A small country house, garage or workshop can be heated using a small compact metal furnace, called a potbelly stove. It can be made from an old one steel pipe, a gas cylinder, a barrel and even an old flask, and weld it from sheets of metal. The most important thing is that the metal used to make such a furnace is not too thin.
Potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder, an old flask, a barrel and a stove running on waste fuel
Materials and tools
To create a potbelly stove you will need:metal 3±0.5 mm thick: more thin sheets they will quickly burn out, in addition, under the influence of high temperature they can lead, and the oven will become shapeless; thick-walled metal will take a very long time to warm up;
chimney pipe;
rods 16 mm;
a sheet of metal with a thickness of 0.3 mm for constructing a box for collecting ash;
tape measure, ruler, chalk;
welding machine 140-200A;
grinder for cutting metal; for doing round holes more convenient to use cutting torch;
metal brush for cleaning welding areas;
emery wheel for adjusting doors;
drill and drill bits.
Schemes of potbelly stoves
The main advantage of a rectangular stove, in contrast to oval products made from pipes or gas cylinders, consists in a larger area of the heated surface, so its efficiency will be much greater. Optimal size for potbelly stove 800x450x450 mm. A stove of this size will not take up much space and will easily fit even in a small room.
The simplest design is the “Gnome” stove, which consists of a box with a pipe welded to it
An important difference Loginov ovens is the presence of two plates ( reflectors) in the upper part of the combustion chamber. Because gas path at the same time, the heat transfer of such a potbelly stove increases, significantly higher than that of a conventional metal stove.
Advice. If you need to reduce the size of the Loginov oven, then it is advisable to change only its width. If the length and height of the structure changes, its efficiency may decrease significantly.
Detailed diagram of Loginov's potbelly stove
The main stages of making a potbelly stove
1. All the details are marked on a sheet of metal: 6 steel rectangles for the walls of the oven, 1 rectangle for creating a smoke reflector, plates for the grate and latch for the door.2. Cut sheet metal can be found at any metal depot. The guillotine, unlike the grinder, allows you to cut (chop) it more accurately. In this case, there will be no need to straighten the sheets.
3. The furnace body is made in the form of a rectangle. Their sides are joined together at an angle of 90° and welded together.
Welding the box
4. To avoid mistakes, the furnace box is first only tacked by welding in several places, and only then, after checking its horizontal and vertical positions, its seams are welded.
Important! All connections in the body are thoroughly welded; for checking seams To ensure tightness, you can coat the joints with chalk or kerosene.
5. Welding seams are cleaned with a wire brush.
6. The internal space of the potbelly stove is divided into three parts: the firebox, the smoke circulation chamber and the ash pan. To separate the firebox from the ash pan, a grate is laid between them, on which the fuel will be placed. To do this, at a height of 10-15 cm from the bottom of the stove, welded on the sides and on the back of the box corners 5x5 cm, on which the grille will be located.
Advice. It is better to make the grate from 2-3 detachable parts. Otherwise, when replacing a burnt grate, it will be difficult to remove it from the firebox.
7. The grating is welded from thick steel rods or strips 30 mm wide. They are attached to 2 stiffeners - rods with a diameter of 20 mm. Since the grates burn out over time, it is better to make such a grate removable.
Manufacturing of grate
8. At a distance of 15 cm from the top of the box, two strong rods are welded on which to place one or two removable reflectors– thick-walled sheets of metal that will delay the flow of hot gases and send them for afterburning. However, they should not completely block the oven. To allow hot smoke to enter the chimney, an indent of about 8 cm is made from the front (for the first sheet) and back of the stove.
Scheme of the passage of gases into the simplest potbelly stove and ovens with a reflector installed
Pipe hole
10. The front part of the stove with holes cut in it for the firebox doors and ash pan is welded last.
11. The size of the firebox door must be sufficient to allow fuel to be added and grates to be changed without effort. The hole for the ash pan is made a little smaller.
12. The hinges are welded first to the door, and then to the body of the potbelly stove. They can be bought ready-made or welded from two tubes of different diameters. Door handles can be made from a strip of metal or rod.
Welding the door
Important! When attaching the doors, you should fit them to the body as tight as possible; To do this, they are straightened (leveled) and cleaned with an emery wheel. The wedge latches that close the doors are fitted to the body as tightly as possible.
13. You can cook food or heat water on such a stove. To do this, a hole of the required diameter is cut in the upper part of the box. Stove burner, which will be inserted into this hole, can be purchased at any hardware store.
14. Design for ease of use installed on legs or a welded pipe stand.
15. The chimney pipe is connected to the stove using a sleeve.
16. For inserting a gate valve To regulate the smoke output, two holes are drilled in the pipe. A metal rod is inserted into the holes and bent at 90°. A metal “penny” is attached to it in the center of the pipe - a gate, the diameter of which should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe itself by 3-4 mm.
Gate valve for adjusting smoke output
Chimney device
To prevent precious heat from escaping through the pipe too quickly, it must have special design. Such a device has two main parts: vertical height from 1.2 m, installed at an angle of 90° above the stove and an inclined part called hog, 2.5-4.5 m or more long, in which the smoke burns out. It is the hog that provides up to 1/4 of the heat of the entire oven.
