Diseases and pests of roses: photos, descriptions and treatment. Black spot on roses, treatment, how to fight

Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew on the picture

When the fungal disease of roses is powdery mildew, a powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; thickening and curvature are observed.

As can be seen in the photo, powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating, which is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:

Powdery mildew on roses
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish coating (photo)

The pathogen overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.

The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high air humidity. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of the soil and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.

Rose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew are those that have dense, glossy leaves of the “Gloria Day” type.

To treat powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Topaz, Chistotsvet, Fundazol or Skor. At temperatures above 22°C it is possible to spray with “Grey Colloid” or “Tiovit Jet”. If necessary, to combat this disease of roses, treatments are repeated as new growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.

Rust of roses in the photo

With this disease of roses, the affected parts of the shoots become bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems near the opening buds and at the root collar. This is the spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensely in years with warm and wet springs.

Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also severely disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.

With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form, which can give rise to several generations and infect new plants.

In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small round black pads.

Look at the photo - if this rose disease has severely affected the plant, the entire leaves turn yellow and fall off prematurely:

Affected parts of rose shoots (photo)
With rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form (photo)

The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.

To protect roses from this disease, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn affected foliage, and in early spring(before the buds open) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes must be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.

To treat rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and promptly trim shoots affected by the stem form of rust; from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes (“Oxychom”, “Abiga-Peak”, “Hom”, “ Copper oxychloride", "Ordan").

Rose leaf disease black spot in photo

Black spot disease of roses is also called marsonina after the name of the fungus that causes the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves. different sizes. The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.

Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and bloom poorly the next year.

Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease, forming radiantly growing strands.

As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:

With this disease of roses, radiance can be clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo)
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease (photo)

This disease of rose leaves manifests itself more strongly in dense plantings, in shaded areas, and in poorly ventilated areas.

Measures to combat this disease include:

• correct agricultural technology that increases plant resistance;
• careful collection of affected leaves in the fall and burning them;
• spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
• To treat this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation for spraying (Skor to protect roses), which is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action.

Treatments must be started when the first signs of the disease appear and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.

These photos show how to treat black spot disease of roses:

Bacterial rose cancer disease in the photo

With bacterial canker of roses, growths of varying sizes form on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberculate surface. They consist of soft fabric, first white, then brown and decomposed by bacteria in the soil.

There are also hard, lignified growths that grow every year. Less commonly, the above-ground part is affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here, tuberous nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.

Cancer-causing bacteria affect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on plant roots, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.

The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, root damage, and alkaline soil reaction.

When replanting, plants with damaged root collars must be destroyed and growths on the lateral roots must be trimmed. To treat this disease of roses, after pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution. copper sulfate and then washed in water and dipped in liquid mixture clay with sand. Avoid excess manure fertilizer, destroy insects that damage the roots, and do not dig up the soil near the bushes.

Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:

Fungal disease burns rose branches in the photo

Branch burn is fungal disease, in which, reddish spots first appear on the branches, later darkening in the middle; the red-brown border persists for quite a long time. As the spots grow, they ring the branches. Tissue sagging may form above the affected area. Diseased branches usually dry out at the end of summer.

The development of “burn” is facilitated by excess humidity under the winter shelter.

To avoid severe damage to roses, cover should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be pruned and burned in a timely manner.

As shown in the photo, when treating this disease of roses, plants need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:

Proper agricultural practices (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) help reduce the severity of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good ripening of the wood until the end of the plant growing season.

For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered in dry weather if possible, so that increased humidity is not created under the cover. Before covering, unripe shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution iron sulfate.

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is widespread throughout the world. Roses affect a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees and nuts.

Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying out. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. This disease Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible.

First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual areas of the bark. Large, clearly visible orange-red fungal pycnidia tubercles appear over the entire area of ​​the affected bark, protruding from under the skin.

Look at the photo - with this rose disease, cracks form at the border of the affected and healthy tissue:

The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry out - downward, killing cells adjacent to the zone of its spread with its toxins.

Cytosporosis disease should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.

Also regularly carry out activities that increase the vitality of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilization, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.

Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the “sleeping” buds and 3% Bordeaux mixture on the green cone to some extent inhibits the spread and development of the disease.

Carrying out pruning of bushes in optimal timing protects roses from the appearance of cytosporosis.

Gray rot on roses (photo)

Gray rot of roses (botrytis) mainly affects buds with pedicels, the tops of young stems and leaves - in damp weather they become covered with a gray fluffy coating.

First of all, this disease of garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often those with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.

Foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in the spring. The fungal spores are then spread by insects and wind. Therefore, an undesirable “neighbor” for roses is, for example, garden strawberries, very susceptible to botrytis.

Gray rot appears on roses when plantings are thickened, or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening, when the rose leaves do not have time to dry before night.

How to deal with gray rot of roses personal plot? Measures to combat and prevent this rose disease are the same as against other fungal diseases.

Interesting facts about rose diseases

Speaking about rose diseases, we can highlight several interesting facts:

• You can determine how resistant roses are to disease by their leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a waxy coating, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents infection from penetrating into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
• There are no completely disease-resistant varieties. Even those varieties that are labeled “disease-resistant” in catalogs lose this valuable quality after 5-6 years, as diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate, like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can only be found in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms or on city streets.
• Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and considering that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
• Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights or dew in the morning favor black spot. Powdery mildew, and among pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.
• Florists can to some extent influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their occurrence. Strong, well-groomed plants are less likely to get sick, and they are more resistant to pest infestation.

Watch the video “Rose Diseases”, which shows all the main plant diseases and methods of combating them:

How to treat roses against diseases: effective remedies

All flower growers, without exception, are interested in how to treat roses against diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.

"Alirin-B"- a biological preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. Effective in the fight against powdery mildew of ornamental and other plants.

"Glyokladin"- an analogue of the well-known drug “Trichodermin”. Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases, such as fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, blackleg and clubroot of cabbage.

"Gamair"- a drug intended to protect against a wide range of bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spot, bacterial burn, bacterial cancer.

"Topaz"- systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vines against powdery mildew. This preparation for treating roses against diseases can be used as a protective, therapeutic and exterminating agent against rust. The drug is available in the form of an emulsion concentrate.

As a means of extermination against a high degree of powdery mildew, Topaz is used in increased concentrations (up to 10 ml), carrying out 2 sprayings with an interval of 7 days.

The drug provides reliable protection against powdery mildew even against a high infectious background. Topaz is not phytotoxic and does not leave stains on treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic agent, it reduces the number of treatments, as it is effective for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of the drug being washed off by rain.

To avoid the emergence of resistance in powdery mildew pathogens, it is recommended to alternate “Topaz” with contact copper-containing preparations and sulfur colloidal and not to use it on the same crop more than 4 times per season.

"Topaz" Compatible with most drugs used in gardens against diseases and pests. The speed of exposure is 2-3 hours after spraying.

What else can you use to treat roses against diseases and to prevent infections in your garden?

"Pure Flower"- a new drug for protecting flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).

Directions for use: the required dose of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small volume of water. Then, with constant stirring, bring the volume of the working solution to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. Term safe exit people for manual work - after 7 days. Speed ​​of action of the drug: 2 hours after treatment.

Period of protective action: during preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.

Therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. Amateur gardeners are not recommended to mix this drug with other protective agents when spraying plants.

"Pure Flower" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".

"Fundazol"- systemic drug and disinfectant planting material to protect against a range of diseases.

When using the drug, fill the container for treating planting material 1/3 with water, then add the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!

"Speed ​​to Protect Roses" from black spotting, ornamental and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.

Spray with freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, wetting the plants evenly.

Working fluid consumption: on roses - up to 1 liter per plant; on flowering plants and ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.

Do not store the working solution! Release dates for Handmade: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is not practical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure period: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. Cultures are tolerant to the drug. There is no resistance. Low danger to bees (class 3). Toxic to fish, do not allow to enter water bodies.

"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) is one of the copper-containing preparations for combating diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.

When using, dilute the contents of the package (40 g) in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o’clock) or in the evening (18-22 o’clock), evenly wetting the leaves. In recommended doses the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.

The drug is dangerous for bees and fish; do not treat during flowering. Do not allow to enter water bodies.

These photos show effective means for the treatment of rose diseases:

How to spray roses against diseases: the best preparations

Don’t know what to spray roses against diseases to protect the flowers? Then use the following drugs, which are considered one of the best.

"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing contact action fungicide intended to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetable, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, grapevines and medicinal plants.

The drug is used during the growing season by spraying plants.

A 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for treating 100 m2.

The contents of the bubble are pre-dissolved in 1 liter of water and, with thorough mixing, brought to 10 liters with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.

Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are treated by evenly covering the shoots, leaves and fruits with the working solution.

Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamel containers.

This medicine against rose diseases provides reliable protection of plants from diseases even under unfavorable weather conditions. The preparation contains an adhesive that allows the active substance “Abiga-Peak” to adhere firmly to the treated plant surface.

Very important!"Abiga-Pik" is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Easy to use, non-toxic. The product does not generate dust when preparing the working solution. The prepared solution, but not used due to weather conditions, can be stored for a long time.

"Abiga Peak" has a beneficial effect on the quality of grown products. When using it, good ripening of young shoots is observed.

The best remedies for combating rose diseases are shown in the photo:

"Tiovit Jet"- a means to combat diseases of flower and fruit crops.

Directions for use: dissolve the dose of the drug in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water to 10 liters. Treat with a freshly prepared solution in dry, windless weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.

"Tiovit" has good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic for birds, bees, fish.

The advantages of the drug are that it is simultaneously a fungicide, an acaricide, and a microelement; provides reliable plant protection for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.

"Colloidal sulfur" It is used mainly to combat powdery mildew and various types of herbivorous mites on flower crops. It is effective only at air temperatures above +20...+22°C, since sulfur vapors work.

Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the drug is first stirred in a small amount of warm water until creamy, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before treatment).

The last processing time before harvest is 3 days.

The drug is not dangerous for humans and warm-blooded animals. “Colloidal sulfur”, as a rule, does not burn the leaves.

However, many gooseberry varieties drop their leaves after processing. Therefore, you should not use sulfur to control American gooseberry powdery mildew or spray roses near this bush.

Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for use of a particular drug.

Like all cultivated plants, roses suffer from diseases and are affected by pests. However, this should not be taken as something inevitable. Special danger pests They are usually represented by roses growing in unfavorable cultural conditions. Sometimes decisive role Certain weather conditions, and more often a complex of these factors, play a role.

The most common pests are: rose aphids, thrips, spider mites, rose leafhoppers; Roses are also damaged by various types of sawflies, gall moths, beetles, weevils, bronze beetles, etc.

High temperatures, for example, can encourage the proliferation of some pests, and prolonged wet weather causes the spread of fungal diseases.

If, moreover, roses grow in an inappropriate place for them, then diseases are inevitable:

• Gray rot, for example, spreads especially quickly in wet weather; moreover, many gardeners plant roses densely, and the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain.
• Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights or dew in the morning favor black spot.
• Powdery mildew, and among pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these pests.

Pests and diseases of roses with photos, descriptions and methods of treatment are for your attention on this page.

Fungal disease of roses: powdery mildew and how to get rid of it

First, check out the photo and description of the rose disease powdery mildew, which develops due to a lack of calcium or dry soil.

Powdery mildew. A powdery coating appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; their thickening and curvature are observed.

Powdery mildew on roses is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus. The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold, damp soils.

Look at the photos of powdery mildew on roses below:

IN closed ground This disease of roses develops especially strongly in rooms with insufficient lighting and humid, stale air. Sudden changes in temperature, drafts, drying out of the soil in pots and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea roses and varieties with more delicate foliage are especially strongly affected by this fungal disease.

