The Russian stove has a long history, and at the same time it has not lost its relevance to this day. characterizes stove heating simplicity and reliability of design, as well as versatility. The Russian stove fits well into the interior, it does not need to be heated a large number firewood, and its proper use makes it possible long service life without repair. The task concerning the laying of the Russian stove is not simple, but with the desire and knowledge of the basic principles of this process, it is quite solvable.
From the history of the Russian stove
The Russian stove was preceded in the 15th century by devices that did not have a chimney, so their heating took place “in a black way”. Somewhat later, they began to remove the resulting smoke through the attic. And after some time, the clay was replaced by bricks, which were previously fired. With the onset of the 17th century, the chimney oven was invented. However, chimneys were built of wood, which quite often led to fires. Significant for the Russian stove is 1718, when such designs were banned by Peter the Great.
Russian stove
Dangerous hearths were gradually replaced by stoves equipped with pipes made of stone and having a bench, which is a place to sleep. The Russian stove was the center of peasant life. In addition to cooking and drying the gifts of the forest, pottery was fired in it, and a vine was prepared for weaving bast shoes. The presence in it of a large number of niches and various compartments made it possible to store household utensils. In addition to all this, the stove was used as a bath in miniature.
Russian stove How is a traditional Russian stove arranged?
The dimensions of the Russian stove and, accordingly, its mass are significant, so it requires the construction of a sufficiently strong foundation. In the past, wood and stone were used for its construction, at the moment it is concrete and brick.
The lowest part of the oven is called the base. It contains a stove, which is a chamber designed to accommodate various utensils and firewood in it. The presence of such a foundation creates more comfortable conditions for the operation of the furnace due to the fact that the entire structure rises somewhat above the floor level. The vault, which has a semicircular shape, closes the sub-heaters. Sand or clay is poured on it, after which a bottom, called a hearth, is installed. For uniform combustion of fuel, the pod is arranged in such a way that it is at some slight angle to the rear wall.
The structure of the Russian stove The main elements of the firebox are the cooking chamber and the crucible. The front part of the firebox has a mouth, which is an opening equipped with a metal damper. A dome or sloping vault is the upper ceiling of the cooking chamber. The first of them reduces the load on the walls, and the other contributes to a more uniform process of heat reflection. The formwork, made of boards or metal, serves as the basis for mounting the vault. The design of the chimney does not provide for any turns or the presence of horizontal sections. She has vertical arrangement and placed directly above the oven.
The operation of the Russian furnace occurs according to the following principle: fuel is burned in the chamber due to the supply of oxygen from the lower part of the mouth; combustion products move to the roof and then move along the chimney. The rate of combustion of fuel depends on its moisture content. Dry wood burns faster, thereby increasing the heating rate of the stove.
Cooking is done at the end of the process of burning logs and heating the interior of the oven. During the combustion of fuel, the temperature in the furnace reaches 600 degrees Celsius. As the firewood burns out, it drops to the optimum for cooking. various dishes temperatures at 220-250 degrees Celsius.
Choosing a place for the stove
When designing this device, the following rules should be followed:
- it is necessary that the wooden structures and the smoke channel are at least 37 mm apart;
- the required thrust is achieved when the pipe is at least one and a half meters from the ridge and at least half a meter from it;
- the location of the chimney at the level of the ridge is allowed if the distance from it is between 1.5 and 3 meters;
- in the case when the distance indicated above is more than three meters, then a lower location of the pipe is possible with a slope of more than 10 degrees.
Russian stove in the interior Combining the foundations of the furnace and the building is not allowed. This is due to the fact that each structure has its own natural draft.
The design of the house should include the installation of a stove. The optimal place for it is the central part of the house, which will make it possible to heat the maximum area.
Choosing materials and tools
materials
For laying a Russian stove with your own hands, a red solid brick is best suited. The quality of firing is important. Before starting work, a smooth brick is selected and soaked in water. This is necessary to remove air from its pores and moisturize. With a sufficient degree of moisture, the brick will not take moisture from the solution, which contributes to their high-quality connection with each other.
You need to choose a quality brick The component necessary for bonding the masonry is clay, extracted from deep soil horizons. An important characteristic of clay is its fat content. At a normal level of this indicator, it is possible to avoid cracking during the drying of the solution. In order for the thickness of the seam to be minimal, fine sand fractions obtained by sieving are used in the solution.
In order to obtain the required properties of clay, it must weather and freeze in the cold for several winters. In this case, it is recommended to use atmospheric water (snow, rain), which has the required softness. In addition, a couple of handfuls of bronze or copper small chips are added to the composition of the solution.
Tool
- cutting and hewing of bricks is carried out with a pickaxe;
- the application of the solution and its leveling is carried out with a trowel;
- control the horizontal laying level;
- verticality is checked with a plumb line or cord with a suspended load;
- the horizontal position and straightness of the masonry is controlled by the rule;
- measurements are carried out with a tape measure or a steel meter.
Tools for the job Mortar types
Laying a Russian stove with your own hands requires the preparation of a specific solution. The mixture for this can be purchased at ready-made, you can also cook it yourself according to a unique recipe.
clay mortar
This type of solution implies an individual compilation of it for various kinds bricks.
Pipe laying in the attic For laying solid bricks, a sand-clay mortar is used. The same solution is necessary for lining the furnace with ceramic tiles.
For laying refractory bricks, you will need a mortar prepared from a mixture of refractory clay and sand.
