Do-it-yourself compressor - at minimal cost from scrap metal. Do you know how to assemble an air compressor from improvised materials? What to make a compressor

Good afternoon In this article, using the example of my compressor assembly, I want to show the method of building compressors from available parts for model airbrushing.

Main elements

The first step is to draw up the technical requirements for our fruit of goblin engineering.
Since I purchased a new double action airbrush, a compressor with a receiver was needed. The fact is that, unlike a single action airbrush, the new airbrush is able to control the air flow, lock it, and open the air duct. In European countries, many people use such an airbrush along with a separate compressed air cylinder, disposable or reusable, we leave the economic side of this matter aside. Air tank - receiver- allows you to collect air like such a balloon. If air is continuously injected into the air duct hose, then at some point the fitting may not withstand and the hose will fly out. To get a blown out hose on any part of the body is very painful and unpleasant. And so - the airbrush uses air from a cylinder. So, a double action airbrush involves the use of a receiver. We will return to it later.

The main thing is actually compressor. We will use a refrigerator compressor. Like a "pot" - because, compressors of the "cylinder" type can no longer be found during the day with fire, and they are all old. We decide on the choice of compressor using various sites for the sale of refrigeration equipment. Probably, their price will be the main criterion, since their air injection parameters are approximately equal. Some are stronger, some are weaker. On purchase - you can go to the store yourself, you can order delivery if they do not have a retail store and they work only on the Internet. Before ordering, we look at the compressor model, and write out the name of the company that produces it, you can use ctrl + c, you can use a piece of paper. And go to the manufacturer's website. The manufacturer of the compressor that I got is Danfoss, on their website you can download a pdf-file with a technical description of the compressor. Download MOT necessarily, we need it!

Let's go back to the receiver. The receiver should be a container designed to contain gases or liquids under high pressure. It is desirable that it meets the requirements of GOST. I’ll make a reservation right away - a plastic bottle, plastic tanks, tanks and canisters do NOT belong to such things. Their use is a flagrant violation of safety regulations! Consider containers:

Option one- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. A good option, tested, holds up to 10 atm. Very wide choose capacities - 3,5,10 l. - just enough to get (you can buy, you can get "exhausted"). However, it has one significant disadvantage - a metric thread at the inlet. I used exactly that.

Option two- hydraulic accumulator. A decent choice of capacity, however has a small working pressure. At the entrance - a convenient 1 inch thread. Requires fine-tuning before use, because inside it is divided into a membrane containing carbon dioxide, which holds water under pressure. It needs to be pulled out. Get it - just buy it in a construction hypermarket or at a construction market.

Option three- oxygen balloon. Some samples can hold a huge amount of atmospheres, however, either cylinders with an extremely small capacity, or heavy, massive ones for welding work are available, and it is extremely difficult to get other options. But if you get any of the medical equipment (I'm afraid it's very expensive ), you can arrange an oxygen bar before assembly !!! =)))

Option four- cylinders from various gases (propane, etc.) - easy to get, otherwise similar to a fire extinguisher. However, they say that the use of compressed air is not recommended.

Connecting links between reducer and receiver, air preparation unit

Now that the compressor and what will be the receiver are defined, it is necessary to think about how they will be connected, and how compressed air will flow to the airbrush.
The first is the node that is attached directly to the receiver and provides air distribution between the lines (it should be mentioned that one of its main characteristics is compatibility with the connector on the receiver, I will mention screwing methods later).
The second is a pressure switch. The pressure switch must ensure that the compressor is turned off when a certain pressure in the receiver is reached, and turn it on when the pressure drops to a minimum value. As a pressure switch - the best option is the RDM-5 relay for plumbing systems. It is very easy to find, it is sold in most plumbing stores. It is necessary to pay attention - connecting element RDM-5 is designed for an external thread of 1 inch.

Thirdly, it is necessary to indicate the pressure in the receiver. We buy a pressure gauge with a measurement limit of 10 atm. These have a connection size of 1. Important - you need a static device.

The fourth is an air preparation unit. A certain pressure must be applied to the hose leading to the airbrush. Therefore, a reducer is needed. The reducer must have a pressure regulation limit from zero to 8-10 atmospheres. Also, it is necessary that a pressure gauge be attached to it in order to see the value adjustable pressure and an oil separator filter. Since, even particles of compressor oil can fly from the receiver. Attention - in no case do not buy a filter lubricator - it performs a diametrically opposite function.

Fifth - Consumables, fittings, turns, tees. The main size of the fittings is 1 inch, in order to calculate their number, it is necessary to build a diagram of the air distribution and preparation unit. In addition to them, we will need several adapters from 1 to 1 inches, external and internal.
After looking at all the details and assemblies, we will make a drawing of how it will all look assembled, for example, like this:

Now let's think about the placement of the whole structure. As an option - ordinary chipboard plates. In order not to drag the entire structure around the apartment of the garage workshop with matyugs, we will provide roller legs that are easy to find in any furniture store. So that the installation does not take up much space, I decided to place everything on two floors. To make it easier to work in the future, we will draw the following scheme:

You will need either very long M8 bolts or short studs. Also nuts and washers.
Now, to summarize the planning stage, let's write a list of required materials.

Compressor - 1 pc.
Receiver (fire extinguisher) 1 pc.
Pressure switch - 1 pc.
Manometer - 1 pc.
Filter reducer - 1 pc.
Emergency valve -1pc.
Fittings, adapters - based on the selected scheme
Various plumbing gaskets, fum tape, sealant.
Cables, switch, plug + various small things for their installation and connection.
Flexible hose (preferably oil-resistant) with a diameter that matches the outer diameter of the air outlet fitting on the compressor.
Chipboard-plate for the stand, 4 roller legs, 4 M8x25 bolts or M8 studs, nuts, washers and other small hardware, as well as various tools.

Let's start assembling!

Compressor assembly

So, running around the shops is over, we have drawn a diagram, we are starting a vertex =). The first difficulty - which I encountered - was the node at the outlet of the fire extinguisher. There are several options here - dismantle the assembly, and find a welder to weld the desired fitting adapter. Due to haste, I did not want to look for someone, so I acted simply - I unscrewed part of the valve (leaving the internal mechanics, removed the control element). An adapter came up to one of the outputs with internal thread 1 inch, screwed the adapter from 1 to 38 into another with a creak. Hand on heart - this (and, in fact, like the entire receiver) was done in violation of the rules for the operation of pressure vessels. Still, it’s better to weld a new adapter with high quality (which, of course, is also not quite according to the rules ...).