How to get rid of powdery mildew on roses and prevent re-infection?

When the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with: “Topaz”, “Fundazol” or “Skorom”. You can use the systemic drug "Raek" with long-term preventive and therapeutic effects.

Rust on roses: description of the disease and how to treat it

Rust. The affected parts of the shoots become bent and thickened.

As you can see in the photo, with this disease of roses in the spring, orange dust appears on the stems of the budding buds and at the root collar:

This is the spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. Rust on roses develops most intensively in years with a warm and wet spring.

Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also severely disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.

In summer, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the undersides of leaves, which can produce several generations and infect new plants.

In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small round black pads. When severely affected by the disease, the leaves completely turn yellow and fall off prematurely.

The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.

How to treat rust on roses and when is the best time to treat plants?

To combat rust, one-sided nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In the fall, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in the early spring (before the buds open) spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1 - 1.5%). The soil under the bushes must be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.

It is recommended to carefully and promptly treat those affected by the stem form of rust. To treat this disease of roses, from the moment the buds open, repeatedly spray the plants (1%) or its substitutes (Oxychom, Abiga-Pik, Hom, copper oxychloride, Ordan, Topaz).

How to deal with black spot disease on rose leaves

Black leaf spot (Marsonina). In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots of different sizes form on the leaves. The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.

Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and bloom poorly the next year.

Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus, the causative agent of the disease, develops, forming radiantly growing strands. This radiance in case of black spot disease of rose leaves can be clearly visible at the edge of the spots. Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights or dew in the morning favor black spot.

Roses get sick more severely when the planting is dense, in shaded areas, or when the area is poorly ventilated.

How to deal with black spot on rose leaves and when to start treating plants?

Measures to combat this disease include: proper agricultural technology that increases plant resistance; careful removal of affected leaves in autumn and burning them; spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust. Treatments must be started when the first signs of the disease appear and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.

Gray rot on roses: description and how to fight

Below we describe the rose rot disease and how to deal with it in your garden.

Gray rot, for example, in wet weather it multiplies especially quickly, and considering that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering. This fungal disease primarily affects the buds and pedicels. A whitish-gray fluffy coating appears on them. The buds do not open and rot.

The development of gray rot of roses is promoted by fogs and morning dew, as well as excessive sprinkling, especially in the evening. If there is excess humidity, the entire bush can get sick and die.

Do not plant roses next to strawberries, which suffer from gray mold more often than other plants.

How to fight gray mold on roses using effective means?

At the first signs of the disease, spray the affected plants with a solution of Euparen Multi. Also water the soil under the bushes with a solution of Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B or Gamair.

Bacterial canker on roses: photos and how to fight the disease

Bacterial cancer. Growths of various sizes form on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter.

Look what bacterial cancer looks like on roses - the growths consist of soft tissue and have an uneven tuberculate surface:

During the process of decomposition by bacteria, they gradually change color from white to brown. There are also hard, lignified growths that grow every year.

Less commonly, the above-ground part is affected - trunks and branches, mainly of standard remontant roses. Here, tuberous nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.

The pathogen that causes bacterial canker on roses affects many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on plant roots, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.

The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, wounded roots, and alkaline soil reaction.

When replanting, plants with damaged root collars must be destroyed and growths on the lateral roots must be trimmed. After pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in a liquid mixture of clay and sand. With stem cancer, depressed necrotic spots first appear, on which the bark cracks, then their edges thicken. Affected stems die if the edges of the spots close together.

Burn of rose leaves and branches: description and control of the disease

Burn of leaves and branches of roses is a fungal disease. At first, reddish spots appear on the branches, later darkening in the middle; the red-brown border persists for quite a long time. As the spots grow, they ring the branches. Tissue sagging may form above the affected area. Diseased branches usually dry out in the second half of summer.

The development of “burn” is facilitated by excess humidity under the winter shelter.

To avoid severe damage to roses, cover should be removed earlier in the spring. Diseased and frozen branches must be promptly pruned and burned, and the plants must be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust.

Proper agricultural technology (timely application of fertilizers, loosening and watering) helps reduce the severity of the disease; it is necessary to ensure good ripening of the wood until the end of the plant growing season.

For the winter, plants should be covered in dry weather if possible in such a way that high humidity is not created under the cover.

Before covering, unripe shoots and leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Cytosporosis: photo and treatment of roses for the disease

Cytosporosis- This fungal disease is widespread everywhere. It affects roses, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and a number of ornamental shrubs.

Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying out. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes that are weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease.

First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual areas of the bark. Large, clearly visible orange-red tubercles appear over the entire area of ​​the affected bark - fungal pycnidia, protruding from under the skin.

Cracks form at the border between the affected and healthy tissue. The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry out - downward, killing cells adjacent to the zone of its spread with its toxins.

Cytosporosis disease should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage. And also regularly carry out activities that increase the vitality of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilizing, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches that show signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.

How to treat roses against this disease to curb the spread of infection?

Early spring pruning of plants, spraying roses with 0.5% Abiga-Pik or 3% Bordeaux mixture over a green cone to some extent inhibit the spread and development of the disease.

Green aphid, a pest of flowers and rose buds

Green aphid damages roses and rose hips, harms greenhouses and open ground. The pest, among other types of aphids, is quite large, shiny, green in color, sometimes brown with very long black antennae.

In the spring, the larvae of these pests of rose buds hatch from overwintered eggs and turn into wingless females. Among subsequent generations, winged female dispersers appear, flying to other plants, where they form new colonies. Ten generations or more develop during the year.

The number of these pests of roses in open ground usually increases in June, and they cause damage until the end of summer. Aphids settle mainly on the ends of young shoots and buds; there are few aphids on the leaves. Rose shoots damaged by green aphids are often bent and the buds do not open.

Treatment of roses against these pests begins when the first larvae appear and is repeated as needed after two to three weeks until the aphids completely disappear. For this purpose use: “Iskra Double Effect”, “Iskra-M” or “Konfidor”, “Commander”, “Tanrek”, “Bison”.