Fireclay bricks are laid on a mortar consisting of fireclay powder and refractory clay.
masonry chimney in the attic is made using a mortar based on cement and sand.
masonry mortar
The main problem in the preparation of mortar for masonry is the compilation of the optimal proportion of its components and the choice of clay of the required quality. All types of clays have certain qualities, which are different depending on its grade. Distinguish between lean and oily clay. To determine this parameter, you need to get a small ball out of it and try to crush it between the planks. If cracks begin to appear before the material is crushed to a third of the diameter, the solution is considered lean and requires an additional amount of clay. If cracking starts later, then the solution is greasy and sand should be added to it. A more greasy solution is preferable than one that is too dry.
Solution To prepare the solution, you need a container made of metal. In this container, the clay is soaked for two days. After that, sand is added, and the solution is mixed with the help of feet, previously shod in high rubber boots. To obtain a homogeneous solution, it is necessary that there are no lumps and stones in it.
Building a foundation
Foundation The design of the Russian stove requires that a separate foundation be built for it. For this, it is recommended to lay the foundation of a reinforced concrete monolith. Necessary requirement is the presence of a foundation protrusion of at least 500 mm beyond the outer dimension of the furnace.
If the furnace is installed next to the inner wall, then a sand layer is arranged between the foundations to separate the foundations of the two structures. This is due to a slight deepening of the foundation of the building.
If the oven is located outer wall, where the foundation has a considerable depth, then the width of the pit is increased, followed by filling and compacting sand and gravel. Upon completion of these works, a furnace foundation is created, the sole of which must have a depth of at least 500 mm with a distance of 50 mm from the base of the house.
Oven masonry: step by step instructions
Site preparation
At this stage, the leveling and marking of the construction site is carried out. The progress of laying the furnace will depend on the thoroughness of these works.
Foundation pouring
The depth of the pit depends on the dimensions of the structure and is in the range of 500-1200 mm. The foundation material is concrete, which, after pouring, takes about a week to harden.
Masonry orders
Do-it-yourself Russian oven is carried out in strict accordance with the scheme, called ordering.
The first row is laid out on the foundation, consisting of two or three rows of bricks, to achieve greater structural stability. The quality of the brick for this row is not of fundamental importance.
The main thing is the quality of firing.
After that, the masonry scheme must fully comply with the order. The rows can be solid or provide for the presence of cavities and niches.
In order to maintain the vault, if the furnace is of considerable size, columns are installed. Fireclay bricks are used for them.
The following rows are stacked similarly to the first ones, taking into account the drawing.
Russian stove masonry Preparing the oven for operation
Having completed the construction of the Russian stove, the solution should be allowed to dry. Heating and hardening brickwork made in 5-6 days. This time is enough to seize even the fireclay mixture in the crucible.
Finishing
In this case, finishing is necessary not only to give the structure an aesthetic appearance, but also to control the condition of the furnace masonry. Traditional finishing involves the use of clay, slaked lime and chalk.
Such a mixture successfully works in conditions of temperature fluctuations.
Photo of Russian stoves
The Russian oven (wind oven) is a unique structure of our ancestors, which not only heats, but also feeds, heals, and also ventilates the room. With multivariance in the details of the form, its main components remain unchanged. In the article we will consider the design of the Russian stove and its ordinary masonry.
Even before the introduction modern system measurements The traditional dimensions of the Russian stove were calculated in arshins. 1 arshin is approximately equal to 71 cm. The furnace was 2 arshins wide, 3 arshins long, and the height of the main body of the furnace from the base of the furnace to the bench was 2.5 arshins.
The design of the Russian (wind) oven
There are three main components in the oven:
- Foundation.
- Frame.
- Chimney.
Foundation
Our ancestors used rubble stone or overheated brick for foundation. Without departing far from the traditions of the past, consider the option of a concrete foundation for the furnace body.
The depth of the foundation for the furnace depends on the properties of the soil, whether the building is heated during the cold period of time, what is the level ground water. In case of intermittent heating of the building, the depth of the base of the foundation is provided below the depth of soil freezing in the coldest time.
1 - base of the foundation; 2 - rubble masonry; 3 - bookmark depth; 4 - waterproofing; 5 - floor level; 6 - furnace array
Rubble concrete consists of a concrete mixture and rubble stone. For the foundation, it is enough to use concrete mix M200. Concrete mix M200 is obtained with the following composition:
- cement M400 - 1 part;
- sand - 2 parts;
- gravel or crushed stone fraction less than 3 cm - 4 parts.
For the manufacture of concrete, sand is taken from the minimum amount organic, clay, dusty, mica impurities, which significantly reduce the strength and frost-resistant properties of concrete.
Water is poured into a dry mixture of cement, sand and gravel gradually, with constant mixing of the ingredients until the required mobility of the mixture is achieved. In this case, the volume of water is approximately equal to the volume of cement taken.
The foundation for the furnace can be built both with the help of formwork and in a formless way with dense, non-crumbling soils and a depth of the base of the foundation less than 1.25 m. In the case of a formless device, the size of the pit must correspond to the size of the foundation. Under the sole of the foundation, it is necessary to lay a layer of compacted rubble with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
Rubble concrete masonry is the process of embedding rubble stone into a layer of laid concrete layer 20 cm high. Rubble stone must be less than 30 cm, it is immersed in a concrete layer to a depth of more than 1/2 of its height. The gap between the laid stones, as well as between the stone and the formwork, is 4-6 cm. When the rubble layer is completely laid, the next layer of concrete is laid and the process of stone embedding is repeated.