Chimney Hogs
A tall person can touch a heated pipe, so the hog must have protective cover in the form of a grid. To avoid burns, the distance from the floor to this pipe should be 2.2 m. The vertical part of the pipe coming from the stove is additionally wrapped with thermal insulation.
Important! The pipe should be located away from the plastered walls at a distance of 1.2 m. Distance from wooden structures– 1.5 m.
Advice. Laying pipes through a wooden ceiling and roof is a rather labor-intensive process. It is much easier to bring it out through a hole in the wall or window.
Exhausting smoke through the window
Rules for safe installation of a metal stove
A potbelly stove heats up much hotter than a brick stove, so all flammable objects should be kept at a sufficient distance from the stove. If the floor in the room is wooden, it is installed only on bricks or metal sheets. The metal, in turn, is laid on an asbestos sheet with its removal 35 cm or more from the edges of the stove. In the front part in front of the firebox it should protrude by 5.5 cm. Asbestos can be replaced with felt impregnated with clay. You can also install such a screen to reflect heat on concrete.Important! A working oven requires supervision. You should not leave the room where the potbelly stove is heated for a long time.
Installing a potbelly stove on a brick base
We increase the efficiency of the furnace
A potbelly stove can heat a room in literally a matter of minutes. Moreover, you can throw whatever comes to hand into the firebox: since it does not have an extensive network of chimneys, and the smoke in it comes out “directly,” you don’t have to worry about them getting clogged.But if a conventional heating stove installed in premises for permanent residence, has an extensive network of chimneys that retain heat; in a potbelly stove it goes directly into the pipe, so its efficiency is not too high. That is why it is too “gluttonous” and requires a lot of fuel.
To reduce fuel consumption, you can use the following tips from experienced stove makers:
door to the firebox and vent in such an oven must be as airtight as possible; otherwise, the air supply to the potbelly stove will increase, and the fuel will burn out too quickly;
to regulate the output of warm smoke in the chimney It is advisable to provide a damper;
next to the stove it is possible to provide side metal screens at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stove, in which case it will heat the room not only through heat radiation, but also through convection (circulation warm air);
a potbelly stove, “clad” in a metal casing, will help retain heat much longer;
Potbelly stove in casing
Round furnace with afterburner and casing with heat gun
To retain heat in the room, bends should be built up in the pipe; however, soot will be retained in them, so it is advisable to create a collapsible structure;
the pipe can also be given a stepped shape: arrange the elbows in stages, making a 30° turn with each step; in this case, each of the elbows must be securely attached to the wall with rods;
Stove with chimney elbows
chimney capacity should be less than the productivity of the furnace itself, in which case hot gases will not go into the pipe immediately; its diameter should be only 2.7 times larger than the volume of the firebox, for example, with a firebox volume of 40 l, the diameter should be 110 mm;
you can increase the efficiency of the furnace using blowing the chimney with a fan– this will turn the stove into a kind of smoke cannon;
to reduce air circulation firewood in the stove should fit as tightly as possible; if it is heated with coal, the resulting ash should be stirred up as little as possible;
To regulate the air flow, the door to the ash pit can be made adjustable by equipping it with vertically located slots and valve, which will cover these gaps;
to increase the heating area, it can be finned, that is, welded to its body perpendicular to the stove metal strips;
if you put steam on the stove buckets or metal box with sand, then they will accumulate heat and store it even after the stove goes out; sand backfill or heat accumulator made of stones can also be sewn inside the metal body of the stove;
Scheme of a potbelly stove with sand backfill, the stove is made of a pipe with a diameter of 500 mm, its length is 650 mm
Bake, lined with 1-2 layers of brick, will retain heat much longer;
Brick screen
The volume of the oven also matters: the larger area of its walls, the more heat they will release into the room;
bricks or metal sheet, on which the stove is installed, will help not only protect the room from fire, but also retain heat.
In Russia, then the USSR, potbelly stoves were used where there was no centralized heating: in front-line dugouts and dugouts of the Great Patriotic War, in government institutions of the same time, in heated cars. Look at the photo of a potbelly stove made by yourself on the website.
Who are the authors of homemade products?
Many Russians are sure that this is only a simple Russian invention. And a few are wrong. In the USA, the same homemade products have been used for centuries, called “fat bellies”, in Japan - “daruma”.
The revival of potbelly stoves occurred in Russia in the second half of the 20th century due to the massive appearance of garages and garden plots, where they were the only means of heating thin-walled buildings.
After these mini-ovens were improved, they were also used for cooking: a pot or frying pan was placed on a stove attached on top.
Until they were replaced by a centralized supply of methane, gas-cylinder stoves or wood-burning brick stoves. They were also useful in the crisis years of the 90s due to interruptions in gas and other types of fuel. It’s good that at least there was plenty of firewood.
What is so attractive about a potbelly stove?
Its main feature is its simplicity of design. Even with many additions to it, the principle of operation of a metal stove remains the same: everything that is at hand burns and warms the summer residents.
Although in this case half of the thermal energy evaporates through the direct-flow pipe. But no one writes off even a heating source that has rusted over time as scrap.