A significant advantage of the listed drugs against pests of rose flowers is their high efficiency even in hot weather, a systemic mechanism of action, rapid penetration into plant tissue and not being washed off by rain.

In nature, aphids are destroyed by the lacewing and ladybug.

Spider mites on roses: photos and how to get rid of them

Spider mite on roses, it is especially dangerous for roses in dry, hot summers. Optimal conditions for its development is a temperature of + 29... +31° with air humidity below 35%. Under such conditions, the number of ticks increases rapidly, because every 10-15 days a new generation of the pest appears.

As you can see in the photo, the spider mite on the rose sucks out the cell sap from the leaves, as a result of which small light spots (pricks) appear on them, the leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off:

How to get rid of spider mites on a rose by spraying?

The most effective in the fight against spider mite are:"Fufanon" and "Iskra-M". Spraying roses in the presence of a mite must be repeated after 10-12 days until its harmfulness decreases. If you use Tiovit Jet or colloidal sulfur in the fight against powdery mildew, then these drugs inhibit the reproduction of mites.

Rose leafhopper: description and treatment of roses from a pest

Below you will find a description of the leafhopper rose pest and learn about fighting it in your summer cottage.

Rose leafhopper. Rose leafhopper larvae settle on the underside of leaves and suck out the juice. The upper surface of the leaves changes color, they turn white, acquiring a marble color. When the pest population is large, damaged leaves fall prematurely. Roses growing in warm, sheltered places are especially affected by leafhoppers.

The pest itself is a small white-yellow insect with two pairs of wings, which in a calm state fold over the back like a roof. The length of an adult insect is 3.5 mm, width is 0.7 mm.

Look at the photo - this rose pest resembles an apple psyllid:

The larva is white or pale yellow with a wedge-shaped, pointed abdomen. The length of the larva is 2 - 3 mm, width - 0.8 mm.

The eggs overwinter on branches at the base of the buds and in the forks. The larvae appear during bud break. Develops during May-June. Unlike the larvae of aphids and psyllids, they are very mobile: when disturbed, they quickly run away to the opposite side of the leaf.

At the end of June, the larvae develop wing rudiments and turn into nymphs. At the beginning of July, leafhoppers fledge and adult insects appear. Winged leafhoppers, like larvae and nymphs, settle on the underside of leaves, sucking the juice from them. After fledging, the adult leafhopper leaves the leaf on which it was nursed and flies to grass and other plants or branches.

On leaves damaged by the leafhopper - whitish with marbled colors - white skins remain on the underside after the molting of larvae and nymphs.

In addition to roses, leafhoppers damage rose hips and other plants from the Rosaceae family.

How to treat roses from these pests to protect the plants?

When fighting the pest, use the same drugs as when fighting aphids. When spraying roses against pests, make sure that the underside of the leaf is thoroughly covered with the poison solution.

Rose sawfly and leafcutter bee on roses

Here you can see a photo description of the rose pests rose sawfly and leafcutter bee.

Sawflies(rose, slimy, comb-whiskered, descending) eat leaves from the edges or scrape off the upper skin of the leaf, eat holes on the leaves. And the descending sawfly, appearing at the top of a young shoot, penetrates the shoot, bores a passage up to 4 cm long there, as a result the shoot hangs, the leaves on it wither. Sawflies overwinter in the soil in cocoons.

To combat these pests, the same drugs are used as against aphids, and spraying with the drug “Molniya” also has a high effect.

Leaf Cutter Bee. On the leaves of roses and rose hips at the end of June - July you can see regularly cut oval or completely round holes.

This is the job of the leafcutter bee, which uses them to build its nest. Having chosen a suitable ready-made cavity - an abandoned bee burrow, a barbel burrow or a mink earthworm- the bee begins to stuff it with carelessly cut pieces of rough oak, grape, and hawthorn leaves. This plug serves to protect the nest.

After the plug is made, the bee begins to cut out oval pieces of the more delicate rose leaves, . Sitting on the sheet, she carefully “cuts” it, like scissors, starting from the edge and gradually turning in a circle. First, the outer layer of the cell is made from large leaves, covering about a third of the circumference of the channel, so that the individual pieces overlap each other, and their lower ends are folded in, forming the bottom of the cell. After this, the builder closes the gaps remaining between the first pieces with smaller pieces of leaves and thickens the walls.

In order to seal a cell filled with food, the bee cuts out perfectly round pieces of leaves. In this case, the diameter of the first of them is exactly equal to the diameter of the cell, and the subsequent ones are cut out large and turn out to be concave inward, forming the bottom of the next cell. The first cell is followed by the second and so on.

The largest nest of a leafcutter bee has up to 17 cells. In total, it takes more than 1,000 pieces of leaves to build the nest, including the plug.

The finished nest of a leaf cutter bee is a long cylinder that easily breaks down into individual cells. The leaves from which each one is made are easy to disassemble. Later, this is more difficult to do, since, when pupating, the larva releases a sticky liquid into the spaces between the pieces of leaves, which, when solidified, holds them together.

You can protect roses from this bee by spraying the plants in the late evenings with one of the drugs that destroy wasps (“Super Fas”, “Otos”),

A new remedy has appeared - Adamant wasp bait. The drug “Sovka-Zh” also repels wasps. Nests in the ground can be filled with boiling water.

Beetles on roses: weevils and bronze beetles

The most dangerous beetles on roses are the weevil and the bronze beetle.

Weevils (leaf beetle). These are pests that gnaw the edges of the leaves of all types of roses - the beetles are quite large in size (up to 1 cm). They are black and gray and flightless. They lead an active lifestyle at night, and during the day they hide under lumps of soil. That's why we don't see them. But not only weevil beetles are dangerous for roses, but also their legless larvae, which are also large and ivory-colored. The larvae live exclusively in the ground and eat roots.

If the pest population is large, rose bushes may die. Due to severe damage to the leaves, their useful area is reduced, and the plants wither, and then there are weakened roots.

