From time immemorial, such equipment as a vacuum cleaner has used fundamental parts such as a motor, a filter and a dust collector. Home helpers with bags are not suitable for cleaning rooms where renovations are underway or in your own workshop, because they are unable to retain fine dust, and the filters and dust collector quickly fail. Therefore, repair teams purchase expensive construction vacuum cleaners to deal with waste, and install them at enterprises. special installations with a cyclone for collecting and settling dust. And craftsmen can install a cyclone filter with their own hands, which can be used with a household vacuum cleaner, even with a paper bag.
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Air with dirt from the hose enters the cyclone body through the pipe cylindrical. The pipe is attached to the body along a tangent line, so the air flow forms something like a spiral. Centrifugal force carries debris and dust to the inner walls of the device, then they settle in the dust collector due to gravity. Air with tiny dust particles, resistant to centrifugal force, exits into another chamber onto the membrane to complete the cleaning and enters the receiving fan.
After cleaning the dirt from storage tank pour out, clean the membrane if necessary.
Therefore, you can put such a vacuum cleaner in a carpentry workshop to use homemade vacuum cleaner cyclone type for collecting sawdust at the end or during work.
Features, as well as pros and cons
So, unlike its counterparts equipped with bags, the cyclonic method of dust separation from a vacuum cleaner will have the following advantages:
- Constantly high operating power because the unit does not become clogged with debris.
- Ease of maintenance of a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone device, since homemade filter for a vacuum cleaner it is easy to clean, washable if desired, no need to buy additional bags.
- The engine of the device runs in optimal mode, without unnecessary stress, due to which it lasts longer due to the freedom of air movement in the dust collector.
- A do-it-yourself cyclone filter also has some disadvantages:
- It is difficult for a device with this type of filtration to collect hair, wool, and threads into the storage tank. They often end up on the membrane following the cyclone.
- The quality of cleaning depends on the suction power, so it is necessary to select a more powerful motor.
- The plastic parts of the unit accumulate static electricity, so its body can give a slightly unpleasant electric shock when touched.
Based on this, assembling a homemade vacuum cleaner for a home workshop or making a cyclone filter for a construction vacuum cleaner will be the best cost-effective choice.
How to make a cyclone with your own hands
Today the Internet offers many variations with detailed description how to make cyclone filters for a vacuum cleaner from scrap materials. In some cases, you will need certain machines and devices, but not everyone has them, so we offer you a simpler option.
Necessary materials from which you can make a cyclone:
- Plastic barrel for liquid (3-5 l.);
- Car filter in the shape of a cylinder;
- A sewer pipe with a diameter equal to the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose;
- Corrugated hose, diameter is similar;
- Thin steel, its trim and corners from brackets and fittings;
- Nuts, screws;
- Nylon stocking.
Collection process
- On the lid of the container with inside We install a bracket for the filter, cut from steel strips so that the filter fits tightly to the lid to prevent dirt from getting into the outlet pipe with air.
- On the other side of the lid, we hermetically install an outlet pipe for the purified air to exit from the cyclone into the vacuum cleaner. The factory filter must be left.
- We install a bumper made of galvanized sheet metal around the car filter, perhaps in the shape of a cone, so that it is shaken out less often. We put a stocking on top of the filter to protect it from light particles of debris.
- We insert the inlet pipe along a tangent line into the wall of the barrel with a slight slope towards the bottom in order to immediately set the required trajectory for the incoming air.
- Because plastic barrel It is not designed for heavy vacuum loads due to the thinness of the material; its walls can be reinforced with a steel strip to prevent collapse.
- Place the lid on the barrel.
The main thing when assembling a vacuum cleaner from a barrel is careful sealing in all places where pipes and screw connections are attached, since the slightest air leakage will reduce the vacuum effect, and the flow will form a low-quality vortex.
Very often when installation work with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. First of all, this is due to the processes of wall chasing.
You cannot use homemade household models for this task, otherwise you will ruin them on the very first day of work. Their dust containers will fill up very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself will overheat.
Only professional craftsmen who earn a daily living from this type of activity can afford to buy a construction equipment, which costs quite a lot of money. 
But what if you are not a builder and you need such a device only to complete the repair of electricians in your apartment? In this case, there is only one optimal solution - to make a construction vacuum cleaner yourself from an ordinary one. 
Moreover, in time for such an alteration, it will take you only a few minutes. And the materials that are required for this can be easily found in the pantry, or purchased in addition at the nearest plumbing store.
Let's take a closer look at two very similar methods, which nevertheless have design differences between themselves.