Such a temporary stove can be easily made in a day or two. But first, make your own drawings of the potbelly stove. Much of what is stored in the closets of rural houses and dachas is used. These are milk and water metal (not duralumin) cans, diesel fuel barrels, vegetable oils, pipes, boxes, corners.
Nothing expensive, including tools - in villages every owner has them at hand. High-quality assembly using gas or electric welding.
But neighbors who have units will help with this. Welding machines provide greater reliability and rigidity of the assembly. How to make a potbelly stove with your own hands, step-by-step instruction below.
Making a potbelly stove from a steel can
Stock up on a hardened chisel, a hammer, a chimney, a piece of rod with a diameter of 0.6 - 1.0 cm. Prepare an electric drill with a drill one centimeter in diameter. If you have an angle grinder, you will speed up the assembly twice as much.
In one part of the cover, at the very bottom, drill 5 - 7 holes for future traction. Bend a long rod like a snake and with at least four legs. These will be the grates when you insert them into the can.
Straighten the snake inside so that it lies horizontally and firmly just above the holes. Wood will burn on this “grill”, and good air draft will flow through the holes and through the chimney. It will be a combustion catalyst.
For the chimney, use a piece of water pipe, even a used one, with a diameter of 7-8 inches. Near the bottom or at the very bottom, strictly perpendicular to the grates, cut a circle with a chisel or use a grinder.
Insert a pipe a few centimeters into it, and secure it firmly from the outside with a clamp on the bolts or weld it to the can. The can-stove is designed for a horizontal position.
Weld the legs to it and place it where the stove will heat the house or garage. This is a very flammable device, so place it on a metal sheet and at least half a meter away from wooden structures.
The disadvantage of the stove: you can’t even heat a kettle on it – there’s nothing to put it on. And yet it will be an effective potbelly stove with your own hands, and read about the improvements below.
Barrel stove
It will correct the situation, and on this potbelly stove you can even cook borscht and fry cutlets. Not only an old barrel will do, but it’s better if it’s a discarded 50-liter gas cylinder.
Its walls are thicker, they will heat up a little longer, but they will also retain heat more. This is an ideal sauna stove. And if you cover it with sea or river pebbles or other strong stones, it will be easy to raise steam in the room.
It will stand vertically. There will also be enough space for the blower, and you can put a lot of firewood in the firebox above it. Exhaust pipe You can make it not straight, but with knees for greater transfer of thermal energy in the steam room.
If a potbelly stove is needed for a country house, then weld a metal platform on top, and you will cook food and tea on it.
Preserving heat in a potbelly stove
To do this, it is necessary to cover two thirds of its parts with refractory bricks, placing them on horizontal ribs, leaving free access to the firebox and ash pit. This will be a heat shield that retains the generated energy much longer. Holes must be drilled in the bricks for better heat transfer.
Second option: potbelly stove plus water heater. Scald the gas cylinder from which the stove is made with sheet steel at least three millimeters thick.
So that the resulting container can hold at least 30 liters of water. Weld water inlet and outlet pipes to it, connect pipelines for heating the next room. For better convection, connect a small circulation pump.
Propane stove
The ideal stove - gas stove, made with your own hands. It does not need a chimney because no smoke is released when the gas is burned. Its analogue is indoor gas stove with oven.
It’s not difficult to make - take... a ready-made potbelly stove, insert a steel pipeline into it with a nozzle from an old one gas stove. Connect it to a standard gas hose with a reducer from a household gas cylinder.
There is no exact cost for a potbelly stove, you can navigate by kitchen stove for 4 burners. The capacity of a cylinder (50 l) with 21 kg of propane-butane is enough for 34 hours of operation of such a stove.
DIY potbelly stove photo
The potbelly stove always came to the rescue in emergency situations and was a reliable assistant for summer residents, motorists with a garage, as well as owners of small private houses.
Today, it often takes on a new look, developed by interior designers, so it fits well into the halls of elite mansions. Is it possible to make this useful and sometimes simply necessary heating device with your own hands if you do not have enough experience in welding and cutting metal?
Of course, yes, and yes again, in order to cook a potbelly stove you only need to understand general principles welding metals, even if you end up with a crooked seam, you can always clean it up with a grinder; look at the photo below to see what kind of stove was welded by a beginner who had only used a welding machine twice in his life:
Tools required for work
For the manufacture of any metal structures you need a certain set of tools, which include:
- Welding machine, at least 200A and electrodes, protective mask and welding suit;
- Grinder (grinder), cutting and grinding wheels for metal. Some shaped parts can only be cut with a gas cutter.
- Skimmer(hammer);
- Metal brush;
- An ordinary hammer, chisel, pliers;
- Tape measure, folding meter and chalk for marks;
- Drill and drill bits for metal.
Types of homemade potbelly stoves
For different rooms you can choose your own type of potbelly stove that suits your needs best technical specifications and by appearance. They are made from metal tanks, medium-diameter pipes, barrels, gas cylinders and sheets with a thickness of at least 3-5 mm.
For heating in a garage, any of the potbelly stove options is suitable, but for use in a residential area, it is better to avoid some models.