To achieve the full quality of concrete work, breaks in the foundation process are allowed only when the gaps between the stones are filled with concrete of the last layer. In dry, windy or hot weather, during breaks in work for more than a day, to prevent rapid drying, the surface of the concrete is covered with some material (it can be roofing paper) and moistened with water 3-4 times a day. Before resuming work, the surface of the last layer is cleaned of contamination and wetted with water.
Rubble stone can be replaced with fragments of red brick or pieces of concrete, while brick crushed stone can be used as a concrete mix aggregate. Stones, fragments of brick before immersing them in the concrete mixture must be thoroughly cleaned from contamination. In dry and hot weather, in the case of using broken bricks, the fragments are soaked in water before laying.
The time it takes concrete to gain strength depends on its temperature. At a temperature of 10 ° C, in the first day it will gain approximately 10% of its full strength, in 7 days approximately 60%, and in 28 days - 85%. With an increase in the temperature of concrete, the time for its full gaining strength is reduced. It is necessary to start laying brickwork on the foundation surface no earlier than after 14-28 days.
Furnace body
In a Russian hut, a stove was installed in a corner not far from the door. About 20 cm receded from one wall, and about 1 meter from the other, where the front door was located. In this place, a closet was often equipped, where food and kitchen utensils were stored.
On the surface of the foundation, which has gained strength, 2 layers are laid waterproofing material(roofing material, roofing felt or others). Next, the base of the furnace (guardianship) is laid out. In the classic Russian stove of the past, they used wooden beam or log.
1 - underbake; 2 - undercoat; 3 - six; 4 - under; 5 - stuffing box; 6 - overlap; 7 - half-door; 8 - valve; 9 - chimney pipe
The pad was used for storage kitchen utensils, and inventory for the stove (tongs, pokers, frying pans) was placed in the under-bake. Now this part of the furnace is laid out mainly from brick (ordinary clay). And you need to use full-bodied. Brick is front and ordinary. The front one is used for cladding, the private one is used for the internal laying of the furnace. For surfaces in contact with open fire, it is necessary to use refractory bricks (fireclay), which can withstand temperatures above 1300 ° C.
Clay-sand mortar
The amount of sand in the clay-sand solution is determined depending on the fat content of the clay (fat - 2-4% sand, medium - 15% sand, lean - 30% sand). To achieve the most quality masonry, sand must be taken sifted through a sieve with cells of 3x3 mm.
Proportions of clay-sand mortar:
- Oily clay: 1 bucket of clay, 2.5 buckets of sand.
- Medium clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1.5 buckets of sand.
- Skinny clay: 1 bucket of clay, 1 bucket of sand.
To prepare the solution, put several buckets of crushed clay in a container and fill it with water for 24 hours. Then, the right amount of sand is added in portions to the soaked clay, constantly mixing until a homogeneous consistency.
Furnace tools
1 - square; 2 - pick; 3 - furnace hammer; 4 - level; 5 - ruler; 6 - trowel; 7 - plumb
materials
The design of the furnace itself is made of ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar based on M400 cement, in the proportion: 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand. The necessary mobility of the solution can be checked by placing part of it on the spade bayonet at an angle of 45 °. In this position, the finished solution should not drain. Before laying, the bricks are soaked for better adhesion to the mortar.
For the entire construction of the furnace, approximately 1,500 to 2,500 bricks, including refractory bricks, will be required, depending on the height of the room and the roof structure. The consumption of clay and sand in the solution is about 80 buckets. From the furnace fittings you will need: views, latches and half-doors.
The view is installed between the hail and the pipe to block the passage of hot gases from the crucible to keep the heat in the furnace. At the installation site of the view, an opening is made for laying a half-door, which can also be used as natural ventilation premises.
The dampers for the furnace are necessary in order to cover the mouth, regulating the thermal process in the furnace.
The valve is installed above the view to regulate the draft in the pipe and prevent the possibility of cold air from the pipe falling down.
Orders
The first row is laid on the waterproofing of the foundation. In the corners, 3/4-sized bricks and beveled bricks are used for better bonding of subsequent rows of masonry. The entire structure of the guard is laid out on a cement-sand mortar.
The second row is the beginning of laying the walls of the guardianship.
Third row. The construction of the walls of the guardianship continues with the use of bricks 3/4 in size.
The fourth row is laid out according to the given order and involves the use of beveled bricks for the support (heel) of the arch of the stove.
The fifth row is laid using 3/4 bricks in the corners of the furnace, beveled bricks to support the arch. Here the arch of the stove is laid out. A wooden template is pre-made, which is inserted into the opening of the stove.
The sixth row is laid out according to the order given. A wooden template for the vault of the guardianship is made in advance, which is inserted into the inner part of the masonry. In the process of making a template it is necessary to provide for its easy disassembly at the end of the masonry arch of the guardianship. For a snug fit of the template to the walls of the masonry, 1-2 spacers are driven in at the bottom.
The seventh row involves laying the vault and the next row. The vault begins to be laid out on both sides, gradually moving towards the middle. The last brick is called the castle brick, its role is to create compressive stress at the base of the vault, which will ensure the strength of such a structure. In this regard, the last brick is inserted into the gap less than 1/4 of the brick using a mallet. The bricks in the vault are stacked as close as possible to each other, so the seams below are made as small as possible, and the upper gaps are made of the same size, into which, if possible, brick fragments can be embedded.