Homemade cyclone from a household vacuum cleaner
The first method has been presented on the Internet and on YouTube for quite some time. You can easily find many videos with similar homemade cyclones.
However, they cause quite legitimate questions and skepticism among professional builders. Therefore, you should immediately make a reservation that they are suitable for the most part for cleaning wood chips. 
But it is better not to work with cement dust with such devices. The second option is more tailored to it. 
The main “trick” that will allow you to easily suck in kilograms of garbage, wood, and metal filings and not worry about frequently changing filter bags is a homemade “separator”.
It will then need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:
A bucket of Shitrok putty is best suited here. It is harder to flatten it with a vacuum.
First of all, drill or carefully cut out the center of the bucket lid through hole under the phone. 
Mark the third hole closer to the edges of the cover, where the stiffener is. 
If you do not have a special crown, then first pierce the intended circle with an awl and carefully cut it with a stationery knife. 
The edges will be uneven, but they can be processed with a round file. 
Two sewer outlets are inserted into these holes. So that they hold securely and there is no additional air leakage, it is better to glue them.
To do this, first sand the edges of the tube with sandpaper or a file to create a rough surface. 
Do the same operation with the lid.
After this, insert the tube into the inside of the cap and apply a thick layer of glue with a hot-melt gun. 
Don't feel sorry for Clay. This will help create a good seal in these places and tightly close all the cracks. 
There is actually another option in which you can do without glue and fan pipes altogether. To do this, purchase rubber adapter couplings from Leroy Merlin.
They come in different diameters. Select according to the size of your hose. 
For example, a tube from a 35mm hose is tightly inserted into a 40/32 coupling. But in a 40mm pipe it will dangle. We'll have to reel in something and collective farm.
On the tube that is located on the edge of the lid, put sewer outlet 90 degrees. 
At this point, the separator design can be said to be almost ready. Install the lid with outlets on the bucket. 
The air intake hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the central hole. 
And the piece that you will use to collect all the debris and dust is stuck into the corner joint. 
It is desirable that the tubes contain sealing rings that match the size of the corrugated hoses of the vacuum cleaner.
This completes the entire assembly. You can plug in the vacuum cleaner and use it.
Here is a visual video of the inside of a bucket of a similar design. It clearly shows how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner.
The operating principle here is as follows. Coarse dust sucked into the container falls to the bottom of the container. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where the air is pumped out directly.
Three factors help in this matter:
- gravity
- friction
- centrifugal force
They then make the garbage rotate inside the bucket, pressing against its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the fine fraction goes directly into the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner. 
Typically, such a cyclone in factory designs has the shape of a cone, but cylindrical specimens also often cope well with this task. 
True, the higher the bucket, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct combination of the design of the container and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is a sign from Chinese cyclones correct selection hose diameter and unit power. 
In cylindrical buckets, the tangential air flow enters not through a curved side wall but through a flat cover. Assembling such a device is much easier.
Also, if you have several buckets, you can use them alternately. Just remove the lid from one and move it to the other. Moreover, this is even easier to do than in bulky cyclones. 
If you have a powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic bucket from under emulsion paint, it is better to use a metal tank of the same shape. Otherwise, the bucket will collapse and flatten it. 
The power regulator helps in this matter. If, of course, it is present in your model.
Why does the vacuum cleaner still fail?
With this method, all the fine dust will enter the vacuum cleaner bag, and more or less large fractions will simply settle and remain in the bucket. As do-it-yourselfers assure, more than 95% of construction waste settles in the separator and only 5% goes directly into the dust collector of a household vacuum cleaner.
However, the thing is that even this 5% can gradually kill the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even for industrial cyclones, the declared efficiency is rarely more than 90%, but what about home-made products, in which the aerodynamics are far from perfect. 
For 100% collection of the fine fraction, an electric precipitator or bubble column is needed.
By the way, some types of dust cause very strong static voltage. Be careful when working.
The longer you work with the unit without unplugging it, the higher the charge may be. Here, read the instructive commentary of one real user of such a homemade product. 
Therefore, on many cyclones, even factory-assembled ones, the flange is grounded.
Five percent of fine wood chips is certainly not dangerous for a household vacuum cleaner. What if it is fine cement dust during gating? 
When such particles get inside, they clog the filter tightly.
And this happens very quickly. The entire effectiveness of the “cyclone” drops by at least 2/3 within a matter of minutes.
The main problem is the dust bag. It is dense, and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for waste from plaster and concrete walls. 
What to do? Is it really impossible to do without a real construction device? During intensive work, only an expensive and professional tool really saves you.
What is the difference between a construction vacuum cleaner and a conventional vacuum cleaner
But for occasional work, this design could be tweaked and improved a bit. The idea belongs to Shayter Andrey.