The first stage of assembling the compressor is simple - we arm ourselves with a water pipe wrench, fum-tape, sealant (attention, it subsequently freezes - if you want to do it for centuries - do not regret it!), And we twist the adapters according to the plan planned in advance. Important note - in order to ensure hermetic connection it is not necessary to wrap everything “to a creak” - according to the law of meanness - tees and turns will never get on desired angle. We mount a reducer, a pressure gauge, a pressure switch, an adapter for a flexible hose. Each stage of the process must necessarily be accompanied by fitting to the receiver-fire extinguisher.

Carpenter versus carpenter

"Viper with wheels here ku!"
kf "Kin-dza-dza"

The second stage of assembly is carpentry work. I took ready-made chipboard plates “from stocks” and screwed furniture wheels on self-tapping screws to them, having previously drilled seats for them with a thin drill (this way they are screwed exactly in place and much easier). Be sure to ride the newly made product around the apartment (you need to check it! =)) - you are guaranteed attention and an interested reaction from your family (from the category of bad advice, it would be worth leaving a postscript “never repeat this on your own”). Since I was making a two-level stand, the next step was to mark and drill holes for the studs. Approximately in the middle of each stud, I screwed the nuts, measured the perforated tape with a margin (so that it turned out to be a “bed” for the fire extinguisher) and lifted the latter to the place intended for it.
Attention!!! Be sure to cover all the bitten places of the punched tape with electrical tape or other soft material to avoid the possibility of injury, or process it so that there are no sharp edges and burrs.

After positioning the fire extinguisher, I put two more perforated tapes on top and fixed it with nuts.
If you use a prepared accumulator as a receiver, then most of the small (5, 6, 8 l.) models of the “horizontal” type have wonderful brackets-paws at the bottom and top. The lower ones can be screwed to the base, and the compressor can be placed on the upper ones.

In my case, which I use as an example, the structure consists of two levels. The “second floor” of the structure must be prepared before installation. We find suitable holes on the compressor feet (there are a lot of them), and, maintaining the geometry, we mark and drill them on the “second floor”. It's okay if the holes are slightly larger than the diameter of the bolts (I used M8), wherever necessary I used wide washers. We mount the “second floor” plate, looking at the diagram that we talked about in the first part.
We put the compressor. In order to reduce vibration, it is necessary to provide some damping elements. I adapted ordinary plumbing silicone gaskets as them, building a kind of shock absorber out of them. We fix the compressor, do not forget to put washers.

We try on the air distribution module to the receiver. If something rests, or is simply poorly located, the design can be changed. After fitting - fasten. Using a flexible hose, fum-tape and clamps, we connect the outlet of the compressor and the inlet of the air preparation unit. The clamps must be tightened well, ensuring a snug fit of the hose - otherwise it can poison and splash oil on the compressor side, and poison air on the side of the air distribution module.

I sing the electric body. Final touches and...

"Mahmud, set fire!"
kf "White Sun of the Desert"

First, a little theory about the motor used by the compressor. The compressor, which we consider as an example, uses a single-phase asynchronous machine as a drive. Therefore, to run it, you need different auxiliary devices. In our case, this is a starting winding with a capacitor. Carefully read the instructions for the compressor! The types of devices that provide starting the drive can vary greatly between models.
Now the most important thing - you need to work with the connection diagram of the installation. There are several pitfalls here:

The compressor is torn out of the usual wiring diagram. To make it work, you need to install a jumper.
It is advisable to provide protective elements (circuit breaker) - a moot point, in principle, in case of any excesses, the machine should work on the group of sockets to which the compressor is connected - it is not necessary to install another machine, in my opinion.
The connection line must necessarily go through the relay and the switch.
Sometimes, a capacitor must be connected to the compressor. It depends on its type. Be sure to check the specifications and manual for the compressor you are using.

The connection must be made according to the following scheme:

From the plug-plug we lead the phase wire (L) to the switch. Next, connect the phase wire to the desired relay terminal. The neutral wire (N) remains intact, if there is a ground wire, if the latter is not present, we connect the neutral wire to the ground terminal of the relay (protective grounding is obtained), from the relay we lead the phase and neutral wires to the starting device for the compressor drive (the box is it on the case), and according to the diagram we connect to the corresponding terminals. It turns out something like this:

General view of the connection diagram. RDM-5 relay connection diagram. Please note - we use the L1 terminal to connect the phase, as well as the corresponding terminal on the top block - from it the wire will go to the compressor. L2 is not used! Also, in no case do not connect the pads to each other - then the relay will not work.

From an ordinary plug (cable 2.5 mm2), through a switch, to a pressure switch (it says where to connect what) and to the compressor. The cable at the plug can be of two types - with earth, phase and zero if your house is new, or simply with phase and zero if the house is old. In principle, you can not take a steam bath, and bring the earth to the neutral conductor, as is done in old houses.
So, now, in order for the system to work, we will install a jumper. It is installed directly on the starter terminal block. soldering is best, but you can use crimp contacts of a suitable type (they are indicated in the description of the compressor). The jumper is shown in blue:

Jumper wiring diagram in the starting device.
This jumper is very important, as it provides the connection of the windings to the phase.
At the end, carefully lay the cables using plastic ties and self-adhesive pads for them. Carefully inspect the cables for insulation integrity, and check each connection for mechanical strength. Check carefully for potential short circuits - each wire must be carefully stripped and have contact only with the terminal intended for it.

Now - we check everything, run it, and start painting the models! =)

In contact with

Many people know that it is possible to assemble a compressor from an old refrigerator, moreover, in a home workshop, without any special skills. But not everyone knows the technology and secrets. If you think about it, an air compressor can be useful in any garage, workshop and household. With it, you can paint the car, pump up the wheels, run any pneumatic tool. Even blowing off the dust is also useful. Consider the version for painting.

Installation Requirements

Painting is a responsible business. Such a compressor must meet a number of requirements. The main one is a uniform air supply, and without foreign bodies. The most undesirable defects on the paintwork are graininess, shagreen, cavities on the surface. If the air flow is not stable, all this will take place, including matte spots and streaks. Specialized branded compressors have everything you need to eliminate the slightest marriage. But the price is skyrocketing.

Buy a unit or build it yourself?

Therefore, it makes sense to make a compressor for painting a car yourself. To do this, it is worth studying in detail the device and the principle of operation of a real, factory compressor. And it is the same for all samples. The balloon is under high pressure. The method of air injection is not fundamental - it can be mechanical or with the help of hands. In the case of manual supply, we significantly save finances, but where can we find a slave capable of continuously pumping air. The automatic process will eliminate many shortcomings and problems. The exception is the oil change in the compressor. Only the mechanism is capable of continuously supplying a jet of air to the cylinder! The theory is simple, making a personal compressor station with your own hands is simple and fast.

Compressor from the chamber of the car

How to make a paint rig out of a simple car camera? List of required material:

pump with pressure gauge for blower function,
car camera for receiver function,
awl,
repair tool kit
nipple from a car camera.

A difficult stage is the creation of a compressor station. The chamber should be checked for leaks. She is being pumped up. If there is an air leak, the problem is solved by gluing or vulcanizing raw rubber. Then a hole is pierced with an awl. We place a nipple in it for a uniform exit of the air flow. The auxiliary fitting is fixed by gluing. Will actively help to cope with this work repair kit. Then the fitting is attached to the spray gun. To control the exit of the air stream, the nipple is unscrewed.

But it is noteworthy that the old nipple is not removed. It will act as a valve and hold excess pressure. The control check of the pressure value is carried out by spraying the coloring matter onto the metal surface. If the paint lays down in an even layer, then the installation is functioning perfectly! Additional control of the pressure value can be checked with a pressure gauge. The air flow even after turning on the aerator key must be spasmodic!

Building a home compressor is easy. And painting a car after using it will become better than using a spray can. When working at home, you should avoid the penetration of dust, foreign bodies, water into the car chamber. These things can penetrate the spray gun and the painting will have to be repeated. At correct operation our unit will work for a long time, and it is desirable to automate air injection.

Masters often noticed that a homemade compressor can last much longer than a factory one. And regardless - domestic or imported. A hand-made thing has positive energy. It is easier to repair and maintain because you know it very well. weak sides and design.

Compressor from an old refrigerator

The unit, made from the components of an ancient refrigerator, will not be inferior in operation to compressors elite manufacturers. To build it you will need:

manometer,
rust remover,
compressor receiver,
threaded adapters,
relay for quality control of flow pressure force in our compressor,
filter fuel element for gasoline,
oil moisture separating filter and its reducer,
the engine that drives the machine,
cross with 3/4 inch thread for water pipes,
switch for voltage 220 V,
sealant,
engine oil brand 10W40,
brass pipes,
oil hose,
simple syringe,
thicker board,
metal paint,
filter element of the power supply system for a diesel engine,
furniture wheels,
file,
pins, nuts, washers,
fum tape,
automotive clamps.

As a motor, a compressor unit from a rare scoop refrigerator can be useful. The compressor from the refrigerator in our example is the most optimal solution. It has one great advantage - the compressor start relay! Very old Soviet models have an advantage over foreign competitors. They are capable of delivering very high pressure. When assembling, it is required to carefully remove rust from the executive unit.

The rust converter will be able to perform a quality treatment of the compressor and prevent further oxidation. This will simultaneously prepare the body of the working engine for painting. Then move on to changing the oil. It's clear that old refrigerator if it has been serviced, it has been for a very long time. This also applies to changing the oil in it. But there is also an excuse for such a situation - the system is absolutely completely isolated from the environment. Suitable semi-synthetic oil. This modern lubricant is no worse than compressor oil in its properties. It will do the job remarkably well - it has a lot of high-quality and effective additives. On the compressor housing we find 3 tubes: two of them are open, the rest is hermetically sealed. We supply power to the compressor unit and determine the nature and direction of movement of the air flow. It is better to immediately record or mark the intake and exhaust duct.

A sealed tube is needed to change the oil. We remove it with a needle file, making a notch along the circumference of the tube. It is important to prevent metal chips from getting inside the compressor. We break off the tube and completely drain the oil into a container that will allow us to determine its volume. Using a simple medical syringe, we pour semi-synthetics, and with a larger volume than poured out!

After filling, the lubrication system of the motor is muffled. A suitable screw is selected and sealed with fum tape. It should be remembered that oil in the form of droplets will sometimes penetrate from the air outlet tube. An oil separator for the compressor will save you from this. The assembly of the installation begins with strengthening the motor with a start relay on a wooden base. It should be in the same position as on the frame. The correct switching of operating modes depends on the correct installation and installation of the compressor!

Receiver

How to make a receiver? It is good to use a cylinder from a simple fire extinguisher. It perfectly withstands a lot of pressure and has a good margin of safety. The cylinder is an excellent outlet for attached process equipment. As a basis, you can take a fire extinguisher brand OU-10 with a volume of 9.99 liters. It is able to withstand pressure up to 16 MPa. We unscrew the locking-starting mechanism from our workpiece and screw in the adapter. If we find corrosion, we will ruthlessly remove it. It is difficult to remove internal rust; for this, we fill the rust converter into the container of the cylinder and chat the contents. After cleaning is completed, screw the cross for the water supply.

A wooden board will be a good basis for mounting the motor and fire extinguisher body. It is desirable to place all working parts and assemblies on one line. Threaded studs will serve as fasteners, they must be threaded into the holes obtained by drilling. You will need nuts and washers. After taking the receiver and placing it vertically. You will need 3 sheets of plywood. One sheet is for a through hole for a cylinder. The remaining 2 sheets are fastened with screws to the main board and glued to the sheet that holds the receiver. At the base of the tree, a recess is made for the bottom of the receiver. To move the unit, we attach furniture wheels.

The system should be protected from dust with a gasoline coarse fuel filter. It will act as an air intake. A rubber hose and an inlet tube from the supercharger will come in handy. At the inlet, the air pressure is very low, clamps are not useful. An oil separator is installed at the outlet to block liquid drops. A filter element of the power system is suitable (in simple terms, a filter). Will need clamps for the car. The oil dehumidifier is connected to the input of the gearbox, and the output is screwed into the crosspiece already prepared by us on the left side. A pressure gauge is screwed on the right side to monitor the pressure. And on top of the cross we screw the relay for adjustment.

System pressure adjustment

The control relay allows you to set the desired range or limit of the receiver pressure. And at the required moment, interrupt the power supply circuit of the system supercharger. In the form of an executing unit, it is advised to use RDM-5. With its help, the compressor will start when the air pressure in the tank drops below the required value and turn off if the parameters are above the allowable values. The required amount of air flow is adjusted on the relay using a pair of springs. The task of a large spring is to make weak pressure. And a small spring allows you to adjust the upper limit and set the final limit for turning off the entire compressor installation.