The eighth row provides for one layer of laying the walls of the guardianship in accordance with the above order with the arrangement of the cold stove site.
Ninth row. In addition to one row of walls, the walls of the stove are also laid out.
The tenth row completes the laying of the walls of the guardianship. For better insulation cold part of the furnace from its hot part, the inner space is covered with dry calcined sand to the upper boundary of this row.
The eleventh row overlaps the stoves completely with the use of additional and beveled bricks. From this row, the cement-sand mortar is replaced by clay-sand.
The twelfth row begins the device of the hot part of the furnace (under, hearth). Therefore, all surfaces in contact with fire must be made of fire-resistant brick, the dimensions of which coincide with the dimensions of an ordinary one. The surface of the hearth must be even. To do this, it is polished with fine sand and brick, removing all the irregularities of the masonry. In addition, for the convenience of removing coal from the hearth, its surface is made with a slope towards the mouth.
The thirteenth row lays the cooking chamber and the hearth. An arc of the mouth made of hardened metal is also installed here. The hardened steel wire attached to it is laid in the masonry.
The fourteenth, fifteenth and sixteenth rows build the walls of the crucible and hearth.
The seventeenth row is the final one in the masonry of the mouth with an arched vault. At this stage, beveled brick heels are laid out, which are supports for brick vault of the cooking chamber, and also the formwork of the arch of the cooking chamber is inserted.
The eighteenth row is laid out according to the principle of the vault, which is described in the seventh row using clay-sand mortar and refractory bricks.
The nineteenth row involves building up the walls and arches of the hearth.
The twentieth row continues building up the walls, and also partially covers the hole above the hearth, leaving a channel for the overtube. The inner space above the cooking chamber is filled with dry calcined sand.
The twenty-first row covers the crucible. The overpipe channel is somewhat reduced for the device of a protrusion that prevents the penetration of sparks from the cooking space into the pipe. This is where the laying of the samovar channel begins.
The twenty-second row completes the overlap device. A stuffing box is installed in the channel of the samovar. The steel wire on its sleeve is embedded in the masonry.
The twenty-third row involves the laying of an overtube channel and a samovar. The air vent is attached here with the help of hardened steel wire. In this row, a small opening is made to remove soot from the ledge of the channel, which is covered with 1/2 brick, placed on the edge and smeared with clay mortar. During cleaning, this brick is knocked out, and at the end of cleaning it is replaced with a new one. Now they often put a special metal plug instead of a brick.
The twenty-fourth row is a continuation of the laying of the above channels.
Twenty-fifth row. In this row, a channel is allocated for installing a view.
The twenty-sixth row involves building up the vent channel, then the overtube channel is blocked and a view is installed.
The twenty-seventh row is laid out, as shown in the order. To access the view, a half-door is installed opposite it.
The twenty-eighth, twenty-ninth and thirtieth rows suggest further laying of channels with ligation of sutures.
The thirty-first row, according to the order, connects the air vent and the pipe through a narrow passage.
The thirty-second row covers the air vent and the channel connecting the air vent to the pipe. A valve for a tube is also installed here above the pipe channel.
The thirty-third and subsequent rows to the ceiling suggest laying a pipe channel.
Before reaching three rows to the ceiling, cutting is done to increase the thickness of the brickwork. This increases fire safety. wooden structures ceilings and roofs. Next, the pipe riser is laid out in the same dimensions as before cutting. To avoid the accumulation of condensate on the walls of the pipe, the pipe riser is plastered over a metal mesh. As the pipe passes through the wooden roof structures, the wall thickness of the channel also increases. The upper part of the pipe must be protected from the penetration of precipitation with a metal cap. The laying of the outer part of the pipe is carried out on a cement-sand mortar. For strength, it can be plastered.
1 - cutting; 2 - overlap; 3 - insulation; 4 - pipe riser; 5 - a metal sheet; 6 - otter; 7 - pipe neck; 8 - head; 9 - metal cap
The height of the outer part of the pipe to improve traction depends on its distance relative to the roof ridge.
Furnace-drying furnace
Before full operation of the furnace, it must be dried. The first furnace is carried out within 2 hours with a small amount of fuel. If the stove gives a lot of smoke, then a small fire is also lit on the view, when it goes out, the view is opened completely. After that, the furnace is lit again, without closing the pipe for the night. The drying process takes about a week.
There are several options for building furnaces. One of the most popular and sought after is the Russian stove. They are distinguished by the availability and cost-effectiveness of materials for its creation, ease of installation and excellent performance. We will learn how to build a Russian stove with our own hands further.
Do-it-yourself Russian stove - drawings, orders
Russian stove - was a traditional heating item for most houses of the last century. Its main components are the foundation part, guardianship, made of wood, stone, brick or concrete mortar.
Fuel is stored in the furnace part of the furnace, which dries well before use. Further, you do not need to make special efforts in order to melt the stove. Well-dried fuel flares up at the slightest spark. On the upper part of the stove there is a polycircular vault, on which there is a backfill for the manufacture of which sand, brick chips are used, fixed with clay mortar. The front part of the furnace section of the furnace is hob. Please note that bedding is the main element of the classic Russian stove. It gives the dishes a special taste.
