarify whether they should be covered. If the climate is warm and the winter is mild, then some even non-winter-hardy varieties can tolerate it without shelter.

The most winter-hardy species are:

park varieties (Ritausma, Pink Grotendorst, Conrad Ferdinand Meyer, Hansa, Lavinia, Adelaide Hutles);
species or rose hips (Nitida, Glauka, Wrinkled);
winter-hardy varieties (Scabrosa, John Davis, Snow Pavement, Jens Munch, Hansa);
some hybrid species (Alba, Spinosissima, Rugosa).

Experts advise covering all other species.

When to cover?

Shrub roses can be covered at the end of October. If you do this earlier, when it is still warm, the temperature in the shelter may rise, causing roots and shoots to begin to develop. Considering that soil moisture rises, moisture accumulates, the roots can rot. Therefore, when the temperature drops to -5 degrees for more than 7 days, you can cover the roses for the winter.

Flowers tolerate the first frosts well down to – 7 degrees. It is recommended to start covering the bushes in this weather. Roses enter a dormant state, the stems and roots harden.

But it all depends on weather conditions, the onset of cold weather and the climate of the region.

In outskirts of Moscow roses are covered approximately at the end of October. The period may vary, the main thing is that during the week the temperature varies between +5-7.
In the Urals, in Siberia Roses are covered in September because the temperature drops earlier. It is recommended to cover with several layers, because winters in the Urals are harsh and the plant needs additional protection.

Advice from experienced flower growers! The main condition for a good wintering of roses can be safely called dry shelter. Do not cover wet bushes or use wet foliage, dig in with damp soil or covering material. Due to humidity, rot may appear, pests may appear and the roses will get sick.

Step by step guide

First stage: preparation

Before winter, it is necessary to take protective measures for roses.

During flowering, the plant is depleted, nutrient reserves from the soil are consumed. Therefore, special fertilizers must be applied in the fall so that the plant does not gain green mass, but prepares for frost.

For 10 liters of water you need to take 16 g of potassium monophosphate, 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g boric acid. Apply 4-5 liters of the resulting fertilizer to each bush.
The popular method of feeding is banana peels or wood ash(for 1 sq. m. you need 3 liters of jar). This composition contains a sufficient amount of potassium and calcium.
Complex fertilizer “Autumn”, which was created specifically to prepare the roots of roses for winter.
The bushes are also treated with fungicides, Fitosporin-M or a 5% solution of copper sulfate.

Before covering roses, they must be completely ripe. Approximately 3-4 weeks before covering, you need to stop cutting flowers for bouquets. This rule applies to young roses that were cut for the first time this year. They must bloom, thereby naturally ending the growing season.

Advice! After pruning, roses must be treated with a disinfectant. The bushes are hilled to a height of 30 cm. After this, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter.

Different varieties of roses have different period falling leaves. But be sure to pick or cut off all the leaves. This will put the plant into a dormant state and reduce the risk of infection.
To disinfect the above-ground parts of the bushes, it is necessary to treat them with a solution of iron sulfate or a fungicide before covering them. The ground under the bushes should be cleared of debris and weeds.

Watch the video! How to properly cover roses for the winter

Second stage: trimming or bending

Park and climbing varieties of roses do not need to be pruned. Some bush varieties And climbing species that are sensitive to cold must be gradually, 3-4 weeks before sheltering, placed on supports that go lower and lower, so as not to damage or break the woody stems. This must be done gradually and carefully.

Park roses– bend or cut?

Here opinions are divided. Some people leave roses for the winter without pruning so that they can withstand it better. Such a plant will wake up earlier in the spring and it is unlikely that new shoots will be released. But there is back side this medal: the smaller the above-ground part of the bush, the better it will withstand frost. In addition, leaving the top parts of the stems increases the risk of bacteria development. Therefore, it is still recommended to do pruning.

On the presented photo four stages of insulation of stamped roses are visible. The roots are dug up if the trunks bend poorly. The leaf part is covered with spruce branches or dry leaves, and the top is covered with lutrasil.

How to bend bushes correctly roses?

Dense and inflexible stems are bent in several stages, as mentioned above. You can use old construction pins or rods. This material bends easily, goes into the ground well and can last for more than one year.
In order for the bush to become mobile and bend over without damaging the plant, you should carefully dig up with a pitchfork two or three times. At the same time, do not dig it up too much.
If the bush has been grafted, it should bend towards the graft. This is done so as not to break the stem from heavy load.