Weevils are especially dangerous for bushes growing in the shade of trees, in dense plantings, with poor ventilation, as well as for old bushes weakened by time and poor agricultural practices.

Beetles can be controlled by spraying roses with one of the insecticides in the evening at sunset. Beetles can be collected manually at nightfall by the light of a flashlight, of course, if there are not too many of them yet.

Golden bronze. This shiny green beetle with a coppery-gold hue is very fond of yellow and white roses. The beetle is quite large (10-15 mm long and 12-14 mm wide). On the underside it is bronze-green in color with a metallic sheen. The elytra have thin transverse, irregular shape, white stripes.

Beetles damage flowers by eating stamens and pistils and gnawing petals.

Gardeners call it the "Chafer bug." The larva lives in the ground, it is six-legged, thick, white, up to 60 mm long, very similar to the larva of the cockchafer, but, unlike the latter, it feeds on humus and does not damage the roots.

At the end of summer, the larvae pupate, beetles emerge from them, spend the winter in the soil, and fly out the following summer.

The beetles fly from May to August, damaging the flowers of not only roses, but also white lilies and fruit plants.

Since plants cannot be sprayed with pesticides during the flowering period, the main measure to combat bronze blight is manual collection beetles early in the morning, when they do not fly, but sit motionless on flowers.

Nutworm and cutworm on roses: photos and spraying against pests

Nutcracker. These galls are formed by insect pests. They are capable of destroying the entire rosehip crop and depleting the bush. With severe damage, growth decreases and the winter hardiness of plants decreases. The gallworms overwinter as larvae in damaged fruits. Adult insects fly and infection of young ovaries occurs in late May - early June.

In the fight against gallworms, it is necessary to spray the rose hips twice immediately after flowering with the same pesticides that are used against aphids and other pests. Good results gives the use of the drug “Molniya” (2 ml per 10 liters of water).

At the same time, mechanical control should be carried out (cut off and burn the emerging galls).

Scoops. Armyworm caterpillars live in the soil and feed mainly at night, so we often only see traces of their activity.

If there is a lot of damage, use pest control drugs (the same as against aphids), spraying in the evening after sunset.

Depending on the degree of damage, the bud may produce a deformed flower, so it is better not to leave it on the plant.

Thrips on roses: photos and fight against them

Trips. Small (up to 1 mm) sucking pest. Larvae, nymphs and adults of this pest feed on buds, flowers, leaves and young shoots of roses.

As you can see in the photo, thrips on roses have a light yellow color:

Thrips weaken roses by sucking juices from leaves, buds and flowers. Buds and flowers damaged by pests, especially those in light colors, become covered with characteristic small red specks. The flower becomes disheveled and quickly fades. At the base of the petals, pests are clearly visible to the naked eye. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves. They acquire a silvery tint, as if damaged by spider mites.

Adult insects overwinter in top layer soil and under plant debris.

Roses that are most at risk are those growing in warm, dry places, such as against the walls of a house, on south-facing terraces, or near tiled or asphalt paths and areas.

In the spring, thrips feed on weeds, then fly to the rose bushes.

In greenhouses, the pest produces up to eight generations per year. One generation develops within 22 - 30 days.

To combat thrips on roses in case of severe damage, the same preparations are used to spray roses as in the fight against aphids.

Handsome and blooming garden- it's not just about planting cultivated plants, but also daily care after them. Of course, unique decoration The rose will become the “queen of flowers” ​​in any garden. Have you noticed black spots on the leaves of your rose? But you don’t know what to do with the plant and how to treat the leaves? Then this article is for you!

Causes and symptoms of appearance

The effectiveness of combating any disease depends on the correct definition of the disease and finding out the causes of its occurrence. Black spotting of roses is easily identified by its characteristic features:

• the bush stops growing and does not produce new buds;
• dark spots form on the lower leaves of the plant, which visually resemble the sun in their shape;
• the diameter of the spots can be from 5 to 15 mm;
• the brownish-colored center with a yellow edging gradually acquires a darker color;
• small black spots on roses eventually combine into one large one, affecting the entire leaf, as a result of which the leaf turns yellow, dries out and falls off;
• the disease moves from bottom to top.

The disease progresses especially in the second half of summer. Several active outbreaks are possible in one growing season. Climbing, tea and polyanthus varieties of roses are at risk.

In addition to defining the disease (black spot of roses is often confused with powdery mildew), it is important to establish the causes that could influence the occurrence and development of the disease. So, the key reasons include:

• an incorrectly selected place for planting a seedling (poor air circulation, lack of sun, and a large number of plants prevent the evaporation of moisture, which contributes to the development of fungus);
• weather and climatic conditions (abundance of precipitation, after which the dry season begins - an excellent environment for the proliferation of spores of fungal infections);
• improperly organized feeding (both lack and excess of fertilizers);
• lack of proper care for ornamental crops.

What is the danger to the plant?

Black spot on roses is a dangerous disease. As you know, it is much easier to prevent any illness than to deal with it later. possible consequences, but, as they say, anything happens in life. We did not carry out timely prevention of diseases of ornamental crops or did not pay attention to black and brown spots on the lower leaves - now we have to deal with what is already there.

Remember that the disease will not go away on its own. If you do not take emergency treatment measures, the rose will first shed its lower leaves, which already have dark spots, then all the remaining foliage will turn yellow and fall off. The disease gradually covers the entire plant, after one or two seasons the rose will die.

Black spot is a fungal disease of Marssonina rosae that is spread by dew or rain. Having discovered dark marks on the leaves of one ornamental crop and not having taken any methods to combat the disease, you should not be surprised when, over time, you see similar symptoms on other plants in your rose garden.

Prevention and treatment

Have you noticed black spotting of roses in your garden, but don’t know how to fight it? It will be difficult to cure the plant if the disease is advanced. But don’t despair and give up - everything can still be fixed if you properly treat the affected areas and take action. preventive measures in relation to other rose bushes.