Therefore, you need to consider the most popular options for potbelly stoves in order to find out which one to choose and make yourself.
Potbelly stove for mining - simple and cheap
This is exactly the option that is not suitable for use in premises where people live. The explanation is simple: when burning, waste oil emits a specific smell, even if there is a good exhaust system.
For production you will need sheet metal thickness 4-5 mm, from which everything will be cut necessary details. A pipe is also needed for the manufacture of some elements of the potbelly stove and chimney.
In the diagram presented, everything is clearly visible dimensions of the parts that needs to be prepared.
- All elements are accurately marked on a metal sheet and cut out using a grinder. All edges of the parts are carefully cleaned.
- In prepared the right size Round holes are drilled along the height of the pipe. It will connect the upper and lower containers of the potbelly stove.
- In the upper plane of the upper tank, in the place indicated according to the diagram, a hole of the required diameter is cut. It is offset from the center to the left and will be intended for the chimney pipe. On the bottom wall the hole is offset to the right side of the circle, and the connecting pipe will enter into it.
- Two circles are welded to a section of pipe that will determine the thickness of the upper tank.
- The lower part of the stove is made in the same way. Only the hole for the pipe to enter is cut in the center of the circle. In addition, another one is cut out, which will serve as a neck for filling the stove. A sliding cover is attached to it.
- Three or four legs are welded onto the lower solid plane.
- For rigidity, the upper tank is connected to the lower one with metal brackets.
- To ensure that the stove is beautiful and does not rust, all welds are thoroughly cleaned, and then all surfaces are painted with protective heat-resistant paint.
- The last step in the work is connecting the stove to the chimney.
Such a furnace works as follows: waste is poured into the lower tank, then using a splinter or rolled paper, it is ignited through the hole. The sliding cover on the hole is closed after the waste inside the tank ignites. Oxygen entering through the holes in the pipe that connects the two tanks promotes intense combustion. Hot air passing through the top of the stove heats it to a high temperature, so you can easily heat a kettle on its surface. Since there is always spent fuel in the garage, there will never be any problems refueling the potbelly stove.
Potbelly stove from an old barrel or pipe
This stove can be made from an ordinary metal barrel or pipes of a certain diameter. It is quite suitable for installation in a residential area of a summer house, and with a beautiful, neat design it can also be suitable for a residential building.
- On the right level future furnace Two rectangular holes are marked and cut out, which will be the entrances to the firebox and ash pan.
- The cut out parts will be useful for making doors. They are framed with metal strips, bringing them to the required size, and a special handle with a latch is installed.
- About ten centimeters below the firebox door, corner brackets are welded inside the barrel or pipe on which the grate will be laid.
- You can weld the grate yourself from reinforcement.
- If the stove is made of a pipe, its bottom and top are welded.
- The legs are welded to the lower bottom part.
- A hole for the chimney is cut in the top panel and a pipe is welded into it.
- Then the doors are installed on the fixed hinges. According to their location, the hook for the lock is marked and secured.
- In order for the stove to have an aesthetic appearance, all welding seams must be thoroughly cleaned. If the oven is then coated with heat-resistant paint, it will be impossible to distinguish it from the factory product.
- Then, when the stove is completely ready, it is connected to a chimney leading outside.
Generally , good option potbelly stove, if there is enough room for it in the room, since this model will take up a fairly large area. It should be noted that the top panel of the potbelly stove is large enough, and you can easily install a kettle or, for example, a frying pan on it.
Potbelly stove made from a bad gas cylinder
The gas cylinder has an almost ready-made shape for a good potbelly stove.
- The top of the cylinder with the tap is cut off, and a plug is subsequently welded to this place.
- A square hole is cut in its bottom part, which will serve as the entrance to the firebox. The cut out part should also not be thrown away. It is scalded, and thus the door panel will be ready.
- A handle lock is attached to it, and the door is installed on welded hinges.
- Holes are made on the wall of the cylinder, which will be the bottom of the future stove - they themselves will act as a grate.
- Underneath them, a box made of more thin metal. This will be an ash pit for disposing of waste from burnt firewood, which will also act as an ash pit. The door must also be secured to the ash pan.
- After this, the legs are welded - they can be made from a metal corner or pipes.
- A round hole is cut out in the upper rear part of the potbelly stove and a chimney pipe is welded into it.
- If necessary, you can also install a hob on top. To do this, it is enough to weld a frame made of steel reinforcement on the top of the cylinder. On such hob It is quite possible to place two items - for example, for cooking and heating water.
A potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder is perfect for both a garage and a room in a country house.
One of the home craftsmen shares his experience on how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands from a cylinder with a vertical arrangement:
Video lesson on building a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder
Potbelly stove made of rectangular sheet steel
This is probably the most optimal, an aesthetic, compact option from all the potbelly stoves proposed above. It is best suited for heating residential premises. The design of this stove is clearly visible in the two diagrams presented.
Compact, easy-to-use “Gnome”
The first of them shows the “Gnome” stove. It has a simple structure: two chambers - a firebox and an ash pan, a chimney pipe and legs.
The second diagram shows a more complex internal design of the potbelly stove, which will help it retain heat for more long term. This potbelly stove is worth considering.
- To make this stove you will need sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm, a corner 5 × 5 cm, a chimney pipe, and a burner cover.
- Markings are made on metal sheets and all the necessary details are drawn: the walls of the stove, the bottom of the potbelly stove, the hob; grate, two internal metal plates that direct the flow of burnt gases, their afterburning, and delay the rapid release of heat.
- Two rectangular holes for the firebox and ash pan are cut in the front wall of the stove. Here, doors with locks and latches for them will subsequently be attached to hinges.
- A neat opening for the burner is cut out in the upper plane (depending on the size of the purchased part), as well as a hole for the chimney.
- The legs are attached to the lower, bottom part.
- The place where the grate will be placed is marked on the side panels. Corners are welded to these places, they will become brackets for the grate.
- In order to make a grate, you can drill into a sheet of metal a large number of round holes, or weld a grid from reinforcement.
- In the upper part of the potbelly stove, at a distance of 16 cm from the hob, a plate is welded, its length being 8 cm less than the depth of the potbelly stove, i.e. it should not reach the back wall of the oven body by 8 cm.
- The same plate is welded to back wall, is 8 cm higher than the first plate, it should not reach the front panel by 8 cm. Thus, after installing all the parts, a labyrinthine a corridor through which hot air will pass, heating these plates and preventing the heat from immediately escaping into the pipe.
- Next, you need to assemble all the parts of the potbelly stove together by welding. All joints of parts must be reinforced with a metal corner.
- Lastly, the chimney pipe is welded and all welding seams are cleaned.
- To give the potbelly stove a spectacular look, it is painted with heat-resistant paint.
Rules for safe installation of a potbelly stove
In order for a homemade one to bring only comfort and warmth to the house, and not create problems, it is necessary to follow safety rules.
- The stove is installed on a fire-resistant surface. It can be arranged from tiles or in the form brickwork. The walls around the stove also need to be protected from overheating. This can be done using fire-resistant special drywall or other non-combustible material.
- Flammable materials must not be placed near the firebox.
- In the room where the stove will be located, there must be good system ventilation. This is important to ensure that there is no risk of carbon monoxide accumulation in the room.
- To make any potbelly stove, you must use only high-quality material.
The potbelly stove will serve effectively and for a long time, will be a good helper in household chores and will warm you up on winter evenings. The main thing is to think through the model well, make it carefully, and comply with all the requirements for safe handling during operation.
A potbelly stove is a compact iron stove with a chimney at the top. It consists of a chamber into which it is poured solid fuel, a grate in the form of a metal grate, a pipe - a chimney and an ash pan for collecting ash.
If you know how to handle a welding machine, the device is easy to make, and at the same time, it will serve faithfully in an unheated room, in field conditions, in the absence of centralized heating for decades.
How to do it yourself?
Manufacturing options:
Rectangular oven
It is a metal box; you can independently weld the structure from steel sheets. For a rectangular potbelly stove, an old car tank or box will do just fine.
Typically, this form is chosen when it is necessary to cook food on the stove.
On the spacious platform you can place 2 large pans or containers for heating water at once.
The manufacturing principle is simple: doors are built to cover the ashpit and combustion chamber, a hole is made for the chimney, combustion products must leave the room in a timely manner, otherwise you can inhale carbon monoxide.
From a gas cylinder
The most common type of potbelly stove. The cylinders have thick walls, making the stove durable, mobile, and fireproof.
First, a drawing is drawn and markings are made. The combustion chamber door will be located in the center of the cylinder. The blower is in the same plane, only 10–12 cm lower.
Instructions:
- We take an angle grinder, cut out both doors, draw a closed line between them.
- Along the line cut the balloon into 2 parts.
- At the bottom We weld the grate - the ash pan.
- Install grate, weld both parts again.
- For valve make a hole with a radius of 10 cm.
- For hood insert a hole into the pipe, weld objects together by welding.
- Simple stove from the cylinder is ready, you can use it, add fuel and check its operation.
For cooking on the top of the stove, the design is slightly different:
- Cut off the top of the balloon.
- Inserted inside and the rods are welded.
- Top side a hole for the pipe is cut. You can heat and cook food at the same time.
- The hole is welded, the valve is screwed in, a comfortable handle is adjusted.
- From the pipe, barrels can also be made into a furnace. The barrel or pipe must be selected according to its diameter.
- Below the barrel pipes, cut 2 holes for the firebox and ash pan.
- Make the doors.
- Do framing holes made of metal strips.
- Under combustion door At a distance of 10 - 12 cm inside the barrel, weld brackets in the corners, the grate will lie on them, pre-weld it from any fittings.
When making a stove from a pipe, weld the bottom, as well as the part on top:
- Down to the bottom weld 4 legs.
- On a surface cut a hole, weld a pipe to it, this will be a chimney.
- Weld the hinges to the previously cut holes, install the doors. Also, mark and attach a hook so that the doors lock tightly.
- For design aesthetics process all welding seams, clean them 10. Paint the outside of the device with heat-resistant paint. Whatever the factory product, you can sell it or successfully use it yourself.