The Russian stove is a heating device that is characterized by continuous heat output, even after the completion of the firebox. After the accumulation of heat, its issuance lasts for a day, with a properly equipped furnace design.
The principle of operation of the Russian stove is based on the presence of a cap, on its upper part there is an overtube, which tapers upward. The side part of the wall is distinguished by the presence of recesses that act as a device for the accumulation of ash. In the same recesses, the smoldering parts of the fuel are saved, which gradually give off heat until the next kindling of the furnace.
In some cases, the ash is stored on a stove made of stone or cast iron. In order to reduce the cost of the stove and increase the cleanliness of its operation, the ash pan is not equipped at all. This was done in the stoves of poor owners. In this case, only special fuel helped to keep the heat during the day, in the form of certain types of firewood, on top of which aspen was always placed. Such a stove is quite finicky and needs a special approach, so we recommend that you still stop at a design that has an ash pan.
In order to avoid smoke in the furnace, it is necessary to strictly follow the drawings of the Russian furnace with your own hands. Pay special attention to its walls, they should be particularly smooth. The zagnetka in any case is not subject to plastering. It is enough to polish it to a smooth state.
The central and most important part of the Russian stove, on which the quality of the operation of this device directly depends, is the firebox. There are two types of chambers inside it - cooking and fuel. For laying out the fireboxes, the services of experienced stove-makers were used, who built a break between these two parts.
Cooking is done by exposing the products to hot air, which further moves towards the fuel. The stoves, the firebox of which had a narrowing in the upper part, were distinguished by excellent performance characteristics.
An important secret of the correct functionality of the Russian stove is the presence of two vortices inside it, the rotational vibrations of which compensate each other, without forming turbulent moments. If the furnace threshold is too low, the circulation level is reduced.
In addition, the vortices inside the furnace trap unburned fuel particles, which smolder and additionally generate heat. Cooking in a Russian oven is performed without direct contact with heated air, so there are no carcinogens and toxins in it.
Particular attention should be paid to the manufacture of the crucible, its arch should be three-centered. Such a furnace is characterized by 100% combustion of fuel and the absence of smoke or sparking.
The lid serves not only as a place to heat the air, but also to maintain the temperature of previously cooked food. Therefore, we boldly declare that the main principle proper organization Russian stove is to create a complex smoke channel, without complex schemes and building barriers.
How to fold a Russian stove with your own hands
In order to end up with a high-quality furnace with high efficiency, it is necessary to initially pay Special attention device and functional features Russian oven. In relation to the region of location, stoves used to have various forms However, the principle of their organization is almost always the same.
The average dimensions of a Russian stove are:
- width - one hundred and forty centimeters;
- length - two hundred and ten centimeters;
- one hundred centimeters high.
Previously, these values were measured in arshins. At the same time, the average value of an arshin is seventy centimeters. However, the oven is almost always laid in compliance with the dimensions of the bricks, they must always remain intact.
This, the above version of the stove easily heats a room of thirty squares. Most often, the stove was located in the corner of the premises, which was located next to the door.
Before starting masonry, it is necessary to build a solid foundation from broken bricks or stone. On any stove there is an element in the form of a stove, it contains tools for servicing the stove. For high heat saving, a heat-insulating material was located between the stove and the wall.
The stove is made of bricks, which are placed on a special solution. The classic Russian oven was built from red bricks, as they differ high level strength.
The summary part of the stove is distinguished by the presence of a certain slope in relation to the mouth. Another important component is the bridging threshold, which prevents sparks from entering the chimney pipe. In addition, it is on the threshold that the soot coming out of the pipes is collected.
When building a furnace, special attention must be paid to order. Its horizontal plane is distinguished by the presence of cuts that help to understand the principle of the furnace. Do-it-yourself Russian oven diagram and order of masonry:
1. Initially, do-it-yourself drawings should be prepared for the Russian stove. In relation to them, the first row is laid on the base of the foundation. Please note that before this, the foundation, made of brick and concrete mortar, is waterproofed. For these purposes, use roofing material. It is recommended to build the first row of bricks with moisture resistant characteristics. Thus, the quality of the obtained furnace is improved.
2. In order for the subsequent dressing of the rows to be ideal, three ¾ bricks are laid in the first row. At the same time, one brick has a bevel, which ensures the most dense connection between them.
4. The fourth row is also made using whole bricks. Two bricks are distinguished by the presence of a bevel; they form an entrance arch in the under-furnace.
5. A wooden formwork is installed in the opening. After arranging the arch, the fifth row is laid. It equips three bricks by ¾. In this row, twenty bricks have a bevel, which provide high strength to the underlay.
6. In the process of laying a Russian stove with your own hands, drawings should always be at hand. In the sixth row, the side walls are laid in one brick, and the other walls in two. Between the surfaces of the inner walls, it is necessary to install a formwork, the upper part of which resembles a semicircle. Please note that the formwork must be of such a size that the structure can be easily disassembled, if necessary.
7. After the formwork is installed, work is carried out on the surface of the vault. It is recommended to equip the vault with wedge-shaped bricks, which improve the strength of the structure and make it as strong as possible.
8. It is possible to purchase such a brick or make it yourself. In the second case, it is enough to process the edges of the brick with a special tool.
9. Please note that the lower sections of the brick should be in close contact with each other. Used to fill gaps between bricks cement mortar.