Unfortunately, most of novice gardeners make an irreparable mistake in caring for their rose garden: noticing that the leaves with black spots fall off on their own, they let the situation take its course, hoping that the disease will go away over the winter without their intervention. Fungal spores overwinter in the soil and become active with the onset of spring.

What should you do when you notice the first signs of black spotting? Examine the plant carefully, tear off all the leaves affected by the fungus and burn them in a remote area of ​​the garden or even outside its territory. The next step is to treat the roses with fungicides that contain mancozeb and zinc. This procedure should be repeated every 2 weeks. To avoid the fungus getting used to the drug, alternate between different chemical agents. The most common and potent ones include: “Oxychom”, “Profit”, “Fundazol”, “Topaz”, “Skor”, “Strobe”, “Ridomil Gold”, copper oxychloride and others.

If you do not want to use chemicals, then you can try using biologically active drugs, among which Fitosporin-M is considered the most effective.

All means are good in the fight against black spotting, so we suggest you put some of them into practice. traditional methods:

• infusion of horsetail, dandelion and nettle;
• decoction of onion and garlic peels;
• sprinkling the affected areas with crushed ash;
• cow manure, previously diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10;
• decoction or infusion of citrus peels.

For greater effectiveness in the fight for a plant, you can combine folk methods with professional means.

Black spot is a rather serious disease found in roses, which is quite difficult to get rid of. It should be noted that this disease is quite common.

Among different varieties There is not a single variety of roses that is completely protected. In some cases, we can talk about less susceptibility to the disease, and nothing more. The plant can be made less susceptible. To do this, a newly planted absolutely healthy bush must be constantly inspected and drugs used to stimulate its growth.

To protect your rose garden from black spot, you need to resort to periodic prevention, which, in turn, is divided into activities such as:

• selection of the strongest and healthiest seedlings;
• Before planting seedlings, they should be thoroughly treated with a bactericidal and fungicidal agent - Fitosporin-M. The most effective would be to use this drug in the form of a paste;
• It would be useful to enrich the soil with bacteria. To do this, you can add compost to the soil, mulch the soil, and also use some preparations, such as Gamair or Fitosporin-M;
• The addition of potassium-based fertilizers will be extremely beneficial for healthy plant growth. To help avoid infection of roses with black spot, liming soil that is too thick and using ash will help;
• the distance at which the bushes are planted also plays an important role;
• timely pruning can also protect the plant from disease. Pruning not only allows you to give the plant the required shape, but also makes it possible to promptly remove diseased or simply dry branches;
• rose bushes must be sprayed annually with iron and copper sulfate. The best option would be to alternate medications. The bush is sprayed immediately after it opens. It is very important to seize the moment while its buds have not yet blossomed;
• After the leaves bloom, additional spraying of the bushes is carried out. Biological preparations can be used for this; in this case, spraying will need to be repeated after 1 - 2 weeks. When using chemical preparations, spraying is carried out only 1 time. It is very important to remember that spraying can only be done at temperatures above 10 degrees. Biological products include fermented grass, Gumistar, onion peel infusion, Fitosporin-M, ash infusion and Baikal-EM. Chemicals include Topaz or Strobi;
• in the first months of summer, feeding rose bushes with mullein, ammonium nitrate or Bucephalus will be useful;
• in May and June you can also feed roses with potassium fertilizers;
• from July to August, plants must be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
• Regular spraying of plants is necessary throughout the summer period. The spraying agent can be Zircon, an infusion of dandelion or nettle, as well as Vermikofe. Spraying with immune drugs and stimulants will make the bush stronger and more beautiful;
• proximity is also extremely important for the health of the plant. The most suitable neighbors for roses are lavender, sage, catnip and tagetes;
• If you cannot get rid of the disease for several years, you should think about giving up the multicultural rosary. In the presence of large quantity plants related to various types, their gradual weakening occurs;
• You need to make it a rule to constantly collect and burn fallen leaves. A similar procedure should be carried out not only in the fall, but also in the summer;
• there should be no weeds in the flower garden, as they have a depressing effect on roses;
• For those who prefer chemical treatments, iron sulfate will be useful. All bushes should be treated with a solution of this product before covering them for wintering;
• when using biological agents, Fitosporin-M will be necessary, which should be used to treat the bushes themselves. In this case, the soil should be shed with the same preparation, but only in liquid form. The biological product can be used at a temperature of at least 15 degrees; lower temperatures will be detrimental to the bush;
• Immediately before the shelter, all the foliage should be collected again.

To get healthy and beautiful flower garden, it is necessary to remember the timeliness of the activities carried out. In addition, it would not be superfluous to hold such events throughout the entire garden.

What to do if the rose is sick?

If the plant is still sick, you can, of course, hope that it will recover on its own, or you can begin to actively treat it.

Treatment

The initial action that should be taken immediately is to remove all infected leaves. All leaves that have already fallen off on their own should be carefully collected and certainly burned.

For those who believe in the achievements of chemistry, you will need a copper-containing reagent, the solution of which should be sprayed on the bush. In addition, the bush will need to be treated with contact fungicides. Such processing must be carried out at least 3 times. Copper-containing drugs include OxyXOM and Bordeaux mixture. You can also use copper sulfate. The most effective contact fungicides include Previkur and Fundazol.

If you want to use exclusively biological products, you should use Fitosporin when primary signs of the disease appear. It is best to use this drug together with Siliplant or Zircon. Treatment must be carried out at least 3 - 4 times. The interval between treatments should be about 5 days.

In the intervals between spraying the bushes, the soil between them should be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M.

Before covering the plant for wintering, you should carefully collect all the foliage. Affected foliage must be burned.

Before covering the bush, treat it with a solution of iron sulfate.

In spring, the bush must be cut very short and preventative measures must be taken.

Rose, like the true queen of the garden, requires special attention. If the growing rules are not followed, or if the weather conditions are unfavorable, roses develop various diseases, which are caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses. Treating rose diseases is always more difficult than preventing their development. Therefore, always try to take preventive measures to prevent diseases.