Stamped And climbing roses are removed from the supports and laid on the ground.

Watch the video! Pruning and covering roses for the winter

Third stage: covering

How and what to properly cover roses for the winter? There are two types of cover: air-dry or wrap.

It is necessary to dig in this way: the prepared bushes are covered with soil to a height of 20-40 cm of the stems. The upper shoots are completely covered with dry leaves. Or roses are completely buried in the ground;
The air type of shelter is the insulation of the roots with leaves or spruce branches, and the above-ground part with a structure made of any materials: plywood or plastic;
There is an option for wrapping roses, this is used thermal insulation material eg geotextile fabric.

Features of different types of shelter

Experienced gardeners give advice on shelter various types roses for the winter.

climbing rose. The stems of this species are not pruned for the winter. Healthy shoots are pinched, and only diseased shoots are cut out. You should be careful with long rose loops that are covered with soil. For them, you should carefully prepare a place, pour a layer of sand and a layer of spruce branches on top. The lashes removed from the support are carefully placed on this pillow. They put another layer of spruce branches on top of them, and a film on top.

There is another insulation option climbing roses. A rope is made from lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective frame is made of wood or lutrasil over them, and the top is covered with film.

Park roses. Most varieties of this species are frost-resistant. But young bushes should be covered for the winter. If the winter is predicted to be cold and severe frosts are expected, then you can cover the park rose using the dry method or digging.
Hybrid tea rose. For this species, standard hilling or frame will be good protection from low temperatures. And the use of spruce branches as an addition will make winter more comfortable for tea roses.

Watch the video! Bending and pruning climbing roses

Three most popular designs for covering roses

Frame method

You can build a frame using a base of metal rods. They are rolled into an arc and the edges are driven into the ground.
It is better to cover with insulating material after the onset of the first frost. When the temperature drops below 0 degrees for 7 days, you can insulate the frame.
The frame is covered with hilled bushes. For it, you can take the metal rods mentioned above, old wicker baskets, large plastic flowerpots, boards, etc. The frame is constructed in this way:
the area around the bush is marked;
a shelter or dome is formed;
covered with covering material, and the plant is sprinkled with foliage or pine needles, especially if a cold winter is expected;
On all sides, the insulation is pressed against the edges with bricks so that the roses can be ventilated.

This method is convenient for large rose gardens and flower beds. Insulation is stretched over the frame, if necessary in two layers, and pressed from below with boards or bricks.

Frame shelters can be of several types:

from the rods you can make a small conical frame for low-growing species or a large spherical or cone-shaped frame for bush varieties.
Can be made from wooden beams. The base of the frame is in the center of the flowerbed, and metal rods are stuck in arcs on both sides. Covering material is pulled on top.
You can take three iron rods, stick them around the bush and connect them with wire. The insulation is stretched on top. For bushes that grow sparsely, this method is very convenient.
For Moscow region and middle zone Russia use air-dry shelter. A frame is installed on the prepared, hilled bush, and insulation is wrapped on top, which is secured with rope.

Fence with embankment

The essence of this method is that a fence is made around the bush, insulation is poured inside: foliage, pine needles, hay, etc. You can use mesh, plywood, cardboard. The fence is made according to the height and width of the bush. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap it in polyethylene so that the insulation does not spill out.

Cocoon made of lutrasil

Tall varieties, especially standard ones, are often insulated, leaving the stem on a support, and the crown is wrapped with covering material.

In this case, the root must be hilled. You can wrap the cocoon with lutrasil or other insulation.

It should be tied at the bottom so that cold air didn't go inside.

Advice! In rainy weather it is better to protect the bush from excess moisture. To do this, water is drained from the rose garden, and the bushes are additionally covered with plastic film.

Conclusion

It is worth noting that even if roses grow in warm winters, where the weather is around -5 -10 degrees, they should still be insulated for the winter. Not only is this protection from the cold, it is also a method of preventing the development of rot, late blight and other diseases. The main thing in this is to choose a covering method that is suitable for the type of rose and the type of climate, then the rose gardens will be healthy and beautiful.

Watch the video! How to cover roses for the winter: the surest way