How to choose a heater for thermal insulation of the outer walls of the house. The choice of insulation for thermal insulation of the exterior walls of the house What are the heaters for the exterior walls of the house

Wall insulation is an operation that is designed to solve several problems at once.

First, in this way can correct errors in calculations when designing a house, when the walls do not have the required thickness and cannot cope with heat-saving functions.

Secondly, insulation can be initially included in the design of the house as part of the construction plan, reducing material consumption and increasing functionality outer walls.

There are two insulation options that should be considered carefully.

There are two types of wall insulation:

• Outside.

Comparing these options with each other is not quite the right thing to do., since the process of wall insulation is literally possible only with an external location of the insulation.

The outer wall of the house performs three main functions:

• Mechanical barrier to protect against penetration into the room.
• The supporting structure of the building.
• Barrier to outside cold air.

Thus, when the insulation is located outside, all the working functions of the wall are preserved, plus an additional barrier appears that excludes contact with cold air, which is why internal heat is not dissipated into the atmosphere. Accordingly, the temperature of the wall rises, dew point shifts outward, the process of condensation of moisture and wetting of the material stops. All problems are solved in the most efficient way.

Comparison of insulation methods

With the internal location of the insulation, the wall completely ceases to perform heat-saving functions, remaining only a supporting structure and an obstacle. The fact is that the wall is not insulated from the inside, but, on the contrary, is cut off from contact with warm internal air.. Its temperature sometimes drops to the degree of equalization with the outside, which creates a lot of problems for organizing the removal of steam from the interior of the house.

If the insulation lets steam through, then the wall will definitely get wet, which is fraught with undesirable consequences.. The solution to this problem is a complex procedure, which includes the need to organize supply and exhaust ventilation, ensure the most hermetic cut-off of the internal atmosphere from contact with the heater, etc.

The presence of such problems quite eloquently convinces of the preference for external insulation as an effective process, practically devoid of disadvantages or harmful consequences.

The most common insulation materials

Almost all heaters available in wide sale, are suitable and common materials.

These include:

mineral wool

Most good option — , a dense fibrous material made from molten rock. It has high heat-saving qualities, conducts water vapor well, which is important for external wall insulation.

Does not promote the appearance of insects or rodents, does not burn. The disadvantage of the material is the ability to absorb moisture requiring the organization of high-quality hydroprotection.

Basalt wool

Styrofoam (PPS)

A material that is very popular due to its low price and very high heat-saving qualities.. It consists of many small hermetic granules filled with gas bubbles and soldered into a single array using hot steam.

It has a convenient manufacturing format, is easy to process and keeps its shape well, which helps a lot during installation. Wherein, almost impervious to moisture or water vapor, which requires appropriate measures to be taken to remove it.

In addition, it is not elastic - it crumbles or breaks when deforming loads appear.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene (EPS)

Chemically, the material is an analogue of polystyrene, but a different manufacturing technology significantly changes its characteristics.- a frozen foam mass, not consisting of individual particles, but being a continuous porous slab.

That's why the permeability to water or steam of XPS is practically zero. The heat-saving properties of the material are very high, it is durable, and is produced in the form of rigid plates. At the same time, it is much more expensive than polystyrene, which somewhat reduces its use.

Styrofoam

polyurethane foam

How insulation is used applied by spraying with special equipment. Most useful property PPU is the ability to apply as densely and airtightly as possible to the surface, without the formation of cracks or gaps.

A layer of hardened foam is formed, dense enough and at the same time light, not allowing steam or water to pass through.. It is quite expensive, in addition, equipment is required, as well as a specialist who knows how to work with PPU. It is used, most often, for internal application.

polyurethane foam

Penoplex

A variety of EPPS, which has qualities similar to it, but is somewhat modernized. Different types are made - for walls, for foundations, etc. The material is ideal for insulation and waterproofing of buried sections of walls or structures, and has proven itself as a heater for interior work.

It is produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses.

Penoplex

What is the best material for wall insulation?

largely depends on the general climatic and atmospheric characteristics of the region, as well as on the material of the walls. The main selection criterion is the ratio of the vapor conductivity of the wall and the insulation, which ensures the unimpeded removal of steam from one layer to another without the formation of accumulations or barriers.

NOTE!

The basic rule of insulation must be followed: the vapor permeability of materials should be maximum inside and decrease as you move out.

Compliance with this condition gives a guarantee of high-quality work of the wall cake, durability, preservation of the properties of wall materials and insulation.

Consider the most common wall options:

Foam concrete

Such porous material It is the easiest way to conduct steam and absorb moisture. Such properties determine the choice of insulation that can easily pass steam - mineral wool. At the same time, it is necessary to provide high-quality external vapor and hydroprotection, which ensures the removal of vapors to the outside and does not allow moisture to penetrate inside.

The best choice would be a single-acting waterproof membrane.

Insulation of foam concrete walls with mineral wool

Wooden

In terms of insulation, wood is a reliable insulator in itself.. Risky areas in this case are the joints of logs or beams, connecting planes and corner ligaments. The meaning of the whole procedure in this case is transferred to the plane of waterproofing and cutting off cracks.

Therefore, both mineral wool and polystyrene can be used as a heater., although in any case, careful surface preparation and, in particular, sealing of all cracks will be required. Without this, a positive result is not guaranteed.

From time immemorial, Russian huts were saved by the presence furnace heating- the draft carried away the extra particles of steam, and the kindling mode contributed to this. Currently, high-quality ventilation of the premises is required.

