Do-it-yourself homemade potbelly stove. How to make a potbelly stove in the garage: we make a potbelly stove with our own hands correctly Do-it-yourself potbelly stove sizes

Heating technical rooms often turns into a real problem. Electricity is expensive, resulting in high heating costs. The best way is to use alternative sources energy. It can be firewood, coal, anthracite and much more.

for incineration solid fuel furnaces of various formats are used. One of them is a potbelly stove, characterized by extreme simplicity and cheapness.

In this review we will talk:

About the features of stoves-bourgeois;
About the materials needed for their assembly;
ABOUT step by step assembly potbelly stoves.

The modernization of the potbelly stove will also be considered, which will help increase its efficiency. The article will be interesting - read and get acquainted.

What is a potbelly stove

Potbelly stoves have been known among our compatriots for a very long time. They gained their popularity due to their extreme simplicity. A simple metal box with a door and a blower - and the simplest version of the stove is already ready. Given the ingenuity of our people, this world has seen a lot of the most diverse bourgeois women, delighting their owners with the coveted warmth. Let's see what you can assemble such a furnace from:

You can make a potbelly stove not only from a used safe or a battered gas cylinder, but simply by welding several sheets of durable metal together.

From an old gas cylinder - great option, it remains only to find the cylinder itself (you will get a horizontal or vertical furnace). Plump modifications are suitable here, since thin and high oxygen cylinders are too narrow;
From an old flask - someone probably had such a thing lying around in a garage or in a barn. There is already a door, it remains only to attach a chimney;
From an old barrel - homemade potbelly stoves are often made from them long burning, since the capacity of the barrels allows you to organize a large combustion chamber;
From the old safe - there is no need to throw the old man away, he will still serve.

Homemade potbelly stoves can also be made from sheet metal - for this you need to arm yourself with the right tools.

The device of the potbelly stove is extremely simple. Its basis is a certain capacious capacity, which plays the role of a combustion chamber. A pipe is removed from its upper or rear part, to which a chimney is attached. Two doors are organized in the front part (less often one) - fuel is loaded through the large one, and ash is removed through the small one. The internal space is divided by a metal grate, through which air is supplied - the ash formed during the combustion of firewood is removed through the waste.

The lower door simultaneously acts as a blower - by adjusting the degree of its opening, you control the intensity of the flame and the temperature in the room.

The dimensions of the potbelly stove can be very different, for example, 250x450x450 mm (WxDxH). A gas cylinder will make a larger and more efficient stove. The largest size will be at the stove from the barrel - after all, the internal volume of 150-200 liters can accommodate a huge amount of firewood. You can make a unit of almost any size - you don’t even have to bother too much with the exact observance of the dimensions indicated in the drawings.

Scope of bourgeoisie

These simple stoves are in great demand. For their work, they use firewood, coal, coke, wood waste and many other types of fuel, pleasing with their unpretentiousness and stability of work. Such a stove can be put in the garage - it will take up a minimum of space, but will provide the room with pleasant warmth. If there is a large supply of firewood or access to a cheap source of solid fuel, feel free to build a potbelly stove for long burning.

Wood is the simplest, cheapest and most widely available type of fuel for stoves. However, its consumption leaves much to be desired.

Mini potbelly stove can be used to heat a barn or home utility room where there is no heating. Agree, doing something in the winter here is not so comfortable - your teeth are chattering and your muscles are cramping. And with the stove, things immediately go smoothly - just have time to throw firewood so as not to freeze.

Long-burning potbelly stoves are useful not only for the garage, but also for any other premises, including residential ones - these can be temporary buildings, cottages, poultry houses, premises for keeping livestock and much more. In general, the scope of their application is huge. They are most in demand in towns and villages where there is no gas, but you need to somehow heat residential and non-residential buildings.

Advantages and disadvantages

Let's see how good home-made potbelly stoves made by craftsmen are:

Cheapness - most materials can be found for free or pay mere pennies for them;
Omnivorous - in fact, any solid fuel can burn in a potbelly stove;
Simple construction - if we look at the drawings, we will not find anything complicated in them;
Possibility of cooking - for this, potbelly stoves are equipped with cooking holes with lids;
Ease of use - subject to availability good chimney, the potbelly stove will work properly and not smoke on the entire room.

Unfortunately, heating with a potbelly stove has its drawbacks:

Low efficiency of the stove - without proper modernization, most of the heat will fly into the pipe;
Not the most solid appearance - although some craftsmen make real works of art out of bourgeois women;
High body temperature - fraught with burns;
High fuel consumption - in order for the stove to retain heat for a long time, without requiring the burning of tons of firewood, you will have to use tricks.

Despite some shortcomings, simple wood-burning stoves are still in demand among those who need warmth in the absence of a gas main.

How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove is made surprisingly quickly. First you need to decide what material it will be made of. Prepare the following tools:

A do-it-yourself potbelly stove can have the most intricate and artsy look. Show your imagination and you can get a unique thing, the second of which cannot be found in the world.

Bulgarian (angle grinder);
Welding machine;
Sandpaper and a file for processing the edges of metal;
Roulette for measuring sizes;
A powerful drill and suitable drill bits.

Let's see how to cook a potbelly stove with good heat dissipation for a summer house or a garage from an iron barrel.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a barrel

The easiest option is a potbelly stove from a large barrel (150-200 liters). It must be supplemented with grates, doors and a chimney. We begin the manufacture of the stove with the construction of a reliable non-combustible base. The best option is to lay out a small brickwork on which the barrel itself will stand. It will take several days to make it. After that, we proceed to further work.

In the front wall of our potbelly stove, a rectangular hole should be cut out for the loading door - use a metal jigsaw for this. The resulting piece of metal will act as our door - we attach a rotating lock, a handle and hinges to it. After that, we weld the second part of the loops to the barrel. Weld on the opposite side metal loop, in which constipation will fit.

At the bottom, you need to make an ash pan with another door. We allocate 10-15% of the total volume for it. We make the door in the manner described above, but it should be narrower - ash is raked out through it, it also serves as a blower. The optimal height is 40-50 mm. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of grate:

Cut off the top lid of the barrel;
We make a grate from segments of metal pipes (you should get a circle with long slots);
We weld the grate on the inside of the barrel, between the loading door and the ash pan door.

An old can or flask is also a great option. Using it, you free yourself from the need to weld the loading door.