RDM-5 was designed for water supply lines. In reality, this is a simple two-prong switch. In this example, one contact is needed for switching with network zero, the other is needed for switching with a supercharger. The network phase is conducted through a toggle switch for connection to the second input of the compressor unit. The toggle switch will help to quickly disconnect the system from the power supply. All electrical contacts solder well. Then the compressor unit is painted and tested. During the test run, the operation of the relay and the tightness of the system are checked. A trial run will allow you to determine the value optimal pressure for painting in an even layer. To ensure high-quality and long-term operation of the compressor, maintenance is required. An important event in this case is an oil change.

If you still decide to buy a factory-made air compressor, study its parameters and capabilities. Give preference to well-known companies.

To make a compressor yourself, you will need a refrigerator, more precisely, just one part of it. Often such a device is used together with a spray gun or an airbrush.

It practically does not make noise during its work, has a small size, while creating quite a lot of pressure. Such a unit is also suitable for inflating automobile wheels.

What will we need?
1. The motor installed in the old refrigerator is the compressor. In general, all models are quite similar, if there is a difference between them, then it is not significant.

The black box attached to the side is the relay from which comes the power cable with plug.

2. The container into which the compressor will pump air is the receiver. For such purposes, any hermetically sealed iron or plastic 3-10-liter container is suitable. Alternatively, you can use a fire extinguisher, a tank from a truck, a small tank or a can of building fluids.

receiver

3. For the manufacture of the compressor, you will need three hoses: a pair of 10 cm and one 30-70 cm long (depending on the characteristics of the receiver). Automotive hoses are ideal, as they will be connected to their own, “native” filters.

4. Another hose or tube is required to connect the compressor to the air consumer. The material of the product, as well as its length, are determined by specific needs. If you plan to use the compressor with an airbrush, a thin polyvinyl hose will also work. The one that comes with the airbrush can also be used. If you plan to use the compressor on outdoors, it is better to find a thicker hose.

To make a compressor, you will also need:

Clamps (5 pcs. 16 or 20 mm each);
Copper or iron 6 mm tubes, one at a time (the diameter may be larger, the main thing is that hoses fit on them). The length of the first tube is 10 cm, the second is 20-50 cm;
One filter per car (diesel and fuel);
Epoxy resin, soldering iron, welding machine;
Pressure gauge (optional);
Base for the receiver and motor (a wooden board of the appropriate size will do);
Steel tape;
self-tapping screws;
The next set of tools: screwdriver, drill, pliers, knife, metal file.

Making a refrigerator compressor

There are three tubes at the compressor outlet: sealed (the one that is shorter) and the other two are open. You need to figure out which one is the input and which one is the output. To do this, slide your finger over the inlets of the tubes, after connecting the compressor to the network. The one that blows out the air is the exit, the one that draws it in is the entrance. Unplug the compressor and note the position of the inlet and outlet.

Saw off a couple of tubes with a metal file, leaving at least 10 cm for easy connection of hoses. Alternatively, you can try to bite off the necessary part of the tubes with pliers. Most importantly, make sure that sawdust does not get inside.

Now the compressor needs to be fixed on a wooden base by screwing its legs with self-tapping screws. For a more secure fixation, we recommend using bolts. You need to fix the compressor in exactly the same position as it was done in the refrigerator. The fact is that the relay functions under the influence of gravity. After fixing the compressor on a wooden base, you can go directly to the receiver.

If a plastic container is used as a receiver, drill two holes in its lid for installing tubes and insert them there. Secure the tubes using epoxy resin. Leave outside (on top of the lid) 2-4 cm of tubing. Use a 10 cm tube as the outlet tube.

The second should be much longer and practically reach the bottom of the receiver. It is necessary to keep the inlet and outlet as far apart as possible - this will ensure the best mixing of air in the receiver itself.
For a metal receiver, you need to do the same, with the only difference being that the tubes need to be soldered or welded. Nuts can also be welded, and then hose fittings must be screwed into them.

The pressure gauge is installed only in the iron receiver.

Just drill a hole in it and solder (weld on) the pressure gauge. However, it will be more convenient to weld a nut into the hole, and screw the pressure gauge into it. So, if it breaks, it can be easily replaced with a new one.

Now you need to fix the receiver on a wooden base. Attach with steel tape, positioning directly next to the motor. Use self-tapping screws for this.

We go further - we put on a 10-centimeter hose on the gasoline filter. With the appropriate hoses (for a gasoline filter), there will be no difficulties, but polyvinyl pipes may have to be heated in order for them to fit on the filter. This can be done with a lit match or by holding them a little in boiling water. The other end of the hose must be put on the compressor inlet tube. An inlet filter is required to filter dust. In this case, it is not necessary to use clamps on the connections: there is completely no pressure here.

Another piece of hose is needed to connect the "inlet" of the compressor to the "outlet" of the receiver. On their connections you need to put clamps.

We put one end of a 10-centimeter piece of hose on the outlet pipe of the receiver, the other on the diesel filter. Each of the filters has an arrow indicating the direction in which the air moves through them, so there will be no difficulty in connecting them correctly. The diesel filter, which is installed at the outlet, is necessary to filter water from the air.

The working hose connected to the airbrush must be put on the outlet fitting of the diesel filter.

From below, rubber feet must be screwed onto a wooden base. Alternatively, felt linings can also be glued on. Otherwise, the vibrating compressor will scratch the floor during operation. The degree of vibration, as well as the noise emitted by the device, depends on the chosen model: those installed in imported refrigerators are practically silent, domestic ones are also relatively quiet, however, there are exceptions among them.

The pressure that will create finished device also depends on its model. The older the motor, the higher its power. So, the good old Soviet compressors give out up to 2-2.5 bar, and some up to 3.5 bar.

Maintenance

The filters installed in the compressor need to be replaced frequently. Oil accumulating in the receiver must also be drained. Keep in mind that a key factor that affects the life of a homemade compressor is the regularity of oil changes. It is better to make the first replacement before assembling the device.

There is also a third tube on the motor, it is sealed. It is necessary to cut off its soldered end, turn the motor over and pour out the oil (a glass will be typed somewhere). Using a syringe, pour fresh engine oil into the tube, it should be a little more than what you just drained.

In order not to solder the tube through which you drained (filled) the oil again, simply screw a bolt into it, which can be easily unscrewed at the next oil change.

To buy or not to buy? That is the question. But for those who have an old faulty refrigerator with a working compressor, this question disappears - of course, make a compressor for painting using the available materials yourself!

Self-assembly of the compressor is not as complicated as it seems at first glance, especially if you know the principle of its operation. To assemble the compressor, you will need an engine driving air into a container where the same air will be under pressure. The mechanism is designed in such a way that excess air, due to which the pressure in the tank may exceed the necessary one, exits through a special bleed valve. This is necessary so that during the process of painting the car (or whatever else is needed), the paint lays evenly on the entire surface, and this effect can be achieved only when there is constant pressure in the sprayer.

The compressor can be used in a wide variety of areas - for tire inflation, airbrushing, painting spare parts and so on. With the necessary tools and certain knowledge, it is quite possible to independently manufacture this unit based on a conventional refrigerator. A homemade compressor gives about 7 atmospheres, which is enough for an ordinary garage workshop. The refrigerator compressor will turn out to be quite quiet and, most importantly, cheap at cost.

Which is better - homemade or purchased?

In total, there are several main differences between them:

The design of the factory compressor contains Electrical engine, transmitting torque to the working chamber through a belt drive. As for the homemade compressor, it consists of a housing and the engine itself, without belts.
In the factory version, automatic pressure relief systems, inlet and outlet filters, pressure gauges, etc. are already installed. In the compressor from the refrigerator, you will have to install the adjusting equipment yourself, taking into account all the features.
Although most factory compressors are equipped automatic systems, in some budget models this feature is not implemented. In other words, these units will have to be turned off on their own, marking the time by the clock. Homemade compressors are mainly equipped with a protective relay that turns off the engine when there is a risk of overheating.
In some factory models, any lubrication may be completely absent. Of course they are small, but there are no various exhausts. This circumstance is very important, especially if the spray gun behaves rather capriciously, not tolerating various impurities. As for homemade compressors, there is plenty of oil.
The main feature of a homemade compressor is that it works very quietly, especially if you put all the tubes on it correctly, observing tightness. As for factory compressors, they behave more noisily, so its use is only possible outside the home.
The cost of manufacturing a homemade compressor is very low, because the main components are taken from old technology, and control equipment will cost a maximum of 1000 rubles.
It is not possible to make any technical changes to the factory compressor. In other words, if the unit is not powerful enough, then it can only be used as a tire inflation pump, no more. Homemade options are good because you can add some details to them, for example, a large receiver, so you can significantly increase the power of the device.

As practice shows, a home-made compressor for painting a car breaks down much less frequently than its foreign and domestic factory counterparts. On the Internet you can find many instructions for building compressors with your own hands. So let's discuss a few options that can help in this matter.

Schemes for the manufacture of a homemade compressor

Here are several options for device assembly schemes - choose which one is best suited for your purposes:

Compressor Assembly Parts

pressure switch;
manometer;
gearbox with oil separator;
oil separator filter;
adapters;
cross;
fitting and nut;
clutch;
nipple;
a tube;
car clamps;
receiver;
nuts, studs, washers;
furniture wheels;
motor oil;
toggle switch;
plug and cord;
fuel filter;
plywood panels (chipboard);
refrigerator compressor;
oil and petrol resistant hose, screws, Epoxylin, sealant, paint, fum tape, rust remover and other small things.

In my options, I checked several different control valves. After several attempts, I ordered a RUCK14IAMSV check valve, it does not buzz and can be perfect for building a compressor from refrigeration units. Also need to buy safety valve(MINI SVM14-12). Take a tank from a powder fire extinguisher 16 kg. The pressure in the tank is 9.5 bar and the shelf life is 2 months.

Important: pay attention to which oil to fill in - synthetics are very poorly combined with regular ones, so you do not need to pour everything that is horrible.

An oil separator must be installed between the compressor and the tank.
Oil should be added through the third brazed tube.
It is best to solder the connector and screw it in with a screw or a metal plug.
Install a dehydrator, it also captures oil.

Due to the sudden failure of the refrigerator, he became the owner of an efficient 110 watt unit. Of course it can be converted into a compressor. There is an automotive airbrush, which was previously used with a 12-watt compressor, as well as a high-power compressor. These devices are noisy and short-lived. So I had to make my own.

Compressor assembly instructions

It is important to properly dismantle the compressor in order not to damage it. First, use the wire cutters to cut through the tubes coming out of the engine leading to the grille. Next, the wires from the relay are cut off, but their length should remain approximately 20 cm. Before unscrewing the compressor, it is necessary to make a mark on the relay cover.

After the compressor blower circuit from the refrigerator is broken, the spindle will be exposed to the atmosphere, which will lead to the loss of its properties. If the factory oil is not replaced in the supercharger, its pistons will quickly wear out, as a result of which the engine will fail. Therefore, it is recommended to first replace it with a motor semi-synthetic one. like from a car.

In addition to the outlet and inlet tubes, the compressor from a conventional refrigerator is equipped with a third tube with a sealed end. In order to use it for painting cars in the future, it is necessary to remove the clogged part. To do this, using a hacksaw for metal, you should make a neat incision around the tube, but without sawing it to the end, and then break off the filed piece. It is important that metal chips do not get inside.

The remaining pipe must be flared and drained of the old oil, then pour semi-synthetics into it in the same amount. After that, the pipe is clogged with a screw wrapped in fum tape.

The fire extinguisher body will go great for the receiver. It is important that it be cast, seamless and have a volume of 10 liters or more. Before using it, you need to inspect the inside of the fire extinguisher for corrosion. A flashlight is used for inspection. If corrosion is still present, it must be removed with a special liquid.

Stages of assembly work

To make a compressor from the refrigerator means to follow a simple sequence of steps:

Take pliers, a spanner wrench for 12, 2 screwdrivers - for plus and minus. At the bottom of the back panel, bite with pliers the tubes connecting the compressor to the cooling system. Unscrew the start relay, after marking the upper and lower sides on it. Disconnect the relay from the plug. We take all the fasteners with us.
Function test: connect the relay back, provide air access to the compressor through the pipes, connect to the network. If everything is done correctly, then the device works. Air will enter one tube and exit the other. Label these tubes.
Attach the compressor with self-tapping screws to a wooden board.
We take an old fire extinguisher, 1 hose 600 mm long, 2 others - 100 mm, fuel filter, clamps, pressure gauge, sealant. We already have a drill, screwdriver, pliers.
If there is no fire extinguisher, then we will make a plastic container. To do this, you need to take a container with a volume of more than 3 liters. Make 2 holes. Insert the inlet tube into 1 hole at a distance of 2 cm from the bottom of the container. We lower the outlet pipeline 10 cm deep. It is impossible to install a pressure gauge on a plastic tank.
If there is an iron tank, then the tubes can be fixed by welding. We install a pressure gauge on the iron receiver.
We fasten the receiver and compressor together.
Put a filter on a hose 10 cm long, attach the free end of the tube to the inlet of the designed apparatus. Connect the receiver inlet to the compressor outlet with another hose. We fix the docking points with clamps. A diesel filter is attached to the last hose, and its free end is inserted into the outlet of the receiver. Equipment can be put on the remaining end of the tube, if necessary, so that airbrushing and painting become available.

The second version of the step-by-step instructions:

We drill a special hole for the adapter to be fixed. You can choose different ways, for example, the most affordable is cold welding (using Epoxylin).
We carefully clean the bottom of the receiver from dirt - plaque and rust. This is necessary in order for Epoxylin to adhere well to the surface for strong bonding. And, of course, so that the paint does not get dirty and does not stray into lumps with debris. This can be achieved by cleaning the bottom of the fire extinguisher to a metallic sheen with a rotary-circular motion with sandpaper.
We fix the adapter by clamping it with front side nut, and give time to harden "Epoksilina" according to the instructions.
We turn to the base for the compressor, for which you need to get three wooden boards or a piece of plywood measuring 30 by 30 cm. For the convenience of further moving our device, you can screw mobile wheels for furniture to the base. We do not specifically describe the dimensions of the holes and other trifles, since this will all be purely individual, as it depends on the material chosen, the type of compressor, and so on.
We drill holes for the compressor and studs and mount them. The studs are secured with nuts and washers.
We put on the breath of the compressor an automobile filter with a special paper core. This will help prevent dust and other small contaminants from getting inside the compressor.
Next, let's take a look at the electrical. To make our home-made compressor for painting a car convenient to use, we equip it with a pressure switch (for example, PM5 or RDM5), as well as a shutdown toggle switch. The first device, a pressure switch, is necessary for us in order to turn off the compressor in the process of pumping air into the receiver, when the pressure reaches the allowable maximum, and vice versa, turn it on when the pressure drops below the allowable minimum. You can set the value of the maximum and minimum pressures directly on the relay using springs, with the large spring responsible for the minimum pressure (and the corresponding activation of the compressor), and the small one for the difference between the maximum and minimum pressure values.
Take a closer look and you will see 2 contacts on the relay, designed specifically for connecting it to the network. Since such relays were originally used in the water supply system, we will slightly change its purpose and connection features. Our task is to connect the first contact to the network, and the second to the compressor.
We put the general shutdown toggle switch on the gap between the pressure switch and the 220V network. This will help to de-energize the entire installation, so as not to constantly run to turn it on and off.
We paint the receiver and proceed to the final assembly.
We screw the nut with the fitting onto the filter-oil-moisture separator.
We take the hose and put it on the fitting with one end, and pull it on the compressor tube with the other and clamp it all with clamps. To do this, we take a reinforced, oil-resistant hose. Each threaded connection should be sealed with fum-tape.
We fasten the filter to the bottom of the receiver and treat the silicone joint with sealant.
We fasten the cast-iron cover, but pre-treat its threaded connection with the same sealant. To improve the seal, you can put a rubber gasket under the cover.
A tube must be screwed onto the lid, the thread of which should be a quarter inch, and a crosspiece must be screwed onto it.

Installation of device parts

For ease of storage and movement, it is best to arrange all compressor parts compactly on one base. We will use as a basis wooden board, on it we securely fix the engine - supercharger and fire extinguisher housing.

We fix the compressor engine with threaded studs threaded into pre-drilled holes and nuts with washers. We place the receiver vertically, using three sheets of plywood for fixing, in one of which we cut a hole for the cylinder.

The other two, with the help of self-tapping screws, are attached to the carrier board and glued to the sheet holding the receiver. Under the bottom of the receiver, at the base, we hollow out a recess corresponding in size. For maneuverability, we fasten wheels from furniture fittings. Next, we perform the following operations:

We provide protection for our system from dust and coarse particles, for which, as an air intake, we use a coarse fuel filter gasoline engines. For this purpose, we use a rubber hose that tightly compresses the filter fitting and the inlet tube of the supercharger. At the compressor inlet, low pressure and strengthening of contact with automotive clamps is not required. Thus, we made an inlet filter for the compressor with our own hands.

An oil separator should be installed at the compressor outlet to prevent liquid particles from passing through. As this protection element, we use a filter in the diesel engine power system. We connect it to the supercharger using an oil-resistant hose. Since the pressure at the compressor outlet is increased, here and everywhere below, to strengthen the contact, we use automobile clamps with fasteners tightened with a screw.

The oil and moisture separator is connected to the input of the gearbox. We need a reducer to untie the pressure receiver and the outlet of the supercharger. We screw its high-pressure outlet into the water crosspiece on the left or right.

We fasten a pressure gauge from the opposite entrance of the quadruple, using it we will control the pressure of compressed air in the cylinder. We screw the adjusting relay on top of the cross. We seal all connections with fum tape and sealant.

The relay will allow you to set a wide range of pressure levels in the receiver, timely interrupting the power supply circuit of the supercharger. As an actuator, you can choose PM5 or RDM5. These devices will turn on the compressor if the pressure of compressed air in the receiver drops below the set mark, and turn it off when the specified range is exceeded. The required pressure is set on the relay using two springs. A large spring sets the minimum pressure level, and a small one regulates the upper limit, setting the compressor shutdown limit. RDM5 and RM5 were originally produced for use in the water supply network and are electrically passive, that is, they are ordinary switches with two contacts. We connect one contact to the zero of the 220 V network, and the second to the supercharger.

We connect the phase wire of the network through the toggle switch to the second network input of the compressor. The introduction of a toggle switch into the electrical circuit allows you to quickly turn off the system from power without running to the outlet every time. All electrical connections are soldered and carefully insulated.

Compressor testing and tuning

Now it remains only to paint the entire compressor and proceed to field tests.

Having assembled the structure, you should check its performance. We connect an airbrush or a tire inflation gun to the compressor outlet. After that, with the toggle switch off, turn on the plug in the network. We set the control switch to the minimum pressure and then apply power to the supercharger. The pressure created in the receiver is controlled by a pressure gauge. After making sure that when a certain level is reached, the relay turns off the engine, we check the tightness of the air ducts and connections. This is easy to do with soapy water.

After making sure that the compressed air does not leave the system, we bleed it from the receiver chamber. As soon as the pressure in the cylinder drops below the set mark, the relay should work and start the compressor. If everything is functioning properly, you can try to paint some unnecessary part. Preliminary work on preparing the surface for applying enamel is not required here - it is important for us to develop skills and determine how much pressure is required to paint the product. Experimentally, we determine the value in atmospheres at which overpressure enough to paint the entire part in a uniform layer with minimum quantity blower operation.

Adjustment and testing

The main test of a homemade compressor is to determine the possibility of effectively regulating the pressure that is created in the assembled system. The easiest way to do this is to test paint any surface. In this case, the following is sequentially performed:

Set the relay to 4 ... 5 atmospheres.
Connect the compressor to the network.
The pressure gauge monitors the stability of the parameter. If the relay is operable, then when the pressure is exceeded, it will turn off the compressor, otherwise open the relief valve and immediately turn off the unit.
Check the system for the absence of spontaneous bleeding of the energy carrier, for which you can use a regular soap solution.
When the pressure drops to a level below the minimum allowable, the relay should automatically turn on the compressor.
After painting a surface, it is necessary to check the quality of the paint applied to it - during an external examination, traces of moisture, foreign particles and dirt should not be detected. If such defects still occur, you should additionally check the operation of the output filter - oil and moisture separator.

Video instruction for the compressor

The operation of the assembled unit will be long and reliable if it is periodically carried out routine maintenance. It comes down to replacing the inlet filters, periodically blowing out all air lines, and also changing the oil in the compressor.

It is undesirable to load the compressor by more than 75% of its capacity. But it is quite difficult to understand where the line is, which cannot be crossed, to predict what pressure the compressor will show. It depends on when the refrigerator was released, what brand it is. On older models, this figure will be better. Then, for comfortable high-quality work, you only need to replace the consumable filters.

Today, many different types of compressors are used in everyday life, for the operation of which a variety of gases are used. It has the greatest popularity, which is also actively used by car owners for painting a car or pumping car wheels, since it is less convenient to use a manual pump for the same purposes. Next, we will consider how to make a compressor for painting a car yourself and what the procedure for its manufacture is.

DIY homemade compressor

Compressor motor and electronics. Click on photo to enlarge

A small hole is cut in the chamber itself, later a nipple will be located in it for electric or hand pump, which will be used to paint the car. At the entrance, it should be done with a nipple, while the second one is glued without a nipple, a sprayer will be connected to it. The degree of air compression is subject to fine adjustment empirically. To do this, an experimental batch of paint is sprayed onto the surface of the wall or any other. After a suitable pressure level is found, the pump is disconnected, and it is important to make sure that the pressure has not changed.

It is also important to consider that the camera needs to be firmly fixed, since it will not be in a stable position on the floor. This option will allow you to create a simple tool with which you can easily fix minor flaws in the paintwork on a car.

Homemade compressor with your own hands. Option 2

This case involves using a tube car tire (or tube itself) as well as a pump.

Homemade compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

In this case, using a chamber with or without a tire depends on how much pressure you need to get from a homemade car. A small hole is cut in the chamber, into which another nipple is glued (raw rubber is quite suitable for this). One nipple must be equipped with a nipple for air injection, and a hose from the sprayer is attached to the second (outlet).

The pressure is regulated by a barometer built into the pump. Next, you need to spray paint on the wall to determine the required pressure. After that, slightly unscrew the hose from the pump so that during pressing the pressure of the sprayer does not noticeably change. The exception is autopumps with a built-in bleeder, in which case the pressure will be constant.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 1

For the manufacture of a complex compressor, you can use any electric motor from refrigeration device(if it is burned out, then only the piston mechanism must be used).

Example small compressor. Click on photo to enlarge

To extract it, the body is cut in two places with a hacksaw, and then the fixing bolts are unscrewed and the stator and pump with the rotor are removed.

Due to the fact that there is no need for a rotor, it can be knocked off the crankshaft, but if the design is equipped with a belt drive to the pump, then pulleys with prismatic keys, fixed with M6 bolts, are put on the pump crankshaft and motor shaft tails.

Keyways need to be milled on all shafts and can also be drilled using an optional 14mm bore bushing. It is put on over the shank, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 mm is drilled exactly along the joint, then the sleeve is removed. In cross section, the keyways have a semicircular shape, so the keys should be given the same shape.

How to make a frame for a structure?

The compressor frame can be made using two channels tied with crossbars from steel plates on screws. The pump is fixed to the frame with four bolts with bushings (their height can be adjusted directly on site), after which the motor is mounted on the base plate.

The frame allows the V-belt to be tensioned by moving it along the adjustment holes. If the air tube is long enough, then there is no need to use a receiver - it can be used as an oil sump.

Manufacture of complex compressors. Method 2

Compressor device. Click on photo to enlarge

For this method of making a homemade compressor for painting, an empty five-liter gas stove bottle is useful. Take the receiver, compressor and wheels, they must be fixed on the base. The frame can be welded using rectangular tubes with a cross section of 40x25 mm, and in the absence of a pipe, steel corners can be used. We attach wheels to the base for ease of movement of the structure. To adjust the pressure in a working compressor from a refrigeration device, visual control is required using a pressure gauge.

It is also important to set the limiter at a suitable level. A nipple, a pressure gauge and two fittings (one for the inlet, the other for the outlet) are combined by a base on a solid metal bar with four drilled holes, which are connected in one channel. The holes should be threaded for each element. The block itself is fixed with two screws on the surface of the frame. Thus, compressed air is sent to the receiver through the hose.

A slightly shortened valve can be left in the used gas cylinder. The valve should be removed from it, replacing it with a copper tube. From the inside, a PVC pipe leading to the bottom of the receiver should be put on it. With its help, moisture and oil vapors are separated.

In order for the condensate to drain from the receiver, a plugged hole must be made in the bottom, for this an M8 nut is welded and a bolt is tightened. Welding can only be started after all residual explosive gas has been expelled from it. To do this, it must be filled with water. Second copper tube, located in the M6 threaded hole in the valve, transfers air to the splitter, which transfers it directly to the consumer (to the spray gun, to the chamber, to the ball, etc.) To start the engine, you can use a standard start relay, pre-attached to the frame. When painting with a gun, you can direct moisture vapor into the hose using a fine fuel filter for a car, it has the ability to retain moisture. Also, before starting work, it is important to check if there is any condensate in the receiver. Ready-made compressor for painting cars is almost silent and very compact.

Making complex compressors with your own hands. Method 3

Scheme of the compressor unit. Click on photo to enlarge

The role of the main mechanism in this version is played by a two-cylinder compressor from ZIL-130. The muffler from the KrAZ car will serve as the bearing and forming part. In design, it is a receiver. A simple frame made of a 35x35 mm corner is attached to it, on which corners and mechanisms are located.

Under the receiver there are several crossbars and the aforementioned corners, they are connected to the frame with studs, self-orienting wheels are attached to the ends.

Stage I

To convert the muffler from KrAZ into a receiver on the compressor unit, it is necessary to weld the inlet and outlet holes with plugs, then drill several holes for the M14x1 mm thread on the outlet, and screw two fittings on the sealant into them. Initially, an intermediate receiver based on an oxygen cylinder is mounted.

Its task is to absorb moisture and oils contained in compressed air. In order for it to work more efficiently, it is necessary to equip a threaded drain hole at the bottom of the device, and then block it with a sealed plug. In this case, the balloon can be removed.

Stage II

The compressor drive uses a three-phase electric motor alternating current. Suitable power is 1kW with 1380 rpm. with the windings attached to it in the form of a triangle. It should be converted to work with household power supply (voltage 220 V), but ideally the motor should be single-phase. In order for it to easily start and not overheat, it must be equipped with a starting and working capacitor bank, and then connected according to the indicated scheme.

The launch box can be used from washing machine. The engine should be started as follows: we press the button for connecting the starting battery of capacitors, and then the main starting one on the switch. After the engine reaches nominal speed, you can release the starter battery button. You can stop the engine with the stop button.

Stage III

The capacity of the working capacitor bank should be selected so that the engine does not overheat even during prolonged use. For one kilowatt engines fit capacitance of 25 microfarads. The capacity of the starting batteries in this case should be in the range from 70 to 100 microfarads. The basic criterion is speed dial engine speed. The breakdown voltage of all capacitors must be at least 300V. For better cooling, an impeller of six blades is installed on the motor shaft own production. With the help of a V-belt transmission with a threefold reduced speed, rotation is transmitted to the compressor eccentric from the electric motor.

Reducing the power consumption of the drive, and thereby facilitating its operation, can be achieved by redesigning the compressor. To do this, instead of a regular head, equipped with only two exhaust valves, it is necessary to install a duralumin plate on four valves (two intake and two exhaust). The compressor is connected to the transfer case and the receiver using pipelines. They are made of aluminum with a bore diameter of 6 mm. It is fixed with standard aviation fittings, tees, elbows and union nuts with bushings. The transfer box can also be made independently.

To do this, take an aluminum bar with a one-sided deaf longitudinal hole 10 mm in diameter. A receiver tube will be connected to it through a fitting. It is also necessary to make three more holes: one on the side and two on top. A pressure gauge is installed in one upper hole, and a safety valve is installed in the other. It should be adjusted to a pressure limit of 4 kg/cm2 (4 atm). A branch pipe for the outlet of compressed air is mounted in the side hole.

Classic layout of components and parts

This arrangement is used in all domestic household appliances. A large and voluminous receiver is used as a base for assemblies and parts. It is also used to pair motor-compressors. Under it adapts an empty cylinder of liquefied gas for 50 liters. Such a cylinder is designed for 16 atm.

Stage I

The remaining propane is removed from the cylinder, for this the valve is unscrewed, the cylinder is placed “on the priest”, and above it is a water tank. Using a thin rubber hose with a metal tube at the tip, the balloon is filled with water. It displaces gas and all kinds of liquids contained in propane from it in order to be able to detect gas leaks. Removed from the balloon support ring. First, it can be sawn crosswise, and then bend the edges until they break off along the weld. This procedure will make the product look more aesthetic.

Stage II

Before you start welding work, the cylinder must again be put “on the priest” and filled with water to the top. The vapors that are generated during welding will be cooled as they rise through the water. A supercharger should be placed on top of a cylindrical, horizontally located receiver. It consists of twin motor-compressors on a sub-frame made of a 30x30 mm corner, a relay, a starter and a terminal block are also placed there. A handle is welded on one of the edges, it can be bent out of water pipe with a diameter of 20 mm, this will help in moving the unit.

To do this, you can also bring the chassis, under the handle of one edge, install a drain in the form of an inverted letter "P", on the other edge - similar, but with a chassis. The first is made using a steel corner 30x30 mm, the second (additional) - from a corner with dimensions 40x40 mm. Crossbars, corner brackets designed for holes for wheel axles should be welded to it along the edges. On the inside of the brackets, it is necessary to weld M8 nuts; with their help, axles from identical M8 bolts are attached.

Stage III

A hole with a diameter of 6 mm is drilled on the side of the cylinder. An inlet fitting is welded to it in the form of a small piece of pipe with a diameter of 10 mm. One of the outlets of the tee is attached to it with a hose, the other two outlets are connected by similar high-pressure oxygen hoses to the outlet pipes of all motor-compressors. On connections, tees, hoses and fittings are tightened with clamps.

To remove water and oil from the cylinder during use, it is necessary to weld a short threaded fitting on the tip at the bottom of the cylinder. A hole is drilled in the wall along the inner diameter of the pipe, and the fitting itself is “silenced” using a screw-on plug. The brass valve on the cylinder needs to be improved, so a hole must be drilled at the base of the part and an M14 thread cut into it. A pipe should be screwed in there, and a pressure gauge should be attached to it with a special nut. The second branch pipe must be screwed into the outlet of the valve, after which the consumer hose must be connected to it.

A self-made compressor, in particular, its electrical part, in this case consists of a starter and starting windings taken from a washing machine, a shutdown relay and a wire connection terminal block. The latter can be taken from fluorescent lamp daylight. All of the above is mounted on a board of five-millimeter textolite and mounted on the top of the cylinder. One end of the board must be leaned on the stick of the frame of motor-compressors, the second - on another support post welded to the surface of the cylinder.

Power is supplied from a household alternating current network (voltage 220V). Wiring diagram and separate starters, depending on the amount of compressed air consumed, allow you to turn on both motor-compressors at the same time or one of the two. It will allow you to create a high-quality and durable unit with your own hands. Below, in the diagram, a compressor is shown with a valve from the design of the liquid cooling of the Moskvich car instead of a valve.