Insulation of wooden walls with mineral wool

brick

Brick is the most dense material, of the named ones, it is the least capable of passing water vapor.. At the same time, having a maximum density, the brick has a fairly high thermal conductivity, easily gives off heat to environment.

Therefore, the most effective heat insulator is required, capable of retaining heat and protecting the wall from external influences. The recommended material can be mineral wool, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), moreover, for mineral wool, waterproofing will be required, and polystyrene will create a risk of moisture accumulation at the outer boundary of the wall-insulation.

Thermal insulation with polyurethane foam

How to calculate the thickness of the insulation?

The calculation of the thickness of the outer insulation can be made according to several parameters:

• According to the location of the dew point.
• The thermal conductivity of the material.

Both methods require a lot of special data and are produced according to complex formulas. Most importantly, such calculations do not take into account the impact of subtle effects that can completely unpredictably change current processes. Therefore, in practice, they usually use ready-made data from similar projects that have shown themselves positively in operation, or they use online calculators, of which a sufficient number are offered on the network.

Specifications

It is only necessary to substitute the necessary data and get the finished result. For reliability, you should test it on several others to get the average value, the most correct.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating walls?

The reason for all the errors is the lack of information about the technology and a poor understanding of the meaning of the actions performed. Therefore, you should study the issue as fully as possible, find out all the nuances of vaporization and finding the dew point.

In addition, it is necessary to carefully analyze the technological processes used to insulate walls under these conditions and on this material, clarify all weaknesses and find out the most effective ways their elimination. Only after that should work begin.

Dew point

External thermal insulation of walls - the most successful and effective procedure. The main condition for success is the correct choice of material and the possession of the necessary knowledge, skills or other information. This approach ensures quality and reliable insulation exterior walls, creating a cozy atmosphere in the house.

Useful video

In this video you can watch an overview of modern types of thermal insulation:

In contact with

Now more and more often the insulation of buildings is used outside. This also applies to private houses and high-rise buildings. By insulating the walls from the outside, you can save up to 50% of energy resources on heating and air conditioning, so that the cost of thermal insulation sometimes pays off in less than five years.

However, before embarking on thermal insulation measures, you need to decide on the choice of insulation, which is best suited in a particular case. It is also important to choose which of the methods of insulation from the outside will be more suitable. These are the questions we will consider next.

Why is insulation better outside

External wall insulation is used more often than internal insulation for several reasons.

1. Does not deal with thermal insulation of the living space. This is especially true in small apartments and small houses, because the insulation with sheathing reaches 7-8 cm, which significantly reduces the already small living space.
2. Outside, you can put a much larger layer of insulation, which will, as a result, give a much better heat-insulating effect.
3. External wall insulation is combined with some kind of modern finish, such as siding, which can update a dilapidated facade
4. The seams between the slabs are closed in case of insulation from the outside of multi-storey block houses.
5. The building material from which the walls are built is protected, thereby extending its service life.
6. A home insulated from the outside, clad in siding, or plastered with a modern decorative mix will skyrocket in value, so insulation is a good investment.

What technologies are used for external insulation

External thermal insulation provides for several methods, among which the most common are three main methods.

1. Wet insulation technology when sheet heat-insulating material is glued to the wall, followed by additional fastening with dowels with a mushroom-shaped perforated cap. Further, the surface is reinforced with a special fiberglass mesh, which is mounted on a layer of plaster adhesive. After a full cycle of surface preparation, one of the types of decorative plaster coating is applied to it, which, after drying, is painted with tinted water-based paint.
2. Curtain facade method, which is somewhat reminiscent of intra-wall insulation. In this case, the heat insulator is fixed to the existing surface, in the same way as with the method described above. Next, the exterior masonry is erected, which is then plastered and painted. You can make the exterior masonry of decorative bricks to avoid the need for finishing. A ventilation gap is left between the wall surface and the heat-insulating layer.
3. The most popular, especially for external insulation of private houses, is ventilated facade technology. In the case of the implementation of this option, a crate is constructed, which is intended for sheathing with thermal panels or siding. Between the guides of such a frame, a heat-insulating material is laid, which is fastened either in a spacer between the elements of the crate, or with the help of mushroom-like dowels. Outside, a windproof film is fixed, which protects against moisture, including if a hygroscopic heat insulator is used. The last step here is sheathing with siding or some similar finishing facing.

The choice of one of the methods described above depends on the type of building, its number of storeys, the material from which the walls are built. So, with external thermal insulation of the walls of high-rise buildings, it is better to use the “wet” method. When insulating private houses, the construction of a ventilated facade with siding is preferable. Depending on the technology used, preferences for a particular thermal insulation material change.

What types of heaters exist

All the most common thermal insulation materials used outside are divided into natural and polymeric. The first ones include:

• mineral heaters (mineral wool, glass wool);
• cellulose heat insulators (ecowool).

Polymers are:

• Styrofoam;
• penoplex;
• polyurethane foam.

Now let's look at each type in more detail.

Mineral wool insulation materials

Mineral wool is used both for mounting on walls with subsequent finishing decorative plaster, and for arranging a ventilated facade cladding system with siding.

In the first case, mineral wool mats 100x60 cm in size are used, which are attached to the wall with glue and dowels, reinforced with fiberglass mesh, which sits on plaster glue.

The second option involves the construction of a frame, on which siding is sewn as a final cladding. Here it is better to use mineral wool of medium density. Considering that the insulation is capable of absorbing moisture, while deteriorating its thermal insulation qualities, it is necessary both from the side of the wall and from the outside to make waterproofing protection with a special perforated film. Before installing the siding, it is better to make a counter-lattice to ensure that there is a ventilation gap.

Outside insulation with ecowool

For insulation with ecowool, it is also necessary to equip the frame for siding.

First, a crate is made. Then a heater is applied to the wall, which is a cellulose mass mixed in certain proportions with water. Ecowool sticks to the wall, forming a continuous seamless heat-insulating layer. After drying, the excess is removed that is outside the outer plane of the crate. Then a layer of wind protection is laid, a counter-lattice is made and siding or a material similar in function is sewn on.

Thermal insulation with styrofoam and polystyrene foam

These sheet heaters are mainly used for arranging a "wet" facade. They are very convenient in work and subsequent finishing. Due to the fact that foam plastic is much stronger than foam plastic, it is better to use it at the bottom of the building, where there is a high probability of mechanical damage.

Above the level of one and a half to two meters from the surface of the earth, it is more expedient to use polystyrene foam, since it is much cheaper than polystyrene foam and this will help make thermal insulation more economical.

How walls are insulated from the outside with polyurethane foam

The method of thermal insulation using polyurethane foam spraying is in many ways similar to the method of applying ecowool. The scheme is the same - crate, spraying insulation, sheathing with finishing cladding. The difference is that, unlike "breathing" ecowool, polyurethane foam does not let moisture or steam through, so it is not suitable for, say, thermal insulation of wooden walls. But they can be much better than sheet materials to insulate walls made of brick, concrete or cinder block.

In this article, we briefly told you about the materials for wall insulation from the outside, so that you can decide which one is best suited in a particular case.

Market thermal insulation materials offers us a huge selection of options for external wall insulation, especially popular. These are products based on mineral wool, liquid insulation, classic foam plastic, and a variety of expanded polystyrene products.

In this article, we will figure out which insulation is better, study the reviews, and find out what should be followed when choosing a heat-insulating material in each case.

1 Why do you need external insulation of the walls of the house?

External thermal insulation of the walls by an order of magnitude increases the comfort of living in the house, both in winter and in the cold season. Having completed the thermal insulation of the walls of the house with high-quality insulation, your house will receive full protection at any time not only from freezing, but also from overheating of bricks, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks in the summer.

Moreover, good thermal insulation materials, as a rule, are completely hydrophobic (an example of this) - they do not absorb water, so that the walls of the house will be reliably protected from moisture.

Executed according to right technology external thermal insulation increases the average temperature inside the house by 4-5 degrees, since the walls do not freeze through in winter and do not transmit cold to the air inside the house, which, according to reviews, can significantly reduce the financial costs of heating the room.

Qualitatively calculated and executed thermal insulation even at the stage of building a house makes it possible to optimally select the elements of the heating system, and save both on the boiler and on radiators.

Similar savings apply to equipment to maintain a comfortable temperature for a person in the hot season. Thermal insulation materials work not only for insulation.

Since their thermal conductivity is minimal, they do not allow the walls of a house made of bricks, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks to warm up under the scorching sun, as a result of which in summer it is much cooler inside such a house than in uninsulated buildings.

The right approach to "sandwich" wall insulation

2 Types of heaters

As a material for external thermal insulation of walls, depending on financial capabilities, foam plastic, mineral (basalt wool), liquid penoizol, or extruded polystyrene foam can be used. It is not recommended to save on thermal insulation materials.

Of course, there are ways to insulate walls made of bricks, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks with foam plastic on a budget, such insulation will give a certain improvement, however, you should not expect the same efficiency from it as from insulating a house with basalt wool or foam insulation.

When choosing a heater, the key factor is the coefficient of its thermal conductivity, on which the thickness of the material layer required for wall cladding will depend.

For almost all materials in demand today in the middle price category, this indicator is in the range from 0.025 to 0.045 W / mk (Watt per meter per Kelvin). The extreme place is occupied by polystyrene, in which this indicator is 0.043 W / mk as in.

When choosing materials for wall insulation from the outside, it is also important to take into account such qualities as hydrophobicity (resistance to water), chemical inertness and mechanical strength, since these factors directly affect the durability of the insulation.

It is best that the heat insulator also has noise-reducing properties, which will allow you to kill two birds with one stone: the external insulation of the house will also solve the issue of soundproofing housing.

According to statistics, at least 85% of private residential buildings built over 20 years ago do not meet thermal insulation standards. As a result, people are forced to spend a large number of funds for space heating to maintain a comfortable temperature for housing during the winter period.

As the graph below shows, even insulating the outer walls of the house with a ten-centimeter layer of conventional inexpensive insulation (the same polystyrene foam, or extruded polystyrene foam with), reduces heat loss through the walls by at least 3 times.

2.1 Mineral wool

The most popular insulation for the outer part of the walls is mineral wool. Insulation of walls outside with mineral wool is very popular due to the excellent thermal insulation characteristics and the moderate price of this material.

The concept of mineral wool can mean three types of insulation at once: wool based on basalt rocks, slag wool (made from slag left in blast furnaces of the metallurgical industry) and glass wool made from cullet and similar waste.

by the most quality option mineral wool is considered basalt wool. Methods for the production of this insulation are based on the remelting of basalt rocks.

The smelting of rock can be carried out either in blast furnaces or by induction heating under the influence of electromagnetic radiation.

The molten basalt rock is fed into a centrifuge, inside which a cooled forming drum is located. Due to the pressure drop and the centrifugal force of the drum, separate basalt fibers are formed from the melt on its surface, which are fed to the shaper.

The forming unit turns the individual fibers of mineral wool into a continuous carpet like that, which is impregnated with additives that improve the performance properties of mineral wool.

By itself, mineral wool has a susceptibility to moisture absorption, in order to eliminate this drawback, manufacturers impregnate it with a polymer mixture, which, after hardening, gives mineral wool the required hydrophobicity.

Specification Comparison different types mineral wool

1. Temperature conditions: slag wool (ShV) - up to 250, glass wool (SV) - up to 450, basalt wool (BV) - up to 1000 degrees;
2. Thermal conductivity coefficient: ShV - from 0.46 to 0.48; CB, from 0.038 to 0.046; BV - 0.035 to 0.042 W / m-k;
3. Flammability class: all types correspond to the NG class (non-combustible);
4. Absorption coefficient for 24 hours of immersion in water: SH - 1.9%, MW - 1.7%, BV -0.095%;
5. Pungency: ShV - yes, CB - yes, BV - absent;
6. The concentration of binding impurities: for all types of mineral wool from 2.5 to 10%;
7. Nominal heat capacity: ShV - 1000, SV - 1050, BV - 1050 J/kg;
8. Mineral wool sintering temperature: SHV - 250, CB - 450, BV - 600 degrees;
9. The length of individual fibers: ShV - 16, SV - 15-50, BV - 16 millimeters;
10. The noise reduction coefficient is the same as for: SHV - 0.75-0.82; CB - 0.8-0.92; BV - 0.75-0.95.

Mineral wool is produced in the form of rolls and slabs, suitable for insulating walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks. This heater, as evidenced by the reviews, the best option for thermal insulation attic floors, floors, and any flat surfaces.

2.2 Liquid penoizol

Of the liquid heaters, the most popular option is penoizol.

This is not an option that is suitable for arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, since you will need to rent special equipment that produces penoizol right at the workplace and pay for the labor of the workers who manage it, however, if you are not afraid of these difficulties and the financial costs associated with them, then penoizol - the best option for warming the exterior walls of the house.

In general, the cost of insulating a house with penoizol is comparable to the final price of insulating a house mineral wool.

However, there is one important difference, penoizol is also successfully used to insulate internal voids of already exploited hollow walls made of brick, expanded clay concrete, or gas silicate blocks, without the need to dismantle them, which cannot be done with other heaters.

Among the advantages of insulating a house with penoizol, one can single out the maximum protection of walls from any external influence, since after solidification, penoizol turns into a monolithic surface through which neither wind nor moisture passes.

Solidity also guarantees high-quality insulation, since the possibility of the formation of cold bridges, which reduce the effectiveness of all thermal insulation, is eliminated.

To insulate the house with penoizol, an installation is delivered to the work site that produces foam from a special resin and chemicals.

Penoizol is applied to the wall with a hose, the surface of the walls is pre-coated with special compounds to improve adhesion. A facing layer of siding or any decorative material is installed on top of the penoizol.

2.3 Extruded polystyrene foam

This material is used not only for the insulation of the outer walls of the house. Due to its mechanical strength and durability, expanded polystyrene is also used for thermal insulation of the outer contour of the foundation located in the ground.

It is justified to use extruded polystyrene foam for insulation of a house stand if your house, in itself, has good thermal insulation, and you are looking for an inexpensive and durable material.

Among all budget options insulation, polystyrene foam - the best option, superior to conventional foam in all respects. Among strengths This material has the following advantages:

• Maximum hydrophobicity (polystyrene foam, like polystyrene, is completely waterproof);
• Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, from 0.029 to 0.034 W / m-k;
• High density, and, as a result, resistance to deformation;
• Chemical resistance;
• Wide range of permissible temperatures, from -500 to +700 degrees;
• Self-extinguishing property;
• Minimum panel weight and thickness.

It is also worth highlighting the ease of installation of extruded polystyrene foam on all types of walls. In order to fix this insulation on the surface of brick, expanded clay concrete or gas silicate blocks, it is not necessary to equip an additional supporting frame, which is necessary when installing mineral wool.

Panels of extruded polystyrene foam are planted on the walls with liquid nails, and fixed around the perimeter with umbrella-shaped anchors.

The use of thermal insulation systems in building structures allows you to significantly reduce heating costs. The use of various heaters makes it possible to accelerate the pace of construction and reduce the budget for building a house. In order for them to cope with their duties, you need to know how to choose them. Do you agree?

We will tell you how to choose the right insulation for the walls of the house outside. The article presented by us describes all the types of heat-insulating materials used in practice and the features of operation. Independent owners of country estates will find the technology of facade insulation with us.

Heat loss through walls averages about 40%, depending on the structural integrity and wall thickness. With rising prices for gas and electricity, it becomes unacceptable to spend money on street heating.

Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, which gives the following advantages:

• thermal insulation of the house from the outside does not take away the usable area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe living space inside the building;
• the insulation layer performs decorative and protective functions for the walls, extending the period of their use;
• walls insulated from the outside do not freeze and are not saturated with moisture from steam, as with internal insulation;
• thermal insulation materials also perform a soundproofing function.

But the main reason for insulating the facade of the house is still economic, because this simple procedure can almost halve the amount in receipts for heating.

For a competent selection of material designed to reduce heat loss, you need. The article recommended by us will acquaint you with its examples and formulas.

Types of insulation materials

So what is the best way to insulate the house from the outside in order to reduce heat loss? Manufacturers offer many materials suitable for these purposes. But there are several main types. Among them: foam plastic, basalt wool, glass wool, extruded expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and others.

Less effective way insulation is considered to be the application of a layer of plaster to the outer part of the walls. This inexpensive way reduce heat loss, but it requires experience and certain skills - just desire will not be enough.

External wall insulation requires certain professional skills from the performer. They are useful, both when choosing a material, and during its installation.

Wooden houses are often insulated with a double frame. In this case, any of the listed materials is attached to the walls, and cladding is performed on top. At the same time, an air “cushion” remains between the insulation and the decorative layers for air ventilation.

Option number 1 - foam

Expanded polystyrene has gained the greatest popularity among heat-insulating materials. First of all, this is due to its low cost. A distinctive feature of the insulation is also its low weight.

Other advantages of the material:

• low thermal conductivity;
• affordable cost;
• long service life.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the fact that the foam does not let steam through. This feature does not allow it to be used for warming wooden houses.

Among other shortcomings, it is also significant that expanded polystyrene is a combustible material that releases substances harmful to humans during combustion. In addition, the fragility of the material, which leads to damage to the insulation even with minor mechanical stress, greatly complicates its installation.

Styrofoam insulation is a great way to reduce heat loss, both in a private house and in an apartment or industrial enterprise and for quite a bit of money.

Option number 2 - mineral wool

This material is also well-deservedly popular with owners of residential and non-residential premises.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• high vapor permeability that does not rot wooden structures, and the bricks are not saturated with moisture, which prevents the appearance of mold and fungi on the surface of the walls;
• low cost;
• low weight of mats, which makes it easier to work with them and reduce transportation costs;
• the material is not combustible, there are no toxic odors;
• long service life.

There are three types of mineral wool: slag wool, glass wool and stone (aka basalt). Each of the materials has its own characteristics.

Basalt wool is considered the most suitable for residential buildings, as it is made from safe raw materials, unlike glass wool. At the same time, the material is stronger and more durable than slag wool. But the high cost of basalt wool is its disadvantage.

Mineral wool, made in the form of mats, is the most practical option for insulation of low walls and small rooms. And anyone who knows at least a little about construction will be able to cope with its installation.

Modern glass wool is considered safe to use. Unlike the material of the same name, made ten years ago, it does not irritate the respiratory tract. It can insulate not only external, but also internal walls, and overlaps.

Differs in convenience of installation, small weight. Can be purchased in rolls or slabs. It is more expedient to buy rolled material for warming long walls. And glass wool slabs are suitable for small walls.

There are the following advantages of the material:

• does not absorb moisture from the air;
• no toxic odors;
• does not ignite;
• does not change shape during operation;
• high performance vapor permeability;
• good soundproofing properties;
• does not interact with chemicals;
• can be used in all climatic zones planets.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than made in the form of plates. For cutting it, you can use ordinary sharpened knives.

There are not many shortcomings in the material. Among them:

• when insulating walls with glass wool, you need to work in protective gloves and goggles;
• fragility of the fibers of the material, due to which a lot of synthetic material is in the air during installation and prevents safe breathing.

Despite the fact that modern insulation material an order of magnitude more environmentally friendly and safer for humans, with a significant amount of polymer particles in the air, it is better to use a respirator.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than made in the form of plates. For cutting it, you can use ordinary sharpened knives.

Option number 3 - e extruded polystyrene foam

Make this material from ordinary foam.

After special processing he gets the following benefits:

• increased compressive strength;
• low moisture absorption;
• low flammability or its complete impossibility, which depends on the amount of flame retardant substance;
• reduced thermal conductivity.

For such material, you will have to pay a higher price than for ordinary foam. But more durable and reliable.

Another disadvantage is the smooth surface of the material plate. Because of this, solutions do not “seize” with it, therefore, without pre-training the surface of such foam cannot be used in the design of the "wet facade".

You will need to process the smooth side of the shallow sandpaper to give it a rough surface. Additionally, you can apply a layer of adhesive primer, which will increase the penetration of the solution into the insulation material.

Option number 4 - loose insulation

Bulk materials can also be used for external thermal insulation.

Among them, the most popular are:

• vermiculite;
• perlite crushed stone;
• expanded clay.

Vermiculite can be used not only for wall insulation outside the room, but also from the inside. They insulate sewer and water pipes, floors, attics, foundation. It can be made in the form of plates. There are technologies by which this material is added to concrete or solutions.

Vermiculite - natural material that does not emit harmful toxic odors. Its advantages are: durability, lightness, fire resistance, low thermal conductivity and sound absorption. It also does not absorb moisture.

For warming outer wall bulk material can be added to the mortar or poured between the main wall and the decorative wall, erected on a foundation of facing bricks. This method is more expensive, as it requires the expansion of the foundation. An additional load on the foundation slab is also assumed.

Vermiculite is sold in paper bags, usually 25 kg each. This is very convenient for transportation, because for delivery you can do with your own cars.

Perlite, depending on the fractions, can be of various sizes. It is also used for roof and floor insulation. It is a volcanic glass-like rock that is odorless. It is widely used not only in construction, but also in metallurgy, agriculture.

Material advantages:

• porous structure;
• low cost;
• easily absorbs and releases moisture without losing its qualities;
• resistance to fire;
• low thermal conductivity.

A perlite layer of only 3 cm has the same thermal insulation efficiency as a 25 cm wide brickwork.

Expanded clay- granular porous material obtained by artificial means. When burning several components (peat bog, intumescent clay, solar oil, sawdust, sulphate-alcohol bards) low-melting raw materials are obtained. It is foamed and thermally processed into its final shape.

To save on the purchase of expanded clay, you need to buy it from the manufacturer. Of course, this is not always convenient, but there is a guarantee that the material is really of high quality.

The material is sold in fractions from 2 mm to 40 mm. Expanded clay from 10 mm to 20 mm is considered the most popular. It is they who need to fill the space between the walls - the main and decorative.

An interlayer of only 100 mm replaces brickwork of 1000 mm in terms of thermal conductivity. In the frosty season, the insulation will not allow the house to lose a lot of heat, and in summer heat- will keep the room cool, due to the extremely low thermal conductivity.

Advantages of wall insulation with expanded clay:

• this is one of the cheapest heaters;
• reduction of heat losses reaches 75%;
• can be used at any outdoor temperature and humidity;
• long service life;
• there is no combustion and decay of the material;
• expanded clay does not attract insects and rodents;
• you can insulate the house yourself, as high technical skills and special tools are not required.

In the interlayer between the decorative and bearing wall expanded clay can be poured in its pure form, or mixed with cement. Proportion 1:10 - one part of cement and ten parts of expanded clay. You will need a concrete mixer and water to dissolve the cement. The empty space between the walls is poured with the finished mixture.

It looks like a cement mixture with expanded clay, which can be poured as a heater between two walls. Definitely warming. cement mixture quite a long process, but worth it

You can also do otherwise: first pour expanded clay to a height of 300 mm, and then soak it with prepared cement "milk". Then add insulation again. And so repeat until the height of the insulation reaches the desired level.

Any of the methods will not worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Facade insulation technologies

There are three main technologies for facade insulation:

• "well" method- arrangement of a multilayer wall;
• "wet" method- under plastering;
• "dry" method- technology "ventilated facade".

Depending on the chosen one, thermal insulation materials suitable for implementation should be selected.

"Wet" method is the application of a finishing coating on a layer of insulation in the form of a plaster mixture. Since the mixture is rich in moisture, it is necessary to use only materials that do not absorb water. Styrofoam is best suited for this, but mineral wool is also used.

Depending on the strength of the wall and the integrity of the brickwork, the plaster system can be "light" or "heavy". In the first case, the main goal is to reduce the weight of the thermal insulation layer.

The insulation is fixed to the wall with glue and dowels. Outside, it is protected by a metal profile made of thin aluminum. Only a thin decorative layer of plaster is applied to it to level the surface of the wall and give it a finished visual appearance.

In the "heavy" system, the insulation is fixed with metal anchors and pressed reinforcing mesh. A layer of plaster of 5-5.5 cm is applied on top. This design is reliably protected from temperature extremes and moisture.

With the "dry" method insulation plaster is not used at all. The insulation is fixed on the wall with glue and mounting "umbrellas". In this case, it is ideal, for which telescopic fasteners with wide hats and other mounting elements are specially produced.

From the outside, the insulation is protected by a membrane layer, the main task which is to provide protection from atmospheric water. The membrane is fixed with remote metal or wooden slats, which form a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the cladding.

The gap width is up to 5 cm. The sheathing layer can be made of various panels: wooden, steel. It can also be laying in "half-brick", tile or siding. This method of insulation is more durable, in contrast to the "wet", and can reach a service life of half a century.

By multi-layer technology the surface is insulated with two more layers: from a heater and an external brick wall. This method of insulation has been described above. Various bulk materials are suitable for it, which are resistant to steam, condensate and moisture (expanded clay, perlite, etc.).

For a competent choice of insulation, you need to take into account several more factors that can affect the quality of the work performed.

Condition of walls and foundations. If the house is old, and the foundation or brickwork already cracked, it is necessary to abandon heavy insulation structures. In this case, the installation of light and durable materials is best suited. It is better to fix them with the help of special adhesive compositions.

The architectural complexity of the building. Styrofoam and mineral wool are well processed and make it possible to provide reliable insulation of walls with recesses, patterns and other decorative elements.

Insect and rodent resistance. Often, small rodents and insects, such as mice or ants, can make nests under a layer of heat insulator.

If there is such a problem on the site, then it would be advisable to conduct insulation using bulk materials. Expanded clay is well suited, as it does not attract animals.

It is also necessary to take into account other factors, such as the price of the insulation, the features of its installation, the material of the walls, the impact on the environment, resistance to fire, etc.

If you plan to install a thermal insulation system from inside the house, it is worth reading, which details the materials and methods for their use.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To avoid common mistakes when choosing materials for insulation, we recommend watching the following videos:

With all the diversity available materials and methods of insulation, you can always choose the most suitable. Despite the fact that some works seem easy to perform, it is better to entrust them to experienced builders and heat engineers.

Do you want to talk about how you selected a heater for arranging your own country house? Do you have information that will be useful to site visitors? Please write comments, ask questions on controversial or interesting points, post a photo in the block below.

External thermal insulation gives a much better effect than warming the house from the inside. In addition to the main functions, the insulation protects the walls from precipitation, mechanical damage, weathering and thus prolongs the life of the entire building. Installation of insulation does not require special knowledge or skills, and most homeowners can easily cope with this task on their own. But in order to do everything as efficiently as possible, you need to know what materials there are for insulating walls from the outside, and how to fix them correctly.