We make a hole with a diameter of 100 mm in the lid, weld a small piece of pipe of the same diameter here - this will be a chimney hole. Next, weld the lid in place. Our potbelly stove is ready, it remains only to attach a chimney to it and you can start testing - we load firewood and try to kindle a flame.

We made with you a potbelly stove for long burning with our own hands - it is distinguished by an extremely large combustion chamber. Please note that you can make a cooking hole in the top cover - its diameter is 100-150 mm. Instead of a barrel, you can easily use a gas cylinder or a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. Remember that a potbelly stove from a pipe and a cylinder should have enough large diameter(at least 350-400 mm).

If necessary, you can make a similar potbelly stove in a horizontal version - you just need to slightly change its design. The rest of the assembly principle does not change.

The most efficient stove is a pyrolysis potbelly stove, which burns out the remains of combustible gases and emits a large number of heat compared to other ovens. No need to think that it will be a complex unit. Making a potbelly stove of this type will take you 20 minutes longer than a conventional unit without pyrolysis. Let's see how it is produced.

Unit welded from sheet metal with a thickness of 3 to 5 mm. The use of thin iron does not make much sense - the stove will turn out to be too thin, the heat will bend it, and in the end corrosion will finish it. So find steel that is thick enough so that you don't have to make a new stove every heating season.

We need to carve out seven pieces of metal (the thickness of the iron we have is 3 mm):

The main advantage of using sheet metal is that you can make a potbelly stove of any size and volume.

Two pieces measuring 450x450 mm are the side walls;
Four pieces measuring 450x250 mm are the front, back, top and bottom walls;
One piece measuring 440x240 mm - this will be the grate;
Two pieces measuring 244x350 mm - these will be internal partitions.

Thus, we will get a Loginov furnace, which has two internal partitions to increase efficiency. The same partitions will be responsible for pyrolysis.

In the front wall, we make two doors - in accordance with the instructions described above. Next, we weld a metal box without a top cover from all pieces. The next stage is the manufacture of the grate. To do this, we take a metal sheet and make many holes in it with a diameter of 10-15 mm. We fix the grate at a height of 80 mm from the bottom of the stove. Next, we weld the partitions, placing them at a height of 60 and 120 mm from the top cover.

We make a couple of small holes on the back surface and weld thin metal tubes (10-15 mm in diameter) into them. They should be located above the lower partition, going to the front wall. Their length is about 150 mm - secondary air will be sucked through them. The tubes are welded in before the second partition is fixed.

We prepare the top cover - we cut a hole in it with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney. If necessary, we supplement the wood-burning potbelly stove with a cooking hole. We weld the lid to our stove - everything is ready! Now we install the stove in a regular place and proceed to the tests. And yes, do not forget to attach legs to it or install it on a non-combustible base (for example, made of brick).

The height of the chimney for potbelly stoves is at least one meter. Optimal indicator– 1.5-2 meters from the horizontal outlet or top cover.

Modernization of stoves bourgeois

Now you know how to properly make a potbelly stove so that it can be used to heat a country house, garage or utility room. But we need the furnace to be efficient - to give maximum energy, burning a minimum of fuel. You will be surprised, but we have already considered one possible upgrade option - the pyrolysis unit presented above is an improved version. Pull out the partitions from there, and you will get the most banal potbelly stove.

The choice of pipes for the chimney should be approached with special attention - pipes that are too thin or poorly welded will quickly burn out, which will lead to smoke in the room.

Not only pyrolysis will help increase the efficiency of the stove. If you look at the drawing of the potbelly stove given above (from sheet metal), you will notice that the unit is closed on three sides with metal sheets. They are separated from the body by 50 mm and play a protective role. But that's not all - draft is formed in the internal space, a convection process occurs. Due to this, the efficiency of the potbelly stove increases.

The next stage of modernization is the creation of a chimney bend. The thing is that through it a huge amount of heat escapes into the atmosphere. By increasing the length of the chimney with horizontal section, we can use it to heat the room. The disadvantage of this approach is the deposition of soot in a horizontal area.

Few films about the war do not see a potbelly stove with flaming firewood, next to which the soldiers crowded and confer about something.

A simple shape in the form of a barrel, a knee brought out through the window and a couple of logs could quickly and efficiently heat even a large room. Why such a design was called a potbelly stove has remained in history, but even today this stove enjoys well-deserved popularity. Below we will analyze how to quickly make a potbelly stove with our own hands, show the most effective models, and also see photos and videos of the most successful stove models.

Advantages and disadvantages of using bourgeois

By analogy with any other heating devices, potbelly stoves also differ in certain pluses and minuses in work.

Of the positive properties, the following can be noted:

use of an unlimited range of solid fuels - firewood, sawdust, coal, wood chips, briquettes, pellets, peat, etc. In some cases, even recycled engine oil is used as fuel;
the possibility of making a potbelly stove with your own hands (see drawings below) practically from improvised materials;
the compact size of the oven, which allows it to be placed even in a small room;
there is no need to install a chimney, foundation and platform.

The negative features include:

the need to protect against falling out of the furnace of combustion objects - coals, sparks, etc.;
strong and rapid heating of the oven walls, which increases the risk of injury to others;
high fuel consumption - it is rational to use such a furnace only for short-term heating.

Varieties of furnace designs

Structurally, a potbelly stove is a rectangular or oval container equipped with a firebox with a door, an ash pan and a knee for smoke removal (similar to a chimney).

Preferred material - stainless steel or cast iron. Cast iron accepts any type of fuel, but at the same time it is fragile - a sharp cooling of the potbelly stove body is prohibited.

On an industrial scale, potbelly stoves are divided into the following categories:

oven with hob;
pyrolysis;
equipped with a casing that increases heat transfer.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that in most cases it is made in a handicraft way, using metal boxes, cans and other suitable containers for this. Next, we will tell and show how to make potbelly stoves with your own hands - drawings, photos, videos

Furnaces are divided into the following categories:

production material - cast iron, steel, brick;
functionality - with a hob, air heaters and gas generators;
type of fuel - solid and liquid.

classic oven

A sheet metal stove is a traditional option that fully reveals the characteristics of a potbelly stove.

Manufacturing process

Necessary materials:

metal sheet 4 mm;
fittings with a diameter of 10-15 mm for the grate;
corners;
pipe (diameter according to the scheme);
Bulgarian;
welding.

Video 1 An example of making a beautiful potbelly stove with your own hands

Cut out all the details of the body according to the drawing with a grinder from a sheet of metal

On the back and side walls, weld the corners with hot welding, on which you will then lay the grate and another sheet (in the drawing), which will have to hold the bricks.

Properly made grate will help increase the burn time of firewood. If it is not a solid steel sheet, but a type-setting grate made of reinforcement (up to 15 cm in diameter), the smoldering fuel itself will suck in the necessary air, due to burning it will be more complete and long-term.

Next, cut out 2 doors (for the firebox and ash pan) and put them on the hinges. On the upper part, cut a hole for the pipe, to which you weld a sleeve 200 mm high. After that, you weld or put on a pipe to the sleeve, the bending angle of which is 450.

The technology itself efficient potbelly stove was brought by V. Loginov. A metal sheet is used as a material, grates are reinforcement, hot welding is used to connect parts, and pneumoscissors or a grinder are used for cutting.

To increase heat transfer, it is necessary to provide a certain resistance coefficient of the chimney.

How to determine the diameter of the chimney

Calculate the volume of the combustion chamber (liter) in relation to the diameter of the pipe (mm) in a ratio of 1:2.7. For example, if the volume of the furnace is for furnace gas, a resistance must be created. From thermotechnical calculations, the volume of the combustion chamber in liters should be 2.7 times less in numerical terms than the diameter of the pipe in millimeters. For example, if the volume of the furnace is 70 liters, then the diameter of the pipe will be 182 mm.

Potbelly stove from a milk can

The second most popular material for making potbelly stoves after a metal sheet is a milk can. This is easily explained, since the airtight case is almost ready, and everything else can be done by hand in just a couple of hours.

Manufacturing process

Punch with a chisel or cut a crescent-shaped slit under the neck. This future blew
At the bottom of the can, cut a hole for the pipe, where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney will be put on.
It is better to make a grate in such a potbelly stove serpentine or type-setting from reinforcement, but at the same time it is necessary to carefully insert it into the can so that no additional holes are needed to be cut.
Dimensions potbelly stove from a can - in the drawing. The finished structure should be put on legs or made of bricks.

The longer the chimney, the lower the heat loss.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

An excellent material is a gas cylinder, which also fully ensures the tightness of the structure and its safe use.

Materials and tools:

spent gas cylinder;
metal sheet 4 mm;
pipe (diameter see above);
fittings for a set of gratings;
corners;
furnace door;
Bulgarian
welding.

To begin with, knock down the upper rim with a crane and cut a crescent-shaped hole under the blower on the bottom of the cylinder
Weld a pipe to the bottom of the cylinder, where the sleeve will be inserted and the chimney will be put on.
It is better to make a grate in such a potbelly stove made of fittings, in this case there will be a natural tightening of air and the fuel will burn out almost completely.
The dimensions of the potbelly stove from the cylinder are in the photo. The finished structure should be put on legs or made of bricks.

Video 2 An example of making a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder at home

The potbelly stove has gone through a variety of times and has proved that it is the most reliable and in a simple way heating small spaces. Despite the relative simplicity of the design, in its manufacture it is necessary to observe certain proportions in order to increase the burning time of the bookmark and, accordingly, the efficiency of the furnace.

Photos of the most effective bourgeois women according to readers

Photo 11 Oven type "Bubafonya"

Photo 12 Potbelly stove that works

A potbelly stove is a simple, but very efficient stove that can be used for heating country houses, garages, various buildings under construction and other places. It is an excellent temporary alternative to a full-fledged heating system. For the manufacture of potbelly stoves can be used various materials and hand tools.

Work on self-manufacturing potbelly stoves begins with the choice of the type of construction. The stove can have a round and rectangular section. Even an old can for water, milk and other liquids is suitable for assembling such a unit.

No expensive materials and hard-to-reach tools are required. Everything you need can be found in the barn or purchased at the hardware store.

Tools and materials for assembling a potbelly stove

Can.
Metal bar with a diameter of 0.6 mm.
Hammer.
Chisel.
Smoke exhaust pipe.
File.

To assemble some models of potbelly stoves, you will need a welding machine, but with a strong desire, everything can be done without the use of welding. Use advantage welding machine in that it can be used to provide higher reliability and rigidity of the structure. Recommendations for any specific sizes are not given, because. in the case of home-made potbelly stoves, everything is selected individually. When choosing the dimensions of additional units, be guided by the dimensions of the main tank.

First of all, you need to prepare a blower. Take your can and make a hole in it. It should be arranged just below the level of the neck. The sawn hole should be shaped into a regular rectangle. To do this, take a file and carefully sand the edges of the resulting connector.

The next hole must be prepared in the bottom of the can. It must be of such a diameter that in the future the pipe for the removal of combustion products enters it with sufficiently great effort. Determining the right size is extremely simple. Prepare markings at the location of the chimney. Mark a hole about 15-20 mm smaller than the diameter of the chimney. Next, you will need to arm yourself with a chisel and an ordinary hammer. With these simple tools, you can knock out the desired hole. In the end, it remains only to align it with a file.

Take the flue pipe and try to drive it into the prepared socket. If the chimney does not pass, you will have to work with a file for some more time. However, there is no need to be too zealous either. The chimney, as already noted, must enter the connector with sufficiently large efforts.

Take a metal rod with a diameter of 0.6 mm and try to bend it with a snake. In the future, you will use this snake as a grate. The prepared grate must be bent so that it can be properly positioned in the neck. In the end, it remains only to align the grate in the container, and the homemade stove will be ready.

Experts recommend installing such stoves on special stands. So it is more reliable and safe. In addition, the design of a home-made potbelly stove can be improved by installing a damper on the blower. It will allow you to adjust the intensity of traction, fuel consumption and heating level.

Thus, an elementary potbelly stove can be assembled even from an old can. No expensive special devices are required for such work. In the end, it remains only to place the oven in suitable place and connect the chimney. Homemade stove will provide high-quality room heating until you decide to install a more functional and productive system.

In this case, you can not do without a welding machine. The function of the basis of the structure will be performed by a segment of an ordinary metal pipe. Suitable even old barrel. The assembly will be carried out according to the scheme already familiar to you. Make a grate out of rods and fasten it to the body. The connection is made by welding . This potbelly stove will immediately have 2 dampers: a blower and a firebox. The model can be successfully used both for warming up various rooms, and for preparing a variety of food.

Potbelly stoves are valued precisely for the fact that they are able to warm up the room in the shortest possible time. But at the same time, there is The main disadvantage of such stoves is that after the combustion stops, they cool down as quickly as they heat up.. Metal practically does not accumulate heat.

To eliminate the above drawback, it is enough to overlay a home-made potbelly stove with refractory bricks. It accumulates heat well and continues to give it to the surrounding space for a long time after the completion of the stove. However, in order for the room to warm up, the stove will have to be heated longer than without such a brick fence. But this shortcoming is easily eliminated. It is enough just to make a few ventilation holes. Similar systems are quite often used in baths.

The brick screen is laid out at some distance from the walls of the unit. This is very important point. When choosing a suitable distance, you should focus on the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room and the dimensions of the furnace itself.

A potbelly stove, enclosed by a brick screen, will consume fuel as efficiently as possible and heat the room with high quality for a very long time.

The brick screen in question, as already noted, saves the furnace from its main drawback, which is extremely rapid cooling. You turn off the stove, and it will continue to give heat. However, the device of such a screen must be carried out taking into account a number of important rules and requirements.

Usually laying is carried out at a distance of about 15 cm from the body of the heating unit. Ventilation holes are created below and above the brick screen, thanks to which air can circulate inside the structure. As a result, it will be organized efficient heating with the most rational fuel consumption. Warm air will be able to go into a heated room, and the cold one entering in its place will cool the body of the stove, protecting its walls from excessive heating and burning out.

In some situations, masonry is performed without a gap between the stove body and the screen, or the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern. This is a completely wrong approach, it is better not to consider it at all. In the absence of a gap, the heating efficiency will noticeably decrease. Excess heat will simply evaporate into the chimney. The disadvantage of the "chessboard" masonry is that under such conditions, the air does not have the opportunity for normal circulation.

The total screen area is much smaller than in the case of solid masonry, which is why the stove will cool down very quickly. The total heat loss will be about 50%. The room, of course, will warm up quickly, but it will also cool down just as quickly. And is there any point in arranging such a screen at all in this case?

If you are very limited in money, you can not buy a new brick, but make a screen from broken and used products. This is not a fundamental point. But if the potbelly stove will be used as a permanent source of heat, it is better to allocate money and do everything in good faith.

An improved model of a potbelly stove

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove - a professionally drawn up scheme

If desired, you can somewhat improve the design of the potbelly stove and get a more productive and efficient heating unit. To do this, you only need to prepare a certain amount of sheet metal or several boxes of the same material. As a result, you will get a rectangular stove with a more aesthetic appearance.

The composition of the structure should include smoke circulation. They will significantly reduce the cost of materials for heating. It is also recommended to install control dampers. Thanks to them, you can change the thrust and control fuel consumption as much as possible.

Assembly of the structure is carried out in the same order as in the previous instructions. The differences are only in the shape of the case. Otherwise, the structure is assembled, equipped and used in a similar manner.

Thus, this unit received its historical name absolutely undeservedly. With proper assembly, no excessive fuel consumption is noted. Such a simple, but very effective stove began to be called “potbelly stove” simply because of an erroneous interpretation. However, in order for the unit to fully realize its potential, you need to choose the right place for its installation and adhere to certain recommendations during operation.

Recommendations for the placement and use of a homemade stove

The installation and use of the oven must be carried out in accordance with established and proven technology by many users. If the potbelly stove will be installed in wooden house, the minimum allowable distance between it and the nearest walls will be 100 cm. Safety measures require the mandatory arrangement of a chimney. It is impossible to build up sections, the pipe must be continuous and solid.

In certain situations, it is impossible to solve the problem of smoke removal without building pipes. Craftsmen found quite safe and effective solution this problem. The main thing is that the sections are mated as tightly as possible. The lower part is inserted into the upper section, and nothing else.

If the pipe will go outside through the wall, the place of contact between the objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier. Usually brick is used for its arrangement. The use of concrete should be avoided as it loses its strength with temperature changes.

If the pipe will go outside through the wall, the place of contact between objects must be equipped with a thermal barrier

If desired, the potbelly stove can be further ennobled with a variety of accessories, for example, devices for convenient storage fuel. In accordance with safety regulations, fuel must also be stored at a distance from the furnace body. This distance should be at least 1 m.

A properly assembled potbelly stove can heat a room in just 15-20 minutes. If desired, it can be decorated and turned into a wonderful addition to the interior of the room, making it a full-fledged constant source of heat. Stick to the advice given and you'll be fine.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself potbelly stove

Often homeowners prefer to assemble simple and useful homemade from assistants and waste materials instead of buying ready made. And the potbelly stove is one of such useful devices.

The main feature of the potbelly stove is that it heats up as quickly as it cools down. Therefore, the scope of its use is narrowed mainly to those rooms where it is necessary to provide fast heating, while the appearance of the device for the user is often completely unimportant.

A do-it-yourself stove-stove can be made, and if desired, upgraded to achieve more efficient heat transfer.

Have you also thought about assembling such a homemade product and do not know where to start? We will help you in the implementation of the task - the article describes the assembly order various options homemade ovens, drawings and diagrams are given.

Also discussed in detail are ways to improve a home-made potbelly stove, as a result of which the efficiency of the stove will become noticeably higher.

The choice of furnace design depends on what material is used as fuel. Each user himself determines the degree of its availability and economic feasibility.

Exactly combustible material, which has different temperature and the nature of combustion, dictates the principles for creating various modifications of the device.

The shape of the potbelly stove can be different, often it depends on the availability of suitable material. It can be an old can, a gas cylinder, a metal container - everything that is at hand. The main thing when choosing it is the thickness of the metal and the shape, which requires a minimum of alterations.

Image Gallery

In the lower part of the chamber, a grate is placed from the grate (it can be welded from reinforcement), under which ash will accumulate. You can also organize hob. It is easier to do this on a horizontally located cylinder by welding corners on it on both sides.

Well, if the barrel initially has legs. If not, you need to weld them or install the oven on bricks.

A potbelly stove from a gas cylinder can also be used as a basis for the further construction of a hot water column, as it is also called - "Titan". To do this, install on top of the stove stainless steel container through which the flue pipe passes.

The water in a wood-burning boiler heats up quickly, and little firewood is used - in the summer, one bookmark in a small firebox is enough.

A metal container with walls at least 3 mm thick is also suitable for a potbelly stove. The open top of the container is closed with a circle of metal sheet and brewed.

A hole is cut in the lid or wall for the chimney. Its diameter should be at least 100-150 mm. The top in such a potbelly stove will heat up so much that it will be possible to cook food and heat water on it.

We also have more detailed instructions with diagrams and drawings for manufacturing.

Features of a stove on sawdust

If there is no shortage of sawdust on the farm, then this type of fuel will fully justify its use. Such a potbelly stove does not require frequent loading - compacted sawdust inside does not burn, they slowly smolder, releasing thermal energy gradually and providing warmth for a long time.

Do-it-yourself potbelly stove on sawdust works on the principle of long burning. The slow combustion process allows you to save resources - heat does not fly out instantly into the chimney, heating the atmosphere

The basis of the furnace can serve metal barrel with an open top (if the container is airtight, then the top is cut off) or a pipe with a diameter of 300 to 600 mm.

Then a metal circle is cut out of a sheet, three or more millimeters thick, which should be smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel. In its middle, a hole with a diameter of 100 mm is cut under a cone for ramming sawdust.

The workpiece is welded to the walls of the barrel. With the help of this circle, the ash pan is fenced off - in it, with the help of chips or chips, ignition will be carried out. The height of the ash pan should be 100-200 mm.

A window is cut out below the welded circle, which will serve as a blower. Curtains are welded to the cut piece of metal, making a door for the same hole.

In the lid of the container make an exit to the chimney. The lid should fit tightly on the potbelly stove and be made of a sufficiently thick sheet, otherwise it will quickly burn out.

In order for the sawdust to burn gradually, it is necessary to provide a limited supply of oxygen to the fuel compartment. To do this, a cone-shaped core is inserted inside the firebox, sawdust is poured around it and rammed. The cone is carefully removed, scrolling, put a lid on the barrel

You can improve the same model by adding an additional cylinder. In this version, sawdust will be in the inner chamber, and the space between the two compartments will serve to burn gases and increase the heating area. In this embodiment, the exit of flue gases is arranged in the lower part of the stove.

How can a potbelly stove be improved?

An ordinary potbelly stove has a mass positive qualities but also has many significant drawbacks. She is unable to accumulate heat and heats the room while the fire is burning. Requires continuous fuel supply, on average - every 30-40 minutes.

In addition, a large amount of heat flies out through the chimney into the atmosphere without benefit. That is why work on improving the potbelly stove is carried out without stopping.

The standard design of the potbelly stove has many modernized designs that allow you to:

save fuel;
increase the efficiency of the stove;
increase heat capacity;
reduce the frequency of refueling.

The most common methods for improving the efficiency of a potbelly stove are the creation of a slow burning mode, a gas afterburning system, and the installation of heat-resistant lining of the inner walls.

You can also improve the quality indicators of the stove by increasing the heat transfer area with the help of welded pipes and an installed fan that will drive air flows through them.

The industrial model of such a potbelly stove is called "Buleryan", but besides it, there are many more different designs made in a handicraft way. We recommend to see detailed master class By homemade production.

You can increase the heat transfer time by lining the oven with brickwork. Such a potbelly stove will heat up more slowly, but it will also give off heat longer, maintaining the temperature in the room for some time after the fire has died out.

Are you interested in brickwork? We have on the site detailed guide by hand with diagrams and drawings.

Option # 1 - an oven with an increased fuel load

This model is designed to increase efficiency and continuous burning time. They take as a basis a horizontal rectangular potbelly stove on massive, stable legs and supplement it with a cassette from a deaf sealed cylinder. Such constructive additions significantly increase its efficiency.

A flange is welded to the cassette cylinder with a height of about 400 mm. After installing the cylinder in the burner hole, its edge should fall 5-10 mm below the stove. To make it convenient to install and remove the cylinder, handles are welded to its body.

The cylinder is filled with firewood in such a way that there is some space between them and when it is installed on the stove, they can immediately fall on burning coals

How does a potbelly stove work:

The lower part of the firewood, having fallen on the coals of the pre-ignition, flares up. In this case, the upper part, located in the cassette, will not burn due to a lack of oxygen, but will be dried under the action of hot smoke.
Under the weight of its own mass and as it burns, the firewood gradually sinks into the firebox.
The hot gas, which has been in the cylinder for some time, gives it heat, thereby increasing the heat transfer area in the room. In this case, the cylinder cover can serve as a cooking surface.
At the same time, the temperature of the outgoing smoke decreases, which means that the heat capacity and efficiency of the potbelly stove increase.

As a result of such modernization, the time interval between laying firewood increases and the efficiency of using the stove increases.

Option # 2 - long-burning potbelly stove "Bubafonya"

The low efficiency of an ordinary potbelly stove is a fact that has long been known and verified by many users.

One of the methods to increase it is to slow down the combustion process by limiting the flow of air into the combustion chamber. This improvement can be found in such stoves as "Bubafonya", "Filipina".

Use this model of a potbelly stove in non-residential premises - workshops, greenhouses, and other outbuildings. For work within 9-12 hours, one bookmark of small firewood, chips, sawdust is enough. In this model of the heating device, coarsely chopped and damp firewood cannot be used.

Potbelly stove can be created from any metal tank. Most often they use a barrel of fuels and lubricants or an old cylinder.

Production is carried out in the following sequence:

A combustion chamber is prepared from an accessible cylindrical container, in the upper part of which a hole is cut out for the chimney.
From metal (at least 10 mm in thickness), a circle is cut out, slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel.
A hole with a diameter of 100-150 mm is made in the center of the circle (the exact size depends on the diameter of the pipe used for the rod).
Ribs up to 50 mm high are welded onto one of the planes of the circle.
A pipe is welded to the center of the circle. Its length is calculated in such a way that the piston in the lowered state rises above the tank cover by approximately 100 mm. If you leave the pipe longer than necessary, draft will appear in it, it will begin to smoke.
Next, they construct a lid that will fit tightly on the barrel and cut a hole in it suitable for the piston pipe

You can further increase the efficiency of this model by organizing the flow of air into the furnace from the street. Thus, the heated air from the room will not fly out into the chimney.

Option # 3 - Filipina secondary afterburner

In the operation of the furnace, two methods were used to increase its efficiency, based on the principles of long-term combustion and pyrolysis. For its manufacture, you will need two gas cylinders, which will serve as chambers for primary and secondary combustion.

The sequence of steps for making a potbelly stove is as follows:

Cylinders are prepared for work by releasing the remaining gas from them and filling them with water. Without this procedure, it is absolutely impossible to cut them, otherwise the sparks that form during the operation of the grinder can provoke a gas explosion, some of which always remains in the cylinder.
In the first cylinder, which will serve as a chamber for the furnace and ash pan, the tap is removed and the top is cut off (it is used to make a door), a hole is cut out for installing a chimney.
Opposite the hole for the chimney, a pipe is welded, the other end of which should not rest against the cover of the second chamber, leaving free space for smoke to escape.
At the outlet of the pipe from the first cylinder, a metal ring is welded, it will serve as a support for installing the upper cylinder. Holes are drilled in it.
A metal ring is also welded to the second cylinder in the place where the top is cut, in which the places for the holes are marked, focusing on the holes already made in the first ring.
Before finally installing the second cylinder, an air supply pipe is inserted into it.
The upper chamber is put on the pipe, aligning the holes, a heat-resistant tourniquet is wound between the rings, and the connection is fixed with screws.
The chimney outlet is made from the bottom of the secondary afterburner chamber.

To obtain a stable structure, reliable legs are welded to the lower chamber. Install awning doors. It can be further improved by adding the ability to regulate the air entering the furnace.

And in a private country house, and own garage or a workshop, it is always a good idea to have a mobile or stationary potbelly stove. There are many on sale today. different models these heaters, but they can be expensive. Therefore, if you have experience working with metal, suitable material And the right tools, often stoves are made independently.

Which model of a wood-burning stove to choose with your own hands is up to the master to decide, since these homemade devices may have the most different kind and be made both from new material and from improvised metal objects.

Craftsmen have learned to adapt metal barrels with walls 2.5-3 mm thick, gas or oxygen cylinders, pipes of medium diameter, metal sheets and even disks from large automobile wheels for the manufacture of stoves-potbelly stoves.

Tools for making potbelly stoves

To work with metal, you will need special tools, some of which are available in almost every private house, while others will have to be bought or rented.

Angle grinder machine - "Bulgarian" and consumable in the form of cutting discs and grinding wheels.
A welding machine with a power of 200 A, as well as consumables - electrodes Ø 3 and 4 mm. In addition, you will definitely need a special mask and protective suit.
Metal brush.
Slag hammer.
Measuring tools - a folding ruler, a long metal ruler, tape measure, chalk or marker.
Pliers, hammer, chisel.
Drill with drills for metal of various diameters.

The choice of stove model most often depends on where it is planned to be located, since residential premises require a more aesthetic appearance of the heater and increased safety. Therefore, for installation in a house, an option made of metal sheets or a piece of medium-diameter pipe is best suited.

Suitable for any of existing models, but it is better to choose one that will help not only bring heat into the room, but also warm the water.

In order to make a final choice, it is worth considering different variants and learn about the manufacturing process.

Gas bottle stove

The installation of a potbelly stove from a cylinder can take place in different ways:

Using one cylinder with its vertical or horizontal arrangement;
Using two cylinders that are installed perpendicular to each other.

The second model will give more heat, since the heating area of the furnace is almost twice as large.

The cylinder itself has a neat appearance, you can make a hob on it, and if you give the finished stove a decent appearance, then it can be installed even in a living room.

Materials for manufacturing

For the manufacture of the first model will need one cylinder, for the second, respectively, two, but besides this for the manufacture of oven will need:

A steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm - a jumper between the firebox and the ash pan will be made from it, as well as hob.
If you want the stove to look more respectable, then you need to purchase a finished cast-iron door with a cast pattern for the firebox and ash pan.
If the appearance is not so important, then the door can be made from a fragment of metal cut from the cylinder itself or from a steel sheet.
Chimney pipe with a diameter of 90 — 100 mm.
Reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 — 15 mm or steel corner for the manufacture of the grate and legs. cast iron can also be purchased at a specialized store, or the bottom of a horizontally laid cylinder, in which holes are drilled, can serve as a grate.

Any of the models can be made not only from large cylinders, but also from small ones - this will depend on the place allotted for the furnace.

Gas cylinder preparation

Before starting work, the cylinder must be prepared, especially if the container is not new, but has already been in operation. In this case, a certain concentration of gas can always remain inside the cylinder, and if a spark occurs during its cutting, an explosion is possible. It is impossible to neglect measures for the appropriate preparation of the container, since do work it will be extremely dangerous.

Preparation is carried out in the following sequence:

First of all, the valve, which is located on top of the cylinder, is unscrewed, the hole in which it is installed is released. The container is left on the street or in the utility room for about a day, filling it to the top with water.
After this time, the water from the cylinder is drained. It must be taken into account that the liquid will have bad smell, so you need to merge it at a distance from housing.
The washed cylinder may well be used in operation, since the last remaining gas must be removed from it along with water.

Making a vertical furnace from a cylinder

The first step is to mark the prepared cylinder - it indicates the location of the firebox and ash pan. For this procedure, you will need a marker and a flexible measuring tape - thanks to her rather rigid, but elastic tape can be measured and drawn locations doors.

The next step is to carefully cut out the marked parts with the help of a grinder. Cut fragments are almost always used for further work.

Cutting openings for the firebox and ash pan doors

These elements are scalded, adding bumpers, hinges and a latch-handle, and they make excellent doors.
Next, the inner diameter of the cylinder is measured, and according to this measurement, a ring is rolled up from a thick wire, which will become the basis for welding the reinforcement. Thus, a grate for a furnace is made.
Then, the installation level of the grate is outlined. The grate should be located 30 ÷ 50 mm below the edge of the cut opening for the firebox door. The grate becomes, thus, the separator of the chamber of the ash pan and the firebox. Reinforcing bars are welded at a distance of 8 ÷ 10 mm from each other.

Hinges attached to the door are welded to one side of the firebox opening. It is very important to accurately align the installation site so that the doors close and open easily.