Working furnace
The option is distinguished by a specific odor that oil waste will emit during fuel combustion, even in the presence of an exhaust hood.
Instructions:
- To make this model, pick up sheet material at least 4 mm thick, a chimney pipe, and individual small structural elements.
- Do it on a sheet precise markings of all elements, having previously drawn a drawing.
- Embed all elements with a grinder, clean the edges of the parts. Drill round holes in the pipe.
- Top of the tank cut a hole for the pipe offset from the center to the left.
- Offset to the right Drill a hole on the circle for the connecting pipe.
- It turned out to be 2 circles, weld them to the pipe; the thickness of the upper tank will depend on its length.
- Decorate the bottom part of the stove in the same way., but now cut the hole right in the center of the marked circle.
- Cut side by side second hole, attach the sliding cover to it.
- Weld to the bottom plane 4 legs.
- Clean seams after welding, paint the surface with high temperature resistant paint.
- Connect the chimney to the stove. The waste will be poured into the lower part of the tank; after the paper is ignited, the sliding lid closes and the waste begins to burn. Oxygen will penetrate through the holes, and the waste will burn intensely.
Necessary materials, tools
Before starting work, prepare the tools:
- metal brush;
- chisel, pliers, hammer;
- tape measure, chalk;
- drill with metal drills;
- sander;
- metal circles;
- welding machine;
- protective mask;
For the body you will need a pipe 30 cm in diameter, at least 5 mm thick. You can use sheet metal of the same thickness instead of a pipe.
For the chimney, you should select a pipe 12 cm in diameter, with a thickness of at least 3 - 4 mm. To prevent burnout, a metal box is suitable for the ash pan, so you need to choose durable sheet metal.
Step by step guide
First you need to cut the metal, taking into account the thickness and length of the required blanks.
Remove the chamfers from the parts, touching the stove will be safer, and the welding seams will be stronger:
- Check that the parts are correctly marked before you start cutting them. When cutting, take into account the thickness of the oven walls, as well as the thickness of the circle.
- Remove the chamfers from the prepared parts for safety from accidental contact with a hot device.
- Check all part markings.
The structure is installed in the following sequence:
- Connect welding machine to the network.
- Take electrode with a thickness of 4 - 5 mm, taking into account the sheet or pipe.
- Install current on the device is up to 160 A.
- Put it on special glasses and overalls, protect your hands with gloves.
- To the bottom of the oven weld three walls.
- Bottom of the device place it at least 5 cm from the floor.
- Connect parts at right angles. Check their perpendicularity with a level.
- Where you need it, straighten the corners of the parts.
- Weld parts and joints relative to the floor level, at an angle of 45 degrees.
- Weld a partition between the ash pit and the firebox, having previously cut holes so that ash does not accumulate.
- Endure the distance between the holes is at least 5 cm from the walls of the stove. The distance between the partition and the bottom of the structure must remain at least 10 cm.
- Last but not least by welding, cut holes for installing the chimney on the rear panel homemade stove.
- Make your markings, drill rectangular holes in the places intended for the firebox and ash pan.
- Combine with a partition all the lower parts of the holes. The distance between the walls of the firebox and the upper side edges should be at least 3 - 5 cm. The opening for the vent is slightly smaller, but not more than 5 cm.
- Bulgarian cut two holes from metal and form doors. Weld them onto the canopies, raise the blower as much as possible to the top of the slab opening so that they do not sag in the future under the influence of high temperatures.
- To the doors Weld the bolts, they should open and close easily, without obstacles.
After all welding work check the quality of the seams, tap them. If there are defects, correct them immediately. At the end of the work, weld the upper part of the device.
How to make a long-burning potbelly stove?
To ensure that the potbelly stove radiates heat for as long as possible without adding another portion of firewood, and does not burn out quickly, it is possible that the fuel will not burn, but smolder, the heating process without adding firewood can be extended for several hours.
Manufacturing a furnace for long burning slightly different from the usual design.
The best cylinder for the stove is:
- Cut the top off of it, this will be the stove lid.
- Make a hole at the top and side of the stove, this will be the hood.
- Make a hole in the center so that the balloon can be easily inserted.
- Weld to the cut hole of the pancake a pipe, slightly longer than the cylinder. The pipe will serve as a blower, and oxygen will flow into the furnace, and the fuel will not smolder and not burn.
- Cut off part of the cylinder in the center, insert a pipe into the hole as a blower. The operating principle of a long-burning potbelly stove is to create pressure inside the chamber. After the firewood ignites, a heavy metal circle plunges inside and begins to put pressure on the fuel, creating pressure on it, the fuel begins to lack oxygen and slowly smolder. The smoke, going upward, comes out through the chimney, the room will not be smoky.
Advantages and disadvantages
Like any other heating device, the stove has both pros and cons.
The undoubted advantages of a homemade stove are:
- Compact size.
- Use of any available fuel, can be heated with peat, firewood, sawdust, wood chips, and coal.
- Low cost of manufacturing the device, you can basically make do with handy materials.
- Installation of the structure does not require laying a foundation or chimney.