Disease Prevention

To protect these beautiful flowers It is important to take a number of preventive measures against diseases:

1. Pruning and destruction of weak and diseased shoots, dried leaves and other plant debris on which pathogenic fungi and bacteria can overwinter.
2. To prevent diseases, rose bushes are sprayed with chemicals and biological drugs broad spectrum of action: Alirin-B, Skor, Topaz, etc.
3. Periodic inspections of rose bushes are necessary so as not to miss the onset of the disease and its spread to neighboring plants. An advanced disease is difficult to treat and can lead to the death of the rose.
4. Do not overfeed plants with nitrogen fertilizers, and in the second half of summer, completely exclude nitrogen from fertilizing.
5. Periodic fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increases the plant's resistance to disease.

Rose diseases are divided into fungal, bacterial and viral. This article provides descriptions, photos and methods of treating the following diseases:

Powdery mildew

The spread of this disease is facilitated by dense plantings, prolonged summer rains, a big difference day and night temperatures, excessive application of nitrogen with fertilizing. First of all, powdery mildew affects young green shoots and leaves.

Powdery mildew on roses

Description of the disease

Fungal spores that fall on the plant germinate and form whitish powdery spots on the leaves and shoots, which gradually grow. The rose bush is covered with an ash-gray powdery coating. The leaves dry out, the shoots become deformed and stop developing.

Treatment options

• If signs of disease are detected, leaves and shoots with plaque should be immediately trimmed and destroyed.
• Spray the bushes with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur. The working solution is prepared immediately before use. Take 100 g of sulfur per bucket of water. The foliage is sprayed from the top and bottom in dry, windless weather.
• For severe damage, the following drugs are effective: Skor, Topaz, Fundazol, Vitaros. Fungicides need to be alternated, because the fungus develops resistance to drugs.

Folk remedies

Traditional methods of treatment work at the initial stage of rose bush disease and as prevention.

• 4 g soda ash stir in 1 liter hot water, add 4 g of soap shavings. The resulting solution is sprayed onto the diseased plant twice at weekly intervals.
• A third of the bucket with fresh mullein is filled with water and left for three days. The mixture is stirred periodically. The resulting infusion is diluted with water 1:10 and sprayed on rose bushes in the evening.
• Mix 1 kg of ash with 10 liters of water and leave for two days. Add 40 g of soap shavings and spray the affected bushes twice with a week's break.

Prevention measures

• Timely removal and destruction of fallen leaves and weeds on which fungal spores may persist.
• From mid-summer, feed only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Excess nitrogen fertilizer reduces the resistance of roses to powdery mildew.
• In the spring after removing the cover and late autumn spray rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 0.4% copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
• Plant varieties of roses resistant to powdery mildew.
• Avoid dense planting of bushes.

Rust of roses

The disease is caused by a rust fungus, the spores of which are carried by wind or insects. Humid and warm weather favors the development of rust. This disease spreads easily and is difficult to treat.

This is what a plant affected by rust looks like.

Description of the disease

In the initial stage of the disease, bright red spots appear on the leaves of the rose. If you look at the underside of the leaf, you can see these orange sporulation tubercles in these places. This is the spring stage of rust fungus development.

With further development of the disease, the pustules acquire a brownish-rusty color. Yellow-red spots spread throughout the entire leaf blade, the leaves dry out and fall off. The shoots crack, bend and dry out. At the autumn stage of development, the pustules become dark. In this form, the fungus overwinters on infected parts of the plant.

Treatment methods

• All leaves and shoots with orange spots are cut off and burned.
• Spraying the rose and the soil around the bush with a solution of fungicides: Titan, Strobi, Falcon, Bayleton. Treatments should be carried out repeatedly with a two-week break, changing the preparations.
• Spraying roses with copper-containing preparations: hom, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate.

Folk remedies for treating rust

For 10 l warm water Take 1.5 kg of chopped milkweed stems. The mixture is infused for 24 hours in a warm place. The resulting infusion is filtered and used to spray the leaves.

Disease Prevention

• Pruning and destruction of diseased plant parts and weeds.
• Spraying bushes and soil around in late autumn and early spring with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, 3% solution of iron sulfate.
• Autumn digging of the earth near the bushes.

Downy mildew or downy mildew of roses

Downy mildew is a fungal disease of roses that spreads in conditions high humidity. Cool rainy weather, sharp changes in temperature at night and during the day with heavy dew contribute to the development of the disease. The fungus reproduces by zoospores, which move quickly in water. For infection, a damp film on the leaves is enough for the zoospores to penetrate the stomata of the leaf and begin their destructive work.

Rainy weather promotes the development of the disease.

Description of the disease

Downy mildew on roses appears as a light grayish or purple coating on the underside of the leaves. The fungal spores grow through the leaf tissue, and red and violet-brown spots appear on the surface of the leaf blade. The leaves turn yellow and fall off literally within two to three days. The disease primarily affects the upper young leaves.

At further dissemination spots may appear on the shoots, the buds may become deformed, and the outer petals darken and fall off. In the hot, dry summer the disease stops, but closer to autumn it begins with renewed vigor.

Treatment methods

• Destruction of infected leaves and shoots.
• For treatment, solutions of drugs are used: Ridomil Gold, Thanos, Alirin-B, Gamair, Profit. Spray roses and the soil around the bush every 10-14 days.

Traditional methods of treating the disease

• 1 liter of skim milk (skimmed milk) is mixed with 9 liters of water and 10 drops of a 5% alcohol solution of iodine are added. The resulting mixture is used to spray the bushes.
• Pour 1 glass of ash into 2 liters of boiled water, add water to 10 liters. Filter the solution and spray the roses.

Preventive measures

• Pruning and destruction of affected leaves, shoots and plant debris.
• In late autumn and early spring, spray with solutions of preparations containing copper.
• Fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers improves plant resistance to disease.

Black spot or marsonina rose

Black spot is a common fungal disease of roses that develops in damp, warm weather, in dense plantings, and with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.

This disease begins to spread from the bottom up.