10. After making the forearm part, the seventh and eighth rows should be laid. Laying the seventh row is carried out in full accordance with the first. The eighth row is made of whole bricks. Please note that in the eighth row a platform is set up, with the help of which a cold stove is made. Between their walls you need to scatter dried sand. In the eleventh row, the stove and backfill are overlapped.
11. The thirteenth row lays the walls of the furnace part and the hearth. These two elements are separated by a steel strip that matches the shape and size of the oven. This strip is distinguished by the presence of a hole that connects it to the common masonry with a wire.
12. Up to the seventeenth row, the walls of the two elements listed above are built up. In this row, the walls of the hearth are made using eight bricks pre-cut with a special tool. It is on them that the summary part of the crucible is based. Thus, the crucible is equipped in the same way as the previously made furnace.
13. After the manufacture of the summary part, the installation of the eighteenth row is carried out. It begins the formation of an arched opening. Please note that in the process of laying subsequent rows, the interval between the walls and the furnace is filled with dried sand, broken bricks and glass.
14. The crucible and backfill are closed on the twenty-second row. At the same time, on the next row they become stronger and stronger. There is also an element of the furnace, on which the samovar was previously located. The next rows cover the overtube, however, holes remain in them. In the first one there is a samovar chimney, and in the second one there is a view. On the next rows, the half-door is fixed.
15. The thirty-first row is laid in such a way that additional rows are arranged in three bricks. Thus, it is possible to form a chute that removes smoke from the furnace. The next row completely covers the over-pipe part. After the manufacture of thirty-three rows, the construction of the chimney part is carried out.
16. Bricks are laid over the ceiling, the cutting of which involves the removal of wooden structures. In addition, with the help of cutting, it is possible to achieve a decorative effect. In addition, the presence of cutting contributes to an increase in heat output.
Thus, the laying of the Russian stove is done by hand. Exact observance in the manufacture of the Russian stove by hand ordering is the key to obtaining a heater with high thermal efficiency.
Do-it-yourself Russian stoves on the street - manufacturing technology
Some owners make a Russian oven solely for the purpose of cooking food in it. In this case, it is located on the street. There are also mini-Russian stoves, which are easily transported from place to place and even transported in a car.
Before you read the instructions for building an outdoor stove, we suggest that you study the varieties of Russian stoves with your own hands:
1. Furnaces, for the manufacture of which brick is used. They differ in impressive dimensions and are used for heating the premises in which they are installed.
2. Medium-sized stoves installed in baths or cottages. Easily warm up a room up to thirty squares.
3. Mini Russian stoves, installed both outdoors and indoors. Their main function is aesthetically attractive appearance and cooking.
The lower part of the outdoor stove is the base. Inner part The stove is distinguished by the presence of a special empty chamber. It stores utensils and items used to care for the stove. The construction of the bottom of the fuel compartment is carried out in compliance with the slope, thus, it is possible to rationally and efficiently use the fuel.
The fuel part consists of the firebox itself and the cooking compartment. In addition, any Russian stove has a chimney, which ensures the removal of gases from the combustion of fuel.
To build a stove on the street follows from the preparation of the base and the creation of the foundation. For these purposes, broken bricks and cement mortar are used. The laying of the furnace is carried out in relation to the previously prepared scheme and order. The quality of the functioning of the furnace directly depends on the quality of the masonry composition, therefore, special attention should be paid to this issue.
Do-it-yourself Russian stoves video:
The Russian stove has not lost popularity until today. IN village houses, in dachas, such a heating facility is used for space heating, for sleeping and relaxing, as well as for cooking. A heated crucible keeps heat for a long time, so you can cook crumbly cereals in it, bake bread, simmer milk. How is a Russian stove built with your own hands? There are many subtleties in this process, but if you have the appropriate knowledge and skills, you can do everything yourself.
How a traditional Russian oven works
At the first stage, the novice master must understand the principle of functioning of the heating structure. The diagram below clearly shows the design of the Russian stove. The main elements include:
- under-furnace - firewood is stored and dried here;
- hearth - in such a niche you can put hot pots and pans removed from the oven;
- cooking chamber - food is cooked in it;
- cold stove - a niche for storing dishes;
- stuffing box - a hole leading to the chimney;
- couch - you can sleep on it, bask and relax after a hard day's work;
- view - a door that completely covers the chimney.
The device of a traditional Russian stove
The design of the Russian stove is thought out to the smallest detail, so common shortcomings have been eliminated in it. This refers to high fuel consumption, uneven heating. The average heating structure has specific dimensions: width - 142 cm, height - 213 cm, height from floor covering to the couch - 180 cm. The stove, which has the indicated dimensions, heats a room of 30 square meters. m.
Alternatively, instead of the traditional one, you can build a Russian mini-oven. What is its difference from classic version? Such a structure has a modified and rationalized design. The changes affected the base, since the new variation provides for the arrangement of two asymmetric fireboxes (main and additional). The cooking chamber is operated like a traditional oven. If necessary, it is closed with a damper.
The Russian stove "Housekeeper" warms up quickly and has a compact size
A mini stove is considered very economical because it uses energy efficiently and consumes a small amount of fuel. A significant advantage of such a structure is that in order to create comfortable temperature in the house you can use not only firewood, but also other types solid fuel.