Despite the fact that the operating conditions outside and inside the house are strikingly different, in both cases the same materials can be used. However, when choosing a heater, preference should be given to those options that best meet the following requirements:

• increased resistance to shrinkage;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• resistance to ultraviolet;
• durability;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to insects and microorganisms.

For wooden houses, the vapor transmission capacity of the insulation is also important, because wooden walls should "breathe". As a rule, finishing coatings for facades are designed for long-term operation, and it is too troublesome and not always advisable to remove them every few years to replace worn-out thermal insulation. At the same time, if the insulation under the finish is compressed, cracked, starts to rot or mice gnaw it, it will no longer be able to retain heat, which means that it will not be possible to do without repair. That is why it is so important that the selected material fully meets the specified criteria.

Types of thermal insulation materials

At the moment, the construction market offers the following materials for home insulation:

All of them differ in technical specifications, mounting technologies, have different service life. Moreover, each of them is suitable for outdoor use and has its own advantages. Let's consider these materials in more detail.

Mineral wool is made from fine fibers obtained by melting and pulverizing glass, blast-furnace slag or rocks. Depending on the location of the fibers, the structure of the insulation can be corrugated, vertically layered and horizontally layered, have different density and thickness. Each type of mineral wool has its own characteristics:

Mineral wool is produced in slabs and mats with various options coatings - kraft paper, aluminum foil, fiberglass. In terms of cost, basalt insulation is the most expensive, and the higher its density, the more expensive it is.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• the fine-fiber structure promotes the free passage of air and water vapor, so the risk of condensation on the insulated surface is minimal;
• due to the mineral base, the material is not subject to combustion, which means it is additional protection walls from fire;
• the insulation has a relatively high moisture resistance, and therefore effectively prevents the penetration of dampness into the house;
• mineral wool perfectly absorbs sounds and vibrations, and street noise almost does not penetrate into the insulated room;
• the insulation is lightweight, easy to process, thanks to its elasticity, it quickly restores its shape after crushing during installation;
• in mineral wool microorganisms, insects do not develop, rodents do not like it.

Flaws:

• mineral wool has a tendency to shrink, and the lower the density of the material, the faster the deformation occurs. Rigid basalt slabs are the least susceptible to shrinkage, but due to the high cost, not everyone can afford such thermal insulation;
• when wet for a long time, the insulation is saturated with moisture and loses its thermal insulation qualities;
• microscopic fibers are easily destroyed when squeezing and cutting the material, and then settle on the skin, causing irritation, and can enter the eyes and lungs. Glass wool is considered the most dangerous in this regard, but with other types of mineral wool, at least gloves and a respirator should be used.

Popular brands of mineral wool.

Prices for mineral wool

Styrofoam and XPS

Expanded polystyrene insulations are excellent thermal insulators due to their closed cell structure. Almost 98% of the material is air or an inert gas enclosed in sealed cells, so the insulation weighs very little. Both polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam practically do not absorb moisture, which means they are great for insulating foundations, plinths, basements. When thermally insulating facades, these materials serve as the basis for applying plaster.

Advantages:

• polystyrene foam insulation weighs little and is easy to process during installation, so even a beginner can handle it. In addition, such thermal insulation does not exert a large load on the base, which means that there is no need for additional reinforcement of the supporting structures;
• microorganisms cannot develop in expanded polystyrene, therefore fungi and mold are not afraid of the insulation;
• with proper installation, these materials serve for a long time, especially XPS - up to 50 years;
• polystyrene and EPPS are resistant to soap and saline solutions, alkalis, bleach and other chemically aggressive substances;
• installation does not require the use of protective equipment in the form of a respirator or gloves, since the insulation does not emit toxic fumes or small particles, and does not cause irritation.

Flaws:

• expanded polystyrene refers to vapor-tight materials, and therefore cannot be used for insulating wooden walls;
• the insulation is destroyed upon contact with solvents, drying oil, some types of varnishes, as well as under the influence of sunlight;
• soundproofing properties are much lower than those of mineral wool insulation;
• already at + 30 degrees, polystyrene foam begins to release harmful substances- toluene, styrene, formaldehyde and others. When burning, the amount of toxic emissions increases significantly.

On the domestic market, EPPS of domestic production - Penoplex and Tepleks, as well as polystyrene foam insulation of the Ursa, GREENPLEX, PRIMAPLEX brands are in great demand.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Cellulose insulation

Cellulose insulation, which is also called ecowool, is made from paper waste and waste paper. Ecowool consists of 80% cellulose fibers, the remaining 20% ​​are antiseptics and flame retardants. The material is densely stuffed into all irregularities and voids and forms a dense seamless coating with high vapor permeability. Installation of insulation is carried out in two ways - dry and wet-glue, and both options can be performed both manually and using a special installation.

The dry method allows you to perform thermal insulation in a short time and immediately proceed to finishing. But at the same time, the coating density will not be high enough, which will lead to shrinkage and the appearance of cold bridges. In addition, with dry blowing, a large amount of fine dust is formed and you have to work in a respirator.

The wet-glue method provides better adhesion of the insulation to the base, the layer is much denser and more resistant to shrinkage, which guarantees the durability of the thermal insulation. True, it takes time for the material to dry - from 2 to 3 days, and even more in cold or wet weather. And until the layer is completely dry, you can not start finishing.

Advantages:

• environmental Safety;
• excellent heat and sound insulation properties;
• resistance to bacteria, fungi, insects;
• fire resistance;
• long service life;
• affordable price.

• tendency to shrink;
• high hygroscopicity;
• the complexity of doing the work manually.

polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam, or PPU, belongs to a new generation of insulation and has improved characteristics compared to traditional materials. It is a liquid polymer mixture, which, after application to the surface, hardens and forms a durable coating with a cellular structure. The components are mixed immediately before starting work, and the finished solution is applied by spraying using a special installation.

Advantages:

• the liquid mixture easily fills all the bumps, cracks, recesses, is conveniently applied in hard-to-reach places;
• the material perfectly retains heat and muffles sounds;
• PPU is resistant to chemically aggressive substances, practically does not absorb water, withstands sudden changes in temperature;
• can be applied to any type of surface - wood, concrete, brick, metal;
• the insulation is very light, therefore it does not require strengthening of the supporting bases;
• the average service life is 25-30 years.

• polyurethane foam is destroyed under the influence of sunlight;
• spraying requires equipment and skills to work with it;
• PPU can not be used in areas that are very hot;
• high cost of material and services of specialists.

wall insulation technology

Thermal insulation of the facade can be performed in different ways, depending on the type of insulation. But for all options, a prerequisite is high-quality preparation of the base, because not a single insulation can stop the processes of destruction of wall materials. Let's consider ways of warming with mineral wool and polystyrene boards, as the most popular in frequent construction.

Warming with mineral wool

Exterior walls are cleaned of dirt, peeling plaster or paint. They repair cracks and problem areas, be sure to treat the places affected by the fungus. Small irregularities do not need to be eliminated - the mineral wool insulation is mounted using a frame, so all defects will hide inside. Finally, the walls are covered with a waterproof primer with antiseptic properties so that mold does not develop under the thermal insulation layer.

Step 1. The bars for the frame are cut to desired length, treated on all sides with antiseptic impregnation and air-dried.

Advice. The cross section of the bars should be selected taking into account the thickness of the heat-insulating layer. That is, if plates with a thickness of 50 mm are laid in one row, the thickness of the frame should be 5-6 cm, with two-layer laying - at least 11 cm. on the rib.

Step 2 On the walls, markings are made for the frame guides strictly according to the level, holes are drilled for fasteners and bars are installed. The distance between the posts should be 10-15 mm less than the width of the insulation board. During installation, control the location of the elements building level, if necessary, use wooden linings under the beam so that all the racks are in the same plane.

Step 3. Insulation is inserted into the cells of the frame. To do this, the plates are slightly squeezed along the edges, pressed between the racks and released. The material spreads out on its own and densely fills the space. The insulation must be inserted so that there are no gaps between the plates.

Step 4 After filling all the cells from above, the insulation must be closed with a windproof moisture-proof membrane. The membrane is laid with the marked side outward, the sheets are arranged horizontally, starting from the bottom. A construction stapler is used to fix the membrane. The top sheet is overlapped by 8-10 cm, and it is recommended to glue the joints with adhesive tape.

Step 5. Filled over the membrane wooden slats counter-lattices 30-40 mm thick to provide an air gap. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate on the insulation, moisture will nourish the wooden frame and the structure will quickly become unusable.

After that, it remains only to mount top coat, for example, siding or corrugated board. The finish must completely cover the heat-insulating layer so that precipitation does not fall on the plates. Only under such conditions the material will last long and effectively.

The last step - decorative facade decoration

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

This method of insulation is noticeably different from the previous one. First, the base must be leveled so that the material fits snugly against the surface. Secondly, the installation is carried out without a crate, the plates are attached to the glue and dowels-fungi.

Step 1. Prepared walls are primed with quartz sand, for example, Betokontakt. If the base is porous, the primer is applied in 2 layers.

Step 2 The lower boundary of the thermal insulation is determined and a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the house. Holes for dowels are drilled according to the marking in increments of 20-30 cm and the starting bar is fixed.

Starter bar fixed

Step 3 To fix the insulation, you need a special glue. You can use canned mounting adhesive, such as TYTAN STYRO 753, or a dry adhesive mix (Ceresit CT 83). The mixture is diluted in clean water according to the manufacturer's instructions, mix until smooth with a mixer at low speed.

They take the first sheet, apply glue on the back side with a continuous strip along the perimeter and in the center. Next, they apply a heater to the wall, resting the bottom edge on the starting profile, check the location with a level, firmly press it to the base.

Step 4 Fix the entire row, tightly joining the sheets together. The next row starts with half a sheet to offset the vertical seams. Excess glue that has come out at the joints is carefully removed with a spatula.

Step 5 When the glue has hardened, each sheet must be fixed with dish-shaped dowels. To do this, carefully drill holes in the wall through the insulation, insert dowels and carefully hammer them with a hammer. 5 fasteners are required per sheet - in each corner and in the center.

Step 6 Next, the adhesive solution is kneaded, applied in a continuous layer on the insulation, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is laid on top and recessed in the solution. Openings and corners are additionally reinforced with corner profiles.

When the solution dries, the surface is sanded, dusted and plastered with a thin layer. Now it remains only to paint the facade or apply decorative plaster.

Prices for Ceresit glue

Glue Ceresit

Video - Materials for wall insulation outside

Video - Insulation of the facade with foam plastic