Before we look at the second design option, ask yourself the question: “What is one of the main differences between household vacuum cleaners and construction vacuum cleaners?”
In domestic models, cooling occurs due to the intake air. 
That is, you vacuum the floor, the air sucks in the garbage. Next, it is filtered and cooled by the engine itself. After which the air is thrown out.
This is where the risk of engine damage comes from. Firstly, when the filter becomes clogged, engine cooling drops sharply.
Secondly, cement dust is 100% not retained in the dust collector, and some of it flies through the windings, along the way removing the varnish insulation like sandpaper. Such dispersed dust kills everything that rubs and rotates. 
Adding water to the bottom of the tank doesn't really help. Instead of dust, you will get a lot of dirt, the weight of the bucket, and the filters will still eventually become clogged.
In professional devices, the engine is cooled separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not so afraid of bags completely filled with garbage. 
Moreover, they also have automatic cleaning or shaking. 
In order to remake it wisely household model, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.
Working version of a construction vacuum cleaner from a household one
Main additional element here is a filter bag from nonwoven fabric. Instances from Karcher are very suitable - article number 2.863-006.0 
Actually, this filter is disposable. Your task is to make a reusable element out of it.
To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a little, slightly reducing the width (up to 22cm).
Next, this lower part needs to be closed with a special lid. You make it from two elements of a plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene pipe. 
Saw the tube lengthwise, with a slot width of approximately 5mm.
Apply them with the back side to the fabric at the bottom. 
Then thread the prepared tube through the slot. 
As a result, from a disposable you have a reusable filter bag. And much more bigger size than the one installed inside the household model. 
Next, you do the previously discussed steps to upgrade the bucket. Drill holes in the lid and insert rubber corrugated adapters into them. 
One will be for connecting the filter bag, the other for the hose. Choose the sizes according to the diameters of your devices.
Here you can do without fan pipes and corners. Next, place the plastic insert from the reusable filter onto the adapter. 
It remains to tightly close the lid on the bucket. The structure is ready to go.
Although it is similar, it differs from the first option above. After you turn on the unit and start sucking in the garbage, it is the home-made reusable dust collector that will collect all the muck and dirt in itself. 
Dust will not fly around as in the previous case. On the contrary, this bag will swell inside the bucket due to the air flow.
Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and fine fractions, which could be missed by the cyclone. 
However, do not forget about clogging the walls of the reusable filter and reducing the draft of the cooling air flow. In order not to burn the engine of a household vacuum cleaner, one more measure must be taken.
How not to burn a household vacuum cleaner
Most modern models there is a built-in safety valve. It indicates when the filters are already clogged and at this moment additional air flow opens.
True, this is already considered emergency. Your task is not to wait until this valve is triggered, but to use a slightly different trick.
Some devices have a draft regulator directly on the handle in the form of a hole that opens or closes. It should just be opened slightly for any type of work. 
If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional hole with a diameter of 12mm in the bucket lid itself.
Well, and most importantly, do not forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you modernize it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to record the start time and do not work longer than the prescribed period.
That is, just take breaks. At least to shake the homemade filter. And he just shakes himself with a bucket.
When the dust container is substantially full, open the lid of the bucket and with a slight movement pull the tube out of the guides at the bottom of the bag. 
It will open up and the debris with dust can be removed. After that, collect the entire structure back and work on. 
The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fillings. After that, cement dust in the fabric itself begins to strongly slow down the air flow.
You will either have to replace the filter with a new one, or not just shake it, but thoroughly clean it of any fine debris and continue working as if nothing had happened.
Keep your lungs healthy. If you're into woodworking, you know that a wood shop, no matter its size, needs a dust collector. Make a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands.
Many say that the heart of the workshop is hand saw, others say it's a table, a band saw, planer etc.
Whatever the heart is, it is certain that the lungs of the workshop are the dust collector.
Most pieces of wood you work with are heavy enough to fall to the floor. But wood dust and sawdust float in the air you breathe. These small particles easily enter your lungs and pose a serious health threat.
There are many ways to protect yourself. Dust masks (they're not cheap, but they work well), inexpensive paper respirators (not very safe, but better than nothing). You can install air filter on the ceiling (dust needs to pass through the level of your face first before getting into it, so this is good for cleaning up after work), and finally there are dust collectors, which can be complex or simple (if you can afford them, they very good to a certain extent).
No matter how good your dust collection system is, there is still dust floating in the air that has escaped the system, especially if you are sanding or cutting anything. You need something that is easy to use, portable, and powerful enough to remove dust from your tools. This is where a vacuum cleaner comes in handy.