Description of the disease

Black spotting begins to spread from the lower leaves to the top of the bush. Green shoots may also be affected. Dark brown and black spots with jagged, blurry edges appear on the foliage. The leaves turn yellow and fall off. Without treatment, the rose bush may lose all its foliage and remain bare. The shoots will not have time to ripen and prepare for winter. With a high probability, such a bush will die in winter.

How to treat the disease

• It is necessary to remove and destroy all damaged leaves and weak thin shoots.
• Spray with fungicides three to six times with a one-week break, alternating the preparations. Good results are given by Skor, Topaz, Profit Gold, Fundazol.

Traditional methods of treatment

Traditional methods are best used to prevent black spotting.

• Spraying with mullein infusion. 1 part mullein is mixed with 10 parts water and infused for several days.
• Pour 200 g of onion peel into 10 liters of water and heat to a boil. Leave for 8 hours. Strain the infusion and spray the rose bushes and the ground around.

Prevention

• Before covering roses for the winter, remove all foliage and weak shoots, clear the ground around of plant sediments.
• In early spring and late autumn, spray roses and surrounding soil with 3% iron or copper sulfate.
• Do not overfeed with nitrogen, but from mid-summer eliminate nitrogen from fertilizing.
• Fertilizing with potassium and phosphorus fertilizers increases the resistance of plants to fungal diseases, incl. to black spotting.
• Spraying with Fitosporin serves as good protection against many fungal diseases.

Among the fungal diseases of roses there are leaf spots, which manifest themselves in much the same way as black spot: Septoria leaf blight, phyllosticosis of leaves, purple rose spot, grayish spot (cercospora). Determining what type of spot has affected a rose can be difficult. But all these rose diseases can be treated in the same way as black spot.

Infectious rose burn

An infectious burn develops in conditions of poor ventilation and high humidity. Such conditions are created under shelter during thaws in winter.

In the photo there is an infectious burn of roses

Description of the disease

In early spring, black spots with a characteristic red-burgundy border appear on the shoots. With further development of the disease, the spots increase and ring the stem, the bark cracks and peels off. Sick shoots inevitably die.

How to treat an infectious burn on roses

If signs of disease are detected, all damaged parts must be cut out to healthy tissue. Cover the cut areas with garden varnish. Severely affected shoots must be cut out completely. Spray the bush with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Preventive measures to prevent illness

• Before sheltering, you need to remove all leaves and weak shoots from the bush, and plant debris from the ground near the bush.
• Roses should be covered for the winter in dry, cold weather.
• Before covering, treat the bush and the soil around it with a 3% solution of iron sulfate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
• In the spring, open the roses as soon as weather conditions allow and spray with a 0.4% solution of copper oxychloride (CHOM) or a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Bacterial diseases of roses

Bacterial root canker is caused by bacteria that live in the soil. Bacteria penetrate roots and shoots through cracks and wounds caused during planting or pruning with tools or caused by pests.

The photo shows bacterial root cancer

Description of the disease

Bacteria attack root tissue cells, which begin to divide uncontrollably. Light soft growths and swellings appear on the roots and root collar. They grow, become dark and hard. Subsequently, the growths rot. Plants affected by cancer develop poorly, wither and subsequently die.

Treatment of the disease

If cancer is detected early, you can try to cure the plant. The bush needs to be dug up and the roots and shoots with growths need to be cut off. Immerse the root in a 1% solution of copper sulfate for 5 minutes, then rinse with water and dip in a clay mash. It is better to burn heavily affected bushes.

Preventive measures

Before planting roses, disinfect the roots in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, rinse in water, and dip in clay mash.

• Water the planted bushes at the root with a solution of Fitolavin or Phytoplasmin. Preventive watering can be done several times.
• Organic fertilizers enrich the soil with antagonistic bacteria, which inhibit the development of bacterial cancer.

Bacterial stem cancer

Bacteria are spread by insects, wind, rain and affect young shoots of roses.

Bacterial cancer on a rose trunk.

Description of the disease

Dark brown spots form on young shoots. Subsequently, deep ulcers form at the site of the spots, nutrition and shoot growth are disrupted. Black spots appear on the foliage. Affected stems dry out, leaves turn black and fall off.

Treatment of the disease

• Trim diseased areas to healthy tissue. Disinfect the cut areas with a 5% solution of copper sulfate and cover oil paint. Severely affected and dried shoots are cut out and destroyed.
• If the disease has spread greatly throughout the bush, then it is better to dig up such a rose and burn it.

Prevention of stem cancer

• Treating rose bushes with a 3% solution of copper sulfate before covering for the winter and in the spring after removing the cover. A 1% Bordeaux mixture is also suitable for spraying.

Viral diseases of roses

Viral infections appear on foliage in the form of a variety of alternating light and dark green spots various shapes. This may be a mosaic pattern or ring spotting. The leaves and buds are deformed, the rose is stunted and blooms poorly.

There are several types of rose viral diseases with similar symptoms. Only a specialist can determine which virus has infected the plant.

Viral wilt

With viral wilting, the bush stops developing, the leaves become narrow, thread-like and dry out. Gradually the bush dies.

What does a diseased bush look like?

The mosaic virus infected the rose bush.

Small yellowish or light green spots appear on the leaves, which spread throughout the entire leaf blade, forming a mosaic pattern. Depending on the type of virus, the spots can be of different shapes and spread to young shoots and buds. Deformation of leaves and petals occurs. The bushes are stunted and bloom poorly.

Doesn't exist today effective drugs for the treatment of viral diseases. You can stop the development of the disease by cutting off diseased leaves and sections of stems. Rose bushes that are severely affected by the virus must be removed from the garden so that the disease does not spread to other plants.

Prevention of viral diseases

• Timely identification and destruction of infected bushes.
• Fighting aphids, nematodes, thrips and other sucking insects that carry diseases.
• Disinfection garden tools after working with diseased plants. For processing, you can use alcohol, 1% solution of potassium permanganate.

Continuation of the topic: