Installing the siding trim. Facade cladding with siding

Already a lot, including on this site. The material is practical, relatively inexpensive, absolutely affordable. After the purchase, the following question immediately arises: entrust the cladding to the invited master, or do it yourself? The first option is preferable with an excess of money. If there is none, you will have to do the installation of siding with your own hands. A video instruction (and more than one) will just help any novice builder to master this process.

Preparation

Before proceeding directly with the installation of siding, it is necessary to make whole line preparatory work. This will take some time, but will provide comfortable work and get rid of errors. What actions should be included in the preparatory phase?

• Workplace layout. The space around the house along the perimeter should be cleared, it is desirable to install a workbench for marking and cutting material.

• A prerequisite is that the house should already shrink, the resulting cracks must be hidden under the facade plaster, this process is shown in the video instructions below.

• If an old building is sheathed, it is necessary to dismantle the existing sheathing, problem areas (mold, rot) are treated with an antiseptic, stained or removed. Seams and chips can be treated with sealant.

• Further, we must remember that no surface can be perfectly flat. It will inevitably have depressions, protrusions, general deviations from the vertical and horizontal. All these flaws will have to be eliminated. Somewhere cut a piece of reinforcement, somewhere a piece of a nail.

• The next step in the installation of siding with your own hands is stuffing the crate. It can be of two types: wooden blocks or metal profiles. The distance between the supporting elements is 350-400 mm.

• A heater (basalt wool, extruded or foamed polystyrene foam) is placed between them.

Only then can one say that preparatory work finished, and you can mount the siding itself. However, we remember that there are at least three types of this finishing material on sale (vinyl, metal and plinth). Each of them has some features and installation secrets. It's time to take a look at what they are.

Video instruction - do-it-yourself metal siding installation

This video shows how a common white brick you can dress up in a cute outfit. Installation Demonstrated wooden crate, the process of insulation, laying metal siding.

In this video, metal profiles are attached to a wooden base.

Finally, this video contains specific instructions on how to properly attach metal structures, how to install metal siding by hand, how to bypass windows, etc.

Some practical advice. Mounting step - 350-400 mm. Panels should move freely on self-tapping screws.

Video instruction - do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation

Very detailed instructions on vinyl siding.

The fastening of the crate, sealing, hardware geometry, do-it-yourself installation process, allowable gaps, type of components, bypassing corners are intelligibly shown.

This video demonstrates how you can turn a nondescript house with vinyl siding into a "candy".

If something is not clear after viewing, then here is a brief siding installation algorithm.

• First, the technical elements are installed: starting strip, H-butt strips, J-profiles for window decoration, corner elements. In this case, the starting strip must be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

• Fasteners - galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

• "Angles" at first move freely on the upper hardware.

• All self-tapping screws are not tightened to the stop by 1 turn to compensate for thermal expansion.

• After connecting the siding panels to the lock, it is enough just to press them to the base and fix them.

The modern market of building and finishing materials presents a huge selection of solutions for home cladding. One of the leaders in this segment is vinyl siding. The material has many advantages, among which an important advantage is the ability to quickly self-attach panels to the surface to be lined.

Siding is made in the form of panels with a thickness of about 1 mm. The length and width are not standardized and may vary depending on the manufacturer, which is an added advantage - you can choose the size of the panels that best suits your situation.

Advantages

Among the main advantages of vinyl siding special attention deserve the following:

• affordable cost;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to adverse influences. Panels endure exposure sunlight and various atmospheric precipitation;
• long service life. With proper installation and proper care, high-quality vinyl siding does not lose its visual appeal and original appearance. operational properties for 50 years or more;
• no need for pre-treatment. Vinyl siding will not rot or rust;
• large selection of colors and textures. Both simple colored panels and vinyl siding that successfully imitate wood are available for sale. a natural stone and other materials, which allows you to translate into reality the most daring design ideas;
• the ability to perform cladding in any weather;
• no need to use difficult-to-handle and hard-to-reach tools for cutting and fixing panels.