The disadvantages of the stove include:
- Fairly high consumption fuel material, the principle is this: while you heat it, it’s warm. To keep the room from cooling down, you need to add fuel more often, otherwise you may simply freeze.
- Furnace walls They become very hot and can cause burns if they come into contact.
- Can't be allowed coals falling out of the stove can cause a fire.
Where can it be used?
Stoves were popular in the first half of the last century. They warmed the soldiers' dugouts, dugouts, and heated carriages.
Today the stoves are still heated garden houses, garages, warehouses, greenhouses, that is, where there is no gas pipeline and electrical appliances are ineffective and burn a lot of electricity.
Types of homemade potbelly stoves
The material for the construction is cast iron or stainless steel. The stove consists of a container, an ash pan, a pipe, a chimney, and a combustion door.
They are distinguished by types:
- pyrolysis furnaces;
- with a cooking platform on top for cooking;
- furnaces lined with a casing for efficient heat transfer. For homemade products you can choose old cylinder, barrel, large vat, can. Furnaces can be cylindrical or rectangular in shape;
Installation safety rules
Any homemade heating device is designed to heat the room, making it more comfortable, but at the same time, such devices are far from safe and are fraught with ignition and fire.
When installing the structure, it is very important to follow safety rules:
- Bake must be installed on a fire-resistant surface, otherwise the floor may burn out. To do this, it is good to lay brick or tiles on the floor.
- Stove walls should not overheat too much; for this purpose, special plasterboard or other non-flammable material is used in production.
- Highly flammable materials Do not place it near the firebox, it may catch fire.
- Take care about ventilation in the room where the potbelly stove will be located. Carbon monoxide should come out in a timely manner and not accumulate inside the room.
- Use in production only high-quality, fire-resistant material.
- If there are panel or wood walls in the house install the stove at a distance of 1 meter from them.
- Be sure to mount chimney preferably from one section.
- When passing a pipe through a wall install a brick thermal barrier. Do not use concrete for these purposes; it crumbles quickly.
- For garage would be better suited The potbelly stove is being worked on, so don’t rush to throw away the car rims.
- Don't put on the stove near flammable materials.
- Pipe section It is above the roof that is made of non-flammable material, so the stove will cool much more slowly.
- Think it through ventilation system, there should be no burning in the room.
- Lay out the floor and walls near the structure with a brick, or facing material, the stove is a fire hazard. The same applies to the chimney; the distance to the walls and ceiling must be at least 1.2 meters.
- Set for security purposes metal fence around the device.
- grate It is better to make them from cast iron grates in a set, so they will be easier to pull out of the firebox.
- Install all chimney parts only at the top of the structure, they must withstand high temperatures over 300 degrees.
- Treat seams after welding with durable and high-quality sealant.
- Do not clean the pipe with a brush, metal objects, the pipe walls can quickly become leaky.
- Installing a chimney, make an anti-rain canopy, rain moisture will not get inside the pipe.
In houses where people live for a long time, high-quality and functional heating devices must operate continuously. This will help ensure that your home is comfortable and stable. temperature regime, and around the clock.
For this purpose, furnaces are usually used, differing optimal performance heat capacity. They release heat from occasional fires for as long as possible. In addition, a variety of boilers are widely used, which constantly heat the air or the coolant used. This applies to residential premises and buildings.
Those that belong to the non-residential category are heated a little differently. Due to the fact that heat is needed here only sometimes, it needs to be obtained as quickly as possible and with simultaneous small material costs. Such premises include objects such as greenhouses, various trailers, sheds, small houses. For them the best option there will be an effective potbelly stove with a water circuit, made by yourself and working on development
In terms of its design, this is the most primitive stove, which, at the same time, has long proven its ideal efficiency. It is for this reason that furnaces that operate during mining still remain in demand today. You can easily find a suitable drawing and make the design yourself.
Some manufacturers of modern heating equipment are still producing high-quality factory-built models, but despite this, potbelly stoves that burn wood or are often made with their own hands, based on a drawing. At the same time, their General characteristics sometimes much higher than standard factory options.
Below we will describe the main features of this heating device, which will help you decide what important details needs to be addressed Special attention, if you decided to make a stove with your own hands.
- Among the main advantages of this furnace are the following positive factors:
- Potbelly stove - it's relative simple design, which can be done without any problems a simple master through the use of available tools and materials;
- As a result, this product is quite mobile, even when using thick metal sheet or linings;
- Thanks to the presence of walls made of metal, the stove quickly heats the room - precisely for this reason this device for out-of-town country houses and a garage is ideal;
- Low cost of the furnace, as well as the fuel used, since very often such furnaces operate as waste.
Before you make a stove of this type, based on a drawing or photo, you should be aware of some disadvantages. Due to its small heat capacity, such a stove warms up the room when the firebox itself is fired.
The wall of the device becomes very hot, so extreme caution is required when handling the oven.
Basic models of homemade potbelly stoves
According to its principles, a potbelly stove is practically no different from models of a special solid fuel device. This is a certain type of very simple stove in the fireplace category. There are also special models that are equipped with hobs and special bath devices.
Material used to make the stove
Often a potbelly stove is made of high-quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. At different types metal, often used made of natural stone elements. If cast iron is used, then you should count on low heat capacity parameters; it is very difficult to find and it is not easy to cook. Many people prefer steel for this very reason; it is much easier to work with. Moreover, the thicker the material, the longer it will last.
If you plan to make a device for rare applications, for example, for emergency situations with a heating system, then make it from simple iron, whose thickness is 1 mm.
In the process of making a stove, all factory fittings may well be used. This applies to elements such as grates, the necessary doors, burners and valves. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands using steel.
Shape and material for the case
If you want to make a potbelly stove using drawings or photos, you must use the method of cutting a metal sheet.
- In addition, elements such as:
- Molding profiles;
- Square pipe;
- Special corners;
- Fittings;
- Rod.
All this is required to make the furnace body rectangular. Due to the presence of special planes, the case will have ideal ergonomic properties. In other words, the potbelly stove will be as stable as possible, it will be easy to process and cover. The stove can be easily and simply docked with the most different designs, objects and details.
Various metal cabinets and boxes can be used as a base. Often these are elements cylindrical, For example, large diameter pipes, cans, gas cylinders.
In the process of making a stove with your own hands, you will definitely need to use welding. If the metal is not very thick, the oven can be made using bolts, screws and a drill.Regardless of the chosen model, it is important to use drawings as the basis for production, because Despite its relative simplicity, certain instructions for implementing the heating device must be followed.
Important structural components
To make a durable potbelly stove for the garage, it is recommended to use detailed diagrams; photos will not help here. The drawing will help you independently create a practical and very effective version of the stove, which will ideal solution for heating a garage or other room. 
Manufacturing of the combustion chamber
It is worth noting that the larger the firebox in terms of its area, the better it will be, since the stove, which runs on oil, wood, and waste, transfers the function of efficient heat transfer. In addition, it is important to have a decent area of the bottom of the chamber, then it will be possible to lay firewood or other coolant well. It is for this reason that the shape of the stove should be cylindrical and laid on its side. All rectangular ovens must also be oriented strictly horizontally. Vertical arrangement This is only possible if the oven is large in size.
Making an ash pan
The structural element This is not always done, since ash can be removed directly from the fuel chamber. To ensure air supply, you just have to drill small holes in the door. If you plan to make a stove for a garage with an ash pan, then it may look like a box. This design makes it possible not to take up the space of the combustion chamber. In this case, the metal can be used quite thin, since there is no danger of burning. There is no need to weld it either, just screw everything in place.
Grate
If such an element is used, it effectively separates the chamber and the ash pan located in the housing. It is quite possible to use factory grates made of cast iron. The distance rule must be observed. The interval between the gratings should be 10 mm. For fastening, it is quite possible to use a special corner, which with its outer edge is turned into the fuel chamber.
Openings and doors
Such elements are usually made of metal, which is usually left over after the cutting work is carried out the necessary details. The doors are connected to the body by welding and steel canopies.
Openings deserve special attention, since here it is necessary to use standard sizes, which display drawings:
- For a firebox 250 by 250 mm.
- For the blower - height 100 mm and width 250 mm.
- Awnings are usually placed along one vertical line, with the distance between numerous openings being approximately 10 cm.
Gas and smoke removal
Pipes for this furnace should have a diameter of 100 to 150 mm. This element is directly involved in the process of heat transfer, therefore it is made of high-quality steel and is also not insulated. A part such as a pipe is usually located on the side, as well as at the very top of the furnace, with the first option being the most preferable.
Pipes in a room are usually not led along the shortest lines, but strictly to one of the most remote points and at the same time inclined and horizontal sections. This design significantly increases the amount of heat received.
The pipes with which the furnace is equipped, as the drawings show, must be equipped with valves - moving along a guide or rotating.
The need for such elements is based on the fact that it is possible to regulate the process of smoke removal as efficiently as possible and shut off the chimney for the time when the firebox is not being fired.
A valve on the pipes must be installed without fail, especially if various measures are taken to increase the overall heat capacity of the furnace.Parts to significantly increase combustion and heat capacity
Pipes in the manufacture of a waste oil furnace are not the only necessary element. It is important to ensure an optimal long-term combustion process. For a furnace that runs on waste oil, a special suspended load is ideal. As the fuel burns, it will press the load against the grate by its gravity. A metal pancake with a hole can be used as such a load.
Stone can be used as elements that provide heat capacity.
Here you can note the following execution options:
- If the furnace runs on waste oil, a lining with special refractory plates is optimal. It is ideal because the metal body wears out much less, and the volume of the firebox is preserved;
- Another method is based on covering all the walls with bricks. As a result, you can get a furnace that runs on waste oil;
- There are drawings of oil-fired stoves that have an open box in their upper part. A stone or brick is laid in it.
- Very often, a potbelly stove that runs on oil is designed in such a way that there will be a mesh on both sides to firmly fix the stones.
Summing up
This article described the main points for making stoves that run on oil. If you know all the main points of their manufacture, you can quickly make a potbelly stove yourself.
These are just the basics, but there are also numerous additional details, such as legs, handles for moving and protective screen. These details usually reflect the drawings, so everything will be as easy and simple as possible.