On the opposite side of the loops, a hook-loop for the valve, open from above, is fixed. It must securely keep the door closed while the oven is heating.
In the same way, the door is fixed on the ash pan.
It is recommended to cut off the upper part of the cylinder for welding on top of a round metal panel, which will play the role of a hob.
The chimney can be removed both through the top of the cylinder and through the rear or side wall of the furnace. If you choose the second option, then the top hob will be much larger, as it will be freed from the chimney.

If the balloon is upright, it will take much less space than the horizontal version, but you need to remember that any oven should be located at a distance of 200 mm from the wall, and the walls themselves must be covered with heat-resistant material.

Effective potbelly stove from two gas cylinders

To make such a potbelly stove, you will need two cylinders, which, when heated, are able to heat the room much faster. In addition, if desired, it is quite possible to arrange a hot water tank in the vertical part of the furnace, if you install a hermetically sealed container inside, bring the tap out and cut in the pipes for supplying and extracting water.

The first step is to prepare the balloon, which will stand horizontally. The upper part is cut off from it, so that it turns out round hole with a diameter of about 30 - 35 mm less than the inner diameter of the cylinder.

In the bottom part of the future furnace, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled in several lines, which in this case will serve as a kind of grate.

A metal box is welded under this “grate” - this will ash pan-blower. It is then necessary to install a tightly closing door on it, which prevents coal and ash from falling out. As an air regulator she used this model will not.
Legs from corners or fittings are welded next to the ash pan.

A round hole is cut out on top of a horizontally located cylinder, from the side opposite the furnace door, on which the vertical part of the furnace will be installed.

A door is installed, which is best made from the head of another cylinder. A hole is cut out in the center, into which a branch pipe with a diameter of about 76 mm is welded. This branch pipe is equipped with a valve, with which you can regulate the flow of air into the furnace, and hence the intensity of burning firewood. Door hinges it is recommended to place it on top - under the influence of its gravity, the lid will securely close the combustion chamber window and minimize air suction.

The most difficult thing in preparing the upper, vertical part of the potbelly stove is the process of marking and cutting out a certain shape, which is ideal for putting on and welded to a horizontal body.

In this case, an additional heat exchange chamber is arranged in the vertical part of the furnace, i.e. the smoke, getting into this section, does not immediately go into the chimney, but lingers in the arranged chamber.

To do this, metal plates with holes are welded inside the vertical body at a certain distance, which can vary from 250 to 400 mm. Holes should be cut closer to the edge of the metal round piece. When installing them, the hole on the first jumper must be located on the opposite side from from versions on the second jumper and so on. The best option in this case, there will be installation of three similar jumpers located equidistant from each other.
The vertical assembly with the baffles already mounted is installed and welded from above to the horizontally mounted casing. A pipe for connection is welded onto the upper cylinder.

Video: potbelly stove of two gas cylinders

Potbelly stove from a cylinder installed horizontally

This version of the potbelly stove is made from a single cylinder, and the technology of doing work is in many ways similar to the option described above. Therefore, it is only worth considering difference of some elements.

Instead of a vertical assembly in the rear upper part of the cylinder, only a branch pipe is welded to connect the chimney pipe.

For furnace door a rectangular hole is cut out - it is quite possible to fit it in size to the finished cast-iron door. If it will be purchased in a store, then you should pay attention to the doors designed for blowing holes brick ovens- sometimes they are ideal for a potbelly stove from a cylinder.

You can make a door cut from a balloon rectangular part. It is well suited for the resulting hole in terms of the size of the sides, but in the middle of it there will be a hole from the valve. It will need to be welded with a patch cut from a metal sheet.
In both the previous and this version, a hob can be added. For this, for example, from a steel bar with a thickness of 5 — 8 mm, a rectangle is bent, which is welded onto the container, creating a small but fairly flat surface.
You can use two steel strips instead of wire, welded on both sides of the cylinder for its entire length.

Potbelly stove from a barrel

A potbelly stove made from a barrel is more voluminous and takes up much more space than a cylinder stove. That is why it is able to heat a room with a larger area. Such a stove can also be horizontal or vertical, but both the first and second options are used to heat not only utility and technical premises, but also housing.

To make this potbelly stove, you will need a metal barrel, a steel sheet and a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.

Vertical potbelly stove

The barrel is measured and marked on its surface. locations the doors of the blower and the firebox, as well as the place of the cut. It should pass below the edge of the firebox by 30 ÷ 50mm.
Then the barrel is cut into two parts, and each of them is first worked separately.
A round plate is cut out of a steel sheet, equal in diameter to the size of the barrel. It provides a hole for the passage of the chimney pipe.
A hole is also cut in the top of the barrel so that it can be aligned with the hole on the round piece that will become the hob.
The chimney branch pipe is welded into the hole in the barrel, and then from above, through the hole, a hob is threaded onto the pipe and placed, which is welded to the sides of the barrel. The air space created between them, which makes up the height of the side, will help to more long term keep the hob hot.
Further, a round metal part with holes cut in it - a grate is also welded to the underside of the upper part. Another option is to weld two semicircular brackets under the finished cast-iron grate. The photo clearly shows how these elements look and are located.
When the bottom and top panel of this part of the stove are ready, you can cut a hole for the firebox door according to the markings made earlier.
The cut out part is scalded around with metal strips, hinges and a handle with a vertical latch are fixed to the door.
Next, the hinges for the door and the hook for the valve are welded to the body. This process must be carried out very carefully, accurately calculating the distances for installation, since the door should open and close easily, and the valve should freely enter the holder arranged by the hook.
In the lower part of the barrel, an opening is cut for the ash pan. The door is being prepared and hung - in the same way as in the case of the combustion chamber.
After that, both parts are connected into a single structure by a welded seam.

Horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

The process of manufacturing a horizontal version of a potbelly stove from a barrel is carried out in almost the same way as from a cylinder.

In the upper plane, a window is marked and cut out, on which a door made from a cut piece of metal will be installed. Connections of the door with hinges and hinges with the body are made with the help of rivets.

The regular pressure relief hole in the barrel, 20 mm in diameter, is used as a blower. There is no separate door for the ash pan provided.
It is recommended to immediately make a stand to accommodate the future stove. It is made from scraps of pipes or a corner, so that the shelves ensure the stability of the barrel laid on them, without backlash.

The next step is the manufacture of a grate from a metal sheet 3-4 mm thick. First, the area is measured and, according to the data obtained, a panel of the required size is cut out, in which holes for air supply are drilled. The finished grate is laid on the bottom of the barrel in such a way that at the highest point, in the center, the distance between the grate and the inner surface of the barrel is about 70 mm. The grate is not fixed rigidly - it should be easily removed to clean the stove from accumulated ash.

A special connecting node is made for the chimney pipe in the rear upper part. After marking the desired diameter with a grinder, diametrical slots are cut at an angle of 15 º from one another - a total of 12 cuts will be obtained. The resulting "teeth" are bent up - the chimney pipe inserted then will be attached to them with rivets.

Video: the simplest horizontal potbelly stove from a barrel

Potbelly stove from rims

A potbelly stove can also be made from two disks from large wheels and a piece of large-diameter pipe - it must be selected for the diameter of the prepared disks. The height of the segment may vary depending on the preferences of the master and the stability of the structure, but are usually limited to 300 - 450 mm.

There is nothing complicated in the scheme and manufacturing process of this version of the potbelly stove, but it is more suitable for technical and utility rooms than for residential ones.

Are being prepared individual elements future stove - two disks, a pipe segment, a metal sheet and a chimney pipe.
All three parts are welded together into a single vertical structure. To facilitate the adjustment of the pipe diameter to the discs, it is permissible to cut off the outer edge from the latter along the circumference, on one side.

Further, an opening for the firebox is marked on the pipe and cut out with a grinder.
The cut-out part is scalded around the perimeter, a valve and hinges are installed on it, thereby obtaining the necessary door.
Then, you need to make a hole for the blower, otherwise the fire in the furnace simply will not burn. To do this, a window of 100–120 mm in width and height is cut out in the lower disk.

A hole for the chimney is cut from the back of the upper disk and a pipe is welded into it.
It is recommended to make a hob from a steel sheet with a thickness of 4 — 5 mm. It is tightly welded to the edge of the upper disk, thus becoming an additional heat exchanger.
The same is done with the bottom of the furnace in order to arrange a full-fledged ash pan and increase the safety of operation of the potbelly stove.

In fact, such a potbelly stove is, rather, a fire fenced with metal, and is neither economical nor easy to use. However, for garage needs and subject to free source materials, this is a completely acceptable option.

Video: an example of an effective potbelly stove made of rims

Potbelly stove "Gnome"

One of the most popular of all homemade bourgeois is compact. It looks neat and can be designed for installation in any room. This potbelly stove is well suited in size for small country houses, since it does not take up much space and is indispensable assistant in cooking and heating rooms.

One of the most common models is the potbelly stove "Gnome"

A similar model of a potbelly stove can be equipped with internal partitions - plates, then it will receive the properties of additional heat transfer, or you can make the most common case with division into a firebox and an ash pan.

The first version of the stove will keep the heat in the room for a long time, and this is very important if summer residents live outside the city from early spring to late autumn, when the nights are cold.

In order to make such a potbelly stove, you need to purchase a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 — 4 mm, flue pipe, angle 40 × 40 or 50 × 50 mm. For the burner, the lid can be made independently or bought ready-made.

Relying on drawing, on metal sheets draw details potbelly stoves: panels all walls, a grate and two plates for fixing them inside the structure.
Rectangular holes are cut in the front panel for the firebox and blower. The cut pieces of metal are used to make doors. They are scalded with a corner and valves and hinged hinges are immediately fixed on them. Then, the doors are attached to the front panel.
On the same panel, only from its inner side at a distance of 150 ÷ 160 mm from the top, one of the plates is welded, which will regulate the output of heated air. The plates must be 80 ÷ 100 mm shorter than the length of the side walls of the housing.
After that, on the back wall, at a distance of 70 — 80 mm from the top, the second plate is welded. In combination, these two plates form a zigzag labyrinth for smoke during the combustion of the furnace. Thanks to this, each of the corners of the potbelly stove body will warm up.
Two holes are cut in the hob - for the burner and for the chimney.
Legs made of thick reinforcement or a corner are welded to the bottom wall of the body. You can choose a frame option from a corner, which includes legs and a base for fixing the bottom and lower edges of the side panels on it.
Before welding the side parts to the frame or to the bottom panel, it is necessary to mark and weld the corners on them for the entire length of the panel, they must be welded at the same level, since their role is to serve as brackets for laying the grate.
In the panel prepared for the grate, holes with a diameter of 12 ÷ 15 mm are drilled in a checkerboard pattern, at a distance of 30 ÷ 40 mm from each other. Another option for a grate can be a grate welded from reinforcing bars. The possibility of purchasing a finished cast-iron grate should not be discounted.
Installation and welding of all walls of the potbelly stove are carried out. The main thing is to achieve complete tightness of the welds, so sometimes it becomes useful to install a 30 × 30 mm metal corner outside. This will weigh it down a little general design, but will give it additional strength and reliability.
welded on top cover with chimney and hob.
To make the oven look respectable, you need to clean all the welds and cover its surface with heat-resistant paint.

It makes sense to additionally install a screen on the side and back surfaces, which will increase the safety of the operation of the furnace and create a powerful convection flow of hot air, which significantly speeds up the heating of the room. The screen panels are mounted on racks in such a way that they are spaced from the stove body at a distance of 30 to 50 mm.

Video: a master class on making a potbelly stove from a steel sheet

What to consider when installing a potbelly stove

A self-made one will bring warmth and comfort to a house or outbuildings, without causing problems, only if safety regulations are observed during its installation.

The surface on which the oven is to be installed must be rigid and fire resistant. This can be, for example, brickwork or ceramic tiles. You can also use sheet of asbestos the top is covered with a metal sheet.
Around the stove, heat-resistant drywall or asbestos sheets are installed on the walls. Also suitable for wall cladding. ceramic tiles or brick.
It is forbidden to place combustible materials and compositions near the furnace, not far from the furnace.
The chimney must also be insulated from combustible surfaces when passing through a wall or attic floor.
It is very important for safety to equip a reliable ventilation system so that carbon monoxide cannot accumulate in the room.
In order for the furnace to work for a long time and efficiently, only high-quality material must be chosen for its manufacture.
Before installing the potbelly stove on her permanent place be sure to conduct street tests, paying Special attention on the quality of welds and the accuracy of fitting all parts.