Flaws

Like any other existing finishing material Vinyl siding has certain disadvantages, among which it is necessary to consider the following points:

• low resistance to mechanical stress. Impacts, excessive pressure and other similar impacts vinyl panels do not tolerate. However, if necessary, damaged elements can be easily replaced with new ones;
• requirement for installation. Although the panels are very easy to attach, the installer needs to follow a series of important rules about fixing panels, sealing gaps, etc.

Surface preparation

Before installing vinyl siding, you do not have to perform any super-complicated preparatory operations.

First of all, fix any existing defects. Get rid of mold, rot and other damage.

In the presence of facade plaster either completely remove it, or additionally fix it. Get rid of the old cladding (panels, tiles, stone, etc.).

Lathing and insulation installation

Proceed to the installation of the crate. If you decide to mount the siding horizontally, fix the crate vertically, and vice versa.

Traditionally, the crate is assembled from wooden bars with a section of 5x5 cm. If the house is built of brick or concrete blocks, you can assemble the crate from a metal profile - as you prefer.

Choose the step of placing the battens of the crate individually according to the width of the insulation boards. If the walls are insulated, the crate will have to be doubled. The first under a heater, the second directly under a siding. Place the bottom crate perpendicular to the top.

First step. Place the battens of the crate in accordance with the recommendations received earlier. To fix the elements, use self-tapping screws or other convenient fasteners.

Second step. Cover the crate with a vapor barrier membrane film. For fixing the film, it is most convenient to use construction stapler with staples.

Third step. Lay the insulation in the cells of the crate. Mineral wool insulation is perfect.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with a waterproofing film. To fix the film to the crate, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Fifth step. Stuff the insulation boards with perpendicular vinyl siding boards.

To assemble the crates for siding, use bars or a metal profile - as you prefer. In most cases, working with a bar is easier and faster.

In the case of using wood, pre-treat it with a high-quality antiseptic. Additionally, it is recommended to process all wooden elements flame retardant.

The wooden beam must be dry. Otherwise, the wood is deformed during the drying process and the crate, as well as the finish fixed to it, will lead. The metal profile is devoid of these shortcomings, so professionals most often prefer the metal crate.

Additionally fasten profiles around all openings.

Siding Installation Guide

Self-installation of vinyl siding is carried out in several simple steps. Work according to the manual and everything will definitely work out.

The first step is to determine the starting point

Inspect the building before finishing work. Think about where you will start attaching the panels. If the house already had a cladding, you can mount a new coating in accordance with the features of the placement of the previous finish. In the case of new buildings, the starting row of panels must be fixed so that they overlap the top edge. concrete base Houses.

Draw a straight marking line for mounting the starting horizontal row of panels. A plumb line and a marker will help you with this.

The second step is the installation of accessories

In the process of decorating your home with vinyl siding, you will need to install a variety of additional accessories such as trim elements, corner panels, starter strip, etc. Professionals recommend starting Finishing work with mounting accessories.

Set up the corner pieces first. There should be a small gap of about 5-6 mm between the top of the corner of the building and the cornice.

The third step - fixing the starting strip

It is very important to place the starting strip perfectly evenly - the quality of installation of all subsequent panels directly depends on this. Previously, you applied a horizontal marking line to the walls of the house. Set aside up from this line a distance equal to the width of the starting bar and draw a second straight line.

Attach the starter strip to the wall with self-tapping screws or nails. The siding panels have factory mounting holes. Drive the fasteners into these holes. Leave a gap of about 1-1.5 cm between adjacent panels.

Fourth step - insulation of window and door openings

Prepare panels for finishing openings - planks, ebbs, cashing elements, overlays. The stripes near the doors and windows of the strip should be joined at 45 degrees - it's more beautiful.

Fifth step - installation of facing panels

After completing the installation of all accessories, proceed to fixing the main panels. Finish finishing, starting from the starting strip, gradually moving in the direction from the bottom up.

Insert the siding panel into the starter strip. You can easily do this, because. panels initially have factory docking fasteners. Do not insert the panel "tightly" - it should be able to move slightly with temperature changes.