The problem with store-bought vacuum cleaners is that if you connect them directly to the tool, the filters will clog within 10 minutes. They are also not easy to clean, even if you increase the waste collection capacity.
An alternative to this is to have an intermediate system between your tool and the vacuum cleaner, namely a cyclone.
The cyclonic dust bucket collects 99% of the dust that accumulates at the bottom, leaving the vacuum cleaner almost dust-free and clean.
My homemade vacuum cleaner filter is very inexpensive and effective. Construction vacuum cleaner cost me less than 2000 rubles and was easy to build over the weekend.
Step 1: Material List and Drawings
List of materials:
- 1 vacuum cleaner (1600W+)
- 1 plastic bucket 20 liters
- 1 metal (tin) bucket 20 liters
- 1 plastic funnel
- 1 PVC pipe about 30 cm long
- 2 pipe couplings
- 1 x 90 degree water fitting
- 4 nuts, bolts and washers
- 8 screws
- fast acting epoxy glue
- some kind of primer
- 2 pieces of plywood 0X30X18 mm
Blueprints:
Above is the drawing that guided me when designing the cyclone attachment for the vacuum cleaner.
Step 2: Cyclone System
The cyclone system consists of two stages.
The first step is a plastic bucket with top cover, fittings and funnel. The second stage is a metal bucket that is attached under the plastic one and collects dust and waste.
The two stages are connected to each other using standard clamps that come with the buckets.
Step 3: First Stage - Top Cover
Before purchasing any fittings, be sure to check the end of your vacuum cleaner's flexible hose and buy the correct diameter (not all vacuum cleaners have the same diameter hoses and ends).
Take the lid of the top plastic bucket and make a hole in the center the same diameter as your pipe (this is where the long pipe will sit) and one hole in the side of the lid (this is where the elbow fitting will sit).
Insert the coupling into the first hole and seal it - there will be a long pipe here (use PVC glue or epoxy). Make sure the pipe is perpendicular to the cover.
You can cut a long pipe if necessary, and after the first test, if there is dust in the vacuum cleaner, you will need to drive it deeper, up to the wooden ring.
Insert the coupling into the side hole and glue. Once the glue has dried, insert a 90-degree elbow fitting into the glue so that the fitting is parallel to the sides of the plastic bucket. This will give a cyclonic circular action on the incoming dust. Make sure there are no leaks. If you feel holes, fill them with epoxy glue or silicone.
Additional modification:
If plastic cover too soft like mine, you can add two circles of chipboard with a diameter of about 22 cm and a thickness of 6 mm for support. The wooden circles are located under the cover, and I secured them with 4 bolts.
This gives me added strength and an advantage if I want to add two more 90 degree elbow fittings and insert longer PVC pipes to minimize the use of flexible hoses and improve air flow and pressure drop.
Step 4: First Stage - Funnel
Show 4 more images
To insert the funnel, you will need to cut a wooden disk/ring from one of the pieces of wood. The wooden ring should fit into the plastic bucket (the inner disk that remains after cutting the ring is used later).
The outside diameter of the disc should be such that the disc fits snugly into the bucket about halfway, and the inside diameter should be wide enough to allow the funnel to sit in the ring. I cut the ring using an inverted jigsaw on my workbench and then trimmed it to a perfect circle using grinder. Insert the ring into the bucket to test.
Do not do the following things until the second stage is completed!
After the second step, I will place the wooden ring inside the plastic bucket (about halfway up or a little deeper) so that the end of the funnel will protrude from the hole of the bucket. I screwed the wooden ring on the outside with 8 self-tapping screws.
In my version, I trimmed the funnel a little so that its end hole would not be too narrow (this makes it easier for dust to go down) about 4 cm in diameter, and then glued a pipe to secure the element.
Now it gets more complicated. I glued the edge of the funnel to the edge of the wooden ring and then added
primer to tilt towards the center of the funnel for better downward movement of dust. Since I couldn't find a good primer, I used a polyester primer that would stick to both wood and plastic. Other than the ugly color (black) and diluted dirt (use gloves), it works fine.
Note. If I do this again, I will use less hardener than the intended value so that I have more time to shape and smooth the surface, even if it takes longer to dry.
This polyester filler gave me a surface that I covered with a softer, white layer. Using a damp cloth, I was able to smooth the surface so that the dust flowed into the funnel.
One more idea. I am informed that finding a large enough crater is not easy. There is a solution here. You can go to any auto accessory store and buy an outdoor/road cone and then cut it to size for your bucket. This will work too.
Step 5: Second Stage - Bottom Bucket and Top Metal Lid
The plastic bucket should fit tightly over the metal one. Here's how we'll do it. We will need 2 pieces of circular plywood or chipboard to support and connect the plastic bucket to the metal bucket lid.
We cut two disks about 4/5 the diameter of the bottom of the plastic bucket (we already have one piece left over from cutting out the funnel ring, so we only need to cut one).
Precision is not very important here, so you can use a jigsaw or saber saw. I used a jigsaw.
We will place the first circle at the bottom of a plastic bucket, and the second under the lid of a metal one.
Since the two disks have the same hole in the center, we need to make the same holes in the bottom of the plastic bucket and in the lid of the metal one so that the funnel passes through them.
Press the first disc to the bottom of the plastic bucket, and the second on top of the metal bucket lid and tighten them with 4 bolts, nuts and washers. Now we can connect the two buckets together.
Step 6: Final Assembly and Test Run
Now I can place the plastic bucket on top of the metal one and secure the buckets with a clamp. Insert the flexible hose of the vacuum cleaner into the central connecting pipe, and the second hose (I found it from an old vacuum cleaner) into the side pipe, turn on the vacuum cleaner and let the cyclone work. All dust falls into a metal bucket, leaving the vacuum cleaner clean.
Be sure to wear a mask when cleaning the bottom bucket. You don't need to breathe this dust.
Step 7: Addition
Moving a cyclone and vacuum cleaner around the workshop is not an easy task, so I think a trolley on casters might be practical and useful.
The design of the cart is very simple and can only be built using plywood. There are no dimensions here because you will have to adjust the dimensions to suit your dust collector.
Let me just say that the base is made of two sheets of plywood, the top of which has a hole in which the bucket sits.
You can also add Velcro to secure the vacuum cleaner and make two wooden handles on a plastic bucket so that it does not fall when emptying the lower bucket.
Today we will tell you about the cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that you have to deal with in woodworking is dust removal. Industrial equipment quite expensive, so we will make a cyclone with our own hands - it's completely simple.
What is a cyclone and why is it needed
In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to have the opportunity to clean and liquid waste.
The cyclone filter uses an aerodynamic swirl to bind the specks different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.
These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. The homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various kinds machine tools In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.
Difference between wet and dry cyclone
To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have a special shape and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Exhaust duct Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make it rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.
As already mentioned, cyclone filter Potentially capable of removing liquid waste. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.
Most washing vacuum cleaners introduce air into the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with minimum quantity It is not recommended to use such a scheme for alterations.
Made from scrap materials
The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.
The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes of the required diameter is to use homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.
The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, it is desirable that they be as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic scratch excellently in this way. homemade instrument, forming even edges with virtually no scoring.
The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. In advance, we draw your attention to the fact that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The knee is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is pre-applied under the side.
- WITH reverse side a rubber o-ring is pulled onto the socket with force. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.
The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the socket is located on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with wet cleaning in mind, you should extend the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.
The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.
How to adapt the device for machines and tools
To be able to draw in waste when working with hand and stationary tools, a system of adapters is required. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the nozzles for power tool dust bags. IN as a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped with vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.
With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust vents have a very different configuration, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:
- If the dust extraction of the machine is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a diameter of 50 mm to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
- For docking with a dust trap of home-made machines, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
- When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, use the convection flow created by the moving parts of the tool to greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
- Sometimes it is required to provide dust extraction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a cutter. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.
Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use
Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations in addition to the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.
The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or sanitary duct tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially with the o-ring.
The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop
To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly on the pipe, it is recommended to warm it up a little with a hair dryer or an indirect flame. gas burner. The latter is considered excellent option, because in this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.
A home vacuum cleaner is so commonplace in the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air– filter.
Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. However, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.
Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the dirtier the membrane, the worse the air flow through it.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.
He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal cyclone-type scorch and chip storage for quite a long time.
But no one thought of applying this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986, he registered a patent for the first cyclonic vacuum cleaner, called G-Force.
In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:
- Filter membrane. The most widespread and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
- Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air flow comes out. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to their high cost.
- Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the “cyclone” type. It is a compromise in cost and quality of cleaning compared to a membrane and water filter. Let's look at this model in more detail.
Operating principle of a cyclone
The illustration shows the processes occurring in the chamber of a cyclone-type filter.
Contaminated air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) twists into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.
Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning they exit into the receiving fan (7).
The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All dirt is simply poured out of the reservoir, and the vacuum cleaner is ready for use again.
Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive compared to membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a “cyclone” type filter with their own hands and connect it to the inlet of a regular vacuum cleaner.