Masonry scheme of the Russian mini-oven
Do-it-yourself oven construction: an overview of the main stages
The primordial traditions of our people are not forgotten, so the living warmth of crackling logs warms the soul and fills the house with comfort, as in the old days. How to fold the Russian stove yourself? First, materials are prepared: fireclay and red bricks, clay, sand, smoke dampers, roofing material, doors, grate, asbestos cord. It is also necessary to have at hand a level, a rubber mallet, construction pencils, a square, a tape measure, a drill with a mixer nozzle, a container for mixing the solution, and jointing. Building a Russian oven with your own hands is quite difficult, but if a person has a great desire, any idea can be realized. The process of building a heating structure consists of the following fundamental steps:
- execution of drawings with dimensions, determining the location of the furnace in the house, assessing the type of soil;
- arrangement of the foundation - a pit is dug, crushed stone and sand are laid at the bottom. The mixture is compacted and poured with a layer of concrete. Waterproofing is in progress;
- preparation of masonry mortar - main secret lies in the correctly selected ratio of clay and sand (1: 2). But we must not forget that the clay is of different quality. Therefore, the prepared solution must be checked for "fat content". To do this, the ball rolls up and rushes to the floor with force. If it crumbles, there is a lot of sand in the solution, and if it remains intact, the consistency is normal;
- laying orders - if you want to build a Russian stove with your own hands, the design scheme will become indispensable assistant. The first row is laid out from a whole brick, the next rows form an under-furnace in which firewood is stored. Then a cold stove is laid out, an ash pan, a cooking chamber and a lid are formed, a grate and a door are installed. After the 20th row, the construction of the pipe begins, smoke turns are laid out, the overtube is blocked by a metal damper. Further laying is carried out taking into account the height of the room. The chimney narrows, and then a pipe is formed that passes through the ceiling and roof.
Decorating a Russian stove: common options
The laying of heating structures is made of refractory bricks, which are not particularly elegant. Moreover, the rough surface collects dust and is difficult to clean. Finishing a Russian stove can be done in several ways:
- painting or whitewashing outside surface the oven is rubbed and treated with a penetrating primer, which is sold in stores. After the primer dries, you can start painting. For this purpose, a paint with high heat resistance is used. If whitewashing is performed, apply slaked lime with the addition of blue;
This is important to know: doors, dampers and other metal elements are treated with black silicone paint.
- plastering the stove with clay with further whitewashing is the most ancient method, which has some drawbacks. The main disadvantage is that the furnace needs an annual overhaul;
- decoration with tiles - anyone can do such a decoration of a Russian stove with their own hands. There is nothing complicated in this process: the tiles are pre-wetted in water, and then the cladding is performed;
Tiles are special decorative elements that combine beauty and practicality.
It is worth paying attention: one side of the tiles is decorated with an original pattern and covered with glaze. And on the back there is an open box, with which decorative tiles attached to the surface of the oven.
- lining ceramic tiles- This process begins with preparatory phase, during which dust and dirt are removed from the surface, the seams are cleaned. After that, a mesh with cells is attached. When facing, the tile is knocked out rubber mallet, and the remnants of the solution are immediately removed;
- do-it-yourself painting of a Russian stove - to apply an ornament, you must have a minimum set of tools and materials: sandpaper, chalk for surface preparation, flute and art brushes, paints.
The painted Russian stove looks original and unusual
Self-repair of a Russian stove
The effective functioning of any equipment depends on its condition. This also applies to brick heating structures. During long-term operation of the stove, various problems and malfunctions may occur:
- Cracks - they appear due to constant impact high temperatures. It is imperative to repair cracks, because the efficiency of the stove decreases. Plus, it comes out through the cracks carbon monoxide which can lead to serious poisoning. To eliminate this drawback, a solution consisting of clay, sand, salt is used. You can also purchase ready-made dry mix in a specialized store. Fireclay mortar is an environmentally friendly material with excellent characteristics.
- Chimney malfunction - when bad care behind the stove, the thrust weakens. How to check if the smoke comes out well? To do this, you need to burn aspen wood in the oven. If the smoke is dark and then light, everything is normal. If the smoke is black, you need to clean out the soot by pushing loose bricks.
- fallen off furnace door- to eliminate such a problem, you should beat off the plaster around the opening and clean the seams. Then the bricks are carefully loosened and removed, a metal strip is attached to the door and the laying is resumed.
During repair work The door can be sealed with tape. Then she won't get dirty
- Burnt grate - it must be replaced, following the dismantling rules.
Minor repairs can be done on your own, but the restoration of a Russian stove, as well as the construction of a heating structure, is best entrusted to professional craftsmen with the necessary knowledge and skills. Then the stove will serve faithfully for many years!
Video: we put the Russian stove with our own hands
Since ancient times, Russia has been famous for craftsmen who have achieved excellence in many areas. The oven business was no exception. Based on historical documents, it can be concluded that for many centuries Russia has firmly held leadership in the furnace business. The kurny type stove, that is, with the missing chimney, served for a long time as an ideal Russian example. In 1718, however, Peter I issued a decree according to which the use of smoking stoves was strictly prohibited. It was this decree that prompted many domestic stove-makers and architects to create a completely new design.
In order to successfully complete the laying of a traditional Russian stove, you should learn some of the subtleties of its functioning and device. Depending on the region, the stove could have a unique shape. Sometimes it was possible to see extremely interesting specimens. On average, the dimensions of the Russian stove looked like this:
- 2 arshins wide;
- 3 arshins in length;
- 2.5 arshins in height (arshin - about 71 centimeters).
A stove with such dimensions could easily heat a room whose area was about 3 dozen squares. In most cases, the stove was located in a corner, not far from front door. Before laying, the master always did solid foundation using broken bricks or stones. Any stove had a special structural element - a sub-furnace, where it was stored essential tool. To save heat, a special material was placed between the arches and the wall of the stove.
During the construction process, the master used bricks, as well as a special mortar. Classical technology involves the use of clay red brick, which is characterized by maximum strength.
Construction features
To make a classic Russian stove, you will have to take 1650 bricks, a valve (the dimensions of the hole should be 26 by 24 centimeters), a view with a half-door, as well as such an amount of clay and sand that would be enough for 80 buckets of mortar.
According to classical scheme, the arch of the crucible is necessarily located at a certain slope to the mouth. We must not forget about a small protrusion-sill, the main task of which is that it does not allow sparks flying out of the crucible to get inside the pipe. In addition, it is the threshold that collects all the soot that comes out of the stove.
Directly in the process of construction, the main assistants should be orders, that is, cuts running in a horizontal plane. Thanks to these cuts, you can get an absolute idea of how to approach the layout of a new row, when there is a need to use whole or broken bricks, where additional wood fixtures and metal appliances should be.
Orders and their scheme
The layout of the first row takes place directly on the foundation, the basis of which is a mortar of cement and brick. Before starting the laying of the first row, you should lay roofing material or roofing felt, which will perform the function of protection against moisture. Ideally, the construction of the first row should be carried out with reheated bricks, which are more resistant to water exposure.
In order to achieve a perfect dressing of the seams in the next row, three ¾ bricks should be laid at the corners of the starting row. One of the 3/4 bricks, as well as the brick adjacent to it, should be beveled for the tightest possible fit.
The second row is the first row in the process of laying out the walls of the furnace. In order for the seams not to coincide, 4 ¾ bricks are used on the front wall of the stove (in the 3rd row).
For the fourth row, exclusively solid bricks are used. The pair of bricks that mark the entrance to the underfurnace must be beveled at the corners so that they can be used as supports for the arch.
In the opening of the stove, a timber formwork should be placed. After the work on the arch is completed, you can do the fifth row. In order to avoid the coincidence of the seams of adjacent rows, 3 bricks ¾ should be laid at the corners. The nuance of this row lies in the fact that 2 dozen bricks of the side walls need to be chipped at a certain angle so that they become supports for the vaults of the furnace.
The sixth row assumes that the side walls of the stove are one brick thick, and the front and back are 2 bricks thick. In the space between interior walls there is a formwork having an upper part of a semicircular shape, which is in accordance with the configuration of the arch of the underfurnace. The formwork configuration is immediately determined, taking into account the possibility of disassembling the structure without any problems and pulling it out through the opening, which allows getting into the under-furnace.
When the formwork is installed, you can work on the vault. Ideally, when laying the vault, wedge-shaped bricks should be used, which contribute not only perfect surface design, but also its maximum strength. You can make such a brick yourself if you carefully process the edges. If it is not possible to make such a brick, then it is quite possible to use the usual one.
In such a situation, it should be controlled that the lower edges of the bricks are in close contact, and the gaps between the upper ones are equal to each other and filled with cement. You can increase the strength of the vault if you place a broken brick in the gaps that exactly matches them in size.
After the arch of the undercarriage, you can engage in 7 and 8 rows. Laying 7 resembles the first row, while 8 can be made entirely of solid bricks. In the 8th row, you must not forget to lay out a platform for a cold stove. 9 row - this is the first row associated with the walls of the stove. Dry sand must be located between the walls, and the 11th row must 100 percent cover not only the stove, but also the backfill.
In the 13th row, the laying of the walls of the crucible and the hearth begins. Between these two elements there should be a metal strip, which in its configuration exactly corresponds to the mouth of the stove. In the strip, it is necessary to provide holes in advance through which a steel wire is threaded, which is subsequently fixed in the masonry.
Subsequent rows, up to 17, are necessary to build up the walls of the two structures described below. In the 17th row, 8 bricks should be placed in the walls of the furnace, which were previously hewn and chipped. It is on these bricks that the vault of the furnace will rest. In fact, the laying of the crucible itself is completely identical to the process of laying the vault of the furnace.
When work on the arch is completed, you can practice 18 side by side. On the sides of the shestkovy window, a pair of heels should be fixed, which will become supports for small sizes arches. When laying subsequent rows, it should be remembered that the space between the arch and the walls of the furnace must be filled with perfectly dry sand mixed with broken bricks, gravel and glass.
21 row should absolutely close the backfill and crucible. 22 row makes this “lid” even stronger. The 23rd row implies the strengthening of the shield walls, as well as the overtube, in which the air vent, designed for the samovar, is fixed. When laying the next rows, the overtube overlaps, but a couple of holes remain. The first is necessary for a samovar chimney, the second - for a view. When laying a pair of the next rows, a half-door is fixed in the opening of the view.
In row 31, next to one of the walls, it is necessary to place an additional row of three bricks so that the resulting gutter contributes to the removal of smoke into the chimney. The overtube in the next row can be completely blocked. Only on the right in the overtube it is necessary to provide a hole closed by a valve. After the 33rd row, only the chimney is built up.
Right at the ceiling, you need to do the cutting, which involves the overlap of bricks. With the help of cutting, wooden ceiling structures are removed from the pipe. In addition, cutting is an important decorative element. It has a cutting, however, and a practical function, increasing heat transfer.