Line all the planned sections of the walls in the same way. Fasten the panels with nails or self-tapping screws every 40-45 cm. Leave a gap of 0.5-1 cm at the joints of individual panels.

Fasten panels around openings and pipes last. You can buy special cladding elements for difficult areas, or you can make the appropriate holes yourself.

Sixth step - installing the top wall edge

At the end, you will have to finish the upper wall edges. Be as careful as possible about this stage work. At the top of the walls, the profiles should be placed as you did when facing the space around the openings.

Under the roof, only whole siding strips can be used. Planks can only be cut for placement on gables.

For laying the last row, use a finishing strip or a special J-profile.

Thus, in self-mounting Vinyl siding is no big deal. Now you know the main stages and provisions of the technology for performing this cladding. To make the work as easy as possible, and the finished result to be of the highest quality, check out additional important tips.

Vinyl siding installation technology has important nuances, namely:

Follow the instructions, don't forget important recommendations, and you'll be able to clad your home with vinyl siding just as well as a professional repairman would.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation is a budgetary way to protect a residential or industrial building from the effects of external conditions. It is possible to carry it out independently by a person who has minimal skills in construction. The main thing at the same time: to adhere to the technology of work.

The frame on which the siding panels will be installed can be made of metal profile or wooden beam.

Metal crate

The finished structure will be more durable, stable and reliable. Metal rails are easier to fix on uneven surfaces.

The profile is fixed at a distance of 50 cm from each other; suspensions are used to connect it to the wall of the building. This technique helps to smooth out wall deviations, allowing you to assemble an even frame.

Wooden frame

This method is more affordable, but you will need to carefully study the material before buying. Usually bars with a section of 50 * 50 mm are used.

For the crate, you can not purchase wood that exfoliates or has traces of rot, deformation. Any damage will significantly reduce the life of the entire structure.

The installed frame must be carefully treated with protective impregnations to increase its resistance to decay, repel insects and reduce flammability.

Tools for the job

For self-assembly you will need:

• sharp knife or electric jigsaw for cutting vinyl parts;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• nails;
• roulette;
• hammer.

Calculation of the amount of materials

To find out the exact amount of materials that will be needed for work, you should measure the sheathed building.

The external surfaces of any structure can be divided into geometric figures: squares, rectangles, triangles. To facilitate the process, you can use this technique by first measuring the individual elements of the walls, and then adding the resulting values.

When calculating, it is important to remember that vinyl, like any PVC material, tends to change in size with an increase or decrease in temperature. environment. The degree of deviation can be almost 10 cm.

Therefore, it is important to consider this property facing material when drawing up a cladding plan. If this point is ignored, the finished structure will very soon lose its original appearance- the panels will warp or, conversely, between separate elements gaps are formed.

To prevent this from happening, before attaching vinyl siding, it is worth studying the installation recommendations.

Rules for installing vinyl siding

In order for the finished structure to be durable and not lose strength over time, you should:

1. During installation, fix the panels so that they can move freely.
2. Drive a nail exclusively into the center of the hole intended for it. It is impossible to fix the panel with a nail located at one of the ends of the hole - this can ruin the product. If it is necessary to drive it into the end (for example, if only in this area it can be connected to the lath of the crate), the hole must first be expanded using a puncher.
3. It is impossible to drive a nail to the end - there should be a distance of 1 mm between the panel and the cap.
4. The fasteners must be hammered in at a right angle, otherwise the lining elements may be bent.

Surface preparation

Any hanging elements - drains, platbands, lamps, doorbells, mailboxes and more - are removed from the walls.

After that, they carefully inspect their home: if there are traces of mold, large cracks and other defects on the walls, they are eliminated. old cladding walls (plaster, tiles, boards) are completely removed.

Lathing installation

Do-it-yourself installation of battens is carried out, taking into account the method of fastening the siding: a vertical frame is needed for horizontal fastening, and vice versa.

If at the same time as the cladding they plan to insulate the building, the crate is made double. In this case, the first frame should be perpendicular to the second, on which the siding will be installed. For example, if the sheathing will be fastened in a horizontal way, then the frame under it - the second one - should be vertical, and the first one, installed on the wall, should be horizontally directed.

The step of the crate is determined based on the width of the insulation of the plates.

Siding installation

If there is no experience in carrying out such work, a video instruction will help: after viewing it, it is easier to understand all the nuances of the process.

Finding the starting point

The final result will depend on the evenness of the position of the initial bar; close attention should be paid to this point.

Along the entire perimeter of the building, it is required to designate the installation line. By using building level find the lowest point on the crate, screw a self-tapping screw in this place.

Do the same around the perimeter of the house. A thread is fixed on the first self-tapping screw, stretched along the perimeter, returning to the starting mark.

Using the cord as a reference line, fix the J-profile. At the same time, an indent of 6 mm is left at the corners. The profiles themselves are fixed at a distance of 10 mm from each other so that they do not warp when the temperature changes.

Installation of corner external and internal profiles

Before installing these elements, soffits are first installed or their locations are marked.

The corner profile is applied to the corner of the crate with the expectation that between its end and the soffit there is a free space of 3 mm. The bottom edge should protrude 6 mm below the starting bar. Fix the part using self-tapping screws.

Using the level, make sure that the profile is in a strictly vertical position. The rest are fixed in the same way.

The process of installing internal profiles is no different from installing external ones.

Framing door and window openings

If the openings are located in the same plane with the wall of the building, a j-profile is installed along their perimeter.

Profile connection order:

1. Bridge cuts are made on the upper profile at each end.
2. Bend them down. The resulting hole is designed to drain precipitation from the top part to the bottom.
3. Cuts are made on the side profiles so that the part can be tightly fitted to the upper profile.
4. Assemble the structure.

By the same principle, make the lower part of the frame.

Installation of the first row and extension of panels

Step by step instructions for installing vinyl siding:

1. Work starts from the rear of the house - here possible mistakes beginners will not be so noticeable.
2. The panel is inserted into the lock of the initial bar, at the same time leading its end into the corner profile. At the same time, it is important to maintain a distance of 6 mm (summer) or 9 mm (winter) from the bottom of the corner profile lock.
3. Building panels is carried out by overlapping or using the H-profile. In the first case, the locks and mounting frames are cut so that when the parts are installed, an overlap of 2.5 cm is formed. The H-profile is installed in the same way as the corner profiles - departing from the spotlights by 3 mm and going beyond the level of the initial bar by 6 mm.

The remaining panels are mounted either around the perimeter, or separately sheathed for each wall. This does not affect the final result.

At this stage, the evenness of the work is checked every 3 rows. To install a row interrupted by an opening, the panel adjacent to it is cut to the desired size. Another finishing profile is installed in the lower part of the frame of the window opening - so the siding will be aligned in the plane.

Roof siding installation

Almost completed siding in the area adjacent to the roof is fastened with a J- or finishing profile.

First, a profile is fixed along the perimeter of the house under the roof. After that, the distance remaining between the bottom of the J-profile lock and the lock of the penultimate row of panels is measured. 2 mm is subtracted from the obtained value (the norm of the technological indent).

Points are marked on the vinyl panel (so that the lock is also removed during the cut), draw a line, cut off the excess. Make hooks, bend them to the outside of the element. If this moment causes difficulties, and it is difficult to repeat it with your own hands, the video will help you figure it out.

Insert the prepared panel, fix it in the J-profile lock, slightly pushing it up.

This guide will help you install vinyl siding yourself.

Sheathing siding refers to dry types exterior finish and is suitable for most types of residential and commercial buildings, especially foam concrete and sandwich panels. Its light weight will not exert a significant load on the foundation, so this cladding is also used on old wooden houses.

The growing popularity of siding is explained not only by its low price, but also by its durability, because it will not crumble like plaster over time, simple care, excellent protective properties and a wide choice of shades and textures. The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can give a modern look even to an old house with your own hands, significantly saving on the services of builders.

Before sheathing a house with siding, you should check the availability of the following tools:

• or saw with fine teeth, metal scissors,
• screwdriver and screwdriver
• hammer,
• tape measure, square and level (laser tape measure will greatly simplify the work),
• a stepladder, the height of which will be enough to reach the roof of the house.

Siding manufacturers offer a complete set of elements and panels for house cladding, even of complex configurations. As a rule, the buyer should indicate the area of ​​​​the walls of the house and their dimensions, the type of roof and the number of windows, and the seller himself will calculate required amount certain parts, a schematic plan of the house from the outside will facilitate this process.

Knowing some points will help to control or verify the calculation. So, the components for installing siding include the following elements:

• Outer corner - the height of this element is 3 m, and if the house is one-story, it is worth using whole elements for each outer corner of the house; if the height of the walls is more than 3 m, then sum up the length of all external corners in meters and divide it by 3, taking into account that there should be a margin for margin when docking. Corners are used not only with decorative purpose, but also due to the fact that the ends of the siding must be closed.
• Internal angles are calculated according to the same principle. If the roof eaves will be trimmed with siding, they are also used in the areas of its connection with the wall. internal corners. In cases where the eaves were finished earlier or will not be done at all, a finishing strip is used.
• To finish the cornice, elements such as spotlights and a wind board are used.
• The required length of the starting bar is equal to the perimeter of the house minus the width of the doors and gables.
• At the connection sites of extensions, height differences and roofs of different levels, a J-profile is used.
• The perimeter of the windows is sheathed with a window strip, it must be taken with a margin so that the docking points are not visible. Also, to frame windows, ebbs are needed, which also should not have visible joints.
• A drain strip or ebbs are installed around the perimeter of the basement if its width of 40 cm is not enough.
• If the length of the wall of the house is more than 3.66 m - the standard length of siding panels - the connection is made using an H-profile. It is necessary to think over the places of its installation so that the proportions of the building are preserved.
• The number of siding panels themselves is approximately calculated by the formula: "((the area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls of the house - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors) / panel area) * 1.10". A margin of 10% is needed for trimming and scrap costs.
• For installation, it is preferable to use galvanized self-tapping screws 25-35 mm long, since their use makes it easier to maintain the recommended gap of 1 mm. For 1 sq.m. about 2 self-tapping screws are consumed, they should also be taken with a margin. If possible, then you should choose self-tapping screws with a rubberized head, from which there will definitely not be rusty smudges in a few years.

Preparatory work

Before sheathing siding, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. First, all protruding parts are dismantled: doors, trim, grilles, etc. Close up or mounting foam all the cracks in the walls, around windows and doors. The walls of the old house are cleaned of dirt and dust, chipped plaster and paint, mold and rotten areas. Wooden houses treated with antiseptics and antipyretics, foam concrete walls can be treated with a deep penetration primer.

Lathing installation

The first step is to mount the crate from a metal profile or wooden slats, since it is absolutely impossible to mount the panels directly to the wall. Galvanized profile is the only option for metal siding and for brick and concrete walls. As a profile, you can use a CD-profile for drywall. If the vinyl profile is attached to a wooden or frame house, you can use slats 60 * 40 mm with a residual moisture content of 15-20%, treated with an antiseptic and thoroughly dried.

Using a tape measure and a level, mark straight lines on the walls of the house so as to obtain a closed contour. Having carefully measured the distance in the corners of the house from this line to the base, they find the minimum, and, putting it down, draw another contour. In the future, a starting bar is installed along this line, and if it deviates from the level, the cladding panels will warp.

Then, using U-shaped fasteners, vertical guides are mounted, starting from the corners. It is necessary to achieve their snug fit to the wall, for which you can put pieces of wood or dense foam. The distance between them is 30-40 cm, in those places where the siding will have an additional load, such as street lamps, as well as around corners, windows and doors, you need to add guides. Vertical rails should not be connected to anything so that there are no obstructions to ventilation, since the lack of air flow will lead to mold.

Waterproofing and insulation

for wooden, aerated concrete walls installation is required, and a layer of insulation is optional. As a material, it is worth giving preference to a moisture-windproof membrane. If insulation is not being done, then the film is fixed directly on the wall of the house in order to maintain the distance necessary for the ventilation of the siding. When installing an insulating layer, waterproofing is laid on top of it, and then the crate is re-built to provide a gap for ventilation.

Fastening guide elements

Installation begins with the installation of a drainage system on the base, placing its upper edge along the previously marked line. This is a rigid structure and is easier to fix evenly than a flexible starting bar. Then turn corner profiles. They must be firmly fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the first hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the hole.

If it is necessary to increase the length, the upper profile should be overlapped on the lower one with an overlap of several centimeters. After that, along the previously marked line, a starting bar is attached on top of the drainage. It should be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

Window strips or J-profiles are attached around the windows so that the outer lower edge is a few centimeters lower than the inner one. Door openings are edged with J-profiles. The corners of these elements can be cut at 45 degrees, or they can be overlapped by laying top slats on the side.

At vertical installation H-profiles in predetermined places, a level is used. As with the installation of other vertical elements, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5-6 mm to the eaves and plinth so that the planks do not bend when expanding. Under the roof or where the area provided for siding ends, the finishing bar is mounted.

Panel installation

When all the guide elements are installed, you can proceed directly to the installation of panels. The first row is attached to the starting bar until the lock clicks from below, at the top the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws in the center of the oblong holes every 40 cm. All other panels are installed according to the same principle, row by row rising to the roof or window. Do not pull the panel up and fix it rigidly, it should go a little to the sides. The top row of siding is finished with a finishing bar.

What should be taken into account?

Rule number 1. Under no circumstances should siding panels be rigidly fixed. The material from which they are made shrinks when cold and expands when heated, fluctuations in length can reach 1%. This is what caused the elongated shape of the mounting holes. Fasteners cannot be screwed or driven through the panel, but only into the center of a special hole, and the screw is not screwed in all the way, with a gap of 1 mm between the plates and the cap. If this rule is violated, the siding can simply burst with strong heat.

Rule number 2. There should be a gap of about 10 mm between the slats and the guides (less when installed in hot weather) so that the siding does not buckle when expanded. When sheathing a house in the summer, it is worth protecting the material from the sun.

Rule number 3. Siding can be installed at any time of the year, but it should be noted that at temperatures below -10 degrees, the elements can crack when cut, so you should be careful and use a grinder.

With the help of siding, subject to the rules and installation technology, you can update the house and protect it from atmospheric influences for 30-40 years, this is exactly the service life that manufacturers promise.

The main difficulties in carrying out facing work using siding are surface preparation and fastening of the facing material.

In fact, even an unprepared person can easily handle mounting and installation.

Of course, one cannot do without knowledge of the technology, so in this material we will consider in detail how to fix vinyl siding and what is required for this.

Siding is used for exterior finish walls of residential buildings and industrial buildings. In addition to an attractive appearance, this cladding has excellent functional properties, such as durability, resistance to temperature and moisture.

If you need to update the appearance of the front part or mask its flaws, siding is the right solution.

Subject to the technology, the surface of the walls will be reliably protected from moisture.

This finish is great for regions with a relatively aggressive climate, such as in Russia. Material tests were carried out in laboratory conditions, the material proved its strength in practice - after all, it has been mass-produced for several years.

In terms of care, the material is quite unpretentious - during operation you will not have to deal with it every year. painting work or impregnate the material with special liquids. The vinyl surface is easy to clean with a jet of water from a hose or a damp cloth.

Choosing the right size

To begin with, you should purchase the material of the desired color and size. Six-meter panels are usually used for facade cladding - after them there is much less waste, since such a panel can be easily divided into products the right sizes. The price plays a significant role in choosing a siding. One square meter costs from 180 to 200 rubles.

To date, the range of textures and color options varies over a very wide range. The main manufacturers have in their assortment both one-color panels and textured ones that imitate wood, stone or brick.

How to calculate the amount of material

After choosing the material you need in terms of color and texture, you will have the building necessary for sheathing. To do this, it is convenient to use the scheme of the walls of the house - you can draw it yourself, it is not necessary to follow any standards for this. Measure the lengths and heights of all walls, and calculate their area using the formula S = a x b, where a is the length, b is the height.

When calculating, you can use these formulas

Next, you should add up all the areas obtained - this way you will find out how much material you need to purchase to finish the walls. Yes, it is important not to forget to subtract from the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls the areas of door and window openings You don't have to cover them with siding.

Since the whole house, including the pediment, is usually trimmed with this cladding, its area must also be measured. To do this, measure the length of the base and the height of the triangle from the middle of the base to the top. The area of ​​a triangle is calculated using the formula S = ½ x a x h (half the length of the base by the height).

Adding up the areas of the rectangular walls and the triangular gables will give you the total area that will be covered with siding. After all calculations have been made, the most accurate amount of material can be purchased, thus minimizing costs.

Where to start fixing siding

Before proceeding with the main work on installing and fixing the cladding, you should prepare the following tools:

Before attaching the panels, you should also clean the walls of weeds and plants, remove all the decorations from the walls, remove the lanterns and drainpipes. If there are any other structures on the facade that may interfere with installation, they should also be removed.

If there are rotten boards on the walls, you need to replace them with new ones, and treat undamaged wood with an antiseptic. Despite the fact that all the flaws will be hidden by the finish, it is still better to eliminate the possibility of further destruction of the wood.

Shutters, window sills, protruding structures around windows and doors must also be dismantled. After clean walls remain on the outside of the house, you can check them for verticality using a level.

Lathing installation

Sheathing made of wooden beams

If the deviations of the walls from the vertical are less than 1 cm, and the walls themselves are in perfect condition, the crate can be omitted. For old buildings, most likely the walls have already been deformed and one cannot do without the crate. So, to start installing the crates, you need to prepare tools and install scaffolding.

The crate can be made of slats and boards. Reiki are attached to the walls with 10 cm nails. They are nailed at distances of 30-40 cm from each other. Before you start nailing boards and slats on all surfaces, you should nail a few starting ones at the corners of the walls, as well as around door and window openings. Insulation boards are laid between the laths of the crate. It can be foam or mineral wool.

When installing metal frame you can use these settings

In the case of using metal, the siding profile is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws to pre-installed brackets.

The siding will be secured with nails or self-tapping screws. In any case, the fasteners must be coated with an anti-corrosion coating. It is more convenient to fix the siding on self-tapping screws, using an automatic screwdriver with a reverse. Simply screwing self-tapping screws in semi-automatic mode is much easier than hammering nails.

The presence of a reverse screwdriver will allow you to quickly create temperature gaps - just unscrew each screw one turn so that the panels do not deform under the influence of thermal expansion.

Fixing vinyl panels

To fix the starting strip, you need:

In addition to installation horizontal panels, you need to somehow finish the windows and corners. There are special accessories for this.

Installation of corners will give the facade a finished look and, more importantly, protect the house from moisture getting under the siding from the outside. The peculiarity of fastening the corner elements is such that they must overlap the horizontal siding by 1 cm. Again, the structures should not adjoin each other, you need to leave a small distance between them.

The fastening of horizontal panels ends with the installation of a finishing rail - it has a decorative edging, as a result of which the siding acquires a beautifully contoured look.

Next, a soffit is attached - there is no need to save on this element, since it has an important functional feature. Holes in it are needed for air circulation and ventilation of the facade. Without good ventilation, moisture will begin to stagnate between the siding and the walls.

After getting acquainted with the technology, it remains only to perform all the actions described in the article. As you can see, all the difficulties arise even immediately before the siding itself is attached.

Installing the panels, on the other hand, is reminiscent of assembling a constructor, and when performing sequential actions, it will not pose any particular problems. In case the technology described above is not entirely clear, we suggest watching a video on how to properly fix the siding: