Water pipes      06/13/2019

How to protect indoor hibiscus from pests and diseases. Common Houseplant Diseases: Sticky Leaves

Scale insects and false scale insects are sucking parasitic insects of the family Hemiptera, superfamily worms that feed on cell sap. On shoots, leaves, petioles and trunks, they look like tubercles or brown droplets of wax 2-5 mm in size. Quite easily removed with a fingernail, when pressed, a yellowish thick liquid is released from them. The leaf tissues under the shield are often discolored. On the leaves of the affected plant, as well as closely standing neighboring plants, a sticky coating of insect secretions often appears. From above, the pests are covered with waxy shields that protect them from the effects of contact insecticides, so systemic preparations of intestinal action are the most effective. The mealybug is a sucking insect, related to the scale insects, of the Hemiptera family, the superfamily of the worms. It looks like a fluffy articulated rounded insect, about 3-5 mm, which, when crushed, releases an orange liquid. Colonies look like pieces of white cotton in the axils of leaves and shoots. With a strong lesion, the colonies are also located on the leaves and trunks, often a sticky coating appears on the leaves. Juveniles are small and very mobile. The waxy coating makes the mealybug not very susceptible to contact preparations. Most effective against mealybug are systemic preparations of intestinal action. Measures to combat scale insects, false scales, and mealybugs. Alcohol treatment, treatment with a water-oil emulsion, replacement of the top layer of soil, the main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil with a solution of 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments (after 1-2 days) with Acarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Karate, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with a 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days). Thrips control measures. Hang sticky traps of blue and yellow color. The main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil with a solution of 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments with Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g/10 l). If thrips is found, all plants in the house must be treated. Processing part of the collection may not give the desired result. Whitefly control measures. Yellow sticky traps, main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments with contact preparations Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio , Inta-vir, Fitoverm (4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g / 10 l). As an additional method, a thermal method can be proposed. At temperatures above +40 ... +45 C, thermal shock occurs in insects. need to heat up closed space with insects affected by whiteflies up to this temperature, which is easy to do on a glazed and clogged balcony on a sunny day or in a greenhouse.

Aphid is a sucking insect from the order of Hemiptera green, brown, black, 2 mm. Forms colonies mainly on the tops of the shoots. There are colonies of wingless and winged individuals. When the plant is located outdoors (on the ground) in the summer, ants are often indicators of damage, which feed on the sweet secretion of aphids, droplets of sticky honeydew are also observed on the leaves.

Measures to combat aphids. Single or double treatment with Actara (spraying at a concentration of 4 g / 5 l and watering at a concentration of 1 g / 10 l), Acarin, Agravertin or Iskra-bio (spraying 5-8 ml / l), or another insecticide according to the instructions. During processing, insects may not die immediately, but after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated, as aphids move easily.

Weevils.

Weevils are shiny small beetles, the body shape is elongated to rounded. A distinctive feature is the presence of a rostrum (an elongated part of the head). They feed on leaves, flowers, roots, sometimes being inside plant tissues. Often, adult insects feed on the aerial parts of plants, their larvae feed on roots. On indoor plants, the presence of weevil can be identified by round or semicircular holes in the leaves. You can not see the weevil right away, because it is nocturnal. The most effective will be systemic preparations of intestinal action Measures to combat the weevil. Manual assembly adult insects, spraying with Aktara (4 g / 5 l), spilling the soil with Aktara (1 g / 10 l), 4-fold treatment every 7-10 days.

The spider mite belongs to arachnid arthropods; it feeds on cell sap through leaf bites. Is a common pest indoor plants. Signs of damage: on the underside of the leaf (sometimes on the top) there are small, about 0.5 mm, light grains (as if sprinkled with flour), with mass defeat visible web. The leaf at the bite is discolored, covered with small yellow spots. Subsequently, with a strong defeat, the leaf falls off. The mite easily spreads through the air, is present always and everywhere, but affects only weakened plants. Strong plants that are kept in optimal conditions are able to resist the mite. Risk factors include too dry air, overheating of a plant or a clod of earth in the sun, drying out of the soil, dehydration (sometimes roots rot and die due to excessive watering), improper feeding, often an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.

Methods of dealing with spider mites. In order to prevent the plant, it is useful to spray it often with cold (namely cold) water, especially the underside of the leaf. For emergency assistance, it is necessary to wash the plant in the shower and treat with acaricides. IN room conditions it is better to use Vertimek, Fitoverm. However, these drugs do not act on all stages of the tick - at least three treatments are required at + 200C after 10 days, or at + 300C after 3-4 days. Treatment with Akarin, Agravertin, Neoron will also help (4-fold treatments with an interval of 7-10 days). However, if the rules for caring for the plant are not followed chemical treatments help only temporarily. To completely get rid of the tick, it is necessary to provide the plant with optimal conditions. Then strong cell walls are formed, which the tick is not able to damage. Prophylactic irradiation of medical equipment is effective. ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes weekly (to prevent the development of a new generation of individuals from eggs, which occurs exactly within 7 days). Methods of dealing with gall nematodes. It is necessary to try to remove badly damaged areas of the roots. Thermally treat the root system and soil by immersion in a large volume of water with a temperature of +500C. From chemicals Fitoverm or Agravertin are recommended when dry powder is applied to the soil, but there are no drugs in retail sale in this form. Ecogel proved to be effective against nematodes, which was initially considered only as an anti-stress drug. Chitosan, which is part of the Ecogel, strengthens the cell walls so much that the nutrition and spread of the nematode in the tissues of the plant becomes impossible. It should be borne in mind that in some plants the presence of nodules on the roots is the norm, they should not be confused with galls. In members of the legume family, nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in such nodules. The water-oil emulsion is based on the effect of oil blocking the spiracles of insects. To give greater covering power, the oil is mixed with soap solutions. A glass of water is taken a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of machine (can be sunflower) oil, all this is shaken until an emulsion is formed and applied with a cotton swab or brush to all surfaces of the plant, while it is imperative to protect the soil from emulsion drops. The plant is left treated for several hours, then thoroughly washed in the shower. The tolerance of the leaves to such exposure should be checked.

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Hibiscus: care

Who doesn't want to have a flowering tree in their house? Especially if, in terms of whimsicality, it is inferior to many of its brethren! Chinese hibiscus is called a rose for a reason, the flowers of some species really resemble a blossoming rose bud. How to provide the conditions in which the plant will bloom?

Family: Malvaceae. Flowering: regularly. Cultivation: simple.

Hibiscus - Chinese rose (species, photos)

The first information about the plant refers to Ancient Greece. By the way, the Mediterranean climate is a favorable environment for Chinese rose! Its habitat covers the countries of the tropical and subtropical climate. For example, on the streets of Vietnam or Thailand, the rose feels great! The flower belongs to the mallow family, and its genus includes not only shrubs, but trees and even herbs, in total there are up to 500 different species.

In places of original growth, local aboriginal women wove its flowers into their hair, perhaps that is why the plant was called the “flower of beautiful women”! Initially, Chinese hibiscus was a tree up to 5 meters high, but for indoor cultivation breeders have bred more miniature varieties. And, although the rose allows you to admire its flowers for only one day, the flowering period can last for months! And terry flowers will delight you for up to three days.



Do you know?

In Malaysia, the flower received the title of national. Its five-petal variety is a symbol of the five commandments of Islam!

By the way, the view is not limited to the Chinese representative. Syrian hibiscus, native to Asia Minor, is a shrub suitable for outdoor cultivation. However, only for the southern strip of Russia. Indeed, in the conditions of a short summer, he simply does not have time to bloom! Its flowers are often confused with mallow.

There is another species that is sometimes called a weed, this is the ternary hibiscus. A flower up to 80 cm high has chosen the African continent, and grows by itself in pastures and wastelands. Perhaps that's why he got such an offensive nickname!


hibiscus syriacus and trifoliate

Hibiscus dissected-petal - this beautiful view received the name "princess earrings". It is shaped like a bell with curved petals resembling wings. exotic bird! It comes from Brazil, grows in the coastal strip, or tropical forests, suitable for home floriculture.


hibiscus dissected

Do you know?

The plant is edible! The flowers are used in tea, the leaves are added to salads, the seeds are used for confectionery purposes, and the ripened fruits are highly valued for making jams, compotes and even soups.

By the way, the famous hibiscus tea has nothing to do with the usual indoor rosan! The raw materials for it are the cups of Sudanese hibiscus flowers, which increase in size after flowering. Unlike its relatives, this species is distributed mainly in the Arab countries, especially in Egypt and Sudan due to climatic preferences.


sudanese rose

Care rules

At home, hibiscus is not picky. Sometimes you can observe gorgeous flowering plants in completely unsuitable conditions! And yet, if you want to achieve a beautiful crown and long flowering, you need to make a little effort! Hibiscus care and cultivation.

Temperature and lighting

The only whim of a flower is that it needs light! In summer it should be diffused sunlight, with shading from direct rays. In winter, when the sun is scarce, it is necessary to provide it with artificial lighting in order to extend daylight hours to 10-12 hours. How to create backlight for flowers?

Hibiscus Chinese is able to bloom even in winter, if the room is warm and light. Feel free to take it out in the summer! The flower is not afraid of temperature changes. But when it drops to 12 degrees, it is advisable to return it to the room, in such conditions the roots stop absorbing moisture.

Watering and humidity

In summer, wide leaves actively evaporate moisture, the higher the temperature, the more active watering should be. However, don't overdo it! It is better to water it less often, but more abundantly than to supply water often and in small doses!

In addition, the flower itself signals the need for watering by lowering the leaves. It is preferable to water in the morning, during the day the roots actively consume water. With a decrease in temperature, watering is reduced. 8 questions about watering indoor plants.

Be sure to spray the Chinese rose, it needs moist air no matter the season! Sometimes give the plant a warm shower, after covering the pot with a bag. Hibiscus, the care of which is not difficult even for a beginner grower, is a very grateful plant. If the minimum conditions are met, it will definitely bloom! No wonder it is called the “flower of love”. During abundant flowering it is desirable to minimize spraying. After all, moisture that gets on the petals of flowers accelerates the process of their withering.

Fertilizers and top dressings

Experienced flower growers have noticed that an excess of phosphorus does not have the best effect on the quality of flowering! Conventional fertilizers for flowering crops contain minerals in the following proportion ≈15-21-25 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). A more successful dosage would be ≈ 10-4-12 (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). Therefore, carefully study the composition of the fertilizer! How to choose mineral fertilizer.

To prevent chlorosis, Chinese hibiscus can sometimes be fed with magnesium on a leaf (leaf method). The plant responds well to organic fertilizers- mullein and ash. It is especially important to fertilize a rose in the spring and summer, during flowering and growing new leaves. By the way, before you "feed" the roots with fertilizer, you must first moisten them with water for irrigation! How to use organic for flowers.

Foliar top dressing will be useful - spraying with stimulating drugs, organic, or mineral fertilizers in a reduced concentration (10 times lower than with root top dressing). In winter, if the leaves continue to grow, you can fertilize the rosan once a month. With a pronounced dormant period, fertilizers are not used!

Hibiscus pruning!

Hibiscus care involves regular pruning, it is needed to renew the crown and is a guarantee of flowering. If your pet already blooms regularly, and also has a crown desired shape He doesn't need a haircut. Although they say that this flower can be cut all year round, this is not true! In conditions of short daylight hours, it will be difficult for him to grow new leaves, and the old ones will turn yellow. Therefore, it is more reliable to cut the crown in the second half of March-April, when the sun is already active. Then it is guaranteed to bloom in June-July. Do not be afraid of "cardinal haircuts", new leaves will grow quickly!

It is better to prune three days after watering. Keep in mind that the location of the leaf gives the direction of the escape! So, leaving the last leaf growing down, you will get a new branch that will repeat its direction. As shown in the photo, when cutting, step back from the sheet by about 5 mm.

Reproduction and transplant

The cuttings obtained after pruning are easily rooted in water, after which they can be planted in the ground. Some varieties are successfully propagated by seeds. It is desirable to transplant Chinese hibiscus by transshipment, as its roots are fragile and thin! A transplant is required only if the rosette, in your opinion, is cramped in a pot. In a container that is too large, the tree gives new leaves, but does not bloom. How to choose a flower pot.

The soil for the plant must be nutritious and moisture-intensive, for this garden soil is mixed with humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. The flower must be provided with good drainage and air access to the roots. Don't forget to loosen the ground sometimes! The first time after transplanting, it is recommended to water the rose from the pan to stimulate root growth. What kind of soil is right for your flower.

Growing problems?

Hibiscus, the care of which does not require much effort, can sometimes still be capricious! What are the most common ailments associated with?

  • If the hibiscus turns yellow and the leaves fall ...

In winter, the cause of leaf fall may be a lack of sun. For deciduous plants this is the norm! To keep up the strength room rose, you can carry out foliar feeding with a solution of magnesium sulfate. However, if there is massive yellowing, it is worth checking the rose for pests. Eg, spider mite! Especially often it attacks weakened plants. Its presence is betrayed by a cobweb between the leaves, and sometimes the tick itself can be seen on the back of the leaf. In any case, bathe the rose in the shower more often as a preventive measure!

Another reason could be a change temperature regime. In the cool, the roots stop drinking water, so the plant can be easily flooded. Be careful!

  • If the hibiscus has faded leaves ...

In this case, the spider mite could “try”! But, perhaps, a plaque from water, or dust, simply accumulated on the leaves. Keep in mind that the older the leaf, the less bright its color becomes. Mostly young leaves are juicy! Shaping pruning, enough light and periodic warm showers can save the situation.

  • If the hibiscus has deformed leaves ...

This phenomenon is often observed after transplantation if there has been damage to the roots! The rose will quickly recover if it is provided with good lighting, regular watering and top dressing, including foliar. It is worth noting that slight deformation leaves, namely corrugation - a natural feature of Chinese hibiscus!

Also, the reason may be a sharp change in conditions of detention: cooling, watering or spraying with cool water, excess fertilizer. Delicate leaves noticeably react to any changes, especially with regards to the temperature regime. Even a short-term drop in temperature could cause deformation of young foliage! If conditions stabilize, new leaves should grow evenly.

  • If the tips of the leaves of the hibiscus dry ...

Usually this situation occurs in winter, when the apartment is dry from batteries and there is not enough light. Winter is a hard time for a flower! If possible, you need to provide it with artificial lighting, spray it often, wash it in the shower and water it with great care. During this period, do not rush to fertilize hibiscus, it is better to start top dressing in the spring. If the room is cool, or the pot is on a cool windowsill, the roots may stop absorbing water altogether. In this case, watering is reduced to a minimum so as not to flood the plant.

This plant needs at least 6 hours of sunlight to flower! Put it closer to the window, in the summer you can safely take it out to the balcony or veranda. Fresh air does wonders for the plant! But, do not forget to shade the tree from direct midday rays.

  • If the hibiscus is dropping buds...

According to one version, he may not have enough light, or food. An overabundance of minerals in the soil is also possible! Think about whether you have overfed your flower? Feeding should be carried out no more than once every 10 days, strictly observing the dosage. Also, the reason could be a change in location, or temperature. In general, when the rose has bloomed, it is better not to change the conditions of detention.

  • Sticky sap on hibiscus leaves...

droplets of sticky substance inside leaf is normal for a Chinese rose! It may be due to temperature changes, or overheating. And yet, it is not superfluous to check the plant for pests (aphids, scale insects).

It is important to know:

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments or on the forum. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

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Hibiscus indoor. Care

The very first indoor “flower” that I grew with my own hands was the Chinese hibiscus, or, as we called this plant, the Chinese rose. I remember very well the day he appeared in our house. I am 15 years old. In the lobby of the polyclinic, a huge and obviously once beautiful bush. Constantly looking around, I I break off a branch and hide it in my bag.

Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many events with me. And just recently I celebrated her 25th birthday.

Chinese hibiscus, or Chinese rose (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the Malvaceae family. The birthplace of this incredibly beautifully flowering shrub is Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, and 25 years ago we knew only a red-flowered terry form.

Those who decide to have a hibiscus in their home should remember that this is a sprawling, fast-growing shrub that will need a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, now compact slow-growing varieties have appeared on sale.

Hibiscus is easy to grow from non-lignified green shoots remaining after the annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are shortened by half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes, in the process of rooting, the leaves on the cutting fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from sleeping buds.

Hibiscus can be rooted in water. When small white growths (callus) appear on the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. She can be replaced plastic bag or transparent plastic bottle, necessarily with ventilation holes. With the advent of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and put on permanent place.

Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots "throw out" bud after bud from the apical point of growth. It's funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!

It lasts exactly a day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on the southern windows - all year round.

As soon as the hibiscus begins to prepare for flowering, it should be given more attention. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great delicacy for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, then immediately treat the plant with the Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely healed.

Hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, in mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut off at an arbitrarily chosen height. If a bush has formed, then you need to follow certain pruning rules recommended by experts. Each shoot is cut 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Part of the shoots was cut according to the recommendation, and part contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were cut according to the rules gave several side shoots. And the “wrong” ones grew only one young shoot from the upper bud.

In the spring, simultaneously with pruning, the hibiscus is transplanted or transferred to a fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults, start 7-10 years old - as needed. In large tub specimens, the top layer of the earth should be changed annually.

Hibiscus are big "gluttons", so I add a little rotted mullein to a fresh substrate.

Earlier, when I was just starting to do indoor floriculture, I collected rotted leaves in the park and mixed it into the earthen mixture during transplantation. Feed hibiscus every 2 weeks with fertilizer for flowering crops.

In the summer it is better to take them out on open air. Watering with soft rainwater, abundance sunlight, fresh air harden the plant before a long and difficult wintering. Minimum temperature, which the Chinese hibiscus can withstand - plus 10-12 ″С. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and death of the plant.

In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, and new ones do not form. There is a period of relative calm. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With batteries included central heating there is another danger - the invasion of the spider mite. This pest should also be disposed of with the help of appropriate preparations. A few years ago my hibiscus got sick. What happened, I still don't know. The leaves began to fly around, the shoots stopped growing, the growth points dried up. Wait for death. I didn’t become a plant, I took it out of the pot, examined the roots. They were knotted and very densely interlaced, I did not find anything else alarming. Slightly "stirring up" the root system, cut it off a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted a bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. For about a year, the hibiscus showed no signs of life. He didn't die, but he didn't grow either. No fertilizers and stimulants helped. Quite desperate, I began to water him with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to come to life. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when my hands dropped, my hibiscus suddenly “woke up”: young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he became more and more like himself. He met his 25th anniversary, covered with new shiny dense foliage.

Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds. However, of all the varietal seeds found on sale, I managed to grow only hibiscus ‘Tsar Bell’. All 5 seeds sprouted together after 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. A huge (15 cm in diameter!) flower opened on one of them. Surprising vitality was shown by seedlings, for lack of space left in small pots. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried up, the leaves hung down and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in the ox, the turgor was completely restored after a few hours. In autumn, due to insufficient lighting, the seedlings began to lose leaves, then the shoots began to die. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying off stopped. In the spring, the plants began to grow. After the earth warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the inscription “Winter-hardy!” was emblazoned on the colorful seed bag, the plants felt open field uncomfortable, shoot growth stopped. Until autumn, only 3 seedlings “reached out”, and not one survived the winter.

Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the arrival of new, hitherto unknown varieties on our flower market, we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but it is dear to me, like an old and reliable friend.

On a note:

Varieties of gladioli - VARIETIES OF CHAMPIONS OF GLADIOLUS

Hibiscus often decorates not only our homes, but also offices, shops, premises of household services. This plant, in principle, is unpretentious, but it has small enemies: pests and diseases that sometimes seriously annoy the Chinese rose. Knowing what hibiscus diseases are, analyzing their causes, you can prevent diseases, avoid problems by caring for the plant correctly. If troubles could not be avoided, urgent action must be taken.

Hibiscus diseases: some causes

The most common mistakes in caring for a Chinese rose, which beginner flower growers sometimes make, are as follows:

  • Excessive watering, which caused partial root rot;
  • Hibiscus stands in the wind, in a draft, or in a zone of direct sunlight;
  • The plant is in a hot room, while the air is dry;
  • The hibiscus was not transplanted on time;
  • Hibiscus leaves are covered with dust;
  • Complete or partial lack of spraying (especially in summer);
  • Water for irrigation of poor quality, not settled and with impurities;
  • Poor lighting, the plant is in a dark place;
  • Excessive feeding;
  • Lack of nutrition.

In addition to the above, you need to take into account that you can not put hibiscus next to diseased plants, such contact will lead to damage by pests, to various diseases.

Hibiscus leaves: why they get sick

If the leaves of the Chinese rose are affected, then this is mainly due to the appearance of chlorosis.

This disease occurs due to the fact that the production of chlorophyll in the green parts of the plant is reduced. The leaves lose their natural color, become pale, sometimes almost yellow.

Timely transplantation, lack of contact with already sick pets, regular cleaning of layers of dust, as well as regular application of suitable fertilizers. Sometimes the plant must be bathed under an indirect shower jet, carefully covering the ground with a piece of polyethylene. A new plant needs to be put on a small quarantine.

iron deficiency

Hibiscus sometimes sheds its leaves completely. This phenomenon is a sign of iron deficiency. Most affordable way help the plant, if the hibiscus has completely fallen off - spray it with an iron chelate preparation. The cause of the disease may also be that the fertilizer for the pet is chosen incorrectly: it contains little or no hibiscus necessary useful substances and micronutrients.

Sunburn

As a rule, all hibiscus perfectly tolerate the direct rays of the sun, but if the Chinese rose lived for a long time in a shady place, and then it was placed very sharply on a sunny windowsill (without an adaptation period), then sunburn may occur on the leaves. Outwardly, it looks like slightly yellowish or even red dryish spots. All burnt leaves will have to be removed, and the plant should be accustomed to the bright sun not so sharply.

Sometimes it happens that the leaves are accidentally pressed against the surface of the glass, in which case a burn may also occur. Sunburn is the main reason why hibiscus leaves curl. In order to prevent this phenomenon, all plants that are grown in greenhouses should be taken out to the daytime sun for a couple of hours daily. If at home the hibiscus was in the shade, then you should also put it in the sun for a short time, and then remove it. Gradually, instead of the burnt leaves, new ones will grow, already completely healthy.

Adverse Symptoms

  • If hibiscus leaves fall, then most likely the room is too dry, and spraying is either not carried out, or it is clearly not enough. Drafts, replacement of lighting (sharp), other stress can also be the cause.
  • Sharp yellowing a large number leaves can mean both infection with some pests, and diseases of the root system, chlorosis, or insufficient humidity in the room.
  • If the tips of the leaves wither or dry, then there is a lack of trace elements (for example, nitrogen or phosphorus), other nutrients, and insufficient feeding of hibiscus.
  • When the leaves become very lethargic, this means that the temperature allowed for the maintenance of the plant is exceeded, which is clearly above the norm.
  • A sharp yellowing in combination with regularly falling leaves can often mean excessive moisture in the roots in winter, or vice versa, a low level of humidity in the room.
  • Close attention also deserves the so-called vascular wilt of hibiscus. The rapidity of the development of the disease sometimes does not make it possible to take timely necessary measures and save the plant. It is necessary to cut off very quickly (partially capturing healthy branches) the diseased parts of the hibiscus, then treat the entire plant with any antifungal drugs.

Not enough trace elements

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the lack of nutrients, poor feeding of the plant. So, what to do if the hibiscus is clearly lacking in potassium or magnesium, zinc? When yellow spots appear on the hibiscus, you just need to replace the soil or apply special preparations that will make up for the lack of minerals. For example, if the plant lacks zinc, the leaves become too small, small specks soon appear on the leaves.

If the hibiscus does not have enough sulfur, then the edges of the leaf look brown, and if there is not enough magnesium, then chlorosis may appear on this plant, which occurs between the veins. The sheet becomes as if marbled, partially white, in some places it may appear dark spots. The lack of potassium is most clearly expressed in the partial or complete death of the edges of the leaf, this phenomenon looks very similar to the burn mentioned above.

Aphids, gall midges and other pests on hibiscus

Some inexperienced flower growers do not know why hibiscus leaves curl. Often this phenomenon means that the plant is damaged by aphids or some other pests that are dangerous for the plant. For this reason, it is extremely important not to wait for their appearance, but to periodically carry out preventive maintenance, it is especially important to do this before taking your pet out to the balcony or outside in the warm season, and before bringing the plants into the room in the fall.

If an aphid has appeared on the hibiscus, which is attracted by young and succulent shoots, then this will be immediately noticeable, as the leaves become a little sticky, then they begin to curl, or bend. In this case, all insects are first removed by the usual mechanical method (using a swab and laundry soap). After this procedure, hibiscus must be carefully treated with special aphid preparations that are commercially available. You can also remember about folk methods but they are not always reliable and efficient.

If the usual means and prevention of diseases that were caused by pests were ineffective, while the hibiscus leaf curls or is affected in another way, additional methods of its treatment should be carried out. For example, if aphids are affected, spraying with insecticides (for example, Aktellik preparation) can be done. After two treatments, carried out with an interval of a couple of weeks, as a rule, the plant returns to normal.

Other hibiscus pests are:

  • Midge gall midge, which causes partial fall, a sharp yellowing of the leaves and buds of indoor hibiscus, sometimes they do not even have time to fully bloom. Upon careful examination of the plant, in the buds you can see tiny eggs this midge, then worms will appear from them, which eat the bud inside.
  • If the plant is affected by the whitefly, the leaves turn yellow, become sticky and sticky, and the insects themselves can be found on the underside of the leaves. The whitefly is removed using potassium soap, as well as special preparations (Aktara or Karbofos, as well as Iskra and Tanrek).
  • If a tea rose has waxy white discharge (on cuttings, on leaves), then the plant is affected by a mealybug, the leaves can be treated with mineral oil. During the procedures, the plant should stand in a shady place.
  • If brownish bumps are visible on the leaves, then this may be a scale insect.

It is good to remember the folk remedies with which our grandmothers washed the leaves of domestic plants from pests, aphids and scale insects. For example, red pepper (dry) is poured with water in a ratio of one to two, boiled for an hour and filtered. Ten grams of the solution is diluted in one liter of water with laundry soap, with which the whole plant is treated. Also, in one liter of water, fifty grams of dry mustard can be boiled for 15 minutes. The resulting broth is diluted in 20 liters of water and the affected plant is sprayed.

More about pests: spider mites on hibiscus

If the air in the room is dry and spraying is not carried out regularly, then good conditions for the development of mites on hibiscus, their colonies multiply rapidly, feeding on the juice from the leaves. The appearance of a spider mite can very quickly completely destroy the plant, so you need to know the characteristic signs of its presence. First of all, these are spots on the leaves, they can be brown or black, in fact, they are pest excrement.

The upper parts of the leaves are completely covered with small yellowish spots, the affected leaf loses its natural color, then becomes covered with a web of cobwebs, then falls off. Ticks migrate along the web and destroy the entire plant.

For prevention, you need to monitor the humidity in the room, spray hibiscus regularly, avoiding dryness.

So, if you carefully observe all the necessary conditions to grow a healthy plant, it is unlikely that diseases and pests will bother your hibiscus. Proper care is the key to an attractive appearance, rich flowering, as well as strong immunity, which will help the plant cope on its own even with the invasion of pests.

There are several diseases that affect different parts of the flower:

Differences from pest damage

Possible consequences

The consequences of diseases for the Chinese rose directly depend on which disease struck and at what stage the lesion. If the disease was detected on time, then the plant can still be saved by taking urgent measures.. The main consequences of the diseases remain:

  • loss of decorativeness;
  • growth retardation;
  • death.

When is resuscitation possible and when not?

Resuscitation for a plant is an emergency measure that will save the flower from death. It makes sense to hold such events if the state of the rose is not running. Then the stressful situation will allow him to activate the processes of growth and development. If the disease is running, then resuscitation is useless.

Instructions on what to do at home

If the Chinese rose dries up, then the first thing to do is to normalize its watering. From spring to autumn, the flower needs moisture. Use distilled water for irrigation room temperature.

The next reason for the drying of the plant are mites.. To combat them, you can try the following drugs:


These products are toxic, so be sure to open a window, wear gloves and a respirator before using them.

Processing looks like this:

  1. To begin with, carefully water the flower, and treat the stems and leaves with soapy water.
  2. Now you can proceed to spraying, and use several drugs in turn.
  3. Re-treatment is carried out after 7-10 days.

As for folk remedies, they are effective only at an early stage of infection. Popular recipes:

  • Onion infusion. For 20 g of husk 1 liter of water. Infuse for 5 days, spray the bush with infusion, wipe the leaves and branches.
  • Infusion of garlic. Pour 2 large and chopped heads of garlic, pour 1 liter of water and leave for 5 days. Before use, dilute the infusion with water in equal proportions and spray the bush.

Hibiscus withers

If the plant began to wither, then it can be very difficult to cure it. But you can try if you use the following recommendations:

  1. Remove all dried parts of the plant, lightly affecting its healthy fragments.
  2. Treat the rose with antifungal drugs: Fundazol, Topsin, Dezavid. You can use a folk remedy - a solution of Trichopolum (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).
  3. For additional stimulation of the rose, treat with such preparations: Epin, Zircon, Domotsvet.

IMPORTANT: If at the initial stage it was not possible to cure the hibiscus, and it still fades, then you will have to get rid of it.

Curling of azalea leaves occurs as a result of the activity of the whitefly. To combat it, drugs are used:


When working with drugs, use gloves and ventilate the room well!

leaves fall

  1. Shchitovka. Performed mechanical cleaning leaves with a soap sponge. Next, process 0.155 Actellik solution (1-2 ml per 1 liter of water).
  2. Aphid. To combat it, spraying with Dirris, Fitoverm, Decis, Aktellik is used. If the lesion is severe, then repeat the treatment after 10 days.

turns yellow

To prevent the appearance of yellowness on the leaves or get rid of it, you will need to follow the following recommendations:

  • Watering should be moderate, avoid standing water.
  • No draft.
  • Timely subcortex.
  • No direct sunlight.
  • Leaf processing by special means for prevention.

ADVICE: In case of damage of viral origin, it is pointless to carry out treatment, remove the diseased flower immediately so that the rest of the plants do not become infected.

Does not bloom

If the hibiscus does not bloom in any way, it needs to be stimulated:

  1. To stimulate flowering, it is necessary to cut off old branches in a timely manner.
  2. Replace old soil with new.
  3. Set the plant in a sunny location.
  4. Do not forget to apply fertilizer to stimulate new shoots and buds. But nitrogen-containing compounds to reduce.

Watch the video about the reasons for the lack of flowering of hibiscus and how to fix it:

If the Chinese rose is on the verge of death, then urgent resuscitation is necessary. It includes the following procedure:


At high humidity And good lighting dormant buds will wake up and the root system will begin to develop. Zircon treatment should be carried out every day, as it restores turgor.

Prevention

To prevent the development of a recurrent disease, the following preventive measures must be taken:

  • Temperature indicators should not go beyond the norm - 18-22 degrees Celsius. Drying and waterlogging are unacceptable.
  • Timely pest control. It is they who lead to deformation of the leaves and the development of diseases. For processing, use Peretrum, Aktofit.
  • It is best to use mineral complex fertilizers to regularly apply nutrient compositions.
  • The air in the room should be moderately humid, but not dry.

Care

  1. Temperature. Chinese rose is a heat-loving plant. In spring and summer, temperatures will be 25 degrees Celsius, and in winter - 15-20 degrees. If in winter the temperature is below 10 degrees, then the leaves will fall off. In the summer, put the flower on the balcony, protecting it from rain and wind.
  2. Lighting. Hibiscus is a photophilous culture. For him, diffused light is important. If in summer the flower gets straight Sun rays, then it is fraught with the development of a burn. Grow the plant on east or west windows.
  3. Watering. In spring and summer, the Chinese rose needs abundant watering. Use settled and room temperature water. Avoid over-wetting. In winter, watering is moderate. Before the next irrigation, wait until the soil is completely dry. Be sure to provide good drainage.
  4. Air humidity. In the summer, hibiscus needs high humidity. It is useful for him to carry out frequent spraying. Only water should not fall on the flowers, otherwise they may fall off. In winter, less moisture is required. But carried there is central heating, then spraying is carried out every other day.
  5. top dressing. From spring to autumn, apply complex nutrient formulations intended for flowering houseplants. Do this once every 2 weeks. Starting in August, reduce nitrogen-containing top dressing.
  6. pruning. Prune China rose heavily every spring. This will allow the bush to acquire compact shape with lots of buds. If the plant begins to stretch strongly, then cut it off during the growth period. Thanks to pruning, the flower can take the form of a shrub or tree.

Conclusion

Chinese rose, like other ornamental crops, is affected by certain diseases. The main task of the grower is to detect the problem in time, understand the cause of its development and proceed to effective treatment at home. Only quick and coordinated actions will help save both the flower itself and its decorative appearance.

The very first indoor "flower" that I grew with my own hands - hibiscus chinensis, or, as we called this plant, Chinese rose. I remember very well the day he appeared in our house. I am 15 years old. In the lobby of the polyclinic, a huge and apparently once beautiful bush dies. Constantly looking around, I break off a branch and hide it in my bag.

Over the years, the Chinese rose has experienced many events with me. And just recently I celebrated her 25th birthday.

Hibiscus Chinese, or Chinese rose(Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) is a plant of the Malvaceae family. The birthplace of this incredibly beautifully flowering shrub is Southeast Asia and Polynesia. In nature, it reaches a height of 4 m or more. Thanks to the work of breeders, today there are about 250 varieties of Chinese roses of a wide variety of colors, and 25 years ago we knew only a red-flowered terry form.

For those who decide get yourself a hibiscus, we must remember that this is a sprawling fast-growing shrub that will need a large pot, and, therefore, a fairly spacious place in the house. True, now compact slow-growing varieties have appeared on sale.

Hibiscus is easy to grow from non-lignified green shoots remaining after annual spring pruning. Cuttings with 2-3 leaves are cut from them. Large leaf blades are shortened by half to reduce moisture evaporation. Sometimes, in the process of rooting, the leaves on the cutting fall off, but the cutting itself remains alive. As soon as roots develop on it, new leaves grow from sleeping buds.

root hibiscus possible in the water. When small white growths (callus) appear on the lower end of the cutting, it is planted in a small pot in an earthen mixture, watered abundantly and placed in a greenhouse. It can be replaced by a plastic bag or a transparent plastic bottle, always with ventilation holes. With the advent of young leaves, the plant can be removed from the greenhouse and put in a permanent place.

Rooted cuttings bloom in the year of planting. Already 4-month-old young shoots "throw out" bud after bud from the apical point of growth. It's funny to see how tiny buds appear on a thin stem. They gradually increase, and within a few days a huge double flower blooms, up to 10 cm in diameter!

It lasts exactly a day, and then falls off, giving way to the next one. Continuous flowering occurs until late autumn, and on the southern windows - all year round.

As soon as hibiscus will start to bloom, it should be given more attention. The fact is that buds and flowers are a great delicacy for peach aphids. If you find uninvited guests, then immediately treat the plant with the Fitoverm insecticide or any other drug that kills the pest. If there are too many aphids, it is better to remove the emerging buds until the plant is completely healed.

Hibiscus needs to be shaped. In the spring, in mid-March-April, long shoots are shortened to stimulate branching. If the plant has only one shoot, it is cut off at an arbitrarily chosen height. If a bush has formed, then you need to follow certain pruning rules recommended by experts. Each shoot is cut 1/3 above the leaf facing outward. I did a little experiment. Part of the shoots was cut according to the recommendation, and part contrary to it, that is, above the inner bud. Those branches that were cut according to the rules gave several side shoots. And the “wrong” ones grew only one young shoot from the upper bud.

In the spring, along with pruning hibiscus transplanted or transfer to a fresh substrate; young plants annually, adults, starting 7-10 years old - as needed. In large tub specimens, the top layer of the earth should be changed annually.

Hibiscus are big "gluttons", so I add a little rotted mullein to a fresh substrate.

Earlier, when I was just starting to do indoor floriculture, I collected rotted leaves in the park and mixed it into the earthen mixture during transplantation. feed hibiscus needed every 2 weeks fertilizer for flowering crops.

In the summer it is better to take them out into the open air. Watering with soft rainwater, an abundance of sunlight, fresh air harden the plant before a long and difficult winter. The minimum temperature that Chinese hibiscus can withstand is plus 10-12″C. A further decrease in temperature can lead to hypothermia of the root system and death of the plant.

In the autumn-winter period, the flowering of hibiscus weakens or stops altogether. Half-opened buds fall off, and new ones do not form. There is a period of relative calm. At this time, the plant is fertilized no more than once a month. With the inclusion of central heating batteries, another danger appears - the invasion of the spider mite. This pest should also be disposed of with the help of appropriate preparations. A few years ago my hibiscus got sick. What happened, I still don't know. The leaves began to fly around, the shoots stopped growing, the growth points dried up. Wait for death. I didn’t become a plant, I took it out of the pot, examined the roots. They were knotted and very densely interlaced, I did not find anything else alarming. Slightly "stirring up" the root system, cut it off a little with scissors and shortened the shoots. I planted a bush in another pot, completely changing the substrate. Now all that was left was to wait. For about a year, the hibiscus showed no signs of life. He didn't die, but he didn't grow either. No fertilizers and stimulants helped. Quite desperate, I began to water him with urea diluted in water. Slowly, very slowly, the plant began to come to life. For 8 months I tried to help him, and when my hands dropped, my hibiscus suddenly “woke up”: young leaves began to appear, shoots grew. Every day he became more and more like himself. He met his 25th anniversary, covered with new shiny dense foliage.

Chinese hibiscus is propagated not only by cuttings, but also by seeds.. However, of all the varietal seeds found on sale, I managed to grow only hibiscus ‘Tsar Bell’. All 5 seeds sprouted together after 3 days, and after 4 months the seedlings reached 50-70 cm in height and began to prepare for flowering. A huge (15 cm in diameter!) flower opened on one of them. Surprising vitality was shown by seedlings, for lack of space left in small pots. Sometimes the substrate in them completely dried up, the leaves hung down and it seemed that the plants could not be saved. But as soon as the pots were immersed in the ox, the turgor was completely restored after a few hours. In autumn, due to insufficient lighting, the seedlings began to lose leaves, then the shoots began to die. When about 10 cm remained to the base of the stems, the dying off stopped. In the spring, the plants began to grow. After the earth warmed up, I planted all 5 seedlings in the ground. However, despite the fact that the inscription “Winter-hardy!” was emblazoned on the colorful seed bag, the plants felt uncomfortable in the open field, the growth of the shoots stopped. Until autumn, only 3 seedlings “reached out”, and not one survived the winter.

Thanks to communication with foreign breeders and the arrival of new, hitherto unknown varieties on our flower market, we now know much more about hibiscus than before. There are varieties whose flower size reaches 25 cm in diameter! Now no one will be surprised by the old variety with red double flowers, but it is dear to me, like an old and reliable friend.

On a note:

– VARIETIES CHAMPIONS OF GLADIOLUS

Hibiscus is a popular plant that can give its owner cause for concern. For example, when the tips of the leaves dry on a plant, and it gradually fades. This can happen if your hibiscus variegated is attacked by diseases and pests. In this article we will tell you why hibiscus leaves curl, what to do and how to treat a flower at home.

One of the reasons why the leaves of a houseplant begin to curl is pests. For example, a flower affected by a whitefly (whiteflies are one of the most dangerous pests) has yellow leaves covered with sticky drops all over their surface. In addition to the whitefly, other hibiscus pests threaten the plant: aphids, gall midges and spider mites.

Aphids are another misfortune familiar to people who are fond of floriculture. Aphids are usually attracted to the fleshy shoots of the plant, so they attack it quickly and drink juices from it. One of the characteristic signs of the appearance of this pest is that the plant twists the leaves, and subsequently sticky droplets quickly appear on the leaves.

To combat aphids, the following methods are used: first they should be removed from the leaf and stem with a cotton pad, and then treated with soapy water or special preparations (Aktara, Iskra).

Gallica

Another reason why the leaf plate twists and falls off is the gall midge, which poses a threat to both the leaves and the root system of the plant. Usually, pest eggs can be found in the buds of a plant - it is there that worms hatch from the eggs, gnaw on the buds, and then fall into the soil, closer to the roots of the plant.

Diseases and their causes

In addition to the invasion of insects, your flowers can also be subject to diseases. Hibiscus diseases, if left to chance, can cause the death of the plant. Rotting roots, leaves starting to dry out - all this clear signs that the hibiscus needs help. It's not about various types rot when the plant has rotted or its roots have dried up, but about diseases that affect the condition of the foliage of the flower. So, let's look at the main leaf diseases and their treatment.

Chlorosis

Chlorosis is nothing more than the loss of leaves of their color. The leaves affected by the disease rapidly lose color and become very pale, even slightly yellowish. The disease is most dangerous because the leaves may not only lose their color, but over time they may begin to fall off. Thus, if you do not take any measures, soon your hibiscus may remain completely naked.

sunburn

Another misfortune that poses a significant danger, but in essence is not a disease, is sunburn. Everything is simple here: sunburn occurs as a result of violation of conditions of detention. Hibiscus, like the vast majority of plants, does not tolerate direct sunlight. Therefore, if you forget about it and place him in a place where he will be under their direct influence, be prepared to accept the consequences in the form of a sunburn.

Also, this misfortune can appear if you kept your plant in the shade for a long time, and then abruptly put it in a bright place. In this case, it is not even necessary that direct sunlight falls on it - a simple change of scenery will be enough. In addition, sunburn can occur even if the leaf seems to stick to the glass.

Sunburn looks like a small reddish or yellowish dry spot on the surface of the leaf plate. Measures to save the hibiscus are best taken immediately, because the longer you delay, the more rehabilitation the flower will then need.

Treatment and prevention

In order to fix the problems, you will need to cure the plant, saving it either from the invasion of insects or from diseases. If in the case of insects it will be enough to use any effective insecticide or acaricide (and for those who like to use folk remedies - soap solution), then with diseases you need to act a little differently.

In case of chlorosis, it is necessary to treat hibiscus with iron chelate and add necessary fertilizers(since the disease itself is often due to a lack of nutrients). In addition to improving the conditions of detention, you will not help the plant in any way.

In order to eliminate the effects of a sunburn, you need to remove all damaged hibiscus leaves, as well as optimize the conditions of detention - for example, put in a darker place.

To keep your hibiscus leaves safe and sound, follow these simple guidelines:

In this video, an expert will talk about how to save indoor plants from pests and diseases.